0:00:02 > 0:00:03The royal family are steeped in tradition,
0:00:03 > 0:00:07and throughout history the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.
0:00:07 > 0:00:08In celebration of royal food...
0:00:08 > 0:00:10We know it's the Queen's recipe
0:00:10 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15..from the present and the past...
0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20..we recreate old family favourites.
0:00:20 > 0:00:25Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
0:00:25 > 0:00:26What a mess!
0:00:26 > 0:00:29We sample royal eating al fresco...
0:00:29 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow!- That is what you want.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34..and revisit the most extravagant times.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37"Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon,
0:00:37 > 0:00:39"oysters and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce."
0:00:39 > 0:00:41Unbelievable!
0:00:41 > 0:00:42This is Royal Recipes.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51Hello, I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.
0:00:51 > 0:00:55This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes -
0:00:55 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.
0:00:59 > 0:01:03In the splendour of the gardens, halls and kitchen
0:01:03 > 0:01:05of this grandest of country houses,
0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here, with this gem -
0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook,
0:01:16 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the royal archive.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,
0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.
0:01:25 > 0:01:27Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls
0:01:27 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35And for the first time in over 100 years,
0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45This time, we cook the food members of the royal family choose
0:01:45 > 0:01:48when they're away from their public duties -
0:01:48 > 0:01:51the personal favourites they enjoy with family and friends,
0:01:51 > 0:01:53whether at a picnic or dining out.
0:01:56 > 0:01:58Today, in the Royal Recipes kitchen,
0:01:58 > 0:02:01chef Anna Haugh creates a dish that would have found favour
0:02:01 > 0:02:04with Edward VII and his mistress Lillie Langtry.
0:02:06 > 0:02:07I admire Edward VII.
0:02:07 > 0:02:12If I had this, all I'd want to do after this is go to sleep.
0:02:13 > 0:02:14Historian Dr Polly Russell
0:02:14 > 0:02:18visits the restaurants given the royal seal of approval.
0:02:18 > 0:02:20Princess Margaret so loved this pie
0:02:20 > 0:02:23that she would send her butler from Kensington Palace
0:02:23 > 0:02:25to come and get one.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31In the magnificence of the Victorian kitchen wing,
0:02:31 > 0:02:34we start with stout-hearted fare
0:02:34 > 0:02:38fit for the gourmand king Edward VII.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41Hello, I'm here in this grand kitchen of this stately home
0:02:41 > 0:02:45with Anna Haugh, who's executive chef of a top London restaurant.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- A bit different from this, I imagine?- Oh, absolutely.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50It's like a dungeon where I normally work!
0:02:50 > 0:02:52THEY LAUGH
0:02:52 > 0:02:54Today, we're going off duty with the royals,
0:02:54 > 0:02:57taking a look at some of the dishes they're served
0:02:57 > 0:02:59in some of their royal haunts.
0:02:59 > 0:03:01First stop, Rules Restaurant in Covent Garden, London.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04It's supposed to be London's oldest restaurant.
0:03:04 > 0:03:06Yeah, famous for its game.
0:03:06 > 0:03:11Famous for its game and famous for being the rendezvous for Edward VII
0:03:11 > 0:03:14when he was Prince of Wales, and his mistress, Lillie Langtry.
0:03:14 > 0:03:16Yes, naughty Eddie.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19With the banquette. Anyway, we won't go into that.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21One of the things he probably had, actually,
0:03:21 > 0:03:26- because it's famous for game, is woodcock on toast.- Yeah.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29Anyway, you're not going to do this kind of woodcock...
0:03:29 > 0:03:31- No.- You're going to do a completely different woodcock dish.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35Absolutely, I'm going to do a woodcock pudding.
0:03:35 > 0:03:37And I love recipes like this.
0:03:37 > 0:03:38When you say "woodcock pudding",
0:03:38 > 0:03:41this is woodcock pudding like a steak and kidney pudding,
0:03:41 > 0:03:42not like a dessert.
0:03:42 > 0:03:44Exactly, exactly.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47OK, so the first thing I'm going to start with is the suet pastry.
0:03:47 > 0:03:49You can make it hot, you can make it cold.
0:03:49 > 0:03:50Today I'm going to make it cold.
0:03:50 > 0:03:52So you just add your suet in, pinch of salt.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57And then you want to add your water in kind of gradually.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00It's roughly about 100 mls or so of water. It's a really simple mix.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04You just have flour, suet, pinch of salt and water.
0:04:04 > 0:04:06So what are you doing here?
0:04:06 > 0:04:08You're just mixing it or are you trying to crush it as well?
0:04:08 > 0:04:10No, I'm just bringing it all together.
0:04:10 > 0:04:14You see, if I add any more water, it would come together easier
0:04:14 > 0:04:15but it would be too wet.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- Can you dispose of that for me, please?- I can.
