Country Pursuits

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03The Royal Family are steeped in tradition,

0:00:03 > 0:00:05and throughout history the royal tables have

0:00:05 > 0:00:07showcased culinary excellence.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'

0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe

0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.

0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and past...'

0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20'We recreate old family favourites.'

0:00:20 > 0:00:24Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.

0:00:24 > 0:00:26What a mess.

0:00:26 > 0:00:29'We sample royal eating alfresco...'

0:00:29 > 0:00:31- Wow.- That is what you want.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times.'

0:00:34 > 0:00:37Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon,

0:00:37 > 0:00:40oysters and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.

0:00:40 > 0:00:41Unbelievable.

0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.

0:00:46 > 0:00:51Hello. I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:00:51 > 0:00:52This is Audley End,

0:00:52 > 0:00:57magnificent stately home built in the style of a royal palace,

0:00:57 > 0:00:59and a former home of King Charles II.

0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,

0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,

0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.

0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here, with this gem,

0:01:13 > 0:01:15a royal kitchen maid's cookbook,

0:01:15 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the royal archive.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,

0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.

0:01:25 > 0:01:27Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,

0:01:27 > 0:01:30who worked at Buckingham Palace

0:01:30 > 0:01:32in the early 1900s.

0:01:32 > 0:01:34And for the first time in over 100 years,

0:01:34 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.

0:01:43 > 0:01:46This time we cook food that reflects the royal family's love

0:01:46 > 0:01:47of the countryside.

0:01:47 > 0:01:50From their hunting, shooting and fishing pursuits,

0:01:50 > 0:01:53to their enjoyment of rich, rural flavours.

0:01:53 > 0:01:55Right, so...

0:01:55 > 0:01:57'Today in the Royal Recipes kitchen,

0:01:57 > 0:01:59'chef Anna Haugh tries sausage making,

0:01:59 > 0:02:03'using the Queen's favourite meat, pheasant.'

0:02:03 > 0:02:05You might be lucky to get a cocktail sausage.

0:02:05 > 0:02:07It's quite a process, and quite an art, I think.

0:02:07 > 0:02:13Lord Iveagh shows Dr Matt Green the rich history of a shooting estate,

0:02:13 > 0:02:17created by a maharaja and adored by royalty.

0:02:17 > 0:02:19- So George there. - That's right. King George.

0:02:19 > 0:02:21- And the Queen. - Wow.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24And we follow Prince Charles's example

0:02:24 > 0:02:26and go foraging for mushrooms.

0:02:28 > 0:02:29That's worth picking.

0:02:32 > 0:02:34In the kitchen wing of this glorious stately home,

0:02:34 > 0:02:37we start our celebration of the royals' country pursuits

0:02:37 > 0:02:40with a recipe from the early days of the Queen's reign,

0:02:40 > 0:02:43and a firm favourite with the Queen mother.

0:02:43 > 0:02:45Hello and welcome to the grand kitchen.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48With me, Anna Haugh, top chef at a London restaurant...

0:02:48 > 0:02:49WHISPERED: ..where the young royals go.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51Yes, they do from time to time.

0:02:51 > 0:02:56Down the ages, most of our kings and queens have been country lovers,

0:02:56 > 0:02:59and when it comes to eating, they are really fond of game.

0:02:59 > 0:03:00What are you going to do for us today?

0:03:00 > 0:03:02Well, I don't blame them. I love game myself.

0:03:02 > 0:03:05And today I'm actually going to make a royal recipe.

0:03:05 > 0:03:07This is a recipe from the Queen Mother's cook,

0:03:07 > 0:03:09and it's galantine of game.

0:03:09 > 0:03:10- Galantine?- Galantine.

0:03:10 > 0:03:14So galantine usually would be like a kind of sausage-shaped, kind of, um,

0:03:14 > 0:03:16type of terrine.

0:03:16 > 0:03:18- Cylindrical rather than square. - Yes.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21But today I'm going to keep with the traditional terrine mould,

0:03:21 > 0:03:23just because it's easier to kind of shape it.

0:03:23 > 0:03:27So I've lightly cooked off pheasant and partridge breasts here and then

0:03:27 > 0:03:31the legs I've just kind of pulsed in a blender while they were raw.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34And I'm going to mix it with a little bit of sausage meat

0:03:34 > 0:03:36- and then pack it in nice and tightly.- Wow.

0:03:36 > 0:03:39So, first of all, I'm just going to give these a bit of a slice.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42You want to kind of cut them about a centimetre thick.

0:03:42 > 0:03:45- Yeah.- So that we can nicely line it up on top.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47OK, so I'm going to mix the two meats here together.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49- Mm-hm.- It's pretty simple.

0:03:49 > 0:03:52But you just want to make sure that it's completely combined.

0:03:52 > 0:03:54Tell me, why the sausage meat?

0:03:54 > 0:03:57The sausage meat is a good kind of filler

0:03:57 > 0:03:59and the flavour of the pork meat

0:03:59 > 0:04:01is very nice. Then we're going to wrap it in bacon

0:04:01 > 0:04:04as well so, it kind of all gels in very nicely together.

0:04:04 > 0:04:07So just give it a good mix so that it's

0:04:07 > 0:04:09nice and evenly kind of distributed.

0:04:09 > 0:04:13In the olden days, would they have wrapped it in bacon like that?

0:04:13 > 0:04:15They may not have, no, actually.

