0:00:02 > 0:00:05CLASSICAL MUSIC PLAYS
0:00:05 > 0:00:06Hello, I'm Michael Buerk.
0:00:06 > 0:00:10Welcome to a brand-new series of Royal Recipes.
0:00:10 > 0:00:14This time we're at Westonbirt House, formerly a grand country house,
0:00:14 > 0:00:16now a boarding school,
0:00:16 > 0:00:20which has played host to royal visitors for over 100 years.
0:00:21 > 0:00:24In this series, we're delving even further back in time,
0:00:24 > 0:00:28to reveal over 600 years of royal food heritage.
0:00:28 > 0:00:32You play Anne Boleyn, and I will play Henry VIII! SHE LAUGHS
0:00:32 > 0:00:36And we've been busy unlocking the secrets of Britain's great food
0:00:36 > 0:00:40archives, discovering rare and unseen recipes that have been royal
0:00:40 > 0:00:42favourites through the ages,
0:00:42 > 0:00:46from the earliest royal cookbook in 1390...
0:00:46 > 0:00:51It's so precious, so special, that I'm not allowed to touch it.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53..to Tudor treats from the court of Henry VIII.
0:00:53 > 0:00:56- I can't wait for this! One, two, three. - LAUGHTER
0:00:59 > 0:01:02We'll be exploring the great culinary traditions enjoyed by the
0:01:02 > 0:01:05Royal family, from the grand to the ground-breaking,
0:01:05 > 0:01:08as well as the surprisingly simple...
0:01:08 > 0:01:11I did think that was going to be a disaster! LAUGHTER
0:01:11 > 0:01:14Whoo! LAUGHTER
0:01:14 > 0:01:18..as we hear from a host of royal chefs...
0:01:18 > 0:01:20Prince Philip would walk past or pop his head in and say,
0:01:20 > 0:01:23"What's for dinner, what are we having? Oh, yeah."
0:01:23 > 0:01:25It's not just a normal kitchen.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29..and meet the people who provide for the Royal table.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32It's OK for the Queen, it's OK for everyone.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34Welcome to Royal Recipes.
0:01:46 > 0:01:52There's nothing quite like a royal event for sheer scale and grandeur.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56Whether it's a royal wedding, a Jubilee, or even just a party,
0:01:56 > 0:01:59the Royals know how to do it in style,
0:01:59 > 0:02:04and the food enjoyed at these great occasions is designed to impress.
0:02:05 > 0:02:09So, we're rolling out the red carpet and sparing no expense.
0:02:16 > 0:02:18Today on Royal Recipes...
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- You might have to duck.- Oh!- Oh!
0:02:21 > 0:02:25..chef Anna Haugh creates a culinary masterpiece.
0:02:25 > 0:02:27That looks amazing.
0:02:27 > 0:02:29Oh, look at that!
0:02:30 > 0:02:34Dr Annie Gray is shown a precious antique with a peculiar
0:02:34 > 0:02:36royal claim to fame.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39This is the oldest silver chamber pot in the country.
0:02:39 > 0:02:40It's incredible!
0:02:42 > 0:02:47And chef Rob Kennedy remembers catering for a right royal occasion.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50To me, perfect recipe, fit for a king.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00With me in the Royal Recipes kitchen is executive chef Anna Haugh, and
0:03:00 > 0:03:02we're starting off in style today.
0:03:02 > 0:03:05Unless I'm very much mistaken, this is a bottle of champagne.
0:03:05 > 0:03:09- Very thoughtful of you, Anna. - Michael, that's not for you... - Why not?- ..that's for the fish.
0:03:09 > 0:03:11Ahh, so what are you cooking?
0:03:11 > 0:03:14I'm going to cook salmon in champagne today.
0:03:14 > 0:03:15That sounds really good.
0:03:15 > 0:03:19Now this is a real royal recipe from the 17th century,
0:03:19 > 0:03:22from the legendary chef Patrick Lamb,
0:03:22 > 0:03:27who was master chef to four monarchs in the 17th and 18th centuries,
0:03:27 > 0:03:29and this is one of his dishes.
0:03:29 > 0:03:30So, how does it work?
0:03:30 > 0:03:32Well, actually, you can open it,
0:03:32 > 0:03:36- as long as you promise not to drink all of it! - HE LAUGHS
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- OK.- So I'm going to start our poaching liquid.
0:03:39 > 0:03:41I've some shellfish stock here.
0:03:41 > 0:03:44OK. Woo!
0:03:45 > 0:03:48You might have to duck. SHE LAUGHS
0:03:48 > 0:03:50- Ready?- Yes. - CORK POPS
0:03:50 > 0:03:52- Oh!- Oh, my God!
