0:00:02 > 0:00:04The Royal family are steeped in tradition and, throughout history,
0:00:04 > 0:00:07the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09In celebration of royal food...
0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe
0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.
0:00:13 > 0:00:14..from the present and the past...
0:00:14 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20..we recreate old family favourites.
0:00:20 > 0:00:25Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
0:00:25 > 0:00:26What a mess.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29We sample Royal eating alfresco...
0:00:29 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow!- THAT is what you want.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34..and revisit the most extravagant times.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters, and turbot,
0:00:38 > 0:00:39dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.
0:00:39 > 0:00:41Unbelievable!
0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51Hello, I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.
0:00:51 > 0:00:55This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes,
0:00:55 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.
0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,
0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,
0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here, with this gem,
0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook -
0:01:16 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal archive.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,
0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,
0:01:28 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35And for the first time in over 100 years,
0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.
0:01:41 > 0:01:45This time, we're cooking food served to celebrate a jubilee.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49Queen Elizabeth II, Britain's longest reigning monarch,
0:01:49 > 0:01:51knows more than most about how to put on a great show
0:01:51 > 0:01:54for these most special of royal anniversaries.
0:01:55 > 0:01:57Today, in the Royal Recipes kitchen,
0:01:57 > 0:02:02chef Anna Haugh tries some unusual 19th-century ingredients...
0:02:02 > 0:02:04And now, our final ingredient, cockscomb.
0:02:04 > 0:02:05MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:02:05 > 0:02:08- What, the bit off its head?- Yeah. - Aren't they normally red?
0:02:08 > 0:02:13..as she prepares Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee dish.
0:02:13 > 0:02:15No, you don't like it!
0:02:16 > 0:02:19Historian Polly Russell discovers how Windsor revived
0:02:19 > 0:02:22the Royal Golden Jubilee ox roast.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24I wrote to the Queen and then we received a letter back...
0:02:24 > 0:02:26From Buckingham Palace?
0:02:26 > 0:02:27..from Buckingham Palace.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31And the Queen graciously agreeing to donating an ox for us.
0:02:31 > 0:02:32Sprinkle 'em over.
0:02:32 > 0:02:36And Paul Ainsworth gets creative with a British classic to honour
0:02:36 > 0:02:39the Queen's historic reign.
0:02:39 > 0:02:41And I hope you approve, ma'am.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48In the kitchen wing of this stately home,
0:02:48 > 0:02:50we start with the exquisite dishes
0:02:50 > 0:02:52created for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56Hello, and here we are in the grand kitchen,
0:02:56 > 0:02:58with top London chef Anna Haugh.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01There is something special, isn't there,
0:03:01 > 0:03:05about living in the reign of Britain's longest-serving monarch?
0:03:05 > 0:03:08Oh, I love a good royal party!
0:03:08 > 0:03:11And this is the menu for her luncheon,
0:03:11 > 0:03:14Diamond Jubilee luncheon, in 2012.
0:03:14 > 0:03:17Just three courses, unlike the eight or nine
0:03:17 > 0:03:19her great-grandfather would have had.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21And you're going to do the middle one.
0:03:21 > 0:03:22- That's right.- The main course.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26That's right. I'm going to do roast saddle of Welsh lamb with braised shoulder.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- What do you do first?- OK. So, the first thing I have in my pan
0:03:29 > 0:03:32here is some chopped up celery,
0:03:32 > 0:03:36onions, carrot, and a little sneaky star anise.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40- Star anise.- So, I'm going to put a little bit more oil in here
0:03:40 > 0:03:43and then I'm going to add my lamb shoulder.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45And I think what I like so much about this dish
0:03:45 > 0:03:48is that it's not just focusing on the prime cut,
0:03:48 > 0:03:50it's also giving you the kind of secondary cuts as well.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53Do you get more flavour out of the shoulder of lamb than you would...?
0:03:53 > 0:03:55Ah, absolutely.
0:03:55 > 0:03:58So I'm going to add tomato paste in here as well.
0:03:58 > 0:04:01I'm going to give my rosemary a chop while I let that kind of caramelise up a little bit.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- So, rosemary and lamb.- Yeah.
0:04:04 > 0:04:07I think everybody in the universe knows that these two go very well together.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09This is amazing, isn't it,
0:04:09 > 0:04:11because this is an absolute celebration,
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- as a lot of these royal meals are, of Britishness?- Yes.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17You know, Welsh Cambrian Mountain lamb,
0:04:17 > 0:04:21marinated Uist island salmon with Lyme Bay crab.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23It's all...
0:04:23 > 0:04:25It's all a celebration of British,
0:04:25 > 0:04:28whereas two, three generations ago, we were all pretending to be French!
