On the Move

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05'The royal family are steeped in tradition and, throughout history,

0:00:05 > 0:00:07'the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'

0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe

0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.

0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and the past...'

0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal!

0:00:17 > 0:00:20'..we recreate old family favourites...'

0:00:20 > 0:00:24Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.

0:00:24 > 0:00:26What a mess.

0:00:26 > 0:00:28'..we sample royal eating alfresco...'

0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow!- That is what you want.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times.'

0:00:34 > 0:00:37Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters

0:00:37 > 0:00:41- and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.- Unbelievable!

0:00:41 > 0:00:43'This is Royal Recipes.'

0:00:46 > 0:00:50Hello, I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:00:50 > 0:00:54This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes,

0:00:54 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.

0:00:59 > 0:01:02In the splendour of the gardens, halls and kitchen

0:01:02 > 0:01:05of this grandest of country houses,

0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.

0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here with this gem,

0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook -

0:01:16 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the royal archive.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,

0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28Inside - the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,

0:01:28 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.

0:01:32 > 0:01:35And for the first time in over 100 years,

0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.

0:01:42 > 0:01:45'This time, we're cooking food inspired by

0:01:45 > 0:01:47'the royal family's travels.

0:01:47 > 0:01:50'We're going on the move with the Queen and the Windsors,

0:01:50 > 0:01:52'overseas and at home.

0:01:52 > 0:01:54'Today, in the Royal Recipes kitchen,

0:01:54 > 0:01:56'chef Paul Ainsworth is inspired

0:01:56 > 0:02:00'by Prince Philip's Canadian trip across the Arctic Circle...'

0:02:00 > 0:02:02I bet that was better than the duke had.

0:02:02 > 0:02:04Thank you very much.

0:02:04 > 0:02:07'..Dr Matt Green investigates the history

0:02:07 > 0:02:09'of a favoured royal tipple,

0:02:09 > 0:02:11'taken on tours at home and abroad...'

0:02:11 > 0:02:13- Ooh, that is delicious! - Isn't that gorgeous?- Ooh, that is.

0:02:13 > 0:02:16- That really is.- Yeah. - I might have to have another sip.

0:02:16 > 0:02:20'..and a top chef cooks Indian food the way Prince Charles likes it.'

0:02:20 > 0:02:23And I made sure that I cooked it to perfection

0:02:23 > 0:02:26when I got the chance to cook for His Highness.

0:02:30 > 0:02:33In the grand setting of this stately home,

0:02:33 > 0:02:36we're going on tour with Her Majesty.

0:02:36 > 0:02:40Welcome to the historic kitchen with the very modern,

0:02:40 > 0:02:43Michelin-starred chef Paul Ainsworth.

0:02:43 > 0:02:45- Paul, we're going travelling today. - We are.

0:02:45 > 0:02:46The Queen does a lot of travelling.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49In fact, she's the most travelled monarch we've ever had.

0:02:49 > 0:02:52She's been to 128 countries,

0:02:52 > 0:02:55and the country that she's been to most,

0:02:55 > 0:02:58- not surprisingly, I suppose, is Canada.- Right.

0:02:58 > 0:03:01As far as food's concerned, what does Canada make you think of?

0:03:01 > 0:03:03Straightaway - maple syrup, crispy bacon.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06Oh, that stuff that shatters when you try to cut it?

0:03:06 > 0:03:07That's it. That's the stuff.

0:03:07 > 0:03:09But also, they're very fond of game.

0:03:09 > 0:03:11What are you going to cook for us today, then?

0:03:11 > 0:03:14Today, I'm going to cook for you a beautiful loin of reindeer

0:03:14 > 0:03:15with an amazing sauce.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- So, how are you going to do it? - What we've got here, Michael,

0:03:18 > 0:03:21is the loin, so what we call the saddle - right along the top.

0:03:21 > 0:03:24And what we're going to do is we're just going to wrap it in bacon,

0:03:24 > 0:03:26and that is our fat - we're adding our fat.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29- You're stopping it from drying out and getting stringy.- Absolutely.

0:03:29 > 0:03:32We've got that lovely flavour of the bacon.

0:03:32 > 0:03:35- So, we'll just...- That's a bit tricky.- Just over like that.

0:03:35 > 0:03:36And do you know what?

0:03:36 > 0:03:38When it comes over the other side, it's ever so pretty.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40So, we're just going to go over one more time,

0:03:40 > 0:03:43but we don't want to go too much. Then we're just going to cut that.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45- Just to make it look neat? - Yeah, just to make it look neat

0:03:45 > 0:03:47and I don't really need all of that.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49We've gone over twice,

0:03:49 > 0:03:52so the loin is properly sealed in there, OK?

0:03:52 > 0:03:56Here, lovely British ingredient - rapeseed oil.

0:03:56 > 0:03:58So, just going to take a nice knob of butter, straight into the pan,

0:03:58 > 0:04:02- and we'll get cooking straightaway. - A lot of butter in there. Wow.

0:04:02 > 0:04:05But we want to get that really nice and hot. OK.

0:04:05 > 0:04:07So, Michael, we're going to turn it over

0:04:07 > 0:04:09and we're going to put it join side down.