0:04:18 > 0:04:20I've lined the mould with just a little bit of butter
0:04:20 > 0:04:22- and then also...- You've got something on the bottom there.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25Yeah, a bit of greaseproof paper on the bottom just to make sure...
0:04:25 > 0:04:26Ah, is that so it doesn't stick?
0:04:26 > 0:04:28I don't think it would stick but I'm just being extra careful.
0:04:28 > 0:04:29Well, yours never stick.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32Just because you're around, Michael, I'm just being extra careful.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36I'm actually going to take a little bit of this off
0:04:36 > 0:04:38and this will go as the top.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41- Yeah.- Then on the line of it, just roll it out.
0:04:41 > 0:04:45It really has a feel of an Edwardian dish, doesn't it?
0:04:45 > 0:04:46Mm, it does, yeah.
0:04:46 > 0:04:48I'm just going to roll it on the rolling pin
0:04:48 > 0:04:50so that it doesn't break.
0:04:50 > 0:04:55- Yeah?- And just place it over the bowl and fit it in.
0:04:55 > 0:04:58It's a very forgiving pastry.
0:04:58 > 0:05:00Good squeeze around.
0:05:00 > 0:05:04So I'll roll the lid before I go to finish the mix.
0:05:04 > 0:05:07OK, so this is going to be the top of the thing.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09You're going to pop this on here
0:05:09 > 0:05:11once you've put the contents of the pie in there.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14Exactly. You want to have a lot of time to do this.
0:05:14 > 0:05:15So what are you going to put in here?
0:05:15 > 0:05:20OK, so now we're just going to add in the raw chopped woodcock.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- Raw?- Yeah, raw now because you're going to cook this pie
0:05:23 > 0:05:26for quite a few hours. And a bit of parsley.
0:05:26 > 0:05:30In here I've sweated down some mushrooms with some onions
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- and I've got a bit of demi-glace in there.- Demi-glace?
0:05:33 > 0:05:35Yeah, it's a bit of a fancy word
0:05:35 > 0:05:38- for meat stock that has been reduced down.- Right.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40It has some red wine in it
0:05:40 > 0:05:43and a little drop of Madeira has gone into our one as well.
0:05:43 > 0:05:46So that's ready to go inside the centre.
0:05:46 > 0:05:48- That's great, a demi-glace.- Yeah. - Poncey, isn't it?
0:05:48 > 0:05:51- Doesn't that look beautiful? - It does.- Just look at it.
0:05:51 > 0:05:53Yeah. Put that on the top.
0:05:53 > 0:05:54Yeah, I'm going to squeeze it down.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57Our forgiving pastry is going to let me away with blue murder.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00This is brilliant because it barely even shrinks at all.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03It will shrink a very small amount,
0:06:03 > 0:06:05but you'll see when I open up my pie later on.
0:06:05 > 0:06:09So you just want to clean it up, cut around the edge.
0:06:09 > 0:06:10Now...
0:06:12 > 0:06:14Then your tinfoil goes on top.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17Buttered tinfoil so it doesn't stick to your pie
0:06:17 > 0:06:20and you just make sure that your foil is nice and tight
0:06:20 > 0:06:22because you're going to steam this.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Yep. Steam it?- It's important that you actually don't let the steam in,
0:06:25 > 0:06:27it's more that the steam is cooking it from the outside.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29- A steamed suet pudding.- Yes.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32This is straight out of the past, this, isn't it?
0:06:32 > 0:06:38So here is one that's been simmering away now for the past few hours.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40- How many hours?- Three.
0:06:40 > 0:06:42- Three hours?- Three hours.
0:06:42 > 0:06:44This isn't fast food we're talking about, is it?
0:06:44 > 0:06:46Now, Michael, my hands aren't asbestos
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- so you're going to have to move. - Oh, sorry, sorry!- Thank you.- OK.
0:06:51 > 0:06:52I'm so excited. I love this!
0:06:52 > 0:06:54I love this so much!
0:06:54 > 0:06:56Like, genuinely, I love this.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59Do you like woodcock itself or is it just the pudding that excites you?
0:06:59 > 0:07:01Game in general just excites me.
0:07:01 > 0:07:02OK, oh, look at that!
0:07:02 > 0:07:04Look at that!
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- Isn't that beautiful?! - Yes, yes.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09That's absolutely stunning.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11Just going to run a knife along the edge,
0:07:11 > 0:07:15just to make sure that when I flip this over
0:07:15 > 0:07:18that it doesn't stay stuck.
0:07:19 > 0:07:21Oh, but that just smells AMAZING!
0:07:21 > 0:07:23- It does, doesn't it? - It smells amazing.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28- Now, this is a big moment. - This is a big moment.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30You're just going to sort of...boomph!
0:07:30 > 0:07:34Pretty much, so let's hope I don't mess it up. OK...
0:07:34 > 0:07:35Oh!
