0:00:02 > 0:00:04'The royal family are steeped in tradition and throughout history
0:00:04 > 0:00:07'the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'
0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe
0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in our own hand.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and the past...'
0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20'..we recreate old family favourites.'
0:00:20 > 0:00:24Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
0:00:24 > 0:00:25What a mess.
0:00:25 > 0:00:28'We sample royal eating alfresco...'
0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow!- That is what you want.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times...'
0:00:34 > 0:00:37Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters
0:00:37 > 0:00:41- and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.- Unbelievable.
0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.
0:00:46 > 0:00:50Hello. I'm Michael Buerk and welcome to Royal Recipes.
0:00:50 > 0:00:52This is Audley End,
0:00:52 > 0:00:55a magnificent stately home built in the style of a royal palace
0:00:55 > 0:00:59and a former home of King Charles II.
0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,
0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,
0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here with this gem -
0:01:13 > 0:01:15a royal kitchen maid's cookbook.
0:01:15 > 0:01:20The only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal Archive.
0:01:20 > 0:01:21This is an exact copy of
0:01:21 > 0:01:24the original which is kept at Windsor Castle.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls
0:01:27 > 0:01:31who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34And for the first time in over 100 years
0:01:34 > 0:01:37we will be bringing these recipes back to life.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47This time we're off to the races with the royal family.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50The passion for racing dates back generations
0:01:50 > 0:01:52and racing days at Epsom and Ascot are amongst
0:01:52 > 0:01:54the Queen's favourite events,
0:01:54 > 0:01:56and a time to entertain friends and family.
0:01:58 > 0:02:00Today in the royal kitchens,
0:02:00 > 0:02:03chef Anna Haugh prepares Mutton Pies a la Windsor,
0:02:03 > 0:02:07from a 1930s Royal Ascot lunch.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10Even if you don't have any winners on the racecourse,
0:02:10 > 0:02:12you've got a winner on the plate.
0:02:12 > 0:02:15Historian Dr Annie Gray reveals how Edward VII
0:02:15 > 0:02:20liked to combine two of his great passions - racing and eating.
0:02:20 > 0:02:24There was a whole rash of dishes named for racing.
0:02:24 > 0:02:25A la Jockey Club.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27A la Race Winner.
0:02:27 > 0:02:30And former royal chef Darren McGrady
0:02:30 > 0:02:32gets cooking for the royals at Epsom.
0:02:32 > 0:02:34Looks gorgeous on the plate.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37Perfect for the royal table and a day at the races.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43In the historic kitchen of this grand stately home,
0:02:43 > 0:02:47we're returned to the reign of the Queen's father, King George VI,
0:02:47 > 0:02:51and a dish from his first Royal Ascot.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53Hello. And here we are in the grand kitchen
0:02:53 > 0:02:56with top London chef Anna Haugh.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00The royals seem always to have loved racing. In fact, King Charles II
0:03:00 > 0:03:02actually bought this wonderful house
0:03:02 > 0:03:05because it's close to Newmarket races,
0:03:05 > 0:03:07and he wanted the most impressive house close to
0:03:07 > 0:03:09the racecourse for entertaining.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13What do you think of racing? You're Irish, after all.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16I am Irish. I'm very fond of racing. Of course I am.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- Perhaps not as much as the royals, though.- Perhaps not.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22- So what are you cooking? - I'm going to make mutton pie.
0:03:22 > 0:03:23That sounds a bit ordinary.
0:03:23 > 0:03:25No, this is no ordinary mutton pie.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28This is Mutton Pie a la Windsor.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- That's got a ring to it, hasn't it? - Yes.
0:03:30 > 0:03:36And this one I think was actually served at Royal Ascot in 1937,
0:03:36 > 0:03:39which is the first Royal Ascot that King George VI, the Queen's father,
0:03:39 > 0:03:41went to as king.
0:03:41 > 0:03:43So it sounds posh.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- Really posh.- The royals, when they went to the races,
0:03:46 > 0:03:48probably still do when they go to the races,
0:03:48 > 0:03:52they don't just have a snack, packet of crisps, and, you know, something like that.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54- No.- They have the works.
0:03:54 > 0:03:56And you'll see as I make this pie
0:03:56 > 0:03:58that there is the works going on here.
0:03:58 > 0:04:00- So it sounds posh. - OK. Let's get cracking.
0:04:00 > 0:04:05So here I have some onions, slowly cooking in some butter.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07And I'm going to add the chopped up mutton.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10Now this is a perfect dish for leftovers.
0:04:10 > 0:04:12So in goes the chopped mutton
0:04:12 > 0:04:16and I'm going to add to that my lamb stock.
