0:00:02 > 0:00:04The Royal family are steeped in tradition and throughout history
0:00:04 > 0:00:07the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09In celebration of royal food...
0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe
0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15..from the present and the past...
0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20..we recreate old family favourites.
0:00:20 > 0:00:25Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
0:00:25 > 0:00:26What a mess!
0:00:26 > 0:00:28We sample royal eating alfresco.
0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow!- That is what you want!
0:00:31 > 0:00:35And revisit the most extravagant times.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37Peasant, stag, turkey, salmon,
0:00:37 > 0:00:39oysters and turbot dressed in a lobster-champagne sauce.
0:00:39 > 0:00:41Unbelievable!
0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51Hello, I'm Michael Buerk and welcome to Royal Recipes.
0:00:51 > 0:00:52This is Audley End,
0:00:52 > 0:00:55one of Britain's finest stately homes
0:00:55 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.
0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,
0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen at this grandest of country houses,
0:01:05 > 0:01:10we will be recreating the food served at the highest royal table.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here with this gem,
0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook,
0:01:16 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal archive.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,
0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,
0:01:28 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35And for the first time in over 100 years,
0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.
0:01:41 > 0:01:46This time, we cook food served at the biggest royal spectacle of all,
0:01:46 > 0:01:47the coronation.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50When the Queen was crowned, people camped out on the streets.
0:01:50 > 0:01:5327 million watched on television for the first time.
0:01:53 > 0:01:55To mark this historic event,
0:01:55 > 0:02:00new recipes were created for the Queen's guests and for her people.
0:02:00 > 0:02:02Today, here in the Royal Recipes kitchen,
0:02:02 > 0:02:05Michelin-star chef Paul Ainsworth creates his version
0:02:05 > 0:02:08of the most famous coronation dish of all.
0:02:08 > 0:02:13If there's something that's improved over the last 50 or so years...
0:02:13 > 0:02:14- Thank you. - ..it's coronation chicken.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17The daughter of Britain's first television cook
0:02:17 > 0:02:21recreates her mother's coronation recipes, including melon balls.
0:02:21 > 0:02:26You press firmly in, you pray, you turn
0:02:26 > 0:02:29and, hey presto, a ball.
0:02:29 > 0:02:33And chef Anna Haugh discovers how not to fish
0:02:33 > 0:02:35for royal coronation salmon.
0:02:35 > 0:02:38- Catch me a fish. - We'll get you a fish.
0:02:41 > 0:02:43In the kitchen wing of this stately home,
0:02:43 > 0:02:47food from the most excessive coronation feast in British history,
0:02:47 > 0:02:51to the more restrained menu of the present Queen's coronation meal.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53Hello. This is the historic kitchen,
0:02:53 > 0:02:57and joining me is Michelin-starred chef Paul Ainsworth.
0:02:57 > 0:02:59- What do you think of it?- It's fantastic, what a wonderful kitchen.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03Now, Paul, when I mention the coronation, what do you think?
0:03:03 > 0:03:05It's got to be chicken, hasn't it?
0:03:05 > 0:03:07- Coronation chicken. - It's got to be coronation chicken.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10And there it is. It looks pink.
0:03:10 > 0:03:12Yeah, well, this one is Rosemary Hume's,
0:03:12 > 0:03:14so she invented the coronation chicken.
0:03:14 > 0:03:16- Back in the '50s. - Yeah, wonderful food writer.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- But why is it pink?- Because of the red wine, which is unusual,
0:03:19 > 0:03:21which isn't present in the modern recipe.
0:03:21 > 0:03:23- Normally they're quite yellow, aren't they?- Yeah.
0:03:23 > 0:03:25And is that what you're going to do for us today?
0:03:25 > 0:03:27And that's what I'm going to cook for you today.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29A beautiful version of coronation chicken.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31So, this is your modern take on it?
0:03:31 > 0:03:34Yeah. The original version is quite heavy.
0:03:34 > 0:03:36So what we've got over here, we've got two chicken breasts.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- Yeah.- And this is a lovely way of cooking chicken.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42We're just poaching, so it's keeping it lovely and most.
0:03:42 > 0:03:44- Keeping it moist. - But we've got a fragrant stock.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47We got some coconut milk, some kaffir lime leaves, lemon grass,
0:03:47 > 0:03:50ginger, little bit of salt, chicken stock and basically,
0:03:50 > 0:03:53great to do at home, bring it up to a simmer,
0:03:53 > 0:03:55turn the gas off and then just let it poach
0:03:55 > 0:03:59for about 15 minutes and that chicken breast will be so succulent.
0:03:59 > 0:04:00But those kind of ingredients,
0:04:00 > 0:04:02lemon grass and all that sort of thing,
0:04:02 > 0:04:05we'd never even heard of those in 1953.
0:04:05 > 0:04:08No, and the whole idea of this is it's more southern India,
0:04:08 > 0:04:10so it's lovely and fragrant.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13- Yeah.- Next, we've got this delicious coronation sauce.
0:04:13 > 0:04:14Now, I've already sweated down the onions.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17What I mean by sweating is we've just cooked without colour.
0:04:17 > 0:04:20And to it I've added some turmeric,
0:04:20 > 0:04:22some mango chutney and some curry powder.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24Turmeric gives it that yellow...
0:04:24 > 0:04:26Gives it that colour. But as you can see, not too much.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- Yeah.- The curry powder's giving us that little kick and that nice heat.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33Now, what's great about this dish, we're using all of the flavours,
0:04:33 > 0:04:36so it's just two pots, so nice and simple to do at home.
0:04:36 > 0:04:39Literally, we're just going to ladle some of our delicious stock that our
0:04:39 > 0:04:40chicken's been cooking in.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44So you can see like we're using all of the flavours.
0:04:45 > 0:04:47Can you see it's got that kind of real bright yellow.
0:04:47 > 0:04:49- Can I have a sniff? - Yeah, absolutely, go in.
0:04:49 > 0:04:51So the onions, the spices. Yeah.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54Now, all we're going to do is reduce that right down
0:04:54 > 0:04:59so we get this and this is the wonderful coronation chicken,
0:04:59 > 0:05:01almost like paste but you see, it's a deep colour,
0:05:01 > 0:05:02it's not that horrible yellow.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- Yeah.- Absolutely delicious. - Really rich.
0:05:05 > 0:05:06So, we're going to go in our bowl.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11And the reason I've let it cool down is because we're going to add
0:05:11 > 0:05:13mayonnaise and yoghurt, and if you were to add that hot,
0:05:13 > 0:05:15then you would split them out.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17So we have some mayonnaise, which is absolutely delicious.
0:05:18 > 0:05:22Some yoghurt. The yoghurt giving it a lovely acidity and the mayonnaise
0:05:22 > 0:05:24giving it nice body and nice richness.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26Bring those together.
0:05:26 > 0:05:28So different from the one in 1953, isn't it?
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- Absolutely.- The one in 1953, interestingly enough,
0:05:30 > 0:05:32it was considered pretty exotic at the time.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35You know, it was only served to the foreign guests at the coronation?
0:05:35 > 0:05:37- Right, OK. - It was far too exotic for us!
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- Why's that?- Well, I suppose it was too spicy for British tastes.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44So now you can see we've got this beautiful sauce.
0:05:44 > 0:05:45Delicious.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48So I've cooked two breasts, you've got all that,
0:05:48 > 0:05:52now these kind of aromats, they've done their job now.
0:05:52 > 0:05:55That lovely ginger, kaffir lime, you can smell that lemon grass.
0:05:55 > 0:05:58Absolutely delicious. And it's as easy as this.
0:05:58 > 0:06:00Just going to plate up.