0:04:15 > 0:04:16They probably would have just

0:04:16 > 0:04:18had this in a cylindrical mould so it looks

0:04:18 > 0:04:20like a large sausage.

0:04:20 > 0:04:24And then they would have sliced it and set it in gelatine, or aspic,

0:04:24 > 0:04:27or possibly set the entire one in aspic as well.

0:04:27 > 0:04:28There's a little bit more in there.

0:04:29 > 0:04:31OK.

0:04:31 > 0:04:32And then...

0:04:32 > 0:04:37Oh, you're sticking in a layer of the breast in at that stage?

0:04:37 > 0:04:38- Yeah.- The royals would have had

0:04:38 > 0:04:40- lots of pheasants to play with, wouldn't they?- Mm-hm.

0:04:40 > 0:04:42They were so fond of hunting and shooting

0:04:42 > 0:04:44- and fishing and everything. - Yeah, yeah.

0:04:44 > 0:04:46You don't really have to be a royal, do you?

0:04:46 > 0:04:50I mean, the pheasants and partridges and things are, in the season,

0:04:50 > 0:04:52are pretty widely available.

0:04:52 > 0:04:54Absolutely, yeah. I would completely agree.

0:04:54 > 0:04:57- It's a kind of "vegetarians, look away now".- Yes!

0:04:59 > 0:05:01So, I'm going to pack this in lovely and tightly.

0:05:01 > 0:05:03Oh, look, you've left a bit of pheasant.

0:05:03 > 0:05:04Yes, just for you.

0:05:04 > 0:05:08- A little snack.- Mm. - Keep those energy levels up.

0:05:08 > 0:05:09- OK.- Mm-hm.

0:05:09 > 0:05:10I'm going to fold this over...

0:05:12 > 0:05:14..like this.

0:05:14 > 0:05:16And then a few more slices

0:05:16 > 0:05:19just to make sure that there's no bits of mince peeping out.

0:05:19 > 0:05:21Are you sure it's going to stay sealed?

0:05:21 > 0:05:24Yes. Yeah, no, it will, it will all kind of cook together.

0:05:26 > 0:05:27I think I should be able to fold them over now.

0:05:27 > 0:05:29Yeah.

0:05:29 > 0:05:31It does look very neat, doesn't it?

0:05:31 > 0:05:33Yeah. And wait till you see it when I turn it out.

0:05:33 > 0:05:35It's super neat.

0:05:35 > 0:05:38So all I'm going to do now is wrap it in some tinfoil...

0:05:40 > 0:05:41..give it a good kind of

0:05:41 > 0:05:43squeeze all around.

0:05:45 > 0:05:49And then I'm just going to cook it in a tray of hot water and this just

0:05:49 > 0:05:51helps with the kind of even cooking...

0:05:51 > 0:05:53- Right.- ..of the terrine.

0:05:53 > 0:05:54So you need to cook this for about

0:05:54 > 0:05:56an hour and a half at about 160 degrees.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58- Mm-hm.- I'm just going to give my hands a quick wash because I've

0:05:58 > 0:06:03been handling raw meat and I'm just about to reveal how our terrine is

0:06:03 > 0:06:05is going to look, our galantine's going to look.

0:06:05 > 0:06:07A-ha. Oh, I love this bit.

0:06:07 > 0:06:09- Yes. - Can I do the reveal?

0:06:09 > 0:06:12- Yes, please. - One, two, three.

0:06:12 > 0:06:14- SHE GASPS - Ho-ho!

0:06:14 > 0:06:17- Isn't it beautiful? - It's lovely, isn't it?

0:06:18 > 0:06:22Turn it round a bit there. Shall I put the plate there?

0:06:22 > 0:06:24Yes.

0:06:24 > 0:06:26Oh!

0:06:26 > 0:06:27Oh, look at that.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29Yeah. Wouldn't that be lovely,

0:06:29 > 0:06:33just sitting around a table with your friends, a cheeky glass of red.

0:06:33 > 0:06:36One or two. Now, how do we eat this?

0:06:36 > 0:06:38- Do we have it on toast? - On toast, maybe,

0:06:38 > 0:06:41with a little bit of fig chutney could be quite nice.

0:06:41 > 0:06:42- Fig chutney?- Yes.- Ooh-hoo!

0:06:42 > 0:06:45Yeah, I think something with a little bit of kind of sweetness,

0:06:45 > 0:06:47acidity and a bit of spice...

0:06:47 > 0:06:49- Yeah.- ..goes so well with game.

0:06:49 > 0:06:51- Have a knife and fork.- Thank you.

0:06:51 > 0:06:52Right.

0:06:53 > 0:06:55It looks fantastic. I'm going to go from this end.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57- Mm.- Mm-mm-mm.

0:06:57 > 0:06:59Oh, yes, it's quite solid.

0:06:59 > 0:07:00- Yeah.- Here we go.

0:07:03 > 0:07:05- Mm.- Mm.

0:07:05 > 0:07:06I'll have a bit of toast with it.

0:07:08 > 0:07:09The chutney goes so well with that.

0:07:09 > 0:07:12It does. You kind of need a bit of the chutney with it.

0:07:12 > 0:07:13Mm.

0:07:13 > 0:07:16But although it is game, it's not overpowering game.

0:07:16 > 0:07:18- No.- I don't think it is the scariest game in the world

0:07:18 > 0:07:21- to make a galantine with. - It certainly isn't.