0:03:52 > 0:03:54Quick, quick, quick, quick! LAUGHTER
0:03:54 > 0:03:57It takes years of practice to be able to do this, you know.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00OK, well, I'm going to use about half a bottle of champagne,
0:04:00 > 0:04:02- which is quite a lot. - It certainly is.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06I'm just going to add some bay leaf,
0:04:06 > 0:04:08some peppercorn and some sliced shallot.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12This is the recipe that Patrick Lamb did for Charles II,
0:04:12 > 0:04:15"the Merry Monarch", in the middle of the 17th century.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19- He would be merry if he was... - If he had lots of champagne! LAUGHTER
0:04:20 > 0:04:23He was quite a character, Patrick Lamb, actually.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- He was Master Chef for nearly 50 years.- Wow!
0:04:26 > 0:04:29He published this, he published this book in 1710,
0:04:29 > 0:04:31and this recipe is actually in it,
0:04:31 > 0:04:34in the book, Royal Cookery, or The Complete Court-Cook,
0:04:34 > 0:04:38"containing the choicest receipts in all the particular branches of
0:04:38 > 0:04:42"cookery now in use in the Queen's palaces."
0:04:43 > 0:04:46- So there it is.- So I'm just seasoning our salmon now,
0:04:46 > 0:04:49and I'm going to place it into the tray.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- That is a lovely, lovely piece of salmon.- It is, a beautiful piece of salmon.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56So our liquid's coming up to boil now,
0:04:56 > 0:05:00so I'm just going to pour some of the liquid on top of the fish,
0:05:00 > 0:05:02so that it cooks nice and evenly.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05It's a real luxury dish, this, isn't it?
0:05:05 > 0:05:08- It is.- I mean, that wonderful salmon, the champagne and so on.
0:05:08 > 0:05:10I suppose you've got to see it in the context of the time,
0:05:10 > 0:05:13haven't you? I mean, there's Charles II, we've had the Civil War,
0:05:13 > 0:05:16his father's head was chopped off,
0:05:16 > 0:05:20and Puritanism, and that idea of excess and luxury and
0:05:20 > 0:05:25self-indulgence was banned. It was a very stern and a strict time.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29And then you had the Restoration of the monarchy, Charles II comes back,
0:05:29 > 0:05:32and all of a sudden luxury and pleasure and everything are
0:05:32 > 0:05:35fashionable again, and that's the sort of historical context within
0:05:35 > 0:05:39which this dish was created. If you're actually saying, salmon in
0:05:39 > 0:05:42champagne, you're hitting two buttons at the same time.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45Well, it's funny that you should say that, Michael. I'm also going to add caviar to it,
0:05:45 > 0:05:49- just to add a little bit more luxury to it. - HE LAUGHS
0:05:49 > 0:05:51I'm just going to chop a little bit of dill,
0:05:51 > 0:05:54which I think has got a fabulous flavour to go with salmon.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57Round about the time that this wonderful dish was being created by
0:05:57 > 0:06:00Patrick Lamb for King Charles II, you know, an awful lot was going on at that time.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03The Court was back, luxury was back,
0:06:03 > 0:06:06but there was still, you know, big tragedies and hardships going on.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08The Great Fire of London was the same decade,
0:06:08 > 0:06:11the Plague and all that kind of stuff, so, you know,
0:06:11 > 0:06:14some people had it good and some people had it really bad.
0:06:14 > 0:06:16- Now, what are you going to do? - I'm going to lift...
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- You're going to get it out?- Yes. - Now, this is a bit of...- Get this beautiful salmon out of here.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22This is a bit of a dangerous time, isn't it?
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Yes, it is a bit of a dangerous time. - SHE LAUGHS
0:06:25 > 0:06:28- You're trying to get it out in one piece.- In one piece.
0:06:28 > 0:06:29So, let's...
0:06:31 > 0:06:34Oh, well done Anna! Well done, well done, well done! SHE GASPS
0:06:34 > 0:06:36- Look at that!- Yes!
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- Ah, you'd swear I did this for a living! - LAUGHTER
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- OK, perfect, wonderful. - Wow!- Oh, I'm delighted with that now.
0:06:43 > 0:06:45Doesn't that look utterly splendid?
0:06:45 > 0:06:47So, now I'm going...
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- Now what are you going to do?- ..to make the sauce,
0:06:49 > 0:06:53from the liquid that we poached it in.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- All that champagne?- All that champagne will not go to waste.
0:06:56 > 0:06:58I'll just grab a tea towel.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02With flavours of shellfish, with all those lovely things you stuck in.
0:07:02 > 0:07:03If you wouldn't mind, Michael,
0:07:03 > 0:07:06just to remove the shallots off the fish there for me, please.
0:07:06 > 0:07:07Oh, OK, yeah.
0:07:07 > 0:07:10Do I need to save them for eating or just get rid of them totally?
0:07:10 > 0:07:14- I think just put them on the side, yeah.- OK.
0:07:14 > 0:07:18Patrick Lamb was even more of a celebrity chef than you, Anna, I think. If that is possible!
0:07:18 > 0:07:22I mean, three coronation feasts he was responsible for,
0:07:22 > 0:07:25and the one for William and Mary in 1689,
0:07:25 > 0:07:29the feast cost the equivalent these days of £1 million...
0:07:29 > 0:07:31- It's incredible.- ..which is amazing.
