0:00:02 > 0:00:04'The royal family are steeped in tradition and throughout history
0:00:04 > 0:00:07'the royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'
0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe
0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in our own hand.
0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and the past...'
0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20'..we recreate old family favourites.'
0:00:20 > 0:00:24Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.
0:00:24 > 0:00:25What a mess.
0:00:25 > 0:00:28'We sample royal eating alfresco...'
0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow!- That is what you want.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times...'
0:00:34 > 0:00:37Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters
0:00:37 > 0:00:41- and turbot dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.- Unbelievable.
0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.
0:00:46 > 0:00:50Hello. I'm Michael Buerk and welcome to Royal Recipes.
0:00:50 > 0:00:52This is Audley End,
0:00:52 > 0:00:55a magnificent stately home built in the style of a royal palace
0:00:55 > 0:00:59and a former home of King Charles II.
0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,
0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,
0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here with this gem -
0:01:13 > 0:01:15a royal kitchen maid's cookbook.
0:01:15 > 0:01:20The only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal Archive.
0:01:20 > 0:01:21This is an exact copy of
0:01:21 > 0:01:24the original which is kept at Windsor Castle.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls
0:01:27 > 0:01:31who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34And for the first time in over 100 years
0:01:34 > 0:01:37we will be bringing these recipes back to life.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47This time we're off to the races with the royal family.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50The passion for racing dates back generations
0:01:50 > 0:01:52and racing days at Epsom and Ascot are amongst
0:01:52 > 0:01:54the Queen's favourite events,
0:01:54 > 0:01:56and a time to entertain friends and family.
0:01:58 > 0:02:00Today in the royal kitchens,
0:02:00 > 0:02:03chef Anna Haugh prepares Mutton Pies a la Windsor,
0:02:03 > 0:02:07from a 1930s Royal Ascot lunch.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10Even if you don't have any winners on the racecourse,
0:02:10 > 0:02:12you've got a winner on the plate.
0:02:12 > 0:02:15Historian Dr Annie Gray reveals how Edward VII
0:02:15 > 0:02:20liked to combine two of his great passions - racing and eating.
0:02:20 > 0:02:24There was a whole rash of dishes named for racing.
0:02:24 > 0:02:25A la Jockey Club.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27A la Race Winner.
0:02:27 > 0:02:30And former royal chef Darren McGrady
0:02:30 > 0:02:32gets cooking for the royals at Epsom.
0:02:32 > 0:02:34Looks gorgeous on the plate.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37Perfect for the royal table and a day at the races.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43In the historic kitchen of this grand stately home,
0:02:43 > 0:02:47we're returned to the reign of the Queen's father, King George VI,
0:02:47 > 0:02:51and a dish from his first Royal Ascot.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53Hello. And here we are in the grand kitchen
0:02:53 > 0:02:56with top London chef Anna Haugh.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00The royals seem always to have loved racing. In fact, King Charles II
0:03:00 > 0:03:02actually bought this wonderful house
0:03:02 > 0:03:05because it's close to Newmarket races,
0:03:05 > 0:03:07and he wanted the most impressive house close to
0:03:07 > 0:03:09the racecourse for entertaining.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13What do you think of racing? You're Irish, after all.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16I am Irish. I'm very fond of racing. Of course I am.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- Perhaps not as much as the royals, though.- Perhaps not.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22- So what are you cooking? - I'm going to make mutton pie.
0:03:22 > 0:03:23That sounds a bit ordinary.
0:03:23 > 0:03:25No, this is no ordinary mutton pie.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28This is Mutton Pie a la Windsor.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- That's got a ring to it, hasn't it? - Yes.
0:03:30 > 0:03:36And this one I think was actually served at Royal Ascot in 1937,
0:03:36 > 0:03:39which is the first Royal Ascot that King George VI, the Queen's father,
0:03:39 > 0:03:41went to as king.
0:03:41 > 0:03:43So it sounds posh.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- Really posh.- The royals, when they went to the races,
0:03:46 > 0:03:48probably still do when they go to the races,
0:03:48 > 0:03:52they don't just have a snack, packet of crisps, and, you know, something like that.
0:03:52 > 0:03:54- No.- They have the works.
0:03:54 > 0:03:56And you'll see as I make this pie
0:03:56 > 0:03:58that there is the works going on here.
0:03:58 > 0:04:00- So it sounds posh. - OK. Let's get cracking.
0:04:00 > 0:04:05So here I have some onions, slowly cooking in some butter.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07And I'm going to add the chopped up mutton.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10Now this is a perfect dish for leftovers.
0:04:10 > 0:04:12So in goes the chopped mutton
0:04:12 > 0:04:16and I'm going to add to that my lamb stock.
0:04:16 > 0:04:19Now you need to reduce this down,
0:04:19 > 0:04:23so you need to cook it for quite a while, maybe about an hour or so
0:04:23 > 0:04:27until it looks like this...
0:04:27 > 0:04:30Oh, gosh! That really does look rich.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33I know. You just want to eat that with a spoon right now.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- Yeah, absolutely. - But you can't, Michael, you can't.
0:04:35 > 0:04:37Don't be too sure.
0:04:37 > 0:04:39This is our filling ready to go.
0:04:39 > 0:04:43- Yep.- And here I have blind baked four tartlet shells.
0:04:43 > 0:04:45So I've placed a sheet of grease-proof paper
0:04:45 > 0:04:47on top of the pastry
0:04:47 > 0:04:49and then, inside that, I've added raw rice.
0:04:49 > 0:04:52This just holds down the grease-proof paper...
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- Stopping it rising. - Exactly. And you can re-use it.
0:04:55 > 0:04:57- That's sneaky, isn't it? - Yeah, it's quite clever.- Yeah.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00So I'm going to fill these moulds now.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02This mix looks perfect.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05I think this dish is originally a Victorian dish, isn't it?
0:05:05 > 0:05:09One of Queen Victoria's royal chefs, Francatelli, his name was...
0:05:09 > 0:05:11- That's right.- ..came up with it.
0:05:11 > 0:05:15They're individual pies, so it's, you know, one pie per person.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17And well filled, aren't they? And deeply filled.
0:05:17 > 0:05:22That's it. OK, so once they're filled you just want to seal them.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25So I'm going to make a kind of lamb jelly.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27That's two sheets of gelatine
0:05:27 > 0:05:30in with about 200ml of your lamb stock.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33And once that's just dissolved in, which you can see...
0:05:33 > 0:05:35- Oh, just goes like that. - Just like that.
0:05:35 > 0:05:37When you say seal it, what do you mean by that?
0:05:37 > 0:05:41It means that this gelatine will set on top of that delicious,
0:05:41 > 0:05:46succulent mixture and it will set on top of it and hold it in together
0:05:46 > 0:05:48because these pies are actually served cold.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52- Cold!- Like a pork pie.- Oh, right. Of course, they would have been
0:05:52 > 0:05:56prepared in Windsor Castle and then taken to Ascot...
0:05:56 > 0:05:57- Exactly.- ..in hampers and so on.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00Perfect for the races, but also perfect for a picnic,
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- and you know the royals love to picnic.- Absolutely.
0:06:02 > 0:06:04And now, for our final stage,
0:06:04 > 0:06:06we've puff pastry to go on top of this one.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- This is a la Windsor.- A la Windsor.
0:06:09 > 0:06:11So you need three cutters for this.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14I've already cut out four of the large ones,
0:06:14 > 0:06:17so now I'm going to cut out four of the medium-sized cutter.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21And straightaway after that
0:06:21 > 0:06:24I'm going to cut out the centre of these
0:06:24 > 0:06:26because right in the centre
0:06:26 > 0:06:30is where we're going to pour our little jellied jewels.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32Gosh! This is a lot of trouble, isn't it?
