Royal Visits

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0:00:04 > 0:00:06Hello, I'm Michael Buerk.

0:00:06 > 0:00:10Welcome to a brand-new series of Royal Recipes.

0:00:10 > 0:00:14This time, we're at Westonbirt House, formerly a grand country

0:00:14 > 0:00:16house, now a boarding school,

0:00:16 > 0:00:20which has played host to royal visitors for over 100 years.

0:00:21 > 0:00:24In this series, we're delving even further back in time to reveal over

0:00:24 > 0:00:27600 years of royal food heritage.

0:00:27 > 0:00:30You play Anne Boleyn...

0:00:30 > 0:00:32and I will play Henry VIII.

0:00:32 > 0:00:35And we've been busy unlocking the secrets of Britain's great food

0:00:35 > 0:00:40archives, discovering rare and unseen recipes that have been royal

0:00:40 > 0:00:42favourites through the ages...

0:00:43 > 0:00:46..from the earliest royal cookbook in 1390...

0:00:46 > 0:00:50It's so precious, so special, that I'm not allowed to touch it.

0:00:50 > 0:00:53..to Tudor treats from the court of Henry VIII.

0:00:53 > 0:00:56I can't wait for this. One, two, three.

0:00:58 > 0:01:02We'll be exploring the great culinary traditions enjoyed by

0:01:02 > 0:01:05the royal family. From the grand to the ground-breaking,

0:01:05 > 0:01:07as well as the surprisingly simple...

0:01:07 > 0:01:10I did think that was going to be a disaster.

0:01:14 > 0:01:17..as we hear from a host of royal chefs...

0:01:17 > 0:01:20Prince Philip would walk past or pop his head in and say,

0:01:20 > 0:01:22"What's for dinner, what we having?"

0:01:22 > 0:01:25Oh, yeah. It's not just a normal kitchen!

0:01:25 > 0:01:28..and meet the people who provide for the royal table.

0:01:28 > 0:01:32If it's OK for the Queen, it's OK for everyone.

0:01:32 > 0:01:34Welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:01:40 > 0:01:41In today's programme,

0:01:41 > 0:01:44we're going to be looking at the food that's served up when a royal

0:01:44 > 0:01:46personage pays a call,

0:01:46 > 0:01:48whether that's a British royal

0:01:48 > 0:01:52dropping in, or a full-blown state visit from foreign royalty.

0:01:58 > 0:02:00This time, on Royal Recipes...

0:02:00 > 0:02:04..chef Paul Ainsworth has aspirations for his souffle.

0:02:05 > 0:02:07Middle shelf will be fine, Michael.

0:02:07 > 0:02:10They're going to rise that high, and I don't want them to touch the top.

0:02:12 > 0:02:15We'll be riding the rails in royal style...

0:02:15 > 0:02:16This is just incredible.

0:02:16 > 0:02:18It's fabulous, isn't it?

0:02:18 > 0:02:20..and putting a modern spin on a banquet

0:02:20 > 0:02:23thrown for a Persian potentate.

0:02:23 > 0:02:24- Ready?- Yep.

0:02:24 > 0:02:26- Wahey!- Yeah.

0:02:36 > 0:02:39I'm here in the Royal Recipes kitchen with Michelin-starred chef

0:02:39 > 0:02:42Paul Ainsworth. What are you cooking now?

0:02:42 > 0:02:44A very luxurious dish today, Michael -

0:02:44 > 0:02:46lobster souffle.

0:02:46 > 0:02:48- Oh!- Yes!- Now that is a really right royal dish, isn't it?

0:02:48 > 0:02:51And it's one cooked by Prince William, you know,

0:02:51 > 0:02:53three months after they were married,

0:02:53 > 0:02:55their first royal tour together,

0:02:55 > 0:02:58they went to Canada, and in Quebec they went to a cookery school,

0:02:58 > 0:03:02- and he had to do this dish, high-risk dish...- Yeah.- ..and he

0:03:02 > 0:03:05- pulled it off, which was quite a shock.- Did he pull it off?- He did.

0:03:05 > 0:03:07- Good on him. The pressure's on me today!- Well, it's a risky dish, no?

0:03:07 > 0:03:10It's about the flavour of it. Sometimes you can get all hung up on

0:03:10 > 0:03:12the rise and the height. As long as it tastes nice,

0:03:12 > 0:03:14that's the most important thing.

0:03:14 > 0:03:17- What...?- And what we've got in here is butter, and now we're going to

0:03:17 > 0:03:19add in our flour. And we just basically want to bring that

0:03:19 > 0:03:23together. So just gently, don't let it catch, and then just the butter

0:03:23 > 0:03:25and the flour basically work together, like so.

0:03:25 > 0:03:28- Here, we have our lobster bisque. - Mm-hm.- We're just going to add

0:03:28 > 0:03:31a little bit at a time, so you're just basically working it in.

0:03:31 > 0:03:33Don't just, don't just add it all in at once.

0:03:33 > 0:03:36- You've got quite a paste there, really.- And that what it's going

0:03:36 > 0:03:39to be. This is basically, like, the body of our souffle.

0:03:39 > 0:03:41It is such a lovely rich colour, isn't it?

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- Yeah.- Right, OK.- Do you do souffles a lot in your restaurant?

0:03:44 > 0:03:47No, we don't. I wouldn't say it's something that I'm a massive fan of,

0:03:47 > 0:03:50but I appreciate why people love them. It's the theatre, isn't it?

0:03:50 > 0:03:51- Mmm. It is. Yeah.- OK.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54So now, we have our veloute, OK?

0:03:54 > 0:03:57Very thick. We're just going to add to that some Parmesan.

0:03:57 > 0:04:00- So that's going to give it a real flavour, isn't it?- Real, real kick.

0:04:00 > 0:04:02Now, Michael, if I could ask you, please, can you whisk up

0:04:02 > 0:04:05- those egg whites there? Right next to...- These here?- Yes, please.

0:04:05 > 0:04:07- OK.- Thank you.- Here we go.- Just soft peaks, all right?- Yeah.

0:04:09 > 0:04:10They'll whisk up real quickly.

0:04:10 > 0:04:12- I appreciate your trust in me, Paul. - Yes, no, course!

0:04:12 > 0:04:14PAUL LAUGHS

0:04:14 > 0:04:16- Misplaced, possibly. - Misplaced, yeah?

0:04:18 > 0:04:21- How you getting on?- All right. - Fantastic. Well, brilliant.

0:04:21 > 0:04:24- It's going to take off in a minute! - Yeah!

0:04:24 > 0:04:27Keep going. Yeah. So you're just kind of getting like a froth peak.

0:04:29 > 0:04:30That's it.

0:04:30 > 0:04:34- Fabulous. OK, turn it off.- Turn it off?- Yeah.

0:04:34 > 0:04:36Brilliant. Off, all the way.

0:04:36 > 0:04:39- That's it, give it a little... That's it.- Hang on.

0:04:40 > 0:04:44- Was I brilliant?- You were absolutely phenomenal.

0:04:44 > 0:04:46- Can I have a job?- Er...- I'll be looking for one after this.

0:04:47 > 0:04:49Any day of the week.

0:04:49 > 0:04:51- And now this is the important bit, OK?- Yeah.

0:04:51 > 0:04:54Just be really gentle, cos you

0:04:54 > 0:04:56don't want to knock the air out, so I'm just gently...

0:04:56 > 0:04:59- ..what we call a folding technique. - Yeah.- That's what's going to help

0:04:59 > 0:05:02- the mix rise. - The bloke who really made souffle

0:05:02 > 0:05:05the, you know, the glamorous luxury dish

0:05:05 > 0:05:09was a guy called Marie-Antoine Careme, who was

0:05:09 > 0:05:11chef to Prince Regent...

0:05:11 > 0:05:13- Yes.- ..the Prince Regent, later George IV, yeah.

0:05:13 > 0:05:16So while I'm just doing this, Michael, over there are my moulds,

0:05:16 > 0:05:20- OK?- Yeah. - Now what I've done is I've buttered them once.- Yeah.

0:05:20 > 0:05:23- Put them in the fridge, let the butter set.- Yeah.- Then take them

0:05:23 > 0:05:26out, butter them again and put them in the fridge again.

0:05:26 > 0:05:29- Why do you do that?- You're basically creating like a double skin on

0:05:29 > 0:05:33the side, so the souffle will be absolutely, kind of...

0:05:33 > 0:05:36when it's in there, it'll just slide nicely up as it's rising.

0:05:36 > 0:05:38- You don't want it to catch on the sides.- No.

