India & Empire

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03The royal family are steeped in tradition,

0:00:03 > 0:00:05and throughout history, the royal tables

0:00:05 > 0:00:07have showcased culinary excellence.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'

0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it was the Queen's recipe

0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.

0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and the past...'

0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20'..we recreate old family favourites.'

0:00:20 > 0:00:25Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.

0:00:25 > 0:00:26What a mess!

0:00:26 > 0:00:28'We sample royal eating alfresco...'

0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow.- That is what you want.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times...'

0:00:34 > 0:00:37Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters

0:00:37 > 0:00:39and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.

0:00:39 > 0:00:43- Unbelievable! - 'This is Royal Recipes.'

0:00:47 > 0:00:51Hello. I'm Michael Buerk and welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes,

0:00:55 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.

0:00:59 > 0:01:01'In the splendour of the gardens,

0:01:01 > 0:01:05'halls and kitchen at this grandest of country houses,

0:01:05 > 0:01:10'we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.'

0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here, with this gem,

0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook,

0:01:16 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the royal archive.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,

0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,

0:01:28 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s,

0:01:32 > 0:01:35and for the first time in over 100 years,

0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.

0:01:42 > 0:01:45This time, we're cooking royal recipes

0:01:45 > 0:01:47inspired by the days of India and Empire,

0:01:47 > 0:01:50during the reign of our present Queen's

0:01:50 > 0:01:52great-great-grandmother, Victoria.

0:01:52 > 0:01:54It was the start of a fashion for curry

0:01:54 > 0:01:56still enjoyed by today's young royals.

0:01:57 > 0:01:59Today on Royal Recipes,

0:01:59 > 0:02:03historian Dr Annie Gray heads to the Isle of Wight to discover

0:02:03 > 0:02:06how Queen Victoria's passion for the Raj

0:02:06 > 0:02:08got us all hooked on Indian food.

0:02:08 > 0:02:11But it's fair to say that Queen Victoria was one of the people

0:02:11 > 0:02:16to elevate curry to something that truly was fit for a queen.

0:02:16 > 0:02:18The chef who was called to Buckingham Palace

0:02:18 > 0:02:21to create dishes for the Indian President.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24I got massive feedback from the guests

0:02:24 > 0:02:27and the royalty as well.

0:02:27 > 0:02:32And chef Paul Ainsworth cooks up curry, Prince Harry style.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36Prince Harry had this stuff when he was serving in Afghanistan.

0:02:36 > 0:02:40And the Gurkhas, they'd cook up fiery goat curry.

0:02:43 > 0:02:45In the historic kitchen wing,

0:02:45 > 0:02:47we're returning to the reign of Queen Victoria,

0:02:47 > 0:02:50and the Indian dishes served on her menus.

0:02:51 > 0:02:54We're here in the magnificent old kitchen

0:02:54 > 0:02:56with the magnificent old Paul Ainsworth,

0:02:56 > 0:02:58Michelin-starred chef!

0:02:58 > 0:03:01- Thank you. - Two... Bah! Two British greats.

0:03:01 > 0:03:03Yes. Yeah, Queen Victoria.

0:03:03 > 0:03:07Queen Victoria and the Indian takeaway.

0:03:07 > 0:03:10And the popularity of the one owes an awful lot

0:03:10 > 0:03:13to the popularity of the other. She loved curries, didn't she?

0:03:13 > 0:03:16- Yeah, yeah.- And you're going to cook one of her favourite recipes.

0:03:16 > 0:03:20Yeah, one that she really enjoyed, which is a quail and potato curry,

0:03:20 > 0:03:22and it's absolutely delicious and really simple.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24So, what I've done here, Michael,

0:03:24 > 0:03:27is we're going to get going straightaway with a lovely base.

0:03:27 > 0:03:30So, we've got some onions that we've cooked in butter, ghee.

0:03:30 > 0:03:32Just clarified butter, it's a lovely flavour

0:03:32 > 0:03:34and the temperature gets nice and hot.

0:03:34 > 0:03:36I've added in the curry powder first

0:03:36 > 0:03:38because I want to cook that out, so it's not gritty.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40So now we're just going to turn that heat up,

0:03:40 > 0:03:43turn that heat up a little bit and really get going.

0:03:43 > 0:03:47Some grated ginger, absolutely delicious, nice and fragrant.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49Just going to grate that in there like so.

0:03:49 > 0:03:51But the key to it is the sauce, isn't it?

0:03:51 > 0:03:56- The key to...- And actually, "curry" comes from the Indian "kari",

0:03:56 > 0:03:58which I think means sauce.

0:03:58 > 0:04:01Now, this is a really important part of this dish,

0:04:01 > 0:04:04this is what gives us that wonderful colour of the sauce, and tomatoes,

0:04:04 > 0:04:08I mean, for me, they play a massive role in cookery itself.

0:04:08 > 0:04:11So now we're going to add in water, not stock,

0:04:11 > 0:04:13because we've got that wonderful flavour.

