Spice

Download Subtitles

Transcript

0:00:02 > 0:00:04CLASSICAL MUSIC PLAYS

0:00:04 > 0:00:06Hello, I'm Michael Buerk.

0:00:06 > 0:00:10Welcome to a brand-new series of Royal Recipes.

0:00:10 > 0:00:13This time, we're at Westonbirt House,

0:00:13 > 0:00:14formerly a grand country house,

0:00:14 > 0:00:16now a boarding school,

0:00:16 > 0:00:20which has played host to royal visitors for over 100 years.

0:00:21 > 0:00:25In this series, we're delving even further back in time to reveal over

0:00:25 > 0:00:28600 years of royal food heritage.

0:00:28 > 0:00:30You play Anne Boleyn... SHE LAUGHS

0:00:30 > 0:00:33..and I will play Henry VIII.

0:00:33 > 0:00:36And we've been busy unlocking the secret of Britain's great food

0:00:36 > 0:00:40archives, discovering rare and unseen recipes that have been

0:00:40 > 0:00:42royal favourites through the ages.

0:00:43 > 0:00:46From the earliest royal cookbook in 1390...

0:00:46 > 0:00:51It's so precious, so special, that I'm not allowed to touch it.

0:00:51 > 0:00:53..to Tudor treats from the court of Henry VIII.

0:00:53 > 0:00:55- I can't wait for this. - LAUGHTER

0:00:55 > 0:00:57One, two, three.

0:00:59 > 0:01:02We'll be exploring the great culinary traditions enjoyed by

0:01:02 > 0:01:05the royal family, from the grand to the ground-breaking,

0:01:05 > 0:01:08as well as the surprisingly simple...

0:01:08 > 0:01:10I did think that was going to be a disaster.

0:01:10 > 0:01:12LAUGHTER

0:01:12 > 0:01:13Oooh!

0:01:13 > 0:01:14LAUGHTER

0:01:14 > 0:01:18..as we hear from a host of royal chefs.

0:01:18 > 0:01:21Prince Philip will walk past or pop his head in, "What's for dinner,

0:01:21 > 0:01:23"what are we having?" Oh, yeah.

0:01:23 > 0:01:25It's not just a normal kitchen.

0:01:25 > 0:01:29And meet the people who provide for the royal table.

0:01:29 > 0:01:32If it's OK for the Queen, it's OK for everyone.

0:01:32 > 0:01:34Welcome to Royal Recipes.

0:01:41 > 0:01:45Today, we're looking at how the spice trade transformed the flavour

0:01:45 > 0:01:47of royal cuisine in this country,

0:01:47 > 0:01:51and how those royal flavours influenced everyday cookery

0:01:51 > 0:01:53for the rest of us.

0:01:55 > 0:01:57Coming up...

0:01:57 > 0:02:02executive chef Anna Haugh sets the Royal Recipes kitchen alight

0:02:02 > 0:02:04with a spicy dessert. Ooh!

0:02:04 > 0:02:06HE LAUGHS

0:02:06 > 0:02:10Social historian Dr Polly Russell discovers how rare spices brought

0:02:10 > 0:02:14flavour and fortune to the Crown.

0:02:14 > 0:02:18Elizabeth's share of this voyage allowed her to completely pay off

0:02:18 > 0:02:19her national debt.

0:02:20 > 0:02:24And chef Dipna Anand recreates a tandoori treat that was

0:02:24 > 0:02:26a highlight of a royal visit.

0:02:28 > 0:02:30Smells and looks yummy.

0:02:33 > 0:02:37But, first, we're returning to the reign of King George V,

0:02:37 > 0:02:39to sample a favourite curry recipe.

0:02:43 > 0:02:45I'm here in the Royal Recipes kitchen

0:02:45 > 0:02:47with executive chef Anna Haugh.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49Spicy is the keynote.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51What are you going to do that's spicy?

0:02:51 > 0:02:54Well, I'm going to do my version of Bombay duck curry.

0:02:54 > 0:02:57- Which everybody knows... - ..has no...- ..is not duck. LAUGHTER

0:02:57 > 0:03:01- OK, what is it?- Traditionally, it's with bombil, a dried fish,

0:03:01 > 0:03:04but today I'm going to do my version, which is with sea bream.

0:03:06 > 0:03:08George V, Emperor of India...

0:03:08 > 0:03:11- Mm-hmm.- ..was terribly keen on Bombay duck.

0:03:11 > 0:03:16And his chef, whose name was Gabriel Tschumi, used to make it.

0:03:16 > 0:03:22He was chef to both George V, and his father Edward VII, and Victoria,

0:03:22 > 0:03:24and this was one of their favourites.

0:03:24 > 0:03:25So, what are you going to do first?

0:03:25 > 0:03:28Well, first of all, I'm scoring the fish...

0:03:28 > 0:03:30- Yep.- ..so that I can get some salt into the flesh,

0:03:30 > 0:03:32so I can get a bit of seasoning in there.

0:03:32 > 0:03:35There's lots of stories, aren't there,

0:03:35 > 0:03:38of why a fish dish should be called Bombay duck...

0:03:38 > 0:03:41- Yeah.- ..apart from the British sense of humour, or maybe even the Indian

0:03:41 > 0:03:45sense of humour. But I think one of the most convincing that I've heard

0:03:45 > 0:03:50is that the actual cargo carriages they used to put the dried fish on

0:03:50 > 0:03:53were called daaks, from Bombay.

0:03:53 > 0:03:56I think it's probably a corruption of "Bombay daak", which is why they

0:03:56 > 0:03:58- call it Bombay duck. - Yeah, and I love it.

0:03:58 > 0:04:00I think it's such a, you know, a fascinating, interesting name,

0:04:00 > 0:04:03with so much kind of story and history to it.

0:04:03 > 0:04:07OK. Well, they look wonderful, don't they? All perched up.

0:04:07 > 0:04:09- Would you like to pop them in the oven for us?- I will, I will.

0:04:09 > 0:04:12So, the oven should be at about 180 degrees, and we'll cook them...

0:04:12 > 0:04:15Do you ever put an oven on at anything other than 180 degrees?

0:04:15 > 0:04:16No, it's my favourite number.

0:04:16 > 0:04:19- OK.- And we'll cook it for about ten minutes.- Ten minutes, OK.

0:04:20 > 0:04:22- So, what next?- So, next

0:04:22 > 0:04:24we're going to make the actual kind of curry sauce.

0:04:25 > 0:04:28What we have here is something I made earlier on.

0:04:28 > 0:04:31So, it's coconut, you've ginger, chillies, garlic, onion and

0:04:31 > 0:04:34coriander that I've just blitzed together.

0:04:34 > 0:04:37It's rather interesting, actually, that George V should be interested

0:04:37 > 0:04:40in a spicy dish like this, because famously he was an unsophisticated

0:04:40 > 0:04:43eater, and Gabriel Tschumi, his chef,

0:04:43 > 0:04:45used to rather complain about it a bit,

0:04:45 > 0:04:46because he'd only like plain food.

0:04:46 > 0:04:49The Queen's grandfather, of course, we're talking about.

0:04:49 > 0:04:53But he really loved this Bombay duck.

0:04:53 > 0:04:57What are the main spice flavours and smells that are coming out?

0:04:57 > 0:05:01The base of nearly all Indian cookery is ginger and garlic,

0:05:01 > 0:05:05and right now that's exactly what you can smell. It's just delicious.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08- Yeah.- This is just the beginning of all the other delights we're about

0:05:08 > 0:05:11to add in. OK, so, to this I'm going to add fish masala.

0:05:12 > 0:05:15Next, I'm going to add in the garam masala.

0:05:15 > 0:05:19- And what does that do?- Well, this is a mixture of in-house spices,

0:05:19 > 0:05:22so every restaurant or every home would have a different mix.