0:07:21 > 0:07:25Oh! The Queen Mum's cook knew what she was doing.

0:07:27 > 0:07:29A delicious and simple way for

0:07:29 > 0:07:33the royals to enjoy the game shot for their table.

0:07:37 > 0:07:40Shooting parties have always been part of royal life.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42Many a grand shooting estate

0:07:42 > 0:07:46was created specifically to attract their patronage.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50Elveden in Suffolk is one such estate.

0:07:50 > 0:07:54It's current owner is the fourth Earl of Iveagh, Edward Guinness.

0:07:55 > 0:07:57- Good morning.- Good morning.

0:07:57 > 0:08:00He's agreed to share its past with historian Dr Matt Green.

0:08:00 > 0:08:03- This is fantastic.- This is our van.

0:08:03 > 0:08:07This van has been with us since 1934.

0:08:07 > 0:08:08Since 1934?

0:08:08 > 0:08:11It's what the shooting guns have always been driven around in.

0:08:12 > 0:08:15A suitably vintage start to the day.

0:08:17 > 0:08:22The Guinness family have owned the 17,000-acre estate since 1894,

0:08:22 > 0:08:26but Elveden was a firm favourite of the royals even before then.

0:08:27 > 0:08:29It was Queen Victoria's close friend,

0:08:29 > 0:08:32the Punjabi Maharajah Duleep Singh,

0:08:32 > 0:08:34who bought it some 30 years earlier and set

0:08:34 > 0:08:37about building its hunting reputation.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39With Duleep Singh, Elveden became

0:08:39 > 0:08:42one of the finest shoots in the country.

0:08:42 > 0:08:44Apparently, one day, he killed...

0:08:45 > 0:08:49..760 game birds with 1,000 shots.

0:08:49 > 0:08:50With 1,000 shots?

0:08:50 > 0:08:53That's almost a 100% success rate.

0:08:53 > 0:08:57He was considered extremely good, one of the top ten shots of his day.

0:08:57 > 0:08:59Are you that good?

0:08:59 > 0:09:02Forever if it wasn't a challenge it wouldn't be fun.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05- The game birds are safe with me. - OK!

0:09:05 > 0:09:07Elveden was the perfect place for the Maharajah

0:09:07 > 0:09:10to entertain his neighbour, the Prince of Wales,

0:09:10 > 0:09:13who owned the 7,000-acre Sandringham estate

0:09:13 > 0:09:16just across the county border in Norfolk.

0:09:16 > 0:09:18And it was a whole social occasion.

0:09:18 > 0:09:22They had some delicious food and drink,

0:09:22 > 0:09:25and Duleep Singh got so large,

0:09:25 > 0:09:29he needed to be seated while shooting on a wicker chair...

0:09:29 > 0:09:33- Really? Right.- ..which rotated so he could face the game birds from

0:09:33 > 0:09:35whichever direction they came from.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37So, he could swivel round and then have a shot?

0:09:37 > 0:09:39He was a sitting gun.

0:09:40 > 0:09:45Edward VII, George V and George VI all shot here at Elveden.

0:09:45 > 0:09:48No shooting party was complete without lunch.

0:09:50 > 0:09:52- So...- So, where are we? - Over this way.

0:09:52 > 0:09:55- Yes.- This wood here is the Duke of York Wood.

0:09:55 > 0:09:58Shoots would stop off and enjoy their lunch.

0:09:58 > 0:10:02And they would have the most amazing array of food,

0:10:02 > 0:10:05which was all laid out in a marquee.

0:10:05 > 0:10:07Over here? In a marquee?

0:10:07 > 0:10:08- Yes.- Really?

0:10:08 > 0:10:10It's amazing to kind of picture that, isn't it?

0:10:10 > 0:10:12The Prince of Wales himself

0:10:12 > 0:10:14would have been out there after a successful morning,

0:10:14 > 0:10:17and almost by magic this marquee would appear and they'd be in

0:10:17 > 0:10:21there having this lavish banquet, exchanging excitable tales,

0:10:21 > 0:10:24quaffing down fine wines, and then going back out there.

0:10:24 > 0:10:26It must have been amazing.

0:10:26 > 0:10:28If only the trees could talk.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31All the stories and the wonderful tales that were told.

0:10:34 > 0:10:37There's plenty to tell from Lord Iveagh's family archive.

0:10:37 > 0:10:39It includes detailed records

0:10:39 > 0:10:42of those lunches and the illustrious guests.

0:10:43 > 0:10:44- Come in, Matt.- Thank you.

0:10:44 > 0:10:47This is my great-great-grandmother's book.

0:10:47 > 0:10:51It's a photograph album that she took with her

0:10:51 > 0:10:53and many of her guests signed.

0:10:53 > 0:10:56And she put in some beautiful photographs...

0:10:58 > 0:10:59Oh, wow! These are really old.

0:10:59 > 0:11:04So, this is essentially a collection of photographs of the shoots.

0:11:04 > 0:11:05What about this picture here? Talking of lunch,

0:11:05 > 0:11:09are these the kind of pop-up dining halls

0:11:09 > 0:11:11they used to have their meals in

0:11:11 > 0:11:12- in the middle of the shoot? - They were.

0:11:12 > 0:11:15They were dining at the Duke of York Wood.