0:06:32 > 0:06:34I know. All for the royals, all for the royals.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37Now, so, little bit of egg wash.
0:06:37 > 0:06:39- What's that for?- This kind of holds all of them together,
0:06:39 > 0:06:42but also it gives it a lovely shine, so it's dual purpose.
0:06:42 > 0:06:45- Yep. Now you've put that one... Ah, right.- On top.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48- Yep.- On top.
0:06:48 > 0:06:49Try to get it as centred as...
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- This is elaborate, isn't it? - It is. And what's so lovely is that
0:06:53 > 0:06:55when it sits on top and we fill
0:06:55 > 0:06:59the centre of this with the jellied jewel,
0:06:59 > 0:07:01that's what I think really makes it quite unique.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03OK. Just another little bit of egg wash.
0:07:03 > 0:07:07- Yep.- So you bake this in the oven, 160 degrees,
0:07:07 > 0:07:0925 minutes or so until its golden brown.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12And essentially they should look like these...
0:07:12 > 0:07:15- Oh, wow!- Aren't they pretty? - Yes, they certainly are.
0:07:15 > 0:07:18And they're going to get much prettier now in a minute.
0:07:18 > 0:07:20So you place them on top of your pie.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22Yep, put the lid on.
0:07:22 > 0:07:27And then, in a pan, I have a little bit of beef jelly.
0:07:27 > 0:07:29What is beef jelly?
0:07:29 > 0:07:33You cook down your beef stock, your beef bones and your vegetables,
0:07:33 > 0:07:36and then, just at the end, we add one or two leaves of gelatine
0:07:36 > 0:07:38so that it would set up.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40So just pour that on top.
0:07:40 > 0:07:42Yep.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45It's so lovely. I get a lot of pleasure out of this.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48- You like this bit, don't you? - Yes, I do. I really, really do.
0:07:48 > 0:07:50It's a mutton pie. You and your jewels.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53Oh, that's rather nifty. How do you keep the lid on?
0:07:53 > 0:07:56Well, that's what the lamb jelly does.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59Once it sets cold, it holds everything together.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01You need to set these in the fridge, probably for about an hour.
0:08:01 > 0:08:05And when you take them out of the fridge they should look like this...
0:08:05 > 0:08:07I say.
0:08:07 > 0:08:09HE CHUCKLES
0:08:09 > 0:08:11- Sweet, huh? - With the shiny jewels on the top.
0:08:11 > 0:08:13METAL RATTLES That rattle is the cutlery.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17I think these are so special and I'm hoping, fingers crossed,
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- at the centre... - I thought it was going to shatter.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- I love that sound.- Ooh, yeah.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26Now, nearly there.
0:08:26 > 0:08:29- Look. Look at that. Look at that. - Oh-oh-oh-oh!
0:08:29 > 0:08:32I didn't think it had set so beautifully.
0:08:32 > 0:08:33Almost like a pork pie.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36And perfectly cooked puff pastry.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- Lovely layers in there, if I do say so myself.- I expected nothing less.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42I expected nothing less. Right, after you.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44OK.
0:08:44 > 0:08:46Gosh, there's a lot of meat in here, isn't there?
0:08:46 > 0:08:47Can I have...?
0:08:49 > 0:08:52Oh! Oh, yes, the consistency's great.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54I love the puff pastry on the top.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56- So different, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:08:59 > 0:09:01Oh! That's really good.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05Well, I mean, even if you don't have any winners on the racecourse,
0:09:05 > 0:09:08you've got a winner on the plate.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14Mini mutton pies, just one of 11 courses served at
0:09:14 > 0:09:17King George VI's first Ascot meeting.
0:09:19 > 0:09:21Racing is of course the sport of kings,
0:09:21 > 0:09:24and that tradition goes back centuries.
0:09:24 > 0:09:27One English town lies at the heart of it all.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37Newmarket in Suffolk is the home of British horse racing
0:09:37 > 0:09:40and the Jockey Club has long-standing links
0:09:40 > 0:09:42with the royal family.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45One of its most colourful and enthusiastic royal visitors
0:09:45 > 0:09:48was Edward VII, also known as Bertie.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51Food historian Dr Annie Grey discovers what went on
0:09:51 > 0:09:53when Bertie was in town.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56Edward VII was a man known for grand passions -
0:09:56 > 0:10:00women, food and horse racing.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03Once a year he would hold an enormous Derby day banquet
0:10:03 > 0:10:07to celebrate and bring together two of those loves, at least.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11And it was held for members of an exclusive racing club -
0:10:11 > 0:10:13the Jockey Club.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17I've come here to Newmarket, the spiritual home of racing,
0:10:17 > 0:10:22to find out more about how Edward VII combined his love of food
0:10:22 > 0:10:23with his love of the turf.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27The Jockey Club is where owners and breeders have been meeting for over
0:10:27 > 0:10:32250 years and where the official governing body for horse racing in
0:10:32 > 0:10:34Britain was set up.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38Annie is meeting horse-racing historian Chris Garibaldi for a tour
0:10:38 > 0:10:39of the different rooms.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44Edward VII was a regular visitor and indulged in the pastime of
0:10:44 > 0:10:48coffee drinking in the clubroom, which dates back to the 1700s.
0:10:49 > 0:10:52- So, Chris, tell me about this room. - Well, this is the coffee room,
0:10:52 > 0:10:55and so, in a sense, this is the sort of centre of the club where it
0:10:55 > 0:10:58originally started on this site in the 1750s.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01The one thing you've got to remember is the Jockey Club is not a club for
0:11:01 > 0:11:05jockeys. The word jockey was associated with people who ran
0:11:05 > 0:11:07horses, the aristocratic owners.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10And, of course, the aristocratic owners actually rode themselves,
0:11:10 > 0:11:12certainly in the 16th and 17th centuries.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- It's quite a room, isn't it? - It is, and what's lovely,
0:11:17 > 0:11:20you've got the survival of the booths which gives a real impression
0:11:20 > 0:11:21of what it would have been like.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23It's sort of people coming to exchange gossip,
0:11:23 > 0:11:25to settle their wagers,
0:11:25 > 0:11:28really an assembly space before people moved up to the racecourse.
0:11:28 > 0:11:30You do get a real sense of place.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34All of these booths crammed with people, gambling in one corner.
0:11:34 > 0:11:37I just get the feeling it would have stunk of kind of horse
0:11:37 > 0:11:41and bad coffee and leather and just...man.
0:11:41 > 0:11:44Edward VII employed his own coffee maker, an Egyptian,
0:11:44 > 0:11:46called Emln Abraham.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49And the best thing, when you're reading about him in the archives,
0:11:49 > 0:11:51is that it specifies that he always wore an Eastern fez.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56It was the absolute sort of pinnacle of social intercourse,
0:11:56 > 0:12:00to be taking coffee in the late 17th century.
0:12:00 > 0:12:03Although the royal family hasn't stayed at the Jockey Club since
0:12:03 > 0:12:06the days of George V, they're certainly very present here.
0:12:06 > 0:12:08- These are fantastic. - There are royal portraits,
0:12:08 > 0:12:11paintings and artefacts along every corridor.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18Presumably, this grand room is the dining room.
0:12:18 > 0:12:21It is indeed, yeah. The main dining room of the club.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25It's got some fantastic paintings, showing Derby winners.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28What about the connection between Edward VII and the Jockey Club?