0:05:22 > 0:05:25Next, I'm going to add in the tomato that's been pureed up to make it

0:05:25 > 0:05:28- nice for a sauce.- Gabriel Tschumi, the royal chef,

0:05:28 > 0:05:31I mean, he was a royal chef for a long time.

0:05:31 > 0:05:34He started in the palace kitchens as an apprentice,

0:05:34 > 0:05:38- and he did Edward VII's Coronation meal...- Yeah.

0:05:38 > 0:05:43..and he actually did the wedding breakfast for the Queen's parents.

0:05:44 > 0:05:45So I've added in the kokum,

0:05:45 > 0:05:47that's the leaves that I just added in there.

0:05:47 > 0:05:50- What's kokum?- Kokum is, it's the skin of a fruit

0:05:50 > 0:05:51that you find in India.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54A little bit like the tamarind paste that I'm adding in as well.

0:05:54 > 0:05:56- Oh, right, right.- Both of them add in a bit of acidity.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58It's beginning to look like curry, isn't it?

0:05:58 > 0:06:01Yep. I'm going to add our oil in here,

0:06:01 > 0:06:03because this needs to get quite hot.

0:06:03 > 0:06:07- It's olive oil, is it? - This is pomace oil.

0:06:07 > 0:06:11- Pomace oil is like the last press you get out of an olive.- Mmm.

0:06:11 > 0:06:14So that it is a really good cooking oil, basically.

0:06:14 > 0:06:18Very little flavour in it, doesn't interfere with your dish, and can go

0:06:18 > 0:06:21- to quite a high temperature, which is really what you want.- Right.

0:06:21 > 0:06:24- So, next, I'm going to make a salad...- OK.

0:06:25 > 0:06:27..to go on the side.

0:06:27 > 0:06:31- You do need with curry, don't you, you need some freshness.- Yes.

0:06:33 > 0:06:36And I'm just going to season this with a little bit of salt before we

0:06:36 > 0:06:39go any further. Get that on the tomato,

0:06:39 > 0:06:42because I think tomatoes are quite delicious with a bit of salt.

0:06:42 > 0:06:43Put that in there.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47So, we're going to mix it with a little bit of garam masala.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50- Why's that, then?- I just think that the spice flavour

0:06:50 > 0:06:54- just goes really well.- Yep.- So I'm just chopping up a green chilli,

0:06:54 > 0:06:57to give it a nice little bit of a kick.

0:06:57 > 0:06:59This will put hairs on your chest,

0:06:59 > 0:07:02- so you'll have to be careful how much I put in here. - LAUGHTER

0:07:02 > 0:07:05I've got plenty of hairs on my chest, thank you very much indeed,

0:07:05 > 0:07:06if you're going to get personal. LAUGHTER

0:07:08 > 0:07:09Bit of lime juice on there.

0:07:09 > 0:07:11Oh, that really freshens it up, doesn't it?

0:07:11 > 0:07:13- Oh, yeah, I love a bit of lime juice.- Love lime.

0:07:13 > 0:07:17Actually, I mostly like lime in gin and tonic. LAUGHTER

0:07:17 > 0:07:20- You know how it is.- And then we're going to just rip

0:07:20 > 0:07:21some coriander in there.

0:07:21 > 0:07:24And I'd say that the fish is probably close to being ready now...

0:07:24 > 0:07:28- Uh-huh?- ..if you'd like to go and investigate that.

0:07:28 > 0:07:30I'll do it.

0:07:30 > 0:07:33- It's going to be hot, isn't it? - Oh, it's going to be hot, hot!

0:07:33 > 0:07:35Mind your fingers.

0:07:35 > 0:07:38Dare I say, their tails are not swishing now.

0:07:38 > 0:07:41- Oh, can I put it on there?- Yeah. Perfect, perfect.- Just in time.

0:07:41 > 0:07:43- Golly!- Yeah, gorgeous, beautiful.

0:07:44 > 0:07:49So this tray is completely dry, and that's very important for what we're

0:07:49 > 0:07:52going to do now. Place these lying down

0:07:52 > 0:07:54- on their sides.- Beautifully cooked.

0:07:54 > 0:07:58And I will just place this away, get it out of our way.

0:07:58 > 0:08:00- Shall I do that? - No, it's OK, got it.

0:08:00 > 0:08:02- Being gallant, you see. - Oh, you're very good.

0:08:02 > 0:08:05So now I'm going to pour this very hot oil over the fish,

0:08:05 > 0:08:08- so you need to stand back.- Now, what's the purpose of this?

0:08:08 > 0:08:09Why are you doing this?

0:08:09 > 0:08:12- This is going to blister the skin of the fish.- And, what,

0:08:12 > 0:08:13it's just to crisp up the skin?

0:08:13 > 0:08:15- Yeah, just crisps. - IT SIZZLES AND POPS

0:08:15 > 0:08:18Yikes! LAUGHTER

0:08:18 > 0:08:19That was like a gunshot.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23But that was really quite a high-risk technique, that,

0:08:23 > 0:08:25blistering it with boiling oil.

0:08:25 > 0:08:27I was just trying to impress you, Michael.

0:08:27 > 0:08:30Well, you've impressed me all right. Frightened me to death. SHE LAUGHS

0:08:30 > 0:08:33So, we're just going to bring this up to the boil again.

0:08:34 > 0:08:36I bet that's fantastic.

0:08:39 > 0:08:41I mean, it's got so much in there,

0:08:41 > 0:08:43you couldn't possibly be wanting for anything.

0:08:43 > 0:08:46- Oh, a bit of salt?- No, I'm going to put a little bit of sugar,

0:08:46 > 0:08:49- tiny bit of sugar.- Sugar?!- Yes, just a small amount of sugar.

0:08:49 > 0:08:53The tamarind and the kokum, they're quite tart kind of flavours.

0:08:53 > 0:08:56Gorgeous depth of flavour they bring, but a little pinch of sugar

0:08:56 > 0:09:00doesn't go amiss, and I'm putting just a little bit of salt in there

0:09:00 > 0:09:03- as well.- We nearly there?- Yeah, we're there. Ready to serve.

0:09:03 > 0:09:05Excellent. I'm ready to eat.

0:09:05 > 0:09:09So, I'm just going to take the curry sauce now and place it on the plate.

0:09:09 > 0:09:12- Are you going to put the sauce on first?- Sauce on first.- Mm-hm.

0:09:12 > 0:09:14I just think this is a more beautiful way

0:09:14 > 0:09:15- of presenting the fish.- Yeah.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18- It's fantastic, isn't it? - Yeah, it's the star of the show.

0:09:19 > 0:09:21Oh, look at that!

0:09:23 > 0:09:26- There we go.- Here's our salad. - And that looks terrific, doesn't it?

0:09:26 > 0:09:29- The colour, apart from anything else...- Is beautiful.

0:09:29 > 0:09:33- It packs a punch. So...- So, I've got to be careful of that as well?

0:09:33 > 0:09:36- Well, I think...- You know, it's a risky job making cookery programmes

0:09:36 > 0:09:38with you. It's a really risky job.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42- There we go. Here's your knife and fork.- Thank you.- Can you start?

0:09:42 > 0:09:44- Yes, of course.- And then I'll follow you into it.

0:09:45 > 0:09:47Oh, my God, I'm so excited.

0:09:47 > 0:09:49And rightly so, look at this.

0:09:52 > 0:09:54Mmmm!

0:09:54 > 0:09:59There's so much flavour packed into that.

0:09:59 > 0:10:01And yet you've got this wonderful, succulent

0:10:01 > 0:10:04flesh of the sea bream.

0:10:04 > 0:10:08- And now your nuclear salad. - Oh, yeah. How much did you put in?

0:10:10 > 0:10:14My word. SHE LAUGHS

0:10:14 > 0:10:16My word!

0:10:16 > 0:10:17I warned you!

0:10:17 > 0:10:19Mmm!

0:10:19 > 0:10:21Well, George V was Emperor of India...

