Jubilee

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04The Royal family are steeped in tradition and, throughout history,

0:00:04 > 0:00:07the Royal tables have showcased culinary excellence.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09In celebration of royal food...

0:00:09 > 0:00:11We know it's the Queen's recipe

0:00:11 > 0:00:13because we've got it in her own hand.

0:00:13 > 0:00:14..from the present and the past...

0:00:14 > 0:00:17That is proper regal.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20..we recreate old family favourites.

0:00:20 > 0:00:25Now, the Queen Mother had this really wicked trick with these.

0:00:25 > 0:00:26What a mess.

0:00:26 > 0:00:29We sample Royal eating alfresco...

0:00:29 > 0:00:31- Oh, wow! - THAT is what you want.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34..and revisit the most extravagant times.

0:00:34 > 0:00:38Pheasant, stag, turkey, salmon, oysters, and turbot,

0:00:38 > 0:00:39dressed in a lobster champagne sauce.

0:00:39 > 0:00:41Unbelievable!

0:00:41 > 0:00:43This is Royal Recipes.

0:00:47 > 0:00:51Hello, I'm Michael Buerk, and welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55This is Audley End, one of Britain's finest stately homes,

0:00:55 > 0:00:59built in the style of a royal palace and once owned by a king.

0:00:59 > 0:01:01In the splendour of the gardens,

0:01:01 > 0:01:05halls and kitchen of this grandest of country houses,

0:01:05 > 0:01:10we'll be recreating the food served at the highest royal tables.

0:01:10 > 0:01:13And it all starts here, with this gem,

0:01:13 > 0:01:16a royal kitchen maid's cookbook -

0:01:16 > 0:01:20the only surviving recipe book of its kind in the Royal archive.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23This is an exact copy of the original,

0:01:23 > 0:01:25which is kept at Windsor Castle.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28Inside, the recipes of Mildred Nicholls,

0:01:28 > 0:01:32who worked at Buckingham Palace in the early 1900s.

0:01:32 > 0:01:35And for the first time in over 100 years,

0:01:35 > 0:01:37we'll be bringing these recipes back to life.

0:01:41 > 0:01:45This time, we're cooking food served to celebrate a jubilee.

0:01:45 > 0:01:49Queen Elizabeth II, Britain's longest reigning monarch,

0:01:49 > 0:01:51knows more than most about how to put on a great show

0:01:51 > 0:01:54for these most special of royal anniversaries.

0:01:55 > 0:01:57Today in the Royal Recipes kitchen,

0:01:57 > 0:02:02chef Anna Haugh tries some unusual 19th-century ingredients...

0:02:02 > 0:02:04And now, our final ingredient, cockscomb.

0:02:04 > 0:02:05MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:02:05 > 0:02:08- What, the bit off its head?- Yeah. - Aren't they normally red?

0:02:08 > 0:02:13..as she prepares Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee dish.

0:02:13 > 0:02:15No, you don't like it!

0:02:16 > 0:02:19Historian Polly Russell discovers how Windsor revived

0:02:19 > 0:02:22the Royal Golden Jubilee ox roast.

0:02:22 > 0:02:24I wrote to the Queen and then we received a letter back...

0:02:24 > 0:02:26From Buckingham Palace?

0:02:26 > 0:02:27..from Buckingham Palace.

0:02:27 > 0:02:31And the Queen graciously agreeing to donating an ox for us.

0:02:31 > 0:02:32Sprinkle 'em over.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36And Paul Ainsworth gets creative with a British classic to honour

0:02:36 > 0:02:39the Queen's historic reign.

0:02:39 > 0:02:41And I hope you approve, ma'am.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48In the kitchen wing of this stately home,

0:02:48 > 0:02:50we start with the exquisite dishes

0:02:50 > 0:02:52created for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations.

0:02:52 > 0:02:56Hello, and here we are in the grand kitchen,

0:02:56 > 0:02:58with top London chef Anna Haugh.

0:02:58 > 0:03:01There is something special, isn't there,

0:03:01 > 0:03:05about living in the reign of Britain's longest-serving monarch?

0:03:05 > 0:03:07Oh, I love a good royal party!

0:03:08 > 0:03:10Well, the Queen has had lots of parties

0:03:10 > 0:03:11because she's had lots of jubilees.

0:03:11 > 0:03:13She's had three jubilees, hasn't she?

0:03:13 > 0:03:18There's Silver for 25, Gold for 50, and the Diamond for 60.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21And this is the menu for her luncheon,

0:03:21 > 0:03:25Diamond Jubilee luncheon, in 2012.

0:03:25 > 0:03:27Just three courses, unlike the eight or nine

0:03:27 > 0:03:29her great-grandfather would have had.

0:03:29 > 0:03:31And you're going to do the middle one.

0:03:31 > 0:03:32- That's right.- The main course.

0:03:32 > 0:03:37That's right. I'm going to do roast saddle of Welsh lamb with braised shoulder.

0:03:37 > 0:03:40So, two cuts of lamb with Isle of Wight asparagus,

0:03:40 > 0:03:43Jersey Royal potatoes... It sounds great. What do you do first?

0:03:43 > 0:03:48OK. So, the first thing I have in my pan here is some chopped up celery,

0:03:48 > 0:03:52onions, carrot, and a little sneaky star anise.

0:03:52 > 0:03:56- Star anise.- So, I'm going to put a little bit more oil in here

0:03:56 > 0:03:59and then I'm going to add my lamb shoulder.

0:03:59 > 0:04:01And I think what I like so much about this dish

0:04:01 > 0:04:04is that it's not just focusing on the prime cut,

0:04:04 > 0:04:07it's also giving you the kind of secondary cuts as well.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10Do you get more flavour out of the shoulder of lamb than you would...?

0:04:10 > 0:04:13Ah, absolutely. Absolutely. There's a gelatine that's inside

0:04:13 > 0:04:16your lamb shoulder that, when you cook that slowly,

0:04:16 > 0:04:17you draw that out

0:04:17 > 0:04:20and you get a much better consistency out of your sauce.

0:04:20 > 0:04:25So I'm going to add tomato paste in here as well.

0:04:25 > 0:04:29I'm going to give my rosemary a chop while I let that kind of caramelise up a little bit.

0:04:29 > 0:04:31- So, rosemary and lamb.- Yeah.

0:04:31 > 0:04:35I think everybody in the universe knows that these two go very well together.

0:04:35 > 0:04:37Why is that, do you think?

0:04:37 > 0:04:40I think it's because where the lambs would be jumping around...

0:04:40 > 0:04:43And having the craic, there's the...

0:04:43 > 0:04:44Rosemary is growing nearby.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47And that they snack on the same herb that is obviously going to taste

0:04:47 > 0:04:48very well with the meat.

0:04:48 > 0:04:49This is amazing, isn't it,

0:04:49 > 0:04:51because this is an absolute celebration,

0:04:51 > 0:04:55- as a lot of these royal meals are, of Britishness?- Yes.

0:04:55 > 0:04:57You know, Welsh Cambrian Mountain lamb,

0:04:57 > 0:05:02marinated Uist island salmon with Lyme Bay crab.

0:05:02 > 0:05:04It's all...

0:05:04 > 0:05:05It's all a celebration of British,

0:05:05 > 0:05:08whereas two, three generations ago, we were all pretending to be French!

0:05:08 > 0:05:12Absolutely. Like, when I first was learning to be a cook,

0:05:12 > 0:05:15everything was, you know, special because it was French.

0:05:15 > 0:05:19Where now, I think we kind of look around what we have and it's just as

0:05:19 > 0:05:20good as what the French have, you know?

0:05:20 > 0:05:22So, I'm going to add my white wine in now...

0:05:22 > 0:05:23Yeah.

0:05:25 > 0:05:28And there's a lovely kind of acidity that you get from white wine.

0:05:28 > 0:05:30And now we're going to put in our stock.

0:05:32 > 0:05:36- And last but certainly not least... - Your rosemary.

0:05:36 > 0:05:39Rosemary. So, I'm going to pop a lid on this...

0:05:39 > 0:05:44- Mm-hm.- ..and we'd cook that for about maybe two hours.