0:07:38 > 0:07:39- Very deft.- Yes, well,
0:07:39 > 0:07:42the second thing I'm hoping for is that it releases.
0:07:42 > 0:07:43Ah, right.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47Oh-ho-ho-ho!
0:07:47 > 0:07:48Oh, I say!
0:07:48 > 0:07:51Oh, the smell of that is just...
0:07:51 > 0:07:53- Let's have a sniff. - It's amazing.
0:07:53 > 0:07:55Oh, yes! It's...
0:07:56 > 0:07:58..warm and... Oh, yeah.
0:07:58 > 0:08:00So the last thing we're going to add...
0:08:00 > 0:08:03The two things we're going to add is a bit more demi-glace,
0:08:03 > 0:08:05- or a bit more gravy.- Demi-glace?
0:08:05 > 0:08:06Oh, is that gravy?
0:08:06 > 0:08:08Yes, demi-glace is posh gravy.
0:08:09 > 0:08:14And then to really make it luxurious and special,
0:08:14 > 0:08:16I'm going to put some truffle on top.
0:08:16 > 0:08:18Oh!
0:08:18 > 0:08:19Just for you. It's just for you.
0:08:19 > 0:08:23OK. This is aroma, pure aroma.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31So the joy of truffle is the speckles going everywhere.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34That, to me, is just beautiful.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37So there you have it,
0:08:37 > 0:08:39steamed woodcock pudding with demi-glace and truffle.
0:08:39 > 0:08:40Wow!
0:08:40 > 0:08:42OK, let's crack this...
0:08:42 > 0:08:45This is really hearty stuff, isn't it?
0:08:45 > 0:08:46Oh, my goodness!
0:08:46 > 0:08:49- Look at that! - That is so delicious!
0:08:49 > 0:08:52If I do say so myself!
0:08:52 > 0:08:53OK, come on, come on.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- First I'm going to try the filling. - OK, I'll do that, too.
0:08:58 > 0:08:59Mm!
0:09:00 > 0:09:02I'm not sure I've had woodcock before.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06Tell me what you think.
0:09:06 > 0:09:08Mm!
0:09:08 > 0:09:10This is lovely but I admire Edward VII.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14If I had this, all I'd want to do after this -
0:09:14 > 0:09:17finish the glass of port, go to sleep.
0:09:17 > 0:09:18ANNA LAUGHS
0:09:21 > 0:09:23The Prince of Wales was breaking with royal tradition
0:09:23 > 0:09:26when he dined out in a restaurant, but I can see why.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35Decades after Edward VII's first forays,
0:09:35 > 0:09:39younger royals started dining out as regulars on the restaurant scene.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43Historian Dr Polly Russell explorers the range of royal tastes.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47Princes William and Harry are as at home in a burger bar
0:09:47 > 0:09:48as a royal banquet.
0:09:48 > 0:09:50Their mother, Princess Diana,
0:09:50 > 0:09:54was a regular at fashionable eateries like San Lorenzo,
0:09:54 > 0:09:57having her own table there in the 1980s.
0:09:57 > 0:09:59But the idea of princes or princesses
0:09:59 > 0:10:03going out to dine at a restaurant was once unthinkable.
0:10:05 > 0:10:09It wasn't until the 1930s that a restaurant actually reserved a table
0:10:09 > 0:10:12for an HRH, and that's where I'm going now.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16Opened in 1929, Quaglino's quickly became the restaurant
0:10:16 > 0:10:17for bright young things.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21Until this time, fine dining had been stuffy,
0:10:21 > 0:10:22but here the dress code was relaxed,
0:10:22 > 0:10:26with cocktails flowing and a heaving dance floor.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30By 1935, it had even tempted notorious party boy
0:10:30 > 0:10:32the future Edward VIII.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35- Hi.- So nice to meet you. Thanks so much for having me.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37This is the most amazing place.
0:10:37 > 0:10:38Thank you.
0:10:38 > 0:10:42Current head chef James Hume has been overseeing
0:10:42 > 0:10:43the most recent refurbishment.
0:10:43 > 0:10:45Prince Harry was at the launch party.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51There is a sort of history of royals coming to Quaglino's, isn't there?
0:10:51 > 0:10:54Yeah, it goes back to the '30s when the old Prince of Wales came in.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56- He had his own room. - He had his own room?
0:10:56 > 0:10:59Yeah, there's a private dining room just behind you.
0:10:59 > 0:11:01We still call it "The Prince of Wales" to this day.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04Two decades later, following the royal abdication
0:11:04 > 0:11:06and post-war depression,
0:11:06 > 0:11:10a new set of young royals emerged and started to hit the town again.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13By the 1950s,
0:11:13 > 0:11:15the Princess Margaret was ready to party again
0:11:15 > 0:11:17and this is where she came.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20She used to have a cornered-off table called the Royal Enclosure.
0:11:20 > 0:11:21It was called the Royal Enclosure?