0:12:28 > 0:12:33From about 1861 he trains his own racehorses in Newmarket.
0:12:33 > 0:12:34And with the Prince of Wales,
0:12:34 > 0:12:37a whole sort of new set come in to Newmarket.
0:12:38 > 0:12:39And he stayed here, didn't he?
0:12:39 > 0:12:43He had a set of apartments built, and a staircase built for him?
0:12:43 > 0:12:44Yes, there was a separate entrance.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48The main entrance for club members is from Newmarket High Street
0:12:48 > 0:12:50but the king's entrance was from the other side of the site from
0:12:50 > 0:12:54the avenue, to allow him to come and go pretty well as he pleased.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58So he was able, really, here, to live almost as a private individual?
0:12:58 > 0:13:00As normal as it was possible to be.
0:13:03 > 0:13:05It was around this time that Edward VII brought back
0:13:05 > 0:13:08the tradition of spectacular banquets
0:13:08 > 0:13:10thrown the day after the Derby,
0:13:10 > 0:13:12known as the Derby dinners.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17The Derby dinner gave him an excuse to entertain on this kind of
0:13:17 > 0:13:23palatial scale. His taste was for very elaborate 18-course...
0:13:23 > 0:13:25dinners. Incredibly rich sauces.
0:13:25 > 0:13:27Everything supplemented with truffles
0:13:27 > 0:13:29and foie gras and
0:13:29 > 0:13:32very much that sort of high-end Escoffier-inspired French cuisine.
0:13:32 > 0:13:35And those things would have been reported in the newspapers?
0:13:35 > 0:13:38- Absolutely.- So I'm assuming that this is really something that is
0:13:38 > 0:13:40putting Bertie, Prince of Wales, on the map.
0:13:43 > 0:13:47Bertie's rejuvenated Derby day dinners really did catch the spirit
0:13:47 > 0:13:52of the age. There was a whole rash of dishes named for racing -
0:13:52 > 0:13:55a la Jockey Club, a la race winner -
0:13:55 > 0:13:59and you find in 19th-century cookbooks, time and time again,
0:13:59 > 0:14:01illustrations of culinary kitsch,
0:14:01 > 0:14:05something unidentifiable covered with lurid green colouring with
0:14:05 > 0:14:07little jockey caps all the way round.
0:14:07 > 0:14:12And there was a real vogue for tiny little copper horseshoe moulds.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15What was in them might well be veal mousse or something in aspic.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19It didn't really matter. In your own aspirational way,
0:14:19 > 0:14:23you were embracing Bertie the Prince of Wales, and his own lavish
0:14:23 > 0:14:26dinners but, there, on your own dining table.
0:14:31 > 0:14:32As well as the Derby dinners,
0:14:32 > 0:14:37Edward VII would enjoy some equally rich indulgent and long lunches
0:14:37 > 0:14:38at Ascot.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44Edward VII wasn't only famous for his Jockey Club dinners but for his
0:14:44 > 0:14:47absolutely prodigious lunches
0:14:47 > 0:14:51at Ascot races. 14 courses - for lunch!
0:14:51 > 0:14:5314 courses!
0:14:53 > 0:14:56That lunch must have raced into dinner.
0:14:56 > 0:14:57When did they actually get to see the races?
0:14:57 > 0:15:00I can imagine they didn't have any time for the races.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03That was probably Edward's favourite day, lunch running into dinner.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05Now, you're going to do a dish
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- from Edward's luncheon party at Ascot races in 1908.- Yup.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13From the famous royal chef, Gabriel Tschumi.
0:15:13 > 0:15:14- That's right.- What is it?- Well,
0:15:14 > 0:15:17this is one of the 14 courses that he would have served,
0:15:17 > 0:15:19and it's crab mousse with sauce remoulade.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- Love crab.- So, I'm going to make the crab mousse first.
0:15:22 > 0:15:27And for the crab mousse, I need to dissolve some gelatine in some fish stock. So, I'm just going to...
0:15:27 > 0:15:31You always dissolve your gelatine in a little bit of cold water.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- Now, that's leaf gelatine? - That's right, leaf gelatine.
0:15:34 > 0:15:37All you want to do is just dissolve that, you do not want to boil it.
0:15:37 > 0:15:39If you boil it, you kill the gelatine.
0:15:39 > 0:15:41- It stops working.- Right.
0:15:41 > 0:15:44So, it doesn't take much heat, and then it's already just dissolved.
0:15:44 > 0:15:47- It's disappeared already. - That's it, it's disappeared.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51Now, you need that to be fully chilled down before you would actually use
0:15:51 > 0:15:56it in your mousse because you've things like whipped cream or
0:15:56 > 0:15:59mayonnaise that goes in this, and if you put hot liquid into them,
0:15:59 > 0:16:00it's game over.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03So, the first thing that I'm going to add in
0:16:03 > 0:16:05- is going to be the mayonnaise. - Mm-hmm.
0:16:06 > 0:16:09So, in with the brown and white crab
0:16:09 > 0:16:11I'm going to put a bit of paprika
0:16:11 > 0:16:14and also now we're going to put in our chilled fish stock,
0:16:14 > 0:16:16which has the gelatine. You can see it starting to set there.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20Yes, it's thickening at this stage, isn't it?
0:16:20 > 0:16:23Is this a kind of modern dish or is it a dish very much of its time?
0:16:23 > 0:16:26Is it the sort of thing you'd do or not?
0:16:26 > 0:16:27No. I mean, yes and no.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30So, there's lots of dishes that I would do now that were inspired by
0:16:30 > 0:16:35recipes like this but perhaps now we mightn't have the mayonnaise in it.
0:16:36 > 0:16:39I think we like a slightly lighter type of cuisine.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42And I think that the mayonnaise, although it has a lot of flavour,
0:16:42 > 0:16:44it's not really necessary any more.
0:16:44 > 0:16:47- But you mix it all together. - I've mixed all that together
0:16:47 > 0:16:50and then the last thing I'm going to do is actually fold through my cream.
0:16:50 > 0:16:53- So, we're just going to add that in. - Oh, goodness.
0:16:53 > 0:16:55So, this is a folding technique.
0:16:55 > 0:16:56So, we don't want to over...
0:16:56 > 0:17:00Sometimes I use the folding technique to keep air in something
0:17:00 > 0:17:02but also when you're adding cream,
0:17:02 > 0:17:04you don't want to overwhip the cream
0:17:04 > 0:17:06because then it gets very buttery.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08So, we're just going to fold this in.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10At this particular luncheon, there were 80 guests.
0:17:10 > 0:17:12They must have been cooking all night!
0:17:12 > 0:17:16Incredible. For 80 guests, 14 courses.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20And everything was cooked in the royal kitchens, put into hampers,
0:17:20 > 0:17:22taken to the racecourse. Now, what are you doing here?
0:17:22 > 0:17:27So, I'm just going to fill these up to about maybe two-thirds full.
0:17:27 > 0:17:28Are they going to expand?
0:17:28 > 0:17:30No, no. I'm going to set them in the fridge, then,
0:17:30 > 0:17:33for about an hour or two.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36And then I've left a little bit of space because I'm actually going to
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- top up...- Oh, you haven't finished them.
0:17:38 > 0:17:41Just a little bit of the...
0:17:41 > 0:17:44gelatine and the fish stock, just to kind of seal
0:17:44 > 0:17:46the freshness in on top of it.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48So, I'm just going to smooth these down.
0:17:48 > 0:17:50Mm-hmm.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53And then I'm going to need you to pop them into the fridge for me.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55They need to be refrigerated for an hour.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57- Right, to set?- To set.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00But when you go there, you'll find that I've already got some
0:18:00 > 0:18:02- in there waiting for you. - Oh, there's a relief.