0:05:38 > 0:05:41- Right, here you go.- Yeah.- We're almost here, OK?

0:05:41 > 0:05:42Right, so if we just bring...

0:05:42 > 0:05:45- This one over?- ..our souffles closer, yeah.- Yeah.

0:05:45 > 0:05:47- Gosh, that's really smooth, isn't it?- Go in with our mix, like so.

0:05:47 > 0:05:51- And a lovely, lovely colour.- Now, before you go all the way...

0:05:51 > 0:05:53- we're just going to tap.- Yeah.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56And the reason's so there's no air pockets in the middle -

0:05:56 > 0:05:57it would result in it collapsing.

0:05:57 > 0:06:00- Yeah.- OK? So, again.

0:06:00 > 0:06:02Another little tap like that, or on the bottom, OK?

0:06:02 > 0:06:05Have you ever had this really fail, not rise, collapse?

0:06:05 > 0:06:07- Generally...- All the time.- Really?

0:06:07 > 0:06:09Generally on, when you do it on telly.

0:06:09 > 0:06:13THEY LAUGH

0:06:13 > 0:06:16- So, with our mix we're going to do here, Michael, ready?- Yeah.

0:06:16 > 0:06:19- We're going to...- Skim off the top? - Skim off the top, like so.

0:06:19 > 0:06:21- OK?- You have to tidy up the sides.

0:06:21 > 0:06:23Tidy up the sides, and then we've got one...

0:06:23 > 0:06:25- Don't waste it, don't waste it. - ..last little tip with souffle.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29- OK.- Right.

0:06:29 > 0:06:31- See how you've got the mix on the side there?- Yeah.- OK?

0:06:31 > 0:06:34Just with your thumb, go all the way around, like so.

0:06:34 > 0:06:38- Why are you doing that, now?- I'll show you right now.

0:06:38 > 0:06:40- Now, you see how the mix has come off the side?- Yeah.

0:06:40 > 0:06:43And when it rises, you'll have a lovely little lip going right

0:06:43 > 0:06:44the way along the side.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47- So that's another way of... - Absolutely.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- ..making sure it doesn't catch. - Doesn't catch, yeah. One last tap...

0:06:50 > 0:06:51- Yeah.- ..like that, OK?

0:06:51 > 0:06:56- Now those, in the oven, 200 - so a nice hot oven.- Hot oven. Yeah.- OK?

0:06:56 > 0:06:58For about 12 minutes.

0:06:58 > 0:07:00- 12 minutes.- OK?- OK, here it goes.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04Middle shelf'll be fine, Michael. They're going to rise that high,

0:07:04 > 0:07:06I don't want them to touch the top.

0:07:06 > 0:07:08BOTH LAUGH

0:07:08 > 0:07:10He says, he says!

0:07:10 > 0:07:11THEY LAUGH

0:07:11 > 0:07:14- Right.- So, what next?- Next we've got our lobsters.

0:07:14 > 0:07:16- Claws, the knuckles, and the tail. - Yeah.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19- I've cooked the tail for two minutes in boiling water.- Yeah.

0:07:19 > 0:07:22The claws, three minutes, and then we just take the meat, OK?

0:07:22 > 0:07:24So we're just going to take some lobster, Michael, like so,

0:07:24 > 0:07:27- and we're just going to cut it into small pieces.- Ooh!- All right?

0:07:27 > 0:07:29- Like that.- Thank you.- Absolutely.

0:07:29 > 0:07:32- You're a gent.- Absolutely delicious.

0:07:32 > 0:07:33Ooh!

0:07:33 > 0:07:36- Just so tender, isn't it?- Mmm!- We're going to take a little bit of

0:07:36 > 0:07:37knuckle, like so...

0:07:37 > 0:07:40- OK?- Mmm-hmm.- And a lovely bit of that tail, as well.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42And then what will happen, Michael,

0:07:42 > 0:07:45is the sauce that we cook it in is just going to then warm it back

0:07:45 > 0:07:48through and make it even more tender.

0:07:48 > 0:07:49So, in here, we're going to take

0:07:49 > 0:07:52- some of that lovely lobster bisque sauce.- Yeah.- OK?

0:07:54 > 0:07:56- Like so.- Then, you're straining it? Yeah.

0:07:56 > 0:07:59Straining it. And that is the shells, the tomatoes, everything in

0:07:59 > 0:08:02there - even the head, everything in it is what's giving, it's what's

0:08:02 > 0:08:04- thickening it, OK?- I mean...- OK? - ..can you actually see

0:08:04 > 0:08:05Prince William doing all this?

0:08:05 > 0:08:07- I can't.- Or maybe he got a bit of help.

0:08:07 > 0:08:08- Yeah.- OK, so what happens now?

0:08:08 > 0:08:11Right. We're going to get some chives

0:08:11 > 0:08:12and we're going to get some butter.

0:08:12 > 0:08:14We're just going to bring that up to a simmer.

0:08:14 > 0:08:17I'm just going to chop our chives.

0:08:17 > 0:08:19- Lobster, chive, like, onion. - Combination made in heaven, no?

0:08:19 > 0:08:23Oh, fantastic. Like so.

0:08:23 > 0:08:27- Righto.- Going to add in a little bit of our butter now, into our sauce.

0:08:27 > 0:08:29It'll give it a bit more body and a real luxuriousness.

0:08:29 > 0:08:31And while we're waiting we're just going to grab a lemon.

0:08:32 > 0:08:35- Like so.- Butter and lemon in everything, almost, isn't it?

0:08:35 > 0:08:36Yes! Always!

0:08:36 > 0:08:39Always trying to get that acidity coming from somewhere.

0:08:39 > 0:08:42So the butter, Michael, is just emulsifying in there beautifully.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45Little tip, as well - just make sure the butter's cold when you're

0:08:45 > 0:08:48- whisking it into a sauce.- Why?- Dice it up. Emulsifies it much nicer.

0:08:48 > 0:08:49You don't get that greasy film.

0:08:49 > 0:08:52- Right, so we're just going to have a taste.- Beautiful.

0:08:52 > 0:08:53And you can smell the lobster.

0:08:53 > 0:08:56- Right, just have a taste of that now.- I will, I will, I will.

0:08:56 > 0:08:58- OK? All right? - Give me a spoon.- OK.- Here we go.

0:09:00 > 0:09:02- Mmm!- All right? OK?

0:09:02 > 0:09:06Watch this. Just how you can change something with a squeeze of lemon

0:09:06 > 0:09:08juice and a pinch of salt.

0:09:08 > 0:09:09- OK?- Yeah.- Lemon in.

0:09:14 > 0:09:17- Now, have another taste.- Do I get another try?- Go have another taste.

0:09:20 > 0:09:22Mmm! Mmm!

0:09:22 > 0:09:24- Bang!- Brought it to life, hasn't it? - Yeah.

0:09:24 > 0:09:26- Lobster in there.- Yeah.- It just looks great, doesn't it?

0:09:26 > 0:09:30- It does, doesn't it? OK?- And, in we go, lovely fresh chives.- Yeah.

0:09:32 > 0:09:34And that is ready now.

0:09:34 > 0:09:36That looks absolutely splendid on its own, never mind the souffle!

0:09:36 > 0:09:38Yeah, let's go for that.

0:09:38 > 0:09:41- Go for it, go on.- OK.- Go and have a look.

0:09:41 > 0:09:45- How are they looking?- You did your best.- Oh, man.- You did your best.

0:09:45 > 0:09:46Oh, man!

0:09:47 > 0:09:49Look at those!

0:09:49 > 0:09:50THEY LAUGH

0:09:50 > 0:09:53- Yeah! Right.- What you...- And what we're going to do...- Yeah.

0:09:53 > 0:09:55We're just going to... Oh, look at that.

0:09:55 > 0:09:57MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:09:57 > 0:09:59- Ready?- Oh, it's worked well, come on, Paul.

0:09:59 > 0:10:02I shouldn't have doubted you, I really should not have doubted you.

0:10:02 > 0:10:04Oh, my...

0:10:04 > 0:10:06I've fallen in love with souffle again.

0:10:06 > 0:10:08- Look at that.- Look at that!

0:10:08 > 0:10:11- Cor, yes!- Here.- You first.- No, come on, it's your...- No, no, no,

0:10:11 > 0:10:13- you first, you first.- Sure.

0:10:13 > 0:10:16Let's not argue about it, let's eat it. I'm going to have that bit of...

0:10:18 > 0:10:19Mmm!