0:11:21 > 0:11:23Yeah, just for her, every night reserved.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26So she could be seen and see everyone else.
0:11:26 > 0:11:28By the 1960s, however,
0:11:28 > 0:11:31Princess Margaret sought out a different dining experience.
0:11:32 > 0:11:34Around the corner from Kensington Palace,
0:11:34 > 0:11:37this hideaway became a favourite for her and her husband,
0:11:37 > 0:11:39Anthony Armstrong-Jones.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44In 1965, when Princess Margaret and her husband used to come here
0:11:44 > 0:11:47to eat, these were her favourite booths to sit in.
0:11:47 > 0:11:51It's a space that's about intimacy, relaxing and feeling comfortable.
0:11:51 > 0:11:54That must have been the most wonderful thing
0:11:54 > 0:11:56if you were Princess Margaret.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59This new relaxed style of dining in the 1960s was a direct contrast
0:11:59 > 0:12:03to the traditional formality of eating out.
0:12:03 > 0:12:06To me, that really speaks of a moment in Britain
0:12:06 > 0:12:11where we are starting to question the sort of hierarchies and rules
0:12:11 > 0:12:13and that plays out in terms of food.
0:12:13 > 0:12:17The restaurant was originally named Nan's Kitchen in the 1960s,
0:12:17 > 0:12:19serving home-cooked food.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23It's said that their chicken pie was Princess Margaret's favourite
0:12:23 > 0:12:27and she enjoyed it so often that they changed the eaterie's name
0:12:27 > 0:12:29to Maggie Jones, in her honour.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33In the 1960s and the 1970s, Princess Margaret so loved this pie
0:12:33 > 0:12:37that she would send her butler from Kensington Palace
0:12:37 > 0:12:39to come and get one to eat at home.
0:12:39 > 0:12:42And I've heard that some members of the royal family
0:12:42 > 0:12:45still like to come here.
0:12:50 > 0:12:52Glamorous royal haunts in fashionable London
0:12:52 > 0:12:53but for many of the royals,
0:12:53 > 0:12:56their favourite haunts have been as far away from London
0:12:56 > 0:12:58as you can possibly get.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02Yeah, and ever since Queen Victoria they've been mad about Scotland.
0:13:02 > 0:13:04Yeah, the late Queen Mother in particular.
0:13:04 > 0:13:08She had that Castle of Mey right up in the north of Scotland.
0:13:08 > 0:13:10Any further and you're in the Shetland Islands!
0:13:11 > 0:13:14The Castle of Mey's got its own cookbook
0:13:14 > 0:13:16with a foreword by Prince Charles,
0:13:16 > 0:13:19which gives you a bit of an insight into the way of life up there.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23Yeah, and today I'm going to prepare a Queen Mother's favourite -
0:13:23 > 0:13:25jam puffs - from that cookery book.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28Also, it was one of my favourites when I was a little girl.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30So I'm going to show you how to make them today.
0:13:30 > 0:13:32OK. These are things you can gobble.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34Yes, yes, and it's super easy.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37All you need is some puff pastry.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40This shop-bought, roll-out puff pastry is perfectly fine.
0:13:41 > 0:13:42You just want to cut out...
0:13:44 > 0:13:47..as many discs as you feel your belly can take.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:13:49 > 0:13:53But I think recipes like this are so special because you feel like you
0:13:53 > 0:13:56have a bit of insight into the kind of more normal or familiar side
0:13:56 > 0:13:59of the royal family.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01- So we have all our discs here now. - Very neat.
0:14:01 > 0:14:05And we're going to make six of the mincemeat and six of the jam.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07So would you mind helping me with that?
0:14:07 > 0:14:09Would you do the jam ones and I'll do the mincemeat ones?
0:14:09 > 0:14:11- Absolutely.- OK, so...
0:14:11 > 0:14:12So what jam is this?
0:14:12 > 0:14:13This is apricot jam.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16So on one side you just want to give a bit like...
0:14:16 > 0:14:19Like a small teaspoon of jam.
0:14:19 > 0:14:21- Now, I will be judging you on this. - I know, I know.
0:14:21 > 0:14:23So if it's wrong, you'll be tidying up.
0:14:23 > 0:14:25You can do the washing up afterwards.
0:14:25 > 0:14:26You've got the easier one.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29It's difficult to get the jam off the spoon, isn't it?
0:14:29 > 0:14:31Yep. So try to keep it on one half, one side.
0:14:31 > 0:14:32All on one side? OK.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35Well, you're going to fold it over, of course, aren't you?
0:14:35 > 0:14:38Exactly, and then we're going to put the egg wash on the other side.
0:14:38 > 0:14:40Here we go. Oh, I got a lot on that one.
0:14:40 > 0:14:42Yeah. Now, you're very slow.
0:14:42 > 0:14:44I'm streets ahead of you. I'm very fast so I'm just going to go ahead
0:14:44 > 0:14:46- with my egg wash.- OK.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49They love jam, the royals, don't they?