0:18:02 > 0:18:03Thank you, chef.
0:18:13 > 0:18:14- There you go, Anna. - Thanks for that, Michael.
0:18:14 > 0:18:17- Just pop it down there, thanks. - Lovely and cold.
0:18:17 > 0:18:20Now I'm going to make a sauce remoulade.
0:18:20 > 0:18:25- What's remoulade?- So, remoulade is, essentially, fancy mayonnaise.
0:18:25 > 0:18:27Is it a bit odd, mayonnaise, with this?
0:18:27 > 0:18:29It's a bit old-school.
0:18:29 > 0:18:32You know, when you look at some of the recipes from
0:18:32 > 0:18:3450 to 100 years ago,
0:18:34 > 0:18:37you will see an awful lot of mayonnaise in things
0:18:37 > 0:18:40where I think now we do like food a little bit lighter.
0:18:40 > 0:18:43So, we do use mayonnaise but perhaps not as much.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- So, you've got your mayonnaise here. - Yeah.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51And I only need a small kind of...
0:18:51 > 0:18:53about a teaspoon amount of mustard.
0:18:53 > 0:18:54Just to give it a bit of bite?
0:18:54 > 0:18:58Yeah, a bit of bite and lovely acidity as well that you get out of
0:18:58 > 0:19:02Dijon mustard. Then I'm going to add the herbs, so,
0:19:02 > 0:19:04your chives and your tarragon.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- I love tarragon. - Perfectly chopped by myself.
0:19:07 > 0:19:09Actually, you did do it incredibly finely.
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- It takes years, doesn't it? - It does, it takes years.
0:19:13 > 0:19:16Dedication, hard work, training...
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- Lemon zest. - And a bit of lemon zest on top,
0:19:19 > 0:19:20and it just brings it all to life.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22- Yeah.- Give it a nice stir.
0:19:24 > 0:19:26So, it's not really complicated.
0:19:26 > 0:19:28It's not complicated, no, no-no.
0:19:28 > 0:19:31And you're just going to add a spoon of that into your dish.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33And you're going to serve it on the side.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- Or I'M going to serve it on the side.- Yeah.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38Oh, yes, yes, yes.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- So, that's our sauce remoulade. - Yeah.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43I'm now just going to put the last stage of
0:19:43 > 0:19:45the jelly on top of the crab.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47- Right. Top it off.- Top it off.
0:19:49 > 0:19:52So, these are lovely and chilled.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55And I'll just pour this on.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58- Yeah.- So, this is the fish stock with the gelatine that we used
0:19:58 > 0:20:01earlier that also went inside the crab mousse.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04And that's going to set pretty quickly, I would think,
0:20:04 > 0:20:06with that freezing mousse underneath.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09Yeah. But it turns out that, although this will set quickly,
0:20:09 > 0:20:11I've already made one finished.
0:20:11 > 0:20:12How useful!
0:20:13 > 0:20:16- Oh, it does look neat, doesn't it? - So, here we are.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19So, we're just going to add our sauce remoulade here,
0:20:19 > 0:20:21and then our melba toasts.
0:20:21 > 0:20:23Is this the time we taste?
0:20:23 > 0:20:25This is the time that we taste.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27I love crab. There you go.
0:20:27 > 0:20:29- OK, thank you.- Righto, you first.
0:20:29 > 0:20:34OK. I think I'll go for a bit of the crab and the Melba toast first.
0:20:34 > 0:20:38I can hear the thundering of the racehorse hoofs but I'm more
0:20:38 > 0:20:40interested in the crab.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42There we go.
0:20:42 > 0:20:44Mm, I love just smearing it.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48But I'm not so sure about the mayonnaise.
0:20:48 > 0:20:52- Let's try it with it.- You're right, I'm going to try that next.
0:20:52 > 0:20:54Yeah, I think it's...doubly rich.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59A bit rich.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02I don't know, old-school but not old hat.
0:21:02 > 0:21:03SHE CHUCKLES
0:21:05 > 0:21:10Crab mousse, as enjoyed by Edward VII at Ascot in 1908.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12Let's hope his horse came in as well.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18Nowadays, it's traditional for the Queen to serve tea at Ascot.
0:21:18 > 0:21:21The only lunches served in the Royal Enclosure are at Epsom for
0:21:21 > 0:21:26the Derby. One royal chef who's prepared many racing lunches is
0:21:26 > 0:21:27Darren McGrady.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34As a Buckingham Palace chef, Darren would also work at Windsor Castle,
0:21:34 > 0:21:37where all the Royal lunches were prepared for Derby day at Epsom.
0:21:37 > 0:21:42The Queen always serves a cold buffet, and, in the 1980s,
0:21:42 > 0:21:44Darren recalls preparing some favourite fish dishes.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50I'm making a Gleneagles pate, which is layers of smoked salmon,
0:21:50 > 0:21:52smoked trout, and smoked mackerel.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55It was one of the dishes I prepared for the Royal Family at Balmoral,
0:21:55 > 0:21:59Sandringham, Windsor, especially Balmoral Castle,
0:21:59 > 0:22:01where they had all of the fish, all of the salmon,
0:22:01 > 0:22:03coming in from the River Dee.
0:22:03 > 0:22:05I'm going to start off with a loaf tin.
0:22:05 > 0:22:08We line the loaf tin with plastic wrap.
0:22:08 > 0:22:10And then I start taking the salmon
0:22:10 > 0:22:12and we're actually going to line the outside of the mould
0:22:12 > 0:22:14with that salmon.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16So, something like this dish
0:22:16 > 0:22:18would be made using the salmon from Balmoral.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24Once the tin is lined, the next step is preparing the fresh trout,
0:22:24 > 0:22:26which will make up the first layer of the pate.
0:22:26 > 0:22:30So, we're going to start off with the trout, and then, in there,
0:22:30 > 0:22:33we're going to put in some butter. See how easy this is?
0:22:33 > 0:22:36We're also going to take some lemon and squeeze it straight in.
0:22:36 > 0:22:37Add some salt and pepper...
0:22:39 > 0:22:41..and then a little fresh dill in there.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43Balmoral Gardens are incredible,
0:22:43 > 0:22:47just to go and actually pick all your own herbs.
0:22:47 > 0:22:48They go into the blender.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51The Balmoral Gardens are absolutely amazing.
0:22:51 > 0:22:52They used to grow everything.
0:22:52 > 0:22:55It was almost self-sufficient for the eight weeks that the Queen
0:22:55 > 0:22:57was at Balmoral Castle.
0:22:59 > 0:23:01Look at that for a beautiful pate... Oh...
0:23:01 > 0:23:04Oh, my gosh, that smells so good.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08Now, take this, and put this into the bottom of my mould.
0:23:09 > 0:23:13So, spend a little time just making that nice and flat so that when you
0:23:13 > 0:23:16cut into it, you'll see those beautiful layers.
0:23:16 > 0:23:20And the way to do that is to chill each layer as you go along.
0:23:20 > 0:23:23So this will go into the fridge for a little while,
0:23:23 > 0:23:25ready for the next layer.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27As the trout pate cools in the fridge,
0:23:27 > 0:23:30Darren prepares the next layer by repeating the process,
0:23:30 > 0:23:32this time using mackerel.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35He removes the skin and then blends the fish with butter, lemon,
0:23:35 > 0:23:37salt and pepper.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45This one's had about an hour in the refrigerator and that's firmed up.