0:06:00 > 0:06:01Now, I like to carve the chicken,
0:06:01 > 0:06:03just so I can show you it inside, just like that.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05- Now, look at that.- Oh, wow.
0:06:05 > 0:06:07Just look how juicy and succulent that is.
0:06:07 > 0:06:08Oh, it's exciting.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14- OK.- Yeah.- And that's it, just as a two and you know what?
0:06:14 > 0:06:18It's just about, it's refinement, that's all it is,
0:06:18 > 0:06:21just taking your time with it, nice ingredients.
0:06:21 > 0:06:26I mean, that chicken there is just so moist and tender and just full of
0:06:26 > 0:06:29all that flavour from that lovely aromatic broth.
0:06:29 > 0:06:31And now all I want to do is just take some of that
0:06:31 > 0:06:34wonderful coronation sauce.
0:06:34 > 0:06:36Not a lot of it because it's nice and we don't want to take away
0:06:36 > 0:06:38too much from the chicken.
0:06:39 > 0:06:40And not drown it, you know?
0:06:40 > 0:06:42- Yeah.- We want to taste the chicken
0:06:42 > 0:06:44as well as that lovely coronation sauce.
0:06:44 > 0:06:48You've got that wonderful acidity coming from the...
0:06:48 > 0:06:50Coming from the yoghurt as well, little bit from the mayonnaise.
0:06:50 > 0:06:53We're just going to finish that over with some lovely coriander and with
0:06:53 > 0:06:56some lovely toasted almonds.
0:06:56 > 0:06:58That gives us a nice crunch,
0:06:58 > 0:07:01nice texture and the almonds go so beautiful with the chicken.
0:07:01 > 0:07:02And do you know what?
0:07:02 > 0:07:04A dish fit for a king, fit for a queen?
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- I think so.- So, Paul, the moment of truth, eh?
0:07:07 > 0:07:09- Absolutely. - The past against the present.
0:07:09 > 0:07:10Rosemary against Paul.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13I like that, the past against the present. Shall we have a taste?
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- Yeah. The past first, I think. - Yeah, absolutely.
0:07:16 > 0:07:18Now, the Queen didn't have this, of course.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21It was only the foreign guests at the coronation.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- It's not that bad, is it? - No.- It's a bit bland.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28Bit bland, yeah.
0:07:28 > 0:07:32And quite, that sort of fattiness from the mayonnaise.
0:07:32 > 0:07:34Yeah, it's got a very rich...
0:07:34 > 0:07:37Very rich, and the rice doesn't kind of take it up.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42Well, that's a good start. Because I'm glad you don't like Rosemary's!
0:07:42 > 0:07:46No, no, I wouldn't be disrespectful but, no, you're right.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48- Try this on?- Yeah.- Would you like me to cut you a piece?
0:07:49 > 0:07:50You get a bit of everything.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53- I want a bit of everything. - There we go.
0:07:53 > 0:07:55- Oh, can I have that one? - Yeah, go for it.
0:07:55 > 0:07:56And what about you? There we go.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02Now that is special.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- It's the texture of the chicken. - Chicken.- Really, really moist.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09But it's that aromatic, you know, the lemon grass, the kaffir lime.
0:08:09 > 0:08:11The chicken's almost like...
0:08:11 > 0:08:12Like a sponge, really porous
0:08:12 > 0:08:16and that's important to get that salt into the stock as well,
0:08:16 > 0:08:19but all the flavours that are in that you can taste,
0:08:19 > 0:08:21and then you've got that lovely mild sauce,
0:08:21 > 0:08:24which has got that wonderful acidity from the yoghurt.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26It's brilliant, it's really nice.
0:08:26 > 0:08:29If there's something that's improved over the last 50 or so years...
0:08:29 > 0:08:31- Thank you. - ...it's coronation chicken.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- Yeah.- Well done, Paul. - Yeah.- I love it.- Good.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37It's certainly a light and aromatic dish.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40I think it would appeal to a modern monarch's palette.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44A celebratory coronation banquet
0:08:44 > 0:08:48always showcases ingredients from around the United Kingdom.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52Lamb from Wales and of course salmon from Scotland,
0:08:52 > 0:08:56where the Royals seem to love fishing for it as much as eating it.
0:08:59 > 0:09:04Scone Palace in Perthshire is an ancient site of royal coronations,
0:09:04 > 0:09:07the perfect place for chef Anna Haugh to try her hand
0:09:07 > 0:09:08at salmon fishing.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11Scone Palace is on the banks of the River Tay,
0:09:11 > 0:09:15which is the largest river in Britain, and it's full of salmon,
0:09:15 > 0:09:18and I'm determined to catch one today, or at least try.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22Scottish salmon is famous world over.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27Ian Kirk is a gillie who's been fishing the waters here for years.
0:09:32 > 0:09:34Ian, hi, how are you?
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- Anna. I'm doing fine, yourself? - Yeah, great. Nice to meet you.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41And you. So you're here to catch a fish?
0:09:41 > 0:09:43Yeah, I plan on catching a salmon today.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47Well, I tell you, it's the right time of year,
0:09:47 > 0:09:48it's the right place to do it.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- So, we'll get you kitted out and if our luck's in, our luck's in.- OK.
0:09:53 > 0:09:57Anna may be more familiar with cooking salmon than catching it,
0:09:57 > 0:10:00but suited and booted, she certainly looks the part.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03So why is it such a good place to fish it?
0:10:03 > 0:10:06It's October, and that is the peak of the salmon season.
0:10:06 > 0:10:08That's what I want.
0:10:08 > 0:10:11Because the salmon like to hold up here at this time of year.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16Simple as that. Where at the moment they're coming in from the sea and
0:10:16 > 0:10:19they're heading upstream and we get first crack at them.
0:10:19 > 0:10:22Scone Palace owns a six-mile stretch
0:10:22 > 0:10:24of this prime salmon-fishing territory.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28- Oh, it's beautiful here. - Yeah, it's quite special.
0:10:30 > 0:10:31Especially at this time of year
0:10:31 > 0:10:35with the trees turning a beautiful shade of rust and red.
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- Yeah.- Yeah, this is the... We term this as being the lower Tay.
0:10:39 > 0:10:41It's not as deep as people think.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44It's quite shallow. Average depth six, seven feet here.
0:10:44 > 0:10:47- Oh.- Yeah.- So it'll only be up to my waist, then, really?
0:10:48 > 0:10:51Yeah. Maybe with your heels on, aye.
0:10:51 > 0:10:54So, where's your glasses and we'll get you started.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- OK, let's go.- Okey dokey.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59The shades reduce glare from the water,
0:10:59 > 0:11:02which makes it easier to spot the fish, in theory anyway.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06It's a nice C shape, wonderful.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09And rotate. On the telephone.
0:11:11 > 0:11:13- Kind of.- Kind of.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16- First part was fantastic.- OK. - The second part was horrible.
0:11:17 > 0:11:22Under Ian's expert guidance, Anna channels her inner fisherwoman.
0:11:22 > 0:11:23Rotate the body,
0:11:23 > 0:11:26up, two, three. Nearly.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29Now, you've done that, you've done that pushing thing again.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32- Yeah.- How come you use this technique to catch them?
0:11:32 > 0:11:36Well, fly fishing is the most artistic, it's the most balletic,
0:11:36 > 0:11:40it's the most graceful form of catching a salmon.
0:11:40 > 0:11:42What's so special about Scottish salmon?
0:11:42 > 0:11:46The wild Scottish salmon, the texture of the flesh,
0:11:46 > 0:11:51a fresh, wild Scottish salmon is a thing to behold.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53When you, you'll know yourself, when you cook it,
0:11:53 > 0:11:57even when you're cooking it and the taste, the meatiness, the flavour,
0:11:57 > 0:11:59it's just perfect.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01Do you think there's something special in this water
0:12:01 > 0:12:03that makes it, you know, more delicious?