0:11:15 > 0:11:20- Wow!- So, the trees have grown but the place is the same.

0:11:20 > 0:11:22What are these signatures?

0:11:22 > 0:11:24So, they're all the host guests.

0:11:24 > 0:11:26OK. And George there.

0:11:26 > 0:11:27That's right. King George.

0:11:27 > 0:11:31- That was the king. - And, um, the Queen.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33- Churchill.- Here we go.- Churchill.

0:11:34 > 0:11:37And there's even a picture of Edward VII himself.

0:11:39 > 0:11:40It's amazing to see these.

0:11:40 > 0:11:43A really vivid trip down memory lane.

0:11:43 > 0:11:45- That's right.- Thank you for showing it to us.

0:11:45 > 0:11:46Not at all. My great pleasure.

0:11:51 > 0:11:55Shooting parties are still a part of life today on some royal estates.

0:11:57 > 0:12:01Apparently, Anna, pheasants are the Queen's very favourite game bird.

0:12:01 > 0:12:05It's probably a good job because they shoot an awful lot of them.

0:12:05 > 0:12:06Especially over Christmas.

0:12:06 > 0:12:08Boxing Day is apparently the big shooting day.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12Prince Philip used to, I think his doctors advised him not to,

0:12:12 > 0:12:14used to be shooting these birds.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16And the Queen was involved in picking them up, apparently,

0:12:16 > 0:12:19- or at least collecting them.- Just imagine the two of them there,

0:12:19 > 0:12:22as a couple, out kind of doing such a traditional British hobby.

0:12:22 > 0:12:24And Prince Philip likes cooking, I think.

0:12:24 > 0:12:25Yeah, I heard he did like to cook.

0:12:25 > 0:12:29And also when they would shoot the pheasant, any of the leftovers,

0:12:29 > 0:12:31he would bring to the local butcher

0:12:31 > 0:12:32and they would make pheasant sausages.

0:12:32 > 0:12:34He didn't want to see anything wasted.

0:12:34 > 0:12:36- Exactly.- Are you going to do those pheasant sausages?

0:12:36 > 0:12:39I'm going to make pheasant sausages but I've never made them before.

0:12:39 > 0:12:44So, I'm following this old pheasant recipe for sausages,

0:12:44 > 0:12:46- and I'm going to give it a go. - OK.

0:12:46 > 0:12:48So, fingers crossed that I make edible sausages.

0:12:48 > 0:12:51- So, what have you got?- The first thing I'm going to do is I have some

0:12:51 > 0:12:56sausage meat, some chopped up streaky bacon, and minced pheasant.

0:12:56 > 0:12:59Because pheasant isn't the obvious thing to have in a sausage,

0:12:59 > 0:13:01- is it?- No.- There's very little fat on it.

0:13:01 > 0:13:04Very little fat. But I think there's a good flavour to lend very well.

0:13:04 > 0:13:06If you match it up with the kind of fattiness of your sausage meat

0:13:06 > 0:13:08and your bacon, I think it's going to go really well.

0:13:08 > 0:13:11And then I'm just going to put a little hint of spice

0:13:11 > 0:13:13in there as well to give it a bit more interest.

0:13:13 > 0:13:15So, let's get going.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18- So, I'm going to stick them all in. - It's a smoky bacon?

0:13:18 > 0:13:22Yes. Yeah, just to give it a little extra bit of flavour.

0:13:22 > 0:13:23You're going to mix them all together?

0:13:23 > 0:13:25Mix them all together, actually,

0:13:25 > 0:13:27and I'll just pop the spice in there now.

0:13:27 > 0:13:28What spices are they?

0:13:28 > 0:13:30A pinch of nutmeg.

0:13:30 > 0:13:34- Mm hm.- And then another pinch of allspice.

0:13:34 > 0:13:38And I'm just mixing it in here with the sausage meat, the chopped bacon,

0:13:38 > 0:13:40and then the minced pheasant.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42- Mm hm.- And just give it a good mix.

0:13:42 > 0:13:48And then I'm going to use a kind of sausage attachment on...

0:13:48 > 0:13:49Sausage attachment!

0:13:49 > 0:13:52On a home mixer.

0:13:52 > 0:13:54I'm quite interested to see how this is going to go.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57I'm quite nervous. I'm quite nervous.

0:13:57 > 0:13:58- Shall I hold it?- Yes.

0:13:58 > 0:13:59Make sure it doesn't move.

0:13:59 > 0:14:03So, the recipe says, I need to spoon it in there.

0:14:03 > 0:14:06- Mm hm.- Put a little bit extra on the side.

0:14:06 > 0:14:08Switch this little bad boy on.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11WHIRRING

0:14:11 > 0:14:12And let's...

0:14:12 > 0:14:14get sausage making.

0:14:15 > 0:14:16Ooh!

0:14:16 > 0:14:19And you've got the sausage skins already on the end there.

0:14:19 > 0:14:22Do you want me to do that? Shall I press that down?

0:14:22 > 0:14:23Yeah. If you keep spooning.

0:14:23 > 0:14:24I will.

0:14:26 > 0:14:28I don't know how hungry you are, Michael,

0:14:28 > 0:14:30but you might be looking to get a cocktail sausage.

0:14:30 > 0:14:33It's quite a process, quite an art, I think.

0:14:33 > 0:14:34Yeah.

0:14:35 > 0:14:37Oh, yes.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40Now, that's a proper looking sausage.