0:10:24 > 0:10:27..and if that's what the Emperor of India gets as an Indian dish,

0:10:27 > 0:10:29it's brilliant.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35A wonderfully spiced dish that's a modern take on a royal favourite.

0:10:41 > 0:10:45These days, a trip to the supermarket can get you all manner

0:10:45 > 0:10:48of herbs and spices to jazz up your cooking.

0:10:48 > 0:10:52But, until the 16th century, spices were rare and expensive.

0:10:52 > 0:10:54So, in 1577,

0:10:54 > 0:10:59Elizabeth I dispatched her favourite swashbuckler to open up the trade.

0:11:01 > 0:11:04Polly Russell went to the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich to find

0:11:04 > 0:11:07out more about that fearless adventurer of the Tudor age,

0:11:07 > 0:11:09Sir Francis Drake.

0:11:09 > 0:11:12He set off on an epic three-year voyage around the world,

0:11:12 > 0:11:15returning to our shores with a treasure trove of riches,

0:11:15 > 0:11:17including exotic spices.

0:11:19 > 0:11:23The Elizabethans loved spice, but only the very,

0:11:23 > 0:11:28very wealthiest could afford the luxury of eating food flavoured

0:11:28 > 0:11:30with the taste of the East.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33Peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon.

0:11:33 > 0:11:36There were fortunes to be made from spices.

0:11:36 > 0:11:40Cloves alone were worth their weight in gold.

0:11:42 > 0:11:46But how did Sir Francis Drake establish this profitable trade?

0:11:46 > 0:11:48James Davey, curator of naval history

0:11:48 > 0:11:51at the National Maritime Museum, explains.

0:11:52 > 0:11:56Drake was one of the most prominent figures of the Elizabethan age.

0:11:56 > 0:11:59He was actually a man of relatively humble origins.

0:11:59 > 0:12:01- So, not an aristocrat? - Not an aristocrat.

0:12:01 > 0:12:04And basically grew through the layers of English society,

0:12:04 > 0:12:08as a result of his own ambition and talent.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12Drake made his fortune from profitable trading voyages

0:12:12 > 0:12:15to the West Indies in 1570 and '71.

0:12:15 > 0:12:19While there, he raided Spanish ships in ports and stole treasure,

0:12:19 > 0:12:21including gold and silver.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25This came to the attention of Queen Elizabeth I.

0:12:25 > 0:12:28So, I understand why Drake wants to go on these voyages,

0:12:28 > 0:12:30because he becomes fabulously wealthy,

0:12:30 > 0:12:32but why does Elizabeth care?

0:12:32 > 0:12:35She is essentially an investor in Drake's voyages.

0:12:35 > 0:12:37She puts money up initially,

0:12:37 > 0:12:41which enables Drake to sail across the Atlantic.

0:12:41 > 0:12:44But this means when he does return, hopefully with a ship full of gold,

0:12:44 > 0:12:46she gets a large share of the booty.

0:12:46 > 0:12:48There were a lot of English adventurers

0:12:48 > 0:12:50capturing a lot of Spanish ships.

0:12:50 > 0:12:52And can you give me some sort of sense of the wealth

0:12:52 > 0:12:54that is involved in this?

0:12:54 > 0:12:57You know, what are the wins, if you are successful,

0:12:57 > 0:12:59if you're someone like Drake?

0:12:59 > 0:13:02Personally, you can make a fortune.

0:13:02 > 0:13:03We're talking tens,

0:13:03 > 0:13:07if not hundreds of thousands of pounds in 16th-century money,

0:13:07 > 0:13:10which is many, many millions in today's money.

0:13:10 > 0:13:14But also huge amounts for the state as well.

0:13:14 > 0:13:17This is why Elizabeth is so keen for these adventurers to be sailing

0:13:17 > 0:13:19around the Atlantic Ocean.

0:13:19 > 0:13:22And we see her gratitude here in this portrait,

0:13:22 > 0:13:26with that fabulous jewel that's slung around Drake's waist.

0:13:26 > 0:13:29- What's it called, the Drake's Jewel? - Absolutely, yes.

0:13:29 > 0:13:32She bestowed numerous gifts on him, as well as a knighthood,

0:13:32 > 0:13:35much to the fury of watching Spanish observers,

0:13:35 > 0:13:37who knew exactly what Drake had been up to.

0:13:37 > 0:13:39This wonderful contrast,

0:13:39 > 0:13:43in England, Drake is this hero, celebrated on the streets.

0:13:43 > 0:13:46In the rest of the world, he is "El Draque," the Dragon,

0:13:46 > 0:13:47a pirate in all but name.

0:13:49 > 0:13:52Drake was secretly commissioned by Queen Elizabeth to lead raids

0:13:52 > 0:13:55against the Spanish colonies on the American Pacific coast.

0:13:57 > 0:13:58During his three-year voyage,

0:13:58 > 0:14:02not only did Drake amass a huge cargo of treasure,

0:14:02 > 0:14:05but he also became the first Englishman to forge a lucrative

0:14:05 > 0:14:07spice trade with the East.

0:14:09 > 0:14:12And this is where the trade in spices is really centred?

0:14:12 > 0:14:14Absolutely.

0:14:14 > 0:14:18Drake took a detour to the Spice Islands in Indonesia,

0:14:18 > 0:14:21picking up an array of spices that would be sold for enormous profit

0:14:21 > 0:14:26back home, often 1,000% more than the price he paid for them.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29Well, some of them you can see here.

0:14:29 > 0:14:33So, we've got nutmeg, and we've got cinnamon and cloves.

0:14:33 > 0:14:34You know, people in England

0:14:34 > 0:14:36just hadn't seen anything like this before.

0:14:36 > 0:14:39But it's also about, I think,

0:14:39 > 0:14:42just saying how boring English food probably was before this,

0:14:42 > 0:14:45and what a revolution spices like this made.

0:14:45 > 0:14:49So, these things that we take as being, sort of, quite ordinary now,

0:14:49 > 0:14:50we can get them everywhere,

0:14:50 > 0:14:53actually are worth an enormous amount of money?

0:14:53 > 0:14:56Exactly. And I think we have to remember that's probably what was

0:14:56 > 0:14:59most important to Drake. You know, Drake was not a person who

0:14:59 > 0:15:01would be stirring the kitchen pot every evening.

0:15:01 > 0:15:04He wasn't interested in recipes so much as what these commodities

0:15:04 > 0:15:06would be worth.

0:15:06 > 0:15:09And how was he rewarded for this incredible journey?

0:15:09 > 0:15:13Well, firstly, he had a share of the profits himself.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15So, he did very well, financially, out of it.

0:15:15 > 0:15:18But he also found a very grateful Queen.

0:15:18 > 0:15:22The proceeds from Elizabeth's share of this voyage allowed her to

0:15:22 > 0:15:24completely pay off her national debt.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26We're talking vast sums of money.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28So, yes, she was very, very grateful,

0:15:28 > 0:15:30and bestowed on him a knighthood,

0:15:30 > 0:15:32and that's when he became Sir Francis Drake.

0:15:33 > 0:15:37Getting spice to England was incredibly difficult,

0:15:37 > 0:15:41so these trade routes, which were sort of pioneered in a way by Drake,

0:15:41 > 0:15:46would have made possible an easier flow of spice to the country.

0:15:46 > 0:15:47Absolutely.

0:15:47 > 0:15:49The Elizabethan era saw the beginning

0:15:49 > 0:15:52of British imperial aspirations,

0:15:52 > 0:15:56which would reach their peak some 300 years later under the rule of

0:15:56 > 0:15:59another formidable queen, Victoria.

0:15:59 > 0:16:04And Sir Francis Drake was one of the forerunners of generations of

0:16:04 > 0:16:06adventurers who would make their fame, name and fortune

0:16:06 > 0:16:08on the high seas.