0:04:09 > 0:04:12So, in we go. Just nice and gently like that.

0:04:12 > 0:04:15And you know what the trick is, Michael? Moving the butter.

0:04:15 > 0:04:16- Right.- By moving the butter,

0:04:16 > 0:04:19you're then controlling the temperature,

0:04:19 > 0:04:21and we control that by adding a little bit more butter

0:04:21 > 0:04:23to cool it down or moving it.

0:04:23 > 0:04:25- But you don't turn the actual meat? - Yeah, we're going to turn it,

0:04:25 > 0:04:27- but we want to get flavour. - You're going to sear it first.

0:04:27 > 0:04:30- Yeah.- Yeah.- Garlic.- Yeah. - And what that's going to do,

0:04:30 > 0:04:32that's going to permeate through the butter

0:04:32 > 0:04:34- and go right into that venison. - And you just split it?

0:04:34 > 0:04:36- Just split it. Leave the skin on. - You don't blast it.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39- Thyme. Again, just rub it in our hands.- Mm-hm.

0:04:39 > 0:04:41- Oh, yeah, yeah.- Delicious. OK?

0:04:41 > 0:04:45Watch out cos the thyme will spit a little bit, like that.

0:04:45 > 0:04:48So, we're just going to move it over like that.

0:04:48 > 0:04:50Just look at how it's starting to go crispy now, Michael.

0:04:50 > 0:04:53- Yeah.- Absolutely delicious.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56We actually know the Duke of Edinburgh

0:04:56 > 0:04:57has eaten, well, caribou.

0:04:57 > 0:05:00He was the first member of the royal family

0:05:00 > 0:05:03to actually cross the Arctic Circle and he had caribou then.

0:05:03 > 0:05:05- And caribou's rather like reindeer, isn't it?- Yeah, absolutely.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08Again, under that kind of venison umbrella.

0:05:08 > 0:05:11- But I don't think his was as nice as this.- Right.

0:05:11 > 0:05:12So, we're now going to...

0:05:14 > 0:05:16..transfer this to a tray and we're going to cook that in the oven

0:05:16 > 0:05:19and, believe it or not, do you know how long that'll take in the oven?

0:05:19 > 0:05:22- About six minutes. - Six minutes?- Six minutes.

0:05:22 > 0:05:24And do you know what you want to do, Michael, as well?

0:05:24 > 0:05:26That join side, where the bacon is,

0:05:26 > 0:05:29- we want to keep that join side down, like that.- Yeah.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32- Looks good?- It does. It does. It looks really good.

0:05:32 > 0:05:34So, beautifully caramelised, that lovely bacon flavour.

0:05:34 > 0:05:36If you could just pop that one into the oven for me

0:05:36 > 0:05:38and grab the other one that's cooked.

0:05:38 > 0:05:40It's had a nice, long rest.

0:05:40 > 0:05:41- Yes, Chef.- Thank you.

0:05:44 > 0:05:46- Here we are, Paul. - Thank you very much.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50- On the resting grid. That's important?- Yes, that's it.

0:05:50 > 0:05:53What we're going to do - straight off and onto there.

0:05:53 > 0:05:55- Right.- OK?

0:05:55 > 0:05:57- Ready to make some sauce? - Absolutely. What have you got here?

0:05:57 > 0:05:59So, we've got some shallot here that has just been

0:05:59 > 0:06:02basically cooked without colour in a little bit of butter.

0:06:02 > 0:06:03We're just going to get that moving around.

0:06:03 > 0:06:06While that's happening, remember that bacon that I cut off?

0:06:06 > 0:06:08- Yeah.- We're just going to cut it up nice and small.

0:06:10 > 0:06:13So, just going to move that shallot and bacon, which is delicious.

0:06:13 > 0:06:17- Right, that's our base for the sauce.- Yeah.

0:06:17 > 0:06:20Next, we've got here mushroom ketchup.

0:06:20 > 0:06:22Not much, all right?

0:06:22 > 0:06:26We're just going to literally deglaze the pan.

0:06:26 > 0:06:28Next, we're going to add our Madeira.

0:06:28 > 0:06:30Now, we don't put the mushroom ketchup in

0:06:30 > 0:06:32and then the Madeira in. We want a fast reduction,

0:06:32 > 0:06:34so we want to cook this fast so we retain the flavour.

0:06:34 > 0:06:37Otherwise, it's just all disappearing into the atmosphere.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39So, Madeira.

0:06:39 > 0:06:41Oh, what a waste of a glass of Madeira!

0:06:41 > 0:06:43No, I'm telling you, it's not.

0:06:43 > 0:06:46And now we're going to let that reduce right down, OK?

0:06:46 > 0:06:49In the meantime, I've cooked some kale,

0:06:49 > 0:06:50which is so beautiful with this dish.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53Just going to put our kale back on to warm.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56And now we're going to add our beef stock.

0:07:01 > 0:07:02Going to bring that to the boil

0:07:02 > 0:07:05and then we're just going to add in peppercorns.

0:07:05 > 0:07:09These are pink ones, Michael, and they've been brined, as well,

0:07:09 > 0:07:11so they've got, actually, a nice acidity to them.