0:10:21 > 0:10:22Mmm.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24- It's beautifully light.- Mmm.

0:10:24 > 0:10:26And you've got all the richness...

0:10:26 > 0:10:29- with the lobster.- And you get the Parmesan.

0:10:29 > 0:10:33It's a complete souffle triumph.

0:10:35 > 0:10:39You have to wonder how Prince William's version of this classic

0:10:39 > 0:10:40French dish turned out.

0:10:43 > 0:10:46As well as souffles, the French are well known for their cheese,

0:10:46 > 0:10:50but in Britain, we produce more different kinds even than the

0:10:50 > 0:10:53French, over 700 named varieties,

0:10:53 > 0:10:56and many of them are royal favourites.

0:10:59 > 0:11:03Royal warrant holders Charles Martel And Sons have been making cheese

0:11:03 > 0:11:08from their own Old Gloucester cattle for 45 years.

0:11:08 > 0:11:11Despite having no formal training in cheese-making, today,

0:11:11 > 0:11:14Charles supplies his varieties to six continents,

0:11:14 > 0:11:1732 countries, and one member of the royal family.

0:11:20 > 0:11:24He began making a cheese called Stinking Bishop in 1994, and has

0:11:24 > 0:11:30supplied Prince Charles at Highgrove for around 15 years.

0:11:30 > 0:11:34It started, I received a phone call, would I make the cheese? Well...

0:11:35 > 0:11:37..of course, I didn't say no, did I?

0:11:37 > 0:11:39And, er, "Oh, it's wonderful."

0:11:39 > 0:11:41So we've been making it ever since.

0:11:42 > 0:11:45We received the royal warrant ten years ago, this year.

0:11:46 > 0:11:48In fact, in recognition of that,

0:11:48 > 0:11:52we decided, "We're going to make a royal delivery by horse and cart,"

0:11:52 > 0:11:53in this vehicle.

0:11:53 > 0:11:56It's a little celebration for us, really. It's purely self-indulgent,

0:11:56 > 0:12:00but I hope it puts a smile on people's faces as we've passed

0:12:00 > 0:12:01through the town.

0:12:01 > 0:12:04The Prince of Wales was so taken with the cheese that

0:12:04 > 0:12:06he had Charles and his team make a new version

0:12:06 > 0:12:08with milk from the Highgrove herd.

0:12:08 > 0:12:11His Royal Highness wanted to enter it in the British Cheese Awards.

0:12:11 > 0:12:13Well, we'd already entered.

0:12:13 > 0:12:16Can't have two cheeses the same name, the same competition.

0:12:17 > 0:12:19To get around the rules, Prince Charles named his

0:12:19 > 0:12:22cheese Starveall Royal.

0:12:22 > 0:12:24And what do you know? He was victorious!

0:12:24 > 0:12:26He won the prize, and I, from memory,

0:12:26 > 0:12:28I think I got a congratulation off him, and I,

0:12:28 > 0:12:29and my response was, "Well, sir,

0:12:29 > 0:12:33"I wouldn't have expected to do anything less for you, otherwise I

0:12:33 > 0:12:35"might lose my head!"

0:12:35 > 0:12:37Charles started the company not because of a love of cheese,

0:12:37 > 0:12:41but out of concern that the Old Gloucester cows were an endangered

0:12:41 > 0:12:44breed and needed help to survive.

0:12:44 > 0:12:47So at that time, there were just 68 of these cattle left in the world,

0:12:47 > 0:12:50and I managed to get hold of three, and a bull, very important!

0:12:50 > 0:12:54And I milked them and, of course, made cheese, because that's what

0:12:54 > 0:12:56you do with them. They're not just to look at.

0:12:56 > 0:12:59If you keep them as pets, you're going to lose them, basically.

0:12:59 > 0:13:03And you need to give them a job of work so other people can milk them

0:13:03 > 0:13:06and there are. There are now six of us making single Gloucester cheese

0:13:06 > 0:13:08from their milk and that's a protected product, it can only be

0:13:08 > 0:13:11made in Gloucestershire on farms that have Gloucester cows.

0:13:11 > 0:13:13As a local to the area,

0:13:13 > 0:13:17Charles' passion for conservation didn't stop at saving the cows.

0:13:17 > 0:13:19He wanted to help the pear trees, too.

0:13:20 > 0:13:23Perry made from the pears coats the cheese,

0:13:23 > 0:13:27and it's this that bestows its distinctive smell and taste.

0:13:27 > 0:13:32I started replanting the perry pears I was so concerned about in 1977,

0:13:32 > 0:13:34and that's been fun.

0:13:34 > 0:13:38But to link it to the cheese, it's sort of, everything comes

0:13:38 > 0:13:39together, eventually.

0:13:39 > 0:13:42The cheese's name comes from the variety of perry pear called

0:13:42 > 0:13:44Stinking Bishop.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48It's a full-fat, pasteurised, cow's milk cheese,

0:13:48 > 0:13:50made with vegetarian rennet.

0:13:51 > 0:13:58As with any cheese, the first step is to separate the curds and whey.

0:13:58 > 0:14:02See how slowly it goes, you can see the whey appearing.

0:14:02 > 0:14:04And the more they cut,

0:14:04 > 0:14:07the more whey escapes.

0:14:07 > 0:14:09I would say 90% of this milk, by weight...

0:14:10 > 0:14:13..is whey, and goes to feed pigs.

0:14:13 > 0:14:1610% is what we actually make in to cheese.

0:14:17 > 0:14:21The curds are then pressed into cheese moulds and left to set in a

0:14:21 > 0:14:26cool room for four hours, before being washed with perry.

0:14:26 > 0:14:28HE HUMS

0:14:28 > 0:14:29Just dip it in.

0:14:30 > 0:14:32And that's all we do.

0:14:32 > 0:14:35And that will cause special bacteria to grow,

0:14:35 > 0:14:39which is very smelly, and then we'll put...

0:14:39 > 0:14:40..a piece of wood round.

0:14:40 > 0:14:43The reason for that is, the cheese becomes very soft,

0:14:43 > 0:14:46and it will travel a great distance!

0:14:46 > 0:14:49So putting the wood on just holds it up together

0:14:49 > 0:14:52and stops it collapsing, basically.

0:14:52 > 0:14:55The cheese is then left for 6-8 weeks to mature

0:14:55 > 0:14:59in a room that has a consistent temperature and humidity.

0:14:59 > 0:15:02This is the, hopefully, the finished product.

0:15:02 > 0:15:05You can see it's nice and sort of pinky brown.

0:15:05 > 0:15:09That's the bacteria that gives the flavour, and, also,

0:15:09 > 0:15:11the tremendous smell.

0:15:11 > 0:15:14I'm just going to check this cheese is up to standard.

0:15:14 > 0:15:16Let's take a...

0:15:17 > 0:15:20..a core out.

0:15:20 > 0:15:24It's quite elastic, bit shiny.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26Basically, I can see it's exactly as we want it.

0:15:30 > 0:15:31And the flavour is...

0:15:35 > 0:15:36Yep, that's good, that is good.

0:15:36 > 0:15:38Wow, yes, I like that.

0:15:38 > 0:15:40And, of course, the characteristic smell -

0:15:40 > 0:15:42it has that, whether we like it or not.

0:15:43 > 0:15:45Some like it, some hate it.

0:15:45 > 0:15:49Reputedly, the...Prince Charles is tolerant to the smell.

0:15:49 > 0:15:51So that's good for us!

0:15:59 > 0:16:01You can almost smell the cheese from here, can't you?

0:16:01 > 0:16:03What are you up to, Paul?

0:16:03 > 0:16:06So, we are doing a wonderful roasted lamb rump, smoked in hay,

0:16:06 > 0:16:08with creamed cucumber.

0:16:08 > 0:16:10Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho-ho! Now, this is your take, a version...

0:16:10 > 0:16:14- Yes. A version of...- ..of a very special dish that was served to

0:16:14 > 0:16:17- Mozafa Al-Din, the Shah of Persia... - Yeah.

0:16:17 > 0:16:19..when he was Edward VII's guest

0:16:19 > 0:16:23on the royal yacht in Portsmouth Harbour, in the early 1900s.

0:16:23 > 0:16:25- Right! OK.- Your take on it. - My take on it, yeah.

0:16:25 > 0:16:28- Now, what cut of meat have you got there?- This is the rump.

0:16:28 > 0:16:30- OK?- Mmm.- So, right near the... - Juicy.