0:07:31 > 0:07:36- It's incredible.- But get this, he himself was paid, for that one meal,
0:07:36 > 0:07:38by the Royals, £100.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- It doesn't sound much now. - It doesn't sound much.
0:07:40 > 0:07:42- £20,000. - For one meal?- For one meal.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45Do you know, that's even more than you get?
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- That's a lot more than I get! - LAUGHTER
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- Come on, what's happening over here? - OK.- Lots of sizzle.- Just bringing up the cooking liquid to the boil.
0:07:51 > 0:07:53I'm going to add the cream to it.
0:07:53 > 0:07:57- Right.- So this needs a pinch of salt, just a little pinch of salt in there.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- I'm going to give it another... - A little whisk round.- Yeah.
0:08:02 > 0:08:04So I'm just going to whisk in some butter.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07- Oh, it's not rich enough, eh?! - Not rich enough! - LAUGHTER
0:08:07 > 0:08:11If you whisk in the butter too soon, it will split.
0:08:11 > 0:08:14You do all these things gradually, don't you?
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- Gradually, slowly, slowly.- You don't sort of slosh, slosh around.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20OK, it looks like our butter's all whisked in there now.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22So now we're going to add in our caviar.
0:08:22 > 0:08:25At the last minute. There might be some left?
0:08:25 > 0:08:28There might be some left to have with a glass of champagne afterwards.
0:08:28 > 0:08:31Absolutely. Ooh, yes, talking of which, have we got any glasses?
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- Yeah.- Yeah.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36- There we go.- OK, So I'm going to dress this now with some beautiful...
0:08:36 > 0:08:42- Put the glasses there.- ..watercress, a little bit of pea shoots.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44So I'm just going to put a little bit of olive oil on these.
0:08:44 > 0:08:47So how are you going to put the sauce on?
0:08:47 > 0:08:49I'm going to pour it into a jug first.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54So I'm going to just pour it over the top of the fish.
0:08:54 > 0:08:57Right over the top. Oh, look at that.
0:08:57 > 0:08:58And then I'm going to finish it now...
0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Yep.- ..with some lemon zest.
0:09:01 > 0:09:07- Zest of lemon.- And what goes so well with this is just some lovely crusty
0:09:07 > 0:09:10bread, and if you like a little bit of mayonnaise before you break your
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- salmon, go ahead. - Mayonnaise as well! HE CHUCKLES
0:09:13 > 0:09:16And, of course, what we desperately need with this is champagne.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- Would you like to pour it?- I would like to, well I'd like to drink it,
0:09:19 > 0:09:21I don't know about pour it. Here we go.
0:09:21 > 0:09:23Observe the fine technique.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25I think you've done this before, Michael.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28- Yeah, yeah. Cheers. - Cheers.- Right.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- Come on, let's have a go. - Right, onto the bread.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- Are you going to put it on the bread?- Yeah.- OK. There we go.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- Mmm!- Mmm!
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- Oh, it's lovely, isn't it?- Mmm.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44You cooked the salmon beautifully.
0:09:44 > 0:09:46The sauce is great.
0:09:47 > 0:09:51Salmon in champagne, fit for the Merry Monarch himself!
0:09:52 > 0:09:57A luxurious royal recipe, and just the thing for a regal banquet.
0:10:04 > 0:10:10And no royal occasion is complete without liberal quantities of booze.
0:10:10 > 0:10:14One of Britain's oldest purveyors of wines and spirits has been supplying
0:10:14 > 0:10:17the Royal family since the beginning of the last century.
0:10:19 > 0:10:23Wine expert Joe Fattorini went to the centre of Mayfair
0:10:23 > 0:10:26to uncork the story.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30Berry Bros & Rudd has an illustrious history, stretching back over 315
0:10:30 > 0:10:33years, based here at 3 St James's Street,
0:10:33 > 0:10:37opposite St James's Palace in the fashionable heart of London.
0:10:37 > 0:10:42You could say, from the outset, it's always had a royal connection.
0:10:42 > 0:10:45Being neighbours with the reigning monarch was a good start for the
0:10:45 > 0:10:50business. Simon Berry is the eighth generation of his family to work at
0:10:50 > 0:10:52this supplier of fine wines.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00But it hasn't always sold wine.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06The business itself started in 1698,
0:11:06 > 0:11:10founded by a lady called the Widow Bourne.
0:11:10 > 0:11:12We don't know anything else about her,
0:11:12 > 0:11:16we don't even know her Christian name, and she decided to open
0:11:16 > 0:11:19a shop, basically, selling groceries,
0:11:19 > 0:11:23specialising quite soon in tea and coffee.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25The most expensive drinks of their day.
0:11:25 > 0:11:30Her most expensive tea cost £10 for a pound of tea, and this was at a
0:11:30 > 0:11:35time when the average wage was £15 a year.
0:11:35 > 0:11:40So that makes some of these bottles look marvellously cheap in comparison.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46It was the Widow Bourne's daughter who first sold goods to royalty.
0:11:47 > 0:11:49Crikey! '43 Charon blanc!
