Country Pursuits

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03The Royal Family are steeped in tradition,

0:00:03 > 0:00:05and throughout history the royal tables have

0:00:05 > 0:00:07showcased culinary excellence.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'

0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe

0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.

0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and past...'

0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20'We recreate old family favourites.'

0:00:20 > 0:00:24Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.

0:00:24 > 0:00:26What a mess.

0:00:26 > 0:00:29'We sample royal eating alfresco...'

0:00:29 > 0:00:31- Wow.- That is what you want.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times.'

0:00:34 > 0:00:37Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon,

0:00:37 > 0:00:40oysters and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.

0:00:40 > 0:00:41Unbelievable.

0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.

0:00:46 > 0:00:51Hello. I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:00:51 > 0:00:52This is Audley End,

0:00:52 > 0:00:57magnificent stately home built in the style of a royal palace,

0:00:57 > 0:00:59and a former home of King Charles II.

0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,

0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,

0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.

0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here, with this gem,

0:01:13 > 0:01:15a royal kitchen maid's cookbook,

0:01:15 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the royal archive.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,

0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.

0:01:25 > 0:01:27Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,

0:01:27 > 0:01:30who worked at Buckingham Palace

0:01:30 > 0:01:32in the early 1900s.

0:01:32 > 0:01:34And for the first time in over 100 years,

0:01:34 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.

0:01:43 > 0:01:46This time we cook food that reflects the royal family's love

0:01:46 > 0:01:47of the countryside.

0:01:47 > 0:01:50From their hunting, shooting and fishing pursuits,

0:01:50 > 0:01:53to their enjoyment of rich, rural flavours.

0:01:53 > 0:01:55Right, so...

0:01:55 > 0:01:57'Today in the Royal Recipes kitchen,

0:01:57 > 0:01:59'chef Anna Haugh tries sausage making,

0:01:59 > 0:02:03'using the Queen's favourite meat, pheasant.'

0:02:03 > 0:02:05You might be lucky to get a cocktail sausage.

0:02:05 > 0:02:07It's quite a process, and quite an art, I think.

0:02:07 > 0:02:13Lord Iveagh shows Dr Matt Green the rich history of a shooting estate,

0:02:13 > 0:02:17created by a maharaja and adored by royalty.

0:02:17 > 0:02:19- So George there. - That's right. King George.

0:02:19 > 0:02:21- And the Queen. - Wow.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24And we follow Prince Charles's example

0:02:24 > 0:02:26and go foraging for mushrooms.

0:02:28 > 0:02:29That's worth picking.

0:02:32 > 0:02:34In the kitchen wing of this glorious stately home,

0:02:34 > 0:02:37we start our celebration of the royals' country pursuits

0:02:37 > 0:02:40with a recipe from the early days of the Queen's reign,

0:02:40 > 0:02:43and a firm favourite with the Queen mother.

0:02:43 > 0:02:45Hello and welcome to the grand kitchen.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48With me, Anna Haugh, top chef at a London restaurant...

0:02:48 > 0:02:49WHISPERED: ..where the young royals go.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51Yes, they do from time to time.

0:02:51 > 0:02:56Down the ages, most of our kings and queens have been country lovers,

0:02:56 > 0:02:59and when it comes to eating, they are really fond of game.

0:02:59 > 0:03:00What are you going to do for us today?

0:03:00 > 0:03:02Well, I don't blame them. I love game myself.

0:03:02 > 0:03:05And today I'm actually going to make a royal recipe.

0:03:05 > 0:03:07This is a recipe from the Queen Mother's cook,

0:03:07 > 0:03:09and it's galantine of game.

0:03:09 > 0:03:10- Galantine?- Galantine.

0:03:10 > 0:03:14So galantine usually would be like a kind of sausage-shaped, kind of, um,

0:03:14 > 0:03:16type of terrine.

0:03:16 > 0:03:18- Cylindrical rather than square. - Yes.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21But today I'm going to keep with the traditional terrine mould,

0:03:21 > 0:03:23just because it's easier to kind of shape it.

0:03:23 > 0:03:27So I've lightly cooked off pheasant and partridge breasts here and then

0:03:27 > 0:03:31the legs I've just kind of pulsed in a blender while they were raw.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34And I'm going to mix it with a little bit of sausage meat

0:03:34 > 0:03:36- and then pack it in nice and tightly.- Wow.

0:03:36 > 0:03:39So, first of all, I'm just going to give these a bit of a slice.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42You want to kind of cut them about a centimetre thick.

0:03:42 > 0:03:45- Yeah.- So that we can nicely line it up on top.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47- Mm-hm.- I mean, they're still slightly warm, these are.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49I'm sure you can still kind of smell them. There's a lovely kind of...

0:03:49 > 0:03:52- I didn't even smell them. - ..like a mild... Yes, go on.

0:03:52 > 0:03:53- Sorry.- Get in there.- Oh.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57- Yeah. Yeah.- It's lovely, game.

0:03:57 > 0:03:59- Yeah.- Isn't it?- But if you're not a fan of game, this actually...

0:03:59 > 0:04:01- Could you do it with chicken?- Yeah.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03Originally, this would have been done with chicken.

0:04:03 > 0:04:06But, I mean, when you live in a country like the UK,

0:04:06 > 0:04:08there's some of the best game in the world.

0:04:08 > 0:04:11- Mm-hm.- And I think it's a great shame that once it's in season

0:04:11 > 0:04:13that we don't kind of avail of it.

0:04:13 > 0:04:17But, yes, if you wanted to use chicken, you could.

0:04:17 > 0:04:19Actually it's very good for using a little bit of leftovers as well.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21So if you had your roast kind of chicken

0:04:21 > 0:04:24you could do that with a little bit of sausage meat

0:04:24 > 0:04:25and you could pack it in.

0:04:25 > 0:04:27OK, I'm going to start...

0:04:27 > 0:04:29But this is a royal recipe.

0:04:29 > 0:04:30No chicken here.

0:04:30 > 0:04:32This is a royal recipe. That's exactly right.

0:04:32 > 0:04:34OK, so I'm going to mix the two meats here together.

0:04:34 > 0:04:37- Mm-hm.- It's pretty simple.

0:04:37 > 0:04:39But you just want to make sure that it's completely combined.

0:04:39 > 0:04:41Tell me, why the sausage meat?

0:04:41 > 0:04:44The sausage meat is a good kind of filler

0:04:44 > 0:04:46and the flavour of the pork meat

0:04:46 > 0:04:48is very nice. Then we're going to wrap it in bacon

0:04:48 > 0:04:51as well so, it kind of all gels in very nicely together.

0:04:51 > 0:04:54So just give it a good mix so that it's

0:04:54 > 0:04:57nice and evenly kind of distributed.

0:04:57 > 0:04:59The sausage meat that I have is from a local butcher.

0:04:59 > 0:05:01- Mm-hm. - It's already kind of seasoned.

0:05:01 > 0:05:04Mm-hm. And it's a bit fattier, obviously, than game, isn't it?

0:05:04 > 0:05:05It is. Actually, you're right,

0:05:05 > 0:05:07there's a good fat content in the sausage meat,

0:05:07 > 0:05:10which gives a good richness to the galantine.

0:05:10 > 0:05:13In the olden days, would they have wrapped it in bacon like that?

0:05:13 > 0:05:15They may not have, no, actually.

0:05:15 > 0:05:17They probably would have just

0:05:17 > 0:05:19had this in a cylindrical mould so it looks

0:05:19 > 0:05:20like a large sausage.

0:05:20 > 0:05:24And then they would have sliced it and set it in gelatine, or aspic,

0:05:24 > 0:05:26or possibly set the entire one in aspic as well,

0:05:26 > 0:05:28if they were going to slice it later.

0:05:28 > 0:05:30They absolutely loved aspic, didn't they?

0:05:30 > 0:05:33They did love aspic, and I think because we don't use it any more

0:05:33 > 0:05:35it seems kind of bizarre to us,

0:05:35 > 0:05:37but it was a method of how you preserved it

0:05:37 > 0:05:39because it stopped the oxygen getting into the meat.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41- It was a preservative more than anything else?- Yes, yes.

0:05:41 > 0:05:43I like the taste of it. Why's it gone out of fashion?

0:05:43 > 0:05:45I don't know, because I don't like the taste of it.