0:16:08 > 0:16:10And all this was set in motion

0:16:10 > 0:16:14by the lucrative trade in spice from the East.

0:16:22 > 0:16:24And what, 400, 500 years later,

0:16:24 > 0:16:27the royals still love their spice puddings today, don't they, Anna?

0:16:27 > 0:16:29- Yes.- What are you going to do now?

0:16:29 > 0:16:32I'm making a souffle inspired by bara brith,

0:16:32 > 0:16:34which is a spiced fruit loaf.

0:16:34 > 0:16:38- And bara brith, I think, is Welsh for "speckled bread."- Ah!

0:16:38 > 0:16:39Apparently, what used to happen

0:16:39 > 0:16:42in Welsh homes when they were baking bread, the last kind of lump of

0:16:42 > 0:16:46dough, they'd throw in some dried fruit that had been soaked in

0:16:46 > 0:16:49tea and some mixed spice, and they'd come up with this.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51And it's a great favourite of the Prince of Wales,

0:16:51 > 0:16:54and, in fact, he sent a recipe for this,

0:16:54 > 0:16:57or a bread and butter pudding based on this,

0:16:57 > 0:16:59to some Welsh primary school for a charity cookbook,

0:16:59 > 0:17:02which is our excuse for doing it! SHE LAUGHS

0:17:02 > 0:17:05- So, how are you going to do it?- So, I'm going to take my brown sugar,

0:17:05 > 0:17:08some raisins, sultanas, some mixed peel, cranberries,

0:17:08 > 0:17:11there's a few different fruits in there.

0:17:11 > 0:17:14And then tea. So, we're going to let that soak overnight,

0:17:14 > 0:17:19so that the raisins and the dried fruit soak up all the tea and become

0:17:19 > 0:17:21quite soft and plump.

0:17:21 > 0:17:23And then we puree it, and this is what you'll get.

0:17:23 > 0:17:28So, this is like a kind of fruit base that I'll add to our

0:17:28 > 0:17:30creme pat later on.

0:17:30 > 0:17:34- So, I'm going to make creme pat now, which is...- Creme pat?

0:17:34 > 0:17:36- How do you define it?- Posh custard?

0:17:36 > 0:17:39- Posh custard, yeah.- I'm going to mix some allspice in here,

0:17:39 > 0:17:42so there's some lovely nutmeg, some clove and some cinnamon.

0:17:42 > 0:17:46- Ooh!- And while I'm waiting for that to boil, I'm going to mix my

0:17:46 > 0:17:48cornflour and my sugar.

0:17:48 > 0:17:52When the Prince of Wales was actually invested as Prince of Wales

0:17:52 > 0:17:55in 1969, I was a young reporter and I travelled up and down Wales,

0:17:55 > 0:17:58followed him around. The 21st Prince of Wales...

0:17:58 > 0:18:01- Mmm.- ..all that history and such a...

0:18:01 > 0:18:04But I never came across bara brith.

0:18:04 > 0:18:07It's amazing what you catch up with in your old age, isn't it?

0:18:07 > 0:18:08Now, what are you doing now?

0:18:08 > 0:18:10I'm just whisking the sugar and the cornflour and

0:18:10 > 0:18:13the egg yolks, and it's perfect timing.

0:18:13 > 0:18:16The milk and spices just come up to the boil.

0:18:16 > 0:18:20And I'm going to slowly just pour a little bit into it.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22- Mix it in.- Anna, you do this quite often, don't you?

0:18:22 > 0:18:25You do it very gently, so the eggs don't kind of get...

0:18:25 > 0:18:27- Scrambled.- ..scrambled, I suppose, yeah.- Yeah.

0:18:27 > 0:18:30- Are you feeling the pressure, Anna? - I'm feeling the pressure.- Good.

0:18:30 > 0:18:32Now that you've mentioned it, I'm feeling more pressure.

0:18:32 > 0:18:36OK, so, our creme pat goes back into the pan.

0:18:36 > 0:18:39- Yeah.- And we're just going to thicken this up now.

0:18:39 > 0:18:42I love those sort of spicy smells and flavours,

0:18:42 > 0:18:45- because there's so much history behind them.- Yes. Yes.

0:18:45 > 0:18:50And when you think of what fortunes were made when these spices were so

0:18:50 > 0:18:53rare and now you can slip down the supermarket and, you know...

0:18:53 > 0:18:56- I know.- ..just buy them off the shelf.- And for... Yeah.

0:18:56 > 0:18:59People lived and died, huge empires built on spices.

0:18:59 > 0:19:02- Absolutely.- So, how is it coming along?

0:19:02 > 0:19:04Yes, it's thickening up nicely now.

0:19:04 > 0:19:06And now I'm going to just place it into the bowl.

0:19:06 > 0:19:09- You can't use a hot mix with your eggs...- Right.- ..because it will

0:19:09 > 0:19:13just remove all the air, so I'm going to get rid of this bowl now.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17- And I have some that I made... - Made earlier.- ..earlier.

0:19:17 > 0:19:20- OK.- So, I'm going to start to whisk the egg whites now.

0:19:20 > 0:19:23- OK.- OK, so, I've got like a tablespoon of caster sugar,

0:19:23 > 0:19:26- and I've got about four egg whites. - Four egg whites.

0:19:26 > 0:19:29And what's really important is that you don't

0:19:29 > 0:19:32rush whisking the egg whites,

0:19:32 > 0:19:35but, also, once you start whisking, you also can't stop.

0:19:35 > 0:19:37So, it's like you have to be ready to make the souffle,

0:19:37 > 0:19:39because this can wait.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42It is a luxury food, isn't it?

0:19:42 > 0:19:46- Yes.- You know, the sort of thing you would serve to the royal dinner or

0:19:46 > 0:19:49- something like that.- Absolutely. - There's a kind of excitement

0:19:49 > 0:19:51about souffles. Is there a danger of overdoing this?

0:19:51 > 0:19:53Yeah, yeah, yeah, nothing's easy about a souffle.

0:19:53 > 0:19:55- Oh, right.- OK, so, I think we're done now.

0:19:55 > 0:19:59OK. So, now, I'm just going to take a little, small amount of our puree,

0:19:59 > 0:20:02- not too much. - That's a very tiny amount.

0:20:02 > 0:20:04And then I'm going to take all of the creme pat...

0:20:04 > 0:20:07Well, it's very strong. It's quite a strong puree.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10And then...take my first bit of egg white.

0:20:10 > 0:20:14When you're folding it, it's exactly like I'm saying, you're folding it,

0:20:14 > 0:20:15you're not whisking it...

0:20:15 > 0:20:17- Beating it.- ..you're not over... Yeah, exactly.

0:20:17 > 0:20:19So, piping bag.

0:20:21 > 0:20:24Why are you doing that? Why don't you just turf it in?

0:20:24 > 0:20:26Well, if you look at how I pipe this in,

0:20:26 > 0:20:28I put it down pretty close to the base,

0:20:28 > 0:20:31and I squeeze it into the mould,

0:20:31 > 0:20:34and what this does is that it removes, kind of, air pockets.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37So if you've got a big air pocket in the bottom of your souffle,

0:20:37 > 0:20:40it would push your souffle up to rise, like, huge, and you'd think,

0:20:40 > 0:20:42"Oh, my God, my souffle is done," but it's not.

0:20:42 > 0:20:44- Yeah, yeah.- It's a pocket of air that's trying to escape.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47HE GASPS

0:20:47 > 0:20:51OK, great. So this goes into the oven, 200 degrees, for 8-10 minutes.

0:20:51 > 0:20:53So, what goes with a souffle?

0:20:53 > 0:20:55I was thinking some caramelised bananas?

0:20:55 > 0:20:58Maybe with some whisky on top.

0:20:58 > 0:21:00- Ah!- OK.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03- So how do you do it? What do you do? - So, on a nice, high heat,

0:21:03 > 0:21:05we want to get our pan lovely and warm,

0:21:05 > 0:21:08so that when we get our sugar and our butter in there, that it kind of

0:21:08 > 0:21:11goes into a caramel very quickly.