0:11:50 > 0:11:54George III bought their coffee during the 1700s.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57Later that century, they began to specialise in wine.
0:11:59 > 0:12:03That's really good stuff, and very expensive.
0:12:04 > 0:12:08By the 1900s, they were supplying a different king with booze.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14In 1903, King Edward VII bought
0:12:14 > 0:12:18himself a horseless carriage,
0:12:18 > 0:12:21which was a Daimler, and it was an open car,
0:12:21 > 0:12:23like all cars were in those days.
0:12:23 > 0:12:281903 was a very cold winter, and his doctor was very concerned that
0:12:28 > 0:12:31His Majesty might contract a bit of pneumonia.
0:12:31 > 0:12:33So he came to us and said,
0:12:33 > 0:12:40"Could you produce a warming cordial that His Majesty can drink as he is
0:12:40 > 0:12:45driving the car? And incidentally, you better make it nice and strong."
0:12:45 > 0:12:50And for 30 years we only sold it to the Royal family.
0:12:50 > 0:12:54You couldn't buy it from us unless you were royal.
0:12:54 > 0:12:56It's got a lovely sort of gingery afterglow.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58- Oh, yes.- But it is good and strong, isn't it?
0:12:58 > 0:13:00But nowadays you can't really say,
0:13:00 > 0:13:04"Why don't you have a bottle in your glove compartment when you're driving along the M4?"
0:13:04 > 0:13:06I'm not sure that would go down very well.
0:13:06 > 0:13:09Yes, how times have moved on.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12Does this still gets sold to the Royal household today?
0:13:12 > 0:13:15I'm not sure I'm allowed to tell you that, but, yes, it does.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18The company has held a plethora of royal warrants.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23Simon sells wine to both the Queen and Prince Charles.
0:13:23 > 0:13:24Ask away...
0:13:24 > 0:13:27But he has another rather special role -
0:13:27 > 0:13:29he's the official Clerk of the Royal Cellars.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36I run a committee who, every so often, meet to taste the wines
0:13:36 > 0:13:41that will be served at Buckingham Palace or Sandringham or Balmoral,
0:13:41 > 0:13:44which is a nice thing to do.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46And how do you come across a role like this?
0:13:46 > 0:13:49It's not something that you see advertised in the back of the Metro!
0:13:49 > 0:13:51LAUGHTER
0:13:51 > 0:13:55The reason why I was appointed is because I'm unbelievably discreet.
0:13:55 > 0:13:57LAUGHTER
0:13:57 > 0:14:01Today, Simon helps select the wine for the Royal household,
0:14:01 > 0:14:03but back in the 1920s,
0:14:03 > 0:14:07his shop stocked the cellar of a far smaller regal home.
0:14:09 > 0:14:13Now, then, Simon, what is this?
0:14:13 > 0:14:17Well, this is probably the most royal collection of bottles
0:14:17 > 0:14:18that we have.
0:14:18 > 0:14:24These are the bottles that were created for Queen Mary's dolls' house,
0:14:24 > 0:14:28which is this amazing dolls' house.
0:14:28 > 0:14:33It was something that was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens,
0:14:33 > 0:14:35the most famous architect of his day.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38There's running water, there's electric light,
0:14:38 > 0:14:41and there is a cellar of wine.
0:14:41 > 0:14:46And we were commissioned to produce these bottles,
0:14:46 > 0:14:49and whatever it says on the label,
0:14:49 > 0:14:51the bottles contain.
0:14:51 > 0:14:53There are some of your own labels.
0:14:53 > 0:14:58Ah, there's, there's a cognac here, there is some sherry.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01You know, my favourite thing is this, is the record book,
0:15:01 > 0:15:03and it has "received" and then "consumed".
0:15:03 > 0:15:06And there are items that have been consumed.
0:15:06 > 0:15:07Oh, yes, well, you know, thirsty dolls.
0:15:07 > 0:15:10Absolutely, I love it. I love it.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23So, should you or I ever be invited to a royal celebration,
0:15:23 > 0:15:26you'll know that you're in very safe hands.
0:15:33 > 0:15:36Talking of wine, in 1972,
0:15:36 > 0:15:40the story goes that the Queen hosted a dinner for the French president at
0:15:40 > 0:15:44the time, George Pompidou, and she wanted English wine.
0:15:45 > 0:15:48So they ordered some English wine to be sent to France,
0:15:48 > 0:15:51to the Paris embassy where it was all taking place.
0:15:51 > 0:15:54But it was impounded. The English wine was impounded by French customs.
0:15:54 > 0:15:57And when the French customs officer was asked why, afterwards, he said,
0:15:57 > 0:16:01"It says here, English wine. There is no such thing."
0:16:01 > 0:16:04LAUGHTER
0:16:04 > 0:16:05- Do you like English wine?- Yes.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09Especially sparkling English wine, I think is really fantastic.
0:16:09 > 0:16:11There's a lot of politics, isn't there,
0:16:11 > 0:16:13where the Royal family put on a banquet or something,
0:16:13 > 0:16:16there's politics and etiquette.