0:12:03 > 0:12:06- Clean water, good feeding.- Mm.
0:12:06 > 0:12:08And good breeding habitat.
0:12:08 > 0:12:12That's it, that's what makes them so special, absolutely.
0:12:12 > 0:12:15- Catch me a fish. - We'll get you a fish.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18Anna gets the hang of casting, but despite her best efforts,
0:12:18 > 0:12:21the salmon stay tantalising out of reach.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23Look at that! That was two at once.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26It looks like Anna's heading home empty-handed,
0:12:26 > 0:12:29though some people are known to have better luck.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32So I know the Royals love to eat salmon,
0:12:32 > 0:12:35so I've also heard they like to fish for salmon.
0:12:35 > 0:12:37I do know that they're very much into their salmon fishing.
0:12:37 > 0:12:38They've got properties right beside
0:12:38 > 0:12:41some of the best salmon rivers in Scotland.
0:12:41 > 0:12:42Do you think that's an accident?
0:12:42 > 0:12:46No. It's definitely not, it's definitely not an accident,
0:12:46 > 0:12:48you know, when you are that stature, I want the house here.
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- Why? Because there's a river. - And I like to fish for salmon.
0:12:52 > 0:12:56So, for my first experience of salmon fishing, it's been amazing.
0:12:56 > 0:12:59I mean, I could understand why people would want to come here
0:12:59 > 0:13:01and get lost for a day or half a day
0:13:01 > 0:13:03just feeling the kind of beauty around them,
0:13:03 > 0:13:07but also the fabulous experience of every splash of a salmon passing by.
0:13:07 > 0:13:09- It is wonderful.- It is.
0:13:10 > 0:13:12It may not have been a catch fit for royalty,
0:13:12 > 0:13:15but the river has cast its spell on our chef.
0:13:18 > 0:13:20I just knew she wasn't going to catch a fish, didn't you?
0:13:20 > 0:13:23It's not that she did it badly, they're camera shy.
0:13:23 > 0:13:25Absolutely.
0:13:25 > 0:13:27Well, clearly Anna's fish is here.
0:13:27 > 0:13:29This is the one that got away.
0:13:31 > 0:13:34- These menu cards, Paul, from several coronations.- Yeah.
0:13:34 > 0:13:38Show that the same dishes crop up time and time again,
0:13:38 > 0:13:39salmon particularly.
0:13:39 > 0:13:43Here's the Queen's father, George VI, his coronation, 1937.
0:13:43 > 0:13:47- Yeah.- Rosettes de saumon a l'Ecossais.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49Scottish salmon, obviously.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53- Yeah, yeah.- Second course, the same, for the Queen's coronation,
0:13:53 > 0:13:55rosettes de saumon Edinburgh.
0:13:55 > 0:13:58It must be the same thing, only it's obviously some tribute to the
0:13:58 > 0:14:00Duke of Edinburgh, but it's the same thing, isn't it?
0:14:00 > 0:14:01Scottish salmon rosettes.
0:14:01 > 0:14:03Yeah, I think growing up as a kid, like,
0:14:03 > 0:14:07you always associate salmon with the Royal family, you know,
0:14:07 > 0:14:08- like some good... - They fish it, they eat it.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- ..especially amazing Scottish salmon.- But is it easy?
0:14:11 > 0:14:14Yeah, absolutely, and you're going to have a go today as well,
0:14:14 > 0:14:16you're going to help me rather than just watching.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18- OK, come on.- Right, ready?
0:14:18 > 0:14:21Yeah, absolutely. Now, rosettes, noisettes, medallions.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24Rosettes, so basically, rose, so we're going to roll it.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26So I think a very royal thing, very regal.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30So we've got some beautiful Scottish salmon.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32And what we've done is what we call a gravadlax.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34I don't really know what gravadlax is.
0:14:34 > 0:14:35- Scandinavian.- Yeah.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38Because it's a way back in the day before fridges
0:14:38 > 0:14:39- how they would keep fish.- Yeah.
0:14:39 > 0:14:43The recipe is salt, honey and whiskey in this instance.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46It sounds more like curing, it's curing the salmon.
0:14:46 > 0:14:48Absolutely. So it's a great way of preserving,
0:14:48 > 0:14:50basically taking you through the winter.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54It's very simple, it's just equal quantities of sugar,
0:14:54 > 0:14:57some lovely Scottish sea salt,
0:14:57 > 0:14:58beautiful Scottish heather honey
0:14:58 > 0:15:01and then we've got some single malt whiskey.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03And what we've done, we just put equal quantities of salt,
0:15:03 > 0:15:05sugar and then we add in a little bit of honey,
0:15:05 > 0:15:08just a little bit of whiskey, it's not a weighed amount,
0:15:08 > 0:15:09just to make a paste.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11So, we're going to take our salmon.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13- Yeah.- I'm going to cut us a couple of slices.
0:15:13 > 0:15:15- And then I'm going to hand some over to you.- Very thinly.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18Very thin. Because it is cooked,
0:15:18 > 0:15:20but it's cooked with the salt and the sugar.
0:15:20 > 0:15:21Cured rather than cooked I suppose.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25Yeah, no, well, no, it is cooked, so it's like ham.
0:15:26 > 0:15:28So we've just got a couple of slices.
0:15:28 > 0:15:31- You're doing it very carefully. - Like that.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34And what you basically want to do Michael is take the small end here.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- Yeah.- And then just roll it.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40And it's not actually that fiddly, but can you imagine doing this on a
0:15:40 > 0:15:42- banquet scale?- Yeah, this is the thing, you know,
0:15:42 > 0:15:45you're doing this, but if you're doing it for several hundred people,
0:15:45 > 0:15:47presumably they'd do it days and days in advance?
0:15:47 > 0:15:51No, they wouldn't. They wouldn't because you want to get this nice
0:15:51 > 0:15:53and fresh and you wouldn't want it to dry out.
0:15:53 > 0:15:58So, we're just rolling them up like this and, can you see? Rosette.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01- Yeah.- It basically resembles. - It looks like a rose.- A little rose.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- Yeah.- And then just, these are like petals at the top,
0:16:03 > 0:16:05just pull them out like that.
0:16:05 > 0:16:06Right, do you want to have a go?
0:16:06 > 0:16:09- Can you trust me with that knife? - Absolutely.- With this lovely salmon.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12It's very sharp but I'll watch over you.
0:16:12 > 0:16:14- All right. - I'll just get my finger in it!
0:16:14 > 0:16:16Yeah, just the salmon, no fingers!
0:16:16 > 0:16:17- No, all right!- All right!
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- Adding in a bit of body, literally! - That's it, that's it, nice and thin.
0:16:21 > 0:16:22Brilliant.
0:16:23 > 0:16:24It's very, very thin.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- All right?- Well, sort of, yeah. I was getting a bit clumsy there.
0:16:28 > 0:16:30And then you roll it up.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33They are slightly thick, so you'd want them to be a bit thinner.
0:16:34 > 0:16:37And then you widen out at the top.
0:16:37 > 0:16:40Yeah, you see, if you go a bit thinner, you get more of a rose.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42But do you know what? That's fantastic.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44THEY LAUGH
0:16:46 > 0:16:47- All right.- Very good.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49- What do you think? - Yeah, they're all right.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52As it's you, we'll let them pass. They're your ones!
0:16:52 > 0:16:54- All right, chef.- You can eat those!
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- Right, moving over here.- Yeah. - Horseradish.- Yeah.- Creme fraiche.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00- Yeah.- The two things go so well together. We're going to add
0:17:00 > 0:17:02all of that in there and we're just going to mix it.