0:05:44 > 0:05:48Let that kind of simmer away, like a light bubble, not a heavy boil.

0:05:48 > 0:05:51And it should look like this.

0:05:52 > 0:05:55Oh-ho-ho! Look at the steam coming out.

0:05:55 > 0:05:57Yeah. Terrific.

0:05:57 > 0:05:59I'll get out of your way.

0:05:59 > 0:06:03Our next stage is searing off our saddle of lamb.

0:06:03 > 0:06:06So, this is the prime cut, OK?

0:06:06 > 0:06:09If you go to your butcher and you speak to him nicely...

0:06:10 > 0:06:13- He'll do this.- He'll rack it up... - Truss it.- ..for you just nice, yeah.

0:06:13 > 0:06:15So, I'm going to oil it and season it.

0:06:15 > 0:06:20So, what's happening here is you've got the shoulder for the flavour...

0:06:20 > 0:06:22- Yes.- And you've got this for the texture?

0:06:22 > 0:06:24Yeah. Exactly.

0:06:24 > 0:06:27You know, Everybody likes a kind of little bit of rare meat with...

0:06:27 > 0:06:29You know, if you associate lamb and beef,

0:06:29 > 0:06:32you think of that lovely kind of medium-rare kind of cuisson.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35But the flavour that you get from the braised shoulder, it's like,

0:06:35 > 0:06:37we're greedy, we want both.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39So I'm going to put a little bit of oil in my pan.

0:06:39 > 0:06:42- OK.- The key is when you're cooking is control.

0:06:42 > 0:06:44Controlling your heat. You need a lovely, smoking hot pan.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47So hot that when I'm at home, my dad does have a fire extinguisher

0:06:47 > 0:06:48in the background, ready to go.

0:06:48 > 0:06:49Oh, the sizzle!

0:06:52 > 0:06:54So, you're trying to sear it. Why?

0:06:54 > 0:06:58You want to get a lovely caramelised flavour off this and

0:06:58 > 0:07:01particularly, I think lamb fat has got a very,

0:07:01 > 0:07:04very good flavour when you get a good brown kind of colour on it.

0:07:04 > 0:07:05Erm..

0:07:05 > 0:07:09And yeah, it's just going to enhance the whole flavour of the meat on

0:07:09 > 0:07:12the inside. So, we get a lovely golden brown colour,

0:07:12 > 0:07:13evenly, all around.

0:07:13 > 0:07:15Takes roughly about maybe about five, ten minutes.

0:07:15 > 0:07:17A little bit of patience.

0:07:17 > 0:07:19And then you're going to pop it into the oven...

0:07:19 > 0:07:20Mm-hm.

0:07:20 > 0:07:22- ..for me, Michael.- Mm-hm.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25190 degrees, for about 20 minutes or so.

0:07:25 > 0:07:28And when you go to the oven, will you grab one there?

0:07:28 > 0:07:29I've already got it resting.

0:07:29 > 0:07:31OK. I'll be back in two ticks.

0:07:33 > 0:07:36Look at this little beauty.

0:07:36 > 0:07:37Lovely.

0:07:37 > 0:07:40So, this lamb has been resting for about ten minutes.

0:07:40 > 0:07:43It's really important that when you cook a piece of meat, that roughly

0:07:43 > 0:07:45about half the length of time it takes to cook, you rest it.

0:07:45 > 0:07:49That's what us amateur eaters never do. Because we're too greedy.

0:07:49 > 0:07:50- No patience.- Mm-hm.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53OK, so, I think it's time to carve.

0:07:53 > 0:07:55What is...?

0:07:55 > 0:07:56Oh, look at that!

0:07:56 > 0:07:58- I love it.- Be-autiful.

0:07:58 > 0:08:00Pink in the middle. And a bit of juice.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04As you're cutting it, you can see it... Oh, yes.

0:08:04 > 0:08:08Speaking of juice, maybe we might put a little bit of gravy with this.

0:08:08 > 0:08:09Mm-hm.

0:08:09 > 0:08:14What we serve this with is some beautiful British asparagus...

0:08:14 > 0:08:16From the Isle of Wight, I think, on the original menu.

0:08:16 > 0:08:20That's it. And we have our lovely braised shoulder.

0:08:20 > 0:08:22It is two dishes in one, isn't it?

0:08:22 > 0:08:25It is. It is. And I think it is really important

0:08:25 > 0:08:29to kind of note that the idea of using the shoulder means

0:08:29 > 0:08:32that more people get to eat the saddle,

0:08:32 > 0:08:36because obviously, little lambs, they're not so big to share around.

0:08:36 > 0:08:39- Oh, yeah.- Fabulous. And just one little star anise.

0:08:39 > 0:08:40This one little fella...

0:08:40 > 0:08:42- Can really flavour it. - Yeah.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45But it's the rosemary that's so lovely, isn't it?

0:08:45 > 0:08:46Mm, mm.

0:08:46 > 0:08:49Yeah. Ohh!

0:08:49 > 0:08:51- OK.- I love the saddle.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54Look at that. The lovely, succulent fat around it.

0:08:54 > 0:08:57And then the last thing that we're just going to add

0:08:57 > 0:08:58is a little bit of sauce.

0:08:58 > 0:09:00So, in here I've infused

0:09:00 > 0:09:03a bit of mint in with reduced-down lamb stock...

0:09:03 > 0:09:05You can't have lamb without mint.

0:09:05 > 0:09:07And there's a little knob of butter in here as well.

0:09:07 > 0:09:09Yeah, yeah. But not too rich.

0:09:09 > 0:09:10Not too rich. But...

0:09:12 > 0:09:14..enough so that you do feel this is a special meal.

0:09:14 > 0:09:16Yeah.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20And that's it. Finish it with a little bit of gravy.

0:09:20 > 0:09:21Just around.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23There you go.

0:09:23 > 0:09:28- Yeah.- That's your braised shoulder of lamb and rolled saddle.

0:09:29 > 0:09:32Beautiful. There's your knife and fork.

0:09:32 > 0:09:34Which piece are you going to go for first?

0:09:34 > 0:09:35Oh, the top one.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37- OK, you go.- Here we go.

0:09:37 > 0:09:43I'm going to try the saddle first, because that does look great.

0:09:43 > 0:09:44With a bit of the asparagus.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47I'm going to have the top end of the asparagus.

0:09:47 > 0:09:49- Come on, Michael!- All right, all right, all right.

0:09:49 > 0:09:51- Come on.- All right. Ooh!

0:09:51 > 0:09:54Get in there for the braised shoulder because that's what I want.

0:09:54 > 0:09:56Mm!

0:09:56 > 0:09:57Mm!

0:09:57 > 0:09:59That's lovely. It's so succulent...

0:10:00 > 0:10:02..and the fat around it...

0:10:02 > 0:10:03I love lamb actually.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05Yeah, but it's fantastic lamb.

0:10:05 > 0:10:07- Now the braised bit, this is where the flavour is.- Mm!

0:10:07 > 0:10:09Oh!

0:10:11 > 0:10:13Oh, I see what you mean.

0:10:13 > 0:10:14The mint is lovely in it.

0:10:14 > 0:10:15Mm, yeah.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20And what's great about it, I think, is that it's

0:10:20 > 0:10:25a completely, totally British celebration in food

0:10:25 > 0:10:28of our longest-reigning monarch.

0:10:28 > 0:10:29Fantastic.

0:10:30 > 0:10:35A celebration of lamb, and a worthy way to celebrate a Diamond Jubilee.

0:10:35 > 0:10:37The original dish was created for the Queen

0:10:37 > 0:10:40by one of the Royal family's favourite chefs.

0:10:44 > 0:10:46Michelin-starred Anton Mosimann

0:10:46 > 0:10:49has cooked for four generations of royals.

0:10:49 > 0:10:52It all started when the Queen Mother enjoyed his food

0:10:52 > 0:10:53at London's Dorchester Hotel.

0:10:55 > 0:10:59I came to the Dorchester in 1975.

0:10:59 > 0:11:00It was one of THE best hotels.

0:11:00 > 0:11:04I mean, just everybody who had a name, a reputation,

0:11:04 > 0:11:06came in and out of the Dorchester.