0:14:40 > 0:14:42It's not as easy as it looks, this, you know.

0:14:42 > 0:14:44I mean, we could keep going all day with this.

0:14:44 > 0:14:46We could, we could. Shall I put a bit more in?

0:14:46 > 0:14:49- No, definitely not.- That's it?- Let's nip this in the bud. Switch it off.

0:14:49 > 0:14:50Yeah.

0:14:50 > 0:14:52Phew! Ooh!

0:14:53 > 0:14:55- OK.- And a little tie.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00That's quite good. With your help there, Michael, I was able to...

0:15:00 > 0:15:02I think that was the crucial element, actually.

0:15:02 > 0:15:03Yes, absolutely.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06Now... Now I've got to twist them into sausages.

0:15:06 > 0:15:07OK. So, I think we should get three out of here.

0:15:07 > 0:15:10- Yeah.- If I do that like that.

0:15:10 > 0:15:11And then just give them a twist.

0:15:11 > 0:15:12Give them a twist.

0:15:14 > 0:15:15Twist.

0:15:15 > 0:15:18OK. Pheasant sausages. Three pheasant sausages there.

0:15:18 > 0:15:19I'm quite proud of that.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21- They do look good actually, don't they?- Yeah.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24So, the next step is to fry your sausages in a pan.

0:15:24 > 0:15:27Little bit of butter, a little bit of garlic and thyme.

0:15:27 > 0:15:29- Mm hm.- Goes delicious with some mashed potato.

0:15:29 > 0:15:32Mashed potato, of course.

0:15:32 > 0:15:33Of course. Bangers and mash.

0:15:33 > 0:15:35But this is a cider gravy.

0:15:35 > 0:15:38So, you've got chicken stock, very little bit of flour,

0:15:38 > 0:15:39caramelised onion in here.

0:15:39 > 0:15:44And a little secret to this is a spoonful of English mustard.

0:15:44 > 0:15:48- Yeah?- So, you've got the sharpness of the cider and you've also got

0:15:48 > 0:15:52the hint of mustard, just to take off the fattiness of the sausage.

0:15:52 > 0:15:55And then maybe just a little pinch of brown sugar in there as well,

0:15:55 > 0:15:57just to give it a bit of sweetness.

0:15:57 > 0:15:59Just give that a nice little stir.

0:15:59 > 0:16:02They probably needed recipes for leftovers because, you know,

0:16:02 > 0:16:05so many pheasants get shot on these occasions.

0:16:05 > 0:16:09King Edward was so keen on shooting that he had the clocks

0:16:09 > 0:16:11advanced by half an hour at Sandringham,

0:16:11 > 0:16:13so he could spend more of the day shooting.

0:16:13 > 0:16:16What do you think of that? They used to call it Sandringham time.

0:16:16 > 0:16:19- That's brilliant. - Yeah. Oh, I love your mash!

0:16:19 > 0:16:20Creamy. What's the secret with that?

0:16:20 > 0:16:22Being Irish, I think.

0:16:22 > 0:16:24- What, you're good with potatoes. - Yes.

0:16:25 > 0:16:28- Oh, yes, yes. yes.- OK.

0:16:28 > 0:16:31Now that...is what I call a sausage.

0:16:33 > 0:16:36And you put them on top... That's your cheffy bit, isn't it?

0:16:36 > 0:16:37That's my cheffy bit. Yes.

0:16:37 > 0:16:40Well, you know... My pizzazz!

0:16:40 > 0:16:43- OK.- Yep.- Now our lovely gravy.

0:16:47 > 0:16:48It's very traditional.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51Would you serve it with any other vegetables?

0:16:51 > 0:16:53No. No.

0:16:53 > 0:16:56I think just like this is exactly what you want.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59On a cold winter's day.

0:16:59 > 0:17:01Exactly. So there you have it.

0:17:01 > 0:17:04Pheasant sausage, cider gravy and creamy mash.

0:17:04 > 0:17:05Yes, please. Bring it on.

0:17:05 > 0:17:07Knife and fork for you, knife and fork for me.

0:17:07 > 0:17:09Go on. You made 'em.

0:17:09 > 0:17:12Oh, yes. They're chunky, aren't they?

0:17:13 > 0:17:15Here we go.

0:17:16 > 0:17:17Mmm.

0:17:19 > 0:17:21- Mm.- I've never had pheasant sausage before.

0:17:21 > 0:17:23- Mm.- And I certainly will have it again.

0:17:23 > 0:17:25- It's delicious. - Absolutely delicious.

0:17:26 > 0:17:29These posh sausages would be a favourite

0:17:29 > 0:17:32with all ages after an afternoon in the countryside.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34For the Royal Family,

0:17:34 > 0:17:37rural pursuits mean different things to different people.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41Prince Charles is passionate about natural food,

0:17:41 > 0:17:43and he's not averse to foraging for his supper.

0:17:51 > 0:17:54When it comes to mushrooms, John Wright is an expert,

0:17:54 > 0:17:57a self-taught mycologist,

0:17:57 > 0:18:00and like Prince Charles, he's very happy to forage.

0:18:02 > 0:18:06I'm been mushrooming a very long time now, 1965, I think I started.

0:18:06 > 0:18:09I get just as excited now as I did when I first started.

0:18:09 > 0:18:12I can't wait to see what we're going to find today.