0:14:49 > 0:14:51Apparently at Buckingham Palace every Sunday
0:14:51 > 0:14:54they used to have something called jam pennies,
0:14:54 > 0:14:58which was actually just a jam sandwich cut into penny-shaped sizes
0:14:58 > 0:15:01by a cake cutter. I think it was mainly for the kids.
0:15:01 > 0:15:04- Yeah, I'm going to say, I would have loved that as a kid.- Yeah.
0:15:04 > 0:15:08- So you need to egg-wash your... - OK.- Come on, chop chop, let's go.
0:15:08 > 0:15:09All right. All right, chef.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11I'm going to start folding as you're doing it.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13- Oh, I'm making a mess of that. - And give it a good squeeze.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16Actually, I think I've got a rare talent for this sort of thing.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19I think you do not, but let's keep going!
0:15:19 > 0:15:20I think you've just got high standards.
0:15:20 > 0:15:23You can't recognise potential when you see it staring you in the face!
0:15:23 > 0:15:26Ha-ha! OK, so when you've egg-washed them,
0:15:26 > 0:15:30you want to fold them over and give them a really good squeeze,
0:15:30 > 0:15:32so you're kind of squeezing out the air of them
0:15:32 > 0:15:35and sealing it really, really well.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38Like a little fruit pasty, if you know what I mean?
0:15:38 > 0:15:40There's nothing to this cooking lark, is there?
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- No, it's easy-peasy, pie-squeezy. - Turn it over like that?- Yeah.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- Then what do you do?- You're trying to tuck in the filling,
0:15:46 > 0:15:48- so that you've just got the pastry on the outside.- OK.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52Ah, well, I shouldn't have been so greedy.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54The jam's coming out, look.
0:15:54 > 0:15:55ANNA LAUGHS
0:15:56 > 0:15:58Might have been a little bit too much jam in that!
0:15:58 > 0:16:00In all of them, yeah!
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- That's greed for you. It's a man thing.- Yeah.
0:16:03 > 0:16:04Here we go.
0:16:04 > 0:16:06Well, actually, the fun bit happens next.
0:16:06 > 0:16:10So now we're going to cut them out. This bit I actually quite like.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14As a little kid, this was definitely a side of it that I loved.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17Yeah, neatness wasn't the Queen Mother's thing, really,
0:16:17 > 0:16:19because they had jam puffs
0:16:19 > 0:16:23but I think the Queen Mother had a bit of a wicked sense of humour.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25Rather liked them as kind of...
0:16:27 > 0:16:28..booby traps for her guests.
0:16:28 > 0:16:30- Oh, dear!- I'll tell you more about it.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33So you're not going to tell me beforehand, you're going to booby-trap me?!
0:16:33 > 0:16:35Yeah, maybe I'm...
0:16:35 > 0:16:37I'm going to do what the Queen Mother did to her guests.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- Is that revenge for me getting you to help me to bake?- Exactly.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42They go straight into the oven just like this.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- We don't egg-wash the top of them. - No? Why's that?
0:16:45 > 0:16:48When we take them out we're going to dust them with icing sugar
0:16:48 > 0:16:52and then a bit of magic happens. You put them underneath a grill
0:16:52 > 0:16:55and they turn into this beautiful caramel mirror on top.
0:16:55 > 0:16:57- Wow.- It's lovely, yeah.
0:16:57 > 0:16:59I might leave these ones for later.
0:16:59 > 0:17:00Yeah. Yeah, absolutely.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03I'm going to put these straight into the oven
0:17:03 > 0:17:06for about 10 minutes at 180 degrees.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09Now, these ones are already cooked.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12But they're not finished, there's still one more stage to go.
0:17:12 > 0:17:15So if you just pass me the icing sugar there, please.
0:17:15 > 0:17:16- There we go.- And the sieve.
0:17:16 > 0:17:21- Yeah.- So all we're going to do is dust these with icing sugar on top
0:17:21 > 0:17:23and then we're going to grill it.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25We're going to grill it underneath...
0:17:25 > 0:17:28Just your normal grill but with the door open.
0:17:28 > 0:17:30So I'm going to take this over to the oven.
0:17:30 > 0:17:31Ah!
0:17:31 > 0:17:33Come back soon.
0:17:38 > 0:17:39How's it going, Anna?
0:17:41 > 0:17:42They're ready!
0:17:44 > 0:17:45Oh!
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- Check these puppies out!- Wow!
0:17:49 > 0:17:54Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
0:17:54 > 0:17:58She'd set off on a picnic with her guests...
0:17:58 > 0:18:00- And they loved a picnic, the royals. - They loved a picnic.
0:18:00 > 0:18:02And they'd sit down and these would be served
0:18:02 > 0:18:04and the Queen Mother would say,
0:18:04 > 0:18:08"There's a traditional way to eat these things."
