Royal Consorts

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03'The Royal Family is steeped in tradition,

0:00:03 > 0:00:05'and throughout history, the royal tables

0:00:05 > 0:00:07'have showcased culinary excellence.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09'In celebration of royal food...'

0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe,

0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.

0:00:13 > 0:00:15'..from the present and the past...'

0:00:15 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20'..we recreate old family favourites...'

0:00:20 > 0:00:25Now, the Queen mother had this really wicked trick with these.

0:00:25 > 0:00:26What a mess!

0:00:26 > 0:00:28'..we sample royal eating alfresco...'

0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow.- That is what you want.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34'..and revisit the most extravagant times.'

0:00:34 > 0:00:38Pheasants, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters and turbot

0:00:38 > 0:00:40dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.

0:00:40 > 0:00:41Unbelievable.

0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.

0:00:47 > 0:00:51Hello. I'm Michael Burke, and welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes,

0:00:55 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.

0:00:59 > 0:01:03In the splendour of the gardens, halls and kitchen

0:01:03 > 0:01:05of this grandest of country houses,

0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.

0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here with this gem -

0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook.

0:01:16 > 0:01:20The only surviving recipe book of its kind in the royal archive.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,

0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls

0:01:28 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.

0:01:32 > 0:01:35And for the first time in over a hundred years,

0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.

0:01:43 > 0:01:45This time, we are cooking food

0:01:45 > 0:01:47inspired by royal consorts past and present.

0:01:47 > 0:01:51The husbands and wives who supported the crown and its heirs.

0:01:54 > 0:01:56Today in the Royal Recipes kitchen,

0:01:56 > 0:01:59top chef Anna Haugh tests her skills

0:01:59 > 0:02:01on Prince Philip's favourite dessert,

0:02:01 > 0:02:02a tricky souffle.

0:02:03 > 0:02:04Oh!

0:02:04 > 0:02:06Ooh-hoo-hoo!

0:02:06 > 0:02:07I nearly dropped it.

0:02:08 > 0:02:10Look at that.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14Diana's former chef reveals the Princess's favourite home cooking.

0:02:14 > 0:02:18People always assume that the royal family lived on caviar and lobster,

0:02:18 > 0:02:20but it wasn't like that at all.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23And how one king satisfied generations

0:02:23 > 0:02:25of the chocolate-loving wives of Windsor.

0:02:25 > 0:02:28This box holds three kilos of chocolates

0:02:28 > 0:02:30and it will set you back £1,700.

0:02:36 > 0:02:39In the kitchen wing of this elegant stately home,

0:02:39 > 0:02:42we start our tribute to the royal consorts

0:02:42 > 0:02:46with a dish named after perhaps the most famous consort of them all,

0:02:46 > 0:02:49Victoria's Prince Albert.

0:02:49 > 0:02:53Hello, and here we are in the kitchen wing of this historic house,

0:02:53 > 0:02:56still very much as it was in Victorian times,

0:02:56 > 0:02:59with Anna Haugh who is a top London chef.

0:02:59 > 0:03:01This programme, Anna, is all about food

0:03:01 > 0:03:05that's inspired by or named after royal other halves.

0:03:05 > 0:03:08That's right, and today, I'm going to do

0:03:08 > 0:03:10fillet of beef, Prince Albert.

0:03:10 > 0:03:13Prince Albert, the original royal consort,

0:03:13 > 0:03:16Victoria's husband, of course, who died at the early age of 42.

0:03:16 > 0:03:17But this is named after him?

0:03:17 > 0:03:18That's right.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21And although this looks like a very special,

0:03:21 > 0:03:25kind of, complicated dish to prepare, it's really quite simple.

0:03:25 > 0:03:29- Mm-hm.- So, the first thing you need to do is lay out your streaky bacon

0:03:29 > 0:03:31all kind of layered on top of each other

0:03:31 > 0:03:34and then get a fillet of beef, roughly about...

0:03:34 > 0:03:36I'd say this is 500-600g, depends.

0:03:36 > 0:03:38This should get you about maybe four portions.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40- A lovely chunk of meat. - A lovely chunk of meat.

0:03:40 > 0:03:45And then you want to cut it straight down the centre, almost halfway.

0:03:45 > 0:03:49And then I'm going to place the duck liver pate in the centre.

0:03:49 > 0:03:52Would the original dish have had duck liver pate?

0:03:52 > 0:03:54I think it probably would have been foie gras.

0:03:54 > 0:03:56- Foie gras?- Foie gras.

0:03:56 > 0:03:59- Yeah.- But I think nowadays, people would rather not use foie gras.

0:03:59 > 0:04:02Because the geese are force-fed, aren't they,

0:04:02 > 0:04:03- to make their livers swell? - Yeah.

0:04:03 > 0:04:05I think everybody would prefer...

0:04:05 > 0:04:07- Do you use foie gras in your recipes?- I don't, no.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10I used to, but, no, my conscience got the better of me.

0:04:10 > 0:04:11OK.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14OK, so you want to just fold your beef over

0:04:14 > 0:04:16and then just give it a nice, tight squeeze.

0:04:16 > 0:04:18You take the grease paper with you?

0:04:18 > 0:04:22Yes. Give it a good squeeze. It's a slow motion. No hurry.

0:04:22 > 0:04:25And then just as you're about to get around to the other side,

0:04:25 > 0:04:27you want to just lift up your grease-proof

0:04:27 > 0:04:31so that the bacon meets each other, give it a bit of a squish down.

0:04:31 > 0:04:34What's the idea of the bacon? What's it meant to add to the dish?

0:04:34 > 0:04:38So the bacon actually holds in this invisible slice,

0:04:38 > 0:04:40that little secret slice that you've put in there.

0:04:40 > 0:04:42So when you look at that, it just looks like...

0:04:42 > 0:04:44I don't know, like a fillet of beef wrapped in bacon.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47But when you cut into it, you've got the lovely surprise of the parfait.

0:04:47 > 0:04:49I think although this could just be called

0:04:49 > 0:04:51a fillet of beef wrapped in bacon,

0:04:51 > 0:04:53I think there's something very romantic and quite special

0:04:53 > 0:04:55that it's called after Prince Albert.

0:04:55 > 0:04:57I think it's lovely that it's got a special name.

0:04:57 > 0:04:59There's a lot of dishes named after him, you know.

0:04:59 > 0:05:01There's a sprout and bacon soup.

0:05:01 > 0:05:04- Ooft.- Yeah. I'm not sure I'd like to go down in history...

0:05:04 > 0:05:05That's not very glamorous.

0:05:05 > 0:05:07..being remembered for sprout and bacon soup.

0:05:07 > 0:05:11I'd rather have a real, regal meaty dish, like this, named after me.

0:05:11 > 0:05:14So, you can see I've got a lovely smoking hot pan.

0:05:14 > 0:05:18You want to put the side down that is where the bacon meets first.

0:05:18 > 0:05:21- So that seals it? - You want to seal that closed. Yeah.

0:05:21 > 0:05:24And get a gorgeous, caramelised edge around it all.

0:05:24 > 0:05:26You like your pans hot, don't you?

0:05:26 > 0:05:31I do, I do. I like to be on borderline fire hazard.

0:05:31 > 0:05:34Who doesn't love the smell of fried bacon?

0:05:34 > 0:05:36Like, who doesn't love that?

0:05:36 > 0:05:37The fire brigade, I imagine.

0:05:37 > 0:05:40Or vegetarians.

0:05:40 > 0:05:43Yeah, so, I'm just trying to get a gorgeous colour all around this.

0:05:43 > 0:05:46- Yeah.- To really encourage the best kind of flavour

0:05:46 > 0:05:48and the lovely saltiness of the cure,

0:05:48 > 0:05:52going into the fillet of beef. I mean, what a lovely idea.

0:05:52 > 0:05:55I suppose this is a kind of dish for royals, isn't it?

0:05:55 > 0:05:56I mean, it's expensive.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59The fillet like that, the duck liver pate...

0:05:59 > 0:06:02- Yeah.- Pretty expensive ingredients.

0:06:02 > 0:06:05Or a very posh, expensive restaurant like yours, Anna.

0:06:05 > 0:06:08Well, you get quite a few portions out of this

0:06:08 > 0:06:10and I don't think that there's any waste.