0:11:06 > 0:11:09It was like a film sometimes.

0:11:09 > 0:11:13I was so excited to meet the Royal family and cook for them.

0:11:13 > 0:11:15Princess Margaret, she came often,

0:11:15 > 0:11:18and Her Majesty the Queen came for banquets and of course,

0:11:18 > 0:11:19the Queen Mother.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22It was just an incredible experience for me.

0:11:22 > 0:11:24Incredible experience.

0:11:24 > 0:11:28Anton was invited to cook at not one but two grand events

0:11:28 > 0:11:31to celebrate the Queen's Diamond Jubilee.

0:11:31 > 0:11:34As well as serving lamb, he prepared fish courses.

0:11:35 > 0:11:40My first dish today is a steamed sea bass, with a sauce vierge.

0:11:40 > 0:11:43This fish I cooked on different occasions,

0:11:43 > 0:11:45including for the Royal family,

0:11:45 > 0:11:48and has been very much appreciated and well received.

0:11:50 > 0:11:51A bit of salt.

0:11:53 > 0:11:55Pepper.

0:11:55 > 0:11:59I love steaming because what you put in, that's what you get out.

0:12:01 > 0:12:02A few leaves of basil.

0:12:04 > 0:12:06The lid.

0:12:06 > 0:12:07And very quickly to cook.

0:12:09 > 0:12:11It's almost cooked.

0:12:11 > 0:12:12It's less than two minutes

0:12:12 > 0:12:15and this wonderful, beautiful fish is actually cooked.

0:12:18 > 0:12:23I make my sauce vierge, which is a reduction of sherry vinegar,

0:12:23 > 0:12:26a few shallots, finely chopped.

0:12:26 > 0:12:29Add a bit of honey, just as a contrast.

0:12:30 > 0:12:34And once it's cooked down, then it's olive oil

0:12:34 > 0:12:35and spring onions,

0:12:35 > 0:12:40I use a bit of chives and of course tomatoes.

0:12:40 > 0:12:42I have some spinach here,

0:12:42 > 0:12:46with broccoli and a bit of colour, a few carrots.

0:12:47 > 0:12:50Fish and spinach, broccoli, go very well together.

0:12:52 > 0:12:53A few new potatoes.

0:13:01 > 0:13:02And the dressing.

0:13:08 > 0:13:12Out of the steam, on the plate and off it goes.

0:13:12 > 0:13:17At the Jubilee Lunch at Westminster Hall, it was food like this.

0:13:17 > 0:13:19We served almost 1,000 people.

0:13:21 > 0:13:23Some of Anton's dishes have become

0:13:23 > 0:13:26long-standing favourites with the Windsors,

0:13:26 > 0:13:28passing from Queen Mother to daughter.

0:13:28 > 0:13:31Recipes such as cheese and spinach souffle.

0:13:31 > 0:13:35Her Majesty the Queen Mother, she loved her food,

0:13:35 > 0:13:37was really into her food.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40And when she came to the Dorchester for lunch, very often...

0:13:41 > 0:13:42..she enjoyed it so much

0:13:42 > 0:13:44and she went back to Clarence House

0:13:44 > 0:13:47and asked her chef to write to me for the recipes.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53And one of the dishes I remember was the cheese and spinach souffle.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57He starts with a traditional roux sauce, made from butter,

0:13:57 > 0:13:59flour and cold milk.

0:14:02 > 0:14:04A bit of nutmeg.

0:14:06 > 0:14:07Some cheese.

0:14:09 > 0:14:10Mix very carefully.

0:14:13 > 0:14:15Smells already delicious.

0:14:20 > 0:14:22Now to put my spinach...

0:14:23 > 0:14:27..blanched first of all, then finely chopped

0:14:27 > 0:14:30and mix that together with the cheese mixture.

0:14:33 > 0:14:35Mm! Delicious.

0:14:37 > 0:14:41Then, Anton cools the mix and adds egg yolks.

0:14:44 > 0:14:49Now I'm going to fold the egg whites into the mix.

0:14:49 > 0:14:52Folding very gentle because I want to keep the air bubbles

0:14:52 > 0:14:55in the egg whites. That makes the souffle rising.

0:14:59 > 0:15:04The mix goes into individual moulds and into the oven for eight minutes.

0:15:11 > 0:15:12Smell great.

0:15:15 > 0:15:19Anton serves it with a fromage frais, yoghurt and chive sauce.

0:15:23 > 0:15:24So light, beautiful.

0:15:26 > 0:15:27So, here we are.

0:15:29 > 0:15:31But during the Jubilee year,

0:15:31 > 0:15:35I had the pleasure of cooking this dish on one or two occasions.

0:15:35 > 0:15:39It's light, nice sauce and people loved it.

0:15:42 > 0:15:46Royal jubilees are few and far between and when they happen,

0:15:46 > 0:15:48they are an excuse for a great celebration.

0:15:48 > 0:15:50I've got the menu card for the banquet

0:15:50 > 0:15:54for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee at Buckingham Palace. Look at it!

0:15:54 > 0:15:55- They're all in French, of course. - Yeah.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58- Now, you are going to do one of these dishes?- I am.

0:15:58 > 0:15:59Which one are you going to do?

0:15:59 > 0:16:01Le Poulet a la Financiere.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03Chicken Financiere.

0:16:03 > 0:16:05Is that banker's chicken, or...?

0:16:05 > 0:16:07No, it's actually a chicken stew.

0:16:07 > 0:16:08A chicken stew!

0:16:08 > 0:16:10You know, the French. They want a fancy name for things.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13It is essentially a very delicious chicken stew.

0:16:13 > 0:16:16So, I'm good start of this recipe in here

0:16:16 > 0:16:19with butter, onion, and carrots,

0:16:19 > 0:16:22and they are just sweating down nicely on a good high heat.

0:16:22 > 0:16:24I'm then going to add my mushrooms.

0:16:24 > 0:16:27That will take a couple of minutes to kind of sweat down

0:16:27 > 0:16:29on a high heat.

0:16:29 > 0:16:31A lot of kind of juice and water is going to come out of mushrooms,

0:16:31 > 0:16:35so you need a bit of patience and a bit of time with that.

0:16:35 > 0:16:37So, while that's cooking away,

0:16:37 > 0:16:42I'm going to give the chicken heart and the livers a bit of a chop.

0:16:42 > 0:16:44Now, they loved offal, didn't they?

0:16:44 > 0:16:46Yeah, and I love offal. I don't understand...

0:16:46 > 0:16:48What is it in the recent generations,

0:16:48 > 0:16:50I suppose my generation and right down to yours,

0:16:50 > 0:16:53that have seemed to have gone off things like liver and heart.

0:16:53 > 0:16:55I remember having heart as a kid.

0:16:55 > 0:16:56- I never get it now. - I loved it.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59Lamb's heart - my mum always prepared lamb's heart as a kid

0:16:59 > 0:17:00and when I lived in Paris,

0:17:00 > 0:17:02I remember calling my mother up saying,

0:17:02 > 0:17:05what do you do with the lamb's heart? How can I make it?

0:17:05 > 0:17:08You'd never just see it in the supermarket.

0:17:08 > 0:17:12But from a chef's point of view, what does offal in a dish like this

0:17:12 > 0:17:14- lend to a stew? - Depth of flavour.

0:17:14 > 0:17:17I mean, like, you look how small I'm chopping this up, like.

0:17:17 > 0:17:20It's going to give a more complex, interesting notes

0:17:20 > 0:17:22that are going to just be through your stew.

0:17:22 > 0:17:25So, you just give them a good little chop up together there.

0:17:25 > 0:17:29- Yeah.- Now, I'm going to pop them back on the plate.

0:17:29 > 0:17:30Lovely, rich colour, aren't they?

0:17:30 > 0:17:33Yeah, yeah. These are sweating down kind of nicely now.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35They're coming along. I'm going to put a little bit of flour in there.

0:17:37 > 0:17:40It's funny, thinking yourself back to that day

0:17:40 > 0:17:43and Queen Victoria on the throne for 50 years.