0:18:08 > 0:18:09You've got to bite the top off...
0:18:11 > 0:18:13Mm! Really nice, by the way.
0:18:14 > 0:18:19And you have to, traditionally, fill it up with cream.
0:18:19 > 0:18:21Oh, my God! What a mess!
0:18:21 > 0:18:23Wait a minute. Exactly.
0:18:23 > 0:18:25Fill it up with cream and then eat it.
0:18:25 > 0:18:29Now, there's no tradition whatsoever of doing this
0:18:29 > 0:18:31but the end result is... Watch...
0:18:36 > 0:18:39You can't do it without making a complete mess.
0:18:39 > 0:18:40Yeah!
0:18:40 > 0:18:42- Are you going to have one?- Yeah, I'm going to have a go.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44Have one of my better ones.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46There's a tradition here, Anna.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49You've got to fill this up with cream.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- Mm!- There you go. I just want to see you make a mess of yourself.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55I'm not going to make a mess. I'm not going to make a mess.
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- I'm going to eat like a pro. - Go on, go on! Go on!
0:19:00 > 0:19:06Mm! I don't care that I made a mess. those are really good.
0:19:06 > 0:19:07I might have another one.
0:19:07 > 0:19:12A passion for jam puffs isn't the only royal favourite
0:19:12 > 0:19:13of the late Queen Mother.
0:19:13 > 0:19:15She also championed a rich egg and prawn dish
0:19:15 > 0:19:18created at another Scottish haunt.
0:19:20 > 0:19:24Drumkilbo House in Perthshire is just six miles
0:19:24 > 0:19:27from the Queen Mother's childhood home of Glamis Castle.
0:19:27 > 0:19:29Once owned by her nephew,
0:19:29 > 0:19:33Drumkilbo was once often visited by the royal family.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36It was here that the Queen Mother first tasted
0:19:36 > 0:19:40their signature seafood delicacy, Eggs Drumkilbo.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43Anna's here to find out the recipe's origins
0:19:43 > 0:19:45from the Lord of the Manor, Geoffrey Bunting.
0:19:46 > 0:19:48Welcome to Drumkilbo.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50- Hi.- I'm Geoffrey.
0:19:50 > 0:19:52This is the drawing room.
0:19:52 > 0:19:57Wow! My goodness, this place is fabulous.
0:19:57 > 0:20:03This house evolved out of a medieval fortification
0:20:03 > 0:20:06which belonged to the great Robert the Bruce.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09So, Geoffrey, tell me - how did Eggs Drumkilbo come about?
0:20:09 > 0:20:15There was a royal party staying here in my predecessor's time
0:20:15 > 0:20:20and one member of the party was very late in arriving
0:20:20 > 0:20:24and they realised would not be here in time for dinner.
0:20:24 > 0:20:31And the chef, Gladys Davidson, improvised a cold dish to leave out
0:20:31 > 0:20:34for the final member of the party
0:20:34 > 0:20:38and that was the origin of Oeufs Drumkilbo,
0:20:38 > 0:20:42which was then picked up and used at later royal occasions.
0:20:43 > 0:20:45Waiting in the Drumkilbo House kitchen
0:20:45 > 0:20:51where this royal favourite was created is chef Mark Bull.
0:20:51 > 0:20:55It's a lovely dish. Very simple to make at home.
0:20:55 > 0:20:57We'll put some of the harder ingredients in first.
0:20:57 > 0:20:58The lobster...
0:20:59 > 0:21:02..then we put in our prawns.
0:21:02 > 0:21:07A bit of tomato puree, a small amount of Tabasco...
0:21:08 > 0:21:10The anchovy essence.
0:21:10 > 0:21:13I love anchovies. Get them in there.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17Give this a little bit of a mix around just now.
0:21:17 > 0:21:20You want everything... By the time you put the mayonnaise in,
0:21:20 > 0:21:23you want it all evenly mixed and not any lumps, as such.
0:21:23 > 0:21:25OK, so, we put the tomato in here now.
0:21:25 > 0:21:26Mm-hm.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28A lot of tomato goes in here.
0:21:28 > 0:21:29We come to the mayonnaise.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33That's a lot of mayonnaise.
0:21:33 > 0:21:35You don't want it to be pure fish that you're eating.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37It's like an upmarket prawn cocktail.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41So it does have to have its proper amounts of mayonnaise and...
0:21:41 > 0:21:44So, we'll mix this very lightly.
0:21:45 > 0:21:50You don't want to...mush up anything at all in here.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53Now, the last thing we put in, the eggs.
0:21:58 > 0:21:59Have a taste.
0:21:59 > 0:22:00Ah!
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- Mm! Oh, my God!- Good?
0:22:04 > 0:22:06Mm!
0:22:06 > 0:22:07So many different flavours.
0:22:07 > 0:22:08Mm!
0:22:08 > 0:22:09Next stage...