0:21:12 > 0:21:14- So, you've done the butter... - Yeah, done the butter.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17- A bit of ordinary sugar or caster sugar?- This is just caster sugar,

0:21:17 > 0:21:18yeah. It's just caster sugar.

0:21:18 > 0:21:21I'm just going to sprinkle it in on top of the butter.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23I'm worried about that souffle, you know.

0:21:23 > 0:21:25- Don't worry.- I'm really surprised you're not worried about it.

0:21:25 > 0:21:28- Leave the worrying up to me, Michael.- Are you sure? Hmm.- Yes.

0:21:30 > 0:21:32It won't matter if the souffle is a disaster now, will it?

0:21:32 > 0:21:34- This will be delicious anyway. - I know.

0:21:34 > 0:21:37It was really... The important part is the flambeed bananas.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39SHE LAUGHS

0:21:39 > 0:21:43- When does the booze go in?- Just when the sugar does start to change.

0:21:43 > 0:21:45- Right.- So it kind of stops the caramel.

0:21:46 > 0:21:49Michael, do you want to check the souffle,

0:21:49 > 0:21:51- tell me how beautiful it looks? - OK. OK.

0:21:54 > 0:21:56OK, I'm going to put the whisky in now.

0:21:56 > 0:21:59- How's it looking?- Oh...- Oh, Michael!

0:21:59 > 0:22:01- Stop it!- It looks amazing, actually.

0:22:01 > 0:22:03It's trying to escape.

0:22:06 > 0:22:07How do you know when it's done?

0:22:07 > 0:22:09Well, it sounds like it might be almost done.

0:22:09 > 0:22:11When it's halfway across the kitchen floor?

0:22:12 > 0:22:14- OK.- OK.

0:22:14 > 0:22:16- In goes our whisky. - In goes the whisky.

0:22:20 > 0:22:22Whoo!

0:22:22 > 0:22:24LAUGHTER

0:22:26 > 0:22:28Where are my eyebrows?!

0:22:31 > 0:22:32Oh, that's fantastic!

0:22:34 > 0:22:36All we want to do is just cook off the alcohol, and, when you flambe,

0:22:36 > 0:22:38you cook off the alcohol faster.

0:22:38 > 0:22:40So, now I'm going to just put a little spoon of this...

0:22:40 > 0:22:43- Not just showing...chef showing off?- No.- No.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46OK, I'm going to go check our souffle now.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48Now, what do you think?

0:22:48 > 0:22:51Oh, my God! It looks amazing!

0:22:51 > 0:22:54- It's a bit lopsided. - Stop it, it looks amazing!

0:22:54 > 0:22:56All right, all right, all right.

0:22:56 > 0:23:00- OK. So here we are. - HE CHUCKLES

0:23:00 > 0:23:02Oh, look at that!

0:23:02 > 0:23:04- This is our souffle... - Dust it a bit?

0:23:04 > 0:23:06..with caramelised bananas.

0:23:08 > 0:23:11- Wait for the bananas. Yes. - Go ahead, go ahead.- Are you sure?

0:23:11 > 0:23:14- Shouldn't you?- Go, go, go. - Oh, whoa!

0:23:16 > 0:23:18- And a bit of...- Banana, why not?

0:23:18 > 0:23:19A bit of banana.

0:23:21 > 0:23:23Mmm.

0:23:23 > 0:23:27It's so light. There's sweetness there, but it's the spice.

0:23:27 > 0:23:29It's really the spice, isn't it?

0:23:29 > 0:23:34All those spices over the centuries, and they're all in this dish.

0:23:34 > 0:23:38- That's it.- Brilliant, Anna. So spicy. It's so sweet.

0:23:38 > 0:23:41It is so, in every sense, royal.

0:23:41 > 0:23:45A blend of sweet spices in a surprisingly light pudding.

0:23:45 > 0:23:47No doubt Prince Charles would approve.

0:23:51 > 0:23:54We Brits love a hint of spice in our food,

0:23:54 > 0:23:59and it was the lucrative spice trade that first led us to establish

0:23:59 > 0:24:00a presence in India.

0:24:00 > 0:24:03As the jewel in the British imperial crown,

0:24:03 > 0:24:08Indian food culture has permeated our cuisine like no other,

0:24:08 > 0:24:10and the royals are big fans.

0:24:12 > 0:24:14Southall in West London,

0:24:14 > 0:24:17where Dipna Anand runs an award-winning Indian restaurant.

0:24:17 > 0:24:21Her family have been making Punjabi cuisine for 150 years,

0:24:21 > 0:24:24and they have a time-honoured connection with royalty.

0:24:26 > 0:24:30My grandfather used to cook for the Maharajahs, and now of course

0:24:30 > 0:24:32we cater for royalty here in the UK.

0:24:34 > 0:24:37We serve authentic Punjabi food.

0:24:37 > 0:24:40It's explained as food that comes from the heart and food that's made

0:24:40 > 0:24:43with lots of love and passion.

0:24:43 > 0:24:47Dipna's restaurant has catered for the British royals on more

0:24:47 > 0:24:51than one occasion, and hosted two exalted visitors.

0:24:51 > 0:24:55When Prince Charles visited with the Duchess in 2007,

0:24:55 > 0:24:57it was great because he sampled lots of our dishes,

0:24:57 > 0:25:00and one of the memorable dishes was a tandoori salmon.

0:25:00 > 0:25:04And, as it came out fresh, he was quite wowed by this dish.

0:25:04 > 0:25:06And really wanted to taste it.

0:25:06 > 0:25:09So he had a bite and he absolutely loved it.

0:25:11 > 0:25:14Dipna, with the help of her father, Gulu, is recreating the dish

0:25:14 > 0:25:18that made such a great impression on the Prince.

0:25:18 > 0:25:21To begin with, we need to marinate it.

0:25:21 > 0:25:24So, first of all, some ginger-garlic paste.

0:25:24 > 0:25:26Let's be generous with that.

0:25:26 > 0:25:29And, next, we need some lime juice and the lime juice,

0:25:29 > 0:25:30which is freshly squeezed,

0:25:30 > 0:25:32will really help to hold the fish fibres together.

0:25:34 > 0:25:37The salt will help the salmon seep out the water,

0:25:37 > 0:25:38so that's the secret there.

0:25:38 > 0:25:41And, then, using your hands...

0:25:41 > 0:25:43And be careful whilst you do this,

0:25:43 > 0:25:46because you don't want to break the fish.

0:25:47 > 0:25:50While the fish absorbs the flavours,

0:25:50 > 0:25:52Dipna prepares a second marinade.

0:25:53 > 0:25:54So, yoghurt, first of all.

0:25:55 > 0:25:57And then some olive oil.

0:25:59 > 0:26:00And then we need to spice it up.

0:26:00 > 0:26:03So, some garam masala.

0:26:03 > 0:26:05It's made with 15 different spices.

0:26:05 > 0:26:06It's my grandfather's recipe.

0:26:06 > 0:26:09And you can smell the flavours from a mile off.

0:26:09 > 0:26:12- It is, it is.- And then some red chilli powder.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14Add the turmeric, and turmeric in our cuisine

0:26:14 > 0:26:17is only used for colour purposes.

0:26:17 > 0:26:20And then some red chilli flakes.

0:26:21 > 0:26:23And now we're putting in some carum.

0:26:23 > 0:26:26This is an ingredient that goes really well with seafood dishes.

0:26:26 > 0:26:28Carum, also known as Ajowan caraway,

0:26:28 > 0:26:31has a bitter taste, similar to oregano.

0:26:31 > 0:26:33I think this is the one that Prince Charles picked up on

0:26:33 > 0:26:36when he actually tasted the salmon. Full of flavour.