0:17:43 > 0:17:46She started, you know, that day having her breakfast

0:17:46 > 0:17:47as a kind of picnic...

0:17:47 > 0:17:50Completely different meal, picnic under the trees at Frogmore...

0:17:50 > 0:17:54- I know.- ..where her husband, Prince Albert, was buried.

0:17:54 > 0:17:55- So romantic.- Near his grave.

0:17:55 > 0:17:57I mean, it does, it breaks my heart.

0:17:57 > 0:18:00- You want to believe that they were just madly in love.- Well, yeah.

0:18:00 > 0:18:03And she seems to really have, you know, been heartbroken,

0:18:03 > 0:18:05once he passed away.

0:18:05 > 0:18:06Gosh, the smell is...

0:18:06 > 0:18:09The wine is reducing down. Yes, it is.

0:18:09 > 0:18:13And, now I'm going to add the chicken stock to it.

0:18:13 > 0:18:14Yeah.

0:18:14 > 0:18:17Oh, it's already looking rather good, isn't it?

0:18:17 > 0:18:19All sorts of delights going into it now.

0:18:19 > 0:18:23Next is going to be.. the olives.

0:18:23 > 0:18:26- Ah, now, olives... - I know. Just a little twist.

0:18:26 > 0:18:27That's a little unusual, isn't it?

0:18:27 > 0:18:28Yeah. Quite Mediterranean.

0:18:28 > 0:18:32And then I'm going to put in the chicken heart and liver.

0:18:32 > 0:18:39Now, I've already pre-seared the chicken legs and the chicken thighs

0:18:39 > 0:18:42and breasts. I rolled them in a little bit of flour as well.

0:18:42 > 0:18:44Again, as that cooks, that flour will help

0:18:44 > 0:18:45kind of thicken up the sauce a bit more.

0:18:45 > 0:18:47- So I'm going to pop them in now. - OK.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50Yeah, so you cook them for about a half an hour with the lid off.

0:18:50 > 0:18:53Once you're ready with your dumplings, you roll them.

0:18:53 > 0:18:56We're going to pop them in and cook them for another further 20 minutes.

0:18:56 > 0:18:57So you've got dumplings coming in now.

0:18:57 > 0:18:59I've got dumplings to make now. And I love dumplings.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01No stew is complete without dumplings.

0:19:01 > 0:19:05Exactly. So, in here, these are slightly fancy dumplings

0:19:05 > 0:19:09because they have some freshly chopped tarragon in them.

0:19:09 > 0:19:12Also, I'm going to add one egg and some suet.

0:19:12 > 0:19:16So, first of all, give it a little bit of a stir.

0:19:16 > 0:19:21Add the suet. So, your egg is going to go into the centre there.

0:19:21 > 0:19:24I added a pinch of salt into that as well.

0:19:24 > 0:19:26Just give it a bit of a mix.

0:19:28 > 0:19:30Right, so, I've got to get my hands stuck in here now.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32- Yeah. - Now, if it is...

0:19:32 > 0:19:35Sometimes the mix might just be a little bit dry.

0:19:35 > 0:19:38You might need to add a small drop of water to it.

0:19:38 > 0:19:40Just like a little small spoon of it,

0:19:40 > 0:19:42just to make sure it all comes together.

0:19:42 > 0:19:45Now, the egg in this makes it much richer...

0:19:45 > 0:19:48- Yeah.- And also helps it kind of stay together.

0:19:49 > 0:19:51You don't want your dumpling dissolving, do you?

0:19:51 > 0:19:56No, and this will be cooked inside the stew for 20 minutes.

0:19:56 > 0:19:58OK. Right, I think we're ready to go now.

0:19:58 > 0:19:59- That is well kneaded.- Yeah.

0:19:59 > 0:20:04And then all we're going to do is to shape them into nice kind of little dumplings.

0:20:04 > 0:20:06Give them a little bit of a roll.

0:20:08 > 0:20:11I can just imagine everybody sitting there in Buckingham Palace.

0:20:11 > 0:20:15Extraordinary. Do you know, there were 50 kings and princes

0:20:15 > 0:20:18in this banquet, from all over Europe?

0:20:18 > 0:20:21Imagine cooking for royalty on that scale.

0:20:21 > 0:20:23Like, the pressure must be immense.

0:20:23 > 0:20:25So, now you're going to pop your dumplings in.

0:20:25 > 0:20:28After your chicken has been cooking for about 30 minutes,

0:20:28 > 0:20:30this is when you pop the dumplings in

0:20:30 > 0:20:34and you must put the lid on to cook them. Another further 20 minutes.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37And now our final ingredient, cockscomb.

0:20:37 > 0:20:38MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:20:38 > 0:20:40- What, the bit off its head?- Yeah. - Aren't they normally red?- Yes.

0:20:40 > 0:20:41Well, these have been cooked.

0:20:41 > 0:20:44I've cooked these were two hours. Because they need a long braising.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47A little bit like pigs' ears or something like that.

0:20:47 > 0:20:48I'm not sure about this.

0:20:48 > 0:20:50Look, they're kind of rubbery.

0:20:50 > 0:20:52What do you think they're going to taste like?

0:20:52 > 0:20:54I don't think they're going to taste of much.

0:20:54 > 0:20:56I think the reason they probably put them into stews was to prove that

0:20:56 > 0:20:58they actually came from the cockerel.

0:20:58 > 0:21:00- And that sense of a stew.- Mm.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03We've got all the chicken in there,

0:21:03 > 0:21:06including its...cockscomb. I'm not sure. There you go.

0:21:08 > 0:21:10OK.

0:21:10 > 0:21:11It's decoration, I think, isn't it?

0:21:11 > 0:21:15There's something rather funny about you know, the crown, the cockscomb,

0:21:15 > 0:21:21from the chicken, in front of 50 kings and princes at this banquet.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23Can you think of that? All those royal houses,

0:21:23 > 0:21:26all eating cockscombs!

0:21:26 > 0:21:30All I can think about are actually the poor chefs in the kitchen cooking for those people.

0:21:30 > 0:21:31- Yeah.- The pressure must have been immense.

0:21:31 > 0:21:34Yeah. Half the royalty of Europe. More than half the royalty of Europe,

0:21:34 > 0:21:37- and most of them are relatives, of course.- Yeah.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39It's rather amusing. In her diary afterwards, she said,

0:21:39 > 0:21:42"The King of Denmark took me in and Willie of Greece

0:21:42 > 0:21:43"sat on my other side.

0:21:43 > 0:21:45"The princes were all in uniform

0:21:45 > 0:21:48"and the princesses were all beautifully dressed.

0:21:48 > 0:21:52"Afterwards, we went into the ballroom, where my band played."

0:21:52 > 0:21:56- That sounds like some party. - Yeah, come on, what did they eat?

0:21:56 > 0:21:58Let's have a try. Oh, yes.

0:21:59 > 0:22:01Still not sure about those cockscombs.

0:22:01 > 0:22:03I haven't cooked this for no reason at all.

0:22:03 > 0:22:05Oh, I thought you could taste them.

0:22:05 > 0:22:07Let me try to see if I can get a little bit of...

0:22:07 > 0:22:09Oh, look at the juice in that.

0:22:09 > 0:22:12I know, but it's the dumplings that I'm REALLY interested in.

0:22:12 > 0:22:16- Oh, you and your dumplings. - Yeah. I know. Oops!

0:22:16 > 0:22:18What about the chicken? Come on, come on.

0:22:18 > 0:22:20Mm, yeah. A piece of chicken in there...

0:22:21 > 0:22:24..and Michael's three portions of cockscombs.

0:22:24 > 0:22:25MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:22:25 > 0:22:27No, no, you don't! No, you don't.

0:22:27 > 0:22:29OK, I'll be happy with one little bite.

0:22:29 > 0:22:31OK.

0:22:31 > 0:22:33There we go.

0:22:33 > 0:22:34All right.

0:22:35 > 0:22:36Oh!

0:22:40 > 0:22:42Is it...?

0:22:42 > 0:22:45No, you don't like it!

0:22:47 > 0:22:50Hmm. It tastes all right but it's one of those kind of

0:22:50 > 0:22:53slippery type of things, you know?