0:16:30 > 0:16:33- Juicy, right near the back end, obviously.- Mmm-hmm.- And what we're

0:16:33 > 0:16:36- doing, we're just seasoning it, OK? - Mm-hm.- We've rubbed some oil on it.

0:16:36 > 0:16:38- We've then scored it, OK?- Yeah. - Lets the seasoning in,

0:16:38 > 0:16:41- lets the flavouring in, and especially the smoke in.- Mmm.

0:16:41 > 0:16:43I've got some hay. This is feeding hay, not...

0:16:43 > 0:16:45MICHAEL LAUGHS I thought your salad was a bit dry!

0:16:45 > 0:16:46Yeah, I know, I tell you what,

0:16:46 > 0:16:49I don't know what's happened to this rocket, Michael!

0:16:50 > 0:16:52So we've got feeding hay here, not bedding hay.

0:16:52 > 0:16:54Make sure you get the feeding hay.

0:16:54 > 0:16:56- The bedding's very dusty.- Yeah.

0:16:56 > 0:16:58- OK, so this has been washed, all right?- Yeah.- Rumps, straight on.

0:16:58 > 0:17:00- Now, I've only put a little bit of...- Fat side down?

0:17:00 > 0:17:02Fat side down straight away, because

0:17:02 > 0:17:05- what we want to do is start rendering that fat, all right?- Yeah.

0:17:05 > 0:17:08What that means is, is basically the heat's going to come up

0:17:08 > 0:17:09and just melt the fat. All right?

0:17:09 > 0:17:12Ooh, and the flames have started leaping up already, look!

0:17:12 > 0:17:16- Absolutely.- Actually, it's rather a...a bit of a Levantine dish,

0:17:16 > 0:17:19- isn't it?- Yeah.- The Shah's coming from Persia, now Iran, of course.

0:17:19 > 0:17:22- But this is the sort of thing that they eat there, isn't it?- Yeah.

0:17:22 > 0:17:24That combination of lamb and cucumber.

0:17:24 > 0:17:27So we're just going to let those roast off, OK?

0:17:27 > 0:17:30And get a nice caramelisation happening on there.

0:17:30 > 0:17:34Now, over here, we're going to move to our creamed cucumber.

0:17:34 > 0:17:36So we've got some white onion which we've just sliced.

0:17:36 > 0:17:39- Take our cucumber, like so.- There we go.- All right?

0:17:43 > 0:17:44Just some nice thin slices.

0:17:44 > 0:17:49I never tire of watching a good chef, or you, do this.

0:17:53 > 0:17:54Brilliant, yeah.

0:17:54 > 0:17:58Let me tell you about the Shah, because he made a... Keep laughing!

0:17:58 > 0:18:01He made quite an impression when he arrived in Portsmouth,

0:18:01 > 0:18:02went through the streets,

0:18:02 > 0:18:05- because he had this socking great diamond in his hat...- Yeah.

0:18:05 > 0:18:10..the largest pink diamond in the world, 183 carats.

0:18:10 > 0:18:12- And it made a terrific impression on the crowds...- Yeah.

0:18:12 > 0:18:15..who had turned out to see him going for his lamb.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17- Right.- Do you know, they've lost it?- Yeah?

0:18:17 > 0:18:19Biggest diamond in the world, nobody knows where it is.

0:18:19 > 0:18:22- OK, what next?- Right, OK. Sugar.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25- Mmm-hmm, all right. Sugar?!- Yeah. Nice pinch of salt.- Mmm-hmm.

0:18:25 > 0:18:28What we're doing here, we're just trying to get as much of that

0:18:28 > 0:18:31- moisture out of the cucumber and out of the onion, OK?- Mmm-hmm.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35So we intensify the flavour, but we also just kind of break them down

0:18:35 > 0:18:38just slightly. So just fold that round, like so,

0:18:38 > 0:18:41- OK, and put that to one side.- Yeah. - OK? So we're just going to leave

0:18:41 > 0:18:44that for one hour and what we'll find is all the water will go to

0:18:44 > 0:18:46- the bottom and we're going to pour that off.- Yeah.

0:18:46 > 0:18:49- In the meantime, we're going to come back to our hay.- Yeah.- All right?

0:18:49 > 0:18:52- So our lamb has been beautifully roasting. Yeah.- OK?

0:18:52 > 0:18:55- You going to turn that?- So we've got that nice roasted lamb like that.

0:18:55 > 0:18:57Look at that nice bar marking of the lamb.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00So now we get our hay. So we've soaked that hay, and

0:19:00 > 0:19:02the reason we soak it is so that it doesn't ignite.

0:19:02 > 0:19:05- It's not just dry hay.- It would go up in flames. It'd go whoosh!- OK.

0:19:05 > 0:19:07- Put that over those coals.- Yeah.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10Now, what that's going to do, it's going to start smouldering.

0:19:11 > 0:19:14- And you'll see, can you see us starting to get the smoke?- Yeah.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17- All right?- Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho-ho! Yeah.- OK.- I see what you mean.

0:19:17 > 0:19:18Put that in there, like so.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20Does it really make much difference to the taste?

0:19:20 > 0:19:23Wait till you see. Now we're going to let that smoke,

0:19:23 > 0:19:24- OK, and let that cook.- OK.

0:19:24 > 0:19:28So we just, basically, squeeze out as much of that liquid as we can.

0:19:28 > 0:19:31Now, if you just, see how soft they've gone? Yeah. And that's just

0:19:31 > 0:19:34from the salt and sugar, but they've still got a nice little bit of

0:19:34 > 0:19:37crunch to them. So, over here, sour cream. All right?

0:19:37 > 0:19:39Nice dollop of sour cream.

0:19:39 > 0:19:42Of course the Shah, in his country, would have had yoghurt rather than

0:19:42 > 0:19:45- sour cream.- Yeah. Definitely, absolutely. So over here, I'm just

0:19:45 > 0:19:47going to add some mint.

0:19:47 > 0:19:49So we'll just literally, Michael, take a nice sharp knife.

0:19:49 > 0:19:50Always mint with lamb, eh?

0:19:50 > 0:19:52But the flavours really work.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55Now, we're just going to let it back with a little touch,

0:19:55 > 0:19:57just a little touch of vinegar.

0:19:57 > 0:20:00- OK?- Yeah.- So you've got the vinegar, the sugar, salt,

0:20:00 > 0:20:02the lovely sour cream all working together,

0:20:02 > 0:20:05- and now you can see where that comes from - creamed cucumber.- Yeah.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08You'd think the Shah would have been really pleased with all this,

0:20:08 > 0:20:12but apparently he left the dinner in a real huff.

0:20:12 > 0:20:15- Why's that?- Well, he had wanted, and thought he was going to get,

0:20:15 > 0:20:17the Order of the Garter.

0:20:17 > 0:20:21- Right.- But apparently King Edward decided he shouldn't have it,

0:20:21 > 0:20:23because it shouldn't be given to somebody who wasn't a Christian.

0:20:23 > 0:20:27So instead King Edward gave him a jewelled picture of himself.

0:20:27 > 0:20:31- How's that?- Right. OK. Yeah.- That's, you know, I thought only celebrity

0:20:31 > 0:20:34chefs were that conceited. THEY LAUGH

0:20:34 > 0:20:36Oh, we're far more needy.

0:20:36 > 0:20:38- Come on, what's...- Right, ready? - Yep.

0:20:38 > 0:20:39Wahey!

0:20:39 > 0:20:42- So now you can see that wonderful smokiness happening.- God!

0:20:42 > 0:20:45- Just come over...- Like something out of Doctor Who, this, isn't it?

0:20:45 > 0:20:47It is, isn't it? So that, over like so.

0:20:47 > 0:20:49- OK?- Oh, you can smell the hay.

0:20:49 > 0:20:51- Yeah.- Yeah.- Right, next...

0:20:51 > 0:20:53And how long do you think you need to cook that?

0:20:53 > 0:20:55For me, nice... Cos that's...

0:20:55 > 0:20:58The temperature's come down. You're smoking gently, 20-25 minutes, OK?

0:20:58 > 0:21:01- OK.- Until you get to this.- Oh!

0:21:01 > 0:21:02- All right?- Oh!

0:21:02 > 0:21:05- Now, if you turn those over... - Mm-hmm.- ..all this cooking juice

0:21:05 > 0:21:08- is beautiful.- Mmm-hmm.- Just touch like that, OK?- What are you looking

0:21:08 > 0:21:09for when you poke it, then, with your finger?

0:21:09 > 0:21:12Just kind of, like, just so it just, it gives. It's not, you're

0:21:12 > 0:21:13not, kind of, it's not soft.