0:04:16 > 0:04:17Bring that to the boil.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21And then we're going to add the legs, Michael.

0:04:21 > 0:04:23- The legs first?- Yeah.

0:04:23 > 0:04:25The legs are super, super tender,

0:04:25 > 0:04:28but they need cooking before the breasts.

0:04:28 > 0:04:30And that's it, that's our sauce.

0:04:30 > 0:04:33So, Michael, after an hour of really slow-cooking, a gentle,

0:04:33 > 0:04:36gentle simmer, these are our legs that we've done earlier, OK?

0:04:36 > 0:04:39And we're just going to pick the meat off,

0:04:39 > 0:04:41and in the meantime, we've then blitzed this

0:04:41 > 0:04:43wonderful sauce that we've made.

0:04:43 > 0:04:44Can I get you to grate me an apple, please?

0:04:44 > 0:04:47- Ah, yeah.- Yeah? Peel it and then grate it.- A position of trust, this.

0:04:47 > 0:04:49So, bit by bit, Michael,

0:04:49 > 0:04:54I'm going to add in my beautiful quail leg meat.

0:04:54 > 0:04:56- Here we go.- We're going to add in our breasts.

0:04:57 > 0:05:00Like so, and if the sauce gets too thick,

0:05:00 > 0:05:03just let it down with a little bit of water.

0:05:03 > 0:05:05Now, you can start to see it's coming together,

0:05:05 > 0:05:06becoming beautiful and thick.

0:05:06 > 0:05:08We're going to add in our potatoes.

0:05:10 > 0:05:13Now, these potatoes have just been partly cooked.

0:05:13 > 0:05:15Now, if we just take a bit of your apple...

0:05:15 > 0:05:17- There it is.- OK. - Perfectly done, isn't it?

0:05:17 > 0:05:20All we're going to do is just grate some apple...

0:05:20 > 0:05:22It is perfectly done, absolutely!

0:05:22 > 0:05:26Now, the apple is giving you fragrant acidity, delicious,

0:05:26 > 0:05:29especially a lovely English apple like this, like the Bramley.

0:05:29 > 0:05:31It's a beautiful, clean taste, isn't it?

0:05:31 > 0:05:33And, look, the juices of the apple as well.

0:05:33 > 0:05:35It really is a delicious curry.

0:05:35 > 0:05:38You've got two pots on there, Paul, what's in the mystery one?

0:05:38 > 0:05:40Side dishes.

0:05:40 > 0:05:43You can't have a beautiful curry without some lovely side dishes,

0:05:43 > 0:05:48so in here, we've got some wonderful spinach, a pinch of salt, butter.

0:05:48 > 0:05:50And you can see, we'll just turn it over - see that, Michael?

0:05:50 > 0:05:53And then, of course, you can't have a curry without rice,

0:05:53 > 0:05:56so we've got some wonderful, just some wonderful steamed rice, OK?

0:05:56 > 0:05:59- Is it ready?- Yeah, let's chop some coriander.

0:05:59 > 0:06:01Let's chop some coriander and we're good to go.

0:06:01 > 0:06:03Excellent.

0:06:03 > 0:06:06- OK, so plenty...- That bit of finger that you chopped off.

0:06:06 > 0:06:08Yeah! Plenty of herbs!

0:06:08 > 0:06:11And now, we're just going to move that over here and fold it in,

0:06:11 > 0:06:14and let's plate up. If you just stir that in gently for me.

0:06:14 > 0:06:16- Yeah!- I'm going to get the side dishes ready.

0:06:16 > 0:06:21So, we've got our wonderful steamed rice, our lovely spinach.

0:06:21 > 0:06:23It's good to be right over it, isn't it?

0:06:23 > 0:06:26Absolutely. OK. Let's plate up.

0:06:29 > 0:06:32- So, we're going to have some lovely spinach.- Yep.

0:06:35 > 0:06:37Do you do much Indian food yourself?

0:06:37 > 0:06:38Yeah, I do, especially stuff like this,

0:06:38 > 0:06:41I mean, this would be great to do at home with the family, and I love...

0:06:41 > 0:06:43Do you know what I love about Indian food?

0:06:43 > 0:06:46I love the way that... I love the way that you eat like this,

0:06:46 > 0:06:49sharing round the table, everyone getting stuck in,

0:06:49 > 0:06:50passing food around.

0:06:50 > 0:06:52So, we've got that lovely rice.

0:06:55 > 0:06:58This is my favourite style of curry. I mean, look at that!

0:06:58 > 0:07:00- And the smell...- You don't want it sloshing around?

0:07:00 > 0:07:02No, you don't, you don't.

0:07:02 > 0:07:04- Are you ready to taste? - Oh, am I ever!

0:07:04 > 0:07:05Some lovely rice.

0:07:08 > 0:07:09Like so.

0:07:11 > 0:07:13It's just the smell.

0:07:14 > 0:07:16See those potatoes? Just slightly soft as well.

0:07:16 > 0:07:18Cooked all the way through.