0:05:45 > 0:05:47So, uh...

0:05:47 > 0:05:49- Maybe it's us cooks that have... - Yeah, yeah.

0:05:49 > 0:05:51..signed its death warrant.

0:05:51 > 0:05:52There's a little bit more in there.

0:05:54 > 0:05:55OK.

0:05:55 > 0:05:57And then...

0:05:57 > 0:06:01Oh, you're sticking in a layer of the breast in at that stage?

0:06:01 > 0:06:02- Yeah.- The royals would have had

0:06:02 > 0:06:05- lots of pheasants to play with, wouldn't they?- Mm-hm.

0:06:05 > 0:06:07They were so fond of hunting and shooting

0:06:07 > 0:06:09- and fishing and everything. - Yeah, yeah.

0:06:09 > 0:06:14In fact, I think Edward VII bought Sandringham in Norfolk, you know,

0:06:14 > 0:06:16one of the royal households, for its shooting,

0:06:16 > 0:06:19principally for its shooting. And the estate is

0:06:19 > 0:06:20actually laid out as a shooting estate.

0:06:20 > 0:06:22You could imagine that, though.

0:06:22 > 0:06:24Waking up in the morning,

0:06:24 > 0:06:29going out with your team of friends and shooting the game.

0:06:29 > 0:06:31- Yeah.- Bringing it back into a kitchen like this

0:06:31 > 0:06:34and creating recipes like this. I just think it's wonderful.

0:06:34 > 0:06:36I really do. And I think it's a great shame

0:06:36 > 0:06:39that sometimes recipes like this are just kind of

0:06:39 > 0:06:41not as popular as they should be,

0:06:41 > 0:06:44because once you've made this, this is going to last you days.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46- Yeah.- And traditionally this is eaten cold.

0:06:46 > 0:06:49You know, this would be a kind of cold larder starter.

0:06:49 > 0:06:53- Mm-hm.- And I just think although it takes a little bit of time to make

0:06:53 > 0:06:55there's an awful lot of satisfaction to recipes like this.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57And you don't really have to be a royal, do you?

0:06:57 > 0:07:01I mean, the pheasants and partridges and things are, in the season,

0:07:01 > 0:07:03are pretty widely available.

0:07:03 > 0:07:05Absolutely, yeah. I would completely agree.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08- Are they expensive?- I mean, everything's all relative.

0:07:08 > 0:07:12- Mm-hm.- But, no, I would not say it's an exceptionally expensive meat.

0:07:12 > 0:07:14It wouldn't be any more expensive than duck.

0:07:14 > 0:07:16Mm-hm.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19- It's a kind of "vegetarians, look away now".- Yes!

0:07:21 > 0:07:23So, Michael, would you reckon that you'd give this a go?

0:07:23 > 0:07:24I think I could do this.

0:07:24 > 0:07:29- Yeah?- I think I'm an undiscovered cooking talent, actually.

0:07:29 > 0:07:30So I'm going to take the credit of that,

0:07:30 > 0:07:32so when you make your first cookery book

0:07:32 > 0:07:33you've got to dedicate it to me.

0:07:33 > 0:07:34You've done that brilliantly!

0:07:34 > 0:07:37That actually works, right to the last spoonful.

0:07:37 > 0:07:39- Well, Michael... - Was that just your innate skill?

0:07:39 > 0:07:42Just my skill, that's all it comes down to.

0:07:42 > 0:07:44So, I'm going to pack this in lovely and tightly

0:07:44 > 0:07:47to make sure that I don't have any little air pockets.

0:07:47 > 0:07:51- Yeah.- And essentially, that is all the hard work almost done.

0:07:51 > 0:07:53I'm just going to close it up.

0:07:53 > 0:07:55Oh, look, you've left a bit of pheasant.

0:07:55 > 0:07:56Yes, just for you.

0:07:56 > 0:07:59- A little snack.- Mm. - Keep those energy levels up.

0:07:59 > 0:08:00- OK.- Mm-hm.

0:08:00 > 0:08:02I'm going to fold this over...

0:08:03 > 0:08:05..like this.

0:08:05 > 0:08:07And then a few more slices

0:08:07 > 0:08:11just to make sure that there's no bits of mince peeping out.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13Are you sure it's going to stay sealed?

0:08:13 > 0:08:16Yes. Yeah, no, it will, it will all kind of cook together.

0:08:17 > 0:08:19I think I should be able to fold them over now.

0:08:19 > 0:08:21Yeah.

0:08:21 > 0:08:22It does look very neat, doesn't it?

0:08:22 > 0:08:25Yeah. And wait till you see it when I turn it out.

0:08:25 > 0:08:26It's super neat.

0:08:26 > 0:08:28And you could understand, actually,

0:08:28 > 0:08:31why they would set it in the kind of gelatine or the aspic

0:08:31 > 0:08:33when you see this turned out.

0:08:33 > 0:08:37- OK.- OK, so, all I'm going to do now is wrap it in some tinfoil...

0:08:39 > 0:08:40..give it a good kind of

0:08:40 > 0:08:42squeeze all around.

0:08:44 > 0:08:48And then I'm just going to cook it in a tray of hot water and this just

0:08:48 > 0:08:50helps with the kind of even cooking...

0:08:50 > 0:08:52- Right.- ..of the terrine.

0:08:52 > 0:08:53So you need to cook this for about

0:08:53 > 0:08:55an hour and a half at about 160 degrees.

0:08:55 > 0:08:57- Mm-hm.- I'm just going to give my hands a quick wash because I've

0:08:57 > 0:09:02been handling raw meat and I'm just about to reveal how our terrine is

0:09:02 > 0:09:04is going to look, our galantine's going to look.

0:09:04 > 0:09:06A-ha. Oh, I love this bit.

0:09:06 > 0:09:08- Yes. - Can I do the reveal?

0:09:08 > 0:09:11- Yes, please. - One, two, three.

0:09:11 > 0:09:13- SHE GASPS - Ho-ho!

0:09:13 > 0:09:15- Isn't it beautiful? - It's lovely, isn't it?

0:09:15 > 0:09:18- It's beautiful.- What are the shiny bits down the side?

0:09:18 > 0:09:20Yeah, that is the natural kind of gelatine

0:09:20 > 0:09:21that has come out of the meat.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23- Its own aspic? - Yeah, exactly.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25Exactly.

0:09:25 > 0:09:26- So I should carve now? - Yeah.

0:09:26 > 0:09:30Turn it round a bit there. Shall I put the plate there?

0:09:30 > 0:09:32Yes.

0:09:32 > 0:09:34Oh!

0:09:34 > 0:09:35Oh, look at that.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37Yeah. Wouldn't that be lovely,

0:09:37 > 0:09:41just sitting around a table with your friends, a cheeky glass of red.

0:09:41 > 0:09:45- One or two.- Supper for a royal.

0:09:45 > 0:09:47And you'd take it cold like this?

0:09:47 > 0:09:51Yes. Traditionally galantine would have been served cold,

0:09:51 > 0:09:54and balontine, which is almost the same idea,

0:09:54 > 0:09:56but that would be served hot.

0:09:56 > 0:09:57Now, how do we eat this?

0:09:57 > 0:09:59- Do we have it on toast? - On toast, maybe,

0:09:59 > 0:10:02with a little bit of fig chutney could be quite nice.

0:10:02 > 0:10:04- Fig chutney?- Yes.- Ooh-hoo!

0:10:04 > 0:10:07Yeah, I think something with a little bit of kind of sweetness,

0:10:07 > 0:10:08acidity and a bit of spice...

0:10:08 > 0:10:10- Yeah.- ..goes so well with game.

0:10:10 > 0:10:12- Have a knife and fork.- Thank you.

0:10:12 > 0:10:13Right.

0:10:15 > 0:10:17It looks fantastic. I'm going to go from this end.

0:10:17 > 0:10:18- Mm.- Mm-mm-mm.

0:10:18 > 0:10:20Oh, yes, it's quite solid.

0:10:20 > 0:10:22- Yeah.- Here we go.

0:10:25 > 0:10:26- Mm.- Mm.

0:10:26 > 0:10:27I'll have a bit of toast with it.

0:10:29 > 0:10:30The chutney goes so well with that.