0:07:11 > 0:07:13They're not, like, a harsh pepper taste.

0:07:13 > 0:07:16- Little bit of cream.- Oh, your little bit of cream. Let's have a look.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19- Watch, it is little.- Yeah. - Only a little bit.- Yeah.

0:07:19 > 0:07:21- Definitely the butter? - Just a little bit.

0:07:21 > 0:07:23And that, we're just going to let that melt in there.

0:07:23 > 0:07:25- Right, it's time to plate up.- Yeah.

0:07:25 > 0:07:29We've got our kale that we've just, like I said, cooked in butter.

0:07:29 > 0:07:31- Just smell that.- Yeah, but look...

0:07:31 > 0:07:33Oh, the smell is lovely, but look at the colour.

0:07:33 > 0:07:35- Colour of it.- Look at the colour.

0:07:35 > 0:07:37Beautiful and green, nice and buttery.

0:07:37 > 0:07:38- Beautiful.- Mm-hm.

0:07:38 > 0:07:39- OK, ready?- Yeah.

0:07:39 > 0:07:43- Go on, do it! Do it!- OK. First bit is for you to try.

0:07:43 > 0:07:45- Look at that.- Oh!

0:07:45 > 0:07:49And that is what you call cooked properly. It's not raw.

0:07:49 > 0:07:51And that's because the meat was at room temperature.

0:07:51 > 0:07:52- Crunchy bacon.- Mm!

0:07:54 > 0:07:57Carve that all the way along. Our sauce is nice and ready.

0:07:57 > 0:07:59And then we're just going to pile them on like that.

0:07:59 > 0:08:01That is just...

0:08:01 > 0:08:04That is absolutely beautifully cooked.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06And we're just going to take some thyme...

0:08:06 > 0:08:11- It's really succulent. - ..like that. And now our sauce.

0:08:12 > 0:08:18- Just look at that. Just over, OK? - Yeah.- And there you have it.

0:08:18 > 0:08:19Beautiful.

0:08:19 > 0:08:22Right, let's have a noodle of your noisette.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25- There we go. There we are. - Dig in. Dig in.

0:08:25 > 0:08:29- Can I go first?- Go for it. Yeah, absolutely.- Shall we try this one?

0:08:29 > 0:08:30Oh, look at that!

0:08:30 > 0:08:33Look at the different colours.

0:08:33 > 0:08:34Mm-mm-mm!

0:08:38 > 0:08:44- Mm!- Happy?- Mm! Yeah, the sauce has got a lovely kind of acidity to it.

0:08:44 > 0:08:45Mm!

0:08:50 > 0:08:52I bet that was better than the Duke had.

0:08:52 > 0:08:55Thank you very much.

0:08:55 > 0:08:58My pleasure, in every possible way.

0:08:58 > 0:09:02A game dish inspired by royal tours of Canada.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05Wherever the Queen travels, she's said to enjoy a taste of home

0:09:05 > 0:09:08and one treat in particular.

0:09:17 > 0:09:20Top chef Anna Haugh is heading north...

0:09:22 > 0:09:24..in search of a slice of what's reported to be

0:09:24 > 0:09:27a regal tea-time favourite

0:09:27 > 0:09:30wherever in the world Her Majesty happens to be.

0:09:30 > 0:09:33Apparently, when the Queen goes on foreign visits,

0:09:33 > 0:09:35she has a list of things that she brings with her.

0:09:35 > 0:09:38One of the things she brings with her is tea,

0:09:38 > 0:09:40which is understandable, because we're all very sensitive

0:09:40 > 0:09:44about our perfect cup of tea, but she also brings a cake -

0:09:44 > 0:09:46Dundee cake.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49This reigning monarch, who could have anything she wants,

0:09:49 > 0:09:52and she wants Dundee cake with her wherever she goes.

0:09:52 > 0:09:54And I thought that was so interesting.

0:09:55 > 0:10:00This fruit cake shares its name with the city of Dundee on the banks of

0:10:00 > 0:10:05the River Tay, famous for The Broons, jam and marmalade.

0:10:05 > 0:10:07But what's so distinctive about it?

0:10:07 > 0:10:10To find out, Anna has headed just south of Dundee

0:10:10 > 0:10:11to Cupar in Fife,

0:10:11 > 0:10:15the hometown of Scottish bakers to the royal household,

0:10:15 > 0:10:16Fisher & Donaldson.

0:10:16 > 0:10:19"Team members required." Might be a good job for me.

0:10:19 > 0:10:24- Hi, I hear you're hiring.- We are. Would you like a wee trial?- Why not?

0:10:24 > 0:10:28And she's joining the staff behind the counter of the shop.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31Right, so, I'm here for some Dundee cake.

0:10:31 > 0:10:34- OK. Would you like to come over and have a wee look?- Yes.

0:10:35 > 0:10:37Do you want to have a little feel and...?

0:10:37 > 0:10:40Oh, it's much lighter than I expected it to be.

0:10:40 > 0:10:42- This is the small one? - That's the individual one, yeah.

0:10:42 > 0:10:44That's super cute. Look at that.