0:21:13 > 0:21:16- No.- It's got that little bit of give, and then it comes back up to

0:21:16 > 0:21:19- you, all right?- Yeah.- So we'll take our lamb rump like that.

0:21:20 > 0:21:22OK? First of all, we get our lovely cucumber...

0:21:24 > 0:21:25..nice, in the middle like that.

0:21:25 > 0:21:27- Yeah.- OK.

0:21:27 > 0:21:32Like so. Over here, I've got some beautiful salsa verde.

0:21:32 > 0:21:36The reason it goes so well with lamb is because you've got mint, parsley,

0:21:36 > 0:21:38basil, all go well with lamb.

0:21:38 > 0:21:42- Capers, shallot, gherkins and some chopped anchovy.- Oh!

0:21:42 > 0:21:45- OK, we're going to carve our lamb, straight in.- Now, how thick a cut

0:21:45 > 0:21:47- are you doing? Oh, I say.- Just like that.- Look at that.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49Now that is what you're looking for.

0:21:49 > 0:21:51- You see how you've got that pinkness?- Yeah.

0:21:51 > 0:21:53Now we're just going to turn it over, put that onto the plate.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58- Wow.- Now, remember, we need to get the seasoning on this.

0:21:58 > 0:22:00See, all the time, thinking about seasoning,

0:22:00 > 0:22:02going through the plate like so.

0:22:02 > 0:22:06- Mmm-hmm.- Another slice, and then you've got that lovely oil.

0:22:06 > 0:22:07And it's just...

0:22:07 > 0:22:10- Have a smell. All right?- Gosh, it's really powerful, isn't it?- It is.

0:22:10 > 0:22:13- OK?- Sharp and powerful.- Then just a little bit on top of the lamb,

0:22:13 > 0:22:15- like that.- Yeah.

0:22:15 > 0:22:18- That looks good.- And there you have hay-smoked lamb rump,

0:22:18 > 0:22:20creamed cucumber and salsa verde.

0:22:20 > 0:22:23Do you know, I'd rather have that than the Order of the Garter?

0:22:23 > 0:22:24Thank you.

0:22:26 > 0:22:28- Come on, let's have a go at it. - Right, ready?- Yeah.

0:22:28 > 0:22:30- Here we are. Knife and fork. - Get stuck in, Michael.

0:22:30 > 0:22:32No, you first, you first.

0:22:32 > 0:22:33You did it.

0:22:37 > 0:22:39I'm going to have a bit of this bit.

0:22:39 > 0:22:40Just...

0:22:41 > 0:22:43..it has everything.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46Wait till you... That lamb just melts.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48- I'm interested to see...- And that...

0:22:48 > 0:22:49..whether the hay really comes across.

0:22:49 > 0:22:51I honestly think you are going to love this.

0:22:53 > 0:22:54- Mmm!- Isn't it?

0:22:54 > 0:22:58It just all goes together. You've got smokiness of the hay,

0:22:58 > 0:23:02that freshness of the cucumber, cos the lamb's quite rich, with the fat.

0:23:02 > 0:23:04The Shah was in a huff, but I'm in heaven.

0:23:04 > 0:23:05PAUL LAUGHS

0:23:05 > 0:23:07He wouldn't have been in a huff if I was there.

0:23:10 > 0:23:12A succulent, smoky dish, sure

0:23:12 > 0:23:15to impress even the grumpiest of guests.

0:23:21 > 0:23:24The Shah eventually got his Garter,

0:23:24 > 0:23:29an honour originally bestowed to knights returning from the Crusades.

0:23:29 > 0:23:32Military ceremony is a big part of royal life,

0:23:32 > 0:23:36and Princes William and Harry have both served in the Armed Forces.

0:23:36 > 0:23:39Sandhurst chef Rob Kennedy knows what it's like

0:23:39 > 0:23:41to cater for a royal visitor.

0:23:43 > 0:23:46Rob is no stranger to having to create impressive meals for

0:23:46 > 0:23:49high-profile visitors, including crowned heads of Britain

0:23:49 > 0:23:50and other nations.

0:23:52 > 0:23:55And when one of the officer cadets is grandson of the Queen,

0:23:55 > 0:23:59even a more modest occasion can turn into a royal banquet.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01For 15 years I've been at Sandhurst,

0:24:01 > 0:24:04and to be an exec chef here you have to be passionate,

0:24:04 > 0:24:05you have to be loyal,

0:24:05 > 0:24:09and I've had the opportunity to cook for the royal family five times

0:24:09 > 0:24:10whilst being here at Sandhurst.

0:24:12 > 0:24:14In November 2005,

0:24:14 > 0:24:17Rob cooked a lavish dinner for Prince Harry and his fellow cadets

0:24:17 > 0:24:21at the halfway stage of their officer training course.

0:24:21 > 0:24:24We're in New College dining room at the moment, where we feed the inters

0:24:24 > 0:24:27and the senior cadets, and actually, on the dinner night,

0:24:27 > 0:24:31Prince Harry would have sat here with Charles and Camilla.

0:24:31 > 0:24:33So this is where it would all have happened.

0:24:33 > 0:24:38Harry went on to graduate from the Royal Military Academy in April 2006

0:24:38 > 0:24:40as Second Lieutenant,

0:24:40 > 0:24:43and two years later was promoted to First Lieutenant.

0:24:44 > 0:24:48So, I'm going to be cooking Prince Harry's guest dinner, and it's going

0:24:48 > 0:24:50to be Suffolk chicken stuffed with wild mushrooms.

0:24:52 > 0:24:56The first stage is to make a mousse from a pre-prepared chicken breast.

0:24:56 > 0:25:00And we're now going to make it creamy

0:25:00 > 0:25:02just by adding a little splash of cream.

0:25:06 > 0:25:10The chicken mousse is then popped in the fridge to chill for 15 minutes

0:25:10 > 0:25:12before Rob can add the mushrooms.

0:25:13 > 0:25:16Prince Charles and Camilla attended...

0:25:17 > 0:25:19..Prince Harry's dinner,

0:25:19 > 0:25:23and here I have the actual accompanied dinner night from that event,

0:25:23 > 0:25:27and if you actually open the menu you can see there, "Supreme of

0:25:27 > 0:25:30"chicken, Parisian potatoes." Makes it sound even posher.

0:25:30 > 0:25:34It's opportunity for the officer cadets, you know, to invite their

0:25:34 > 0:25:38family members and have a fantastic evening together.

0:25:38 > 0:25:41To prepare the mushrooms, we're just going to take...

0:25:42 > 0:25:43..just a small handful.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46So we've got the lovely girolles...

0:25:46 > 0:25:49and some portobellos, and on this fab tray of ingredients

0:25:49 > 0:25:51just some curly parsley.

0:25:51 > 0:25:54And this is just to add a little bit of colour so it's not too beige.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56It's got some lovely green colours going through it as well.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01We're actually going to add some butter to this to make

0:26:01 > 0:26:02it really rich as well.

0:26:02 > 0:26:07Some cep powder onto the mushrooms and parsley.

0:26:07 > 0:26:09It brings the whole dish together.

0:26:10 > 0:26:12Give that a fold in.

0:26:12 > 0:26:16The mushrooms are cooled before being added to the mousse mix.

0:26:16 > 0:26:19It can then be piped into a chicken breast.

0:26:19 > 0:26:20This little bit of skin here

0:26:20 > 0:26:23just kind of tucks itself over

0:26:23 > 0:26:25and that's ready now to pop into a frying pan.

0:26:27 > 0:26:30The pan is seasoned with garlic and thyme

0:26:30 > 0:26:31before the chicken breast is sealed.

0:26:34 > 0:26:36Just a little bit more oil.

0:26:39 > 0:26:42Getting that nice colour on the chicken is what you want.

0:26:42 > 0:26:47Now it's ready to go in the oven for 12 minutes at 180 degrees.

0:26:47 > 0:26:49Timings have to be exact,

0:26:49 > 0:26:52and Rob understands the pressures of cooking for the royals.

0:26:53 > 0:26:58Everything from start to finish has to be correct and to perfection.

0:26:58 > 0:27:02You realise what an honour it is to have, you know, food in front of you

0:27:02 > 0:27:05that you love to cook, but, more importantly,

0:27:05 > 0:27:07who are you serving for? You know,

0:27:07 > 0:27:11it's great for any chef's journey

0:27:11 > 0:27:12and it's definitely been great for me.