0:04:28 > 0:04:31- Absolutely. So, I'm going to add my white wine in now...- Yeah.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36And there's a lovely kind of acidity that you get from white wine.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38And now we're going to put in our stock.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- And last but certainly not least... - Your rosemary.
0:04:44 > 0:04:47Rosemary. So, I'm going to pop a lid on this...
0:04:47 > 0:04:52- Mm-hm.- ..and we'd cook that for about maybe two hours.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56Let that kind of simmer away, like a light bubble, not a heavy boil.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59And it should look like this.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03Oh-ho-ho! Look at the steam coming out.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05Yeah. Terrific.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07I'll get out of your way.
0:05:07 > 0:05:11Our next stage is searing off our saddle of lamb.
0:05:11 > 0:05:13So, I'm going to oil it and season it.
0:05:13 > 0:05:18So, what's happening here is you've got the shoulder for the flavour...
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- Yes.- And you've got this for the texture?
0:05:20 > 0:05:22Yeah. Exactly.
0:05:22 > 0:05:24So I'm going to put a little bit of oil in my pan.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- OK.- The key is when you're cooking is control.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29Controlling your heat. You need a lovely, smoking hot pan.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32So hot that when I'm at home, my dad does have a fire extinguisher
0:05:32 > 0:05:33in the background, ready to go.
0:05:33 > 0:05:34Oh, the sizzle!
0:05:37 > 0:05:40So, get a lovely golden brown colour,
0:05:40 > 0:05:41evenly, all around.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43- And then you're going to pop it into the oven...- Mm-hm.
0:05:43 > 0:05:46- ..for me, Michael.- Mm-hm.
0:05:46 > 0:05:49190 degrees, for about 20 minutes or so.
0:05:49 > 0:05:51And when you go to the oven, will you grab one there?
0:05:51 > 0:05:54- I've already got it resting. - OK. I'll be back in two ticks.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59Look at this little beauty.
0:05:59 > 0:06:00Lovely.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03So, this lamb has been resting for about ten minutes.
0:06:03 > 0:06:06It's really important that when you cook a piece of meat, that roughly
0:06:06 > 0:06:09about half the length of time it takes to cook, you rest it.
0:06:09 > 0:06:12That's what us amateur eaters never do. Because we're too greedy.
0:06:12 > 0:06:13- No patience.- Mm-hm.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16OK, so, I think it's time to carve.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18What is...?
0:06:18 > 0:06:19Oh, look at that!
0:06:19 > 0:06:21- I love it.- Be-autiful.
0:06:21 > 0:06:27What we serve this with is some beautiful British asparagus...
0:06:27 > 0:06:30From the Isle of Wight, I think, on the original menu.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33That's it. And we have our lovely braised shoulder.
0:06:33 > 0:06:35It is two dishes in one, isn't it?
0:06:35 > 0:06:38It is. It is. And I think it is really important
0:06:38 > 0:06:42to kind of note that the idea of using the shoulder means
0:06:42 > 0:06:45that more people get to eat the saddle,
0:06:45 > 0:06:49because obviously, little lambs, they're not so big to share around.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- Oh, yeah.- Fabulous.- But it's the rosemary that's so lovely, isn't it?
0:06:53 > 0:06:54Mm, mm.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57Yeah. Ohh!
0:06:57 > 0:07:00And then the last thing that we're just going to add
0:07:00 > 0:07:01is a little bit of sauce.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03So, in here I've infused
0:07:03 > 0:07:06a bit of mint in with reduced-down lamb stock...
0:07:06 > 0:07:08You can't have lamb without mint.
0:07:08 > 0:07:10And there's a little knob of butter in here as well.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- Yeah, yeah.- Just around.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- There you go.- Yeah.
0:07:15 > 0:07:17There's your knife and fork.
0:07:17 > 0:07:18- OK, you go.- Here we go.
0:07:18 > 0:07:24I'm going to try the saddle first, because that does look great.
0:07:24 > 0:07:25With a bit of the asparagus.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28I'm going to have the top end of the asparagus.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30- Come on, Michael!- All right, all right, all right.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32- Come on.- All right. Ooh!
0:07:32 > 0:07:35Get in there for the braised shoulder because that's what I want.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37Mm!
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- Now the braised bit, this is where the flavour is.- Mm!
0:07:40 > 0:07:41Oh!
0:07:43 > 0:07:45Oh, I see what you mean.
0:07:45 > 0:07:46The mint is lovely in it.
0:07:46 > 0:07:47Mm, yeah.
0:07:47 > 0:07:49Fantastic.
0:07:50 > 0:07:55A celebration of lamb, and a worthy way to celebrate a Diamond Jubilee.