0:10:44 > 0:10:47All the nuts, all lovely placed around.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50- Yeah, by the nutter.- By the nutter! - BOTH LAUGH

0:10:52 > 0:10:55Anna's now heading to the nearby bakery headquarters

0:10:55 > 0:11:00to find out what goes into the cake to give it that unique flavour.

0:11:00 > 0:11:03Ben Milne has worked in the factory since he was a boy

0:11:03 > 0:11:06and is the fifth generation of his family to do so.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08It's quite a simple recipe.

0:11:08 > 0:11:10Well, the first thing we do is we put the butter

0:11:10 > 0:11:12and the sugar into the mixer.

0:11:12 > 0:11:15Mix this for about two or three minutes.

0:11:15 > 0:11:17The next thing we need to do is just put the eggs in,

0:11:17 > 0:11:19pouring in a little bit at a time.

0:11:19 > 0:11:21- That looks like that's coming together nicely.- Yeah.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24And then the next stage is to add your marmalade,

0:11:24 > 0:11:26your ground almonds, your mixed peel.

0:11:26 > 0:11:29Is there some sort of story that, originally, it was cherries,

0:11:29 > 0:11:30or have I got that wrong?

0:11:30 > 0:11:32The idea was Mary Queen of Scots didn't like cherries.

0:11:32 > 0:11:33They put almonds on instead.

0:11:33 > 0:11:36But the Dundee cake was popularised

0:11:36 > 0:11:38and certainly mass-produced by the Keillers,

0:11:38 > 0:11:41- who were a marmalade producer... - Ah, I see, I see.- ..in Dundee.

0:11:41 > 0:11:42Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:11:42 > 0:11:45So, they used Sevillian oranges in their marmalade

0:11:45 > 0:11:48and that's how the marmalade ended up in the Dundee cake.

0:11:48 > 0:11:50It all makes sense now.

0:11:50 > 0:11:54And then your mixed peel. We're going to add the flour.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57So, now we just add the fruit by hand at the end. Fold that in.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00The next thing is to put it into the baking tin

0:12:00 > 0:12:02and you want to get it nice and smooth

0:12:02 > 0:12:05so that it's easier to put the nuts on the top.

0:12:05 > 0:12:07The ladies in the shop mentioned that the person

0:12:07 > 0:12:09who puts the nuts on top is called the nutter.

0:12:09 > 0:12:13Yeah, well, it takes quite a while to place all the almonds on the top,

0:12:13 > 0:12:15so, yeah, if you're not a nutter before you start the job,

0:12:15 > 0:12:18you certainly are when you get to the end!

0:12:18 > 0:12:21After nutting, it's into the oven at 170 degrees

0:12:21 > 0:12:25for an hour and a half or two hours, then it's ready to taste.

0:12:25 > 0:12:28Oh, that smells amazing. Smells beautiful.

0:12:28 > 0:12:31I'll just cut you a little slice off.

0:12:31 > 0:12:33Mm! Mm!

0:12:33 > 0:12:36The cake is delicious, it's well-balanced,

0:12:36 > 0:12:38it's not too light, it's not too heavy.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41- You could say it's a cake fit for a queen.- Mm.

0:12:46 > 0:12:50Apparently, when the royals are on the move in the United Kingdom,

0:12:50 > 0:12:53maybe going from, you know, one of their houses to another,

0:12:53 > 0:12:56they like to live a little more simply.

0:12:56 > 0:12:59One of their servants who actually served in several reigns,

0:12:59 > 0:13:02a guy called Charles Oliver, said they had an absolute passion -

0:13:02 > 0:13:05nearly all the royals have an absolute passion for eggs.

0:13:05 > 0:13:08The Queen, apparently, likes hers brown.

0:13:08 > 0:13:10I totally agree with the Queen.

0:13:10 > 0:13:12The dark brown ones are lovely.

0:13:12 > 0:13:13She likes her brown eggs, apparently,

0:13:13 > 0:13:15- either fried or scrambled. - Scrambled.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18- Prince Charles likes them with crumpets...- Yes.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20Apparently, the Duke of Edinburgh likes to cook omelettes -

0:13:20 > 0:13:23and he's got his own special electric frying pan

0:13:23 > 0:13:26with a glass lid. Do you approve of that?

0:13:26 > 0:13:28Not really. I don't think you can...

0:13:28 > 0:13:31With an omelette, you've got to stay classic.

0:13:31 > 0:13:36You've got to stay true to its roots and it's about having a good pan,

0:13:36 > 0:13:38good eggs and just nice seasoning,

0:13:38 > 0:13:40keeping it simple, not too many flavours,

0:13:40 > 0:13:43and just gently stirring those eggs.

0:13:43 > 0:13:47And the secret to a great omelette, which the French will call baveuse,

0:13:47 > 0:13:49which is nice and soft in the centre.

0:13:49 > 0:13:52But it's easy, isn't it? It's a doddle. Even a duke could do it.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55- Well, you're about to find out! - BOTH LAUGH

0:13:55 > 0:13:57- Go on.- So, what we're going to do,

0:13:57 > 0:13:59we're going to do omelette with fine herbs.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02So, we're just going to start, Michael, by chopping some chives.

0:14:02 > 0:14:04God, you're doing that very, very fine.