0:10:30 > 0:10:33It does. You kind of need a bit of the chutney with it.

0:10:33 > 0:10:34Mm.

0:10:34 > 0:10:37But although it is game, it's not overpowering game.

0:10:37 > 0:10:40- No.- I don't think it is the scariest game in the world

0:10:40 > 0:10:42- to make a galantine with. - It certainly isn't.

0:10:42 > 0:10:46Oh! The Queen Mum's cook knew what she was doing.

0:10:49 > 0:10:51A delicious and simple way for

0:10:51 > 0:10:54the royals to enjoy the game shot for their table.

0:10:58 > 0:11:02Shooting parties have always been part of royal life.

0:11:02 > 0:11:04Many a grand shooting estate

0:11:04 > 0:11:07was created specifically to attract their patronage.

0:11:09 > 0:11:12Elveden in Suffolk is one such estate.

0:11:12 > 0:11:15It's current owner is the fourth Earl of Iveagh, Edward Guinness.

0:11:16 > 0:11:18- Good morning.- Good morning.

0:11:18 > 0:11:22He's agreed to share its past with historian Dr Matt Green.

0:11:22 > 0:11:25- This is fantastic.- This is our van.

0:11:25 > 0:11:28This van has been with us since 1934.

0:11:28 > 0:11:29Since 1934?

0:11:29 > 0:11:32It's what the shooting guns have always been driven around in.

0:11:34 > 0:11:36A suitably vintage start to the day.

0:11:38 > 0:11:43The Guinness family have owned the 17,000-acre estate since 1894,

0:11:43 > 0:11:47but Elveden was a firm favourite of the royals even before then.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51It was Queen Victoria's close friend,

0:11:51 > 0:11:53the Punjabi Maharajah Duleep Singh,

0:11:53 > 0:11:56who bought it some 30 years earlier and set

0:11:56 > 0:11:59about building its hunting reputation.

0:11:59 > 0:12:01With Duleep Singh, Elveden became

0:12:01 > 0:12:03one of the finest shoots in the country.

0:12:03 > 0:12:05Apparently, one day, he killed...

0:12:07 > 0:12:10..760 game birds with 1,000 shots.

0:12:10 > 0:12:11With 1,000 shots?

0:12:11 > 0:12:15That's almost a 100% success rate.

0:12:15 > 0:12:18He was considered extremely good, one of the top ten shots of his day.

0:12:18 > 0:12:20Are you that good?

0:12:20 > 0:12:23Forever if it wasn't a challenge it wouldn't be fun.

0:12:23 > 0:12:26- The game birds are safe with me. - OK!

0:12:26 > 0:12:29Elveden was the perfect place for the Maharajah

0:12:29 > 0:12:31to entertain his neighbour, the Prince of Wales,

0:12:31 > 0:12:35who owned the 7,000-acre Sandringham estate

0:12:35 > 0:12:37just across the county border in Norfolk.

0:12:37 > 0:12:40And it was a whole social occasion.

0:12:40 > 0:12:43They had some delicious food and drink,

0:12:43 > 0:12:46and Duleep Singh got so large,

0:12:46 > 0:12:50he needed to be seated while shooting on a wicker chair...

0:12:50 > 0:12:55- Really? Right.- ..which rotated so he could face the game birds from

0:12:55 > 0:12:56whichever direction they came from.

0:12:56 > 0:12:58So, he could swivel round and then have a shot?

0:12:58 > 0:13:00He was a sitting gun.

0:13:02 > 0:13:07Edward VII, George V and George VI all shot here at Elveden.

0:13:07 > 0:13:10No shooting party was complete without lunch.

0:13:11 > 0:13:13- So...- So, where are we? - Over this way.

0:13:13 > 0:13:16- Yes.- This wood here is the Duke of York Wood.

0:13:16 > 0:13:19Shoots would stop off and enjoy their lunch.

0:13:19 > 0:13:24And they would have the most amazing array of food,

0:13:24 > 0:13:27which was all laid out in a marquee.

0:13:27 > 0:13:28Over here? In a marquee?

0:13:28 > 0:13:30- Yes.- Really?

0:13:30 > 0:13:32It's amazing to kind of picture that, isn't it?

0:13:32 > 0:13:33The Prince of Wales himself

0:13:33 > 0:13:36would have been out there after a successful morning,

0:13:36 > 0:13:39and almost by magic this marquee would appear and they'd be in

0:13:39 > 0:13:42there having this lavish banquet, exchanging excitable tales,

0:13:42 > 0:13:46quaffing down fine wines, and then going back out there.

0:13:46 > 0:13:47It must have been amazing.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49If only the trees could talk.

0:13:49 > 0:13:52All the stories and the wonderful tales that were told.

0:13:55 > 0:13:58There's plenty to tell from Lord Iveagh's family archive.

0:13:58 > 0:14:00It includes detailed records

0:14:00 > 0:14:03of those lunches and the illustrious guests.

0:14:04 > 0:14:06- Come in, Matt.- Thank you.

0:14:06 > 0:14:08This is my great-great-grandmother's book.

0:14:08 > 0:14:12It's a photograph album that she took with her

0:14:12 > 0:14:15and many of her guests signed.

0:14:15 > 0:14:18And she put in some beautiful photographs...

0:14:19 > 0:14:21Oh, wow! These are really old.

0:14:21 > 0:14:25So, this is essentially a collection of photographs of the shoots.

0:14:25 > 0:14:27What about this picture here? Talking of lunch,

0:14:27 > 0:14:30are these the kind of pop-up dining halls

0:14:30 > 0:14:32they used to have their meals in

0:14:32 > 0:14:34- in the middle of the shoot? - They were.

0:14:34 > 0:14:37They were dining at the Duke of York Wood.

0:14:37 > 0:14:41- Wow!- So, the trees have grown but the place is the same.

0:14:41 > 0:14:43What are these signatures?

0:14:43 > 0:14:45So, they're all the host guests.

0:14:45 > 0:14:47OK. And George there.

0:14:47 > 0:14:49That's right. King George.

0:14:49 > 0:14:52- That was the king. - And, um, the Queen.

0:14:52 > 0:14:54- Churchill.- Here we go.- Churchill.

0:14:56 > 0:14:59And there's even a picture of Edward VII himself.

0:15:00 > 0:15:02It's amazing to see these.

0:15:02 > 0:15:04A really vivid trip down memory lane.

0:15:04 > 0:15:06- That's right.- Thank you for showing it to us.

0:15:06 > 0:15:07Not at all. My great pleasure.

0:15:13 > 0:15:16Shooting parties are still a part of life today on some royal estates.

0:15:18 > 0:15:23Apparently, Anna, pheasants are the Queen's very favourite game bird.

0:15:23 > 0:15:27It's probably a good job because they shoot an awful lot of them.

0:15:27 > 0:15:28Especially over Christmas.

0:15:28 > 0:15:30Boxing Day is apparently the big shooting day.

0:15:30 > 0:15:33Prince Philip used to, I think his doctors advised him not to,

0:15:33 > 0:15:35used to be shooting these birds.

0:15:35 > 0:15:37And the Queen was involved in picking them up, apparently,

0:15:37 > 0:15:40- or at least collecting them.- Just imagine the two of them there,

0:15:40 > 0:15:44as a couple, out kind of doing such a traditional British hobby.

0:15:44 > 0:15:45And Prince Philip likes cooking, I think.

0:15:45 > 0:15:47Yeah, I heard he did like to cook.

0:15:47 > 0:15:50And also when they would shoot the pheasant, any of the leftovers,

0:15:50 > 0:15:52he would bring to the local butcher

0:15:52 > 0:15:54and they would make pheasant sausages.

0:15:54 > 0:15:55He didn't want to see anything wasted.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58- Exactly.- Are you going to do those pheasant sausages?

0:15:58 > 0:16:00I'm going to make pheasant sausages but I've never made them before.

0:16:00 > 0:16:05So, I'm following this old pheasant recipe for sausages,

0:16:05 > 0:16:07- and I'm going to give it a go. - OK.

0:16:07 > 0:16:09So, fingers crossed that I make edible sausages.

0:16:09 > 0:16:13- So, what have you got?- The first thing I'm going to do is I have some

0:16:13 > 0:16:18sausage meat, some chopped up streaky bacon, and minced pheasant.