0:22:53 > 0:22:55What do you think?

0:22:55 > 0:22:58I mean, it's going to be nothing on the dumpling, actually.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01We're not too convinced about the cockscomb.

0:23:01 > 0:23:03I don't think it adds much to the flavour.

0:23:03 > 0:23:04But the rest...

0:23:06 > 0:23:09You can really get the suet off the dumpling.

0:23:09 > 0:23:10It's so delicious.

0:23:10 > 0:23:14The tarragon in the dumpling... Mm!

0:23:14 > 0:23:16Lovely olives.

0:23:16 > 0:23:19I can do without the cockscomb, but the rest...

0:23:19 > 0:23:24Chicken Financiere, banker's chicken, I'm going to call it.

0:23:24 > 0:23:26- Well, it's a rich dish, isn't it? - Mm.

0:23:26 > 0:23:27For a Golden Jubilee.

0:23:29 > 0:23:31Lovely.

0:23:31 > 0:23:35'A hearty dish as well for a long- living and long-reigning queen.'

0:23:37 > 0:23:40Celebrating a jubilee is often a chance

0:23:40 > 0:23:42to indulge in a bit of nostalgia

0:23:42 > 0:23:46and what better dish to serve than trifle?

0:23:46 > 0:23:49It's got a long tradition in our national cuisine.

0:23:54 > 0:23:58At his Padstow home in Cornwall, chef Paul Ainsworth has been

0:23:58 > 0:24:01inspired by the jubilee spirit to get creative with a pudding

0:24:01 > 0:24:05that's reigned supreme in Britain for generations.

0:24:06 > 0:24:09For me, when you're celebrating, street party, jubilee,

0:24:09 > 0:24:13great royal occasion, the go-to dish is the trifle.

0:24:13 > 0:24:15I love trifle and in my trifle,

0:24:15 > 0:24:18I'm going to have some beautiful British strawberries,

0:24:18 > 0:24:20some beautiful British raspberries.

0:24:20 > 0:24:24For our jelly, we're going to use Cornish sparkling wine.

0:24:24 > 0:24:28We're going to add the whole bottle to the pan

0:24:28 > 0:24:30and we're going to bring it...

0:24:30 > 0:24:31CORK POPS

0:24:31 > 0:24:33..to the boil.

0:24:33 > 0:24:36I've got this wonderful sparkling wine with just some nice perfume

0:24:36 > 0:24:38with the thyme, little bit of vanilla,

0:24:38 > 0:24:39some star anise and some sugar.

0:24:39 > 0:24:42So here we are - the lovely pile of strawberries,

0:24:42 > 0:24:44just going to pop those into the sparkling wine.

0:24:44 > 0:24:47Now, I'm going to add my raspberries in there like that -

0:24:47 > 0:24:49the soft fruits just lightly poaching.

0:24:49 > 0:24:53The heat's off now. Very gently, pass off that fruit.

0:24:55 > 0:24:58Let your fruit just rest nicely like that.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01And what we want to do, we want to bring that back up to a simmer,

0:25:01 > 0:25:04just very gently, drop our gelatine and as soon as it goes in there,

0:25:04 > 0:25:07pull it off the heat and just keep stirring

0:25:07 > 0:25:10until you see it just all dissolved. And there you have it.

0:25:10 > 0:25:13You've just made a beautiful sparkling wine jelly.

0:25:14 > 0:25:15Now is the exciting part.

0:25:15 > 0:25:18We're going to build our trifle palace.

0:25:18 > 0:25:21So, just take your bowl, I've had it on good authority

0:25:21 > 0:25:22that in the royal household,

0:25:22 > 0:25:25they like it in individual sundae glasses.

0:25:25 > 0:25:27But I think this just makes a great centrepiece,

0:25:27 > 0:25:30in the middle of the table, everyone getting stuck in.

0:25:30 > 0:25:34So, just very gently, we're going to spoon our fruit in.

0:25:34 > 0:25:37Nice and clean, so everyone can see those layers.

0:25:37 > 0:25:41Now, I'm going to get my twist on this lovely royal recipe -

0:25:41 > 0:25:42Cornish saffron cake.

0:25:42 > 0:25:46The saffron works amazing with that soft, poached fruit.

0:25:46 > 0:25:49Look at that yellow that's coming from the saffron.

0:25:49 > 0:25:50It's an amazing alternative

0:25:50 > 0:25:54to just those ordinary, boring sponge fingers.

0:25:54 > 0:25:55Right, now, we're going to get the jelly.

0:25:55 > 0:25:59Still liquid, it will start to set once it goes into the fridge.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01Coming up just to the top of the level of the cake

0:26:01 > 0:26:04and the beautiful soft fruit.

0:26:04 > 0:26:07The trifle then sets in the fridge for two to three hours

0:26:07 > 0:26:12while Paul makes a custard, using milk, vanilla and custard powder.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14Once cooled, he adds it to the trifle.

0:26:14 > 0:26:17Look at that. Set beautifully.

0:26:17 > 0:26:20And what you want is about an inch thick.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23Lovely. It just looks delicious already.

0:26:23 > 0:26:27This is why I love using dishes like this as a centrepiece.

0:26:27 > 0:26:29While the trifle goes back in the fridge,

0:26:29 > 0:26:33Paul whips up some double cream with vanilla and icing sugar

0:26:33 > 0:26:34to make the top layer.

0:26:34 > 0:26:36Spooning it on.

0:26:36 > 0:26:38Look at that.

0:26:38 > 0:26:40Lovely. That is proper.

0:26:40 > 0:26:42Palace of Trifle.

0:26:42 > 0:26:45Going to pop out into the fridge and we're going to make some honeycomb.

0:26:45 > 0:26:48And we're just going to boil glucose, sugar,

0:26:48 > 0:26:50and honey on the stove. Now you'll hear the sound of the bubbles.

0:26:50 > 0:26:52They're just clicking, clicking, clicking.

0:26:52 > 0:26:55As the mixture starts to thicken, the bubbles will start to slow down

0:26:55 > 0:26:58and you'll know that you're getting close.

0:26:58 > 0:27:00In with your bicarb.

0:27:00 > 0:27:02Just whisk in that bicarb and let it come up and let it come up.

0:27:02 > 0:27:04And see the honeycomb coming up?

0:27:04 > 0:27:06Fantastic. Let it rise, let it rise.

0:27:06 > 0:27:07Now, pour onto your sheet.

0:27:07 > 0:27:09And THAT is honeycomb.

0:27:11 > 0:27:14Once the honeycomb has cooled and hardened,

0:27:14 > 0:27:17Paul breaks it up and then it's time to decorate.

0:27:18 > 0:27:22Get the little bits, sprinkle them over.

0:27:22 > 0:27:24So you're covering all of that cream.

0:27:24 > 0:27:26Get it all in there.

0:27:26 > 0:27:29Now, if you squint, doesn't that look like the jewels in the crown?

0:27:29 > 0:27:32In fact, that IS the crown.

0:27:32 > 0:27:35Look at that. One more little indulgent treat.

0:27:35 > 0:27:40Take your favourite chocolate bar and just peel it over the top.

0:27:44 > 0:27:46A beautiful British dessert.

0:27:47 > 0:27:49Ma'am, I hope you approve.

0:27:54 > 0:27:58Katie Nicholl here has been a royal correspondent for a decade or more,

0:27:58 > 0:28:00covering several generations of the Royal family

0:28:00 > 0:28:02and what they've been up to.

0:28:02 > 0:28:05How significant is a Jubilee, a diamond jubilee?

0:28:05 > 0:28:08Well, there have only been two monarchs who have ever celebrated

0:28:08 > 0:28:11a Diamond Jubilee. Of course, our monarch, and Queen Victoria.

0:28:11 > 0:28:15So, very rare, very special occasions, and, I mean,

0:28:15 > 0:28:18don't really have to think that far back to 2012,

0:28:18 > 0:28:20but you have to think a long way back to 1897

0:28:20 > 0:28:22when it was a very different type of celebration.

0:28:22 > 0:28:26Queen Victoria made sure that everyone in the streets,

0:28:26 > 0:28:28the very poorest, were still able to celebrate

0:28:28 > 0:28:29and she did that by serving them soup or

0:28:29 > 0:28:32having her courtiers serving them soup in the streets.