0:14:04 > 0:14:07- So, that's our chives.- Yeah. - I'm going to take some tarragon.

0:14:07 > 0:14:10Got the nice, small tarragon here. Leave it on the stalk.

0:14:10 > 0:14:12When it's so young like this,

0:14:12 > 0:14:14just nice on the stalk, it's a lovely flavour.

0:14:14 > 0:14:17- Do you think the Duke does this? - Maybe.- Maybe his people do it.- Yeah.

0:14:17 > 0:14:21- OK, our last herb - parsley. - Yeah.- Great herb, parsley.

0:14:23 > 0:14:25- OK. Pan on now, all right?- Yeah.

0:14:25 > 0:14:27While our pan's getting nice and hot,

0:14:27 > 0:14:28we're going to go with our eggs.

0:14:28 > 0:14:32For the omelette, this size of pan - these are quite nice, large eggs.

0:14:32 > 0:14:33We're going to use exactly like the Queen likes.

0:14:33 > 0:14:35We're going to go with the nice, dark brown ones.

0:14:35 > 0:14:38- Look at the colour of those yolks. - That's a really rich colour.

0:14:38 > 0:14:42- They are gorgeous, aren't they? - There you go.

0:14:42 > 0:14:44OK.

0:14:44 > 0:14:46Whisk the eggs up.

0:14:46 > 0:14:47Now...

0:14:49 > 0:14:50..at this stage...

0:14:54 > 0:14:56Right, nice pinch of chives. Now, some people...

0:14:56 > 0:15:00- These herbs aren't for decoration. - Wouldn't some people put that in later?

0:15:00 > 0:15:02They'd put that in later, exactly.

0:15:02 > 0:15:03And that's a very good point you raise

0:15:03 > 0:15:07and we're putting it in now because this isn't for decoration.

0:15:07 > 0:15:08We want flavour.

0:15:08 > 0:15:11- So, it gives it more time... - Absolutely.

0:15:11 > 0:15:12- ..to steep into it?- Right.

0:15:14 > 0:15:16I could do this, you know. I could do this.

0:15:16 > 0:15:18This is the key here.

0:15:18 > 0:15:19Gently.

0:15:19 > 0:15:22- Now control the heat.- Yeah.

0:15:22 > 0:15:24Now back on the heat.

0:15:24 > 0:15:28- And you see how lovely and soft those eggs are?- Mm-hm.- OK?

0:15:28 > 0:15:30And we're just basically setting the bottom.

0:15:30 > 0:15:32- Patting it out. - Yeah, we're patting it out.

0:15:32 > 0:15:35Now, just gently, you can start to see, underneath,

0:15:35 > 0:15:37- it's going to come together like that, all right?- Yeah.

0:15:37 > 0:15:40So, we're just going to turn it round like that

0:15:40 > 0:15:42and basically just roll our omelette over.

0:15:42 > 0:15:44- Can you do that?- That's it, yeah.

0:15:44 > 0:15:46We're just going to now take our plate...

0:15:46 > 0:15:49And for me, if you're tipping an omelette out of the pan,

0:15:49 > 0:15:51it's cooked.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53It's gone right the way through. It's like rubber.

0:15:53 > 0:15:55We want that lovely, soft egg.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58So, we're just going to gently take it out,

0:15:58 > 0:16:00place it on our plate like that.

0:16:00 > 0:16:04Can you see how those eggs are just so lovely and still gooey and soft?

0:16:04 > 0:16:07- Yeah, yeah.- And now, if you want, just a little bit more herbs.

0:16:07 > 0:16:09Oh, you sprinkle some more on the top?

0:16:09 > 0:16:11- OK? And that's it. - Incredibly simple.- Simple as that.

0:16:11 > 0:16:12Let's be having it. Here we go.

0:16:12 > 0:16:15You are eager, aren't you? You're looking forward to this one.

0:16:15 > 0:16:17- It's the best bit. - It's so simple, but delicious.

0:16:17 > 0:16:19- Come on, get on with it!- Go on. - Stop talking.- In you go.

0:16:19 > 0:16:21Talk, talk, talk!

0:16:21 > 0:16:24I'm surprised you ever get round to serving in your restaurant!

0:16:24 > 0:16:27PAUL CHUCKLES Mm! Ooh!

0:16:29 > 0:16:32Mm, that is really nice.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34Lovely omelette.

0:16:34 > 0:16:36An egg and herb delight.

0:16:36 > 0:16:38The easiest of dishes to cook and eat,

0:16:38 > 0:16:40whatever the location.

0:16:44 > 0:16:48Overseas tours can tickle royal taste buds, as well.

0:16:48 > 0:16:50After two recent visits to the subcontinent,

0:16:50 > 0:16:54Prince Charles is said to be more interested in Indian food.

0:16:54 > 0:16:57With the job of developing the prince's palate

0:16:57 > 0:17:00is Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar.

0:17:04 > 0:17:07Chef Atul knows mutton is the Prince of Wales' favourite meat.

0:17:07 > 0:17:11He's chosen a shoulder cut to cook a dish which will perfectly showcase

0:17:11 > 0:17:14the most delicate nihari spice mix.