0:16:18 > 0:16:20Because pheasant isn't the obvious thing to have in a sausage,

0:16:20 > 0:16:22- is it?- No.- There's very little fat on it.

0:16:22 > 0:16:25Very little fat. But I think there's a good flavour to lend very well.

0:16:25 > 0:16:28If you match it up with the kind of fattiness of your sausage meat

0:16:28 > 0:16:30and your bacon, I think it's going to go really well.

0:16:30 > 0:16:32And then I'm just going to put a little hint of spice

0:16:32 > 0:16:34in there as well to give it a bit more interest.

0:16:34 > 0:16:37So, let's get going.

0:16:37 > 0:16:39- So, I'm going to stick them all in. - It's a smoky bacon?

0:16:39 > 0:16:43Yes. Yeah, just to give it a little extra bit of flavour.

0:16:43 > 0:16:45You're going to mix them all together?

0:16:45 > 0:16:46Mix them all together, actually,

0:16:46 > 0:16:48and I'll just pop the spice in there now.

0:16:48 > 0:16:50What spices are they?

0:16:50 > 0:16:51A pinch of nutmeg.

0:16:51 > 0:16:55- Mm hm.- And then another pinch of allspice.

0:16:55 > 0:16:59And I'm just mixing it in here with the sausage meat, the chopped bacon,

0:16:59 > 0:17:01and then the minced pheasant.

0:17:01 > 0:17:03- Mm hm.- And just give it a good mix.

0:17:03 > 0:17:09And then I'm going to use a kind of sausage attachment on...

0:17:09 > 0:17:10Sausage attachment!

0:17:10 > 0:17:13On a home mixer.

0:17:13 > 0:17:15- This is the bit I'm dying to see. - Yes, well,

0:17:15 > 0:17:18I mean, I'm dying to see if I can make these.

0:17:18 > 0:17:20You don't make sausages as a general rule?

0:17:20 > 0:17:23No. I mean, I do boudins and I would do different

0:17:23 > 0:17:28sausage shapes but not actual, traditional sausages,

0:17:28 > 0:17:29which I think is great.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32I'm quite interested to see how this is going to go.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34I'm quite nervous. I'm quite nervous.

0:17:34 > 0:17:35- Shall I hold it?- Yes.

0:17:35 > 0:17:37Make sure it doesn't move.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41So, the recipe says, I need to spoon it in there.

0:17:41 > 0:17:43- Mm hm.- Put a little bit extra on the side.

0:17:43 > 0:17:45Switch this little bad boy on.

0:17:45 > 0:17:48WHIRRING

0:17:48 > 0:17:50And let's...

0:17:50 > 0:17:51get sausage making.

0:17:54 > 0:17:56You push it all down like that?

0:17:56 > 0:17:57Yeah. A slow process.

0:17:57 > 0:18:00- Yeah.- Hope you've got no plans for the afternoon.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04Ooh!

0:18:04 > 0:18:07And you've got the sausage skins already on the end there.

0:18:07 > 0:18:09Do you want me to do that? Shall I press that down?

0:18:09 > 0:18:11Yeah. If you keep spooning.

0:18:11 > 0:18:12I will.

0:18:13 > 0:18:16I don't know how hungry you are, Michael,

0:18:16 > 0:18:18but you might be looking to get a cocktail sausage.

0:18:18 > 0:18:20It's quite a process, quite an art, I think.

0:18:20 > 0:18:21Yeah.

0:18:23 > 0:18:24Oh, yes.

0:18:24 > 0:18:27Now, that's a proper looking sausage.

0:18:27 > 0:18:30It's not as easy as it looks, this, you know.

0:18:30 > 0:18:32MICHAEL STRAINS

0:18:32 > 0:18:34I mean, we could keep going all day with this.

0:18:34 > 0:18:36We could, we could. Shall I put a bit more in?

0:18:36 > 0:18:40- No, definitely not.- That's it?- Let's nip this in the bud. Switch it off.

0:18:40 > 0:18:41Yeah.

0:18:41 > 0:18:42Phew! Ooh!

0:18:43 > 0:18:46- OK.- And a little tie.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50That's quite good. With your help there, Michael, I was able to...

0:18:50 > 0:18:52I think that was the crucial element, actually.

0:18:52 > 0:18:54Yes, absolutely.

0:18:54 > 0:18:56Now... Now I've got to twist them into sausages.

0:18:56 > 0:18:58OK. So, I think we should get three out of here.

0:18:58 > 0:19:00- Yeah.- If I do that like that.

0:19:00 > 0:19:01And then just give them a twist.

0:19:01 > 0:19:03Give them a twist.

0:19:04 > 0:19:06Twist.

0:19:06 > 0:19:08OK. Pheasant sausages. Three pheasant sausages there.

0:19:08 > 0:19:09I'm quite proud of that.

0:19:09 > 0:19:11- They do look good actually, don't they?- Yeah.

0:19:11 > 0:19:15So, the next step is to fry your sausages in a pan.

0:19:15 > 0:19:17Little bit of butter, a little bit of garlic and thyme.

0:19:17 > 0:19:20- Mm hm.- Goes delicious with some mashed potato.

0:19:20 > 0:19:22Mashed potato, of course.

0:19:22 > 0:19:24Of course. Bangers and mash.

0:19:24 > 0:19:26But this is a cider gravy.

0:19:26 > 0:19:28So, you've got chicken stock, very little bit of flour,

0:19:28 > 0:19:30caramelised onion in here.

0:19:30 > 0:19:35And a little secret to this is a spoonful of English mustard.

0:19:35 > 0:19:39- Yeah?- So, you've got the sharpness of the cider and you've also got

0:19:39 > 0:19:42the hint of mustard, just to take off the fattiness of the sausage.

0:19:42 > 0:19:45And then maybe just a little pinch of brown sugar in there as well,

0:19:45 > 0:19:47just to give it a bit of sweetness.

0:19:47 > 0:19:49Just give that a nice little stir.

0:19:49 > 0:19:53They probably needed recipes for leftovers because, you know,

0:19:53 > 0:19:56so many pheasants get shot on these occasions.

0:19:56 > 0:19:59King Edward was so keen on shooting that he had the clocks

0:19:59 > 0:20:02advanced by half an hour at Sandringham,

0:20:02 > 0:20:04so he could spend more of the day shooting.

0:20:04 > 0:20:07What do you think of that? They used to call it Sandringham time.

0:20:07 > 0:20:09- That's brilliant. - Yeah. Oh, I love your mash!

0:20:09 > 0:20:11Creamy. What's the secret with that?

0:20:11 > 0:20:13Being Irish, I think.

0:20:13 > 0:20:15- What, you're good with potatoes. - Yes.

0:20:16 > 0:20:18- Oh, yes, yes. yes.- OK.

0:20:18 > 0:20:22Now that...is what I call a sausage.

0:20:23 > 0:20:26And you put them on top... That's your cheffy bit, isn't it?

0:20:26 > 0:20:28That's my cheffy bit. Yes.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31Well, you know... My pizzazz!

0:20:31 > 0:20:33- OK.- Yep.- Now our lovely gravy.

0:20:38 > 0:20:39It's very traditional.

0:20:39 > 0:20:42Would you serve it with any other vegetables?

0:20:42 > 0:20:44No. No.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47I think just like this is exactly what you want.

0:20:47 > 0:20:50On a cold winter's day.

0:20:50 > 0:20:52Exactly. So there you have it.

0:20:52 > 0:20:55Pheasant sausage, cider gravy and creamy mash.

0:20:55 > 0:20:56Yes, please. Bring it on.

0:20:56 > 0:20:58Knife and fork for you, knife and fork for me.

0:20:58 > 0:21:00Go on. You made 'em.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03Oh, yes. They're chunky, aren't they?

0:21:03 > 0:21:05- Yeah.- And that mash.

0:21:06 > 0:21:08Look at it! Like silk.

0:21:08 > 0:21:11Cider gravy. Here we go.

0:21:13 > 0:21:14Mmm.

0:21:16 > 0:21:18- Mm.- I've never had pheasant sausage before.

0:21:18 > 0:21:20- Mm.- And I certainly will have it again.

0:21:20 > 0:21:22- It's delicious. - Absolutely delicious.