0:16:16 > 0:16:18- Were you taught etiquette at chefs' school?- Yes.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20You know, how to set the table and all that?
0:16:20 > 0:16:22We did, like, a couple of weeks of training,
0:16:22 > 0:16:24but really that's more for the front of house.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27Our main focus was really on cooking and...and shouting.
0:16:27 > 0:16:29LAUGHTER
0:16:29 > 0:16:31No, I think it's quite... I've got,
0:16:31 > 0:16:35I've got a list here from the bible of etiquette, which is Debrett's.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39You know, utensils placed in the order of use, from the outside in.
0:16:39 > 0:16:44- Yes.- Obviously, forks on the left, knives on the right, tumbler for the water.- Yep.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46A different glass for white and red wine.
0:16:46 > 0:16:48Bigger for the red. Why is that?
0:16:48 > 0:16:52I think to allow the wine to breathe, so you can get the bouquet.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55But at the big royal occasions, all those courses,
0:16:55 > 0:16:58different wine for each course, it's amazing people were still
0:16:58 > 0:17:00in a condition to walk out at the end of it.
0:17:00 > 0:17:05I'm sure a few of them weren't in any good condition to be walking out.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08It's not known whether one royal occasion in particular left guests
0:17:08 > 0:17:10the worse for wine.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13But the dinner has gone down in history as
0:17:13 > 0:17:15an especially pomp-filled event.
0:17:17 > 0:17:21Back in 1850, Prince Albert attended an extraordinary banquet that was
0:17:21 > 0:17:24held in his honour in the city of York.
0:17:24 > 0:17:25Annie Gray tells us more.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30Putting on a dinner for a prince means you've really got to impress.
0:17:30 > 0:17:34Everything, from the decor to the people to the food itself,
0:17:34 > 0:17:37has got to scream, "effort".
0:17:37 > 0:17:41The grand feast was hosted at the Guildhall in Mansion House,
0:17:41 > 0:17:44home to the Burghers of York since the 1700s.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47Richard Pollitt is the curator there.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52Richard, paint a picture for me of what it would have looked like when
0:17:52 > 0:17:54Prince Albert walked into this room.
0:17:54 > 0:17:57Well, if you can imagine, this entire hall bedecked by tables
0:17:57 > 0:18:00with beautiful white damask cloth.
0:18:00 > 0:18:04He will have passed city maces hanging from the columns,
0:18:04 > 0:18:07and a massive ornamental vase where the stained glass window is today.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11So it sounds like a really big occasion. How many people came?
0:18:11 > 0:18:13Well, there's 280 invited guests.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15- Wow!- But on top of that,
0:18:15 > 0:18:18there would be at least 100 liveried servants,
0:18:18 > 0:18:21there would be musicians, and also a select number of ladies were invited
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- to watch the gentlemen eat the feast.- To watch the gentlemen eat?
0:18:25 > 0:18:29- I'm afraid so.- Lucky ladies(!)
0:18:29 > 0:18:32Now, behind us, I keep catching glimpses of light glimmering off
0:18:32 > 0:18:36silver, and I'm assuming this is the kind of thing they were eating off.
0:18:36 > 0:18:42Yes, it... Some of the silver we have behind us are very much day-to-day, sort of, eating wares,
0:18:42 > 0:18:46but we do have one very important piece of silver.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48Come on, then.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54Tell me what we've got here.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56Explain what these vessels would have been used for.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58Well, essentially, these are serving dishes.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02Now, every piece, though, has got the city coat of arms on, right in
0:19:02 > 0:19:06the middle. This is part of the city promoting itself.
0:19:06 > 0:19:08This is marketing the city.
0:19:08 > 0:19:10You're not going to mistake where you are, are you?
0:19:10 > 0:19:14The idea of something just gradually taking food from it to uncover that
0:19:14 > 0:19:16York crest is quite fun, really.
0:19:18 > 0:19:22But there's one particular piece of silverware used by Prince Albert
0:19:22 > 0:19:25which he wouldn't have been eating off.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28This is the oldest silver chamber pot in the country.
0:19:28 > 0:19:30It's incredible.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33It's really quite beautiful, isn't it? Very simple design.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36And York crests absolutely everywhere.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38And what does it say on it? 1672.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- Oh, my goodness. - It was made in York,
0:19:40 > 0:19:43by a chap called Marmaduke Best.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46And certainly this would be reserved for the top table guests.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49So, when Albert was caught short halfway through dinner,
0:19:49 > 0:19:52it's this that he would have been using to relieve himself.
0:19:52 > 0:19:54He probably nipped to the little anteroom
0:19:54 > 0:19:57and would have used this pot.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59- Well, perfectly logical. - SHE LAUGHS
0:20:03 > 0:20:06And if that's not enough to put you off your dinner, onto the menu.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11The feast was prepared in the kitchens of Mansion House by a
0:20:11 > 0:20:14French celebrity chef, Alexis Soyer,
0:20:14 > 0:20:17arguably the most celebrated cook of the time.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25Alexis Soyer is a bit of a hero to me.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29So, hearing that he cooked here for this banquet for Prince Albert is
0:20:29 > 0:20:32really quite exciting. What was on the menu?