0:06:10 > 0:06:13That's another great thing about beef fillet.

0:06:13 > 0:06:16You don't waste any of it, and I think that's quite good.

0:06:16 > 0:06:21OK, so, I'm going to lift this over now for our mirepoix.

0:06:21 > 0:06:22Oh, wow.

0:06:22 > 0:06:24Place it on top of mirepoix.

0:06:24 > 0:06:27It's a selection of household vegetables,

0:06:27 > 0:06:31carrots, garlic, onions and celery.

0:06:31 > 0:06:36So, we're going to pop this into the oven for 20 minutes at 200 degrees.

0:06:36 > 0:06:38And when we're cooking it, the mirepoix,

0:06:38 > 0:06:40or the vegetables at the bottom,

0:06:40 > 0:06:43the aroma from them as they cook will be soaked into the meat.

0:06:43 > 0:06:44Mmm!

0:06:44 > 0:06:46- Is this my role? - Yes, please.

0:06:46 > 0:06:49And you should find a little beautiful pre-cooked one

0:06:49 > 0:06:52- ready to go. - Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful.

0:06:52 > 0:06:53Right, Chef.

0:06:57 > 0:06:59- Look at that.- Look at that. It's wonderful, isn't it?

0:06:59 > 0:07:02- Perfectly roasted. - And it's heavy too.

0:07:02 > 0:07:06Right, so, the next thing we need to do is remove the meat,

0:07:06 > 0:07:09because we're going to make the gravy with the sauce that's in here.

0:07:09 > 0:07:14So if I just lift up the tray onto the stove,

0:07:14 > 0:07:15start a fire underneath...

0:07:15 > 0:07:17You're going to do both burners?

0:07:17 > 0:07:20Yes. And all I'm going to do is add a little bit of flour,

0:07:20 > 0:07:22a little bit of Madeira.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25Yes, you can't have too much Madeira, I always think.

0:07:25 > 0:07:26I agree, I agree.

0:07:26 > 0:07:29OK, so just give that a quick whisk in.

0:07:29 > 0:07:32Why do we cook more with Madeira than actually drink it?

0:07:32 > 0:07:34I don't know about you, I'm pretty fond of drinking my Madeira.

0:07:34 > 0:07:35HE CHUCKLES

0:07:36 > 0:07:39So in goes Madeira.

0:07:39 > 0:07:40Oh, that's looking very good.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42- Yeah.- And smelling... Come this way.

0:07:42 > 0:07:44SHE CHUCKLES

0:07:44 > 0:07:47Add a little beef stock to this now as well.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50Yes, Albert had loads of things named after him.

0:07:50 > 0:07:51There's an apple named after him.

0:07:51 > 0:07:55- Oh, really?- There's a kind of pea that is named after him.

0:07:55 > 0:07:56And some white pudding as well.

0:07:56 > 0:07:58Have you heard of Sauce Albert?

0:07:58 > 0:08:00No, I haven't heard of Sauce Albert.

0:08:00 > 0:08:01Well, apparently, there is one.

0:08:01 > 0:08:04OK, so we're just going to whisk in a little bit of butter,

0:08:04 > 0:08:06because I can't help myself, just for a little bit of richness.

0:08:06 > 0:08:08- You chefs!- I know, I know.

0:08:08 > 0:08:11And all this does is just give it a little bit more body,

0:08:11 > 0:08:13a little nicer, glossy finish.

0:08:13 > 0:08:15To a non-chefy kind of person,

0:08:15 > 0:08:19it's amazing still how much butter and cream is used,

0:08:19 > 0:08:22even in new, modern style kitchens.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25But when you think about it, one or two knobs of butter

0:08:25 > 0:08:26that I popped in there,

0:08:26 > 0:08:29and how many people will be served from this sauce?

0:08:29 > 0:08:32But the impact butter has, it's quite dramatic.

0:08:32 > 0:08:36Right, so what goes really well with this is a creamy dauphinoise

0:08:36 > 0:08:39and some freshly steamed bobby beans.

0:08:39 > 0:08:41- Bobby beans?- Bobby beans, yes.

0:08:41 > 0:08:43- What are they then? - England's answer to French beans.

0:08:43 > 0:08:46Oh, I'd have called that a French bean. But they're a bit...fatter?

0:08:46 > 0:08:47I think they're more delicious.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- They're altogether superior to French beans.- Yeah, absolutely.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54OK, so, put a few of them on the base of the plate.

0:08:56 > 0:08:59And the dauphinoise, which I'm sure you wouldn't like at all.

0:08:59 > 0:09:02Oh, I can't stand dauphinoise potatoes.

0:09:02 > 0:09:04- They look good.- They do look good!

0:09:06 > 0:09:07So rich!

0:09:09 > 0:09:11I love the way you compose these things.

0:09:11 > 0:09:13- Well, you know... - It's artistry, isn't it?

0:09:13 > 0:09:15A decade and a half of training.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18Oh, look at the way the knife goes through that.

0:09:19 > 0:09:21Look at that.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23All pink on the inside.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25The pate there is a kind of vein.

0:09:25 > 0:09:29And look at the lovely juice coming out of it as well.

0:09:29 > 0:09:30- Oh!- Ooh, yeah.- Fabulous.

0:09:30 > 0:09:32Oh, I could do that a bit of damage.

0:09:32 > 0:09:35THEY CHUCKLE

0:09:35 > 0:09:38- Oh, wow. - And let's not forget the sauce.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40Now, I'd go all over it,

0:09:40 > 0:09:43but you do a delicate bit on the side, don't you?

0:09:43 > 0:09:45But it's a jus, is it?

0:09:45 > 0:09:46- It's a jus, yes.- It's a jus.

0:09:46 > 0:09:50A Madeira jus to go with a fillet of beef Prince Albert

0:09:50 > 0:09:52with bobby beans and dauphinoise potatoes.

0:09:52 > 0:09:54Looks too good to eat.

0:09:54 > 0:09:56No, it doesn't. There you go.

0:10:00 > 0:10:02- Can I have a go? - Yes.

0:10:02 > 0:10:04Mm!

0:10:04 > 0:10:05Mmm!

0:10:07 > 0:10:08Oh, that's good.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11The bacon on the outside is just so delicious.

0:10:11 > 0:10:12Fit for a king.

0:10:12 > 0:10:15Well, definitely fit for a prince consort.

0:10:15 > 0:10:16SHE LAUGHS

0:10:16 > 0:10:21Prince Albert remembered in a symphony of a dish.

0:10:23 > 0:10:27A rich and delicious meal for any table.

0:10:27 > 0:10:30Another royal consort with many dishes to her name

0:10:30 > 0:10:32is Queen Alexandra.

0:10:32 > 0:10:35Historian Dr Polly Russell explores the tastes

0:10:35 > 0:10:37of this popular Danish princess.

0:10:42 > 0:10:44Charming and beautiful,

0:10:44 > 0:10:48Princess Alexandra was brought to Britain in 1863

0:10:48 > 0:10:51to marry Queen Victoria's eldest son,

0:10:51 > 0:10:55the Prince of Wales, otherwise known as Bertie.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57And from the moment she stepped on these shores,

0:10:57 > 0:10:59she was loved by the British people.

0:11:00 > 0:11:04Polly Russell has come to London's Alexandra House,

0:11:04 > 0:11:09the home for music students, opened by Alexandra herself in 1884,

0:11:09 > 0:11:11to meet food writer Fiona Ross.

0:11:13 > 0:11:15Fiona, here we are in Alexandra House.

0:11:15 > 0:11:18It's the most beautiful room, isn't it, this drawing room?

0:11:18 > 0:11:21Yes, it's incredible. Yeah, absolutely gorgeous.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24But Alexandra, as Princess and a Queen, incredibly popular,

0:11:24 > 0:11:26really loved in her time.

0:11:26 > 0:11:30Why was she so important to the Royal Family at that time?

0:11:30 > 0:11:35I think that Victoria had been so reclusive,

0:11:35 > 0:11:37in a way, so remote from her people,

0:11:37 > 0:11:40there were stirrings of republicanism.

0:11:40 > 0:11:44Whereas Alexandra offered a freshness to the Royal Family

0:11:44 > 0:11:47that completely reworked their fortunes.