0:04:16 > 0:04:19Now you need to reduce this down,
0:04:19 > 0:04:23so you need to cook it for quite a while, maybe about an hour or so
0:04:23 > 0:04:27until it looks like this...
0:04:27 > 0:04:30Oh, gosh! That really does look rich.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33I know. You just want to eat that with a spoon right now.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- Yeah, absolutely. - But you can't, Michael, you can't.
0:04:35 > 0:04:37Don't be too sure.
0:04:37 > 0:04:39This is our filling ready to go.
0:04:39 > 0:04:43- Yep.- And here I have blind baked four tartlet shells.
0:04:43 > 0:04:45So I've placed a sheet of grease-proof paper
0:04:45 > 0:04:47on top of the pastry
0:04:47 > 0:04:49and then, inside that, I've added raw rice.
0:04:49 > 0:04:52This just holds down the grease-proof paper...
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- Stopping it rising. - Exactly. And you can re-use it.
0:04:55 > 0:04:57- That's sneaky, isn't it? - Yeah, it's quite clever.- Yeah.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00So I'm going to fill these moulds now.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02This mix looks perfect.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05I think this dish is originally a Victorian dish, isn't it?
0:05:05 > 0:05:09One of Queen Victoria's royal chefs, Francatelli, his name was...
0:05:09 > 0:05:11- That's right.- ..came up with it.
0:05:11 > 0:05:15They're individual pies, so it's, you know, one pie per person.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17And well filled, aren't they? And deeply filled.
0:05:17 > 0:05:22That's it. OK, so once they're filled you just want to seal them.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25So I'm going to make a kind of lamb jelly.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27That's two sheets of gelatine
0:05:27 > 0:05:30in with about 200ml of your lamb stock.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33And once that's just dissolved in, which you can see...
0:05:33 > 0:05:35- Oh, just goes like that. - Just like that.
0:05:35 > 0:05:37When you say seal it, what do you mean by that?
0:05:37 > 0:05:41It means that this gelatine will set on top of that delicious,
0:05:41 > 0:05:46succulent mixture and it will set on top of it and hold it in together
0:05:46 > 0:05:48because these pies are actually served cold.
0:05:48 > 0:05:49And now, for our final stage,
0:05:49 > 0:05:52we've puff pastry to go on top of this one.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54- This is a la Windsor.- A la Windsor.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57So you need three cutters for this.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59I've already cut out four of the large ones,
0:05:59 > 0:06:03so now I'm going to cut out four of the medium-sized cutter.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06And straightaway after that
0:06:06 > 0:06:09I'm going to cut out the centre of these
0:06:09 > 0:06:11because right in the centre
0:06:11 > 0:06:16is where we're going to pour our little jellied jewels.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18Gosh! This is a lot of trouble, isn't it?
0:06:18 > 0:06:20I know. All for the royals, all for the royals.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22Now, so, little bit of egg wash.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- What's that for?- This kind of holds all of them together,
0:06:25 > 0:06:28but also it gives it a lovely shine, so it's dual-purpose.
0:06:28 > 0:06:31- Yep. Now you've put that one... Ah, right.- On top.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33- Yep.- On top.
0:06:33 > 0:06:35Try to get it as centred as...
0:06:35 > 0:06:38- This is elaborate, isn't it? - It is. And what's so lovely is that
0:06:38 > 0:06:41when it sits on top and we fill
0:06:41 > 0:06:44the centre of this with the jellied jewel,
0:06:44 > 0:06:47that's what I think really makes it quite unique.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49OK. Just another little bit of egg wash.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- Yep.- So you bake this in the oven, 160 degrees,
0:06:52 > 0:06:5525 minutes or so until its golden brown.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58And essentially they should look like these...
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- Oh, wow!- Aren't they pretty? - Yes, they certainly are.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03And they're going to get much prettier now in a minute.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06So you place them on top of your pie.
0:07:06 > 0:07:08Yep, put the lid on.
0:07:08 > 0:07:13And then, in a pan, I have a little bit of beef jelly.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15What is beef jelly?
0:07:15 > 0:07:19You cook down your beef stock, your beef bones and your vegetables,
0:07:19 > 0:07:22and then, just at the end, we add one or two leaves of gelatine
0:07:22 > 0:07:24so that it would set up.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26So just pour that on top.
0:07:26 > 0:07:27Yep.
0:07:29 > 0:07:31It's so lovely. I get a lot of pleasure out of this.
0:07:31 > 0:07:34- You like this bit, don't you? - Yes, I do. I really, really do.
0:07:34 > 0:07:36It's a mutton pie. You and your jewels.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39You need to set these in the fridge, probably for about an hour.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42And when you take them out of the fridge they should look like this...