0:20:32 > 0:20:35The first course had 32 different types of soup. The second course,
0:20:35 > 0:20:3840 roasts.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42And most of the food has an exotic French-sounding name,
0:20:42 > 0:20:45so it's, "a la Lady Mayoress", "a la Albert".
0:20:45 > 0:20:48I mean, this space just doesn't seem big enough to supply a banquet for
0:20:48 > 0:20:51280-odd people.
0:20:51 > 0:20:52I have no idea how they did it.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56I note that you sidled round my favourite dish from this particular banquet.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59Well, to be honest, there's one particularly disgusting thing
0:20:59 > 0:21:01they did create.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05The 100 guinea dish. Which is ...
0:21:05 > 0:21:08it essentially cost 100 guineas, but its main ingredient,
0:21:08 > 0:21:10a most startling ingredient,
0:21:10 > 0:21:13was turtle's heads with, sort of,
0:21:13 > 0:21:16kebab skewers shooting out their mouths,
0:21:16 > 0:21:20with other sort of animal parts attached to it.
0:21:20 > 0:21:24And this was presented as the best
0:21:24 > 0:21:27creation that Alexis Soyer would put together for this banquet.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30I think the 100 guinea dish must've been spectacular.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33You've got the oysters from turkeys, you've got bits of wood,
0:21:33 > 0:21:35got the prawns leaping out of it.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- It's really quite disgusting. - LAUGHTER
0:21:39 > 0:21:41Shocking by modern standards,
0:21:41 > 0:21:45that dish cost the equivalent of over £10,000 today.
0:21:46 > 0:21:49With ten times that spent on the event,
0:21:49 > 0:21:52York's Lord Mayor was clearly out to impress.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58The banquet held here in 1850 must've been really magical.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02To see this room decked out with buntings and flags and with the
0:22:02 > 0:22:07tables just absolutely piled high with magnificent dishes, cooked by
0:22:07 > 0:22:10one of my culinary heroes, Alexis Soyer,
0:22:10 > 0:22:13I would have loved to have been here with Prince Albert.
0:22:19 > 0:22:23That lavish affair would certainly have been something to behold.
0:22:28 > 0:22:31Now, come on, what could you do that can possibly measure up?
0:22:31 > 0:22:33Well, I don't know if it's worth £10,000,
0:22:33 > 0:22:35but I'm going to make a pulpatoon today,
0:22:35 > 0:22:38which is a multi-bird roast dish.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42So that's one bird inside another bird inside another bird.
0:22:42 > 0:22:44- Exactly.- So what's inside what?
0:22:44 > 0:22:48So we'll start off with the biggest bird, it'll be the turkey,
0:22:48 > 0:22:51then it will be a duck, and then it will be, last, chicken.
0:22:51 > 0:22:55But first of all, I'm going to show you how to batten out some of the
0:22:55 > 0:22:59meat, cos you need to flatten out the meat, so that you can roll it into a ballotine.
0:22:59 > 0:23:02When you say batten out, you mean beat the devil out of it.
0:23:02 > 0:23:05- Yes.- Yep.- You want to cover with the clingfilm, because you want to protect the
0:23:05 > 0:23:08meat, even though you're going to beat it up.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11You don't want the rolling pin sticking to the meat and ripping it.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- Certainly not.- So what's best is kind of consistent gentle taps,
0:23:15 > 0:23:17as opposed to, like, really aggressive beating.
0:23:18 > 0:23:21Do you think this is a bit of a self-indulgence?
0:23:21 > 0:23:22I mean, not you, I mean, you know,
0:23:22 > 0:23:25somebody who wants one bird stuffed inside another bird,
0:23:25 > 0:23:29inside another bird, a bit of a novelty rather than a bit of haute cuisine.
0:23:29 > 0:23:31Well, I think it's interesting.
0:23:31 > 0:23:33I think the flavours are interesting together.
0:23:33 > 0:23:36But also it creates quite a large ballotine,
0:23:36 > 0:23:39so it's a good way to kind of prepare food for a group of people.
0:23:39 > 0:23:41And it's the history, isn't it?
0:23:41 > 0:23:45You know, it's been that sort of wonderful banqueting dish, way back
0:23:45 > 0:23:49into history of the Tudor court, they'd have dozens of songbirds,
0:23:49 > 0:23:53rather like that 100 guinea meal, you know, the biggest one
0:23:53 > 0:23:56would be, what, a swan or a peacock or something like that,
0:23:56 > 0:23:58right down to the little quail right in the middle.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- Incredible.- Yeah.
0:24:00 > 0:24:02OK, so, that's your duck and your chicken.
0:24:02 > 0:24:06You've almost doubled the kind of area of the flesh.
0:24:06 > 0:24:11Yeah. So I've also actually flattened out some bacon here as well.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13Now what kind of bacon are you using here?