0:17:14 > 0:17:17I'm going to make a mutton pie, but it's just not a mutton pie -

0:17:17 > 0:17:19it's THE mutton pie.

0:17:19 > 0:17:22I've cooked this on a couple of occasions for Prince Charles.

0:17:22 > 0:17:25I had kept the recipe very mild,

0:17:25 > 0:17:28because he's not a huge fan of massive spices.

0:17:28 > 0:17:31We're going to make a marinade. Now, ginger, garlic.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34So, I'm not going to use a huge amount, but about a tablespoon

0:17:34 > 0:17:38and we have about a good 300g of thick yoghurt.

0:17:38 > 0:17:39Garam masala.

0:17:42 > 0:17:44Turmeric powder.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46Salt to taste.

0:17:46 > 0:17:48Lemon juice.

0:17:48 > 0:17:50It's best to take the seeds out, if you can.

0:17:53 > 0:17:56Prince Charles is very keen on mutton, and so am I.

0:17:56 > 0:17:58The smell is just amazing.

0:17:58 > 0:18:01It will be taken over by the flavours.

0:18:01 > 0:18:04Rub in all the nooks and the corners.

0:18:04 > 0:18:06OK, that's it.

0:18:06 > 0:18:09And this needs to go for resting.

0:18:09 > 0:18:11Next, Atul makes the sauce for the pie.

0:18:11 > 0:18:15He adds spices, including black cardamom, cinnamon,

0:18:15 > 0:18:19cloves and mace to hot mustard oil.

0:18:19 > 0:18:22And the spices are crackling and that's a very good sign.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25The sliced onions here, which can go in.

0:18:27 > 0:18:30Then he adds ginger, garlic, coriander,

0:18:30 > 0:18:32nutmeg and dried rose petals.

0:18:32 > 0:18:35OK, I'm going to bring the lamb in.

0:18:36 > 0:18:40And from here on, I have some lamb stock.

0:18:40 > 0:18:41That goes in.

0:18:44 > 0:18:46The lid goes on.

0:18:46 > 0:18:50160 degrees for six hours in the oven

0:18:50 > 0:18:53and we'll have our nihari almost there.

0:18:54 > 0:18:55Once the mutton is ready,

0:18:55 > 0:18:58Atul removes the slow-cooked meat from the bone

0:18:58 > 0:19:02and adds it back into the sauce, along with some vegetables.

0:19:04 > 0:19:07So, I have the mixture ready for my mutton pie.

0:19:07 > 0:19:08So, we have beautiful mash here.

0:19:08 > 0:19:10Got a piping bag ready.

0:19:16 > 0:19:18The mash is ready. Let's get the pastry cases.

0:19:19 > 0:19:22We've got mutton and let's fill it.

0:19:24 > 0:19:27And let's be generous about it.

0:19:29 > 0:19:31That's pretty good.

0:19:33 > 0:19:35While the pies go in the oven,

0:19:35 > 0:19:38Atul sautees some beetroot and Brussel tops.

0:19:38 > 0:19:40Just need to plate up.

0:19:40 > 0:19:41Let's go for it.

0:19:41 > 0:19:45I'm just going to roll a few Brussel tops.

0:19:45 > 0:19:50Nihari is something which is a kind of celebration food for people.

0:19:50 > 0:19:52And I don't want to get it wrong -

0:19:52 > 0:19:54this is a very important recipe for me.

0:19:56 > 0:19:57Paul, we all know, don't we,

0:19:57 > 0:19:59or at least it's been widely reported,

0:19:59 > 0:20:03that the Queen's favourite tipple is gin and Dubonnet.

0:20:03 > 0:20:06- Packs a real punch.- Don't mind if I do, Michael. Thank you.

0:20:06 > 0:20:09Prince Charles likes gin too, but he likes gin and tonic.

0:20:09 > 0:20:11I quite like this, actually.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14- The common thread is gin.- Right, OK.

0:20:14 > 0:20:18Historian Dr Matt Green looks at the origins

0:20:18 > 0:20:20of what is really a very regal drink.

0:20:25 > 0:20:30Matt has come to a gin distillery in Chiswick, West London.

0:20:30 > 0:20:33I'm here to meet a man called Jared Brown.

0:20:33 > 0:20:35He's the master distiller at Sipsmith Gin

0:20:35 > 0:20:38and he's going to tell us the fantastic story

0:20:38 > 0:20:42of how a foreign king turned us into a nation of gin drinkers.

0:20:42 > 0:20:44It might look like a drab, anonymous warehouse,

0:20:44 > 0:20:47but through those doors, that's where the magic happens.

0:20:51 > 0:20:53- Welcome.- Hi, Jared. How's it going?- Good.

0:20:53 > 0:20:57- How are you?- I'm very well. This is...extraordinary.

0:20:57 > 0:20:58So, talk me through it.

0:20:58 > 0:21:01I mean, it's the hissing that strikes you first, isn't it?

0:21:01 > 0:21:04That's the steam heating these stills.

0:21:04 > 0:21:06- OK.- Warming them.

0:21:06 > 0:21:09Sipsmith is the first copper-pot distillery

0:21:09 > 0:21:13to open within London's city limits in nearly two centuries.