0:07:42 > 0:07:44I say.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46HE CHUCKLES
0:07:46 > 0:07:49- Sweet, huh? - With the shiny jewels on the top.
0:07:49 > 0:07:51METAL RATTLES That rattle is the cutlery.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54I think these are so special and I'm hoping, fingers crossed,
0:07:54 > 0:07:58- at the centre... - I thought it was going to shatter.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01- I love that sound.- Ooh, yeah.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03Now, nearly there.
0:08:03 > 0:08:06- Look. Look at that. Look at that. - Oh-oh-oh-oh!
0:08:06 > 0:08:08I didn't think it had set so beautifully.
0:08:08 > 0:08:13- Right, after you.- OK.
0:08:13 > 0:08:14Gosh, there's a lot of meat in here, isn't there?
0:08:14 > 0:08:16Can I have...?
0:08:18 > 0:08:21Oh! Oh, yes, the consistency's great.
0:08:21 > 0:08:23I love the puff pastry on the top.
0:08:23 > 0:08:25- So different, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:08:28 > 0:08:30Oh! That's really good.
0:08:30 > 0:08:34Well, I mean, even if you don't have any winners on the racecourse,
0:08:34 > 0:08:36you've got a winner on the plate.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43Mini mutton pies, just one of 11 courses served at
0:08:43 > 0:08:46King George VI's first Ascot meeting.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50Racing is of course the sport of kings,
0:08:50 > 0:08:53and that tradition goes back centuries.
0:08:53 > 0:08:55One English town lies at the heart of it all.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06Newmarket in Suffolk is the home of British horse racing
0:09:06 > 0:09:09and the Jockey Club has long-standing links
0:09:09 > 0:09:10with the royal family.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14One of its most colourful and enthusiastic royal visitors
0:09:14 > 0:09:17was Edward VII, also known as Bertie.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20Food historian Dr Annie Grey discovers what went on
0:09:20 > 0:09:22when Bertie was in town.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25Edward VII was a man known for grand passions -
0:09:25 > 0:09:28women, food and horse racing.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32Once a year he would hold an enormous Derby day banquet
0:09:32 > 0:09:36to celebrate and bring together two of those loves, at least.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40And it was held for members of an exclusive racing club -
0:09:40 > 0:09:42the Jockey Club.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46I've come here to Newmarket, the spiritual home of racing,
0:09:46 > 0:09:50to find out more about how Edward VII combined his love of food
0:09:50 > 0:09:52with his love of the turf.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56The Jockey Club is where owners and breeders have been meeting for over
0:09:56 > 0:10:00250 years and where the official governing body for horse racing in
0:10:00 > 0:10:03Britain was set up.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06Annie is meeting horse-racing historian Chris Garibaldi.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- So, Chris, tell me about this room. - Well, this is the coffee room,
0:10:10 > 0:10:12and so, in a sense, this is the sort of centre of the club where it
0:10:12 > 0:10:16originally started on this site in the 1750s.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18The one thing you've got to remember is the Jockey Club is not a club for
0:10:18 > 0:10:22jockeys. The word jockey was associated with people who ran
0:10:22 > 0:10:24horses, the aristocratic owners.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27And, of course, the aristocratic owners actually rode themselves,
0:10:27 > 0:10:29certainly in the 16th and 17th centuries.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- It's quite a room, isn't it? - It is, and what's lovely,
0:10:34 > 0:10:37you've got the survival of the booths which gives a real impression
0:10:37 > 0:10:38of what it would have been like.
0:10:38 > 0:10:41It's sort of people coming to exchange gossip,
0:10:41 > 0:10:42to settle their wagers,
0:10:42 > 0:10:45really an assembly space before people moved up to the racecourse.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48Although the royal family hasn't stayed at the Jockey Club since
0:10:48 > 0:10:51the days of George V, they're certainly very present here.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53- These are fantastic. - There are royal portraits,
0:10:53 > 0:10:57paintings and artefacts along every corridor.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00What about the connection between Edward VII and the Jockey Club?
0:11:00 > 0:11:05From about 1861 he trains his own racehorses in Newmarket.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07And with the Prince of Wales,
0:11:07 > 0:11:09a whole sort of new set come in to Newmarket.
0:11:10 > 0:11:12And he stayed here, didn't he?
0:11:12 > 0:11:15He had a set of apartments built, and a staircase built for him?
0:11:15 > 0:11:17Yes, there was a separate entrance.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20The main entrance for club members is from Newmarket High Street
0:11:20 > 0:11:23but the king's entrance was from the other side of the site from
0:11:23 > 0:11:27the avenue, to allow him to come and go pretty well as he pleased.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31It was around this time that Edward VII brought back
0:11:31 > 0:11:33the tradition of spectacular banquets
0:11:33 > 0:11:35thrown the day after the Derby,
0:11:35 > 0:11:37known as the Derby dinners.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42The Derby dinner gave him an excuse to entertain on this kind of
0:11:42 > 0:11:48palatial scale. His taste was for very elaborate 18-course...