0:11:47 > 0:11:50She was basically the Princess Di of her day.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53Do we know what influence Alexandra had

0:11:53 > 0:11:56on how the Royal Family ate at the time?

0:11:56 > 0:11:58She had much more modest appetites than Bertie.

0:11:58 > 0:12:00He just inhaled banquets.

0:12:00 > 0:12:02But she couldn't really do very much about it,

0:12:02 > 0:12:04because state banquets and state dinners

0:12:04 > 0:12:07were prescribed, weren't they?

0:12:07 > 0:12:10In a sense she did influence the couple's dietary habits,

0:12:10 > 0:12:13by suggesting that they have roast beef and Yorkshire pudding

0:12:13 > 0:12:16on a Sunday. This was seen as a light...

0:12:18 > 0:12:21..a light and healthy relief from the diet during the week.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24- And I think... - Comparatively, I suppose, it was?

0:12:24 > 0:12:25Comparatively, yes!

0:12:25 > 0:12:29Alexandra was an experienced cook herself.

0:12:29 > 0:12:32It was something she and her sister learned in Denmark.

0:12:32 > 0:12:36Alexandra and Dagmar performed a range of servants' duties

0:12:36 > 0:12:39on the days when the servants were off.

0:12:39 > 0:12:42If it was the summer they would make rodgrod,

0:12:42 > 0:12:46which is a concoction of red berries thickened with potato starch

0:12:46 > 0:12:49and served perhaps with raspberry jelly and cream.

0:12:49 > 0:12:53And the recipe for rodgrod is to be found in the cookbook

0:12:53 > 0:12:56of our palace kitchen maid, Mildred Nicholls.

0:12:56 > 0:12:59Do we know if she ever cooked that here, or...?

0:12:59 > 0:13:01I don't know whether or not Alexandra

0:13:01 > 0:13:02would have cooked that herself,

0:13:02 > 0:13:04but she certainly loved to have that on the royal table.

0:13:04 > 0:13:07- Right.- And it would be served as a dessert.

0:13:07 > 0:13:11Though the gentlemen attending the royal table

0:13:11 > 0:13:13would see it as a ridiculously effeminate dessert,

0:13:13 > 0:13:15so they refused to take it.

0:13:18 > 0:13:21Polly is going to try her hand at making rodgrod.

0:13:21 > 0:13:24The blackcurrants in the original recipe are out of season,

0:13:24 > 0:13:27so we are using blueberries with the raspberries.

0:13:27 > 0:13:30First stage is to boil the berries.

0:13:30 > 0:13:32Just need to add some water.

0:13:34 > 0:13:37It's nice to think of this dish which Alexandra so loved

0:13:37 > 0:13:41and served up to guests at post-theatre suppers,

0:13:41 > 0:13:43but it was also something that she ate

0:13:43 > 0:13:46in her family home back in Denmark for breakfast.

0:13:46 > 0:13:49So something that was clearly very nostalgic

0:13:49 > 0:13:52or comforting for her as a dish.

0:13:52 > 0:13:53This has come to the boil.

0:13:53 > 0:13:57I'm going to strain it through a fruit muslin.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02Next, she adds arrowroot as a thickener,

0:14:02 > 0:14:04though they would have used sago,

0:14:04 > 0:14:06a type of starch in Alexandra's time.

0:14:06 > 0:14:09Last thing is to add in some vanilla and the claret,

0:14:09 > 0:14:12which, I think, will transform this from being

0:14:12 > 0:14:16like a child's pudding to an adult dessert.

0:14:16 > 0:14:20It's going to give it a slightly more luxurious, royal taste.

0:14:22 > 0:14:25Once boiled for ten minutes, it's ready to serve.

0:14:25 > 0:14:29It hasn't turned into the mousse or syllabub I was expecting,

0:14:29 > 0:14:32it looks rather like a thickened soup.

0:14:32 > 0:14:35But I'm just going to add a little bit of cream

0:14:35 > 0:14:38and then I'm going to taste it and see what it's like.

0:14:41 > 0:14:44I think the texture's wrong, but the flavour's delicious.

0:14:44 > 0:14:47It tastes like a sort of raspberry, berry soup.

0:14:47 > 0:14:49I can see why Alexandra loved it.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00Queen Alexandra wasn't the only royal other half

0:15:00 > 0:15:03to bring food from her native land to this country.

0:15:03 > 0:15:07Wallis Simpson, the American whose affair with Edward VIII

0:15:07 > 0:15:08led to the abdication,

0:15:08 > 0:15:12she is said to have wooed him with American dishes like this -

0:15:12 > 0:15:14Maryland fried chicken.

0:15:14 > 0:15:16Let's see if I'd be wooed.

0:15:16 > 0:15:17Come on.

0:15:19 > 0:15:20Mmm.

0:15:20 > 0:15:22Bit of a passing similarity

0:15:22 > 0:15:25to what you can get in one of those fast-food emporiums

0:15:25 > 0:15:26on the high street, I would say.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28Could you be wooed with this, do you think?

0:15:28 > 0:15:30I don't think I could be wooed with fried chicken.

0:15:30 > 0:15:32My tastes are a little bit more expensive.

0:15:32 > 0:15:38Maybe after an evening's heavy drinking, I don't know.

0:15:38 > 0:15:40You're absolutely right.

0:15:40 > 0:15:41But Wallis Simpson was a foodie,

0:15:41 > 0:15:43despite the fact that she was really very slim,

0:15:43 > 0:15:46and despite the fact that she very famously said

0:15:46 > 0:15:49"You can't be too rich or too thin."

0:15:49 > 0:15:51And you're going to do one of her other dishes, aren't you?

0:15:51 > 0:15:54Yes, I am. I'm going to make Montego Bay ice

0:15:54 > 0:15:56with a buttery rum sauce to go on top.

0:15:56 > 0:15:58First of all, I'm going to make the ice.

0:15:58 > 0:16:01It's similar to a sorbet, it's a very light, refreshing dessert.

0:16:01 > 0:16:04So, you need the zest of two limes

0:16:04 > 0:16:07and juice of four of them.

0:16:07 > 0:16:09So when you are zesting a lime,

0:16:09 > 0:16:10just be careful that you don't go too far.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13- You don't get the white bit? - Yeah, that's what kind of makes it.

0:16:13 > 0:16:15And they're fairly thin-skinned, limes, quite often, aren't they?

0:16:15 > 0:16:17- Much thinner skinned than lemons. - Exactly, yes.

0:16:17 > 0:16:18That's true, that is true.

0:16:18 > 0:16:21- I know about these things. - The smell is beautiful, isn't it?

0:16:21 > 0:16:22- It does.- Isn't that fresh?

0:16:22 > 0:16:23I feel like it hits a part of your brain

0:16:23 > 0:16:26- and makes you feel more awake. - It reminds me of gin and tonic.

0:16:26 > 0:16:30- LAUGHING:- Yes, that's probably it. Exactly!

0:16:30 > 0:16:32So I'm just going to juice this lime now.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34- Mm-hm.- And it's a very easy recipe -

0:16:34 > 0:16:36you just whisk all the other ingredients in together,

0:16:36 > 0:16:39the sugar, the milk, a little bit of water.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41And do you use one of those kind of juicers?

0:16:41 > 0:16:43You don't kind of squeeze it in your hand?

0:16:43 > 0:16:47It's because I'm very lazy, so, you know, I let the juicer do the work.

0:16:47 > 0:16:49Then you're going to churn the ice cream for me.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51- Am I?- Yes.- OK, yep, yep.

0:16:51 > 0:16:54OK, so, just add the other ingredients in.

0:16:54 > 0:16:56Pretty easy, it's just water.

0:16:56 > 0:16:58- So the milk.- Mm-hmm.

0:17:00 > 0:17:02- Yep. And sugar?- Sugar.

0:17:02 > 0:17:05Just give it a really good whisk.

0:17:05 > 0:17:07Montego Bay is in the Caribbean, isn't it?

0:17:07 > 0:17:09That's right, yeah. Yes, it is.

0:17:09 > 0:17:11When he was the Duke of Windsor after the abdication,

0:17:11 > 0:17:14he was made governor of the Bahamas,

0:17:14 > 0:17:17because it was the war and they wanted him out of the way.