0:23:45 > 0:23:49And then we can take this gorgeous smoked mackerel
0:23:49 > 0:23:51and make that our next layer.
0:23:51 > 0:23:55We always do it in that order because we want to keep a layer of
0:23:55 > 0:23:58pink, a layer of white, and a layer of pink.
0:23:58 > 0:24:01I've seen before at Buckingham Palace one of the chefs
0:24:01 > 0:24:04actually make this dish and he puts the salmon and the trout
0:24:04 > 0:24:08and then finishes with the mackerel. Pink, more pink and white.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11It doesn't go. Start again.
0:24:11 > 0:24:15So, try and make sure that that mackerel goes into the centre.
0:24:15 > 0:24:17The mackerel is a much denser fish,
0:24:17 > 0:24:20so we don't need to go back to the refrigerator with this one.
0:24:20 > 0:24:25We can go straight on to that next level of adding the smoked salmon.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29And this is a straightforward salmon, again some more butter in
0:24:29 > 0:24:32there, some black pepper, a little lemon juice, and, finally...
0:24:34 > 0:24:36..this time, we're just going to put some chives in there as well.
0:24:44 > 0:24:47And then this next layer can go over the top.
0:24:47 > 0:24:48And this is our last layer.
0:24:50 > 0:24:54And we can take our salmon and roll that over the top.
0:24:54 > 0:24:57So, fold that over, press it down slightly, and then,
0:24:57 > 0:24:59with the plastic wrap that we have here...
0:25:01 > 0:25:04..that can now go into the refrigerator
0:25:04 > 0:25:06to set up the complete dish.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09Once the completed pate has set in the fridge,
0:25:09 > 0:25:11it's ready to be sliced and served.
0:25:11 > 0:25:14Once your pate's been in the refrigerator
0:25:14 > 0:25:16chilling for a few hours,
0:25:16 > 0:25:18it should look like this one here.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22Nice and firm, and it's going to be perfect for cutting.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25Now, if we were sending this to Epsom for the Derby
0:25:25 > 0:25:29for the Queen's lunch, we'd leave it wrapped, we'd pack it in ice,
0:25:29 > 0:25:32and it would go to the races just like this.
0:25:32 > 0:25:35And, once we'd got there, then we'd finish it with all the garnish.
0:25:35 > 0:25:38Slicing it onto a beautiful bed of lettuce.
0:25:38 > 0:25:42But I'm going to finish this one as if we're sending it right into
0:25:42 > 0:25:46the royal dining room. Trim off that first piece
0:25:46 > 0:25:47and, already, it's looking gorgeous.
0:25:48 > 0:25:50Doesn't that look amazing?
0:25:50 > 0:25:53The smoked trout, and the layers of smoked mackerel.
0:25:53 > 0:25:54It looks gorgeous.
0:25:57 > 0:26:02Gleneagles pate. Beautiful layers, smoked salmon, smoked trout,
0:26:02 > 0:26:03smoked mackerel.
0:26:03 > 0:26:07Looks absolutely stunning, looks gorgeous on the plate.
0:26:07 > 0:26:10Perfect for the royal table, and a day at the races.
0:26:12 > 0:26:15A dish served in the Royal Box in the 1980s.
0:26:15 > 0:26:19The tradition of the cold buffet at Epsom remains,
0:26:19 > 0:26:21but the food served nowadays is much lighter.
0:26:23 > 0:26:25I'm here in the library of the house with Ingrid Seward
0:26:25 > 0:26:28of Majesty Magazine, royal commentator and biographer.
0:26:28 > 0:26:32So, how do the royals eat at the races these days?
0:26:32 > 0:26:36Well, it is a less grand affair these days,
0:26:36 > 0:26:38because it's just tea,
0:26:38 > 0:26:41but when I say less grand, it's still served by a footman,
0:26:41 > 0:26:45it's still beautifully presented sandwiches,
0:26:45 > 0:26:46tiny with all the crusts cut off.
0:26:46 > 0:26:47Cucumber?
0:26:47 > 0:26:50Cucumber, certainly, and minced chicken and egg,
0:26:50 > 0:26:54and you're served Pimm's or champagne and iced coffee.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56Almost anything you want.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00And tea is served after the fourth race at the back of the box.
0:27:00 > 0:27:04The box is quite large, the new box this is, the new Royal Box.
0:27:04 > 0:27:07And there's room to seat 50 people.
0:27:07 > 0:27:09And it's not a placement,
0:27:09 > 0:27:12but the Queen obviously chooses who she wants to sit next to.
0:27:12 > 0:27:15But this is only part of a wider entertainment
0:27:15 > 0:27:18over Ascot week, for instance.
0:27:18 > 0:27:20Well, Ascot week is a chance for the Queen to entertain
0:27:20 > 0:27:24all kinds of people, mostly her horsey friends,
0:27:24 > 0:27:25which, of course, she loves.
0:27:25 > 0:27:27And then foreign dignitaries,
0:27:27 > 0:27:30and some of Prince Philip's foreign relations.
0:27:30 > 0:27:32So they're all put in as a hotchpotch.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34But this happens at Windsor Castle?
0:27:34 > 0:27:35This happens at Windsor Castle.
0:27:35 > 0:27:36So, what happens there?
0:27:36 > 0:27:37Well, it's very formal.
0:27:37 > 0:27:40People get invited by letter,
0:27:40 > 0:27:44and then they're told exactly what to do, what to bring, what to wear.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47And, in the old days, it was the four days.
0:27:47 > 0:27:49Nowadays, it's called "dine and sleep", and they usually
0:27:49 > 0:27:51just stay one night.
0:27:51 > 0:27:56And ladies are asked if they'd like to keep their hats on for lunch
0:27:56 > 0:27:57or take their hats off.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01Lunch is quite a quick affair,
0:28:01 > 0:28:05because then the royal party gets into their royal Daimlers
0:28:05 > 0:28:10and goes and into Windsor Park and then they change into the carriages,
0:28:10 > 0:28:14and go on the procession, the famous Royal Procession, down the course.
0:28:14 > 0:28:18Ascot races have also produced some famous romances.
0:28:18 > 0:28:23Princess Diana invited Sarah Ferguson to lunch at Ascot,
0:28:23 > 0:28:25and she was sat next to Andrew,
0:28:25 > 0:28:27and he fed her profiteroles.
0:28:27 > 0:28:29And the rest is history.
0:28:29 > 0:28:32So, in the very unlikely event that I was invited,
0:28:32 > 0:28:34what would the experience be like?
0:28:34 > 0:28:36Well, in the very unlikely event that you were invited,
0:28:36 > 0:28:38you probably wouldn't be in the royal procession,
0:28:38 > 0:28:43and you to meet the royal party actually at the races
0:28:43 > 0:28:44in the Royal Box.
0:28:44 > 0:28:47And you'd probably be introduced to the Queen,
0:28:47 > 0:28:49you'd be given a wonderfully strong drink.
0:28:49 > 0:28:53And you'd have the best view of the racing you could possibly have,
0:28:53 > 0:28:55and meet some very interesting people.
0:28:55 > 0:28:59Are all the royals equally enthusiastic about the races?
0:28:59 > 0:29:00No, they're not.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03Obviously, everybody knows it's the Queen's big passion,
0:29:03 > 0:29:07and it was the Queen Mother's, and Sophie Wessex and Prince Edward.
0:29:07 > 0:29:10Even Prince Charles likes racing.
0:29:10 > 0:29:12But Prince Philip does not.
0:29:12 > 0:29:14And everybody knows that.
0:29:14 > 0:29:16So, when he arrives at the races,
0:29:16 > 0:29:20he goes into his own office at the back,
0:29:20 > 0:29:22and he watches the cricket and does paperwork.