0:11:48 > 0:11:50dinners. Incredibly rich sauces.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52Everything supplemented with truffles
0:11:52 > 0:11:54and foie gras and
0:11:54 > 0:11:59very much that sort of high-end Escoffier-inspired French cuisine.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02And those things would have been reported in the newspapers?
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- Absolutely.- So I'm assuming that this is really something that is
0:12:04 > 0:12:07putting Bertie, Prince of Wales, on the map.
0:12:08 > 0:12:13Bertie's rejuvenated Derby day dinners really did catch the spirit
0:12:13 > 0:12:18of the age. There was a whole rash of dishes named for racing -
0:12:18 > 0:12:21a la Jockey Club, a la race winner -
0:12:21 > 0:12:24and you find in 19th-century cookbooks, time and time again,
0:12:24 > 0:12:26illustrations of culinary kitsch,
0:12:26 > 0:12:31something unidentifiable covered with lurid green colouring with
0:12:31 > 0:12:33little jockey caps all the way round.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37And there was a real vogue for tiny little copper horseshoe moulds.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41What was in them might well be veal mousse or something in aspic.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44It didn't really matter. In your own aspirational way,
0:12:44 > 0:12:49you were embracing Bertie the Prince of Wales, and his own lavish
0:12:49 > 0:12:51dinners but, there, on your own dining table.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58As well as the Derby dinners,
0:12:58 > 0:13:03Edward VII would enjoy some equally rich indulgent and long lunches
0:13:03 > 0:13:04at Ascot.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10Edward VII wasn't only famous for his Jockey Club dinners but for his
0:13:10 > 0:13:13absolutely prodigious lunches
0:13:13 > 0:13:17at Ascot races. 14 courses - for lunch!
0:13:17 > 0:13:1814 courses!
0:13:18 > 0:13:21That lunch must have raced into dinner.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23When did they actually get to see the races?
0:13:23 > 0:13:25I can imagine they didn't have any time for the races.
0:13:25 > 0:13:29That was probably Edward's favourite day, lunch running into dinner.
0:13:29 > 0:13:31Now, you're going to do a dish
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- from Edward's luncheon party at Ascot races in 1908.- Yup.
0:13:35 > 0:13:38From the famous royal chef, Gabriel Tschumi.
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- That's right.- What is it?- Well,
0:13:40 > 0:13:43this is one of the 14 courses that he would have served,
0:13:43 > 0:13:45and it's crab mousse with sauce remoulade.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- Love crab.- So, I'm going to make the crab mousse first.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52And for the crab mousse, I need to dissolve some gelatine in some fish stock. So, I'm just going to...
0:13:52 > 0:13:57You always dissolve your gelatine in a little bit of cold water.
0:13:57 > 0:13:59All you want to do is just dissolve that, you do not want to boil it.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02If you boil it, you kill the gelatine.
0:14:02 > 0:14:03- It stops working.- Right.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07So, it doesn't take much heat, and then it's already just dissolved.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09- It's disappeared already. - That's it, it's disappeared.
0:14:09 > 0:14:14Now, you need that to be fully chilled down before you would actually use
0:14:14 > 0:14:16it in your mousse.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18So, the first thing that I'm going to add in
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- is going to be the mayonnaise. - Mm-hmm.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24So, in with the brown and white crab
0:14:24 > 0:14:25I'm going to put a bit of paprika
0:14:25 > 0:14:28and also now we're going to put in our chilled fish stock,
0:14:28 > 0:14:31which has the gelatine. You can see it starting to set there.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34Yes, it's thickening at this stage, isn't it?
0:14:34 > 0:14:38Is this a kind of modern dish or is it a dish very much of its time?
0:14:38 > 0:14:41There's lots of dishes that I would do now that were inspired by
0:14:41 > 0:14:42recipes like this.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45I think we like a slightly lighter type of cuisine.
0:14:45 > 0:14:47- But you've mixed it all together. - I've mixed all that together
0:14:47 > 0:14:51and then the last thing I'm going to do is actually fold through my cream.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54- So, we're just going to add that in. - Oh, goodness.
0:14:54 > 0:14:56So, we're just going to fold this in.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58At this particular luncheon, there were 80 guests.
0:14:58 > 0:15:00They must have been cooking all night!
0:15:00 > 0:15:04Incredible. For 80 guests, 14 courses.