0:17:17 > 0:17:19And then the last thing to add is just a pinch of salt.

0:17:19 > 0:17:21Salt seems rather odd in a pudding.

0:17:21 > 0:17:23Well, salt is an enhancer.

0:17:23 > 0:17:27Sometimes, people think you put salt in food so it tastes salty,

0:17:27 > 0:17:29but actually, it can make the ingredients...

0:17:29 > 0:17:31- Bring out all the other flavours? - That's exactly it.

0:17:31 > 0:17:32- The lime and so on.- Yeah.

0:17:32 > 0:17:35- So you're going to take this to the ice cream maker.- OK, Chef.

0:17:35 > 0:17:38You're going to pour that in and churn it,

0:17:38 > 0:17:40and bring me back the other one from earlier.

0:17:40 > 0:17:42- Are you sure it's ready? - Yeah...- It looks very thin.

0:17:42 > 0:17:44Well, yeah, it's like a kind of sorbet.

0:17:44 > 0:17:46It's less kind of thick than what you would associate

0:17:46 > 0:17:49- with an ice cream. - OK, I'll be back in two shakes.

0:17:53 > 0:17:55Well, it's certainly churned.

0:17:55 > 0:17:57- Yeah, that's great. - Where do you want it?

0:17:57 > 0:17:59- On your board will be fine.- OK.

0:17:59 > 0:18:01OK, so, next, I'm going to make the buttered rum sauce,

0:18:01 > 0:18:02which is delicious.

0:18:02 > 0:18:05In here, I've got double cream and some vanilla,

0:18:05 > 0:18:08and I'm going to add in the brown sugar.

0:18:08 > 0:18:09Definitely not light.

0:18:09 > 0:18:11Definitely not light.

0:18:11 > 0:18:12But you don't want it to be,

0:18:12 > 0:18:15I mean, your ice is kind of quite fresh and light,

0:18:15 > 0:18:17where this gives it a lovely richness.

0:18:17 > 0:18:22I love the smell of lovely brown caramelised sugar.

0:18:23 > 0:18:26So, once your sugar's dissolved,

0:18:26 > 0:18:30I'm going to add the rum and we are going to bring it up to the boil.

0:18:30 > 0:18:32Wallis Simpson had quite a reputation as a cook,

0:18:32 > 0:18:34or at least as a giver of dinner parties.

0:18:34 > 0:18:37- Is that rum? - This is the rum, ready to go in.

0:18:37 > 0:18:38This is my kind of pudding.

0:18:38 > 0:18:41She apparently was credited with bringing in

0:18:41 > 0:18:43hot hors d'oeuvres,

0:18:43 > 0:18:45which were quite a novelty in London when she arrived.

0:18:45 > 0:18:48She picked up the way of miniaturising hot dishes

0:18:48 > 0:18:50in China, apparently. She'd lived in China

0:18:50 > 0:18:51before she met the Duke.

0:18:51 > 0:18:54So the last ingredient is our butter,

0:18:54 > 0:18:56our cubed butter that we're going to whisk in.

0:18:56 > 0:19:00Yeah. Strange, isn't it, that she should serve this kind of dish?

0:19:00 > 0:19:04The woman who said "You can't be too thin."

0:19:04 > 0:19:05"Let's have some more butter in there!

0:19:05 > 0:19:09"Let's have some more rum! Let's have some more brown sugar!"

0:19:09 > 0:19:11- Oh, it's looking lovely, isn't it? - Yeah.

0:19:11 > 0:19:13I'm going to take it off the heat now.

0:19:13 > 0:19:16- You can smell it.- You can, you can.

0:19:16 > 0:19:18- It's the rum, of course.- Yeah.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20You're boiling off all that wonderful alcohol.

0:19:20 > 0:19:22No, I've taken it off the heat now. Taken it off the heat.

0:19:22 > 0:19:24Don't want to do too much of that!

0:19:24 > 0:19:27No. And you want to pour this on the ice cream when it's...

0:19:27 > 0:19:29It's kind of, like... It's not hot, but it's not cold,

0:19:29 > 0:19:32so we've just got a little bit of a temperature in it.

0:19:32 > 0:19:33I think we're done.

0:19:35 > 0:19:36- What's that?- That's the vanilla pod.

0:19:36 > 0:19:40- Oh, yes, of course.- Working its way out there, I should get rid of that.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42I thought it was an eel for a moment.

0:19:42 > 0:19:44Not that kind of dish, eh?

0:19:44 > 0:19:45OK.

0:19:45 > 0:19:48Oh, that's rather crafty. You're putting it in a jug first.

0:19:48 > 0:19:49Because I'm a bit fancy.

0:19:49 > 0:19:54- Oh, you are.- OK. So, now, I'm going to ball our ice actually.

0:19:54 > 0:19:56- So let me see.- Yeah.

0:19:57 > 0:20:00Oh, that's nice.

0:20:00 > 0:20:02Do you like this idea? I mean, you're a professional cook,

0:20:02 > 0:20:03so you're professionally cooking it,

0:20:03 > 0:20:06but is it the sort of thing that you would have yourself?

0:20:06 > 0:20:08I would absolutely order this in a heartbeat.

0:20:08 > 0:20:09Would you not?

0:20:09 > 0:20:11- I'm not sure, really. - You don't like it?

0:20:11 > 0:20:12I'm not really a pudding person.

0:20:12 > 0:20:14But, you know, I'm converting.

0:20:14 > 0:20:16Now, you put three dollops...

0:20:16 > 0:20:18I am, and I'm going to do one more on top...

0:20:18 > 0:20:20- Oh, right. - My water's not very hot for this.

0:20:20 > 0:20:23You need a hot spoon to do that. They're special...

0:20:23 > 0:20:25What do you call that? A balling spoon?

0:20:25 > 0:20:28- Yeah, well, it's an ice cream baller.- Oh, right, right.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31This is a fancy one, because it's in a nice shape.

0:20:31 > 0:20:34And then we finish it with the hot sauce on top.

0:20:36 > 0:20:37Oh, now, that's looks good.

0:20:37 > 0:20:39- Yeah.- Yeah.

0:20:39 > 0:20:42- Do you want to do the honours? - I will. Put it down there.

0:20:42 > 0:20:44A rather big spoon, but it'll do.

0:20:44 > 0:20:45Big spoons are me.

0:20:45 > 0:20:48- Two spoons. - No, come on, you can help.

0:20:48 > 0:20:50Go on, you made it. You're first dabs.

0:20:50 > 0:20:53You're very good.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55- I see you've got...- I'm more interested in the sauce!

0:20:55 > 0:20:58Quite a lot of the rum, as far as I can see!

0:20:58 > 0:21:00Ooh! That packs a punch.

0:21:01 > 0:21:03Mmm.

0:21:03 > 0:21:04Mm.

0:21:04 > 0:21:05It does, doesn't it?

0:21:05 > 0:21:07I could watch you eat all day.

0:21:11 > 0:21:13- Mmm!- I love how you have to keep going back...

0:21:13 > 0:21:17"I'm just not sure about that, just a little bit more."

0:21:17 > 0:21:18I've got this whole bowl here.

0:21:18 > 0:21:21I'm not quite sure. But you can imagine, can't you?

0:21:21 > 0:21:24Duke and Duchess of Windsor, their celebrity friends,

0:21:24 > 0:21:27somewhere in the Bahamas, and at the end of the evening...

0:21:28 > 0:21:31..it would almost make up for not being king, I suppose.

0:21:31 > 0:21:32But there you go.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39Diana Princess of Wales has to be

0:21:39 > 0:21:42one of the most celebrated royal consorts.

0:21:42 > 0:21:45She had her own distinctive style,

0:21:45 > 0:21:47and that extended to the kitchen

0:21:47 > 0:21:49and the sort of food she liked to be served,

0:21:49 > 0:21:52as her former cook Carolyn Robb remembers well.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58When Carolyn Robb first joined the Royal Household,

0:21:58 > 0:22:02little did she know she'd spend 11 years with the Princess of Wales.

0:22:02 > 0:22:06Together, they shaped and updated the royal home cooking menus.

0:22:07 > 0:22:11Today, I'm going to do something that I used to prepare a lot

0:22:11 > 0:22:13for Princess Diana.