0:29:24 > 0:29:25He's there on sufferance, is he?
0:29:25 > 0:29:28He's very much there because he knows it's his duty,
0:29:28 > 0:29:30and he's always done it,
0:29:30 > 0:29:32but he's very much there under sufferance.
0:29:34 > 0:29:35Great, thanks very much.
0:29:36 > 0:29:41Every year, Royal Ascot attracts 300,000 racegoers.
0:29:41 > 0:29:44They get through a lot of champagne, a lot of lobster,
0:29:44 > 0:29:47and a staggering 50,000 macarons.
0:29:51 > 0:29:54There's no other sweet quite as eye-catching as
0:29:54 > 0:29:57the highly-fashionable macaron.
0:29:57 > 0:30:00Reshmi Bennett is a classically trained chef,
0:30:00 > 0:30:03who specialises in these luxurious delicacies.
0:30:04 > 0:30:08My preferred method of making macarons is
0:30:08 > 0:30:09the French meringue method.
0:30:09 > 0:30:12You start off by making a French meringue,
0:30:12 > 0:30:16which is whipping up egg whites with granulated sugar in a mixer.
0:30:16 > 0:30:19Once it's whipped up to a meringue, you add ground almonds to it,
0:30:19 > 0:30:22icing sugar and then you have to fold it all in together.
0:30:22 > 0:30:24Very controlled movements,
0:30:24 > 0:30:27the technique is what we call macaronage.
0:30:27 > 0:30:29And then you pipe it.
0:30:29 > 0:30:31So, they're not that many steps.
0:30:31 > 0:30:32I've made it sound a lot easier than it is,
0:30:32 > 0:30:34but that is, literally, what it is.
0:30:39 > 0:30:42It seems likely that the macaron originated in Italy,
0:30:42 > 0:30:45where they'd been produced by Venetian monasteries since
0:30:45 > 0:30:47the eighth century.
0:30:47 > 0:30:50But the first written recipe appeared in France in the 1600s,
0:30:50 > 0:30:54and it was French confectioners who popularised these sweet treats.
0:30:55 > 0:31:00The Italian meringue method came into France, I believe,
0:31:00 > 0:31:06when Catherine de Medici of Italian aristocracy was betrothed
0:31:06 > 0:31:10to the ruling King of France, Henry.
0:31:12 > 0:31:15And her condition
0:31:15 > 0:31:18of marrying him was so that she could bring her Italian chefs
0:31:18 > 0:31:22with her to France, because they knew the art of the macaronage
0:31:22 > 0:31:24and how to make Italian meringue macarons.
0:31:26 > 0:31:27That was her condition.
0:31:27 > 0:31:29He accepted, gratefully,
0:31:29 > 0:31:34and she had these banquets and it was all very, very opulent.
0:31:34 > 0:31:37They have the tower structure of macarons,
0:31:37 > 0:31:39giving an illusion of elegance.
0:31:39 > 0:31:42Rumour also has it that Catherine de Medici
0:31:42 > 0:31:45was a bit partial to pistachio macarons,
0:31:45 > 0:31:47because of how luxurious they were,
0:31:47 > 0:31:50coming all the way from Iran, these pistachio nuts.
0:31:50 > 0:31:54So, I would have thought pistachio macarons were fit for a queen.
0:31:54 > 0:31:57You give a tap -
0:31:57 > 0:31:59that's to get rid of any trapped air bubbles -
0:31:59 > 0:32:00and then they go into the oven.
0:32:04 > 0:32:08Macarons have become very popular in the UK since a French patissier
0:32:08 > 0:32:13set up on one of London's most exclusive stores in 2006.
0:32:14 > 0:32:17As a result, the treat that was once the preserve of the elite
0:32:17 > 0:32:19has become far more accessible.
0:32:19 > 0:32:22However, these macarons still enjoy royal patronage.
0:32:23 > 0:32:28We did have people that worked at the Palace near our shop come over
0:32:28 > 0:32:31and purchase big amounts of macarons,
0:32:31 > 0:32:34and whether it was for their own consumption,
0:32:34 > 0:32:36whether it was for the royal family -
0:32:36 > 0:32:37I don't know, one can only hope -
0:32:37 > 0:32:39but we did supply the Royal Foundation
0:32:39 > 0:32:42for one of their events as a charitable donation.
0:32:44 > 0:32:48There's much debate about the correct pronunciation
0:32:48 > 0:32:49of these dainty delicacies
0:32:49 > 0:32:53Often referred to as a macarOON, but, strictly speaking,
0:32:53 > 0:32:56that's a coconut-covered meringue dipped in chocolate -
0:32:56 > 0:33:00quite different from the macarONS being prepared here.
0:33:00 > 0:33:03One thing is certain, baking them is a labour of love.
0:33:05 > 0:33:07A lot of people that have tried it, failed it a few times,
0:33:07 > 0:33:09they give up and I would say, "Don't give up."
0:33:09 > 0:33:11Maybe you didn't get it the first time around.
0:33:11 > 0:33:13Try it the second time, try it the third time.
0:33:13 > 0:33:16It's worth a try, and even if they don't look great,
0:33:16 > 0:33:17they'll still taste great.
0:33:17 > 0:33:20All good things come to those who try and try again.
0:33:20 > 0:33:24Anything you get right the first time round,
0:33:24 > 0:33:26you don't really treat it with as much respect.
0:33:29 > 0:33:32And having mastered the art of macaronage,
0:33:32 > 0:33:35Reshmi has found new ways for pastry-lovers to enjoy
0:33:35 > 0:33:37this ultimate indulgence.
0:33:39 > 0:33:42We started off doing just macarons,
0:33:42 > 0:33:47and then we expanded by just playing around with cake.
0:33:47 > 0:33:50And we found that when we added all our macarons to the cake,
0:33:50 > 0:33:53people just went nuts for it.
0:33:53 > 0:33:55It's kind of like the ultimate indulgence.
0:33:55 > 0:33:56You've got a slice of cake,
0:33:56 > 0:34:00and you've got these really naughty, yet luxurious, macarons.
0:34:00 > 0:34:02And they look so nice.
0:34:02 > 0:34:04We eat with our eyes first, after all.
0:34:04 > 0:34:07Aesthetically, macarons, I do think,
0:34:07 > 0:34:11are a superior confectionery.
0:34:16 > 0:34:18Macaron, macaroon,
0:34:18 > 0:34:20tom-a-to, tom-ay-to,
0:34:20 > 0:34:22pot-a-to, pot-ay-to. SHE LAUGHS
0:34:22 > 0:34:25Macaron sounds posh. Macaroon sounds better somehow.
0:34:25 > 0:34:26More English.
0:34:27 > 0:34:32At those race meetings, Edward VII loved entertaining guests.
0:34:32 > 0:34:3880 or more at a time would often have served Eton mess as a dessert.
0:34:38 > 0:34:42And in the royal kitchens at that time was a kitchen maid called
0:34:42 > 0:34:47Mildred Nicholls, and she kept the recipes in this book here,
0:34:47 > 0:34:51and she actually has got a recipe for Eton mess.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53But, Anna, you're going to do something with a bit of a twist.
0:34:53 > 0:34:56This is strawberries - the classic Eton mess.
0:34:56 > 0:34:58You're going to do something a little bit different.
0:34:58 > 0:35:00Yeah. I think everybody is used to strawberry Eton mess,
0:35:00 > 0:35:03which is delicious, but today we're going to do a tropical twist,
0:35:03 > 0:35:07with a bit of papaya, some mango, and some passion fruit.