0:15:04 > 0:15:08And everything was cooked in the royal kitchens, put into hampers,
0:15:08 > 0:15:10taken to the racecourse. Now, what are you doing here?
0:15:10 > 0:15:15So, I'm just going to fill these up to about maybe two-thirds full.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18- So, I'm just going to smooth these down.- Mm-hmm.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21And then I'm going to need you to pop them into the fridge for me.
0:15:21 > 0:15:24They need to be refrigerated for an hour.
0:15:24 > 0:15:25- Right, to set?- To set.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28But when you go there, you'll find that I've already got some
0:15:28 > 0:15:30- in there waiting for you. - Oh, there's a relief.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32Thank you, chef.
0:15:41 > 0:15:43- There you go, Anna. - Thanks for that, Michael.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- Just pop it down there, thanks. - Lovely and cold.
0:15:46 > 0:15:48Now I'm going to make a sauce remoulade.
0:15:48 > 0:15:53- What's remoulade?- So, remoulade is, essentially, fancy mayonnaise.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56Is it a bit odd, mayonnaise, with this?
0:15:56 > 0:15:57It's a bit old-school.
0:15:57 > 0:16:00- So, you've got your mayonnaise here. - Yeah.
0:16:02 > 0:16:05And I only need a small kind of...
0:16:05 > 0:16:07about a teaspoon amount of mustard.
0:16:07 > 0:16:08Just to give it a bit of bite?
0:16:08 > 0:16:12Yeah, a bit of bite and lovely acidity as well that you get out of
0:16:12 > 0:16:16Dijon mustard. Then I'm going to add the herbs, so,
0:16:16 > 0:16:18your chives and your tarragon.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- I love tarragon. - Perfectly chopped by myself.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23Actually, you did do it incredibly finely.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26And a bit of lemon zest on top,
0:16:26 > 0:16:28and it just brings it all to life.
0:16:28 > 0:16:29- Yeah.- Give it a nice stir.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33And you're just going to add a spoon of that into your dish.
0:16:33 > 0:16:34And you're going to serve it on the side.
0:16:34 > 0:16:36Or I'M going to serve it on the side.
0:16:36 > 0:16:39I'm now just going to put the last stage of
0:16:39 > 0:16:41the jelly on top of the crab.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43- Right. Top it off.- Top it off.
0:16:44 > 0:16:48So, these are lovely and chilled.
0:16:48 > 0:16:50And I'll just pour this on.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54- Yeah.- So, this is the fish stock with the gelatine that we used
0:16:54 > 0:16:56earlier that also went inside the crab mousse.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59And that's going to set pretty quickly, I would think.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02But it turns out that, although this will set quickly,
0:17:02 > 0:17:03I've already made one finished.
0:17:03 > 0:17:05How useful!
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- Oh, it does look neat, doesn't it? - So, here we are.
0:17:08 > 0:17:11So, we're just going to add our sauce remoulade here,
0:17:11 > 0:17:12and then our melba toasts.
0:17:12 > 0:17:15Is this the time we taste?
0:17:15 > 0:17:16This is the time that we taste.
0:17:16 > 0:17:19I love crab. There you go.
0:17:19 > 0:17:21- OK, thank you.- Righto, you first.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25OK. I think I'll go for a bit of the crab and the Melba toast first.
0:17:25 > 0:17:29I can hear the thundering of the racehorse hoofs but I'm more
0:17:29 > 0:17:31interested in the crab.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34There we go.
0:17:34 > 0:17:36Mm, I love just smearing it.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39But I'm not so sure about the mayonnaise.
0:17:39 > 0:17:43- Let's try it with it.- You're right, I'm going to try that next.
0:17:43 > 0:17:45Yeah, I think it's...doubly rich.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51A bit rich.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53I don't know, old-school but not old hat.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55SHE CHUCKLES
0:17:57 > 0:18:01Crab mousse, as enjoyed by Edward VII at Ascot in 1908.
0:18:01 > 0:18:03Let's hope his horse came in as well.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09Nowadays, it's traditional for the Queen to serve tea at Ascot.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13The only lunches served in the Royal Enclosure are at Epsom for
0:18:13 > 0:18:17the Derby. One royal chef who's prepared many racing lunches is
0:18:17 > 0:18:19Darren McGrady.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25As a Buckingham Palace chef, Darren would also work at Windsor Castle,
0:18:25 > 0:18:29where all the Royal lunches were prepared for Derby day at Epsom.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33The Queen always serves a cold buffet, and, in the 1980s,
0:18:33 > 0:18:36Darren recalls preparing some favourite fish dishes.
0:18:37 > 0:18:42I'm making a Gleneagles pate, which is layers of smoked salmon,
0:18:42 > 0:18:44smoked trout, and smoked mackerel.