0:17:02 > 0:17:03Is it just a matter of the creme fraiche
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- diluting the power of the horseradish?- Absolutely.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09Creme fraiche, nice and creamy, but it has a wonderful acidity.
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- Yeah.- And that's what goes really nice because that's got...
0:17:12 > 0:17:16That salmon is actually, it's got quite a, almost like a fat taste,
0:17:16 > 0:17:18you know, really nice but quite rich,
0:17:18 > 0:17:20so we just want something to really cut it.
0:17:20 > 0:17:22- With a bit of bite to it.- Absolutely.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25And horseradish also contains wonderful acidity.
0:17:25 > 0:17:26- Yeah.- Which goes really nice.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29Is there a danger that the very powerful horseradish taste
0:17:29 > 0:17:30overwhelms the subtlety of the salmon?
0:17:30 > 0:17:35Not really, because what you want, and like with anything, is balance.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38So you don't want to have too much of one thing,
0:17:38 > 0:17:39you want to balance them out.
0:17:39 > 0:17:41So I've got some wonderful Scottish oatcakes.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43I'm just going to lay them on our plate like so.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46It really is a Scottish dish, isn't it?
0:17:46 > 0:17:47Absolutely.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51- And basically just a little bit.- Oh, you put the horseradish on first?
0:17:51 > 0:17:53Put the horseradish on first because the salmon will sit nice.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55It's a nice little surprise.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57When you bite into this canape,
0:17:57 > 0:18:01you get a wonderful creamy hit of the horseradish. Like so.
0:18:01 > 0:18:03It's quite simple then, really.
0:18:03 > 0:18:05Now, if you want to grab your rosettes there.
0:18:05 > 0:18:06- Yep.- Grab your rosette there.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- Yeah.- OK and just... - And plop them on the top.
0:18:09 > 0:18:12Literally, like that. Just plonk them on the top.
0:18:12 > 0:18:13No messing around.
0:18:13 > 0:18:17Mine looks an industrial version to yours, doesn't it?
0:18:18 > 0:18:20There we go.
0:18:20 > 0:18:22Mine look like roses, yours look like tulips.
0:18:24 > 0:18:26Right, now take some watercress,
0:18:26 > 0:18:30and again, this isn't here just for show, this is here for flavour.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32Watercress, lovely and peppery.
0:18:32 > 0:18:33My favourite salad.
0:18:33 > 0:18:35And you know what, we're going to get some
0:18:35 > 0:18:38of that lovely heather honey that's in the salmon
0:18:38 > 0:18:40and then just go over our salmon
0:18:40 > 0:18:43so you get this little hit of sweetness, as well when you go over.
0:18:43 > 0:18:45- Shall we dig in?- Yeah.- Let's go.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48- I'm going to have my fat one. - Go on, go for it.- There you go.
0:18:48 > 0:18:49Oh!
0:18:51 > 0:18:52Mm-mm-mm.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56Great, aren't they. A little bit of horseradish.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59Got that lovely texture of the salmon.
0:18:59 > 0:19:01The different textures.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04A bit of sharpness, oh!
0:19:04 > 0:19:07Everything that's in there, you can taste,
0:19:07 > 0:19:09it's all working beautifully together.
0:19:11 > 0:19:15You can actually taste... You can certainly taste the honey.
0:19:15 > 0:19:16Bit of a flavour of whiskey?
0:19:16 > 0:19:19Yes, they're as current now as they were then.
0:19:19 > 0:19:20And that is absolutely delicious.
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- Keep talking.- Go for it! Go for it!
0:19:25 > 0:19:28You're enjoying that, aren't you, Michael?
0:19:28 > 0:19:30That's good. Excellent.
0:19:31 > 0:19:35Delicate rosettes of salmon, not too showy or extravagant,
0:19:35 > 0:19:37a change in style,
0:19:37 > 0:19:41and symbolic of a different way of celebrating royal coronations.
0:19:46 > 0:19:52June 2nd 1953 witnessed a unique event - a televised coronation.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56It was the first major live broadcast shown across the country,
0:19:56 > 0:19:58and 27-million people tuned in.
0:19:59 > 0:20:01The nation came to a standstill,
0:20:01 > 0:20:04friends and families flocked to the homes which had one of these
0:20:04 > 0:20:05new television sets.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09One of those watching was Judith Patten,
0:20:09 > 0:20:10the daughter of Marguerite,
0:20:10 > 0:20:12television personality
0:20:12 > 0:20:16and one of the most influential cooks in British history.
0:20:16 > 0:20:18Welcome to Woman In The Home.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22In this programme, we have a wide variety of items,
0:20:22 > 0:20:25so I feel sure there's something to interest every one of you.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27Judith and historian Doctor Polly Russell
0:20:27 > 0:20:31are going back in time to cook the dish Marguerite created
0:20:31 > 0:20:35for home cooks to serve as they watched the pageant on television.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39And where better to cook than in a house decorated with '50s flair.
0:20:39 > 0:20:43- Oh, my goodness! - Gosh! This is amazing.
0:20:43 > 0:20:44It really is, isn't it?
0:20:44 > 0:20:47Is this reminiscent of your own home in the '50s?
0:20:47 > 0:20:50No, we were a little more calmed down.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52But this is incredible.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56- This is, sort of, like, intense '50s, isn't it?- It is.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59Judith has only distant memories of the day,
0:20:59 > 0:21:03the table groaning with food, and minute images on the television.
0:21:03 > 0:21:06Imagine we're looking at that tiny television,
0:21:06 > 0:21:09so you're watching dinky little things,
0:21:09 > 0:21:13the size of Dinky toys going past. With rain.
0:21:13 > 0:21:16I think, probably, eating would have been a good thing to do.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18Your mother, two weeks before the coronation,
0:21:18 > 0:21:23used the television programme to present a meal which she suggested
0:21:23 > 0:21:26viewers could cook a day in advance of the coronation
0:21:26 > 0:21:30and then have ready to serve on the day and actually eat
0:21:30 > 0:21:34while watching the television so that nobody had to miss anything.
0:21:34 > 0:21:39Looking at the menu that she produced, I would have, I think,
0:21:39 > 0:21:43eaten the cheese straws, there was coronation chicken,
0:21:43 > 0:21:45but I think I would have turned my nose up at that.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49But she also had got an avocado dip, and God only knows what...
0:21:49 > 0:21:53So it's a kind of menu that was very much a kind of special buffet
0:21:53 > 0:21:57for this amazing day. Sort of really a banquet in the home.
0:21:57 > 0:21:59For a whole nation.
0:21:59 > 0:22:02It's very telling of its time, sort of, melon balls...
0:22:02 > 0:22:04Oh, melon balls, those are good.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09- I can do those.- You can do a Patten special?- Oh, yes.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13Marguerite played a vital role in improving British cooking
0:22:13 > 0:22:14after the war.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18Her coronation menu typically mixed traditional favourites
0:22:18 > 0:22:19with exotic delicacies.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22We're going to try and replicate some of the food that your
0:22:22 > 0:22:25mother cooked for the coronation in 1953.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- Right.- We've got some of the ingredients here.
0:22:27 > 0:22:31Avocados, obviously, featured for your mum, didn't they?
0:22:31 > 0:22:34They did, because in the very first book she ever wrote for Harrods,
0:22:34 > 0:22:37which I think was sort of '47, '48.
0:22:37 > 0:22:39You opened it up,
0:22:39 > 0:22:42there on the very first page of recipes is an avocado recipe.
0:22:42 > 0:22:47It's really interesting, because my, sort of, my imagination of the 1950s
0:22:47 > 0:22:49is that avocados would have been pretty rare.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51Avocado-free zone.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53We're going to make the melon cocktail that your mother served,
0:22:53 > 0:22:56we're also going to make the seafood-rice ramekin as well.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- Right.- You are going to teach me how to ball in melon.