0:26:36 > 0:26:38And a little bit of food colour.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41Although it looks orange, it is actually yellow food colour,

0:26:41 > 0:26:43but just a touch.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46OK, and then we need some gram flour...

0:26:46 > 0:26:49..which has been roasted. Gives a beautiful flavour.

0:26:49 > 0:26:52Also acts as a binding agent for the marination.

0:26:52 > 0:26:55And then all I need in there is some dill.

0:26:55 > 0:26:59Dill is not really used in Indian cooking.

0:26:59 > 0:27:02But combined with Indian flavours, it's beautiful.

0:27:02 > 0:27:05Again, not too much dill. Just...

0:27:06 > 0:27:11- That's perfect. OK. Just a touch of dill in there.- Yeah.

0:27:11 > 0:27:14And now we need to add the salmon pieces

0:27:14 > 0:27:17into that beautiful marination.

0:27:17 > 0:27:21And then it's time to get our hands dirty.

0:27:22 > 0:27:23Once the fish is well-covered,

0:27:23 > 0:27:25the salmon is left overnight to marinate,

0:27:25 > 0:27:28or, if you're in a rush, an hour will suffice.

0:27:30 > 0:27:34Serving food for royals may be daunting but Dipna's grandfather,

0:27:34 > 0:27:38the late Bishan Das, established the tradition back in the 1950s.

0:27:39 > 0:27:42Well, this was a very, very big honour, to...

0:27:44 > 0:27:45..be sort of cooking for the maharajahs.

0:27:45 > 0:27:47- So this was first back in India... - In India.

0:27:47 > 0:27:49And then he was asked to do it again in Kenya.

0:27:49 > 0:27:53Yes. Then when we migrated to Kenya,

0:27:53 > 0:27:55and opened up the restaurant there,

0:27:55 > 0:27:58they started asking Papaji,

0:27:58 > 0:28:01"Look, we need you to do the catering for us."

0:28:01 > 0:28:03The family's culinary skills

0:28:03 > 0:28:06have pleased the royal palate on three continents.

0:28:06 > 0:28:08With the salmon marinated,

0:28:08 > 0:28:11it's ready to be put on square skewers for cooking.

0:28:12 > 0:28:15This is a tandoor, a traditional clay oven,

0:28:15 > 0:28:18charcoal-powered and very hot.

0:28:18 > 0:28:20The salmon will be left to cook for 15 minutes.

0:28:22 > 0:28:25I remember when his Royal Highness came,

0:28:25 > 0:28:28he put his head over the clay oven like this to see what was cooking

0:28:28 > 0:28:32inside. He was really intrigued to know how the whole concept

0:28:32 > 0:28:34of a clay oven worked.

0:28:34 > 0:28:36OK, and these are just about ready,

0:28:36 > 0:28:38so I am going to take them out.

0:28:41 > 0:28:42Really nice.

0:28:43 > 0:28:45Smells and looks yummy.

0:28:47 > 0:28:49All ready to plate up.

0:28:49 > 0:28:52There's a knack of doing this. You twist and you lift.

0:28:53 > 0:28:54Really hot.

0:28:54 > 0:28:58You've got to have asbestos hands to do this!

0:28:58 > 0:29:01This smells absolutely delicious.

0:29:01 > 0:29:03Garnish with a little bit more coriander.

0:29:04 > 0:29:07And that is a dish fit for royalty.

0:29:12 > 0:29:15On official engagements to countries around the world,

0:29:15 > 0:29:19the royals have been exposed to all manner of spicy ingredients

0:29:19 > 0:29:20and delicacies.

0:29:20 > 0:29:22And it's fair to assume that they enjoy

0:29:22 > 0:29:24the occasional piquant meal at home, too.

0:29:33 > 0:29:37Although the royals do tend to avoid things like garlic and spices

0:29:37 > 0:29:40when they're on their official engagements, for obvious reasons,

0:29:40 > 0:29:44they do seem to enjoy Britain's different food cultures, don't they?

0:29:44 > 0:29:47Well, I'm not surprised. They do travel a lot.

0:29:47 > 0:29:50Well, they travel a lot but they also enjoy the different foods

0:29:50 > 0:29:52in this country. I think in 2015,

0:29:52 > 0:29:56Charles and Camilla spent Chinese New Year in Chinatown

0:29:56 > 0:29:59with a Chinese TV chef, rather like you...

0:30:00 > 0:30:01..learning how to do dumplings.

0:30:01 > 0:30:04- Oh!- I think all those different

0:30:04 > 0:30:08food cultures have kind of fed into what

0:30:08 > 0:30:09we now regard as our food heritage.

0:30:09 > 0:30:11You know, all these...all these condiments.

0:30:11 > 0:30:14I mean, these are some that the royals are said to favour.

0:30:14 > 0:30:17The condiments that we think are quintessentially British,

0:30:17 > 0:30:19- you know...- Mm.- ..ketchups and the brown sauce

0:30:19 > 0:30:22and these various different mustards.

0:30:22 > 0:30:24At one time, the ingredients in these condiments

0:30:24 > 0:30:26were exotic and expensive.

0:30:26 > 0:30:29- So expensive that they were almost the preserve of the royals.- I...

0:30:29 > 0:30:31- What's your favourite?- My favourite?

0:30:31 > 0:30:32Well, when I was a child,

0:30:32 > 0:30:35my dad always used to kind of put this version of

0:30:35 > 0:30:39Worcestershire sauce on it - I think called candy sauce.

0:30:39 > 0:30:42But, nowadays, people use this in cooking every day.

0:30:42 > 0:30:45You would put it in...sometimes in your spaghetti Bolognese.

0:30:45 > 0:30:49- It's kind of a part of our life.- And it really peps it up, doesn't it?

0:30:49 > 0:30:52- Mm!- Actually, that's the one piquant

0:30:52 > 0:30:56household condiment that's been a favourite of the royals

0:30:56 > 0:30:59since Queen Victoria gave it the regal thumbs up

0:30:59 > 0:31:01170 years ago.

0:31:04 > 0:31:08The makers of this spicy sauce have been based at the same site in

0:31:08 > 0:31:10the city of Worcester since 1897.

0:31:12 > 0:31:15Communications director Nigel Dickie shows us around.

0:31:16 > 0:31:22This site was developed specifically for Lea & Perrins in 1897.

0:31:22 > 0:31:23In the early days,

0:31:23 > 0:31:25this courtyard would have seen

0:31:25 > 0:31:28horses and carts bringing ingredients in.

0:31:28 > 0:31:30So, that's changed, of course.

0:31:30 > 0:31:33Health and safety wouldn't allow that.

0:31:33 > 0:31:35And we've moved on.

0:31:35 > 0:31:36This is a time-honoured process

0:31:36 > 0:31:40that really hasn't changed since it was first created.

0:31:41 > 0:31:46In 1835, two local chemists, John Lea and William Perrins,

0:31:46 > 0:31:49were approached by an English nobleman, Lord Sandys,

0:31:49 > 0:31:53to recreate a sauce he'd tasted while in India.

0:31:53 > 0:31:57The result was said to have been unpalatable red-hot firewater,

0:31:57 > 0:32:00and was subsequently left in the cellar.

0:32:00 > 0:32:0218 months later, they returned to the barrels,

0:32:02 > 0:32:05which had been slowly maturing, and, to their astonishment,

0:32:05 > 0:32:07it tasted delicious.

0:32:11 > 0:32:15Mr Lea and Mr Perrins were real entrepreneurs.

0:32:15 > 0:32:20And, in 1843, they were selling 14,500 bottles a year.

0:32:21 > 0:32:24There was a mystique around the recipe, but, here today,

0:32:24 > 0:32:27we can see around 1,600 barrels

0:32:27 > 0:32:31that are used, where the key ingredients are kept,

0:32:31 > 0:32:34so, in this barrel here, for example, garlic,

0:32:34 > 0:32:37which is quietly maturing in malt vinegar.