0:22:13 > 0:22:15Stuffed aubergine was her absolute favourite.

0:22:15 > 0:22:18I love it because it's really simple to make.

0:22:18 > 0:22:22We start off by cutting from end to end through the stalk.

0:22:22 > 0:22:26All the kitchens that I cooked in tended to be domestic kitchens.

0:22:26 > 0:22:29The kitchen at Highgrove was a lovely country house kitchen,

0:22:29 > 0:22:31really, with an Aga, of course,

0:22:31 > 0:22:34and then we also used to go up to Balmoral,

0:22:34 > 0:22:36and again, that was just a lovely country home.

0:22:36 > 0:22:39Sandringham was the kitchen that was the biggest of all of them.

0:22:39 > 0:22:42It was the only stainless steel kitchen that we cooked in.

0:22:42 > 0:22:43None of them were fancy, though,

0:22:43 > 0:22:45and the family did come into the kitchen quite a lot,

0:22:45 > 0:22:48which was lovely, because they were really homely.

0:22:48 > 0:22:51Sprinkle a generous amount of olive oil...

0:22:51 > 0:22:53So I will just pop it in the oven.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56While the aubergine bakes for half an hour,

0:22:56 > 0:22:58Carolyn starts a tomato sauce,

0:22:58 > 0:23:00using onions, garlic and herbs.

0:23:00 > 0:23:04Another component of this stuffed aubergine is some bulgur wheat,

0:23:04 > 0:23:07which I'm going to put in with red onion now and get that cooked.

0:23:07 > 0:23:10On its own, it's not hugely tasty,

0:23:10 > 0:23:14so put some thyme in, a good twist of pepper and a pinch of salt.

0:23:14 > 0:23:17Give that a good stir and add in the water.

0:23:17 > 0:23:20SIZZLING

0:23:20 > 0:23:24I'm going to pop the lid on and leave that to come to the boil.

0:23:24 > 0:23:26Next job's to dice up some peppers.

0:23:26 > 0:23:28Today, I've got a yellow and a red.

0:23:28 > 0:23:31Carolyn's home style cuisine was a real favourite

0:23:31 > 0:23:33with the Prince and Princess.

0:23:33 > 0:23:35People always assume that the Royal Family

0:23:35 > 0:23:40lived on caviar and lobster, but it wasn't like that at all.

0:23:40 > 0:23:43Obviously, they had to dine out a lot,

0:23:43 > 0:23:44so when they were at home,

0:23:44 > 0:23:47they just wanted to eat really nice, simple, homely food.

0:23:47 > 0:23:50Prince Charles obviously enjoyed a lot of fresh vegetables

0:23:50 > 0:23:53from his garden, and I guess the challenge is in making comfort food

0:23:53 > 0:23:55look something really special.

0:23:55 > 0:23:56I'm going to put in a little pepper...

0:23:56 > 0:24:00I'll season them with a little salt and sugar at the end of cooking,

0:24:00 > 0:24:03otherwise they tend to burn a little bit.

0:24:03 > 0:24:05I'm just going to pop these on the stove.

0:24:05 > 0:24:09The peppers need to saute, while the aubergines come out of the oven.

0:24:09 > 0:24:13I'm going to start now by taking the flesh out of the aubergines.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18I really enjoyed cooking for Princess Diana,

0:24:18 > 0:24:20because I could do some slightly different things.

0:24:20 > 0:24:23She didn't always go for the traditional things

0:24:23 > 0:24:26that I think the rest of the Royal Family probably always had.

0:24:26 > 0:24:28She brought a slightly different perspective,

0:24:28 > 0:24:30certainly with food.

0:24:30 > 0:24:33I would say things became slightly less formal.

0:24:33 > 0:24:36I wouldn't say that something like stuffed aubergine, for example,

0:24:36 > 0:24:39was a really typical thing to have on a royal menu,

0:24:39 > 0:24:43but it certainly became a regular once she started having it.

0:24:43 > 0:24:48So now, I've got all the bits I need to layer this up.

0:24:48 > 0:24:51This is the bit where you can really have fun.

0:24:51 > 0:24:54Carolyn layers up the bulgur wheat, peppers, sauce,

0:24:54 > 0:24:57aubergine and goat's cheese back into the skins.

0:24:57 > 0:25:02And after 15 minutes in the oven, her Diana favourite is ready.

0:25:02 > 0:25:05There we go, those are baked.

0:25:05 > 0:25:07The tomatoes have cooked down a little bit

0:25:07 > 0:25:10and the aubergines are looking nice as well.

0:25:10 > 0:25:13Now, this is where we have to be very careful.

0:25:15 > 0:25:16There we go.

0:25:16 > 0:25:18And then we're just going to add a few

0:25:18 > 0:25:21of these beautifully coloured little tomatoes.

0:25:21 > 0:25:23One more tiny bit just for the top here,

0:25:23 > 0:25:25and then that's ready to go.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28This is a dish that, although it may be fit for a princess,

0:25:28 > 0:25:30it's really fit for anyone.

0:25:30 > 0:25:32It's just simple home cooking -

0:25:32 > 0:25:33it's nourishing, it's warming,

0:25:33 > 0:25:36and I don't think you can do much better than this.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46For any chef, working for the Royal Family

0:25:46 > 0:25:48is an experience of a lifetime,

0:25:48 > 0:25:51especially as some royal consorts take a particular interest

0:25:51 > 0:25:52in the kitchens.

0:25:54 > 0:25:58This is Darren McGrady who worked as a chef in the Royal kitchens

0:25:58 > 0:26:02from 1982 to 1997, that's for the Queen and Prince Philip,

0:26:02 > 0:26:04and later, for Princess Diana.

0:26:04 > 0:26:06But paint me a picture, Darren,

0:26:06 > 0:26:10of what it's like working in the Buckingham Palace kitchen.

0:26:10 > 0:26:12It was an amazing experience.

0:26:12 > 0:26:13Sometimes, the Queen was on her own,

0:26:13 > 0:26:15so it was just a sort of a light lunch,

0:26:15 > 0:26:17something like grilled fish and salad

0:26:17 > 0:26:20with 300 staff to feed, of course, as well.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23But other times, the next day, it could be a state banquet.

0:26:23 > 0:26:27And then it was all hands on deck, 20 chefs in the kitchen,

0:26:27 > 0:26:28working 17-hour days.

0:26:28 > 0:26:30And state of the art?

0:26:30 > 0:26:31Oh, gosh, no.

0:26:31 > 0:26:34No, the pans were dating back to Queen Victoria.

0:26:34 > 0:26:35Antique copper pans.

0:26:35 > 0:26:37And the whisks and ladles were too.

0:26:37 > 0:26:40They were almost 90 years old.

0:26:40 > 0:26:44What about the Queen and her other half, Prince Philip?

0:26:44 > 0:26:47Was their attitude to food the same?

0:26:47 > 0:26:49No, not really.

0:26:49 > 0:26:53The Queen ate to live, rather than lives to eat,

0:26:53 > 0:26:54but Prince Philip loves to cook.

0:26:54 > 0:26:57Now, the Queen still is interested in what's going on,

0:26:57 > 0:27:00especially when she's entertaining,

0:27:00 > 0:27:04but Prince Philip, he's the one that loves to be hands-on in the kitchen.

0:27:04 > 0:27:07He likes dining out, doesn't he, in the sense of alfresco?

0:27:07 > 0:27:09He likes picnics, he likes barbecues...

0:27:09 > 0:27:10- He does.- So what's it like in the kitchen

0:27:10 > 0:27:12when he is preparing one of those?

0:27:12 > 0:27:14You never really know what's going to happen.

0:27:14 > 0:27:15You have something prepared

0:27:15 > 0:27:17and he comes in and wants something different.

0:27:17 > 0:27:21If there's any game off the estate, any pheasant, partridge,

0:27:21 > 0:27:24venison, grouse, then, OK, let's have that,

0:27:24 > 0:27:26and then any chocolate, cos the Queen loves chocolate,

0:27:26 > 0:27:27then he will choose that too.

0:27:27 > 0:27:29You make it sound as if he comes down to the kitchens

0:27:29 > 0:27:30kind of raiding them.