0:22:11 > 0:22:13I think I can help you with this.
0:22:13 > 0:22:14Yeah, you can. That's good.
0:22:14 > 0:22:15Of course, yeah.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19We put little bit of garnish on them.
0:22:19 > 0:22:21Just a little piece of fancy tomato.
0:22:21 > 0:22:24Easy to do, put a little bit of slice through it.
0:22:24 > 0:22:26- I always like dill. - I love a bit of dill.
0:22:26 > 0:22:31I like dill with any kind of fish. It's nice and soft, plenty flavour.
0:22:31 > 0:22:33Am I eating a dish fit for a queen?
0:22:33 > 0:22:37Well, you are. Now some people will change it a little bit
0:22:37 > 0:22:39but this is the original recipe.
0:22:41 > 0:22:44Pudding time now. Time to wind back the clock.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48Time to open the recipe book of our kitchen maid Mildred Nicholls,
0:22:48 > 0:22:50who, remember, worked in Buckingham Palace
0:22:50 > 0:22:52in the early years of the 1900s,
0:22:52 > 0:22:54and a wonderful pudding.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57Look, Anna - mille feuilles Mont Blanc.
0:22:57 > 0:22:59Are you going to do this, the very same recipe?
0:22:59 > 0:23:01I'm going to do it exactly the same as she did.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03- As Mildred did it 110 years ago? - Absolutely.
0:23:03 > 0:23:04What do you start with?
0:23:04 > 0:23:07OK, so start with our puff pastry.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09You need to cut out five disks.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12You need two cutters, one needs to be your large one
0:23:12 > 0:23:14and then a smaller one to cut out the centres.
0:23:14 > 0:23:16Now, this is the puff pastry, the thousand leaves
0:23:16 > 0:23:19Escoffier thing. In the school tuck shop, it was called a cream slice.
0:23:19 > 0:23:21- Oh, right. This is a very posh... - Or vanilla slice.
0:23:21 > 0:23:23This is a posh cream slice.
0:23:23 > 0:23:25OK. So we're going to...
0:23:25 > 0:23:26These have been baked in the oven
0:23:26 > 0:23:29at about 180 degrees for about 20 minutes.
0:23:29 > 0:23:33So we're going to stick these discs of puff pastry together
0:23:33 > 0:23:36with an apricot jam. So I'm going to use a brush for this.
0:23:36 > 0:23:38We brush it all around.
0:23:38 > 0:23:41- You're going to make a tower of this stuff, are you?- That's right, yes.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43And use apricot jam as the glue?
0:23:43 > 0:23:45That's right, exactly.
0:23:45 > 0:23:47So it gives a bit of sweetness to it and, just like you say,
0:23:47 > 0:23:50it's like a glue. So we place it on top.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55You know I love building things. This looks like fun.
0:23:55 > 0:23:57And this will really make it stick, will it?
0:23:57 > 0:23:59Yes, this will make it stick because
0:23:59 > 0:24:03the jam has been warmed up so to make it more liquid. So then it is,
0:24:03 > 0:24:06it's like a little sweet glue holding it all together.
0:24:06 > 0:24:07It's quite a tower, isn't it?
0:24:07 > 0:24:11It is. Then we're going to fill the centre with some cream
0:24:11 > 0:24:13and some chestnut puree.
0:24:13 > 0:24:17So at the end we'll finish it as well with the marron glace.
0:24:17 > 0:24:19- You're putting some on the top as well?- Yeah.
0:24:19 > 0:24:22Because that's the top of your stack.
0:24:22 > 0:24:24Yeah, and I think it needs the sweetness as well, yeah.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27So tell me about the other ingredients you've got there.
0:24:27 > 0:24:30OK, so, you have your whipped cream,
0:24:30 > 0:24:34you've got your chestnut puree and you've got your marron glace.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36Now, marron glace is what?
0:24:36 > 0:24:38A crystalline horse...
0:24:38 > 0:24:40Not horse chestnut, chestnut.
0:24:40 > 0:24:42Yes, that's right. A very...
0:24:42 > 0:24:44- The French love them, don't they? - Yeah, they do love them.
0:24:44 > 0:24:46OK, so let's start with this.
0:24:46 > 0:24:48I'm going to start with the puree in the centre.
0:24:48 > 0:24:50- A spoonful...- So is that a pureed version...?
0:24:50 > 0:24:52Exactly. That's exactly it.
0:24:52 > 0:24:54It's a pureed... And you can buy chestnut puree,
0:24:54 > 0:24:55you don't have to make it yourself.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58OK. I'm going to put a little bit of cream in the centre.
0:24:58 > 0:25:00Oh, so you're doing this...
0:25:00 > 0:25:03So you want to fill the centre. It's like a surprise inside it,
0:25:03 > 0:25:06so nobody knows that that's there until you cut into it.
0:25:06 > 0:25:08So another big spoon of that.