0:24:13 > 0:24:14Smoky and streaky.
0:24:14 > 0:24:18Beautiful, delicious smoky flavour, and the fat to add a little bit
0:24:18 > 0:24:22more, kind of, that and moisture to the three-bird roast, because this
0:24:22 > 0:24:26is turkey breast, duck breast and chicken breast, so they're all...
0:24:26 > 0:24:29- Not much fat.- Yeah, they're all quite lean.
0:24:29 > 0:24:31So the bacon kind of helps reinforce that,
0:24:31 > 0:24:35as will the forcemeat that we'll be adding in, in between the layers as
0:24:35 > 0:24:37- well.- So, what is it?
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- Forcemeat?- It's a stuffing made of turkey, chicken and duck legs.
0:24:40 > 0:24:43A few down the centre.
0:24:43 > 0:24:46OK, so we're ready to place our turkey,
0:24:46 > 0:24:49so I'm going to season the meat.
0:24:49 > 0:24:51And this is very important.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54A little bit of beautiful, freshly cracked pepper.
0:24:55 > 0:24:57Now, you're going to put the forcemeat...
0:24:57 > 0:24:59- Yes.- ..in between each layer?
0:24:59 > 0:25:02- That's right.- And you've also put some herbs in there, by the look of
0:25:02 > 0:25:06- it.- Yeah.- What sort of thing have you got?- Chopped parsley, a little bit of thyme as well.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09- OK.- OK. - Then we layer on our duck breast.
0:25:09 > 0:25:14- And the duck next?- I'm just going to season the duck meat as well.
0:25:14 > 0:25:17- Once more, yeah. - Once more, don't be shy.
0:25:17 > 0:25:21There is a long tradition of these kind of bolted-together dishes,
0:25:21 > 0:25:24you know, going all the way back to... There was a dish called...
0:25:24 > 0:25:27Oh, what was it? It was called the cockentrice.
0:25:27 > 0:25:29That's a catchy name.
0:25:29 > 0:25:33Yeah, yeah, yeah. The idea was that they got the head of
0:25:33 > 0:25:37- a suckling pig...- Mm-hmm.- ..and the kind of rear of a turkey,
0:25:37 > 0:25:39and they sewed them together.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42Stuffed them and sewed them together.
0:25:42 > 0:25:44- What do you think all that was about?- Drama.
0:25:44 > 0:25:47- That's just drama.- Well, yeah, drama. But I've got a theory.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51Because that was about the time, you know, just after Columbus and all that sort of thing,
0:25:51 > 0:25:54and people were venturing off into these wild places,
0:25:54 > 0:25:59the Americas and the South Seas and round Africa and so on,
0:25:59 > 0:26:02and the sailors were coming back with stories of monsters,
0:26:02 > 0:26:05and, you know, "Here be dragons," and all that kind of stuff
0:26:05 > 0:26:08and I think, you know, people in the kitchen thought,
0:26:08 > 0:26:11"Oh, I can knock up a monster. I can knock up something strange and exotic."
0:26:11 > 0:26:15- And they did.- And they did. - A pirkey. - LAUGHTER
0:26:15 > 0:26:20Yeah, a pirkey. A new dish is born, well done.
0:26:20 > 0:26:24Next, I'm going to put the chicken breasts in.
0:26:24 > 0:26:27You can see, with each layer, it's slightly smaller and slightly smaller,
0:26:27 > 0:26:32- because you want to be able to roll the ballotine.- Yep. My word, look at that.
0:26:32 > 0:26:35- A little mountain of meat. - OK.- A striated mountain.
0:26:35 > 0:26:37Now it's time to roll.
0:26:37 > 0:26:41I'm going to bring it over, over, over, over.
0:26:41 > 0:26:43Pull it in tight,
0:26:43 > 0:26:46and I'm going to tuck this turkey just under a little bit...
0:26:49 > 0:26:51and squeeze it over again.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54- Oh, you've made a giant sausage. - Yes.- It's not going to get away now.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56Seal it nice and tight.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59And what you need to do is chill that for maybe...
0:26:59 > 0:27:01overnight, if you can.
0:27:01 > 0:27:05And what that will do is, that will set all the meat up together,
0:27:05 > 0:27:08and when you go to transfer it into the tinfoil,
0:27:08 > 0:27:10it'll just leave it as a piece.
0:27:10 > 0:27:12- Yeah.- You'll butter the tinfoil and place that on,
0:27:12 > 0:27:16so I've actually roasted one of these already, and you'll find it
0:27:16 > 0:27:17just over there, if you want to grab it.
0:27:17 > 0:27:20- I'll get it. Yep, yep, here we go. - I'll get rid of these.
0:27:22 > 0:27:26So I cooked this for about two hours at 160 degrees.
0:27:26 > 0:27:28160, that's quite low.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31Then I turned the oven up,
0:27:31 > 0:27:33for another hour, to about 180.
0:27:33 > 0:27:35It's really heavy, really quite a
0:27:35 > 0:27:37- lot of meat there.- There's a lot of meat here.