0:32:38 > 0:32:41And it can be here for up to 18 months

0:32:41 > 0:32:45before it's just ready and just soft enough.

0:32:45 > 0:32:50So, not many people know that there is this great aroma

0:32:50 > 0:32:53of onions and garlic down here.

0:32:53 > 0:32:56It's a great shame we can't give that to everybody, that experience.

0:32:57 > 0:32:59I don't think this is ready just yet.

0:32:59 > 0:33:02A few more months yet before it can go to the making house.

0:33:04 > 0:33:06During the Second World War,

0:33:06 > 0:33:09rationing meant that the sugar had to be taken out but, otherwise,

0:33:09 > 0:33:12the ingredients haven't changed too much over the years.

0:33:14 > 0:33:19These barrels have around 100kg of red skin onions

0:33:19 > 0:33:21and 100 litres of malt vinegar.

0:33:21 > 0:33:24We've brought them up from the basement because they're

0:33:24 > 0:33:28just ready to be mixed in the mixing tank.

0:33:31 > 0:33:33Here, tamarind paste is added.

0:33:33 > 0:33:37This fruit from the tamarind is native to India, and gives the sauce

0:33:37 > 0:33:39its sweet and sour note.

0:33:39 > 0:33:42The last ingredient to be added is the secret spice mix,

0:33:42 > 0:33:44known only to four people.

0:33:44 > 0:33:47This gives the sauce its signature taste.

0:33:48 > 0:33:51And this mixing tank's about 5,000 litres,

0:33:51 > 0:33:55so we bring all of the ingredients together, blend them,

0:33:55 > 0:33:58and then they're moved to our maturation tanks,

0:33:58 > 0:34:00which are around 30,000 litres.

0:34:00 > 0:34:05And there, the recipe stays for up to 18 months,

0:34:05 > 0:34:06occasionally stirred,

0:34:06 > 0:34:10and it continues its quiet maturing process.

0:34:10 > 0:34:14The sauce was first sold commercially in 1837.

0:34:14 > 0:34:18In 1849, arrangements were made for its export overseas.

0:34:20 > 0:34:22Some bottles didn't survive the voyage,

0:34:22 > 0:34:25so the company began to wrap its precious cargo in paper,

0:34:25 > 0:34:28as a cushion against the rigours of transportation.

0:34:30 > 0:34:32Next stop, bottling.

0:34:32 > 0:34:36In a day, we will pack around 450,000 bottles.

0:34:36 > 0:34:41We'll make around 26 million bottles a year.

0:34:41 > 0:34:43So, some of these bottles moving along here,

0:34:43 > 0:34:45they'll end up in supermarkets.

0:34:45 > 0:34:49Some of them may even end up in the royal households.

0:34:49 > 0:34:52The process has remained practically the same since 1835,

0:34:52 > 0:34:55and another thing that's remained unchanged

0:34:55 > 0:34:57is the Royals' taste for the sauce.

0:34:57 > 0:34:59We have a Royal warrant.

0:34:59 > 0:35:01Started in 1904

0:35:01 > 0:35:05with the Royal warrant from King Edward VII.

0:35:05 > 0:35:06But that continues today

0:35:06 > 0:35:10and we're very proud to have Her Majesty's approval.

0:35:12 > 0:35:15Amongst their archive, the company has a letter from Queen Mary,

0:35:15 > 0:35:18writing to thank them for making a miniature bottle of the sauce

0:35:18 > 0:35:20especially for her dolls' house.

0:35:22 > 0:35:26Dated in April 1924, it says,

0:35:26 > 0:35:30"it is with the greatest pleasure that I have to say thank you

0:35:30 > 0:35:35"to all those kind people who have helped make the dolls house

0:35:35 > 0:35:39"the most perfect present that anyone could receive."

0:35:39 > 0:35:43And you can still see that dolls house today in Windsor Castle.

0:35:51 > 0:35:54Personally, I like Worcestershire sauce in a Bloody Mary.

0:35:54 > 0:35:57- Now, you're going to use it in a dish, aren't you?- I am.

0:35:57 > 0:35:59- What are you going to do?- I'm going to make steak Diane.

0:35:59 > 0:36:02And the Worcestershire sauce is going to be in the actual sauce.

0:36:02 > 0:36:04- Steak Diane!- Yeah! Yes.- OK.

0:36:04 > 0:36:07Gosh, look at that. Ooh, you're cutting them really thick, too.

0:36:07 > 0:36:11Yes. I'm going to brush it with some oil, drizzle some oil on it.

0:36:11 > 0:36:13Now, is this perfect for a barbecue?

0:36:13 > 0:36:16Perfect for a barbecue, because the lovely leanness of the meat

0:36:16 > 0:36:19means it doesn't need to cook for too long,

0:36:19 > 0:36:21so the smokiness can just hit the outside and it's done.

0:36:21 > 0:36:25- That's quite handy.- This was a great favourite of Edward VII

0:36:25 > 0:36:28actually, while he was Prince of Wales, you know - Bertie.

0:36:28 > 0:36:31And he used to go along to the top London hotels,

0:36:31 > 0:36:33and particularly when...

0:36:33 > 0:36:36There was a chef called - I think almost everybody has heard of him -

0:36:36 > 0:36:38Auguste Escoffier.

0:36:38 > 0:36:41- Very famous.- He used to cook at the Savoy and other hotels.

0:36:41 > 0:36:43And Bertie, as he was known to his friends,

0:36:43 > 0:36:47used to go along and have an absolutely wonderful slap-up meal,

0:36:47 > 0:36:51cooked by this fellow, who was the father of modern cuisine,

0:36:51 > 0:36:52- many people say.- Absolutely.

0:36:52 > 0:36:56And what an incredible picture to imagine, you know,

0:36:56 > 0:36:59one of the greatest chefs of all time, cooking for a king.

0:36:59 > 0:37:01Absolutely. Absolutely. Escoffier.

0:37:01 > 0:37:03That's where you get the word scoff, by the way.

0:37:03 > 0:37:05- Oh!- From Escoffier, yeah.

0:37:05 > 0:37:09- Some people say that steak Diane's a modern dish.- Hmm.

0:37:09 > 0:37:12Some people say it's Escoffier who actually invented it.

0:37:12 > 0:37:15- What's the truth? - Well, he invented the sauce.

0:37:15 > 0:37:18- Ah!- The Diane sauce, and I think he may have actually served it

0:37:18 > 0:37:21- with venison.- Actually, that would make sense,

0:37:21 > 0:37:23because Diana is the goddess of hunting.

0:37:23 > 0:37:26Exactly. I'm going to put a drop of oil in the pan now,

0:37:26 > 0:37:29so that we can get our sauce on the go.

0:37:31 > 0:37:35OK. I'm just going to give my steaks a little move.

0:37:35 > 0:37:37Now, what's the trick with those steaks?

0:37:37 > 0:37:40I don't want to cook it for too long on one side because you'll

0:37:40 > 0:37:43get this kind of deep brown ring. And what you want is the most

0:37:43 > 0:37:46kind of pink rare meat that you can get there.

0:37:46 > 0:37:48So I need to get my shallots on now.

0:37:48 > 0:37:49A nice hot pan.

0:37:53 > 0:37:55I'm going to put a bit of garlic in here as well.

0:37:55 > 0:37:58Just push that, throw it in.

0:37:58 > 0:38:00I'm going to add my mushrooms in.

0:38:00 > 0:38:02Yeah, Escoffier came over in 1899,

0:38:02 > 0:38:07and made his career in London, made his reputation in London.

0:38:07 > 0:38:09Cooked for the Royals in London.

0:38:09 > 0:38:12But you know, he never spoke English. He only spoke French.

0:38:12 > 0:38:15- Really?- I'm going to put my cognac in here.- Oh, yeah, we need cognac.

0:38:17 > 0:38:19- Oof!- Wow!