0:21:13 > 0:21:16- These are the botanicals that we use in the gin.- OK.

0:21:16 > 0:21:20- The star of the show, of course, is the juniper.- The juniper.

0:21:20 > 0:21:24But by volume, the next ingredient is Russian coriander.

0:21:24 > 0:21:26This is cinnamon,

0:21:26 > 0:21:29and then we use orris root liquorice,

0:21:29 > 0:21:33which gives the perception of sweetness on the palate.

0:21:33 > 0:21:35- So, all of these, without fail, will be in every single gin?- Yes.

0:21:35 > 0:21:37That's amazing.

0:21:37 > 0:21:40London dry gin as we know it evolved from a simple,

0:21:40 > 0:21:44juniper-flavoured grain spirit produced in Holland -

0:21:44 > 0:21:46the home of William of Orange,

0:21:46 > 0:21:49who was soon to become William III of England.

0:21:49 > 0:21:51At that time, it wasn't even called gin.

0:21:51 > 0:21:53It was called genever.

0:21:53 > 0:21:56I've got some genever here.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00- Wow.- It's still made in the Netherlands.- Mm-hm.

0:22:01 > 0:22:06- And first, note the colour. - It looks like whisky.- Yeah, exactly.

0:22:06 > 0:22:11When William married the British Queen Mary II in 1689,

0:22:11 > 0:22:14he began to encourage gin production here.

0:22:14 > 0:22:16Did he say, "I'm going to pass a law to make it easy

0:22:16 > 0:22:18"for anyone to open a distillery"?

0:22:18 > 0:22:22He threw the door open and if you wanted to be a gin distiller,

0:22:22 > 0:22:23you put a sign up

0:22:23 > 0:22:26and in ten days, that was a legal distilling premise.

0:22:26 > 0:22:30What King William did with that simple act

0:22:30 > 0:22:34was he made gin, or genever, cheaper than beer.

0:22:34 > 0:22:39It exploded. In 1721, there was a working gin still

0:22:39 > 0:22:42in one out of every four buildings in London.

0:22:42 > 0:22:45Genever, at this point, was abbreviated to gin,

0:22:45 > 0:22:47and fast became a blight,

0:22:47 > 0:22:52as documented in Hogarth's cartoon of 1751, Gin Lane.

0:22:52 > 0:22:54Such was the anti-gin outcry,

0:22:54 > 0:22:58Parliament finally succeeded in regulating gin production.

0:22:58 > 0:23:03The Gin Act of 1751 helped refine and transform gin

0:23:03 > 0:23:06from the scourge of a nation to its national drink.

0:23:07 > 0:23:11Most of us love our gin with tonic and a slice of lemon,

0:23:11 > 0:23:14but the Queen Mother had her own particular recipe.

0:23:14 > 0:23:16From what I've heard,

0:23:16 > 0:23:19she would stop off at the American Bar at The Savoy

0:23:19 > 0:23:21and have a gin and it...

0:23:21 > 0:23:23- OK, what does that mean? - ..which is gin with Italian.

0:23:23 > 0:23:26The "it" is short for Italian vermouth.

0:23:26 > 0:23:29- OK.- And when you refer to it as Italian vermouth,

0:23:29 > 0:23:33that generally means the sweet or rosso vermouth.

0:23:33 > 0:23:36Three parts gin and one part Italian vermouth,

0:23:36 > 0:23:39the gin and it was a big hit in London,

0:23:39 > 0:23:42where the bright young things had gone cocktail mad.

0:23:42 > 0:23:45Harry Craddock, who would have possibly

0:23:45 > 0:23:48also served drinks to the Queen Mum,

0:23:48 > 0:23:53he said a cocktail should be drunk while it's still laughing at you.

0:23:53 > 0:23:56- MATT LAUGHS - Well, on that note, cheers.- Cheers.

0:23:59 > 0:24:02- Ooh, that is delicious. - Isn't that gorgeous?- Ooh, that is.

0:24:02 > 0:24:04- That really is.- Yeah. - I might have to have another sip.

0:24:07 > 0:24:10We're going to turn to the recipe book

0:24:10 > 0:24:13of the kitchen maid in Buckingham Palace

0:24:13 > 0:24:16in the early years of the 20th century, Mildred Nicholls.

0:24:16 > 0:24:18- There's a recipe for lemon cheesecake.- Lemon cheesecake.

0:24:18 > 0:24:20So, are you doing Mildred's actual recipe?

0:24:20 > 0:24:24Not exactly. We're doing a homage to Mildred.

0:24:24 > 0:24:26Mildred did, basically, little tartlets

0:24:26 > 0:24:29that she would then fill with this lovely lemon mixture,

0:24:29 > 0:24:31which, back then, was called cheesecake,

0:24:31 > 0:24:33which we now know as curd.

0:24:33 > 0:24:37So, what we're doing is essentially a big cheesecake

0:24:37 > 0:24:39with that lovely base as we know it

0:24:39 > 0:24:41and then Mildred's lemon curd mixture on top.

0:24:41 > 0:24:43We've got some ginger nut biscuit,

0:24:43 > 0:24:45- and we're just going to add in the butter.- Yeah.- OK?