0:18:44 > 0:18:47I'm going to start off with a loaf tin.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49We line the loaf tin with plastic wrap.
0:18:49 > 0:18:51And then I start taking the salmon
0:18:51 > 0:18:53and we're actually going to line the outside of the mould
0:18:53 > 0:18:55with that salmon.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58Once the tin is lined, the next step is preparing the fresh trout,
0:18:58 > 0:19:02which will make up the first layer of the pate.
0:19:02 > 0:19:05So, we're going to start off with the trout, and then, in there,
0:19:05 > 0:19:08we're going to put in some butter. See how easy this is?
0:19:08 > 0:19:11We're also going to take some lemon and squeeze it straight in.
0:19:11 > 0:19:13Add some salt and pepper...
0:19:14 > 0:19:17..and then a little fresh dill in there.
0:19:17 > 0:19:19They go into the blender.
0:19:22 > 0:19:28We are going to take this, and put this into the bottom of my mould.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32So, spend a little time just making that nice and flat so that when you
0:19:32 > 0:19:35cut into it, you'll see those beautiful layers.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39And the way to do that is to chill each layer as you go along.
0:19:39 > 0:19:42So this will go into the fridge for a little while,
0:19:42 > 0:19:44ready for the next layer.
0:19:44 > 0:19:46As the trout pate cools in the fridge,
0:19:46 > 0:19:49Darren prepares the next layer by repeating the process,
0:19:49 > 0:19:51this time using mackerel.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55He removes the skin and then blends the fish with butter, lemon,
0:19:55 > 0:19:56salt and pepper.
0:20:00 > 0:20:04This one's had about an hour in the refrigerator and that's firmed up.
0:20:04 > 0:20:08And then we can take this gorgeous smoked mackerel
0:20:08 > 0:20:10and make that our next layer.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14We always do it in that order because we want to keep a layer of
0:20:14 > 0:20:17pink, a layer of white, and a layer of pink.
0:20:17 > 0:20:19The mackerel is a much denser fish,
0:20:19 > 0:20:22so we don't need to go back to the refrigerator with this one.
0:20:22 > 0:20:27We can go straight on to that next level of adding the smoked salmon.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31And this is a straightforward salmon, again some more butter in
0:20:31 > 0:20:35there, some black pepper, a little lemon juice, and, finally...
0:20:36 > 0:20:39..this time, we're just going to put some chives in there as well.
0:20:46 > 0:20:49And then this next layer can go over the top.
0:20:49 > 0:20:50And this is our last layer.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56And we can take our salmon and roll that over the top.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59So, fold that over, press it down slightly, and then,
0:20:59 > 0:21:01with the plastic wrap that we have here...
0:21:04 > 0:21:06..that can now go into the refrigerator
0:21:06 > 0:21:08to set up the complete dish.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11Once the completed pate has set in the fridge,
0:21:11 > 0:21:14it's ready to be sliced and served.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17Now, if we were sending this to Epsom for the Derby
0:21:17 > 0:21:22for the Queen's lunch, we'd leave it wrapped, we'd pack it in ice,
0:21:22 > 0:21:24and it would go to the races just like this.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27And, once we'd got there, then we'd finish it with all the garnish.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30Slicing it onto a beautiful bed of lettuce.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34But I'm going to finish this one as if we're sending it right into
0:21:34 > 0:21:38the royal dining room. Trim off that first piece
0:21:38 > 0:21:39and, already, it's looking gorgeous.
0:21:42 > 0:21:47Gleneagles pate. Beautiful layers, smoked salmon, smoked trout,
0:21:47 > 0:21:49smoked mackerel.
0:21:49 > 0:21:51Perfect for the royal table, and a day at the races.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58At those race meetings, Edward VII loved entertaining guests.
0:21:58 > 0:22:0580 or more at a time would often have served Eton mess as a dessert.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09And in the royal kitchens at that time was a kitchen maid called
0:22:09 > 0:22:13Mildred Nicholls, and she kept the recipes in this book here,
0:22:13 > 0:22:17and she actually has got a recipe for Eton mess.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20But, Anna, you're going to do something with a bit of a twist.
0:22:20 > 0:22:22This is strawberries - the classic Eton mess.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24You're going to do something a little bit different.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27Yeah. I think everybody is used to strawberry Eton mess,
0:22:27 > 0:22:29which is delicious, but today we're going to do a tropical twist,
0:22:29 > 0:22:33with a bit of papaya, some mango, and some passion fruit.
0:22:33 > 0:22:34And it's super easy,
0:22:34 > 0:22:38it's as easy as using strawberries, but maybe a little bit more special.