0:27:30 > 0:27:33At Balmoral, that's pretty much what he does do.

0:27:33 > 0:27:34He just goes and chooses what he wants,

0:27:34 > 0:27:36and you have to have it ready.

0:27:36 > 0:27:39Sometimes, that means chefs running out at seven o'clock at night

0:27:39 > 0:27:41and picking berries with torches,

0:27:41 > 0:27:44because he's seen during the day some raspberries that look beautiful

0:27:44 > 0:27:46and we want them for dinner that night.

0:27:46 > 0:27:48And you've cooked for Princess Diana too.

0:27:48 > 0:27:50Different generation? Different attitude to food?

0:27:50 > 0:27:52She was. When I joined the princess, she said,

0:27:52 > 0:27:54"You take care of all the fats

0:27:54 > 0:27:56"and I'll take care of the carbs at the gym."

0:27:56 > 0:27:58So it was healthy eating for her.

0:27:58 > 0:28:00She loved a dish called Egg Suzette,

0:28:00 > 0:28:02a baked potato with spinach in the bottom

0:28:02 > 0:28:05and then a poached egg and hollandaise sauce over the top.

0:28:05 > 0:28:07And a bit of a contradiction to her other half,

0:28:07 > 0:28:08Prince Charles, I imagine?

0:28:08 > 0:28:10Yes, Prince Charles was into Italian food,

0:28:10 > 0:28:14so he liked all the pastas and all of the Italian foods,

0:28:14 > 0:28:16like polentas and things.

0:28:16 > 0:28:19- You must miss it?- Well, I do. I miss the state banquets.

0:28:19 > 0:28:23You know, there's nothing that makes you more proud

0:28:23 > 0:28:25than being on the Royal yacht Britannia,

0:28:25 > 0:28:30sailing into Miami, a huge flotilla of boats all around you,

0:28:30 > 0:28:32jetting water and honking horns.

0:28:32 > 0:28:34The Royal Marines Band up on the top deck

0:28:34 > 0:28:36playing A Life On The Ocean Wave.

0:28:36 > 0:28:38There are you, in the Royal galley,

0:28:38 > 0:28:42preparing a banquet for President Reagan and President Ford.

0:28:45 > 0:28:48Royal kings and queens have often treated their consorts

0:28:48 > 0:28:50to a specialist confection,

0:28:50 > 0:28:52largely thanks to Edward VII,

0:28:52 > 0:28:56who persuaded his favourite chocolatier to leave Paris.

0:29:03 > 0:29:06Some of the most glamorous royal consorts

0:29:06 > 0:29:10have shared a common taste for a rather special type of chocolate.

0:29:10 > 0:29:12This box holds three kilos of chocolates.

0:29:12 > 0:29:18So it's a lot of chocolate and it will set you back £1,700.

0:29:18 > 0:29:21Charbonnel et Walker have been selling luxury chocolates

0:29:21 > 0:29:24in the heart of London for over 140 years.

0:29:24 > 0:29:28Adam Lee is currently head chocolatier.

0:29:28 > 0:29:31Loved by the Queen Mum, Wallis Simpson and Diana,

0:29:31 > 0:29:34the company has a close relationship with the Palace.

0:29:36 > 0:29:39Without the Royal Family, we wouldn't be here.

0:29:39 > 0:29:43That's because back in 1875,

0:29:43 > 0:29:46the kind of chocolate that was being produced in the UK

0:29:46 > 0:29:48was of a very inferior quality

0:29:48 > 0:29:52to what was being produced on the Continent, for example.

0:29:52 > 0:29:56At that time, the Prince of Wales, who later became King Edward VII,

0:29:56 > 0:30:00was a huge fan of the Parisian style of chocolate making,

0:30:00 > 0:30:03and one of his favourite chocolatiers in Paris

0:30:03 > 0:30:06was Madame Charbonnel. There we go.

0:30:06 > 0:30:09She worked for a company called Maison Boissier,

0:30:09 > 0:30:11and he persuaded her to come over to the UK

0:30:11 > 0:30:15and to introduce her way of chocolate making

0:30:15 > 0:30:17to the UK chocolatiers over here.

0:30:17 > 0:30:21So our royal connection goes right back to our very, very beginnings.

0:30:22 > 0:30:25They still hand-make their chocolates

0:30:25 > 0:30:27to the original 19th-century recipes,

0:30:27 > 0:30:31including two very special floral flavours.

0:30:31 > 0:30:35The rose and violet creams are a huge favourite

0:30:35 > 0:30:37with lots of members of the Royal Family.

0:30:37 > 0:30:41There's a lovely anecdote about the late Queen Mother,

0:30:41 > 0:30:43who was a huge patron of ours.

0:30:43 > 0:30:46It was said that when she was out on official duties,

0:30:46 > 0:30:49she would always have in her handbag a few rose and violet creams

0:30:49 > 0:30:53that she would sneakily pop every now and again.

0:30:53 > 0:30:54It's a lovely story,

0:30:54 > 0:30:58and they were indeed one of her favourite chocolates.

0:30:58 > 0:31:01And it's not only what's inside the boxes

0:31:01 > 0:31:04that makes these chocolates loved by the elite.

0:31:04 > 0:31:06Madame Charbonnel was the chocolatier,

0:31:06 > 0:31:10but Mrs Walker was the lady who made the packaging

0:31:10 > 0:31:12and hat boxes and jewellery boxes.

0:31:12 > 0:31:17So they combined their efforts to get to this chocolates and packaging

0:31:17 > 0:31:19that beautifully complemented each other.

0:31:19 > 0:31:21And we still stick to that today.

0:31:25 > 0:31:28Often decorated with silk and crystals,

0:31:28 > 0:31:32the company also designed special boxes for royal events.

0:31:32 > 0:31:36Though being royal warrant holders, they have to get Palace approval.

0:31:36 > 0:31:38So when it comes to product development,

0:31:38 > 0:31:43we have to bear in mind, is this product going to

0:31:43 > 0:31:44sit well within our range?

0:31:44 > 0:31:47Because there are certain rules and regulations

0:31:47 > 0:31:49that we have to adhere to to keep our royal warrant.

0:31:49 > 0:31:53Though one new truffle flavour should please the Queen.

0:31:53 > 0:31:54It does sit beautifully with who we are.

0:31:54 > 0:31:55I mean, gin and tonic -

0:31:55 > 0:31:57it doesn't get much more English than that, does it?

0:32:03 > 0:32:07A sweet tooth seems to run throughout the Royal Family.

0:32:07 > 0:32:09That certainly shows in their love of puddings.

0:32:09 > 0:32:13The Duke of Edinburgh's favourite - Andrassy Pudding.

0:32:15 > 0:32:19All the Royal Family seem to have their favourite dishes, don't they?

0:32:19 > 0:32:20Just like the rest of us, I suppose.

0:32:20 > 0:32:24Prince Philip's is supposed to be something called Andrassy Pudding?

0:32:24 > 0:32:27Yeah, I think that's something to do with a failed chocolate souffle.

0:32:27 > 0:32:29Yeah, there's a story to it. There's a story to it.

0:32:29 > 0:32:32Count Andrassy was a relative of the Royal Family,

0:32:32 > 0:32:36invited to Buckingham Palace before the First World War, I think.

0:32:36 > 0:32:39They asked the kitchen to knock him up as souffle,

0:32:39 > 0:32:41and the souffle was a disaster.

0:32:41 > 0:32:44- Oh, God.- But the chef managed to cover it up in some way

0:32:44 > 0:32:46by frosting it and sticking little bits of chocolate on it

0:32:46 > 0:32:49and served it, and it was a sensation.

0:32:49 > 0:32:53It was actually a disaster, and yet, somehow, it was a success.

0:32:53 > 0:32:55Well, I've actually looked at the recipe,

0:32:55 > 0:32:58and straightaway, I could tell that there's just too much flour in it,

0:32:58 > 0:33:01so there was no hope from the get-go that it was ever going to work.

0:33:01 > 0:33:02It was always going to be a failure.

0:33:02 > 0:33:06But today, I'm hoping to make the souffle that should have been.

0:33:06 > 0:33:08So let's get cracking.

0:33:08 > 0:33:09OK, what do you do first?