0:07:21 > 0:07:23Nice bit of breast there on top.

0:07:23 > 0:07:26And that lovely deep green spinach.

0:07:26 > 0:07:28- And there we are.- There we go.

0:07:28 > 0:07:29Quail and potato curry.

0:07:31 > 0:07:33- Happy?- Ooh, yeah.

0:07:33 > 0:07:35Would Queen Victoria have approved?

0:07:35 > 0:07:37When you've finished?

0:07:37 > 0:07:40Queen Victoria would have been amused.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42- Fantastic. Thank you. - Mm! Wonderful.

0:07:44 > 0:07:48Quail and potato curry, created for Victoria,

0:07:48 > 0:07:50Queen of England and Empress of India.

0:07:53 > 0:07:56There's no better place to explore Victoria's passion for India

0:07:56 > 0:07:58than at Osborne House,

0:07:58 > 0:08:00the royal family's retreat on the Isle of Wight.

0:08:03 > 0:08:06As Dr Annie Gray explains,

0:08:06 > 0:08:10it's here that she chose to showcase the imagined glamour of the Raj.

0:08:19 > 0:08:22Queen Victoria never actually went to India.

0:08:22 > 0:08:26Instead, she had India brought to England in the shape of this room,

0:08:26 > 0:08:30the Durbar Room, which was constructed to expand the palace

0:08:30 > 0:08:31and give her entertaining space.

0:08:31 > 0:08:35But I think if I'd been present at one of those entertainments,

0:08:35 > 0:08:37I'd have struggled to keep my attention

0:08:37 > 0:08:39on what was going on on the stage,

0:08:39 > 0:08:42because my jaw would be too busy hitting my chest

0:08:42 > 0:08:45as I ogled all this incredible decoration.

0:08:46 > 0:08:50Designed by prominent Indian architects of the time,

0:08:50 > 0:08:52the room is like a maharajah's palace,

0:08:52 > 0:08:56full of elaborate Indian craftsmanship and symbolic motifs.

0:08:56 > 0:09:00And Victoria's homage to the subcontinent didn't stop here.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05In 1887, across came the first

0:09:05 > 0:09:08of what would prove to be a procession of Indian servants.

0:09:08 > 0:09:11But the household did not exactly welcome them.

0:09:11 > 0:09:14In the main, most of them were accepted,

0:09:14 > 0:09:16but one man in particular grew to be

0:09:16 > 0:09:19one of the Queen's most hated servants.

0:09:19 > 0:09:21He was called Abdul Karim,

0:09:21 > 0:09:24also known as the Munshi, and in the later years of the Queen's life,

0:09:24 > 0:09:27he became one of her closest confidants and friends.

0:09:27 > 0:09:30One of her attendants did suggest

0:09:30 > 0:09:33that the reason she liked him so much was because he annoyed

0:09:33 > 0:09:35the rest of the household so much.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37And as the Queen grew older,

0:09:37 > 0:09:40she needed to inject a bit of excitement in her life.

0:09:40 > 0:09:41He may well have been right.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47The Indian cooks weren't much liked either.

0:09:47 > 0:09:50They introduced Victoria to authentic Indian cuisine

0:09:50 > 0:09:52and as a result, the kitchens at Osborne

0:09:52 > 0:09:56had to accommodate their ways of working.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59We know from the diaries and memoirs of Gabriel Tschumi,

0:09:59 > 0:10:02who was one of the apprentices in the kitchen at the time,

0:10:02 > 0:10:06that the Indian cook or cooks had their own ingredients sent to them,

0:10:06 > 0:10:09live animals, presumably to be butchered by them

0:10:09 > 0:10:12in the way they deemed fit, and also whole spices.

0:10:12 > 0:10:15Tschumi was very sniffy about this habit

0:10:15 > 0:10:17of grinding their own spices from fresh.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20He said that the royal kitchens were very well provided for

0:10:20 > 0:10:23with the best-quality curry powder,

0:10:23 > 0:10:27so why on earth would these cooks from India need to grind their own?

0:10:27 > 0:10:30But grind them they did and it appears that the food they produced

0:10:30 > 0:10:33met with Queen Victoria's satisfaction,

0:10:33 > 0:10:37and the words "Indian dish" appeared regularly on her menus

0:10:37 > 0:10:39in the 1880s and 1890s.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42Her favourite curries were usually chicken or fish

0:10:42 > 0:10:44and her passion for this cuisine

0:10:44 > 0:10:47fired up the taste buds of the nation.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50But it's fair to say that Queen Victoria was one of the people

0:10:50 > 0:10:55to elevate curry or at least Indian food from being a mere leftover dish

0:10:55 > 0:10:57beloved of the middle classes

0:10:57 > 0:10:59to something that truly was fit for a queen.

0:11:01 > 0:11:05The relationship between royalty and Indian food continues today.

0:11:05 > 0:11:09And Indian chef Atul Kochhar is one of the latest chefs

0:11:09 > 0:11:11to work with the royal family.