0:22:38 > 0:22:41So, the first thing we're going to start with will be the meringue,
0:22:41 > 0:22:43because that's what's going to take the longest.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47And you just need to add, I think it's like half a teaspoon,
0:22:47 > 0:22:50of salt to your egg whites.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53And a tablespoon, or a teaspoon, maybe, of vinegar.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56Salt and vinegar sounds a bit...
0:22:56 > 0:22:57It's a pudding, isn't it?
0:22:57 > 0:22:59Yes, but it actually strengthens the egg whites,
0:22:59 > 0:23:03- so that you can get these lovely, soft, strong peaks.- Right.
0:23:03 > 0:23:08So, we're going to whisk it up till its forming peaks before we add
0:23:08 > 0:23:11the sugar, because it needs to have as much air as possible in it
0:23:11 > 0:23:15to give it that lovely, crispy meringue feel.
0:23:16 > 0:23:20So, I'm going to add this fairly slowly at a time,
0:23:20 > 0:23:22- not all in one go. - Is it caster sugar?
0:23:22 > 0:23:24It is caster sugar, yeah.
0:23:24 > 0:23:26I love the way it's called Eton mess.
0:23:26 > 0:23:28- There's lots of stories about it, aren't there?- There is, yeah.
0:23:28 > 0:23:31There's that funny story where the headmistress, erm,
0:23:31 > 0:23:34the cake was placed, or the dessert was placed, on her chair
0:23:34 > 0:23:35and then she sat on it.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38You could imagine the schoolgirls loved that, yeah.
0:23:38 > 0:23:41Now, there's the last of our sugar gone in.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43Ah, beautiful. But I think it has been quite traditional, hasn't it,
0:23:43 > 0:23:45at the Eton-Harrow cricket matches?
0:23:45 > 0:23:47You know, those two top public schools, when they have
0:23:47 > 0:23:50an annual cricket match, I think Eton mess is traditional.
0:23:50 > 0:23:52- Ooh, I say, it's really sticky. - Pretty much done.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54OK, now we're going to...
0:23:55 > 0:23:57..spoon this onto our tray.
0:23:58 > 0:24:02It's essentially a summer dish, obviously, using summer fruit.
0:24:02 > 0:24:04Well, I think it can be any time of year, really,
0:24:04 > 0:24:06especially since we're doing tropical fruit.
0:24:06 > 0:24:08But, yeah, I think you could have it in the summer,
0:24:08 > 0:24:11if it strawberries and raspberries.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13You could have a roasted apple one, as well,
0:24:13 > 0:24:15which would be quite delicious. Maybe put a bit of cinnamon
0:24:15 > 0:24:17in your cream, which would be quite nice.
0:24:17 > 0:24:19So, we're going to do two kind of...
0:24:19 > 0:24:20Whopping meringues.
0:24:20 > 0:24:24Two large meringues, yeah, so then we can break them up afterwards.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27Just going to smooth it out to give it a nice, kind of, round shape.
0:24:27 > 0:24:30It's still a favourite of the royal family, isn't it?
0:24:30 > 0:24:31Yes, so I hear, yeah.
0:24:31 > 0:24:33But I think it's a favourite in everybody's household.
0:24:33 > 0:24:35Did you have Eton mess?
0:24:35 > 0:24:38Yes, of course, but we had them with blackberries.
0:24:38 > 0:24:42So, into the oven at 100 degrees for about an hour and 20 minutes or so,
0:24:42 > 0:24:43until it's lovely and crispy.
0:24:43 > 0:24:44OK, ma'am.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49So, now I'm going to chop my fruit to go inside the mix.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52I already have some papaya chopped,
0:24:52 > 0:24:54and I'm going to go through some mango now.
0:24:57 > 0:24:59And then cut open the passion fruit.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01So, there's a large stone inside your mango,
0:25:01 > 0:25:04which you want to be careful to cut around.
0:25:04 > 0:25:05- Are you finished yet?- I'm not.
0:25:05 > 0:25:07Do you want to give me a hand, since I've got quite a bit to do?
0:25:07 > 0:25:10Why don't you cut open some passion fruit for me?
0:25:10 > 0:25:11OK. How do I slice this?
0:25:11 > 0:25:14Oh, a masterclass in fruit cutting. Come on.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16OK, OK.
0:25:16 > 0:25:17Straight down the centre.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20- OK. That was a bit tough, wasn't it? - There, you can do that.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22- Oh, my God, look at that. Isn't that beautiful?- Mmm.
0:25:22 > 0:25:24- Then scoop it out? - It's so beautiful.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27Like, you can get a lovely floral,
0:25:27 > 0:25:30beautiful, perfumed smell off it. It's not just about the acidity.
0:25:30 > 0:25:32- But how do you do mango as well? - Watch and learn.