0:27:14 > 0:27:17So we've got some carrots and some parsnips just roasted natural,

0:27:17 > 0:27:21again some fresh thyme from the academy grounds, a little,

0:27:21 > 0:27:22tiny bit of garlic.

0:27:24 > 0:27:26It is not even cooked yet but it looks delicious to eat.

0:27:26 > 0:27:29So we need to give that, again, in the oven,

0:27:29 > 0:27:31around about 15 minutes.

0:27:34 > 0:27:35We need something else that's sticky.

0:27:35 > 0:27:37That's our marble potatoes.

0:27:37 > 0:27:39Now, this is a favourite

0:27:39 > 0:27:42across the whole of the military since I've been

0:27:42 > 0:27:45in the business, and they're little balls of potatoes that I roast in

0:27:45 > 0:27:49toasted sesame oil and then finish with sticky Marmite glaze.

0:27:49 > 0:27:51They do say you love it or hate it,

0:27:51 > 0:27:53but with this one you definitely love it.

0:27:53 > 0:27:56And for each dish we usually do about ten potatoes.

0:27:57 > 0:28:01It's not me that has to do this particular job for 300 people.

0:28:01 > 0:28:03That's known as pulling rank.

0:28:03 > 0:28:06Now we've got here some toasted sesame oil.

0:28:06 > 0:28:09You just pop a little bit into the pan and then you pop your potatoes

0:28:09 > 0:28:11straight in. Let's add some butter

0:28:11 > 0:28:14and a nice spoonful of our yeast extract.

0:28:15 > 0:28:19If you look at that, absolutely delicious.

0:28:19 > 0:28:21We'll pop these into an oven just for ten minutes.

0:28:23 > 0:28:26Just enough time to cook the gravy before it's ready to serve.

0:28:27 > 0:28:29When I cook I like to cook from the heart.

0:28:29 > 0:28:31I'm a very passionate person.

0:28:32 > 0:28:36And, you know, it's a great honour to cook for all the royals.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51What do you think it's like for a professional chef cooking for

0:28:51 > 0:28:52the royal family?

0:28:52 > 0:28:55Something like that, it's going to be hugely intimidating.

0:28:55 > 0:28:56You're going to want to get it right.

0:28:56 > 0:28:59I mean, our job is quite high pressured as it is.

0:28:59 > 0:29:01Sometimes the royals live like the rest of us,

0:29:01 > 0:29:02go out to dinner in the way we would.

0:29:02 > 0:29:06- Yeah.- I think in 2016 the Queen and Prince Philip dropped in at a very

0:29:06 > 0:29:09old pub in Edinburgh called the Sheep Heid in the...

0:29:09 > 0:29:11- The Sheep Heid!- The Sheep Heid!

0:29:11 > 0:29:13In Duddingston.

0:29:13 > 0:29:15I mean, the interesting thing is, that particular pub,

0:29:15 > 0:29:19the Sheep Heid, Mary Queen of Scots was supposed to go there

0:29:19 > 0:29:22- occasionally...- Yeah.- ..in the 16th century, so, extraordinary that

0:29:22 > 0:29:25400 years later the reigning monarch and her husband should go.

0:29:25 > 0:29:27- Yeah.- The way they travel around's changed quite a bit, though,

0:29:27 > 0:29:30- hasn't it? I mean, the Royal Yacht Britannia...- Yeah.- ..that was

0:29:30 > 0:29:32decommissioned in 1997

0:29:32 > 0:29:35and now some of the royals go on commercial airlines rather than

0:29:35 > 0:29:38- the Royal flight.- Right.

0:29:38 > 0:29:41Do they have to wait for their luggage at the carousel like we do?

0:29:41 > 0:29:42Somehow I don't think so.

0:29:43 > 0:29:46One thing that hasn't changed is the Royal Train,

0:29:46 > 0:29:49which is still in use after more than 150 years,

0:29:49 > 0:29:52since Queen Victoria became the first monarch

0:29:52 > 0:29:54to travel by train in 1842.

0:29:57 > 0:30:00Dr Annie Gray went to York to find out more.

0:30:02 > 0:30:05On the 13th of June 1842,

0:30:05 > 0:30:08history was made when the young Queen Victoria

0:30:08 > 0:30:11climbed aboard a train and set off in style.

0:30:11 > 0:30:14The locomotive was called Phlegethon,

0:30:14 > 0:30:16the driver Daniel Gooch

0:30:16 > 0:30:22and the engineer was none other than Isambard Kingdom Brunel himself.

0:30:22 > 0:30:25The Queen had been persuaded to try train travel by her husband,

0:30:25 > 0:30:29Prince Albert, a champion of new technology and a man who was well

0:30:29 > 0:30:31used to travelling by train.

0:30:31 > 0:30:35That first journey was from Slough to London Paddington and it took 25

0:30:35 > 0:30:38minutes, but it proved to be the first of many

0:30:38 > 0:30:42because the Queen was bitten by the train travelling bug and thereafter

0:30:42 > 0:30:46they went all over the place from Osborne to Balmoral and everywhere

0:30:46 > 0:30:48in between.

0:30:48 > 0:30:52The National Railway Museum in York is home to six royal carriages

0:30:52 > 0:30:54including Victoria's.

0:30:54 > 0:30:58We've been given privileged access to them and it's all aboard with

0:30:58 > 0:31:00curator Anthony Coulls.

0:31:02 > 0:31:04This is just incredible.

0:31:04 > 0:31:05It's fabulous, isn't it?

0:31:05 > 0:31:07- This... - SHE LAUGHS

0:31:07 > 0:31:10I'm almost speechless. Tell me, where are we, exactly?

0:31:10 > 0:31:14We are standing in the day saloon of Queen Victoria's carriage,

0:31:14 > 0:31:17built for her by the London and North Western Railway

0:31:17 > 0:31:18in the late 1860s.

0:31:18 > 0:31:22This deep, beautiful blue and the gold and the royal crests on there.

0:31:22 > 0:31:26- You get a real sense of a Queen at home here?- Mm. Mm.

0:31:26 > 0:31:28There's nowhere to eat on here.

0:31:28 > 0:31:30I know when she travelled on the Continent she did eat on board

0:31:30 > 0:31:33the train, on dining cars, but it was a bit different in England,

0:31:33 > 0:31:37- wasn't it?- She chose not to dine on the railway, on the move,

0:31:37 > 0:31:39unless there were really exceptional circumstances.

0:31:39 > 0:31:42- But she did stop, didn't she, at the station hotel...- She did, yeah.

0:31:42 > 0:31:44- ..several times.- Yeah. And to make sure the way was clear,

0:31:44 > 0:31:47they actually sent another locomotive in front called the pilot

0:31:47 > 0:31:50engine, which had a special code of lamps on the front of the engine

0:31:50 > 0:31:52that said to the signalman and the station people

0:31:52 > 0:31:54the next train through is the Royal Train,

0:31:54 > 0:31:57and all the trains around it are halted.

0:31:59 > 0:32:03The museum is also home to a coach built for Edward VII.

0:32:03 > 0:32:06Victoria's heir was renowned for his infidelities, gambling,

0:32:06 > 0:32:10partying and eating to excess.

0:32:10 > 0:32:12He loved his food so much he was nicknamed Tum-Tum.

0:32:14 > 0:32:16This is completely different, isn't it?

0:32:16 > 0:32:19It's lighter, it's airier, it's wider.

0:32:19 > 0:32:21- Feels much more masculine as well with the smoking room.- It does.

0:32:21 > 0:32:24That's very much so, with the dark wood in there.

0:32:24 > 0:32:27You can imagine the train parked up for the night somewhere and...

0:32:27 > 0:32:29- Smoke everywhere and people kind of...- That's it, yes.

0:32:29 > 0:32:32- ..coming out of it going, "Goodness me."- Port and cards.

0:32:32 > 0:32:35By this point in time, dining cars had come in, hadn't they?

0:32:35 > 0:32:39They had dining cars for the royal party, then it had kitchen cars.

0:32:39 > 0:32:41And what kind of thing did they eat? I mean, I know they ate quail

0:32:41 > 0:32:44because there's an incident where one of them ends up in

0:32:44 > 0:32:46- Queen Alexandra's hair.- Yes. - THEY LAUGH

0:32:46 > 0:32:49Yes, it's one of those career-limiting actions,

0:32:49 > 0:32:50- really, isn't it?- Yeah.

0:32:50 > 0:32:53But apart from the quail,

0:32:53 > 0:32:54what kind of things did they eat?