0:07:55 > 0:07:57The original dish was created for the Queen
0:07:57 > 0:07:59by one of the royal family's favourite chefs.
0:08:03 > 0:08:06Michelin-starred Anton Mosimann
0:08:06 > 0:08:08has cooked for four generations of royals.
0:08:08 > 0:08:11It all started when the Queen Mother enjoyed his food
0:08:11 > 0:08:13at London's Dorchester Hotel.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18I came to the Dorchester in 1975.
0:08:18 > 0:08:20It was one of THE best hotels.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24I was so excited to meet the royal family and cook for them.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26Princess Margaret, she came often,
0:08:26 > 0:08:29and Her Majesty the Queen came for banquets and, of course,
0:08:29 > 0:08:30the Queen Mother.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33It was just an incredible experience for me.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35Incredible experience.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39Anton was invited to cook at not one but two grand events
0:08:39 > 0:08:42to celebrate the Queen's Diamond Jubilee.
0:08:42 > 0:08:46As well as serving lamb, he prepared fish courses.
0:08:46 > 0:08:52My first dish today is a steamed sea bass, with a sauce vierge.
0:08:53 > 0:08:54A bit of salt.
0:08:56 > 0:08:58Pepper.
0:08:58 > 0:09:04I love steaming because what you put in, that's what you get out.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06A few leaves of basil.
0:09:07 > 0:09:09The lid.
0:09:09 > 0:09:11It's almost cooked.
0:09:11 > 0:09:13It's less than two minutes
0:09:13 > 0:09:16and this wonderful, beautiful fish is actually cooked.
0:09:18 > 0:09:24I make my sauce vierge, which is a reduction of sherry vinegar,
0:09:24 > 0:09:27a few shallots, finely chopped.
0:09:27 > 0:09:29Add a bit of honey, just as a contrast.
0:09:31 > 0:09:34And once it's cooked down, then it's olive oil
0:09:34 > 0:09:36and spring onions,
0:09:36 > 0:09:40I use a bit of chives and of course tomatoes.
0:09:40 > 0:09:43I have some spinach here,
0:09:43 > 0:09:46with broccoli and a bit of colour, a few carrots.
0:09:48 > 0:09:50Fish and spinach, broccoli, go very well together.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54A few new potatoes.
0:10:01 > 0:10:02And the dressing.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10Some of Anton's dishes have become
0:10:10 > 0:10:13long-standing favourites with the Windsors,
0:10:13 > 0:10:15passing from Queen Mother to daughter.
0:10:15 > 0:10:19Her Majesty the Queen Mother, she loved her food.
0:10:19 > 0:10:23And one of the dishes I remember was the cheese and spinach souffle.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28He starts with a traditional roux sauce, made from butter,
0:10:28 > 0:10:29flour and cold milk.
0:10:32 > 0:10:33Some cheese.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37Mix very carefully.
0:10:37 > 0:10:40Now to put my spinach,
0:10:40 > 0:10:43blanched first of all, then finely chopped,
0:10:43 > 0:10:47and mix that together with the cheese mixture.
0:10:50 > 0:10:52Mm! Delicious.
0:10:54 > 0:10:58Then, Anton cools the mix and adds egg yolks.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06Now I'm going to fold the egg whites into the mix.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09Folding very gentle because I want to keep the air bubbles
0:11:09 > 0:11:13in the egg whites. That makes the souffle rising.
0:11:16 > 0:11:21The mix goes into individual moulds and into the oven for eight minutes.
0:11:28 > 0:11:33Anton serves it with a fromage frais, yoghurt and chive sauce.
0:11:33 > 0:11:34So light, beautiful.
0:11:34 > 0:11:36So, here we are.
0:11:36 > 0:11:40It's light, nice sauce and people loved it.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45I've got the menu card for the banquet
0:11:45 > 0:11:48for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee at Buckingham Palace. Look at it!
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- They're all in French, of course. - Yeah.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52- Now, you are going to do one of these dishes?- I am.
0:11:52 > 0:11:53Which one are you going to do?
0:11:53 > 0:11:56Le Poulet a la Financiere.
0:11:56 > 0:11:58Chicken Financiere.
0:11:58 > 0:11:59Is that banker's chicken, or...?
0:11:59 > 0:12:01No, it's actually a chicken stew.
0:12:01 > 0:12:02A chicken stew!
0:12:02 > 0:12:05You know, the French. They want a fancy name for things.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08It is essentially a very delicious chicken stew.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11So, I'm good start of this recipe in here
0:12:11 > 0:12:13with butter, onion, and carrots,
0:12:13 > 0:12:16and they are just sweating down nicely on a good high heat.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18I'm then going to add my mushrooms.