0:33:09 > 0:33:11OK, so, first I'm going to make the creme pat,

0:33:11 > 0:33:15which is butter, cocoa, flour and sugar.

0:33:15 > 0:33:18You need to melt them down.

0:33:18 > 0:33:20Then I'm going to add some milk to it.

0:33:20 > 0:33:25Most souffle recipes have some sort of creme pat in them.

0:33:25 > 0:33:26You keep saying creme pat.

0:33:26 > 0:33:30- Yes.- Is that a fancy chef's word for something?

0:33:30 > 0:33:31Gosh, is it fancy?

0:33:31 > 0:33:34- Does everybody not say creme pat? - It's not in my household.

0:33:34 > 0:33:36Creme pat doesn't reach our lips.

0:33:36 > 0:33:41- What does it mean?- OK, well, it's a bit like pastry cream.

0:33:41 > 0:33:44- Yeah.- So it's like a kind of custardy type thing,

0:33:44 > 0:33:46like a little bit flour in it?

0:33:46 > 0:33:49But, yeah. Pastry cream is probably the English word for it.

0:33:49 > 0:33:51And pat is just short for patissiere, I suppose, is it?

0:33:51 > 0:33:54That's right, yeah. Just trying to get this butter to melt down a bit.

0:33:54 > 0:33:56- I might turn up the heat.- Mm-hm.

0:33:56 > 0:33:59This is going to be really rich, isn't it? All that butter.

0:33:59 > 0:34:01It will, but when you make a souffle,

0:34:01 > 0:34:04you should have nearly equal quantities of your flavour base.

0:34:04 > 0:34:06Here it's this chocolate creme pat.

0:34:06 > 0:34:08It should be equal quantities of that to egg white,,

0:34:08 > 0:34:10so that's what makes it kind of beautiful and light

0:34:10 > 0:34:12and makes it kind of rise.

0:34:12 > 0:34:18Why are souffles considered by amateurs to be high risk?

0:34:18 > 0:34:21Well, maybe originally it would have come from the oven

0:34:21 > 0:34:23needing to be a special kind of fan-assisted oven,

0:34:23 > 0:34:25which we all now have in our houses.

0:34:25 > 0:34:29And secondly, I think you need to make sure you get your base right,

0:34:29 > 0:34:32you need to make sure your mould is buttered

0:34:32 > 0:34:35and it's chilled, and then not to over-whisk your egg whites.

0:34:35 > 0:34:37So I think it's all of those things added together

0:34:37 > 0:34:41creates basically a Russian roulette dessert for some people.

0:34:41 > 0:34:44But if you follow the kind of basic rules, they should work out.

0:34:44 > 0:34:46But I'd say chocolate souffle

0:34:46 > 0:34:50- is probably the most ambitious of all souffles.- Why?

0:34:50 > 0:34:51Because there's something in chocolate

0:34:51 > 0:34:54that seems to make the egg white break down faster

0:34:54 > 0:34:56- than other flavours. - Oh, right.

0:34:56 > 0:34:57So souffle is high risk

0:34:57 > 0:35:01and the chocolate souffle is extra high risk?

0:35:01 > 0:35:02Lots of things to go wrong.

0:35:02 > 0:35:04Hopefully, today, none of those things will go wrong.

0:35:04 > 0:35:06I'm making the creme pat for the chocolate souffle,

0:35:06 > 0:35:10so I've just melted down my cocoa, my butter, sugar, flour,

0:35:10 > 0:35:13and I've just added warm milk in on top of that.

0:35:13 > 0:35:15And what I need to do is give it a nice little stir,

0:35:15 > 0:35:18and once it starts to bubble, that means it's done.

0:35:18 > 0:35:20It's very a la minute - once you've made your souffle,

0:35:20 > 0:35:22it must go in the oven and bake,

0:35:22 > 0:35:25but if you make a strawberry souffle or a cherry souffle...

0:35:26 > 0:35:28..they actually could be made a couple of hours in advance

0:35:28 > 0:35:30and they could sit in the fridge, if you wanted.

0:35:30 > 0:35:33You know, perfect if you were trying to do some, you know,

0:35:33 > 0:35:36really special Christmas Day dessert or a dinner party.

0:35:36 > 0:35:37Are you nervous?

0:35:37 > 0:35:41I am absolutely trying to hide all of my nerves, Michael.

0:35:41 > 0:35:44Because right now, I can just feel your eyes on me,

0:35:44 > 0:35:47expecting the most perfect chocolate souffle.

0:35:47 > 0:35:48Well, exactly. Of course I'm expecting

0:35:48 > 0:35:51the most perfect chocolate souffle.

0:35:51 > 0:35:52So, this is done now.

0:35:52 > 0:35:54It's just starting to bubble.

0:35:54 > 0:35:57- Mm-hm.- You can see it's starting to bubble, and that means it's ready.

0:35:57 > 0:36:01So I'm just going to set that aside, because it needs to be chilled,

0:36:01 > 0:36:04so I actually have one that I made earlier on.

0:36:04 > 0:36:08And you need roughly about equal quantities of your chocolate base

0:36:08 > 0:36:09to your egg whites.

0:36:09 > 0:36:13I'm going to put 50g of sugar in it with my egg whites,

0:36:13 > 0:36:16and what this does is it strengthens the egg white a little bit

0:36:16 > 0:36:18so that when you fold it in, it can kind of hold its own

0:36:18 > 0:36:22with this bully chocolate that's going on.

0:36:22 > 0:36:25You see it in terms of a contest in there, do you, as it mixes up?

0:36:25 > 0:36:30Yeah. It needs to be a perfect marriage really.

0:36:30 > 0:36:32- OK.- There's so many things that could go wrong with this.

0:36:32 > 0:36:34Stop saying that, Michael, stop saying that.

0:36:34 > 0:36:36- No, no, no, I don't want... - Everything's going to be OK.

0:36:36 > 0:36:38Put your trust in me, the professional.

0:36:38 > 0:36:40OK, I'm going to lift over my mould,

0:36:40 > 0:36:42and you can see that it's been buttered.

0:36:42 > 0:36:46- Yeah.- What's really important is that the butter is not melted,

0:36:46 > 0:36:49it's just soft, it's room temperature

0:36:49 > 0:36:53and it needs to be good brushstrokes on the way up,

0:36:53 > 0:36:56because you're trying to encourage, obviously, this rise.

0:36:56 > 0:36:58If you do it the other way, what happens?

0:36:58 > 0:36:59Well, it just makes it more difficult.

0:36:59 > 0:37:02It just makes for more possibility of it going wrong.

0:37:02 > 0:37:06So you are doing everything in your power to make it a success.

0:37:06 > 0:37:09- Yeah.- And this is kind of chocolate gratings or curls.

0:37:09 > 0:37:11So you've got the butter in there,

0:37:11 > 0:37:13swept upwards and you've got grated chocolate in there too.

0:37:13 > 0:37:17- Yeah.- Wow. Imagine trying to do this by hand.

0:37:17 > 0:37:18I know. I think about this all the time.

0:37:18 > 0:37:21When this was created, like, it was all done by hand.

0:37:21 > 0:37:22It's insane.

0:37:22 > 0:37:25You'd have real beefy, prop forward shoulders if you were doing that.

0:37:25 > 0:37:26Yeah.

0:37:26 > 0:37:29OK, so, this is ready now.

0:37:29 > 0:37:30It's really, really puffed up.

0:37:30 > 0:37:32Yeah. OK.

0:37:33 > 0:37:35Oh, this is the trickiest part.

0:37:36 > 0:37:40OK, so now I need to fold in my mix.

0:37:40 > 0:37:42- Mm-hm.- OK, so, first of all. I'm just going to put

0:37:42 > 0:37:45a small amount of egg white in with the chocolate

0:37:45 > 0:37:48and I'm just going to lighten that up.

0:37:48 > 0:37:53OK. Then I'm going to put probably half of this mix in there now.

0:37:53 > 0:37:56Why a little bit first and then a bigger bit?

0:37:56 > 0:37:59Because we are trying to prevent lumps

0:37:59 > 0:38:01and the more similar the mixes are in texture,

0:38:01 > 0:38:03the better that they are going to incorporate.