0:28:32 > 0:28:34They ate jellied eels and whelks.

0:28:34 > 0:28:36Well, we were doing something very different in 2012

0:28:36 > 0:28:38but it was that sense bringing the community together

0:28:38 > 0:28:40to celebrate the Jubilee.

0:28:40 > 0:28:43We were having soggy sandwiches, I seem to remember.

0:28:43 > 0:28:46Well, the Queen wasn't having soggy sandwiches, I'm sure.

0:28:46 > 0:28:50When you are contrasting that Diamond Jubilee for Victoria in 1897

0:28:50 > 0:28:53and the one we've only recently had,

0:28:53 > 0:28:56what does it tell us about ourselves,

0:28:56 > 0:28:58from what we ate and how the whole thing was staged?

0:28:58 > 0:29:00Just how much tastes have changed.

0:29:00 > 0:29:03I think if you took a peek inside that very luxury jubilee hamper that

0:29:03 > 0:29:07those lucky enough to attend the garden party at Buckingham Palace

0:29:07 > 0:29:11enjoyed, which, I have to say, was all taste-tested by the Queen,

0:29:11 > 0:29:14I mean you had little pots of beautifully prepared crab

0:29:14 > 0:29:17and smoked salmon and cucumber sandwiches and

0:29:17 > 0:29:20beautiful products from the Royal Estates...

0:29:20 > 0:29:23I mean, it was a very, very special hamper.

0:29:23 > 0:29:26But I'm sure in 1897 those bowls of soup were much appreciated by

0:29:26 > 0:29:28the people lucky enough to have them as well.

0:29:28 > 0:29:33But I can definitely say that eels and whelks didn't feature in the 2012 hamper.

0:29:33 > 0:29:35What about the royals themselves?

0:29:35 > 0:29:39By the standards of Queen Victoria and more so her son, Edward VII,

0:29:39 > 0:29:43the Queen's banquet must have been little more than an afternoon snack.

0:29:43 > 0:29:45Absolutely. I think "modest" is the word.

0:29:45 > 0:29:49And I think that really does sum up the Queen's taste when it comes to

0:29:49 > 0:29:51royal recipes and all things culinary.

0:29:51 > 0:29:53She likes very traditional fare.

0:29:53 > 0:29:54She likes very simple food.

0:29:54 > 0:29:56And she's very ahead of her time, really,

0:29:56 > 0:29:59because we're only all starting to eat organic, or have been in the last few years.

0:29:59 > 0:30:01But the Queen's been doing that for ever.

0:30:01 > 0:30:04If she can have her lamb from the Sandringham Estate

0:30:04 > 0:30:06or the Castle of May, that's where she'll have it from.

0:30:06 > 0:30:09Nonetheless, on each occasion, a party to bring the country together.

0:30:09 > 0:30:11Oh, absolutely. It's a moment for unity,

0:30:11 > 0:30:15a time for celebration and for great festivities because, let's face it,

0:30:15 > 0:30:17not many people get to enjoy a Diamond Jubilee.

0:30:19 > 0:30:23The Diamond Jubilee certainly brought people out onto the streets

0:30:23 > 0:30:25to celebrate in that uniquely British way.

0:30:31 > 0:30:33The nation can't resist a street party.

0:30:33 > 0:30:36In 1977, for the Queen's Silver Jubilee,

0:30:36 > 0:30:41it was all about fancy dress, flag-waving, sandwiches, and squash.

0:30:44 > 0:30:46Historian Dr Polly Russell is in Windsor,

0:30:46 > 0:30:50a royal town with a strong tradition of celebrating jubilees.

0:30:51 > 0:30:53To find out more about how fashions have changed,

0:30:53 > 0:30:57she's heading to a street party hotspot.

0:30:57 > 0:30:58I thought it was the perfect place

0:30:58 > 0:31:02to come and meet some real street party devotees.

0:31:05 > 0:31:08- Hello.- Hello. - Oh, this looks nice.

0:31:08 > 0:31:10These Royal Windsor residents

0:31:10 > 0:31:13haven't missed any of the Queen's jubilees.

0:31:13 > 0:31:17Celebrating her Silver in 1977,

0:31:17 > 0:31:19her Golden in 2002,

0:31:19 > 0:31:22and then the Diamond in 2012.

0:31:23 > 0:31:27So, here we are in the Alma pub on Springfield Road and I'm really

0:31:27 > 0:31:29thrilled to be able to talk to you about the street parties

0:31:29 > 0:31:31that you've all been involved with.

0:31:31 > 0:31:34The first one I went to was the coronation.

0:31:34 > 0:31:36Which one?

0:31:36 > 0:31:38- Which one?! - LAUGHTER

0:31:38 > 0:31:40You went to Victoria's!

0:31:40 > 0:31:44The patriotic jollity that we recognise as street parties today

0:31:44 > 0:31:48date back to the peace teas for children after the First World War

0:31:48 > 0:31:52And were similar to those held for the Queen's coronation in 1953.

0:31:52 > 0:31:55- It was definitely for children. - Yeah.

0:31:55 > 0:31:58There was a table down the middle of the street for children.

0:31:58 > 0:32:01And the adults served the children.

0:32:01 > 0:32:06The menu was usually sandwiches with fish paste or jam.

0:32:06 > 0:32:08Yes. That's it, yes, quite!

0:32:08 > 0:32:10And then they had blancmange and jelly,

0:32:10 > 0:32:14which was a great treat in 1950-whatever it was.

0:32:14 > 0:32:16Do you remember a feeling of anticipation

0:32:16 > 0:32:18before the street parties?

0:32:18 > 0:32:19Oh, yes, it was exciting.

0:32:19 > 0:32:22Yes, yes, yes, because after the war, I mean, you couldn't get

0:32:22 > 0:32:25butter and you couldn't get very much to eat at all.

0:32:25 > 0:32:31So jelly and blancmange was definitely, er,

0:32:31 > 0:32:33to be looked forward to.

0:32:33 > 0:32:37Two decades on, the enthusiasm for bunting and taking over the streets

0:32:37 > 0:32:41had only grown. And communities everywhere were mucking in.

0:32:41 > 0:32:45So in 1977, do you say that most of the food was cooked from scratch,

0:32:45 > 0:32:47that people were just making it at home?

0:32:47 > 0:32:49Or were they all nipping up?

0:32:49 > 0:32:51Yeah, yeah, mainly made from scratch in '77.

0:32:51 > 0:32:53You didn't have any bought stuff there.

0:32:53 > 0:32:55You made your own pastries.

0:32:55 > 0:32:57In '77, we didn't have the food that we've had today.

0:32:57 > 0:33:00A royal wedding in 2011 and the upcoming Olympics

0:33:00 > 0:33:05saw the enthusiasm for Diamond Jubilee street parties

0:33:05 > 0:33:08reach patriotic fever pitch in 2012.

0:33:08 > 0:33:11Councils in England and Wales received

0:33:11 > 0:33:14almost 9,500 road closure applications.

0:33:14 > 0:33:15The theme was nostalgic,

0:33:15 > 0:33:17with one boozy addition.

0:33:18 > 0:33:21If you go back in time, all the photos you'd see,

0:33:21 > 0:33:23it's either orange squash...

0:33:23 > 0:33:24Orange squash, yeah...

0:33:24 > 0:33:25Or it's tea.

0:33:25 > 0:33:27And of course that has also changed.

0:33:27 > 0:33:30And I think that's quite nice, because people want to celebrate

0:33:30 > 0:33:32and of course, these days, you celebrate

0:33:32 > 0:33:34with champagne or prosecco or whatever.

0:33:34 > 0:33:36Sales of prosecco skyrocketed in 2012.

0:33:36 > 0:33:39It's quite nice when people are walking around

0:33:39 > 0:33:40and you say, "Fancy a glass of wine?"

0:33:40 > 0:33:42You know, or, "Do you fancy a prosecco?"

0:33:42 > 0:33:45- I've never said no to that! - Well, exactly!

0:33:45 > 0:33:48The modern street party is a sign of growing affluence.