0:18:12 > 0:18:15Mushroom foraging can be traced back to the Roman times,

0:18:15 > 0:18:19but it is not until recently that it's become such a popular pastime.

0:18:20 > 0:18:21People absolutely love it,

0:18:21 > 0:18:25and it sort of calms the nerves and slows the heart rate.

0:18:25 > 0:18:27I remember seeing a picture of Prince Charles

0:18:27 > 0:18:29in the paper carrying a mushroom basket

0:18:29 > 0:18:30and I thought, "That's great",

0:18:30 > 0:18:33because he's got people that can go and pick mushrooms for him,

0:18:33 > 0:18:34but he wanted to do it himself

0:18:34 > 0:18:36and that's the whole point of it,

0:18:36 > 0:18:37you've go and actually do it yourself,

0:18:37 > 0:18:39it's engaging with nature, really.

0:18:42 > 0:18:45And with over 15,000 species of mushrooms in the UK,

0:18:45 > 0:18:47there's plenty to choose from.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50And the royal estates lend themselves

0:18:50 > 0:18:52particularly well to foraging.

0:18:52 > 0:18:55I think Prince Charles is quite a lucky mushroom hunter

0:18:55 > 0:18:59because he's got access to this wonderful parkland

0:18:59 > 0:19:01over most of the royal estate,

0:19:01 > 0:19:04so he can just go wandering and he'll find grassland species

0:19:04 > 0:19:07and woodland species, kind of in his own back garden.

0:19:07 > 0:19:08Not everybody can do that.

0:19:08 > 0:19:12Foraging for mushrooms takes great skill and knowledge

0:19:12 > 0:19:15and should only be undertaken by experts such as John,

0:19:15 > 0:19:17who often forages on his friends' land.

0:19:19 > 0:19:22Grasslands like this are a great source of mushrooms,

0:19:22 > 0:19:25as they have often been left uncultivated for hundreds of years,

0:19:25 > 0:19:28creating an undisturbed environment for the fungi.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32This is lovely. One of my favourites.

0:19:32 > 0:19:35It's a really common mushroom.

0:19:35 > 0:19:40And that's quite a nice size, you often get them in quite large rings.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42It's called the Scarlet Wax Cap, it's quite a good one for

0:19:42 > 0:19:45frightening your friends that come round for dinner.

0:19:45 > 0:19:48People really worry about red things and I can understand why.

0:19:48 > 0:19:49But no, there's some edible red things

0:19:49 > 0:19:51and there's some poisonous red things,

0:19:51 > 0:19:53you just have to know what it is.

0:19:57 > 0:19:59These are nice. Look.

0:19:59 > 0:20:00Quite amazing.

0:20:03 > 0:20:05These are puffballs. This is quite tasty,

0:20:05 > 0:20:07and you can see how tasty it is

0:20:07 > 0:20:09because somebody has eaten a bit of it already.

0:20:09 > 0:20:10There's been a slug in there.

0:20:10 > 0:20:11There's a little bit left.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14Try and get away from the slug-nibbled area.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20Bit like a mushroom flavoured marshmallow.

0:20:20 > 0:20:22That is worth picking. In the basket.

0:20:24 > 0:20:25Now, look at this.

0:20:26 > 0:20:27Wow.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30John finds a ring of parasol mushrooms,

0:20:30 > 0:20:34the final ingredients needed for a well-known royal favourite dish.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37Now he just needs to find a spot to cook.

0:20:37 > 0:20:39We have heat. My goodness, I think I'll just

0:20:39 > 0:20:41sit here and warm my hands.

0:20:41 > 0:20:44In honour of the very fine mushrooms I've managed to pick today I'm going

0:20:44 > 0:20:48to use the Duke of Edinburgh's own recipe for wild mushrooms

0:20:48 > 0:20:49which is mushrooms a la creme.

0:20:51 > 0:20:52So let's get that melted.

0:20:52 > 0:20:56What I think I'll do is I'll put some of our wax caps in first,

0:20:56 > 0:20:59they take a little bit longer to cook, they're quite moist.

0:20:59 > 0:21:01Remove the twigs, I don't worry too much about that.

0:21:01 > 0:21:03That's a little scarlet wax cap.

0:21:03 > 0:21:05Just get the stem off.

0:21:05 > 0:21:09And now our magnificent puffball, I'll break him in bits.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11Pop him in. What else have we got?

0:21:11 > 0:21:14Here are my parasols next, these cook very quickly.

0:21:14 > 0:21:16Just going to pull the stem out, you can't do anything with the stem,

0:21:16 > 0:21:18and don't need to clean it, don't need to wash it,

0:21:18 > 0:21:21just break it into little triangles and in it goes.

0:21:21 > 0:21:24Mushrooms really do need salt, there's a very bland flavour,

0:21:24 > 0:21:26they need that little bit of salt.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29I'm going to put in a little bit of pepper.

0:21:30 > 0:21:33These mushrooms are cooked. I'm going to put this in.

0:21:33 > 0:21:34And I think that's enough.

0:21:34 > 0:21:37I do like the cream thick but not too thick,

0:21:37 > 0:21:39you don't want it to be like a sticky custard or something,

0:21:39 > 0:21:41you just need it a little bit runny.

0:21:41 > 0:21:43That's it, done. Just try it now.

0:21:43 > 0:21:46Let's have a go. It should be perfect.