0:24:45 > 0:24:48And what we're doing, we just want to make a bind, basically.

0:24:48 > 0:24:50So, just give that a bit more of a mix.

0:24:50 > 0:24:52OK? And then, when you've mixed that,

0:24:52 > 0:24:55pour it all in there, and then, just with your spoon,

0:24:55 > 0:24:57crush it down so you make a nice, thin base,

0:24:57 > 0:24:59- like you would for a cheesecake.- OK.

0:24:59 > 0:25:03Over here, Michael, I'm going to now make the lemon curd.

0:25:03 > 0:25:08- I've got the unskilled job here, have I?- Every job, there's a skill.

0:25:08 > 0:25:10Right, that's fine. Now put that into there

0:25:10 > 0:25:12- and then, with your spoon, pat it down.- OK.

0:25:12 > 0:25:16Meanwhile, I'm going to add two egg yolks to four eggs.

0:25:16 > 0:25:19We're going to get our butter in the pan.

0:25:19 > 0:25:21And that's the nice thing about curd -

0:25:21 > 0:25:24that lovely richness that comes from the butter.

0:25:24 > 0:25:27- So, did you say two egg yolks to four eggs?- Two egg yolks.

0:25:27 > 0:25:30- So, it's yolk heavy? - Yeah, for richness.- Yeah.

0:25:30 > 0:25:34- Sugar. OK?- Yeah.

0:25:34 > 0:25:36We're just going to stir that in.

0:25:37 > 0:25:39And what you don't want to do, you don't want to let it catch.

0:25:39 > 0:25:41Do I really press this down?

0:25:41 > 0:25:43Really press it down. That's really important.

0:25:43 > 0:25:45Otherwise, when you take that slice, it's just going to crumble.

0:25:45 > 0:25:47Right, as you can see, Michael,

0:25:47 > 0:25:50I'm just putting lemon zest into here.

0:25:50 > 0:25:52OK, so, we've got those in.

0:25:52 > 0:25:54Now cut those two lemons,

0:25:54 > 0:25:56and we're just going to take that juice.

0:25:56 > 0:25:59Now, best way to get juice from a lemon and extract all the juice

0:25:59 > 0:26:02is just put your spoon in there like that and go all the way round.

0:26:02 > 0:26:05Right, I'm just going to pass our lemon juice...

0:26:05 > 0:26:07Not everybody could do this, you know.

0:26:08 > 0:26:13- Not as well as that. - No, you're right.- Cornflour.

0:26:13 > 0:26:19- And that cornflour is basically just going to stabilise the mix.- Mm-hm.

0:26:19 > 0:26:20OK.

0:26:21 > 0:26:23So, it's a really easy recipe, really,

0:26:23 > 0:26:28because it's just everything's going into the one pan.

0:26:28 > 0:26:31Little tip - add the eggs at the end,

0:26:31 > 0:26:33because now we've got all the liquid in there

0:26:33 > 0:26:35and the eggs aren't going to be right at the bottom

0:26:35 > 0:26:36- where they could... - They could catch.

0:26:36 > 0:26:39..they could catch and scramble. Absolutely.

0:26:39 > 0:26:41So, we just take that out there now,

0:26:41 > 0:26:47just cook that gently until it goes nice and thick.

0:26:47 > 0:26:48Can you see how it's starting to...?

0:26:48 > 0:26:50You see that rich colour of that kind of curd?

0:26:50 > 0:26:53It's very clever, because you've got the lemon reacting with the butter.

0:26:53 > 0:26:55They're just made for each other.

0:26:55 > 0:26:58Right, now we're getting nice and thick, like that, OK?

0:26:58 > 0:27:01- Yeah.- OK. And just pour that in like that.

0:27:03 > 0:27:06- Oh, wow.- And that is it. - Just the smell of it coming across.

0:27:06 > 0:27:08- Absolutely. - The lemon and the butter.

0:27:08 > 0:27:10And it is literally as simple as that.

0:27:10 > 0:27:14And if you could now take that to the fridge for me

0:27:14 > 0:27:16and there should be...

0:27:16 > 0:27:18- one I made earlier. - One you prepared earlier.

0:27:18 > 0:27:20- One I prepared earlier! - Right, here we go.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22I'd better not drop it.

0:27:27 > 0:27:31- HE HUMS - Look at that.- What do you think?

0:27:31 > 0:27:34- Beautiful, no?- Yeah. - Yeah?- Looks lovely.

0:27:34 > 0:27:35Right.

0:27:36 > 0:27:38Make sure you've gone all the way through.

0:27:40 > 0:27:43- Ready?- Yeah.- OK.

0:27:45 > 0:27:48- There you have it. Go for it.- OK.- Get stuck in.

0:27:50 > 0:27:52I'm going to do it with my fingers. Ooh!

0:27:56 > 0:27:58- I absolutely adore things like that. - It's lovely.

0:27:58 > 0:28:02- It's the lemon and the butter, the eggs. Delicious.- Mm!

0:28:02 > 0:28:05Well, that's it from our celebration of food on the move

0:28:05 > 0:28:08with the royals both at home and overseas.

0:28:08 > 0:28:12Time for us to go on the move now. See you next time.