0:38:20 > 0:38:23- We want to burn off that alcohol. - Oh, you meant to do that, did you?

0:38:23 > 0:38:25Yes!

0:38:27 > 0:38:31And then once the alcohol has burnt off, I can add in my

0:38:31 > 0:38:33reduced beef stock.

0:38:33 > 0:38:36- The steaks look ready already, Anna. - Yeah. They're ready to go.

0:38:36 > 0:38:39- Oh, yeah.- So...- But they need to rest, of course.

0:38:39 > 0:38:41They need to rest. They need to relax.

0:38:41 > 0:38:43So I'm going to just chop a little bit of parsley.

0:38:43 > 0:38:46Let me get out of your way. I always admire the precision with which you

0:38:46 > 0:38:50- do that.- I'm going to put a spoonful of mustard in there now.

0:38:50 > 0:38:51Right.

0:38:51 > 0:38:54OK. A dropful of cream.

0:38:54 > 0:38:57- It's missing...two things. - Worcestershire sauce.- Two things.

0:38:57 > 0:39:00- Worcestershire sauce and butter? - Yes.

0:39:00 > 0:39:02And I like quite a little bit of a kick to my steak Diane,

0:39:02 > 0:39:04so I do put a good bit of the Worcester sauce.

0:39:04 > 0:39:07A real slug of Worcestershire sauce, you put in there.

0:39:07 > 0:39:10Yeah. And actually, while I'm waiting for that to reduce down

0:39:10 > 0:39:13a bit more, I'm going to put the gem on the barbecue.

0:39:13 > 0:39:17- So, baby gem.- Yeah. - Just trim off the end of the root.

0:39:17 > 0:39:18- Yeah.- Cut it in half.

0:39:20 > 0:39:21You're going to do this very... Oh, yes.

0:39:21 > 0:39:23- Lovely colours, aren't they?- Yeah.

0:39:23 > 0:39:26And then just brush the top with some oil.

0:39:26 > 0:39:28- And that's it, is it?- Nearly.

0:39:28 > 0:39:30- Nearly.- A little bit of salt.

0:39:30 > 0:39:32Would Escoffier have done that, do you think?

0:39:32 > 0:39:34Is it the sort of thing he would have had with it?

0:39:34 > 0:39:37He might have braised...he might have...braised baby gem.

0:39:37 > 0:39:39It's quite a classic French thing to do.

0:39:39 > 0:39:41I've noticed in posh French restaurants,

0:39:41 > 0:39:44- not that I get to them very often... - Oh, I'm sure you get to plenty.

0:39:44 > 0:39:45..they don't seem to be big on vegetables.

0:39:45 > 0:39:48I think you're going to the wrong French restaurants, then.

0:39:48 > 0:39:50Well, you're probably right. You're probably right.

0:39:50 > 0:39:53- The vegetables are the best bit. - Yeah.- Add another drop of cream.

0:39:53 > 0:39:55Actually, Escoffier was a bit of a crook.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57- Did you know that?- I didn't. This is news to me!

0:39:57 > 0:39:59- Yeah.- I can't believe you're insulting one of the most

0:39:59 > 0:40:02- famous chefs of all time.- Well, yeah.- A little bit of parsley.

0:40:02 > 0:40:05He was at the Savoy with someone else you've probably heard of,

0:40:05 > 0:40:06- called Cesar Ritz.- Ah, yes.

0:40:06 > 0:40:09Who eventually had his own hotel, it's still there in Piccadilly,

0:40:09 > 0:40:12the Ritz Hotel. But both of them worked for the Savoy.

0:40:13 > 0:40:17Oh, yes. Escoffier's nose would be twitching if he wasn't six feet

0:40:17 > 0:40:19underground. No, no, no.

0:40:19 > 0:40:23Apparently, he got caught taking backhanders from suppliers.

0:40:23 > 0:40:26- Oh, dear!- And he was kind of quietly sacked.

0:40:26 > 0:40:31Had to be quietly sacked because apparently, he cooked for

0:40:31 > 0:40:34Bertie, you know, the Prince of Wales,

0:40:34 > 0:40:38- for so long that he'd got the goods on the Prince of Wales...- Oh!

0:40:38 > 0:40:41..and his shenanigans with Lillie Langtry and so on.

0:40:41 > 0:40:45So he knew too much. So he couldn't be prosecuted or anything.

0:40:45 > 0:40:47He was just pushed out of the door and went to another hotel.

0:40:47 > 0:40:50- I did not know that. - We've got to watch you cooks.

0:40:50 > 0:40:51You know, cooks, crooks...

0:40:55 > 0:40:57- OK?- This looks pretty good now.

0:40:57 > 0:40:59Yeah. You just want to char them a bit...

0:40:59 > 0:41:02Just char them a little bit, give it another stir on the other side.

0:41:02 > 0:41:03Those steaks look good.

0:41:03 > 0:41:07That barbecue is almost cold, you might say.

0:41:07 > 0:41:10No, I wouldn't say it was cold, I was thinking just ready to eat, I'd say.

0:41:10 > 0:41:13So, what I might do now is carve our steak.

0:41:13 > 0:41:14Mm-hm.

0:41:14 > 0:41:15The moment of truth.

0:41:18 > 0:41:21Oh, look at the way that knife slides through there.

0:41:21 > 0:41:23Yes.

0:41:23 > 0:41:24I do like it rare.

0:41:24 > 0:41:26So do I. Especially fillet.

0:41:26 > 0:41:29- You want to eat your fillet rare because it's just so tender.- Mm.

0:41:29 > 0:41:32Something like a rib, you want to have that medium.

0:41:32 > 0:41:34- Yeah.- Because the fat... - You need the fat cooked, don't you?

0:41:34 > 0:41:37Yeah, yeah. Oh, that looks absolutely delicious.

0:41:37 > 0:41:40- This piece on the end, you don't need, do you?- You don't need that.

0:41:40 > 0:41:43- You can already start your tasting. - Ooh-hoo!

0:41:43 > 0:41:45That's lovely.

0:41:45 > 0:41:48Little baby gems.

0:41:50 > 0:41:53And last but certainly not least...

0:41:53 > 0:41:55The sauce. Now, how are you going to present the sauce?

0:41:55 > 0:41:57Are you going to slosh it over the top?

0:41:57 > 0:42:00I won't be sloshing anything anywhere.

0:42:00 > 0:42:03No, I'll put a little bit of the mushrooms in the centre there.

0:42:03 > 0:42:06- Yeah.- And the sauce nicely around...

0:42:06 > 0:42:09- Wow!- That's your steak Diane

0:42:09 > 0:42:12with barbecued baby gem.

0:42:12 > 0:42:13Now, tuck in.

0:42:13 > 0:42:14Wow!

0:42:16 > 0:42:18I want everything here. I want the sauce,

0:42:18 > 0:42:21I want the mushroom, I want some of the gem...

0:42:24 > 0:42:26Mm! Mm-hmm!

0:42:26 > 0:42:28Let me in.

0:42:30 > 0:42:32That's really nice.

0:42:33 > 0:42:35The meat, of course, is sensational.

0:42:35 > 0:42:38- But the Diane...- Mm.

0:42:38 > 0:42:40- That's the stuff.- Packs a punch, doesn't it?

0:42:40 > 0:42:42- Absolutely.- Is it the Worcester sauce?

0:42:42 > 0:42:46Is it the brandy, is it the cream, is it the butter...?

0:42:46 > 0:42:49I mean, it really kind of... Sharp but good, you know?

0:42:49 > 0:42:52- In a way.- Delicious. I think the key is the Worcestershire sauce.

0:42:52 > 0:42:55Yeah, I think the Worcestershire sauce absolutely makes it.

0:42:57 > 0:42:59That's really, really good.

0:42:59 > 0:43:01Escoffier was a genius.

0:43:01 > 0:43:02Rather like you, Anna.

0:43:02 > 0:43:05Join us next time for more Royal Recipes.