0:11:14 > 0:11:18Atul is one of Britain's top Indian chefs.

0:11:18 > 0:11:20OK, guys. Get on with it. Thank you.

0:11:20 > 0:11:23When the President of India was the guest of Her Majesty,

0:11:23 > 0:11:27Atul was invited to assist the chefs of Buckingham Palace

0:11:27 > 0:11:29as they prepared the menu for the state visit.

0:11:29 > 0:11:32Sea bass was one of the dishes.

0:11:32 > 0:11:37Pan-fried sea bass, mussels, a great coconut sauce called moilee,

0:11:37 > 0:11:38and a masala mash.

0:11:38 > 0:11:40So, let's make the sauce first.

0:11:40 > 0:11:42So, start with mustard seeds.

0:11:44 > 0:11:45And they crackle immediately.

0:11:45 > 0:11:47Some sliced garlic.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51And I also like to add a little bit of ginger.

0:11:52 > 0:11:53And some shallots.

0:11:56 > 0:12:00I need green chilli, and the way I like to use my chilli is

0:12:00 > 0:12:03I remove the seeds, because they have all the heat.

0:12:04 > 0:12:06Turmeric.

0:12:09 > 0:12:12Coconut milk. And that goes in.

0:12:16 > 0:12:17And a large pinch of salt in this.

0:12:23 > 0:12:26Now, believe it or not, my sauce is ready.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28So, the masala mash, it's really easy.

0:12:28 > 0:12:31Same ingredients but different result.

0:12:31 > 0:12:34So, I've just added mustard seeds to the pan.

0:12:35 > 0:12:37Followed by a little bit of garlic.

0:12:38 > 0:12:40Add a few curry leaves.

0:12:42 > 0:12:43Some chopped ginger.

0:12:46 > 0:12:50And I've got mashed potatoes...

0:12:50 > 0:12:51which go in.

0:12:51 > 0:12:54I know the royal family is not keen on garlic,

0:12:54 > 0:12:58so whenever I'm cooking for them, the garlic is off the recipe.

0:12:58 > 0:13:00It's very simple. That's how you handle it.

0:13:00 > 0:13:04I also like to add a dash of red chilli

0:13:04 > 0:13:06and a small pinch of turmeric.

0:13:07 > 0:13:08Some butter.

0:13:11 > 0:13:14That's done.

0:13:14 > 0:13:16And we can go and pan-fry our fish.

0:13:21 > 0:13:24I'm pressing the fish down so that it remains flat and nice.

0:13:27 > 0:13:28And pan-frying fish -

0:13:28 > 0:13:32what you want to achieve out of it is A, of course you want to cook it,

0:13:32 > 0:13:34but also you want to achieve the skin

0:13:34 > 0:13:36to be absolutely crisp and nice.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39Just to double-check, I will lift it slightly and see.

0:13:39 > 0:13:41OK, that's actually beautiful.

0:13:41 > 0:13:45From here, I will need to add the mussels quickly in the pan.

0:13:47 > 0:13:48Four or five mussels will do.

0:13:50 > 0:13:51A blob of butter.

0:13:53 > 0:13:55I think the fish is beautifully cooked.

0:13:55 > 0:13:59All I'm going to do is just take the fish away and leave the mussels

0:13:59 > 0:14:01in the pan for a few seconds.

0:14:06 > 0:14:08And take...

0:14:08 > 0:14:10And we're ready to plate.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16That goes right in the centre.

0:14:19 > 0:14:21A few mussels, you can put them aside.

0:14:28 > 0:14:30So, the potato mash also goes...

0:14:32 > 0:14:33A mussel can rest on it.

0:14:35 > 0:14:38Pan-fried sea bass, mussels,

0:14:38 > 0:14:42masala mash and a beautiful coconut moilee sauce.

0:14:42 > 0:14:43It's as simple as that.

0:14:43 > 0:14:46I got massive feedback from the guests

0:14:46 > 0:14:48and the royalty as well.

0:14:50 > 0:14:53Atul went down really well. He's hot stuff, isn't he?

0:14:53 > 0:14:55He is. Atul is the spice master.

0:14:55 > 0:14:57- He really is. - Right, what are you cooking?

0:14:57 > 0:15:00Prince Harry loves a fiery goat curry,

0:15:00 > 0:15:02so we're going to cook a dish...

0:15:02 > 0:15:04- Is this the one he learned from the Gurkhas?- Absolutely.

0:15:04 > 0:15:06And we're going to cook a dish inspired by that.

0:15:06 > 0:15:10So, here we have some onions cooking down, and in Nepalese cookery,

0:15:10 > 0:15:12they love to really darken the onions,

0:15:12 > 0:15:15and it's fantastic and what happens, you get real deep flavour.

0:15:15 > 0:15:18So, you see here, Michael? The reason they're going dark,

0:15:18 > 0:15:19see, all that is pure flavour.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21That's the sugars that come out of the onion.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24They caramelise and that's how the onions get nice and dark.