0:21:46 > 0:21:49And the cream will have taken on the flavour of the mushrooms.

0:21:51 > 0:21:52My God, that's amazing.

0:21:52 > 0:21:55That is really, really brilliant.

0:21:55 > 0:21:56I'll have some of the mushrooms.

0:21:56 > 0:21:58I'm going to go with the puffball.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03It's sort of ice cream, it really is.

0:22:03 > 0:22:06It's just wonderful, but it's so much better out of doors.

0:22:06 > 0:22:09It really is the perfect end to a foraging day -

0:22:09 > 0:22:11pick something in the wild, we eat it.

0:22:16 > 0:22:19When our kitchen maid, Mildred Nicholls,

0:22:19 > 0:22:21who's left us this fantastic recipe book,

0:22:21 > 0:22:23was working in the Buckingham Palace kitchens,

0:22:23 > 0:22:27Edward VII was on the throne, then his son, George V.

0:22:27 > 0:22:30Both dedicated countrymen, out and about all the time,

0:22:30 > 0:22:33shooting, fishing, in Edward's case, philandering!

0:22:33 > 0:22:38So what have you managed to find in Mildred's cookbook that is

0:22:38 > 0:22:41a nice snack to take out on your country pursuits?

0:22:41 > 0:22:43Something to put in the hamper, something to have in your hand,

0:22:43 > 0:22:46- a nice sweet snack?- OK, well, this recipe is very interesting.

0:22:46 > 0:22:49It's called chapeaux communs, and it's like...

0:22:49 > 0:22:51- Chapeaux communs? - Yeah.

0:22:51 > 0:22:53I've never seen anything like it before,

0:22:53 > 0:22:55so I'm quite excited to see how it's going to turn out.

0:22:55 > 0:22:59It's a kind of pastry that is wrapped around marzipan,

0:22:59 > 0:23:01and then we're going to dip it in chocolate -

0:23:01 > 0:23:04that originally wasn't in the recipe but I think it will be a nice

0:23:04 > 0:23:06kind of twist on it - but I think what makes this recipe

0:23:06 > 0:23:10so interesting is that the pastry is like a mixture between

0:23:10 > 0:23:13kind of like a pastry and a bit of a cake, because you've got a bit

0:23:13 > 0:23:15of baking powder in here, and a bit of cream...

0:23:15 > 0:23:17- That's unusual. - ..butter, flour...

0:23:17 > 0:23:18Yeah, it is, it's quite interesting.

0:23:18 > 0:23:21So you just mix all those ingredients together and you roll it

0:23:21 > 0:23:24out to about half a centimetre thick.

0:23:24 > 0:23:26- And that's what we have here. - "Chapeau" is French for hat,

0:23:26 > 0:23:27- isn't it?- That's right, yes.

0:23:27 > 0:23:29And you shape it into a particular kind of hat,

0:23:29 > 0:23:31- but we'll talk about that in a minute.- Exactly. Exactly.

0:23:31 > 0:23:32So, what do you do?

0:23:32 > 0:23:35I'm just going to cut the rounds out now, and then I'm going to

0:23:35 > 0:23:38- make the marzipan. - I love marzipan.

0:23:38 > 0:23:41Yeah, yeah. And I think the royals were fans of marzipan.

0:23:41 > 0:23:42Oh, down the ages.

0:23:42 > 0:23:45I think it would have been seen as a real treat because there was

0:23:45 > 0:23:46a lot that you could do with marzipan -

0:23:46 > 0:23:48you could colour it and shape it,

0:23:48 > 0:23:50and I think back in the Tudors' time,

0:23:50 > 0:23:52they used to like it shaped as little animals.

0:23:52 > 0:23:55And they'd have them on the banqueting table.

0:23:55 > 0:23:57- Yeah.- And things like that. - Biting their heads off.

0:23:57 > 0:24:00Mind you, it must have been only for the very, very rich in those days.

0:24:00 > 0:24:01Oh, yeah. Definitely.

0:24:01 > 0:24:05So this is your almond flour, and it's the base of the marzipan.

0:24:05 > 0:24:07It is just ground down almonds.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09And I'm going to add the sugar.

0:24:09 > 0:24:11And then we're going to add our butter to it.

0:24:11 > 0:24:15And then the same way you would make like apple crumble,

0:24:15 > 0:24:19you'd just kind of try to lift the butter, mix the butter,

0:24:19 > 0:24:22through your almond flour as quickly as possible,

0:24:22 > 0:24:26and this way you get kind of like an even covering of butter

0:24:26 > 0:24:28on your almond so then, when you add your egg,

0:24:28 > 0:24:31it just kind of all mixes together like a good dough.

0:24:31 > 0:24:33The Queen loves marzipan, apparently,

0:24:33 > 0:24:34and other people know that.

0:24:34 > 0:24:37I think that when she went to Germany once,

0:24:37 > 0:24:40they actually gave her a big marzipan

0:24:40 > 0:24:42rendering of the Brandenburg gate.

0:24:42 > 0:24:44- Can you imagine?- Brilliant! You can just imagine her

0:24:44 > 0:24:47- sinking her teeth into that. - Yes!

0:24:47 > 0:24:52- What next?- So, all you need to do is crack one egg into the centre.

0:24:53 > 0:24:57Keep a sharp eye out for any egg shell, looking good to go.

0:24:57 > 0:24:59Just give it a mix.