0:21:23 > 0:21:25These posh sausages would be a favourite

0:21:25 > 0:21:28with all ages after an afternoon in the countryside.

0:21:28 > 0:21:30For the Royal Family,

0:21:30 > 0:21:34rural pursuits mean different things to different people.

0:21:34 > 0:21:37Prince Charles is passionate about natural food,

0:21:37 > 0:21:40and he's not averse to foraging for his supper.

0:21:48 > 0:21:50When it comes to mushrooms, John Wright is an expert,

0:21:50 > 0:21:53a self-taught mycologist,

0:21:53 > 0:21:56and like Prince Charles, he's very happy to forage.

0:21:58 > 0:22:02I'm been mushrooming a very long time now, 1965, I think I started.

0:22:02 > 0:22:06I get just as excited now as I did when I first started.

0:22:06 > 0:22:08I can't wait to see what we're going to find today.

0:22:08 > 0:22:12Mushroom foraging can be traced back to the Roman times,

0:22:12 > 0:22:15but it is not until recently that it's become such a popular pastime.

0:22:17 > 0:22:18People absolutely love it,

0:22:18 > 0:22:21and it sort of calms the nerves and slows the heart rate.

0:22:21 > 0:22:23I remember seeing a picture of Prince Charles

0:22:23 > 0:22:25in the paper carrying a mushroom basket

0:22:25 > 0:22:27and I thought, "That's great",

0:22:27 > 0:22:29because he's got people that can go and pick mushrooms for him,

0:22:29 > 0:22:31but he wanted to do it himself

0:22:31 > 0:22:32and that's the whole point of it,

0:22:32 > 0:22:34you've go and actually do it yourself,

0:22:34 > 0:22:36it's engaging with nature, really.

0:22:38 > 0:22:42And with over 15,000 species of mushrooms in the UK,

0:22:42 > 0:22:43there's plenty to choose from.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46And the royal estates lend themselves

0:22:46 > 0:22:48particularly well to foraging.

0:22:48 > 0:22:51I think Prince Charles is quite a lucky mushroom hunter

0:22:51 > 0:22:55because he's got access to this wonderful parkland

0:22:55 > 0:22:58over most of the royal estate,

0:22:58 > 0:23:00so he can just go wandering and he'll find grassland species

0:23:00 > 0:23:03and woodland species, kind of in his own back garden.

0:23:03 > 0:23:05Not everybody can do that.

0:23:05 > 0:23:07One of the greatest places for fungi,

0:23:07 > 0:23:10I'm not sure if you can pick there any more, that's Windsor Great Park.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13I must say I have been picking there in the past.

0:23:13 > 0:23:15And there you have these mature trees,

0:23:15 > 0:23:17these veteran trees and they've had time

0:23:17 > 0:23:20to establish relationships with lots of fungi.

0:23:21 > 0:23:25Foraging for mushrooms takes great skill and knowledge

0:23:25 > 0:23:28and should only be undertaken by experts such as John,

0:23:28 > 0:23:30who often forages on his friends' land.

0:23:32 > 0:23:35Grasslands like this are a great source of mushrooms,

0:23:35 > 0:23:38as they have often been left uncultivated for hundreds of years,

0:23:38 > 0:23:41creating an undisturbed environment for the fungi.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45Many of the more dangerous varieties,

0:23:45 > 0:23:47such as the Death Cap and Destroying Angel,

0:23:47 > 0:23:50won't be found here, as they grow in woodland.

0:23:54 > 0:23:56This is lovely. One of my favourites.

0:23:56 > 0:23:59It's a really common mushroom.

0:23:59 > 0:24:04And that's quite a nice size, you often get them in quite large rings.

0:24:04 > 0:24:06It's called the Scarlet Wax Cap, it's quite a good one for

0:24:06 > 0:24:09frightening your friends that come round for dinner.

0:24:09 > 0:24:12People really worry about red things and I can understand why.

0:24:12 > 0:24:13But no, there's some edible red things

0:24:13 > 0:24:15and there's some poisonous red things,

0:24:15 > 0:24:17you just have to know what it is.

0:24:21 > 0:24:23These are nice. Look.

0:24:23 > 0:24:24Quite amazing.

0:24:27 > 0:24:29These are puffballs. This is quite tasty,

0:24:29 > 0:24:31and you can see how tasty it is

0:24:31 > 0:24:33because somebody has eaten a bit of it already.

0:24:33 > 0:24:34There's been a slug in there.

0:24:34 > 0:24:36There's a little bit left.

0:24:36 > 0:24:38Try and get away from the slug-nibbled area.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44Bit like a mushroom flavoured marshmallow.

0:24:44 > 0:24:46That is worth picking. In the basket.

0:24:48 > 0:24:49Now, look at this.

0:24:50 > 0:24:52Wow.

0:24:52 > 0:24:54John finds a ring of parasol mushrooms,

0:24:54 > 0:24:58the final ingredients needed for a well-known royal favourite dish.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01Now he just needs to find a spot to cook.

0:25:01 > 0:25:03They say that food always tastes better outdoors,

0:25:03 > 0:25:05and it certainly does,

0:25:05 > 0:25:09and nothing better than mushrooms you've picked half an hour ago.

0:25:09 > 0:25:11These are super fresh.

0:25:11 > 0:25:13We have heat. My goodness, I think I'll just

0:25:13 > 0:25:15sit here and warm my hands.

0:25:15 > 0:25:18In honour of the very fine mushrooms I've managed to pick today I'm going

0:25:18 > 0:25:22to use the Duke of Edinburgh's own recipe for wild mushrooms

0:25:22 > 0:25:23which is mushrooms a la creme.

0:25:25 > 0:25:26So let's get that melted.

0:25:26 > 0:25:30What I think I'll do is I'll put some of our wax caps in first,

0:25:30 > 0:25:33they take a little bit longer to cook, they're quite moist.

0:25:33 > 0:25:35Remove the twigs, I don't worry too much about that.

0:25:35 > 0:25:37That's a little scarlet wax cap.

0:25:37 > 0:25:39Just get the stem off.

0:25:39 > 0:25:43And now our magnificent puffball, I'll break him in bits.

0:25:43 > 0:25:45Pop him in. What else have we got?

0:25:45 > 0:25:48Here are my parasols next, these cook very quickly.

0:25:48 > 0:25:50Just going to pull the stem out, you can't do anything with the stem,

0:25:50 > 0:25:52and don't need to clean it, don't need to wash it,

0:25:52 > 0:25:55just break it into little triangles and in it goes.

0:25:55 > 0:25:58Mushrooms really do need salt, there's a very bland flavour,

0:25:58 > 0:26:00they need that little bit of salt.

0:26:00 > 0:26:03I'm going to put in a little bit of pepper.

0:26:04 > 0:26:07These mushrooms are cooked. I'm going to put this in.

0:26:07 > 0:26:08And I think that's enough.

0:26:08 > 0:26:11I do like the cream thick but not too thick,

0:26:11 > 0:26:13you don't want it to be like a sticky custard or something,

0:26:13 > 0:26:15you just need it a little bit runny.

0:26:15 > 0:26:17That's it, done. Just try it now.

0:26:17 > 0:26:20Let's have a go. It should be perfect.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23And the cream will have taken on the flavour of the mushrooms.

0:26:25 > 0:26:26My God, that's amazing.

0:26:26 > 0:26:29That is really, really brilliant.

0:26:29 > 0:26:30I'll have some of the mushrooms.

0:26:30 > 0:26:32I'm going to go with the puffball.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37It's sort of ice cream, it really is.

0:26:37 > 0:26:40It's just wonderful, but it's so much better out of doors.

0:26:40 > 0:26:43It really is the perfect end to a foraging day -

0:26:43 > 0:26:45pick something in the wild, we eat it.

0:26:54 > 0:26:57The Royal Family's love of the outdoors has always meant

0:26:57 > 0:26:59a willingness to try something new.

0:27:03 > 0:27:06Here in the grand library of the house, I'm with Fiona Ross,

0:27:06 > 0:27:09who is a food historian and writes a lot about the Royals.

0:27:09 > 0:27:12Most of the royals really adore country pursuits, don't they?

0:27:12 > 0:27:14But Prince Philip, I mean, he's 90-odd now,

0:27:14 > 0:27:18but certainly for most of his life has been a real enthusiast

0:27:18 > 0:27:21- for the outdoors. - Yes, he has.