0:22:59 > 0:23:02- For a melon cocktail.- Right, OK.
0:23:02 > 0:23:06- Right, so we're going to need... - You need a melon. You need a knife.
0:23:06 > 0:23:08You've made quite a big play about the melon balls, Judith.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11I should learn to keep quiet.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13So we've got a melon baller for you here.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15Right. This is a beautifully ripe melon.
0:23:15 > 0:23:21You press firmly in, you prey, you turn, and,
0:23:21 > 0:23:25- hey presto, a ball. - That is fantastic.
0:23:25 > 0:23:29Wartime rationing was still in force in 1953,
0:23:29 > 0:23:32but Marguerite's recipes were cleverly designed
0:23:32 > 0:23:35to make the smallest luxuries stretch a long way.
0:23:35 > 0:23:39In the 1950s, you know, to serve this for a coronation, you know,
0:23:39 > 0:23:44it's nice and light, and is not exactly, sort of, revolutionary.
0:23:44 > 0:23:46But nevertheless, if you've been used to a, kind of,
0:23:46 > 0:23:51stodgy food of wartime austerity Britain, very pleasant.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53I mean, who taught you this?
0:23:53 > 0:23:54I think it was a bit like mother's milk.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57- It just came on board. - Really?- Yes.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59Let me just see if I can do it.
0:23:59 > 0:24:03- You go for it. - It isn't as easy as it seems.- No.
0:24:03 > 0:24:06- I suddenly feel...- I was feeling quite smug, and yet now...
0:24:06 > 0:24:09I've got a flat-bottomed ball.
0:24:09 > 0:24:12- There's a dance that goes with that! - Flat-bottomed ball!
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- Shall I start putting them on the glass?- Yeah.
0:24:14 > 0:24:18- Do you want to do the orange? - OK.- I think just...
0:24:19 > 0:24:22With her coronation cuisine Marguerite was, perhaps,
0:24:22 > 0:24:25unwittingly creating the first TV dinner.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29Now we're going to make a seafood-rice ramekin.
0:24:29 > 0:24:32Do you want to put that into the ramekins
0:24:32 > 0:24:35- and it has breadcrumbs over the top.- Right.
0:24:35 > 0:24:39A mixture of crab meat, prawns and rice with cream and mayonnaise,
0:24:39 > 0:24:43this was a dish designed to be made in advance and eaten hot or cold
0:24:43 > 0:24:45whilst watching the big event.
0:24:45 > 0:24:48It looks delicious. On with the breadcrumbs.
0:24:48 > 0:24:51- These look fabulous, don't they? - Yes, they do.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54I think that is a fitting tribute to your mother, and also, you know,
0:24:54 > 0:24:57it does say something about the food of that time.
0:24:57 > 0:25:01You know, that actually is a classic example as well
0:25:01 > 0:25:04of just how you would take very simple ingredients,
0:25:04 > 0:25:07and you produce something that really looks pretty.
0:25:07 > 0:25:08Yeah. It's lovely.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13Not everyone was watching the coronation on TV screens.
0:25:13 > 0:25:15Some had an even better view,
0:25:15 > 0:25:18as one former choirboy recalls.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24Martin Neary, here, was actually at the coronation.
0:25:24 > 0:25:28You were 13 years old and a chorister at the service.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30One of the Chapel Royal choristers.
0:25:30 > 0:25:32What can you remember about that day? How did it start?
0:25:32 > 0:25:36Well, it started, I perhaps should begin, with the night before,
0:25:36 > 0:25:39because we actually were brought back to London
0:25:39 > 0:25:43to go and sleep on the floor of the chapel
0:25:43 > 0:25:46so that we would be able to be present early in the morning,
0:25:46 > 0:25:49and not worry about the thronging crowds preventing us getting there.
0:25:49 > 0:25:53What I do remember was that we were given a very good breakfast,
0:25:53 > 0:25:55eggs and bacon in the chapel.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59And that was meant to keep us going for the next six hours,
0:25:59 > 0:26:03because we left St James's Palace at 7.30 in the morning,
0:26:03 > 0:26:06to go up to Westminster Abbey where we had a practice.
0:26:06 > 0:26:09And then we had quite a long wait
0:26:09 > 0:26:13because the processions took an enormous time to get through.
0:26:13 > 0:26:17And we, actually, sang the litany and procession
0:26:17 > 0:26:19at about 10.30.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21So that was two-and-a-half hours later.
0:26:21 > 0:26:22And the service still hadn't begun.
0:26:22 > 0:26:24And you couldn't take any snacks or anything like that
0:26:24 > 0:26:27- to keep your strength up? - No. They were forbidden.
0:26:27 > 0:26:28One or two people may have sneaked something in,
0:26:28 > 0:26:30but I'm not too sure.
0:26:30 > 0:26:34We certainly didn't. What we were given were glucose tablets,
0:26:34 > 0:26:36which were very much the flavour of the month in those days.
0:26:36 > 0:26:38What is your memory of the service?
0:26:38 > 0:26:40The outstanding memory, very briefly?
0:26:40 > 0:26:44The outstanding memory of being present at this historic occasion,
0:26:44 > 0:26:46never to be forgotten, having a wonderful view...
0:26:46 > 0:26:49We were positioned in the galleries so that we could see
0:26:49 > 0:26:50the Queen coming through,
0:26:50 > 0:26:56going up to the altar, seeing the crowning of Her Majesty.
0:26:56 > 0:26:58And to be present for that was just unique, really.
0:26:58 > 0:26:59And what about afterwards?
0:26:59 > 0:27:03After this huge, long service and all that you'd done.
0:27:03 > 0:27:07Did you get a chance to join in with the coronation meal,
0:27:07 > 0:27:09with the coronation chicken?
0:27:09 > 0:27:10No. We didn't actually.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13I heard later that the men had been offered the chance
0:27:13 > 0:27:15of having a buffet lunch at Church House,
0:27:15 > 0:27:17which they had to pay a pound.
0:27:17 > 0:27:21But we were just driven back to Saint James's Palace, actually,
0:27:21 > 0:27:22en route, via The Mall,
0:27:22 > 0:27:25where we were able to see the royal processions, which was lovely.
0:27:25 > 0:27:30When we got back to the chapel we were able then to receive medals.
0:27:30 > 0:27:31But no food?
0:27:31 > 0:27:35But we had to wait until we got home for more sustenance.
0:27:35 > 0:27:37Are you a bit aggrieved about that?
0:27:37 > 0:27:40Do you know? I don't think it occurred to us.
0:27:40 > 0:27:44We'd actually experienced something quite unique. I was, really,
0:27:44 > 0:27:46totally enamoured with the music.
0:27:46 > 0:27:48And still, when I conduct things now,
0:27:48 > 0:27:51I think back to those occasions when I play those pieces,
0:27:51 > 0:27:54of that moment when the Queen came in
0:27:54 > 0:27:56and we hear the first notes of I Was Glad of Parry,
0:27:56 > 0:27:59and it takes you back 63 years.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01- Still?- It still does.
0:28:01 > 0:28:04A coronation chicken might have done too, you know?
0:28:04 > 0:28:08Well, I'm glad to say that I have sampled coronation chicken since,
0:28:08 > 0:28:10but that was when I was considerably older.
0:28:10 > 0:28:12Martin Neary, thanks very much.
0:28:14 > 0:28:19When it comes to extravagance, few monarchs can compete with George IV,
0:28:19 > 0:28:22his coronation banquet was arguably the most
0:28:22 > 0:28:24over-the-top feast ever held.