0:35:07 > 0:35:08And it's super easy,
0:35:08 > 0:35:12it's as easy as using strawberries, but maybe a little bit more special.
0:35:12 > 0:35:15So, the first thing we're going to start with will be the meringue,
0:35:15 > 0:35:17because that's what's going to take the longest.
0:35:17 > 0:35:21And you just need to add, I think it's like half a teaspoon,
0:35:21 > 0:35:23of salt to your egg whites.
0:35:23 > 0:35:27And a tablespoon, or a teaspoon maybe, of vinegar.
0:35:27 > 0:35:29Salt and vinegar sounds a bit...
0:35:29 > 0:35:31It's a pudding, isn't it?
0:35:31 > 0:35:33Yes, but it actually strengthens the egg whites,
0:35:33 > 0:35:37- so that you can get these lovely, soft, strong peaks.- Right.
0:35:37 > 0:35:42So, we're going to whisk it up till its forming peaks before we add
0:35:42 > 0:35:45the sugar, because it needs to have as much air as possible in it
0:35:45 > 0:35:48to give it that lovely, crispy meringue feel.
0:35:48 > 0:35:50That's coming up really well.
0:35:50 > 0:35:51Yeah, it's looking pretty good now.
0:35:51 > 0:35:53I'm going to start to slowly add my sugar soon.
0:35:55 > 0:35:59So, I'm going to add this fairly slowly at a time,
0:35:59 > 0:36:00not all in one go.
0:36:00 > 0:36:01Is it caster sugar?
0:36:01 > 0:36:02It is caster sugar, yeah.
0:36:04 > 0:36:07So, when you add sugar to eggs, you strengthen them,
0:36:07 > 0:36:10so it means that the air will stay in them for longer.
0:36:10 > 0:36:12But if you add it in too soon,
0:36:12 > 0:36:14you'll actually knock out the air of the eggs,
0:36:14 > 0:36:16which is the opposite of what you want.
0:36:16 > 0:36:19- So you've got to get a balance? - You've got to get a balance to it.
0:36:19 > 0:36:21But, erm, they're looking pretty good. I don't know if you can see
0:36:21 > 0:36:24- that they're getting nice and glossy now.- Yeah, yeah.
0:36:24 > 0:36:25Can you see a change in them? They're lovely.
0:36:25 > 0:36:27I love that it's called Eton mess.
0:36:27 > 0:36:29- There's lots of stories about it, aren't there?- There is, yeah.
0:36:29 > 0:36:32There's that funny story where the headmistress, erm,
0:36:32 > 0:36:34the cake was placed, or the dessert was placed, on her chair
0:36:34 > 0:36:36and then she sat on it.
0:36:36 > 0:36:39You could imagine the schoolgirls loved that, yeah.
0:36:39 > 0:36:43There's another story about how the Eton boys were carrying a Pavlova,
0:36:43 > 0:36:45I think it was, and dropped it,
0:36:45 > 0:36:47and didn't dare admit to whoever they were carrying it to...
0:36:47 > 0:36:49Brilliant! I'd never heard that!
0:36:49 > 0:36:52Didn't dare admit they'd done it, so they scraped it up off the floor
0:36:52 > 0:36:56and put it in, and, you know, a famous dish was born.
0:36:56 > 0:36:57I didn't know that.
0:36:57 > 0:36:59Now, there's the last of our sugar going in.
0:36:59 > 0:37:02Ah, beautiful. But I think it has been quite traditional, hasn't it,
0:37:02 > 0:37:04at the Eton-Harrow cricket matches?
0:37:04 > 0:37:06You know, those two top public schools, when they have
0:37:06 > 0:37:08an annual cricket match, I think Eton mess is traditional.
0:37:08 > 0:37:11- Ooh, I say, it's really sticky. - Pretty much done.
0:37:11 > 0:37:12OK, now we're going to...
0:37:13 > 0:37:15..spoon this onto our tray.
0:37:17 > 0:37:20It's essentially a summer dish, obviously, using summer fruit.
0:37:20 > 0:37:22Well, I think it can be any time of year, really,
0:37:22 > 0:37:25especially since we're doing tropical fruit.
0:37:25 > 0:37:27But, yeah, I think you could have it in the summer,
0:37:27 > 0:37:29if it strawberries and raspberries.
0:37:29 > 0:37:31You could have a roasted apple one, as well,
0:37:31 > 0:37:34which would be quite delicious. Maybe put a bit of cinnamon
0:37:34 > 0:37:36in your cream, which would be quite nice.
0:37:36 > 0:37:37So, we're going to do two kind of...
0:37:37 > 0:37:39Whopping meringues.
0:37:39 > 0:37:42Two large meringues, yeah, so then we can break them up afterwards.
0:37:42 > 0:37:46Just going to smooth it out to give it a nice, kind of, round shape.
0:37:46 > 0:37:48It's still a favourite of the royal family, isn't it?
0:37:48 > 0:37:50Yes, so I hear, yeah.
0:37:50 > 0:37:53But I think it's a favourite in everybody's household.
0:37:53 > 0:37:54But I think particularly for them,
0:37:54 > 0:37:57because I think they grow quite a lot of soft fruit,
0:37:57 > 0:37:59strawberries especially, up at Balmoral.
0:37:59 > 0:38:01When they go there for the late summer, I think that's the time
0:38:01 > 0:38:02when they have it.
0:38:02 > 0:38:05We always had fruit bushes out in my back garden when I was a kid and
0:38:05 > 0:38:08I can remember stealing the berries before it was time to pick.
0:38:08 > 0:38:11Yeah, and getting in quite a lot of trouble about it, but...
0:38:11 > 0:38:12I bet, I bet.
0:38:12 > 0:38:14Did you have Eton mess?
0:38:14 > 0:38:17Yes, of course, but we had them with blackberries.
0:38:17 > 0:38:20So, into the oven at 100 degrees for about an hour and 20 minutes or so,
0:38:20 > 0:38:22until it's lovely and crispy.
0:38:22 > 0:38:23OK, ma'am.
0:38:24 > 0:38:28So, now I'm going to chop my fruit to go inside the mix.
0:38:28 > 0:38:31I already have some papaya chopped,
0:38:31 > 0:38:33and I'm going to go through some mango now.
0:38:35 > 0:38:38And then cut open the passion fruit.
0:38:38 > 0:38:40So, there's a large stone inside your mango,
0:38:40 > 0:38:42which you want to be careful to cut around.
0:38:42 > 0:38:43- Are you finished yet?- I'm not.
0:38:43 > 0:38:46Do you want to give me a hand, since I've got quite a bit to do?
0:38:46 > 0:38:48Why don't you cut open some passion fruit for me?
0:38:48 > 0:38:51- I wish I'd shut... OK. - Let that be a lesson, Michael, hm?
0:38:51 > 0:38:53"Hurry up, Anna," huh?
0:38:53 > 0:38:55This could be dangerous.
0:38:55 > 0:38:57- Do I just...?- It's not as dangerous as not helping me.
0:38:57 > 0:38:59Just straight down the centre.
0:38:59 > 0:39:00Yeah.
0:39:00 > 0:39:01How do I slice this?
0:39:01 > 0:39:04Oh, a masterclass in fruit cutting. Come on.
0:39:04 > 0:39:05OK, OK.
0:39:05 > 0:39:07Straight down the centre.
0:39:07 > 0:39:09OK. That was a bit tough, wasn't it?
0:39:09 > 0:39:10There, you can do that.
0:39:10 > 0:39:12- Oh, my God, look at that. Isn't that beautiful?- Mmm.