0:12:18 > 0:12:22That will take a couple of minutes to kind of sweat down
0:12:22 > 0:12:23on a high heat.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26A lot of kind of juice and water is going to come out of mushrooms,
0:12:26 > 0:12:29so you need a bit of patience and a bit of time with that.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31So, while that's cooking away,
0:12:31 > 0:12:36I'm going to give the chicken heart and the livers a bit of a chop.
0:12:36 > 0:12:38Now, they loved offal, didn't they?
0:12:38 > 0:12:40Yeah, and I love offal.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44But from a chef's point of view, what does offal in a dish like this
0:12:44 > 0:12:46- lend to a stew?- Depth of flavour.
0:12:46 > 0:12:50I mean, it's going to give a more complex, interesting notes.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- Yeah.- Now, I'm going to pop them back on the plate.
0:12:53 > 0:12:54Lovely, rich colour, aren't they?
0:12:54 > 0:12:57Yeah, yeah. These are sweating down kind of nicely now.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00They're coming along. I'm going to put a little bit of flour in there.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04It's funny, thinking yourself back to that day
0:13:04 > 0:13:07and Queen Victoria on the throne for 50 years.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10She started, you know, that day having her breakfast
0:13:10 > 0:13:11as a kind of picnic...
0:13:11 > 0:13:14Completely different meal, picnic under the trees at Frogmore...
0:13:14 > 0:13:18- I know.- ..where her husband, Prince Albert, was buried.
0:13:18 > 0:13:19- So romantic.- Near his grave.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21I mean, it does, it breaks my heart.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- You want to believe that they were just madly in love.- Well, yeah.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28And she seems to really have, you know, been heartbroken,
0:13:28 > 0:13:29once he passed away.
0:13:29 > 0:13:31Gosh, the smell is...
0:13:31 > 0:13:33The wine is reducing down. Yes, it is.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37And, now I'm going to add the chicken stock to it.
0:13:37 > 0:13:39Yeah.
0:13:39 > 0:13:42Oh, it's already looking rather good, isn't it?
0:13:42 > 0:13:44All sorts of delights going into it now.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47Next is going to be...the olives.
0:13:47 > 0:13:50- Ah, now, olives... - I know. Just a little twist.
0:13:50 > 0:13:51That's a little unusual, isn't it?
0:13:51 > 0:13:53Yeah. Quite Mediterranean.
0:13:53 > 0:13:57And then I'm going to put in the chicken heart and liver.
0:13:57 > 0:14:03Now, I've already pre-seared the chicken legs and the chicken thighs
0:14:03 > 0:14:06and breasts. I rolled them in a little bit of flour as well.
0:14:06 > 0:14:08Again, as that cooks, that flour will help
0:14:08 > 0:14:10kind of thicken up the sauce a bit more.
0:14:10 > 0:14:11- So I'm going to pop them in now.- OK.
0:14:11 > 0:14:14Yeah, so you cook them for about a half an hour with the lid off.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17Once you're ready with your dumplings, you roll them.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20We're going to pop them in and cook them for another further 20 minutes.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22So you've got dumplings coming in now.
0:14:22 > 0:14:24I've got dumplings to make now. And I love dumplings.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26No stew is complete without dumplings.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29Exactly. So, in here, these are slightly fancy dumplings
0:14:29 > 0:14:33because they have some freshly chopped tarragon in them.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37Also, I'm going to add one egg and some suet.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40So, first of all, give it a little bit of a stir.
0:14:40 > 0:14:46Add the suet. So, your egg is going to go into the centre there.
0:14:46 > 0:14:48I added a pinch of salt into that as well.
0:14:48 > 0:14:50Just give it a bit of a mix.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54Right, so, I've got to get my hands stuck in here now.
0:14:54 > 0:14:56Yeah.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58You don't want your dumpling dissolving, do you?
0:14:58 > 0:15:02No, and this will be cooked inside the stew for 20 minutes.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04OK. Right, I think we're ready to go now.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06- That is well kneaded.- Yeah.
0:15:06 > 0:15:09And then all we're going to do is to shape them into nice
0:15:09 > 0:15:11kind of little dumplings.
0:15:11 > 0:15:12Give them a little bit of a roll.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16So, now you're going to pop your dumplings in.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19After your chicken has been cooking for about 30 minutes,
0:15:19 > 0:15:21this is when you pop the dumplings in
0:15:21 > 0:15:25and you must put the lid on to cook them. Another further 20 minutes.
0:15:25 > 0:15:27And now our final ingredient, cockscomb.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31- MICHAEL LAUGHS What, the bit off its head?- Yeah. - Aren't they normally red?- Yes.