0:28:28 > 0:28:31Historian Doctor Matthew Green is treading in the footsteps of this,
0:28:31 > 0:28:34the most famous Royal eater.
0:28:34 > 0:28:36Supposedly known as Old Naughty,
0:28:36 > 0:28:39Prince George finally got his hands on power when his father,
0:28:39 > 0:28:43George III, descended into his final spell of madness in 1811.
0:28:43 > 0:28:47At his beloved Royal Pavilion in Brighton, the Prince Regent had a
0:28:47 > 0:28:50reputation for laying on the most extravagant banquets.
0:28:50 > 0:28:55So it's no surprise his coronation was the biggest feast in history.
0:28:55 > 0:28:57- Hi, David.- Hello.- How are you? - Very well, thank you.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00- What a fantastic place. - Isn't it astonishing?
0:29:01 > 0:29:04David Beevers is keeper of the Royal Pavilion,
0:29:04 > 0:29:06and is taking Matt to the grand Banqueting Room
0:29:06 > 0:29:09which gives some idea of George's dining habits.
0:29:11 > 0:29:14Wow! Look at this. This is...
0:29:14 > 0:29:17You often hear historical buildings described
0:29:17 > 0:29:20as mesmerising and opulent, but this really takes the biscuit.
0:29:20 > 0:29:24Yes, it is one of the most astonishing rooms in England.
0:29:24 > 0:29:28It was finished in about 1818, 1819,
0:29:28 > 0:29:30and is a, sort of,
0:29:30 > 0:29:35monument to George's love of food and overindulgence.
0:29:35 > 0:29:40So to modern sensibilities, this seems almost unimaginably lavish.
0:29:40 > 0:29:42But in George's world, this wasn't, kind of,
0:29:42 > 0:29:44the scene of his most lavish banquet?
0:29:44 > 0:29:46That took place elsewhere, didn't it?
0:29:46 > 0:29:50It did. At Westminster Hall in 1821, after the coronation.
0:29:50 > 0:29:53- So that was his coronation banquet. - A coronation banquet.- 1821.
0:29:53 > 0:29:54He decided not to have it here, why was that?
0:29:54 > 0:29:55Well, because traditionally
0:29:55 > 0:29:58the coronation banquets were held in Westminster Hall.
0:29:58 > 0:29:59But his was the last.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03It was the greatest and most spectacular coronation banquet
0:30:03 > 0:30:04in the whole of English history.
0:30:04 > 0:30:07George turned it into, as here,
0:30:07 > 0:30:11a kind of fantasy vision of the world that he wanted it to be.
0:30:11 > 0:30:16- Expenditure was around £240,000. - £240,000, yes.
0:30:16 > 0:30:19How much in today's money is that roughly equivalent to?
0:30:19 > 0:30:21Well, it's been computed to be about £20 million.
0:30:21 > 0:30:23£20 million!
0:30:23 > 0:30:29Yes, 350 people dined in the hall, and I was a bit puzzled, 350 people,
0:30:29 > 0:30:32but 9,000 bottles of wine were issued.
0:30:32 > 0:30:349,000 bottles of wine? How many is that each?
0:30:34 > 0:30:36Ah, but 350 dined in the hall,
0:30:36 > 0:30:40but 2,000 others dined elsewhere in the Palace of Westminster.
0:30:40 > 0:30:44In the House of Lords, the House of Commons, in various other...
0:30:44 > 0:30:46So there are these meals all over Westminster?
0:30:46 > 0:30:47They were all over the place.
0:30:47 > 0:30:50At the time of George's coronation, Britain was the richest,
0:30:50 > 0:30:52most powerful country in the world.
0:30:52 > 0:30:55- Yes.- And George wanted to make sure that he, as king,
0:30:55 > 0:30:56represented England.
0:30:58 > 0:31:02It's no surprise that George built the very finest kitchen,
0:31:02 > 0:31:06fit for a king, and one of the most famous chefs of all time.
0:31:06 > 0:31:10So here we are in the kitchen. Wow, this is where the magic happened.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14And my first impression of this is that it's quite a show kitchen.
0:31:14 > 0:31:17There is a great sense of space. It's very well lit.
0:31:17 > 0:31:19You've got those beautiful row of windows.
0:31:19 > 0:31:22Up there, it's not as though it's been buried away.
0:31:22 > 0:31:23Is that true? Is it the kind
0:31:23 > 0:31:25of place where people come and watch the cooking?
0:31:25 > 0:31:28It's one of the first show kitchens, and George was very proud of it.
0:31:28 > 0:31:30George himself, when he was the Regent,
0:31:30 > 0:31:33or even when he was the king, would he have come down here?
0:31:33 > 0:31:36He famously came here on one, and possibly two occasions,
0:31:36 > 0:31:39a red carpet was put on the floor...
0:31:39 > 0:31:40They laid a red carpet?
0:31:40 > 0:31:43They laid a carpet and his chefs and scullions served him.
0:31:43 > 0:31:48There was, for a time, a celebrity chef who worked here as well?
0:31:49 > 0:31:51- Who was he?- Marie-Antoine Careme.
0:31:51 > 0:31:53He liked to be called Antonin Careme.
0:31:53 > 0:31:56The most famous chef of all time, probably.
0:31:56 > 0:31:57The first celebrity chef.
0:31:57 > 0:32:01So he was, if you like, the Jamie Oliver of the 19th century.
0:32:01 > 0:32:06Yes, absolutely. He was recruited in Paris, by the Prince Regent...
0:32:06 > 0:32:09So he was quite a catch, to get this celebrity chef.
0:32:09 > 0:32:11Absolutely. Netted this man who cooked for Napoleon.
0:32:11 > 0:32:12Cooked for the Tsar of Russia.
0:32:12 > 0:32:16It didn't work out in the long term, he only lasted about a year?
0:32:16 > 0:32:18No, he was here less than a year.
0:32:18 > 0:32:22What went wrong, is partly the Pavilion was a building site,
0:32:22 > 0:32:24it rained most of the time he was here.
0:32:24 > 0:32:28So he was working in a rain-lashed building site, not very nice.
0:32:28 > 0:32:33But the main reason he went back to France was he was homesick.
0:32:33 > 0:32:35George may have lost his star chef,
0:32:35 > 0:32:37but his love of food grew and grew.
0:32:37 > 0:32:41His weight reached 20st and his waist 50 inches.
0:32:41 > 0:32:45I've got here an account from the Duke of Wellington
0:32:45 > 0:32:47about George's almost last meal.
0:32:47 > 0:32:50And this is just a week or so before he died.
0:32:50 > 0:32:52This is what he had for breakfast.
0:32:52 > 0:32:53Two pigeons.
0:32:53 > 0:32:54Three beef steaks.
0:32:54 > 0:32:57Three quarters of a bottle of Mosel.
0:32:57 > 0:32:59A glass of champagne.
0:32:59 > 0:33:01Two glasses of port and a glass of brandy.
0:33:01 > 0:33:03- For breakfast.- Wow!
0:33:03 > 0:33:07Now, one can either say what gross extravagance, or one could say,
0:33:07 > 0:33:10what an appetite for life the man had.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12If that was for breakfast, I dread to think what he had for dinner.
0:33:12 > 0:33:13Well...
0:33:15 > 0:33:18The legacy of George's love of food lives on.
0:33:18 > 0:33:22100-years later, Buckingham Palace kitchen maid Mildred Nicholls
0:33:22 > 0:33:25has recipes by royal chef Careme in her notebook,
0:33:25 > 0:33:30including this rich desert, creme a la Careme,
0:33:30 > 0:33:32a likely favourite of the gourmand king.
0:33:33 > 0:33:35Not exactly a picky eater, was he?
0:33:35 > 0:33:37Far from it. Far from it.