0:33:48 > 0:33:50Historically, it was up to the sovereign to make

0:33:50 > 0:33:54their jubilee go with a swing by giving food to the poor.

0:33:55 > 0:33:59In 1809, to commemorate George III's Golden Jubilee,

0:33:59 > 0:34:03hundreds of oxen were roasted all over the country.

0:34:03 > 0:34:05At Bachelors Acre in Windsor,

0:34:05 > 0:34:08George's Queen, Charlotte, joined in the celebrations with her children.

0:34:10 > 0:34:13She liked the beef so much she even came back for seconds.

0:34:13 > 0:34:16And there's a permanent reminder of that event at the park.

0:34:18 > 0:34:20Polly's meeting Windsor Council's Paul Roach

0:34:20 > 0:34:24to find out how the ox roast was revived for our present queen.

0:34:25 > 0:34:27- Hello.- Hello!- Hi.

0:34:27 > 0:34:29Welcome to Bachelors Acre in Windsor.

0:34:29 > 0:34:31Thank you. And what is this?

0:34:31 > 0:34:33This is our obelisk,

0:34:33 > 0:34:35commemorating two of the ox roasts that took place here.

0:34:36 > 0:34:38It took a few months of planning,

0:34:38 > 0:34:40then the consent of Her Majesty

0:34:40 > 0:34:41to make it all happen.

0:34:41 > 0:34:45- I wrote to the Queen and then we received a letter back...- Oh.

0:34:45 > 0:34:48On the 21st of May, 2012.

0:34:48 > 0:34:49From Buckingham Palace.

0:34:49 > 0:34:53From Buckingham Palace, acknowledging the fact

0:34:53 > 0:34:54that we'd requested an ox

0:34:54 > 0:34:58and the Queen graciously agreeing to donating an ox for us.

0:34:58 > 0:35:01Fantastic. And it says here, "The Queen will be pleased to receive

0:35:01 > 0:35:04"an update of the event, so would you be kind enough to write again?"

0:35:04 > 0:35:06- Did you do that?- Yes, we did.

0:35:06 > 0:35:07Oh, I'm glad.

0:35:07 > 0:35:10- So, we fed 1,200 people. - All gathered in this area?

0:35:10 > 0:35:12All gathered in Bachelors Acre.

0:35:12 > 0:35:18The first slice was ceremonially cut by the Air Marshal, Ian McFadden,

0:35:18 > 0:35:20Governor of the castle, which is also a tradition

0:35:20 > 0:35:22and has been followed through.

0:35:22 > 0:35:23What, they kind of cut the first slice?

0:35:23 > 0:35:25The first slice. It was auctioned.

0:35:25 > 0:35:28So how would an ox have been traditionally roasted?

0:35:28 > 0:35:32In 2002, they dug a huge pit.

0:35:32 > 0:35:33- Right here?- In the Acre.

0:35:33 > 0:35:38And then what they would do is just tonnes and tonnes of wood,

0:35:38 > 0:35:41- light the wood and then roast the ox...- On a huge spit?

0:35:41 > 0:35:46..on a spit, which would take about sort of 22 to 30 hours.

0:35:46 > 0:35:50And we had wonderful smells all that evening, which was great, so we were

0:35:50 > 0:35:52serving from about 12 o'clock in the afternoon.

0:35:52 > 0:35:54Amazing. But actually it still takes place here.

0:35:54 > 0:35:57It's not that you wheel it in or anything.

0:35:57 > 0:35:59It actually takes place here, just as it has.

0:35:59 > 0:36:02- All cooked on site.- Since 1809. - Yes.

0:36:02 > 0:36:03Fantastic.

0:36:09 > 0:36:11Buckingham Palace kitchen maid Mildred Nicholls

0:36:11 > 0:36:15was too young to remember Victoria's Golden Jubilee.

0:36:15 > 0:36:17The dishes created for that anniversary

0:36:17 > 0:36:19lived on in her recipe book.

0:36:22 > 0:36:26Mildred Nicholls was kitchen maid at Buckingham Palace in the early years

0:36:26 > 0:36:29of the 1900s, and this recipe book - look at this, Anna -

0:36:29 > 0:36:32this recipe book, it's the only one of its kind in the Royal archives.

0:36:32 > 0:36:34Look at the writing.

0:36:34 > 0:36:37Contains details of dishes at great events for three reigns,

0:36:37 > 0:36:39like this one, look.

0:36:39 > 0:36:41You can just about make it out, can't you?

0:36:41 > 0:36:43Cerise Jubilee.

0:36:43 > 0:36:46It was a pudding that was served at the Golden Jubilee of

0:36:46 > 0:36:49Queen Victoria, from some chef called Escoffier,

0:36:49 > 0:36:51- whom even I have heard of. - Yes, I'd imagine you'd heard of him.

0:36:51 > 0:36:53He was one of the most famous chefs in the world.

0:36:53 > 0:36:55Actually, it just occurred to me -

0:36:55 > 0:36:58do you actually get the word "to scoff" from that?

0:36:58 > 0:37:00I'd imagine he did a lot of scoffing in his time.

0:37:00 > 0:37:01MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:37:01 > 0:37:03But actually he may have been a great chef,

0:37:03 > 0:37:07but this Cerise Jubilee is actually a doddle, isn't it?

0:37:07 > 0:37:08Well, it does look quite simple.

0:37:08 > 0:37:10I think it's probably easy enough for YOU to make.

0:37:10 > 0:37:12HE SCOFFS

0:37:12 > 0:37:13- Is that scoffing?- Yes!

0:37:13 > 0:37:15THEY LAUGH

0:37:15 > 0:37:16Now, what is it? Hang on.

0:37:16 > 0:37:19We've got cherries, we've got kirsch and we've got ice cream.

0:37:19 > 0:37:21- That's it, is it?- Yeah. You just bring it up to the boil,

0:37:21 > 0:37:23reduce it a little bit and then pour it over.

0:37:23 > 0:37:24- Sling it on the top.- Yeah.

0:37:24 > 0:37:25- And set light to it?- Yeah.

0:37:25 > 0:37:27But today we're not going to flambe it.

0:37:27 > 0:37:29We're just going to pour this over the top.

0:37:29 > 0:37:31- Let's get rid of it.- It does look good, though, doesn't it?

0:37:31 > 0:37:33- It does look rather good. - It does look good.

0:37:33 > 0:37:36But it's not up to your standard. You can do better than that.

0:37:36 > 0:37:37I think we can do something.

0:37:37 > 0:37:39Let me take that away. What are YOU going to do?

0:37:39 > 0:37:42OK, so, today I'm going to make chocolate delice,

0:37:42 > 0:37:45and that was served at the current Queen's Diamond Jubilee.

0:37:45 > 0:37:48- Wow.- Right, so a delice could be any flavour you want.

0:37:48 > 0:37:51It has a custard base where you add a puree or a chocolate to it

0:37:51 > 0:37:53and then you fold in some whipped cream.

0:37:53 > 0:37:54And that's a delice.

0:37:54 > 0:37:56But this is a slightly different delice,

0:37:56 > 0:38:00because I've added a base so it makes it easier to kind of portion

0:38:00 > 0:38:02and serve. And there's cornflakes on it

0:38:02 > 0:38:06to give it that kind of crunch and a bit of an extra texture.

0:38:06 > 0:38:08Do you think the Queen had cornflakes?

0:38:08 > 0:38:10I do not think the Queen had cornflakes,

0:38:10 > 0:38:11but I think she missed out,

0:38:11 > 0:38:13because they think it's a wonderful addition to a delice.

0:38:13 > 0:38:15OK, let's do it.

0:38:15 > 0:38:17So, I'm going to start first with the base.

0:38:17 > 0:38:20So here I've already pureed up some Florentine biscuits,

0:38:20 > 0:38:22kind of created this home-made praline.

0:38:22 > 0:38:25And I'm going to take the cornflakes that I've toasted a little bit

0:38:25 > 0:38:27in the oven to give them a little bit more depth of flavour.

0:38:27 > 0:38:31I know that's a strange thing to say, that cornflakes have depth of flavour!