0:15:31 > 0:15:32Well, these have been cooked.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34- I've cooked these for two hours. - I'm not sure about this.
0:15:34 > 0:15:36Look, they're kind of rubbery.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38What do you think they're going to taste like?
0:15:38 > 0:15:40I don't think they're going to taste of much.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43I think the reason they probably put them into stews was to prove that
0:15:43 > 0:15:45they actually came from the cockerel.
0:15:45 > 0:15:46- And that sense of a stew.- Mm.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49We've got all the chicken in there,
0:15:49 > 0:15:51including its...cockscomb.
0:15:51 > 0:15:53Still not sure. There you go.
0:15:55 > 0:15:56OK.
0:15:56 > 0:15:58It's decoration, I think, isn't it?
0:15:58 > 0:16:02There's something rather funny about you know, the crown, the cockscomb,
0:16:02 > 0:16:07from the chicken, in front of 50 kings and princes at this banquet.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10- That sounds like some party. - Yeah, come on, what did they eat?
0:16:10 > 0:16:13Let's have a try. Oh, yes.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15Still not sure about those cockscombs.
0:16:15 > 0:16:18Let me try to see if I can get a little bit of...
0:16:18 > 0:16:20Oh, look at the juice in that.
0:16:20 > 0:16:23And Michael's three portions of cockscombs.
0:16:23 > 0:16:24MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:16:24 > 0:16:27No, no, you don't! No, you don't.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30- OK, I'll be happy with one little bite.- OK.
0:16:30 > 0:16:32There we go.
0:16:32 > 0:16:34All right.
0:16:34 > 0:16:35Oh!
0:16:40 > 0:16:41Is it...?
0:16:41 > 0:16:43No, you don't like it!
0:16:44 > 0:16:47It tastes all right, but it's one of those kind of
0:16:47 > 0:16:49slippery type of things, you know?
0:16:49 > 0:16:51We're not too convinced about the cockscomb.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54I don't think it adds much to the flavour. But the rest...
0:16:54 > 0:16:57The tarragon in the dumpling... Mm!
0:16:57 > 0:17:02Chicken Financiere, banker's chicken, I'm going to call it.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04- Well, it's a rich dish, isn't it? - Mm.
0:17:04 > 0:17:06For a Golden Jubilee.
0:17:08 > 0:17:09Lovely.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13Celebrating a jubilee is often a chance
0:17:13 > 0:17:15to indulge in a bit of nostalgia,
0:17:15 > 0:17:18and what better dish to serve than trifle?
0:17:23 > 0:17:27At his Padstow home in Cornwall, chef Paul Ainsworth has been
0:17:27 > 0:17:31inspired by the jubilee spirit to get creative with a pudding
0:17:31 > 0:17:34that's reigned supreme in Britain for generations.
0:17:35 > 0:17:37I love trifle, and in my trifle,
0:17:37 > 0:17:41I'm going to have some beautiful British strawberries,
0:17:41 > 0:17:42some beautiful British raspberries.
0:17:42 > 0:17:46For our jelly, we're going to use Cornish sparkling wine.
0:17:46 > 0:17:51We're going to add the whole bottle to the pan
0:17:51 > 0:17:52and we're going to bring it...
0:17:52 > 0:17:53CORK POPS
0:17:53 > 0:17:55..to the boil.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58I've got this wonderful sparkling wine with just some nice perfume
0:17:58 > 0:18:00with the thyme, little bit of vanilla,
0:18:00 > 0:18:02some star anise and some sugar.
0:18:02 > 0:18:04So here we are - the lovely pile of strawberries,
0:18:04 > 0:18:06just going to pop those into the sparkling wine.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09Now, I'm going to add my raspberries in there like that -
0:18:09 > 0:18:12the soft fruits just lightly poaching.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15The heat's off now. Very gently, pass off that fruit.
0:18:17 > 0:18:20Let your fruit just rest nicely like that.
0:18:20 > 0:18:23And what we want to do, we want to bring that back up to a simmer,
0:18:23 > 0:18:26just very gently, drop our gelatine and as soon as it goes in there,
0:18:26 > 0:18:29pull it off the heat and just keep stirring
0:18:29 > 0:18:32until you see it just all dissolved. And there you have it.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35You've just made a beautiful sparkling wine jelly.
0:18:36 > 0:18:37Now is the exciting part.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40We're going to build our trifle palace.