0:32:54 > 0:32:56You're looking at anything from a cold collation

0:32:56 > 0:33:00to a full roast dinner. And when you consider that it's being created at

0:33:00 > 0:33:0360, 70mph in something not

0:33:03 > 0:33:05much bigger than a couple of phone boxes glued together

0:33:05 > 0:33:08and it's on the move, swaying all over the place,

0:33:08 > 0:33:11it's nothing short of a miracle that each meal made it to the plate and

0:33:11 > 0:33:12not to the lap.

0:33:17 > 0:33:19Edward's carriage was used by the royals

0:33:19 > 0:33:21all the way up until the 1930s.

0:33:21 > 0:33:25But in 1939, with the outbreak of World War II,

0:33:25 > 0:33:27it was time to ditch wooden carriages

0:33:27 > 0:33:29in favour of something safer.

0:33:29 > 0:33:32In 1941, George VI's new train

0:33:32 > 0:33:35came with the latest in homeland security.

0:33:36 > 0:33:39This is completely different.

0:33:39 > 0:33:42It is so different to what went before.

0:33:42 > 0:33:46It's armour-plated, the body panels are twin-skinned.

0:33:46 > 0:33:49It's got sealed windows, it's got air conditioning.

0:33:49 > 0:33:52And George was a man who, like so many monarchs actually,

0:33:52 > 0:33:54had a reputation for quite liking plain food.

0:33:54 > 0:33:57- Yes, yes.- He's reputed to have picked up a taste for marmalade,

0:33:57 > 0:34:00- isn't he, from the train?- Then asked for it thereafter.- Yeah.

0:34:00 > 0:34:02- Not for, like, forever but... - No. Thin-cut marmalade.

0:34:02 > 0:34:04- Thin-cut marmalade. - Can't think of anything worse!

0:34:04 > 0:34:07- Why would you want thin-cut marmalade?- Very insipid, but

0:34:07 > 0:34:09there we are, if it's good enough for the King.

0:34:09 > 0:34:11I feel really privileged to have been able to come inside these

0:34:11 > 0:34:14coaches and see them. I've been here many times and peered through

0:34:14 > 0:34:17the windows looking inside, but you really do get a sense of

0:34:17 > 0:34:19the personality of the monarchs behind them when you're standing

0:34:19 > 0:34:23- in them.- You do, yes.- And knowing that George VI was involved here

0:34:23 > 0:34:26with the decor and you really feel the personalities of the monarchs

0:34:26 > 0:34:30themselves are stamped on the coaches. And I do think it's just...

0:34:30 > 0:34:32There's something really rather magical about it.

0:34:32 > 0:34:35It's where they stood, it's where they ate,

0:34:35 > 0:34:36it's where they lived, where they slept,

0:34:36 > 0:34:39and you are walking in history.

0:34:39 > 0:34:42You can almost taste the toast, can't you?

0:34:43 > 0:34:44- With the marmalade.- Yes.

0:34:58 > 0:34:59Before trains,

0:34:59 > 0:35:02it must have taken such a long time to get around.

0:35:02 > 0:35:07Paul, the dish you're going to do is a dish that one of our kings found

0:35:07 > 0:35:11when he was travelling round the country in a coach drawn by horses.

0:35:11 > 0:35:13- What was it?- Portland pudding.

0:35:13 > 0:35:16Named after the Portland Arms in Dorset.

0:35:16 > 0:35:21- Right, OK.- And King George III was a regular visitor and every time he

0:35:21 > 0:35:24- went to this particular pub, hotel, inn, whatever...- Yeah.

0:35:24 > 0:35:26..he'd have this pudding.

0:35:26 > 0:35:30What it is is a steamed sponge pudding loaded with orange.

0:35:30 > 0:35:33- So straightaway we're going to go into the pan here, Michael...- Yep.

0:35:33 > 0:35:34..and we're going to make a caramel.

0:35:34 > 0:35:37Rather a nice story about Portland pudding and George III.

0:35:37 > 0:35:40George III was the one they called Mad King George...

0:35:40 > 0:35:44- Yeah.- ..because from 1788 he had bouts of what they thought was

0:35:44 > 0:35:48- madness...- Right.- ..but we now think is a disorder called porphyria.

0:35:48 > 0:35:50- Right.- But anyway, they thought saltwater would be good for him

0:35:50 > 0:35:52and they sent him down to Weymouth.

0:35:52 > 0:35:54There's a note in a wonderful old magazine called The

0:35:54 > 0:35:58Penny Magazine written after George had died, in fact, saying,

0:35:58 > 0:36:02"George III during his visits to Weymouth had several times made

0:36:02 > 0:36:04"a tour of the Isle of Portland and on those occasions he made

0:36:04 > 0:36:07"the Portland Arms his headquarters and he used to finish his day

0:36:07 > 0:36:08"by dining at the house.

0:36:08 > 0:36:12"The then landlady had a recipe for making a certain famous Portland

0:36:12 > 0:36:16"pudding and the King never failed to order the pudding in honour

0:36:16 > 0:36:18"of the island." What do you think about?

0:36:18 > 0:36:20- Aw, fantastic.- Yeah. - Isn't that brilliant?

0:36:20 > 0:36:23Now, we keep moving it, OK, because that is very, very hot.

0:36:23 > 0:36:26- Yeah.- At the moment, that's about 150 degrees.

0:36:26 > 0:36:28- Wow. - OK? And it will carry on cooking,

0:36:28 > 0:36:31- so pull it off the heat.- Yeah. - OK, and now we add in our butter.

0:36:31 > 0:36:34- A bit in at a time.- Yep.

0:36:34 > 0:36:36And what we're making here, Michael, we want to go away from the heat.

0:36:36 > 0:36:39- It's butterscotch. - Yeah, butterscotch, exactly.- Yeah.

0:36:39 > 0:36:42OK. So we keep adding in our butter.

0:36:42 > 0:36:43This is rich stuff, isn't it?

0:36:43 > 0:36:45Very, very rich.

0:36:45 > 0:36:48Back on the heat. So you see now our butter's just basically emulsified

0:36:48 > 0:36:50all the way into this sauce.

0:36:50 > 0:36:53- Already smells incredible. - Mm. Mm. Mm.

0:36:53 > 0:36:54Next, orange juice.

0:36:54 > 0:36:57- Yeah.- Turn our heat back up. - Yeah.- Here we go.

0:36:57 > 0:36:58In with our orange juice.

0:36:58 > 0:37:00It really sizzled in there, didn't it?

0:37:00 > 0:37:04- Gosh, that's hot.- Now, again, off.

0:37:04 > 0:37:05- Don't you wave that thing at me.- OK?

0:37:05 > 0:37:08THEY LAUGH

0:37:08 > 0:37:11- What's that?- Now we're going to cool it down with our cream.

0:37:11 > 0:37:15- There you go.- So now we go back on the heat.- Yeah.- OK? And now we're

0:37:15 > 0:37:17going to get some lovely flavour in there, OK...

0:37:17 > 0:37:20- Yeah. - ..from these beautiful oranges.

0:37:20 > 0:37:23By zesting, we're releasing the oils of the orange right on the outside,

0:37:23 > 0:37:25absolutely tonnes of flavour in these skins

0:37:25 > 0:37:27and we just want the outside. We don't want to go right down.

0:37:27 > 0:37:30- Yeah, you don't want to go through to the pith.- Very bitter.

0:37:30 > 0:37:33So we just pull off the heat. You can smell the butter and the orange

0:37:33 > 0:37:35- and the sugar.- Mm! Yep, yep.- OK.

0:37:35 > 0:37:38Like that, we're going to pour in our Grand Marnier.

0:37:38 > 0:37:41Just like that. So we're just burning the alcohol off like so.

0:37:41 > 0:37:45MICHAEL CHUCKLES Shame, but there you go.

0:37:45 > 0:37:48Is this Suzette?

0:37:48 > 0:37:50- As in Crepes Suzette.- Exactly.

0:37:50 > 0:37:55Crepes Suzette was invented by accident for Edward VII.

0:37:55 > 0:37:57Actually, he was Prince of Wales then and, you know, well,

0:37:57 > 0:38:00he liked a lot gambling and all the rest of it and he's in

0:38:00 > 0:38:03- the Cafe de Paris in Monte Carlo... - Yes. Yeah.- ..with a group of

0:38:03 > 0:38:07friends and they're having this wonderful dessert.

0:38:07 > 0:38:10A chef called Charpentier, who was a pupil of Escoffier, comes in with

0:38:10 > 0:38:15the orange sauce and accidentally the whole thing goes up in flames.