0:27:21 > 0:27:24When he first met the Queen, he used to go jogging with four sweaters on.

0:27:24 > 0:27:25You know, he loved exercising so much.

0:27:25 > 0:27:27And then he's always been...

0:27:28 > 0:27:32In later years, he became very interested in playing polo,

0:27:32 > 0:27:35and the Queen gave him his first polo horse in 1951.

0:27:36 > 0:27:38He was very resistant to the idea at first,

0:27:38 > 0:27:41he said, "I'm not going to ponce about on horses."

0:27:41 > 0:27:43He also said it was a snob's sport.

0:27:43 > 0:27:47But he ended up being amongst the top 2% of polo riders in Britain.

0:27:47 > 0:27:50- And shooting, fishing? - Shooting, fishing, yes, absolutely.

0:27:50 > 0:27:52He was taught to shoot by the Queen's father,

0:27:52 > 0:27:55and when he first turned up for a shoot with the Queen's father,

0:27:55 > 0:27:57he had no gear, nothing whatsoever,

0:27:57 > 0:27:59George fitted him out with everything,

0:27:59 > 0:28:04and subsequently he's shot snipe in Sandringham,

0:28:04 > 0:28:07or capercaillie and grouse in Scotland, in Balmoral.

0:28:07 > 0:28:10He loves to clean and gut the creatures himself,

0:28:10 > 0:28:14and then he flogs them off to the local butcher,

0:28:14 > 0:28:17called HM Sheridan in Ballater, who sells them on.

0:28:17 > 0:28:20He's a bit of a practical joker, too, on these kind of things.

0:28:20 > 0:28:22Yes, yes, he can have a lovely sense of humour.

0:28:22 > 0:28:27When the Queen was rather upset during the tour of Canada in 1951,

0:28:27 > 0:28:31because her father was so ill, he decided to cheer her up

0:28:31 > 0:28:33by offering her imitation bread rolls,

0:28:33 > 0:28:35which squeaked when she bit into them.

0:28:35 > 0:28:37He also offered her mixed nuts from a tin,

0:28:37 > 0:28:40and when she opened it, a snake flew out.

0:28:41 > 0:28:44Actually, practical joking seems to run in the Royal family, doesn't it?

0:28:44 > 0:28:47The Queen Mother was a famous practical joker,

0:28:47 > 0:28:49as well as being an outdoors woman.

0:28:49 > 0:28:53Yes, she was, she loved anything that made people laugh,

0:28:53 > 0:28:55she was absolutely adorable.

0:28:55 > 0:28:57She loved fishing,

0:28:57 > 0:29:00and was very amused once when another lady spotted her

0:29:00 > 0:29:02fishing in the River Dee, and tried to curtsy,

0:29:02 > 0:29:05thus filling her waders with water.

0:29:06 > 0:29:08But her picnics were famous.

0:29:08 > 0:29:12Yes, she loved having picnics, as all the Windsors did.

0:29:12 > 0:29:16What she loved most of all is her equerry recalled that she liked

0:29:16 > 0:29:18something fishy like a mousse, to start with,

0:29:18 > 0:29:21and that would be followed possibly by some cold game,

0:29:21 > 0:29:24caught the day before, and finished with jam tarts,

0:29:24 > 0:29:27which she would cut the head off of and fill with cream.

0:29:27 > 0:29:28All in the great outdoors,

0:29:28 > 0:29:30which in her case was the far north of Scotland,

0:29:30 > 0:29:32so she must have been pretty hardy.

0:29:32 > 0:29:34She was very hardy, yeah.

0:29:34 > 0:29:37She was hardly enough to survive one of Prince Charles' meals.

0:29:37 > 0:29:42Prince Charles invited her to his bothy for a venison stew,

0:29:42 > 0:29:44and they sort of chewed their way through the venison stew,

0:29:44 > 0:29:48and then when she was driving back with her equerry, she said to him,

0:29:48 > 0:29:50"Are you feeling a bit hungry?"

0:29:50 > 0:29:52And he said, "I'm fine". She said, "Well, I'm hungry.

0:29:52 > 0:29:54"Let's go make some scrambled eggs."

0:29:54 > 0:29:56Which they did.

0:29:57 > 0:29:59- Fiona, thanks very much. - Thank you.

0:30:01 > 0:30:05Country life for the royals nowadays is also about the enjoyment

0:30:05 > 0:30:09of growing and eating their own produce, and one of

0:30:09 > 0:30:14the most prized fruits that they grow is the Windsor white peach,

0:30:14 > 0:30:15and royal chef Darren McGrady

0:30:15 > 0:30:18has a recipe that really shows the fruit off.

0:30:21 > 0:30:23In the grounds of Windsor Castle,

0:30:23 > 0:30:26they grow the best peaches in the world.

0:30:26 > 0:30:33Plump, juicy, sweet, and they really are the culinary crown jewels.

0:30:33 > 0:30:36Unfortunately, I don't have those gorgeous peaches

0:30:36 > 0:30:37they have at Windsor,

0:30:37 > 0:30:40but I've got some nice ripe ones here.

0:30:40 > 0:30:42Darren is making Peach Princess,

0:30:42 > 0:30:45a dish he's cooked many times in his 15 years' service.

0:30:48 > 0:30:51To make this royal favourite, these peaches are left to soften for

0:30:51 > 0:30:55five minutes in water, with some sugar and cinnamon sticks.

0:30:56 > 0:30:59While the peaches are cooking, we're going to make the mousse,

0:30:59 > 0:31:03and the mousse is really retro, 1970s,

0:31:03 > 0:31:06but it tastes fantastic, and when peaches were in season,

0:31:06 > 0:31:10this is a dish that the Queen would have...

0:31:10 > 0:31:11maybe twice a week.

0:31:11 > 0:31:15So, we start off by boiling some milk.

0:31:15 > 0:31:19We then need to put some eggs and sugar together,

0:31:19 > 0:31:21but we need to separate the eggs,

0:31:21 > 0:31:26so we want the egg whites to whisk into the mousse,

0:31:26 > 0:31:28but the yolks go in with the sugar.

0:31:28 > 0:31:33And then, a little vanilla in there, too.

0:31:33 > 0:31:36This is mixed together, then the boiled milk is added.

0:31:38 > 0:31:42And once it's all mixed in, we go back to the pan.

0:31:43 > 0:31:46When the mixture has the consistency of cream,

0:31:46 > 0:31:50it's time to add some dissolved gelatine to help it thicken.

0:31:50 > 0:31:52Pour into that, keep whisking as you pour,

0:31:52 > 0:31:54because we don't want lumps of gelatine in there.

0:31:55 > 0:31:59The mixture is then cooled in the fridge for 30 minutes.

0:32:02 > 0:32:04While the mix is just cooling down slightly,

0:32:04 > 0:32:07the peaches should be ready now.

0:32:07 > 0:32:10And we can lift those out to a plate.

0:32:10 > 0:32:15I'm really serious when I talk about the peaches being the crown jewels,

0:32:15 > 0:32:19the culinary crown jewels. When the peaches were in season,

0:32:19 > 0:32:22they travelled to wherever Her Majesty was,

0:32:22 > 0:32:25and if she was at Balmoral Castle,

0:32:25 > 0:32:28there were wooden boxes made and the peaches were actually taken from

0:32:28 > 0:32:31the trees, wrapped in cotton wool,

0:32:31 > 0:32:35and packed neatly into the boxes, and then driven to Balmoral.

0:32:39 > 0:32:44Once the egg mixture has chilled, it's time to whip some cream...

0:32:44 > 0:32:47Nice, soft peaks on the cream.

0:32:47 > 0:32:48..and the egg whites.

0:32:50 > 0:32:53And whip the egg whites until they're nice and stiff.

0:32:53 > 0:32:54How do you know when they're ready?

0:32:54 > 0:32:56They need to be really, really stiff,

0:32:56 > 0:33:00so much so that if you tip the bowl up over your head, it doesn't fall

0:33:00 > 0:33:04into your hair. Then, we start off with the cream...

0:33:06 > 0:33:07..and add all of our cream...

0:33:10 > 0:33:12..into the egg mixture.