0:18:40 > 0:18:41So, just take your bowl,
0:18:41 > 0:18:45just very gently, we're going to spoon our fruit in.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48Nice and clean, so everyone can see those layers.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51Now, I'm going to get my twist on this lovely royal recipe -
0:18:51 > 0:18:53Cornish saffron cake.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56Look at that yellow that's coming from the saffron.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58It's an amazing alternative
0:18:58 > 0:19:01to just those ordinary, boring sponge fingers.
0:19:01 > 0:19:02Right, now, we're going to get the jelly.
0:19:02 > 0:19:06Still liquid, it will start to set once it goes into the fridge.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08Coming up just to the top of the level of the cake
0:19:08 > 0:19:11and the beautiful soft fruit.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14The trifle then sets in the fridge for two to three hours
0:19:14 > 0:19:19while Paul makes a custard, using milk, vanilla and custard powder.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21Once cooled, he adds it to the trifle.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24And what you want is about an inch thick.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27Lovely. It just looks delicious already.
0:19:27 > 0:19:29While the trifle goes back in the fridge,
0:19:29 > 0:19:32Paul whips up some double cream with vanilla and icing sugar
0:19:32 > 0:19:34to make the top layer.
0:19:34 > 0:19:36Spooning it on.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38Look at that.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40Lovely. That is proper.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42Palace of Trifle.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45Going to pop out into the fridge and we're going to make some honeycomb.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47And we're just going to boil glucose, sugar,
0:19:47 > 0:19:49and honey on the stove.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51In with your bicarb.
0:19:51 > 0:19:53Just whisk in that bicarb and let it come up.
0:19:53 > 0:19:54And see the honeycomb coming up?
0:19:54 > 0:19:57Fantastic. Let it rise, let it rise.
0:19:57 > 0:19:58Now, pour onto your sheet.
0:19:58 > 0:20:00And THAT is honeycomb.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05Once the honeycomb has cooled and hardened,
0:20:05 > 0:20:08Paul breaks it up and then it's time to decorate.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13Get the little bits, sprinkle them over.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16Now, if you squint, doesn't that look like the jewels in the crown?
0:20:16 > 0:20:18Ma'am, I hope you approve.
0:20:26 > 0:20:28The nation can't resist a street party.
0:20:28 > 0:20:31In 1977, for the Queen's Silver Jubilee,
0:20:31 > 0:20:36it was all about fancy dress, flag-waving, sandwiches, and squash.
0:20:36 > 0:20:41The patriotic jollity that we recognise as street parties today
0:20:41 > 0:20:44date back to the peace teas for children after the First World War
0:20:44 > 0:20:48and were similar to those held for the Queen's coronation in 1953.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51Historian Dr Polly Russell is in Windsor,
0:20:51 > 0:20:55a royal town with a strong tradition of celebrating jubilees.
0:20:55 > 0:20:57I thought it was the perfect place
0:20:57 > 0:21:00to come and meet some real street party devotees.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03The first one I went to was the coronation.
0:21:03 > 0:21:06- It was definitely for children. - Yeah.
0:21:06 > 0:21:09There was a table down the middle of the street for children.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12And the adults served the children.
0:21:12 > 0:21:17The menu was usually sandwiches with fish paste or jam.
0:21:17 > 0:21:19Yes. That's it, yes, quite!
0:21:19 > 0:21:21And then they had blancmange and jelly,
0:21:21 > 0:21:25which was a great treat in 1950-whatever it was.
0:21:25 > 0:21:30A royal wedding in 2011 and the upcoming Olympics
0:21:30 > 0:21:33saw the enthusiasm for Diamond Jubilee street parties
0:21:33 > 0:21:37reach patriotic fever pitch in 2012.
0:21:37 > 0:21:39Councils in England and Wales received
0:21:39 > 0:21:42almost 9,500 road closure applications.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44The theme was nostalgic,
0:21:44 > 0:21:47with one boozy addition.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50If you go back in time, all the photos you'd see,
0:21:50 > 0:21:52- it's either orange squash... - Orange squash, yeah...
0:21:52 > 0:21:54Or it's tea.
0:21:54 > 0:21:56And of course that has changed.
0:21:56 > 0:21:59And I think that's quite nice, because people want to celebrate
0:21:59 > 0:22:02and of course, these days, you celebrate with champagne or prosecco or whatever.
0:22:02 > 0:22:06The modern street party is a sign of growing affluence.
0:22:06 > 0:22:08Historically, it was up to the sovereign to make
0:22:08 > 0:22:12their jubilee go with a swing by giving food to the poor.
0:22:13 > 0:22:17In 1809, to commemorate George III's Golden Jubilee,
0:22:17 > 0:22:21hundreds of oxen were roasted all over the country.
0:22:21 > 0:22:23At Bachelors Acre in Windsor,
0:22:23 > 0:22:27George's Queen, Charlotte, joined in the celebrations with her children.