0:33:37 > 0:33:41- Death by knife and fork...and glass, I would imagine.- Absolutely.
0:33:41 > 0:33:43But he was ahead of the game with his French chef, wasn't he?
0:33:43 > 0:33:45Monsieur Careme.
0:33:45 > 0:33:47I think he invented haute cuisine.
0:33:47 > 0:33:51So it's no surprise, really, that some of his recipes actually
0:33:51 > 0:33:54feature in this wonderful old recipe book from the kitchen maid
0:33:54 > 0:33:57at Buckingham Palace, Mildred Nicholls.
0:33:57 > 0:34:01And here we are, you know, in her fountain pen, you know,
0:34:01 > 0:34:02the spelling's not very good.
0:34:02 > 0:34:05But creme a la Careme.
0:34:05 > 0:34:07Not much detail here, though, is there?
0:34:07 > 0:34:10- There's not.- Is there something there for you to build on?
0:34:10 > 0:34:14Hugely. And I'm so excited about showing you this dish.
0:34:14 > 0:34:17Right, so what we've got is, we've got some lovely sponge fingers,
0:34:17 > 0:34:19and orange jelly. That's the first part of this dish.
0:34:19 > 0:34:21So what we're going to do, Michael,
0:34:21 > 0:34:24is just dip the fingers into the jelly.
0:34:24 > 0:34:27And they basically... We build those around the edge.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29You can see I've started some already.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31They're like soldiers, aren't they? Around the edge there.
0:34:31 > 0:34:35They are. They're lovely. And the jelly just soaks into the sponge.
0:34:35 > 0:34:37And that really is our base that's going to, like,
0:34:37 > 0:34:38sit right the way around.
0:34:38 > 0:34:40This is not going to be Weight Watchers dish of the
0:34:40 > 0:34:42- week, is it?- Not this one, no.
0:34:42 > 0:34:44This really is a great dinner party dish,
0:34:44 > 0:34:46because it's got such a wow factor.
0:34:46 > 0:34:48And this jelly's not complicated.
0:34:48 > 0:34:51This is just the package jelly, you know, the stuff you had as a kid.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53That I would eat raw.
0:34:53 > 0:34:55Before it was in jelly, like it was sweets.
0:34:55 > 0:34:58And you, a Michelin-starred chef, are admitting this, are you?
0:34:58 > 0:35:00- You are getting your jelly out of a packet?- Absolutely.
0:35:00 > 0:35:03What other... No, I'd better not ask you what other short cuts you do.
0:35:03 > 0:35:07No. We've got these lovely fingers going all the way around.
0:35:07 > 0:35:08Now, with the excess orange jelly,
0:35:08 > 0:35:11- we're just going to pour that into the base.- Yeah.
0:35:12 > 0:35:14So when we turn it out,
0:35:14 > 0:35:17we're going to have this wonderful set jelly on top.
0:35:17 > 0:35:20It really has got a wonderful wow factor to it.
0:35:20 > 0:35:22And now just add a bit more indulgence.
0:35:22 > 0:35:24We're going to add some kirsch.
0:35:24 > 0:35:26Just with a brush. Gently up the side.
0:35:26 > 0:35:28You're going to brush it, you're not going to slosh it on?
0:35:28 > 0:35:30No, that lovely orange working around.
0:35:30 > 0:35:32And we've got that lovely kirsch working
0:35:32 > 0:35:34right in to the sponge like that.
0:35:34 > 0:35:37- Lovely.- OK. And it's so lovely, orange.
0:35:37 > 0:35:39That lovely cherry, light liquor.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42Beautiful. Now if I could just give you that, Michael.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44We're just going to set that in the fridge.
0:35:44 > 0:35:47- OK.- And while you're gone, I'm going to start the creme anglaise.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50- I'll be back in two ticks. - Excellent.
0:35:57 > 0:35:58Now, this is what I'd call custard, is it?
0:35:58 > 0:36:02- This is custard, exactly. - It doesn't look like custard.
0:36:02 > 0:36:04No, and it's basically not the powdered version,
0:36:04 > 0:36:06we're going to make a proper fresh version.
0:36:06 > 0:36:08- Not out of the packet this time. - Not out of the packet this time!
0:36:08 > 0:36:10Although I do like that as well.
0:36:12 > 0:36:14So in here we're going to have egg yolks.
0:36:14 > 0:36:17- OK.- Straight in like that.
0:36:17 > 0:36:19Sugar.
0:36:19 > 0:36:21- Ordinary sugar? Caster sugar? - Ordinary sugar.
0:36:21 > 0:36:23And then on here we've got vanilla and milk,
0:36:23 > 0:36:25and we're just going to bring that to a boil.
0:36:25 > 0:36:28We're not going to like, scolding boil, just to a simmer.
0:36:28 > 0:36:31Whilst we're doing that, I'm going to take our whisk,
0:36:31 > 0:36:34and very gently... This is important, actually, this bit.
0:36:34 > 0:36:37That you whisk the egg yolks and sugar together
0:36:37 > 0:36:40until they, kind of, go pale.
0:36:40 > 0:36:42And what you are doing, you're just really breaking...
0:36:42 > 0:36:44The colour's actually changing.
0:36:44 > 0:36:46Yes, it's changing as they do it.
0:36:46 > 0:36:48And the more I do it, it will go, like, really, really pale.
0:36:48 > 0:36:50And what you are doing is your beating the sugar,
0:36:50 > 0:36:53almost dissolving it into those egg yolks.
0:36:53 > 0:36:55See how it's going nice and pale?
0:36:56 > 0:36:59Our lovely milk-andvanilla mixture's coming to the boil.
0:36:59 > 0:37:02- So in with our hot liquid.- Yeah.
0:37:02 > 0:37:05Just moving it around, and then we're quickly moving it around.
0:37:05 > 0:37:09Now, what you're doing, is that lovely hot temperature from the milk
0:37:09 > 0:37:11is now starting to cook that egg yolks and sugar.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13- Yeah.- Now we return to the pan.
0:37:15 > 0:37:18And we want all of that lovely vanilla flavouring there.
0:37:18 > 0:37:21One of my favourite ingredients, vanilla.
0:37:21 > 0:37:22Back onto the heat.
0:37:23 > 0:37:26And what we're going to do, we want to cook that the egg yolks,
0:37:26 > 0:37:29and we're going to take the egg yolks, probably through about
0:37:29 > 0:37:3075, 80 degrees.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33And what happens is they then start to set,
0:37:33 > 0:37:35and that's how the custard thickens.
0:37:35 > 0:37:38And also we cook out that lovely egg-yolk mixture.
0:37:38 > 0:37:40Now, here I've got gelatine.
0:37:40 > 0:37:43And what we're going to do, we're just going to add that in,
0:37:43 > 0:37:47pull it off heat now. And just let it dissolve.
0:37:47 > 0:37:49Can you see how thick that custard's becoming?
0:37:49 > 0:37:51Just instantly, really, isn't it?
0:37:51 > 0:37:53And once that cools down,
0:37:53 > 0:37:57our custard's going to really set and just become almost like what the
0:37:57 > 0:38:00French would call creme patissier. Like a really thick custard.
0:38:00 > 0:38:01Yes, I know that term.
0:38:01 > 0:38:05- What we do now, we just pass that... - Oh, right.
0:38:05 > 0:38:09- So the pods, the vanilla pods. - Just the pods.
0:38:09 > 0:38:12And as you see, because we've kept an eye on it,
0:38:12 > 0:38:14because we kept moving it, nothing's coagulated,
0:38:14 > 0:38:16there no lumps or anything.
0:38:16 > 0:38:18Now we just transfer that over here.
0:38:18 > 0:38:20I've got one here that we've done.