0:24:59 > 0:25:02OK, so it looks like it's almost together now,

0:25:02 > 0:25:07so I'm going to get my hand back in there, a bit more pressure on it.

0:25:07 > 0:25:09OK, so when you're rolling marzipan,

0:25:09 > 0:25:13you don't use flour because this is a flourless recipe,

0:25:13 > 0:25:16we're going to use icing sugar to help you roll it out,

0:25:16 > 0:25:20so we're going to roll this into small little balls,

0:25:20 > 0:25:23just going to take a little bit of icing sugar, there.

0:25:23 > 0:25:26It's the fact that it's in tiny little pieces,

0:25:26 > 0:25:28tiny little hats, that make it so suitable, don't they,

0:25:28 > 0:25:31for putting in a hamper, almost putting it in your pocket if you're

0:25:31 > 0:25:34- going out shooting or something? - Exactly. Exactly.- Oh, now, now, and

0:25:34 > 0:25:37this is the tricky bit. Yes, yes, you roll the ball.

0:25:37 > 0:25:40- Yeah. - Very neat. Very round.

0:25:40 > 0:25:43So, now I'm going to start shaping the little hats.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46We're looking for a three-point hat.

0:25:46 > 0:25:50Oh, it would be called in those days a tricorn hat, or something.

0:25:50 > 0:25:53- A tricorn hat.- Don't know why they went out of fashion.

0:25:53 > 0:25:54They look rather elegant, I think.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56Oh, they look rather sweet, don't they?

0:25:56 > 0:25:58Don't they look quite pretty, yeah? They do look quite pretty.

0:26:02 > 0:26:04So, I'm just going to pop these on the tray, now,

0:26:04 > 0:26:07and I'm going to eggwash them.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10It gives them a nice kind of glaze and shine,

0:26:10 > 0:26:13and then I'm going to bake them in the oven for about

0:26:13 > 0:26:1710 to 12 minutes, at 180 degrees, and then when they come out,

0:26:17 > 0:26:20just to give it an extra kick, a little bit more sweetness,

0:26:20 > 0:26:22I'm going to glaze them with a sugar syrup,

0:26:22 > 0:26:25which is just water and sugar boiled together.

0:26:25 > 0:26:28It's going to be a really kind of sweet little mouthful, isn't it?

0:26:28 > 0:26:31Yeah. A nice, crunchy, soft kind of biscuit.

0:26:31 > 0:26:33So I've actually baked some earlier on,

0:26:33 > 0:26:35which I'm going to bring over now.

0:26:35 > 0:26:38- Look at these. - They do look lovely, don't they?

0:26:38 > 0:26:40But they've lost some of the hat shape.

0:26:40 > 0:26:43Yeah, well, it's a different hat shape.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46- But, yeah, I can kind of see... - A kind of squashed hat!- Yeah.

0:26:46 > 0:26:50So these ones I did glaze with sugar syrup on top, and you can see

0:26:50 > 0:26:52how shiny and delicious they look,

0:26:52 > 0:26:55I'm going to now dip them in the chocolate.

0:26:55 > 0:26:57Now, Mildred wouldn't have done this.

0:26:57 > 0:26:59- No, she wouldn't have done this. - This is your twist.

0:26:59 > 0:27:00This is my twist.

0:27:00 > 0:27:02This does look good.

0:27:02 > 0:27:04When you put that chocolate on there, isn't that going to leave the grid?

0:27:04 > 0:27:06You put it on the grid there, will that leave a grid pattern?

0:27:06 > 0:27:09You can't see it, and what it does is that if there is a little bit of

0:27:09 > 0:27:11excess chocolate, if I have been a bit sloppy in my dipping...

0:27:11 > 0:27:14- Oh, surely not!- ..it means that it will drip off.

0:27:14 > 0:27:16It does look good, doesn't it?

0:27:16 > 0:27:18So it's really important that when you melt your chocolate,

0:27:18 > 0:27:21you do it over a bain marie cos chocolate's quite sensitive.

0:27:21 > 0:27:23You use those bain maries quite often, don't you?

0:27:23 > 0:27:27I do, honestly, I don't know what I'd do without a bain marie.

0:27:27 > 0:27:31I think these are the two prettiest ones, or them, so go for the...

0:27:31 > 0:27:32Go for the Quasimodos.

0:27:32 > 0:27:35We should wait, shouldn't we, for the chocolate to set?

0:27:35 > 0:27:37But I don't think I can.

0:27:38 > 0:27:41- OK. - Can I try it?- Go on.

0:27:41 > 0:27:44I really hope you like this! Oh, my goodness, that looks delicious!

0:27:44 > 0:27:45Can I do it in one? No!

0:27:48 > 0:27:49Mmm!

0:27:49 > 0:27:51Now, I'm not a marzipan fan,

0:27:51 > 0:27:53so I don't know how I'm going to feel about this, but I do think

0:27:53 > 0:27:56the chocolate is going to help.

0:27:56 > 0:27:58It's a chunky little mouthful of sweetness, isn't it?

0:28:00 > 0:28:02I think Mildred's onto a winner, here.

0:28:02 > 0:28:03I think...

0:28:03 > 0:28:05hats off to Mildred!

0:28:07 > 0:28:11That's it for our programme on food for royal country pursuits.

0:28:11 > 0:28:13See you next time.

0:28:13 > 0:28:15Mmm!