0:15:24 > 0:15:27Apparently, Prince Harry had this stuff

0:15:27 > 0:15:30- when he was serving in Afghanistan.- Right.

0:15:30 > 0:15:34He was a forward air controller, and the Gurkhas, apparently,

0:15:34 > 0:15:36providing cover, you know, guarded him while he was doing it

0:15:36 > 0:15:39during the day, and at night, they'd cook up...

0:15:39 > 0:15:41- BOTH:- Fiery goat curry!

0:15:41 > 0:15:45Fascinating. Right, so here we have

0:15:45 > 0:15:48garlic, chilli and ginger.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52The smell is delicious.

0:15:52 > 0:15:54- Lovely, isn't it?- Yeah.

0:15:54 > 0:15:55OK.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58So, we get that nice and blitzed up, so it's lovely and fine.

0:15:58 > 0:16:00And straight away, we're going to get...

0:16:00 > 0:16:02- You like blitzing.- Cooked down. I do, I love it.

0:16:02 > 0:16:05- You're a blitzer!- I'm a blitzer. Right, get that.

0:16:05 > 0:16:07That's really brown, those onions, aren't they?

0:16:07 > 0:16:10- Yeah.- You call them caramelised. - Flavour, flavour. Yeah, yeah.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13You might say burnt, we say caramelised!

0:16:14 > 0:16:16OK, so now we're cooking.

0:16:16 > 0:16:19Right, over here, this is really interesting,

0:16:19 > 0:16:24and really kind of important to this dish is when we dry-fry the spices.

0:16:24 > 0:16:26So, again, great base.

0:16:26 > 0:16:28- Have a smell of that.- Oh, wow!

0:16:28 > 0:16:31- Pity you can't get smells on television.- I know, I know.

0:16:31 > 0:16:33Here, we've got an array of amazing spices.

0:16:33 > 0:16:35- What you got? - Previously dry-fried.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38And the reason for that is spices contain oil.

0:16:38 > 0:16:40So, they dance. They come alive.

0:16:40 > 0:16:43We've got some asafoetida, we've got some beautiful clove.

0:16:43 > 0:16:45- I've never heard of that! - Yeah, it's got a nice kind of

0:16:45 > 0:16:47- almost an onion sort of taste to it.- That one there?

0:16:47 > 0:16:48That's the bright yellow.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51Clove, which is really interesting in this dish.

0:16:51 > 0:16:53Fenugreek. So, they have been dry-fried,

0:16:53 > 0:16:55left to cool and then blitzed like that.

0:16:55 > 0:16:58- Have a smell.- Oh!- Straight in.

0:16:58 > 0:17:01So again, the flavours starting to work in this dish are amazing.

0:17:01 > 0:17:05Star anise - wonderful, wonderful kind of aniseed...

0:17:05 > 0:17:07- But it looks lovely.- Yeah. It's gorgeous. But it's really good.

0:17:07 > 0:17:10- Aniseed flavour, like aniseed balls? - Absolutely. Bay leaf.

0:17:10 > 0:17:13Just give them a little nip to let those oils come out.

0:17:13 > 0:17:15- Yeah, and cinnamon.- Snap that!

0:17:15 > 0:17:17And you can already see, just very quickly,

0:17:17 > 0:17:21we've got one beautiful base starting to come together.

0:17:21 > 0:17:22Absolutely wonderful.

0:17:22 > 0:17:24Here we go with those magic tomatoes,

0:17:24 > 0:17:27full of acidity, nice sweetness, they go straight in.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30So important in this type of cooking.

0:17:30 > 0:17:32Absolutely delicious. Get those all in there.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34Now, onto our goat.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37This is the shoulder, OK? We're going to add that straight in.

0:17:37 > 0:17:39We've just browned it off previously

0:17:39 > 0:17:41and that's just again to get that lovely flavour.

0:17:41 > 0:17:43- Yeah.- So, we add that in.

0:17:43 > 0:17:46Because in India, I think, they talk about mutton and mutton curry

0:17:46 > 0:17:49and things, but quite often, it's not lamb, it's actually goat.

0:17:49 > 0:17:52It's goat, absolutely. In with the water.

0:17:52 > 0:17:54Like that. Don't...

0:17:54 > 0:17:57With any recipes like this, don't drown it in water.

0:17:57 > 0:17:59Just enough to cover.

0:17:59 > 0:18:01You can add more but don't dilute that flavour.

0:18:01 > 0:18:03So that's everything in the pan.

0:18:03 > 0:18:06We're just going to put the lid on.

0:18:06 > 0:18:09- Get that in the oven. - Fiery goat curry.

0:18:09 > 0:18:12- Yes!- Now, are they just showing off or is this really going to be hot?

0:18:12 > 0:18:15- Is it going to be a vindaloo? - It's not going to be a vindaloo,

0:18:15 > 0:18:17because you've got lovely fragrant spices in there,

0:18:17 > 0:18:19but it's going to have a nice bit of kick

0:18:19 > 0:18:20with the lovely chilli powder there.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22- Right, onto the side dishes.- Mm-hm.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25For me, probably one of my most favourite salads

0:18:25 > 0:18:27and it's the kachumber.