0:22:27 > 0:22:29Polly's meeting Windsor Council's Paul Roach
0:22:29 > 0:22:34to find out how the ox roast was revived for our present queen.
0:22:34 > 0:22:35- Hello.- Hello!- Hi.
0:22:35 > 0:22:37Welcome to Bachelors Acre in Windsor.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40Thank you. And what is this?
0:22:40 > 0:22:41This is our obelisk,
0:22:41 > 0:22:44commemorating two of the ox roasts that took place here.
0:22:45 > 0:22:46It took a few months of planning,
0:22:46 > 0:22:49then the consent of Her Majesty
0:22:49 > 0:22:50to make it all happen.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- I wrote to the Queen and then we received a letter back...- Oh.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57On the 21st of May, 2012.
0:22:57 > 0:22:58From Buckingham Palace.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01From Buckingham Palace, acknowledging the fact
0:23:01 > 0:23:03that we'd requested an ox,
0:23:03 > 0:23:07and the Queen graciously agreeing to donating an ox for us.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10Fantastic. And it says here, "The Queen will be pleased to receive
0:23:10 > 0:23:13"an update of the event, so would you be kind enough to write again?"
0:23:13 > 0:23:14- Did you do that?- Yes, we did.
0:23:14 > 0:23:15Oh, I'm glad.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19- So, we fed 1,200 people. - All gathered in this area?
0:23:19 > 0:23:22- All gathered in Bachelors Acre. - Fantastic.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27Mildred Nicholls was kitchen maid at Buckingham Palace in the early years
0:23:27 > 0:23:30of the 1900s, and this recipe book - look at this, Anna -
0:23:30 > 0:23:34this recipe book, it's the only one of its kind in the Royal Archives.
0:23:34 > 0:23:35Look at the writing.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38Contains details of dishes at great events for three reigns,
0:23:38 > 0:23:40like this one, look.
0:23:40 > 0:23:42You can just about make it out, can't you?
0:23:42 > 0:23:44Cerise Jubilee.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47It was a pudding that was served at the Golden Jubilee of
0:23:47 > 0:23:50Queen Victoria, from some chef called Escoffier,
0:23:50 > 0:23:53- whom even I have heard of. - Yes, I'd imagine you'd heard of him.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55- He was one of the most famous chefs in the world.- Now, what is it?
0:23:55 > 0:23:58Hang on. We've got cherries, we've got kirsch and we've got ice cream.
0:23:58 > 0:24:01- That's it, is it?- Yeah. - It does look rather good. - It does look good.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03But it's not up to your standard. You can do better than that.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05I think we can do something.
0:24:05 > 0:24:07Let me take that away. What are YOU going to do?
0:24:07 > 0:24:09OK, so, today I'm going to make chocolate delice,
0:24:09 > 0:24:13and that was served at the current Queen's Diamond Jubilee.
0:24:13 > 0:24:15- Wow.- So, I'm going to start first with the base.
0:24:15 > 0:24:18So here I've already pureed up some Florentine biscuits,
0:24:18 > 0:24:20kind of created this home-made praline.
0:24:20 > 0:24:23And I'm going to take the cornflakes that I've toasted a little bit
0:24:23 > 0:24:25in the oven to give them a little bit more depth of flavour.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29I know that's a strange thing to say, that cornflakes have depth of flavour!
0:24:29 > 0:24:31They're cornflakes, for goodness' sake!
0:24:31 > 0:24:33But it does. It gives them a toastier flavour.
0:24:33 > 0:24:36And then, on top, I'm just going to put the praline paste
0:24:36 > 0:24:38and pulse it one or two times.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41So I'm just going to pulse this.
0:24:42 > 0:24:44OK, so you just continue to puree that for a few minutes and then you
0:24:44 > 0:24:49just press it into the base of your chocolate delice.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52So I'm going to bring my cream up to boil to make the custard,
0:24:52 > 0:24:56which will become the topping of the cake.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59So I have some sugar here and some eggs
0:24:59 > 0:25:01and I'm going to whisk them in together,
0:25:01 > 0:25:03while I wait for the cream to boil.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08This is an adaptation of the original recipe,
0:25:08 > 0:25:10so that it's a bit easier for people at home to make.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13So the cream is now boiling, so I'm just going to, first of all,
0:25:13 > 0:25:16pour a little bit on, just to kind of scald the mix.
0:25:16 > 0:25:17Can I hold that for you?
0:25:17 > 0:25:19Yes. You make a wonderful commis!
0:25:19 > 0:25:21- You're my commis chef. - Oh, right, OK.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24- So I'm going to put this back in the pot...- OK.