0:39:12 > 0:39:14- Then scoop it out? - It's so beautiful.
0:39:14 > 0:39:16Like, you can get a lovely floral,
0:39:16 > 0:39:19beautiful, perfumed smell off it. It's not just about the acidity.
0:39:19 > 0:39:21But how do you do mango as well?
0:39:21 > 0:39:23I've always wanted to know how a proper professional
0:39:23 > 0:39:24dealt with a mango.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27Just watch and learn, Michael. Watch and learn.
0:39:27 > 0:39:29What do you want me to do with these? Scrape the middle out?
0:39:29 > 0:39:31Scoop them out with a spoon. I'll give you a spoon here.
0:39:31 > 0:39:34Just scoop them out and in with the papaya there.
0:39:34 > 0:39:36I was about to say, "Where do I put it?", but that was inviting a...
0:39:36 > 0:39:38THEY BOTH LAUGH
0:39:38 > 0:39:39..a wicked Irish response.
0:39:39 > 0:39:41Oh, like I'm so tough on you! Come on now!
0:39:41 > 0:39:43Oh, the juice. You are a tough, chef.
0:39:43 > 0:39:44Oh, sensitive Michael.
0:39:44 > 0:39:48OK, so you want roughly the same amount of papaya and mango, really,
0:39:48 > 0:39:51to go through this, but if you don't like tropical fruit,
0:39:51 > 0:39:53you could nearly do this recipe with any fruit at all,
0:39:53 > 0:39:56because what makes it so delicious is a bit of acidity...
0:39:56 > 0:39:57- The sharpness.- Yeah, the sharpness.
0:39:57 > 0:39:58The sweetness.
0:39:58 > 0:40:00Yeah, and then the lovely crunch off the meringue,
0:40:00 > 0:40:03and then the creaminess of your whipped cream.
0:40:03 > 0:40:05So, it all kind of goes together nicely.
0:40:05 > 0:40:07I think I did that brilliantly.
0:40:07 > 0:40:08You did. Like a professional.
0:40:09 > 0:40:10Shall I do it again?
0:40:10 > 0:40:12Yes, why not?
0:40:12 > 0:40:13Maybe stick the tip of it in the centre.
0:40:14 > 0:40:15All right.
0:40:17 > 0:40:20So, I'm going to just add my mango. Now we want my papaya.
0:40:21 > 0:40:23Actually, that works much better, doesn't it?
0:40:25 > 0:40:27- There we go.- Now, in there.
0:40:27 > 0:40:28In we go.
0:40:30 > 0:40:33So, I'm just going to start to break up the meringues.
0:40:33 > 0:40:36You need them to be nice and crispy when they come out of the oven.
0:40:36 > 0:40:38I don't know if you can hear that. That's quite nice.
0:40:38 > 0:40:39- You were tapping it and it rattled. - Yeah.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42So, we're just going to break it now into the bowl.
0:40:42 > 0:40:44- How big are the pieces?- Quite large.
0:40:44 > 0:40:48You want to feel that texture of the crispiness of your meringue.
0:40:48 > 0:40:49And then we're going to fold through
0:40:49 > 0:40:52with a couple of spoons of your cream.
0:40:52 > 0:40:53Just go behind you there.
0:40:54 > 0:40:56Looks like frogspawn, this stuff, doesn't it?
0:40:56 > 0:40:57It does, actually!
0:40:57 > 0:40:59- But it smells...- Amazing, isn't it?
0:40:59 > 0:41:00..absolutely divine.
0:41:00 > 0:41:03- So floral.- Really, really nice. - It's really, really beautiful.
0:41:03 > 0:41:05OK, so just gently fold your meringue through the cream.
0:41:05 > 0:41:07You don't want to break it up any more.
0:41:07 > 0:41:09- You don't want to really shatter it, do you?- No, no.
0:41:09 > 0:41:12And then we're just going to put a spoon of each
0:41:12 > 0:41:14in whatever serving dish you're going to be using.
0:41:14 > 0:41:15Mm-hm.
0:41:16 > 0:41:19Oh, I can just feel the anticipation of wanting to eat this,
0:41:19 > 0:41:22because I can hear the kind of gentle crisp of the meringue
0:41:22 > 0:41:23being mixed with the cream.
0:41:23 > 0:41:25- It feels lovely. - It's the ultimate temptation.
0:41:25 > 0:41:28Yeah, and it reminds me of being a kid, and this was the part
0:41:28 > 0:41:30that you were always allowed help with, nothing else.
0:41:30 > 0:41:32And scraping round the bowl and all that kind of stuff.
0:41:32 > 0:41:35Now look at this. The colour of this is so beautiful.
0:41:35 > 0:41:36- That's brilliant.- Yeah.
0:41:36 > 0:41:37OK.
0:41:37 > 0:41:39And it doesn't take much effort.
0:41:39 > 0:41:40Just a spoon of this, now, to go on top.
0:41:42 > 0:41:44The beautiful orange and yellows.
0:41:44 > 0:41:45A little...
0:41:45 > 0:41:48- And you're just putting it on the top?- Just on the top.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50Now, of course, you could mix it through...
0:41:50 > 0:41:52Is that because you haven't time? Would you mix it through?
0:41:52 > 0:41:54You could mix it through if you want, but I think that by putting
0:41:54 > 0:41:57it just on top, you get this glorious colour and, straightaway,
0:41:57 > 0:41:59you get this lovely perfume smell off it.
0:41:59 > 0:42:03And I suppose if the trick for the dish is to have the contrast
0:42:03 > 0:42:06between the textures and the tastes,
0:42:06 > 0:42:08- then having them different would be different.- Yeah, yeah.
0:42:08 > 0:42:12Exactly. So, here's your tropical Eton mess.
0:42:12 > 0:42:13Right.
0:42:13 > 0:42:16Yeah. And I'm just putting a little squeeze of lime on top.
0:42:16 > 0:42:19That just gives it like an extra zing and brings it to life.
0:42:19 > 0:42:21That's your first taste sensation, isn't it?
0:42:21 > 0:42:22Amazing, yeah. Yeah.
0:42:22 > 0:42:24OK. There we have it.
0:42:24 > 0:42:26I think you might need a spoon.
0:42:26 > 0:42:27I think I might.
0:42:27 > 0:42:30- Go on, go on. You get stuck in first.- No, come on, ladies first.
0:42:30 > 0:42:33- OK, OK, OK. You don't have to tell me twice!- No, no, quite.
0:42:33 > 0:42:35- Oh, you can just hear the crunch of the meringue...- You can.
0:42:35 > 0:42:36..and that's what I love so much.
0:42:38 > 0:42:40You can make a real mess with it. Oh, mess!
0:42:40 > 0:42:41Oh!
0:42:41 > 0:42:43Mm!
0:42:43 > 0:42:44It's so delicious.
0:42:44 > 0:42:46Mm!
0:42:46 > 0:42:48- A difference in texture.- Mm.
0:42:48 > 0:42:52And you've got the sharpness of the passion fruit and the lime
0:42:52 > 0:42:57- and the sweetness, and then that sticky, lovely stuff.- Mm.
0:42:57 > 0:43:01You could just imagine King Edward VII at Ascot, can't you?
0:43:01 > 0:43:05- Mm.- Celebrating his winners with Eton mess and champagne.
0:43:05 > 0:43:06Oh, you're like a poet.
0:43:06 > 0:43:08Oh...
0:43:08 > 0:43:09How right you are.
0:43:11 > 0:43:13Perfect end to this programme.
0:43:13 > 0:43:14See you next time.