0:18:27 > 0:18:29You've got this lovely rich kind of curry

0:18:29 > 0:18:31and you want something to really clean the palate,

0:18:31 > 0:18:33so you've got lovely, clean cucumber, tomatoes,

0:18:33 > 0:18:36red onion, some nice green chilli, some garam masala.

0:18:36 > 0:18:39We're going to finish that with a little bit of lime

0:18:39 > 0:18:42and some fresh coriander, so you can imagine, rich, hot,

0:18:42 > 0:18:44and nice temperature contrasts as well.

0:18:44 > 0:18:45It's as easy as this.

0:18:45 > 0:18:47Make sure everything's quite thinly sliced,

0:18:47 > 0:18:51because you don't want it to be sort of big chunks of red onion.

0:18:51 > 0:18:55OK? Just a light seasoning, all right? Not too much.

0:18:55 > 0:18:57- That's the garam masala. - That's the garam masala.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00- Why are you putting that in?- It's just a lovely spice, garam masala.

0:19:00 > 0:19:03- Smell it.- Ooh, yeah.

0:19:03 > 0:19:06- And it's a clean taste. - Really, really clean taste, yeah.

0:19:06 > 0:19:08OK? Some lime juice.

0:19:08 > 0:19:10Delicious. OK.

0:19:13 > 0:19:15Some lovely coriander.

0:19:16 > 0:19:19And then, just, you know, you can get your fingers in there.

0:19:19 > 0:19:21For you, Michael, I'll be very polite.

0:19:21 > 0:19:23And just a nice, gentle stir.

0:19:26 > 0:19:28- OK?- Yeah.

0:19:28 > 0:19:29Lovely.

0:19:33 > 0:19:36And what's that other dish you've got in front of your kachumber?

0:19:36 > 0:19:41So, the traditional cucumber raita, this is yoghurt, mint and apple,

0:19:41 > 0:19:45and the apple - because you've got the cucumber in the kachumber,

0:19:45 > 0:19:47the apple in there is delicious.

0:19:47 > 0:19:50That's an interesting variety on the usual raita, isn't it?

0:19:50 > 0:19:52- Right, shall we serve up?- I think we should.- Yeah? Let's do it.

0:19:54 > 0:19:56And over here

0:19:56 > 0:20:00is our delicious goat curry.

0:20:00 > 0:20:02Look at that!

0:20:02 > 0:20:04That's the bit, lifting the lid off,

0:20:04 > 0:20:06- putting that in the middle of the table.- Yeah.

0:20:06 > 0:20:08That is magnificent, and do you know what we'll do?

0:20:08 > 0:20:11We'll just finish that with some more fresh coriander.

0:20:11 > 0:20:15OK? And we're just going to now stir that in.

0:20:15 > 0:20:17Wonderful, rich, dark brown.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20Look at it. Honestly, it's incredible.

0:20:21 > 0:20:24- OK. Now, we're just going to serve up.- Yeah, come on.

0:20:28 > 0:20:29Oh, my word. That looks good, doesn't it?

0:20:29 > 0:20:32Delicious, isn't it? Absolutely delicious.

0:20:32 > 0:20:35- Would you like some kachumber? - Yes, please.

0:20:35 > 0:20:38- I just like saying... - I know you do, I know you do!

0:20:38 > 0:20:40Right. A bit of kachumber for you, Michael.

0:20:40 > 0:20:44OK? A nice bit of that lovely apple and mint raita.

0:20:44 > 0:20:45Yeah.

0:20:45 > 0:20:51And there, we have my inspired version of the fiery goat curry.

0:20:52 > 0:20:53- Here we go.- Get stuck in.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55Ooh, I say!

0:20:57 > 0:20:58Mm!

0:20:58 > 0:21:00- It's good.- So rich, isn't it?

0:21:00 > 0:21:01- Do you want some?- Yeah, go on.

0:21:01 > 0:21:03Come on.

0:21:03 > 0:21:06I think, like you say, it's the richness

0:21:06 > 0:21:09and then you've got these things here giving you the acidity

0:21:09 > 0:21:12and cutting through it all. It's such a great dish.

0:21:12 > 0:21:14I have to say, Prince Harry has got good taste.

0:21:16 > 0:21:19Fiery goat curry is just one of a huge range of curries

0:21:19 > 0:21:22available to British people as well as princes.

0:21:24 > 0:21:28I'm here in the house's magnificent library with Fiona Ross,

0:21:28 > 0:21:31who's a food historian who writes a lot about the royals.

0:21:31 > 0:21:36We all know Queen Victoria had this real interest in India,

0:21:36 > 0:21:38in particular Indian cuisine, Indian culture.

0:21:38 > 0:21:40What about her successors?

0:21:40 > 0:21:44Well, her successors continued that, very much so -

0:21:44 > 0:21:47Bertie, her son, and then his son George V.