0:38:15 > 0:38:17- Right.- And everybody's completely shocked,

0:38:17 > 0:38:18but then when they taste it,

0:38:18 > 0:38:20they think, "Oh, well, that's really rather nice."

0:38:20 > 0:38:23That's actually quite nice.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26And Edward was asked, "What should its name be?"

0:38:26 > 0:38:30And actually one of his guests at the table was a little girl who was

0:38:30 > 0:38:33- eight years old who was called Suzette.- Right.- And he said,

0:38:33 > 0:38:36- "We'll call it Crepes Suzette." - And that's where the name came from.

0:38:36 > 0:38:38- And that's what it's been ever since.- Yeah.

0:38:38 > 0:38:39And that's what we're having. Not the crepe,

0:38:39 > 0:38:41but sort of sauce Suzette.

0:38:41 > 0:38:44- Now, what are you doing here? - Right. So what I've got in this bowl

0:38:44 > 0:38:47is butter and sugar, which I'm just creaming together like so.

0:38:47 > 0:38:50- Yeah.- I'm just going to add a pinch of salt, all right? Plain flour.

0:38:50 > 0:38:53Now we're just going to add a little splash of milk.

0:38:53 > 0:38:56It just loosens the mix so we can start to make the batter.

0:38:56 > 0:38:58- Yeah.- I mean, there's something nice about doing it by hand.

0:38:58 > 0:39:00- Four eggs in.- Yeah.- OK?

0:39:00 > 0:39:03And now we continue to fold this in.

0:39:03 > 0:39:07So, before we add in our last final ingredients to our lovely cake

0:39:07 > 0:39:09batter, we're just going to get this saucepan on,

0:39:09 > 0:39:12which has just got some water in the bottom and a plate and that's going

0:39:12 > 0:39:13to steam our pudding.

0:39:16 > 0:39:20- OK.- Yeah.- Citrus candied peel.

0:39:20 > 0:39:21- Can I try some?- Yeah, go for it.

0:39:24 > 0:39:27- Almost like little boiled sweets. - Mm, it's nice.- Yeah.- Yeah, but, mm,

0:39:27 > 0:39:30no, it's got more concentrated flavour than that.

0:39:30 > 0:39:34More zest, so there's just that lovely orange all the way through.

0:39:34 > 0:39:38- Right...- Oh, you've got... Ah.- Now we're going to go back to our sauce

0:39:38 > 0:39:41and what we're going to do, so almost a bit like a creme caramel.

0:39:41 > 0:39:45Now, this is the bowl that you've lined with butter.

0:39:45 > 0:39:48- Literally just buttered it round the outside, that's all.- Yeah.

0:39:48 > 0:39:51- Now we take our cake batter.- Mm-hm. - Move our bowl over to here.

0:39:51 > 0:39:56And like so, just gently, don't splash the mix up, OK?

0:39:56 > 0:39:58- So you're rolling it out... - Rolling it out.- ..over the sauce.

0:39:58 > 0:40:01Absolutely, over the sauce. And what will happen as well,

0:40:01 > 0:40:05it'll come up the sides and just be absolutely delicious all over.

0:40:05 > 0:40:09Lovely and glazed, OK? Get all of that lovely cake batter in there.

0:40:09 > 0:40:11- You're not going to waste any, are you?- No.

0:40:11 > 0:40:12If you could give me a hand here?

0:40:12 > 0:40:15- Yeah.- I've got tinfoil, parchment, butter,

0:40:15 > 0:40:17cos that sponge is going to rise right up.

0:40:17 > 0:40:19- OK.- OK?- You're going to put that on the top.

0:40:19 > 0:40:22Over the top and then right the way around,

0:40:22 > 0:40:24because we want to hold that heat in, but also as well,

0:40:24 > 0:40:26can you see we've got a pleat in the middle?

0:40:26 > 0:40:29- Oh, yeah, you've got a fold-over. - It's an old, old technique

0:40:29 > 0:40:33- and the reason you do that is because as that pudding rises...- Mm.

0:40:33 > 0:40:35- ..it won't tear. - It's got a bit of expansion.

0:40:35 > 0:40:37- Expansion, exactly.- Yep. Yep.

0:40:37 > 0:40:39So if you get our string, like so.

0:40:40 > 0:40:42- Nice and tight. If you could just give me a hand...- Yeah, what can

0:40:42 > 0:40:45- I do?- ..with holding it. Like so. Just holding it.- There we go.

0:40:45 > 0:40:46- That's it.- Absolutely.

0:40:46 > 0:40:48- Thank you very much.- No problem. - And then we just...

0:40:48 > 0:40:50I'm indispensable, really.

0:40:50 > 0:40:53I don't know how you manage in that restaurant kitchen

0:40:53 > 0:40:54- without me.- Without you? - THEY CHUCKLE

0:40:54 > 0:40:56Yeah.

0:40:56 > 0:40:59- There we go.- Right, so now we've got our steaming water.- Yeah.- OK?

0:40:59 > 0:41:03- Just be very, very careful.- OK. - And then very gently...

0:41:03 > 0:41:06- Oh, mind your hands.- ..lowering your... Yeah, watch your hands on

0:41:06 > 0:41:08the side of the pan. Lower it in.

0:41:08 > 0:41:14- OK. Lid back on...- Yeah. - ..and steam for an hour and a half.

0:41:14 > 0:41:17Luckily, we don't need to wait an hour and a half.

0:41:17 > 0:41:19- Thank goodness for that. - Thank goodness.

0:41:19 > 0:41:23Yeah, absolutely. We have got one we've done earlier.

0:41:23 > 0:41:26- Take our string off from the outside.- Mm-hm.

0:41:26 > 0:41:27Like this.

0:41:27 > 0:41:29It's exciting, this bit, isn't it?

0:41:29 > 0:41:30- Look at that.- Oh, yeah.

0:41:30 > 0:41:33Now, just with a knife, just go round the edge

0:41:33 > 0:41:35just so nothing's caught.

0:41:35 > 0:41:37- OK? Plate on, OK?- Yeah. MICHAEL CHUCKLES

0:41:37 > 0:41:40- One, two, three, over... - Woo!- ..like so.

0:41:42 > 0:41:44- Down on the table.- Yep.- All right.

0:41:44 > 0:41:48Now, again, just a little kind of belt and braces, all right,

0:41:48 > 0:41:49just round the top.

0:41:49 > 0:41:51And abracadabra.

0:41:51 > 0:41:54Abra... Yeah. Do you know what, yes, abracadabra as well, all right?

0:41:54 > 0:41:56And hopefully...

0:42:00 > 0:42:02You had me worried for a minute then.

0:42:02 > 0:42:05THEY LAUGH Oh, very, very nice.

0:42:05 > 0:42:09- Very, very nice.- Now with some of that lovely, beautiful sauce.

0:42:09 > 0:42:11- Are you going to put it over the top or round the side?- Absolutely.

0:42:11 > 0:42:15No, no, we're going to go straight over the top. And don't be shy.

0:42:15 > 0:42:17- Lots of it.- Do not be shy.

0:42:17 > 0:42:20Lots of it, OK, cos it'll just soak into that sponge.

0:42:20 > 0:42:22- I can smell the orange.- Like so.

0:42:22 > 0:42:23Oh, it's fabulous.

0:42:23 > 0:42:28Mm. You can just imagine George III sitting in the Portland Arms

0:42:28 > 0:42:31with his Portland Pudding that he'd probably been looking forward

0:42:31 > 0:42:34- to for weeks. - I just hope I did him proud.

0:42:41 > 0:42:43- Are you going to just tuck into it? - Go for it, straight in. No plates.

0:42:43 > 0:42:46Aw, look at the way...

0:42:46 > 0:42:47I'll just get some of the sauce.

0:42:47 > 0:42:49- Gorgeous how moist that is.- Yeah.

0:42:49 > 0:42:54- Ooh, yeah.- And you see how that sauce glaze is, like, baked in all

0:42:54 > 0:42:55to the side and caramelised it.

0:42:55 > 0:42:59- All that different kind of orange... - Mm.- ..hitting at the same time.

0:42:59 > 0:43:01And that sponge is just incredible.

0:43:01 > 0:43:04Aw, it's brilliant. I can see what he liked about it.

0:43:04 > 0:43:06You know,

0:43:06 > 0:43:09they called him Mad King George but, I tell you what,

0:43:09 > 0:43:11he knew a thing or two about puddings.

0:43:11 > 0:43:13- He certainly did. - MICHAEL LAUGHS

0:43:13 > 0:43:16- Yeah.- Join us next time for more royal recipes.