0:25:08 > 0:25:11So you're doing a layer each of these as well?
0:25:11 > 0:25:13Yeah. The whole thing is in layers
0:25:13 > 0:25:15- but this is cream and the pureed chestnut?- Yeah.
0:25:17 > 0:25:18It's quite a unique cake.
0:25:18 > 0:25:21I've never seen anything like this before.
0:25:21 > 0:25:23But then it's a combination of two things, isn't it?
0:25:23 > 0:25:25I mean, the mille feuilles is one thing
0:25:25 > 0:25:28and Mont Blanc, that is a cake all to itself, isn't it?
0:25:28 > 0:25:31You're so knowledgeable. Honestly, I think you're teaching me!
0:25:31 > 0:25:34You know how it is. Years of experience!
0:25:34 > 0:25:38But that's right, isn't it? Mont Blanc is a cake in and of itself?
0:25:38 > 0:25:40With chestnuts. Oh, right.
0:25:40 > 0:25:44And presumably it's got cream on the top like the snow on the mountain?
0:25:44 > 0:25:45Yeah. OK, so...
0:25:45 > 0:25:47Oh, my God!
0:25:47 > 0:25:48So, plenty of cream on top.
0:25:50 > 0:25:51- OK.- Yeah!
0:25:51 > 0:25:54So the whole idea is to pile it up on top
0:25:54 > 0:25:57then gently nudge it around the sides.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59That's why you want it
0:25:59 > 0:26:01kind of top-heavy, so it can kind of drip down.
0:26:01 > 0:26:03So you're putting pistachios on the top.
0:26:03 > 0:26:06Yeah, I'm going to put pistachios on the top, and quite generous.
0:26:06 > 0:26:08Give it a sprinkle.
0:26:08 > 0:26:10Why? Well, it looks nice but...
0:26:10 > 0:26:11it gives it a crunchy top to it?
0:26:11 > 0:26:13It a lovely crunchy top
0:26:13 > 0:26:16and a lovely flavour off your pistachios as well.
0:26:16 > 0:26:18- So, now I'm going to...- Whoa!
0:26:18 > 0:26:21I know, actually, it's pretty heavy!
0:26:21 > 0:26:23- Oh...- This is the bit...
0:26:23 > 0:26:25Don't drop, don't drop!
0:26:25 > 0:26:26Well done.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29I was never going to drop it.
0:26:29 > 0:26:32OK, so now I'm going to bring this to here.
0:26:32 > 0:26:33I think in Mildred's recipe
0:26:33 > 0:26:36she does mention placing the marron glace around...
0:26:36 > 0:26:38- On the side?- Yeah.
0:26:38 > 0:26:40I have a feeling this is partly her creation.
0:26:40 > 0:26:43I don't know why I think that but, just reading the recipe,
0:26:43 > 0:26:45I feel like there's an interpretation from her.
0:26:45 > 0:26:46She made it her own?
0:26:46 > 0:26:49Well, perhaps. I'm sure there would have been opportunities for them...
0:26:49 > 0:26:51To experiment?
0:26:51 > 0:26:52Yeah, there must have been.
0:26:52 > 0:26:56Well, they must have spent long, long hours in the kitchens.
0:26:56 > 0:26:58Also, I think Mildred did mention the idea that
0:26:58 > 0:27:01she just piped a little bit of cream in between each one.
0:27:01 > 0:27:03This is decoration, isn't it?
0:27:03 > 0:27:05OK, shall I put that over here? There we go.
0:27:05 > 0:27:07So there we have it - mille feuilles Mont Blanc.
0:27:07 > 0:27:10- Tricky thing to cut, I would imagine.- Yes.
0:27:10 > 0:27:11But don't let that put you off.
0:27:11 > 0:27:14It's not going to put me off because you're going to cut it!
0:27:17 > 0:27:20OK. Here we go. Righto.
0:27:20 > 0:27:22Let's put that there.
0:27:24 > 0:27:27OK. Oh, yes.
0:27:27 > 0:27:28Yes, yes, yes. It's going through.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31Oh! OK.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34I don't want to wreck it.
0:27:34 > 0:27:35There we go.
0:27:36 > 0:27:39- There! - That's not bad.- That's not bad!
0:27:39 > 0:27:42Mm! Oh, there we go.
0:27:47 > 0:27:50That wasn't exactly a big bite. What's it like?
0:27:50 > 0:27:53I'm being careful. It's delicious.
0:27:53 > 0:27:54- Is it?- Mm!- OK.
0:27:57 > 0:28:02Mm! No, I like it and I'm going to finish it off.
0:28:02 > 0:28:06It's going to take me a bit of time, and we have to go, I'm afraid.
0:28:06 > 0:28:10That's it from the celebrations of delicious
0:28:10 > 0:28:13and sometimes rather wicked royal haunts.
0:28:13 > 0:28:14See you next time.