0:21:47 > 0:21:52George V, despite being rather a dull monarch, at least food-wise,

0:21:52 > 0:21:55came to adore Indian food.

0:21:55 > 0:21:57- And India itself. - And India itself, yes.

0:21:57 > 0:22:00He shifted position from being the sort of monarch

0:22:00 > 0:22:03who would always eat the same thing every day for breakfast,

0:22:03 > 0:22:06to becoming somebody who was a real advocate for India,

0:22:06 > 0:22:09who felt an enormous sense of responsibility

0:22:09 > 0:22:12for the Empire in itself.

0:22:12 > 0:22:16Originally, he just hated the idea of leaving Britain, didn't he?

0:22:16 > 0:22:17Yes, when he first married Mary,

0:22:17 > 0:22:21he insisted that they honeymoon in Sandringham, telling her,

0:22:21 > 0:22:24"I've been abroad and it's not good!"

0:22:24 > 0:22:28- But then he went to India. - But then he went to India, in 1905,

0:22:28 > 0:22:33and he and Mary travelled 9,000 miles, spent 18 weeks there.

0:22:33 > 0:22:38And it was during his reign that the Empire Marketing Board

0:22:38 > 0:22:43tried to somehow bring all these exotic foods from Empire

0:22:43 > 0:22:45and Commonwealth into Britain.

0:22:45 > 0:22:46Yes, they did.

0:22:46 > 0:22:49The Empire Marketing Board was established in 1926

0:22:49 > 0:22:52and it was headed by the Colonial Secretary, Leo Amery.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55They had an enormous budget for the time

0:22:55 > 0:22:58in order to promote Empire produce

0:22:58 > 0:23:02from the colonies and the dominions of the British Empire.

0:23:02 > 0:23:05It was an enormous publicity campaign for its time.

0:23:05 > 0:23:09There were over 200 Empire marketing posters produced,

0:23:09 > 0:23:13which had brilliant slogans, such as,

0:23:13 > 0:23:16"The jungles of today are the gold mines of tomorrow."

0:23:16 > 0:23:19The grandly named Women's Patriotic League

0:23:19 > 0:23:22focused their attentions mostly on the Empire pudding.

0:23:24 > 0:23:27They started the first Empire Shopping Week in 1922

0:23:27 > 0:23:31and they managed to persuade Harrods and Selfridge's

0:23:31 > 0:23:36to give over areas of shop floor to marketing the Empire pudding,

0:23:36 > 0:23:40and the idea was that women could even buy the pudding in its...

0:23:40 > 0:23:43ready-made in its bowl, so all you would have to do

0:23:43 > 0:23:44is sort of stir it or steam it.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47- Not doing anything too dangerous! - Yes, that's right.

0:23:47 > 0:23:49Fiona, thanks.

0:23:51 > 0:23:54Look at this, Paul. This is the Empire Christmas pudding.

0:23:54 > 0:23:58"According to the recipe supplied by the King's chef, Mr Cedard,"

0:23:58 > 0:24:01by "Their Majesties' gracious consent."

0:24:01 > 0:24:03And we've got currants from Australia,

0:24:03 > 0:24:06sultanas from South Africa,

0:24:06 > 0:24:08it's got candied peel from South Africa,

0:24:08 > 0:24:12Demerara sugar from the West Indies, cinnamon from India,

0:24:12 > 0:24:14from absolutely all over.

0:24:14 > 0:24:16The Empire Christmas pudding. Amazing!

0:24:16 > 0:24:19This is the recipe book of Mildred Nicholls,

0:24:19 > 0:24:22who was just a few years earlier than this,

0:24:22 > 0:24:25she was a kitchen maid at Buckingham Palace, as we know.

0:24:25 > 0:24:28And one of the most fascinating entries in her recipe book,

0:24:28 > 0:24:32which we got hold of, is the plum pudding, the Christmas pudding.

0:24:32 > 0:24:35- Absolutely.- And on one side, this is the fascinating thing about it,

0:24:35 > 0:24:38on one side, it's the royals' plum pudding.

0:24:38 > 0:24:41And on the other side, it's the servants' plum pudding.

0:24:41 > 0:24:43- What's the difference? - Well, this is the point.

0:24:43 > 0:24:46There isn't a difference except quantity.

0:24:46 > 0:24:48I mean, look how much more, you know!

0:24:48 > 0:24:50It's a small one for the royals,

0:24:50 > 0:24:54but the servants', it's got 40 pounds of beef suet, 40 pounds of flour.

0:24:54 > 0:24:58It just goes to show how many servants were actually working

0:24:58 > 0:25:00- in Buckingham Palace. - 40 pounds of beef!

0:25:00 > 0:25:03As a starter. There we are, Mildred Nicholls' plum pudding.

0:25:03 > 0:25:04So, what are your ingredients?

0:25:04 > 0:25:08We've got that lovely dried fruit, sultanas, currants, raisins,

0:25:08 > 0:25:09mixed peel, beef suet.