0:38:20 > 0:38:23And as you can see, it's gone lovely and thick.
0:38:23 > 0:38:26- All right.- Oh, yes.- So we're just going to bring that back.
0:38:30 > 0:38:32Here we've got some candied orange.
0:38:32 > 0:38:33We're going to add that.
0:38:35 > 0:38:39All in. And that will just start to infuse into the custard as well.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42Orange and custard, they are so delicious together.
0:38:43 > 0:38:45We're going to fold back through.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49It looks like costume jewellery, doesn't it?
0:38:49 > 0:38:52Absolutely lovely. So we're just going to get those out of here.
0:38:52 > 0:38:54Now we're going to move over to spooning the cream in.
0:38:54 > 0:38:55Just get that cream in.
0:38:55 > 0:38:57You do a lot of spooning the cream in, don't you, really?
0:38:57 > 0:38:59We do. We do.
0:39:00 > 0:39:02Just a bit. In fact, do you want to spoon it in for me?
0:39:02 > 0:39:05And I'm just going to stir it in gently.
0:39:05 > 0:39:08- You want some more in? - Yeah, go for it.
0:39:08 > 0:39:10We're just doing it gently, because we don't want,
0:39:10 > 0:39:12we don't want to lose the body in the cream.
0:39:12 > 0:39:14What we've done there, Michael,
0:39:14 > 0:39:16we've whipped it to what we call just past, like, a yoghurt stage.
0:39:16 > 0:39:18- Yes.- Like the thickness of yoghurt.
0:39:18 > 0:39:22- Keep going.- Yeah. There's a lot of air in it.- Absolutely.
0:39:22 > 0:39:26And we want to keep that volume in there so it stays nice and light.
0:39:26 > 0:39:29And this is, essentially, what you call a bavarois.
0:39:29 > 0:39:32Which is a very, sort of, classic French, kind of...
0:39:32 > 0:39:34More cream than actual custard?
0:39:34 > 0:39:37You'd be like George IV if you ate all this, wouldn't you?
0:39:37 > 0:39:41So, Michael, if you could now go and get me back our tian
0:39:41 > 0:39:43- that we've done earlier.- OK.
0:39:43 > 0:39:46Lovely, in there. Yes, Chef. Thank you very much.
0:39:50 > 0:39:53- No fanfare this time. - Is it nice and set?- Yeah.
0:39:53 > 0:39:55It looks like it. Why do you call it a tian, by the way?
0:39:55 > 0:39:57I thought tian was something different.
0:39:57 > 0:40:00- It's like the mould.- Oh, it means mould, so it could be anything.
0:40:00 > 0:40:05- Yes.- So now we just get... Start to spoon that.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08- Oh.- Lovely mixture. - Glutinous, isn't it?
0:40:08 > 0:40:11And there's no nice way to do this.
0:40:11 > 0:40:14Get it in there. Get it in there!
0:40:14 > 0:40:16And it's going, "Blop!"
0:40:16 > 0:40:20But you know what, as you'll see, when we turn this out,
0:40:20 > 0:40:23you've got your guests, they'll absolutely thank you for it.
0:40:23 > 0:40:25I keep forgetting that you're actually, at the end of the day,
0:40:25 > 0:40:27- just going to turn it over like a proper mould, eh?- Yeah.
0:40:27 > 0:40:28OK. So we've got that in there.
0:40:28 > 0:40:31There's lots of things to get your finger around on this one.
0:40:31 > 0:40:35I'm just going to brush some more kirsch over our sponge.
0:40:35 > 0:40:37It's just absolute indulgence.
0:40:37 > 0:40:39- Don't stint on the kirsch.- No, no.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42And now if we just go underneath there like that.
0:40:42 > 0:40:45- Don't break it. - And just one fell swoop like that.
0:40:47 > 0:40:48- Pat it down a bit.- And that's it.
0:40:48 > 0:40:52Pat it down. A bit more kirsch. Around the layers.
0:40:52 > 0:40:54Like that. It's gorgeous, isn't it?
0:40:54 > 0:40:56So, Michael, if I could just give that to you.
0:40:56 > 0:40:58Pop that in the fridge, and that's going to set.
0:40:58 > 0:41:01- I shall be very careful.- And you should find one that I did earlier.
0:41:01 > 0:41:03- You should.- I might not come back.
0:41:03 > 0:41:05- I'm going to have a little tidy up.- OK!
0:41:09 > 0:41:11Ta-da!
0:41:11 > 0:41:14Yes! Yes! Look at that!
0:41:14 > 0:41:17Well, I say that I hope it's not being held together by this.
0:41:17 > 0:41:19No, I was going to say... Aren't you a bit nervous, you know?
0:41:19 > 0:41:22- I am nervous.- You lift it up and it all goes...
0:41:22 > 0:41:25Are you ready? I feel we should do it together.
0:41:25 > 0:41:27You want to blame me, don't you? If it goes wrong.
0:41:27 > 0:41:31- Right.- Shall I do it? - Yeah. Let's go. Gently. Gently.
0:41:31 > 0:41:35- PAUL CHUCKLES TRIUMPHANTLY - Yes! Look at that!
0:41:35 > 0:41:37Right. Where's the knife?
0:41:37 > 0:41:41Now, tell me. That is proper regal, isn't it? That is royal.
0:41:41 > 0:41:43Proper regal, I don't know.
0:41:43 > 0:41:47- Would you serve that to the Queen? - Moment of truth, are you ready?
0:41:47 > 0:41:50I'm going to cut a slice, you grab the plates.
0:41:50 > 0:41:54So we've taken a nice warm knife, take a lovely wedge.
0:41:54 > 0:41:56WET SLICING
0:41:57 > 0:41:58Oh, I love that sound.
0:42:04 > 0:42:06It's nice and solid, isn't it?
0:42:06 > 0:42:09Oh, it's... Yeah. But not over set.
0:42:09 > 0:42:11And you know what, for a really nice setting time...
0:42:11 > 0:42:13Oh-ho-ho-ho!
0:42:13 > 0:42:16In fact, do you know what? We're not going to muck about.
0:42:16 > 0:42:17We're going to stand it up.
0:42:18 > 0:42:21- Look at that.- Just a slight wobble.
0:42:21 > 0:42:23And that's exactly what you want.
0:42:23 > 0:42:25You can just see that cream's nice and light.
0:42:25 > 0:42:28I would recommend setting that overnight.
0:42:28 > 0:42:31One, the flavours develop, and two, everything just settles,
0:42:31 > 0:42:33and it will just set beautifully.
0:42:33 > 0:42:35And you watch how light that is in the mouth.
0:42:35 > 0:42:36It's... I can't wait...
0:42:36 > 0:42:40- Let's dig in! Come on! - Can we eat it?- Let's go, let's go!
0:42:40 > 0:42:42- That spectacular, isn't it? - It's wonderful.
0:42:42 > 0:42:46I promise you, it's not like rubber, it's soft and beautiful.
0:42:46 > 0:42:48- Can I eat the thing now? - Go! Get in there.
0:42:48 > 0:42:50You stop talking and we can eat.
0:42:50 > 0:42:52- Now, can I take it from this end? - You do whatever you like.
0:42:55 > 0:42:58Go on. I won't do it until you have a bit as well.
0:43:01 > 0:43:02- Ready.- Yeah.
0:43:04 > 0:43:06Mm-mm-mm.
0:43:06 > 0:43:09- That's good, no?- We're off now.
0:43:09 > 0:43:10- Yeah.- I'm having that.
0:43:10 > 0:43:15That's the end of our celebration of coronations.
0:43:16 > 0:43:17See you next time.
0:43:17 > 0:43:20Right, what are you having?
0:43:20 > 0:43:21This one here.