0:33:12 > 0:33:15Then we can add the egg whites, and just fold these in, cut and fold,

0:33:15 > 0:33:17cut and fold, turning the bowl.

0:33:18 > 0:33:20So once it's all mixed in together,

0:33:20 > 0:33:23then we're going to pour it into our beautiful dishes.

0:33:23 > 0:33:26This part needs to go in the refrigerator just to set up,

0:33:26 > 0:33:29and I've got one in here that's been setting for a while.

0:33:30 > 0:33:33Ah, yes, this one's set up perfectly.

0:33:33 > 0:33:35This is just what we're looking for.

0:33:35 > 0:33:37Nice and firm on the top.

0:33:38 > 0:33:40It's ready for the peaches.

0:33:40 > 0:33:44The next stage is to peel our peaches, take that skin off,

0:33:44 > 0:33:48and then we'll just cut some little slices, lay them on the top,

0:33:48 > 0:33:50and then cover them with the jelly.

0:33:50 > 0:33:52And they just lay neatly on top.

0:33:55 > 0:33:58And finally, all we have to do...

0:34:00 > 0:34:03..is put our jelly over the top.

0:34:04 > 0:34:07Darren has already prepared a sachet of citrus jelly

0:34:07 > 0:34:09to complete this dish.

0:34:09 > 0:34:12And I'm just going to spoon this over the top of those peaches.

0:34:16 > 0:34:19And that's the most gorgeous Peach Princess.

0:34:19 > 0:34:22A timeless classic, worthy of its regal title.

0:34:30 > 0:34:31Peach of a dish, would you say?

0:34:31 > 0:34:33Oh, good one! Good one!

0:34:33 > 0:34:36Look, when our kitchen maid, Mildred Nicholls,

0:34:36 > 0:34:38who's left us this fantastic recipe book,

0:34:38 > 0:34:40was working in the Buckingham Palace kitchens,

0:34:40 > 0:34:45Edward VII was on the throne, then his son, George V.

0:34:45 > 0:34:47Both dedicated countrymen, out and about all the time,

0:34:47 > 0:34:51shooting, fishing, in Edward's case, philandering!

0:34:51 > 0:34:55So what have you managed to find in Mildred's cookbook that is

0:34:55 > 0:34:58a nice snack to take out on your country pursuits?

0:34:58 > 0:35:01Something to put in the hamper, something to have in your hand,

0:35:01 > 0:35:04- a nice sweet snack?- OK, well, this recipe is very interesting.

0:35:04 > 0:35:07It's called chapeaux communs, and it's like...

0:35:07 > 0:35:09- Chapeaux communs? - Yeah.

0:35:09 > 0:35:11I've never seen anything like it before,

0:35:11 > 0:35:13so I'm quite excited to see how it's going to turn out.

0:35:13 > 0:35:16It's a kind of pastry that is wrapped around marzipan,

0:35:16 > 0:35:18and then we're going to dip it in chocolate -

0:35:18 > 0:35:21that originally wasn't in the recipe but I think it will be a nice

0:35:21 > 0:35:23kind of twist on it - but I think what makes this recipe

0:35:23 > 0:35:27so interesting is that the pastry is like a mixture between

0:35:27 > 0:35:30kind of like a pastry and a bit of a cake, because you've got a bit

0:35:30 > 0:35:33of baking powder in here, and a bit of cream...

0:35:33 > 0:35:34- That's unusual. - ..butter, flour...

0:35:34 > 0:35:36Yeah, it is, it's quite interesting.

0:35:36 > 0:35:39So you just mix all those ingredients together and you roll it

0:35:39 > 0:35:41out to about half a centimetre thick.

0:35:41 > 0:35:43- And that's what we have here. - "Chapeau" is French for hat,

0:35:43 > 0:35:45- isn't it?- That's right, yes.

0:35:45 > 0:35:46And you shape it into a particular kind of hat,

0:35:46 > 0:35:49- but we'll talk about that in a minute.- Exactly. Exactly.

0:35:49 > 0:35:50So, what do you do?

0:35:50 > 0:35:52I'm just going to cut the rounds out now, and then I'm going to

0:35:52 > 0:35:55- make the marzipan. - I love marzipan.

0:35:55 > 0:35:58Yeah, yeah. And I think the royals were fans of marzipan.

0:35:58 > 0:36:00Oh, down the ages.

0:36:00 > 0:36:02I think it would have been seen as a real treat because there was

0:36:02 > 0:36:04a lot that you could do with marzipan -

0:36:04 > 0:36:05you could colour it and shape it,

0:36:05 > 0:36:07and I think back in the Tudors' time,

0:36:07 > 0:36:10they used to like it shaped as little animals.

0:36:10 > 0:36:12And they'd have them on the banqueting table.

0:36:12 > 0:36:14- Yeah.- And things like that. - Biting their heads off.

0:36:14 > 0:36:17Mind you, it must have been only for the very, very rich in those days.

0:36:17 > 0:36:19Oh, yeah. Definitely.

0:36:19 > 0:36:22So this is your almond flour, and it's the base of the marzipan.

0:36:22 > 0:36:25It is just ground down almonds.

0:36:25 > 0:36:27And I'm going to add the sugar.

0:36:27 > 0:36:30Is marzipan always with almonds, or could you do it with other nuts?

0:36:30 > 0:36:32Oh, you can do it with any nuts, I mean, a walnut marzipan...

0:36:32 > 0:36:33Traditionally?

0:36:33 > 0:36:36Traditionally, it's almonds, but walnut marzipan was my favourite.

0:36:36 > 0:36:38And then we're going to add our butter to it.

0:36:38 > 0:36:42And then the same way you would make like apple crumble,

0:36:42 > 0:36:46you'd just kind of try to lift the butter, mix the butter,

0:36:46 > 0:36:49through your almond flour as quickly as possible,

0:36:49 > 0:36:53and this way you get kind of like an even covering of butter

0:36:53 > 0:36:55on your almond so then, when you add your egg,

0:36:55 > 0:36:58it just kind of all mixes together like a good dough.

0:36:58 > 0:37:01I got the impression you're slightly sniffy about marzipan,

0:37:01 > 0:37:03as if it's sort of an old-fashioned taste?

0:37:03 > 0:37:05- Yeah, I do... - When I said, "I love marzipan"...

0:37:05 > 0:37:06"Yeah, somebody your age probably would."

0:37:06 > 0:37:08That's exactly what I thought.

0:37:08 > 0:37:11- Oh, right!- Oh, my God, Michael, it's like you can read my mind!

0:37:11 > 0:37:13Well, it is fairly transparent.

0:37:13 > 0:37:15Yeah. Well, my dad loves a bit of marzipan,

0:37:15 > 0:37:18and I remember as a kid when dad would be all excited about,

0:37:18 > 0:37:21you know, the sweets you get at Christmas.

0:37:21 > 0:37:24And I, as a kid, you know, they looked amazing, you were like,

0:37:24 > 0:37:28"Oh, beautiful!" You'd sink your teeth into them and you'd be like...

0:37:28 > 0:37:29Not a lot going on here for me.

0:37:29 > 0:37:31But the Queen loves marzipan, apparently,

0:37:31 > 0:37:32and other people know that.

0:37:32 > 0:37:35I think that when she went to Germany once,

0:37:35 > 0:37:38they actually gave her a big marzipan

0:37:38 > 0:37:40rendering of the Brandenburg gate.

0:37:40 > 0:37:43- Can you imagine?- Brilliant! You can just imagine her

0:37:43 > 0:37:46- sinking her teeth into that. - Yes!

0:37:46 > 0:37:49We've been trying to do some research and find out

0:37:49 > 0:37:52a bit more about it, having found it in Mildred's book,

0:37:52 > 0:37:55but there isn't very much about it, but chapeaux communs

0:37:55 > 0:38:00rather sounds... It means a kind of revolutionary hat,

0:38:00 > 0:38:03it seems rather an odd thing for the royal family to have in that sort

0:38:03 > 0:38:06- of way, doesn't it?- I mean, wait till you see like, when these bake,

0:38:06 > 0:38:08they will look a little bit like Napoleon's hat.

0:38:08 > 0:38:09Oh, wow! OK.

0:38:09 > 0:38:14- What next?- So, all you need to do is crack one egg into the centre.