0:25:09 > 0:25:12Demerara sugar, dark brown sugar, nutmeg.

0:25:12 > 0:25:15We've got some beautiful cinnamon, breadcrumbs,

0:25:15 > 0:25:17some rum and some brandy.

0:25:17 > 0:25:19- I was eyeing that. - So, absolutely delicious.

0:25:19 > 0:25:21Very simple, pudding basin.

0:25:21 > 0:25:23We've just lined it with some butter.

0:25:23 > 0:25:27So, we're just simply going to spoon this mix into here, Michael.

0:25:27 > 0:25:31And you can see it's quite a firm mix,

0:25:31 > 0:25:35so the important thing is, as you're doing it, push down,

0:25:35 > 0:25:38because we don't want to create any air pockets.

0:25:38 > 0:25:40- So we've got all that mix in there. - Well done, don't waste any.

0:25:40 > 0:25:42I'm just going to have to get you to give me a little hand,

0:25:42 > 0:25:45- because we're going to put the tinfoil on top.- I'm Mildred now!

0:25:45 > 0:25:47And then we'll put the string round.

0:25:47 > 0:25:49So, again, like a traditional steamed pudding.

0:25:49 > 0:25:53- Really smoothing it off. - Really smoothing it off.

0:25:53 > 0:25:56You've seen my tinfoil, simply on top like that.

0:25:56 > 0:26:02Go push it on, so the butter then sticks to the pudding mix, OK?

0:26:02 > 0:26:05And then, just, this bit is really important.

0:26:05 > 0:26:09You don't want to allow any moisture to get in, or water to get in there.

0:26:09 > 0:26:12- OK.- Shall I hold it up?

0:26:12 > 0:26:14Yeah. If you can just hold it in place from the bottom.

0:26:14 > 0:26:17Like that, and then I'm going to... That's it. That's fantastic.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23- If I put my finger on that... - Put your finger on there. OK.

0:26:23 > 0:26:24- This is teamwork.- It is!

0:26:27 > 0:26:29- That's bubbling away.- So, in here, we've got a nice, deep pan,

0:26:29 > 0:26:33lots of steam and I've got a saucer turned upside down

0:26:33 > 0:26:37just to kind of elevate it, so the heat's going all the way around.

0:26:37 > 0:26:41And then, just really carefully drop your pudding in there,

0:26:41 > 0:26:43sit it on top of the saucer, just like that.

0:26:43 > 0:26:44And it's about up to what level?

0:26:44 > 0:26:47- Basically, it's about a quarter full.- Yeah.

0:26:47 > 0:26:49Cos we don't want it to move, we just want steam.

0:26:49 > 0:26:51Lid back on.

0:26:51 > 0:26:53The steam is trapped in there now

0:26:53 > 0:26:56and that is just going to steam-cook for eight hours.

0:26:56 > 0:26:59- Eight!- Eight hours. - A long job.

0:26:59 > 0:27:02Tip, just keep an eye on the water, because it will boil dry,

0:27:02 > 0:27:04even though the lid's on there. And that's it.

0:27:04 > 0:27:07- I'm not going to wait eight hours. - No, you haven't got to.

0:27:07 > 0:27:09Lucky for you, I've been slaving away.

0:27:09 > 0:27:11Yeah, yeah. And here it is.

0:27:11 > 0:27:14- Here it is.- Go on, cut it, Paul! Cut it.

0:27:15 > 0:27:17You are excited. Do you like puddings?

0:27:17 > 0:27:19- I do, actually, yeah.- Yeah?

0:27:19 > 0:27:22- Right, we'll take a nice wedge. - Yeah.

0:27:24 > 0:27:26- Yes!- You do that so well.

0:27:28 > 0:27:29- Look at that.- Ooh!

0:27:29 > 0:27:31- Look at the steam.- Yeah, yeah.

0:27:31 > 0:27:33Beautiful.

0:27:33 > 0:27:35Suety pudding stuffed with fruit.

0:27:35 > 0:27:38Stuffed with fruit. And do you know what else?

0:27:38 > 0:27:41- Brandy butter.- Well, did I need ask? - Yeah!

0:27:43 > 0:27:45- The low-calorie version. - You're doing that with a hot spoon?

0:27:45 > 0:27:47A hot spoon, yeah.

0:27:47 > 0:27:50Just so it comes off my spoon and goes up nicely like that.

0:27:50 > 0:27:53Tricks of the trade. Look at the presentation.

0:27:53 > 0:27:55I'm not going to look at the presentation for long.

0:27:55 > 0:27:57- Look at that!- I'm not going to look at it, I'm going to eat it.

0:27:57 > 0:28:01- Here we go. Are you going to have one?- Yeah, I am.

0:28:01 > 0:28:03Mildred, happy Christmas!

0:28:04 > 0:28:07Mildred, I love you.

0:28:07 > 0:28:12That's it from our celebration of food from India and the Empire.

0:28:12 > 0:28:14See you next week.