0:38:31 > 0:38:33They're cornflakes, for goodness' sake!

0:38:33 > 0:38:35But it does. It gives them a toastier flavour.

0:38:35 > 0:38:38And then, on top, I'm just going to put the praline paste

0:38:38 > 0:38:40and pulse it one or two times.

0:38:40 > 0:38:42- You say "prawline".- Yes. - I say "praline".

0:38:42 > 0:38:44I know. It's not your fault that you're pronouncing it wrong!

0:38:44 > 0:38:46MICHAEL GUFFAWS

0:38:46 > 0:38:48So I'm just going to pulse this.

0:38:49 > 0:38:52OK, so you just continue to puree that for a few minutes and then you

0:38:52 > 0:38:57just press it into the base of your chocolate delice.

0:38:57 > 0:39:01But it is quite an interesting twist for a base that would work well with

0:39:01 > 0:39:02a cheesecake, as well.

0:39:02 > 0:39:06So I'm going to bring my cream up to boil to make the custard,

0:39:06 > 0:39:09which will become the topping of the cake.

0:39:09 > 0:39:11So I have some sugar here and some eggs

0:39:11 > 0:39:13and I'm going to whisk them in together,

0:39:13 > 0:39:15while I wait for the cream to boil.

0:39:20 > 0:39:22Honestly, this isn't actually that hard.

0:39:22 > 0:39:24I think it looks quite...

0:39:24 > 0:39:26At the end, it is quite a special dessert, at the end,

0:39:26 > 0:39:28but it is quite simple.

0:39:28 > 0:39:30This is an adaptation of the original recipe,

0:39:30 > 0:39:32so that it's a bit easier for people at home to make.

0:39:32 > 0:39:35So the cream is now boiling, so I'm just going to, first of all,

0:39:35 > 0:39:38pour a little bit on, just to kind of scald the mix.

0:39:38 > 0:39:39Can I hold that for you?

0:39:39 > 0:39:42Yes. You make a wonderful commis!

0:39:42 > 0:39:44- You're my commis chef. - Oh, right, OK.

0:39:44 > 0:39:46- So I'm going to put this back in the pot...- OK.

0:39:46 > 0:39:48..and thicken it.

0:39:48 > 0:39:51You don't need to use another pot. You can just use the same pot again.

0:39:51 > 0:39:53So we're just going to thicken this.

0:39:53 > 0:39:55You've got to stir this the whole time.

0:39:55 > 0:39:58OK, so now I'm just going to pour the custard onto the chocolate.

0:39:58 > 0:40:00- Oh, this looks lovely, doesn't it? - Yeah, it does.- Oh, wow.

0:40:00 > 0:40:02But the main thing is that

0:40:02 > 0:40:04you don't actually stir that for a few minutes.

0:40:04 > 0:40:07- Why?- So you give it the opportunity for the chocolate to melt.

0:40:07 > 0:40:08- Ah, right. - Kind of keeps the heat in it.

0:40:08 > 0:40:11Like I said, you leave that for just a minute or two and then you'll take

0:40:11 > 0:40:14your whisk and just give it a stir and you'll see it all melt.

0:40:14 > 0:40:17See that? All coming together, and it's lovely.

0:40:17 > 0:40:18Into a wonderful gooey mess.

0:40:18 > 0:40:20Yeah. And then you've got to let that chill for a little while,

0:40:20 > 0:40:23because if you add your whipped cream now, it'll just melt.

0:40:23 > 0:40:26And that'll be a hot mess.

0:40:26 > 0:40:29OK, so I actually have a slightly cooled down mix that I made

0:40:29 > 0:40:31earlier on, so I'm going to use that now.

0:40:31 > 0:40:34- Fold the cream through. So this is it here.- Oh, yeah.

0:40:34 > 0:40:35- It looks nice, yeah? - It does, doesn't it?

0:40:35 > 0:40:38So if you just passed me the whipped cream there, please.

0:40:38 > 0:40:39There we go. That's the white one, is it?

0:40:39 > 0:40:41That it! You learn fast, don't you?

0:40:41 > 0:40:43I know, I know, I'm a natural, actually.

0:40:43 > 0:40:47Yes. Any time that you're folding in two ingredients,

0:40:47 > 0:40:49you tend to take the lighter ingredient

0:40:49 > 0:40:50and fold it into the heavier one,

0:40:50 > 0:40:52so I take one spoon of it

0:40:52 > 0:40:54and hopefully that will kind of help lighten it up a little bit.

0:40:54 > 0:40:56Rather than the other way around?

0:40:56 > 0:40:59Yeah, because otherwise it would just be lumpy.

0:40:59 > 0:41:01Yeah. OK, so this is folded through quite nicely,

0:41:01 > 0:41:05so all I'm going to do is put it inside the mould, flatten it out.

0:41:05 > 0:41:06Quite delicious.

0:41:06 > 0:41:09It looks absolutely delightful, doesn't it?

0:41:09 > 0:41:10OK, so just...

0:41:12 > 0:41:15This, you'll need to set in the fridge for about two hours or so,

0:41:15 > 0:41:17or, really, as long as you can is better.

0:41:18 > 0:41:20So, yeah, just flatten it down.

0:41:20 > 0:41:22I mean, honestly, I just want to eat this.

0:41:22 > 0:41:24You can smell the chocolate.

0:41:24 > 0:41:26The better the chocolate you use, the...

0:41:26 > 0:41:28Yeah, the happier the results.

0:41:28 > 0:41:31- Yeah.- That's all nice and flat now.

0:41:31 > 0:41:32- You did that brilliantly. - I know.

0:41:32 > 0:41:34You made the most wonderful flat top to it.

0:41:34 > 0:41:37You either have it or you don't, Michael!

0:41:37 > 0:41:39So now I'm just going to dust some cocoa on top.

0:41:39 > 0:41:40OK.

0:41:40 > 0:41:44So just a nice little dusting of cocoa on top.

0:41:46 > 0:41:49And then I'm just going to clean the kind of outside so that will be...

0:41:49 > 0:41:52Yes, you've made a bit of a mess there, I've noticed.

0:41:54 > 0:41:58So, you want to be able to put this into the fridge

0:41:58 > 0:42:00for at least two hours, ideally overnight,

0:42:00 > 0:42:02but I would never expect you to wait that long.

0:42:02 > 0:42:05Ah, you know me too well! You have a plan.

0:42:05 > 0:42:07Pop that over there and I'll get the one I made earlier.

0:42:07 > 0:42:09OK, all right.

0:42:09 > 0:42:10Big reveal.

0:42:10 > 0:42:11- May I?- You may.

0:42:11 > 0:42:13Oh, I like this.

0:42:13 > 0:42:15My big moment.

0:42:15 > 0:42:16Ooh!

0:42:16 > 0:42:19Oh, look at that!

0:42:19 > 0:42:21Don't look at it too long. Cut it.

0:42:21 > 0:42:25Yes. So you need a nice hot knife to cut through your chocolate.

0:42:28 > 0:42:31- Oooh.- This is the good bit. Ohh!

0:42:31 > 0:42:32MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:42:34 > 0:42:36Oh, yes, I think that's probably about the right size.

0:42:38 > 0:42:39It's like the Grand Canyon.

0:42:41 > 0:42:42Here we go.

0:42:42 > 0:42:43Now...

0:42:43 > 0:42:45Oh, wow.

0:42:46 > 0:42:48My word, look at that.

0:42:48 > 0:42:50After you.

0:42:51 > 0:42:53I'm going to have the... I like the bit at the end.

0:42:53 > 0:42:54Mm!

0:42:54 > 0:42:55Hang on.

0:42:55 > 0:42:57Mm!

0:42:57 > 0:42:59I don't think you like that, Michael, did you?

0:42:59 > 0:43:00No, I hate it, hate it.

0:43:00 > 0:43:02But I might go off...and scoff it.

0:43:02 > 0:43:04ANNA LAUGHS

0:43:04 > 0:43:06Mm. The end of a perfect banquet, I imagine.

0:43:06 > 0:43:07I can't get any of it in.

0:43:07 > 0:43:10- And the end of the programme.- Mm!

0:43:10 > 0:43:11Mm! Till next time...