0:38:15 > 0:38:19Keep a sharp eye out for any egg shell, looking good to go.

0:38:19 > 0:38:21Just give it a mix.

0:38:21 > 0:38:24Now, if the almond meal you have is a bit dry,

0:38:24 > 0:38:28a tiny teaspoon of water or anything like that would kind of be enough.

0:38:28 > 0:38:30- Just to moisten it.- Just to bring it together, because you don't

0:38:30 > 0:38:32want your marzipan to be too dry,

0:38:32 > 0:38:33you don't want it to kind of crumble,

0:38:33 > 0:38:36you DO want to be able to kind of sink your teeth into it.

0:38:36 > 0:38:39Eurgh. I'm not a marzipan fan. Even saying that!

0:38:39 > 0:38:42But that's, I know, the way it should be.

0:38:42 > 0:38:44OK, so it looks like it's almost together now,

0:38:44 > 0:38:49so I'm going to get my hand back in there, a bit more pressure on it.

0:38:49 > 0:38:52OK, so when you're rolling marzipan,

0:38:52 > 0:38:55you don't use flour because this is a flourless recipe,

0:38:55 > 0:38:58we're going to use icing sugar to help you roll it out,

0:38:58 > 0:39:02so we're going to roll this into small little balls,

0:39:02 > 0:39:05just going to take a little bit of icing sugar, there.

0:39:05 > 0:39:08It's the fact that it's in tiny little pieces,

0:39:08 > 0:39:10tiny little hats, that make it so suitable, don't they,

0:39:10 > 0:39:13for putting in a hamper, almost putting it in your pocket if you're

0:39:13 > 0:39:17- going out shooting or something? - Exactly. Exactly.- Oh, now, now, and

0:39:17 > 0:39:19this is the tricky bit. Yes, yes, you roll the ball.

0:39:19 > 0:39:22- Yeah. - Very neat. Very round.

0:39:22 > 0:39:23Is the size important?

0:39:23 > 0:39:26Yeah, well, I think you want to be able to have a good amount

0:39:26 > 0:39:28of the marzipan in there. I think it's the star of the show.

0:39:28 > 0:39:32Mm. You want to sink through the pastry and into the sweetness

0:39:32 > 0:39:33- of the marzipan. - Exactly.

0:39:33 > 0:39:36So, now I'm going to start shaping the little hats.

0:39:36 > 0:39:40We're looking for a three-point hat.

0:39:40 > 0:39:43Oh, it would be called in those days a tricorn hat, or something.

0:39:43 > 0:39:46- A tricorn hat.- Don't know why they went out of fashion.

0:39:46 > 0:39:49They look rather elegant, I think.

0:39:49 > 0:39:51Hang on, I've got a very big head!

0:39:53 > 0:39:55Seven and seven eighths, you know.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57There we go. Oh, they look rather sweet, don't they?

0:39:57 > 0:40:00Don't they look quite pretty, yeah? They do look quite pretty.

0:40:04 > 0:40:07So, I'm just going to pop these on the tray, now,

0:40:07 > 0:40:09and I'm going to eggwash them.

0:40:09 > 0:40:12It gives them a nice kind of glaze and shine,

0:40:12 > 0:40:15and then I'm going to bake them in the oven for about

0:40:15 > 0:40:1910 to 12 minutes, at 180 degrees, and then when they come out,

0:40:19 > 0:40:22just to give it an extra kick, a little bit more sweetness,

0:40:22 > 0:40:24I'm going to glaze them with a sugar syrup,

0:40:24 > 0:40:27which is just water and sugar boiled together.

0:40:27 > 0:40:30It's going to be a really kind of sweet little mouthful, isn't it?

0:40:30 > 0:40:33Yeah. A nice, crunchy, soft kind of biscuit.

0:40:33 > 0:40:35So I've actually baked some earlier on,

0:40:35 > 0:40:37which I'm going to bring over now.

0:40:37 > 0:40:40- Look at these. - They do look lovely, don't they?

0:40:40 > 0:40:42But they've lost some of the hat shape.

0:40:42 > 0:40:45Yeah, well, it's a different hat shape.

0:40:45 > 0:40:48- But, yeah, I can kind of see... - A kind of squashed hat!- Yeah.

0:40:48 > 0:40:52So these ones I did glaze with sugar syrup on top, and you can see

0:40:52 > 0:40:54how shiny and delicious they look,

0:40:54 > 0:40:56and what I'm surprised about is that the pastry's quite firm.

0:40:56 > 0:40:58May I just...? Oh, yeah.

0:40:58 > 0:41:01- I thought the pastry was going to be soft.- Yeah.

0:41:01 > 0:41:05So, I'm going to now dip them in the chocolate.

0:41:05 > 0:41:07Now, Mildred wouldn't have done this.

0:41:07 > 0:41:09- No, she wouldn't have done this. - This is your twist.

0:41:09 > 0:41:10This is my twist.

0:41:10 > 0:41:12- Oh, just the bottom? - Maybe... Yeah.

0:41:12 > 0:41:15Maybe to hide the marzipan flavour is why...

0:41:15 > 0:41:18- I'm dipping it in chocolate. - Spoilsport!

0:41:18 > 0:41:22You don't think you're almost literally over-egging the pudding?

0:41:23 > 0:41:25You know, you've got chocolate AND marzipan,

0:41:25 > 0:41:27and this lovely pastry.

0:41:27 > 0:41:29- Yeah.- With the butter and cream in the pastry.

0:41:29 > 0:41:32Oh, my goodness, that sounds amazing!

0:41:32 > 0:41:33When you describe it that way!

0:41:33 > 0:41:36Everything in the way you describe, it sounds amazing.

0:41:36 > 0:41:38Yeah. I'm slobbering a bit myself, I have to say.

0:41:38 > 0:41:39This does look good.

0:41:39 > 0:41:42But when you put that chocolate on there isn't that going to

0:41:42 > 0:41:43leave the grid? You put it on the grid there,

0:41:43 > 0:41:45isn't that going to leave a grid pattern?

0:41:45 > 0:41:47You can't see it, and what it does is that if there is a little bit of

0:41:47 > 0:41:50excess chocolate, if I have been a bit sloppy in my dipping...

0:41:50 > 0:41:52- Oh, surely not!- ..it means that it will drip off.

0:41:52 > 0:41:54It does look good, doesn't it?

0:41:54 > 0:41:57So it's really important that when you melt your chocolate,

0:41:57 > 0:41:59you do it over a bain marie, and what this does is that it gives it

0:41:59 > 0:42:02a slower and more even temperature

0:42:02 > 0:42:04to the whole bowl so it doesn't burn,

0:42:04 > 0:42:05because chocolate's quite sensitive.

0:42:05 > 0:42:08You use those bain maries quite often, don't you?

0:42:08 > 0:42:12I do, honestly, I don't know what I'd do without a bain marie.

0:42:12 > 0:42:15I think these are the two prettiest ones, or them, so go for the...

0:42:15 > 0:42:17Go for the Quasimodos.

0:42:17 > 0:42:20We should wait, shouldn't we, for the chocolate to set?

0:42:20 > 0:42:22But I don't think I can.

0:42:23 > 0:42:26- OK. - Can I try it?- Go on.

0:42:26 > 0:42:29I really hope you like this! Oh, my goodness, that looks delicious!

0:42:29 > 0:42:30Can I do it in one? No!

0:42:32 > 0:42:34Mmm!

0:42:34 > 0:42:36Now, I'm not a marzipan fan,

0:42:36 > 0:42:38so I don't know how I'm going to feel about this, but I do think

0:42:38 > 0:42:40the chocolate is going to help.

0:42:40 > 0:42:43It's a chunky little mouthful of sweetness, isn't it?

0:42:46 > 0:42:47I love marzipan.

0:42:49 > 0:42:51- Takes me back to my childhood. - The crunch is lovely, isn't it?

0:42:51 > 0:42:54We could only ever afford it at Christmas, but we absolutely

0:42:54 > 0:42:59loved it. Oh, I think Mildred's onto a winner, here.

0:42:59 > 0:43:00I think...

0:43:00 > 0:43:02hats off to Mildred!

0:43:05 > 0:43:09That's it for our programme on food for royal country pursuits.

0:43:09 > 0:43:11See you next time.

0:43:11 > 0:43:12Mmm!