0:25:24 > 0:25:25..and thicken it.
0:25:25 > 0:25:27We're just going to thicken this.
0:25:27 > 0:25:29You've got to stir this the whole time.
0:25:29 > 0:25:32OK, so now I'm just going to pour the custard onto the chocolate.
0:25:32 > 0:25:34- Oh, this looks lovely, doesn't it? - Yeah, it does.- Oh, wow.
0:25:34 > 0:25:37You leave that for just a minute or two and then you'll take
0:25:37 > 0:25:40your whisk and just give it a stir and you'll see it all melt.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42See that? All coming together, and it's lovely.
0:25:42 > 0:25:43Into a wonderful gooey mess.
0:25:43 > 0:25:46Yeah. And then you've got to let that chill for a little while,
0:25:46 > 0:25:49because if you add your whipped cream now, it'll just melt.
0:25:49 > 0:25:51And that'll be a hot mess.
0:25:51 > 0:25:54OK, so I actually have a slightly cooled down mix that I made
0:25:54 > 0:25:57earlier on, so I'm going to use that now.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59- Fold the cream through. So this is it here.- Oh, yeah.
0:25:59 > 0:26:01- It looks nice, yeah? - It does, doesn't it?
0:26:01 > 0:26:03So if you just passed me the whipped cream there, please.
0:26:03 > 0:26:05There we go. That's the white one, is it?
0:26:05 > 0:26:09Any time that you're folding in two ingredients,
0:26:09 > 0:26:11you tend to take the lighter ingredient
0:26:11 > 0:26:13and fold it into the heavier one,
0:26:13 > 0:26:14so I take one spoon of it
0:26:14 > 0:26:17and hopefully that will kind of help lighten it up a little bit.
0:26:17 > 0:26:18Rather than the other way around?
0:26:18 > 0:26:21Yeah, because otherwise it would just be lumpy.
0:26:21 > 0:26:24Yeah. OK, so this is folded through quite nicely,
0:26:24 > 0:26:28so all I'm going to do is put it inside the mould. OK, so just...
0:26:29 > 0:26:33This, you'll need to set in the fridge for about two hours or so,
0:26:33 > 0:26:35or, really, as long as you can is better.
0:26:35 > 0:26:37So, yeah, just flatten it down.
0:26:37 > 0:26:39I mean, honestly, I just want to eat this.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42You can smell the chocolate. That's all nice and flat now.
0:26:42 > 0:26:44- You did that brilliantly. - You know...
0:26:44 > 0:26:46You made the most wonderful flat top to it.
0:26:46 > 0:26:48You either have it or you don't, Michael!
0:26:48 > 0:26:52- So now I'm just going to dust some cocoa on top.- OK.
0:26:52 > 0:26:55So just a nice little dusting of cocoa on top.
0:26:57 > 0:27:00So, you want to be able to put this into the fridge
0:27:00 > 0:27:02for at least two hours, ideally overnight,
0:27:02 > 0:27:05but I would never expect you to wait that long.
0:27:05 > 0:27:07Ah, you know me too well! You have a plan.
0:27:07 > 0:27:10Pop that over there and I'll get the one I made earlier.
0:27:10 > 0:27:11OK, all right.
0:27:11 > 0:27:12Big reveal.
0:27:12 > 0:27:14- May I?- You may.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16Oh, I like this.
0:27:16 > 0:27:17My big moment.
0:27:17 > 0:27:18Ooh!
0:27:18 > 0:27:21Oh, look at that!
0:27:21 > 0:27:24So you need a nice hot knife to cut through your chocolate.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29- Oooh.- This is the good bit. Ohh!
0:27:30 > 0:27:32MICHAEL LAUGHS
0:27:32 > 0:27:35Oh, yes, I think that's probably about the right size.
0:27:37 > 0:27:38It's like the Grand Canyon.
0:27:40 > 0:27:41Here we go.
0:27:41 > 0:27:42Now...
0:27:42 > 0:27:43Oh, wow.
0:27:45 > 0:27:47My word, look at that.
0:27:47 > 0:27:48After you.
0:27:50 > 0:27:53I'm going to have the... I like the bit at the end.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55- Mm!- Hang on.- Mm!
0:27:55 > 0:27:57I don't think you like that, Michael, did you?
0:27:57 > 0:27:59No, I hate it, hate it.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01But I might go off...and scoff it.
0:28:01 > 0:28:02ANNA LAUGHS
0:28:02 > 0:28:05Mm. The end of a perfect banquet, I imagine.
0:28:05 > 0:28:06I can't get any of it in.
0:28:06 > 0:28:08- And the end of the programme.- Mm!
0:28:08 > 0:28:11Mm! Till next time...