0:25:32 > 0:25:34What do you want me to do with these? Scrape the middle out?
0:25:34 > 0:25:36Scoop them out with a spoon. I'll give you a spoon here.
0:25:36 > 0:25:39Just scoop them out and in with the papaya there.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43OK, so you want roughly the same amount of papaya and mango, really,
0:25:43 > 0:25:45- to go through this. - I think I did that brilliantly.
0:25:45 > 0:25:47You did. Like a professional.
0:25:47 > 0:25:49- Shall I do it again? - Yes, why not?
0:25:49 > 0:25:52Maybe stick the tip of it in the centre.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55All right.
0:25:55 > 0:25:58So, I'm going to just add my mango. Now we want my papaya.
0:25:58 > 0:26:01Actually, that works much better, doesn't it?
0:26:03 > 0:26:04- There we go.- Now, in there.
0:26:04 > 0:26:06In we go.
0:26:08 > 0:26:11So, I'm just going to start to break up the meringues.
0:26:11 > 0:26:13You need them to be nice and crispy when they come out of the oven.
0:26:13 > 0:26:15I don't know if you can hear that. That's quite nice.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17- You were tapping it and it rattled. - Yeah.
0:26:17 > 0:26:20So, we're just going to break it now into the bowl.
0:26:20 > 0:26:21- How big are the pieces?- Quite large.
0:26:21 > 0:26:25You want to feel that texture of the crispiness of your meringue.
0:26:25 > 0:26:27And then we're going to fold through
0:26:27 > 0:26:29with a couple of spoons of your cream.
0:26:29 > 0:26:32Just go behind you there.
0:26:32 > 0:26:34Looks like frogspawn, this stuff, doesn't it?
0:26:34 > 0:26:35It does, actually!
0:26:35 > 0:26:36- But it smells...- Amazing, isn't it?
0:26:36 > 0:26:38..absolutely divine.
0:26:38 > 0:26:41- So floral.- Really, really nice. - It's really, really beautiful.
0:26:41 > 0:26:43OK, so just gently fold your meringue through the cream.
0:26:43 > 0:26:44You don't want to break it up any more.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46- You don't want to really shatter it, do you?- No, no.
0:26:46 > 0:26:49And then we're just going to put a spoon of each
0:26:49 > 0:26:52in whatever serving dish you're going to be using.
0:26:52 > 0:26:53Mm-hm.
0:26:54 > 0:26:57Oh, I can just feel the anticipation of wanting to eat this,
0:26:57 > 0:26:59because I can hear the kind of gentle crisp of the meringue
0:26:59 > 0:27:01being mixed with the cream.
0:27:01 > 0:27:03- It feels lovely. - It's the ultimate temptation.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05Yeah, and it reminds me of being a kid, and this was the part
0:27:05 > 0:27:08that you were always allowed help with, nothing else.
0:27:08 > 0:27:10And scraping round the bowl and all that kind of stuff.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13Now look at this. The colour of this is so beautiful.
0:27:13 > 0:27:16- That's brilliant. - The beautiful orange and yellows.
0:27:16 > 0:27:21- A little...- And you're just putting it on the top?- Just on the top.
0:27:21 > 0:27:23Now, of course, you could mix it through...
0:27:23 > 0:27:25Is that because you haven't time? Would you mix it through?
0:27:25 > 0:27:28You could mix it through if you want, but I think that by putting
0:27:28 > 0:27:31it just on top, you get this glorious colour and, straightaway,
0:27:31 > 0:27:33you get this lovely perfume smell off it.
0:27:33 > 0:27:36And I suppose if the trick for the dish is to have the contrast
0:27:36 > 0:27:38between the textures and the tastes,
0:27:38 > 0:27:41- then having them different would be different.- Yeah.- OK.
0:27:41 > 0:27:43- You might need a spoon. - I think I might.
0:27:43 > 0:27:45- You get stuck in first.- No, come on, ladies first.
0:27:45 > 0:27:48- You don't have to tell me twice!- No, no, quite.
0:27:48 > 0:27:51- Oh, you can just hear the crunch of the meringue...- You can.
0:27:51 > 0:27:52..and that's what I love so much.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55You can make a real mess with it. Oh, mess!
0:27:55 > 0:27:57Oh!
0:27:57 > 0:27:58Mm!
0:27:58 > 0:28:00- It's so delicious.- Mm!
0:28:00 > 0:28:04You could just imagine King Edward VII at Ascot, can't you?
0:28:04 > 0:28:08- Mm.- Celebrating his winners with Eton mess and champagne.
0:28:08 > 0:28:10Oh, you're like a poet.
0:28:10 > 0:28:12Perfect end to this programme.
0:28:12 > 0:28:13See you next time.