0:38:03 > 0:38:08So it's just lightening up that chocolate mix in the beginning,

0:38:08 > 0:38:09and especially if it's a bit cold,

0:38:09 > 0:38:11- you really need to beat it in a bit more.- Yeah.

0:38:11 > 0:38:15So once this is kind of halfway folded through the second time,

0:38:15 > 0:38:19- I'm going to add the rest of it. Oops. Messy.- Oh, dear.- Yeah.

0:38:21 > 0:38:22Oh, that's rather nice.

0:38:22 > 0:38:25Yes, I think you are a bit of a fan of chocolate, Michael?

0:38:25 > 0:38:27Yeah, I can eat chocolate, yeah.

0:38:27 > 0:38:29I haven't got a sweet tooth, really, though.

0:38:29 > 0:38:31HE CHUCKLES

0:38:31 > 0:38:32I don't believe that for a second.

0:38:32 > 0:38:35No. Still got the veins of white in the chocolate, hasn't it?

0:38:35 > 0:38:38That's it. But the whole time, I'm really trying to protect

0:38:38 > 0:38:40the air of the souffle.

0:38:40 > 0:38:42So you are folding rather than beating?

0:38:42 > 0:38:45- Folding. It is all about folding, folding, folding.- Hmm.

0:38:45 > 0:38:49OK, then I'm just going to pour this into the mould.

0:38:49 > 0:38:51Prince Philip, this is his favourite dish.

0:38:51 > 0:38:53Do you think his favourite is the failure?

0:38:53 > 0:38:55Do you think he actually likes the sunken one?

0:38:55 > 0:38:57I don't know. Maybe I'll have to call around

0:38:57 > 0:39:00and do the souffle for him and see which one he prefers.

0:39:00 > 0:39:02OK.

0:39:02 > 0:39:03OK, so scrape this off.

0:39:06 > 0:39:08Beautiful.

0:39:08 > 0:39:10I can't really imagine that the failed one tasted very nice.

0:39:10 > 0:39:11I don't know.

0:39:11 > 0:39:14I mean, as a kid, I used to like cakes that had failed.

0:39:14 > 0:39:15I liked the soggy ones.

0:39:15 > 0:39:17- Really?- I love all that.

0:39:17 > 0:39:20Oh, that's so adorable. Imagine Michael a little kid,

0:39:20 > 0:39:21eating his failed cakes.

0:39:21 > 0:39:24I was very sweet actually.

0:39:24 > 0:39:25Now what are you doing?

0:39:25 > 0:39:28OK, so I'm just cleaning around the outside, so it doesn't catch,

0:39:28 > 0:39:32but I might have to do this twice, because it's such a big mould.

0:39:32 > 0:39:35This is much bigger than your average souffle.

0:39:35 > 0:39:38So this will take about 30 minutes to cook inside the oven,

0:39:38 > 0:39:40but, really, if you had individual portions,

0:39:40 > 0:39:43- they'll cook in about six-seven minutes.- Quicker?

0:39:43 > 0:39:44- Oh, my goodness.- Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:39:44 > 0:39:46Because that's one of the things in restaurants.

0:39:46 > 0:39:48If you want a souffle, they kind of say,

0:39:48 > 0:39:50"Allow 20 minutes or half an hour or something."

0:39:50 > 0:39:52That's very often because we will do it a la minute,

0:39:52 > 0:39:54just whisk it up when it's ordered.

0:39:54 > 0:39:55A la minute?

0:39:55 > 0:39:58A la minute. We will just do it at the minute when you order,

0:39:58 > 0:40:00so that it's super fresh.

0:40:00 > 0:40:02OK, great.

0:40:02 > 0:40:04So this goes into the oven, 200 degrees for 30 minutes.

0:40:04 > 0:40:07OK, Chef.

0:40:08 > 0:40:10OK, right, just get this organised.

0:40:13 > 0:40:16It's in, Anna. It's on its way.

0:40:16 > 0:40:19Wonderful, great, so we better get cracking on the chocolate sauce.

0:40:19 > 0:40:21This is a very simple chocolate sauce.

0:40:21 > 0:40:23But it's also very delicious.

0:40:23 > 0:40:25I'm just going to add all of the ingredients in together.

0:40:25 > 0:40:28I have some golden syrup in the pan now.

0:40:28 > 0:40:33I'm going to add chopped chocolate, I'm going to add cocoa powder,

0:40:33 > 0:40:37then double cream, of course, I know.

0:40:37 > 0:40:40It wouldn't be a delicious chocolate sauce without a load of cream.

0:40:40 > 0:40:43You don't have a spasm of guilt over all this?

0:40:43 > 0:40:45- Look, there's some healthy stuff going in. Some water.- That's OK.

0:40:45 > 0:40:48So everything else is OK, balances out.

0:40:48 > 0:40:52And then a pinch of salt, just give it a good whisk,

0:40:52 > 0:40:55bring it up to the boil and then you just have a lovely chocolate sauce.

0:40:55 > 0:40:59- And that's it, is it? - Yes. I mean, it's foolproof.

0:40:59 > 0:41:02Around about this stage, all those years ago,

0:41:02 > 0:41:06the chef must have realised his souffle was not going to work.

0:41:06 > 0:41:08And can you imagine that?

0:41:08 > 0:41:09It's a bad moment for you, isn't it?

0:41:09 > 0:41:12Can you imagine that you are about to serve a chocolate souffle

0:41:12 > 0:41:14- to the Royal Family and it's collapsed?- Yeah.

0:41:14 > 0:41:15Have you had any disasters?

0:41:15 > 0:41:18No, Michael, I've never had a disaster. I mean...

0:41:18 > 0:41:19HE CHUCKLES

0:41:19 > 0:41:21I'm embarrassed to say, but, you know,

0:41:21 > 0:41:23I've never made a mistake in my life.

0:41:23 > 0:41:26No, I've had a couple of disasters in my time.

0:41:26 > 0:41:27Do you disguise them or start again?

0:41:27 > 0:41:29I would always start again, yeah.

0:41:29 > 0:41:32But, you know, I don't know the situation of that night

0:41:32 > 0:41:35with the chocolate. Maybe he had no more chocolate left.

0:41:35 > 0:41:37So the sauce is ready now.

0:41:37 > 0:41:39Ooh, that's nice and hot.

0:41:40 > 0:41:42- This is tricky, isn't it? - Oh, it is tricky.

0:41:42 > 0:41:44You might spill a bit.

0:41:44 > 0:41:46That's terrific.

0:41:46 > 0:41:48OK, so that's our chocolate sauce ready.

0:41:48 > 0:41:49- Mm-hm.- Moment of truth.

0:41:49 > 0:41:51Off to the oven.

0:41:58 > 0:41:59Oh!

0:41:59 > 0:42:00Ooh-hoo-hoo!

0:42:00 > 0:42:02Ooh-hoo-hoo-hoo!

0:42:02 > 0:42:03I nearly dropped it!

0:42:04 > 0:42:08Look at that, a race against time now, eh?

0:42:08 > 0:42:10Ow!

0:42:10 > 0:42:11Gosh, it looks fantastic, doesn't it?

0:42:11 > 0:42:15- It's making a bid for freedom. - It looks beautiful.

0:42:15 > 0:42:16Come on, come on.

0:42:16 > 0:42:20I'm pouring the chocolate sauce now into the centre of the souffle,

0:42:20 > 0:42:25so you have a beautiful, gooey chocolate delight.

0:42:25 > 0:42:28- It's like a volcano!- I'm going to insist that you go first.

0:42:28 > 0:42:29Oh, yes, please.

0:42:29 > 0:42:31I'm going to have some of that chocolate sauce.

0:42:31 > 0:42:33Oh, lovely!

0:42:35 > 0:42:38Mmm! It's so light.

0:42:38 > 0:42:41I'm not sure which part I prefer. The souffle or the sauce.

0:42:41 > 0:42:42Mmm. They are both wonderful.

0:42:42 > 0:42:44Mmm.

0:42:44 > 0:42:46Mm!

0:42:46 > 0:42:48That's a dish PROPERLY fit for a prince.

0:42:50 > 0:42:53And that's it from our programme about the food

0:42:53 > 0:42:56enjoyed by royal consorts.

0:42:56 > 0:42:58See you next time.

0:42:58 > 0:42:59Go on, go on, go on.