0:27:37 > 0:27:40Oh, it's going to be brilliant, I just know it.
0:27:40 > 0:27:42- Oh, yes. - HE CHUCKLES
0:27:42 > 0:27:45- That looks amazing. - Oh, look at that!
0:27:45 > 0:27:48OK. So you're just going to have to wait a little bit longer before I
0:27:48 > 0:27:50get carving, cos I'm going to get the veg on.
0:27:50 > 0:27:53Quite simple, since there's a lot going on with the meat,
0:27:53 > 0:27:58I thought I'd do some mashed potato and some blanched broccoli.
0:27:58 > 0:28:00Got some nice chicken sauce here,
0:28:00 > 0:28:05so that's reduced down chicken stock, with a little bit of thyme.
0:28:05 > 0:28:07So I'm just going to whisk in some butter.
0:28:07 > 0:28:09I mean, it looks really impressive, doesn't it?
0:28:09 > 0:28:11I mean, it's not quite
0:28:11 > 0:28:16the 100 guinea dish, if I may say so, with its turtles' heads,
0:28:16 > 0:28:19its capons, its turkeys, its poulardes, its fowls,
0:28:19 > 0:28:21its grouse, its pheasants,
0:28:21 > 0:28:25its partridges, its plovers, its woodcock, its quails, its snipe,
0:28:25 > 0:28:29its green pigeons, its larks, and all the rest.
0:28:29 > 0:28:31Oh, my goodness!
0:28:31 > 0:28:35- You've got three.- I'm so grateful that I just had three. - THEY CHUCKLE
0:28:35 > 0:28:40- Mm-hmm.- OK, so I'll turn them down low...- OK.- ..and I think it's time to carve.- I think it probably is.
0:28:40 > 0:28:42Oh, that does look good, doesn't it?
0:28:42 > 0:28:46- Already.- Oh, wow, look at that!- That chicken look...
0:28:46 > 0:28:48- Yes!- So you can see your...
0:28:48 > 0:28:54obviously your bacon, your turkey, forcemeat, duck, more forcemeat,
0:28:54 > 0:28:57- and your chicken. - You've got the lot.
0:28:57 > 0:28:59- Our veg should be ready now.- OK.
0:29:00 > 0:29:04- Do you want this plate? - Yes, perfect.- OK.- OK.
0:29:05 > 0:29:09- So we have our mash. - Creamy, very buttery mash.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12- Lovely, hot, beautiful broccoli. - Beautiful green broccoli.
0:29:12 > 0:29:15- That's great. - And last but not least...
0:29:16 > 0:29:19Oh, look at that!
0:29:21 > 0:29:25- OK, tuck in. Tuck in. - Absolutely. After you, Madam Chef.
0:29:25 > 0:29:27SHE CHUCKLES
0:29:27 > 0:29:29I want a little bit of everything.
0:29:29 > 0:29:32Yeah, and that's the trick, that's the challenge,
0:29:32 > 0:29:34to get a bit of everything in your mouth at the same time.
0:29:35 > 0:29:39- Fortunately, I've got a big enough mouth to be able to do this.- Mmm!
0:29:41 > 0:29:43Oh, look at all that!
0:29:43 > 0:29:46You know, bird in the hand's worth three in the bush,
0:29:46 > 0:29:49or three in the mouth, I suppose. There you go. SHE LAUGHS
0:29:51 > 0:29:53Mmm. Oh, I like that!
0:29:53 > 0:29:56Do you know, I didn't have very high expectations of this.
0:29:56 > 0:29:58I thought it was just a gimmick, really,
0:29:58 > 0:30:01but it's a dish suitable for any, you know, special occasion,
0:30:01 > 0:30:04isn't it, really? A kind of, how can I put it,
0:30:04 > 0:30:06a 50-guinea dish. LAUGHTER
0:30:07 > 0:30:12A cut-price 100-guinea dish, but nonetheless impressive at that.
0:30:18 > 0:30:22A chef who's no stranger to a bit of Royal pomp and circumstance
0:30:22 > 0:30:27is Rob Kennedy. He's based at the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst,
0:30:27 > 0:30:32and has cooked for the Queen and other members of the Royal family several times.
0:30:32 > 0:30:36One occasion was a lavish dinner hosted by Prince Charles,
0:30:36 > 0:30:39for no fewer than seven Middle Eastern monarchs.
0:30:43 > 0:30:47This extravagant supper was a celebration of Sandhurst's 200-year
0:30:47 > 0:30:51anniversary and its tradition of welcoming overseas cadets,
0:30:51 > 0:30:54including many Arabian royals over the years.
0:30:57 > 0:31:00With seven foreign kings and a future King of England
0:31:00 > 0:31:03in attendance, it required a show-stopping menu.
0:31:04 > 0:31:07For the Middle Eastern dinner at Old College,
0:31:07 > 0:31:09I cooked for the main course a lovely beef dish,
0:31:09 > 0:31:12and that's what we're going to be showing you now.
0:31:12 > 0:31:15Top royal dining.
0:31:15 > 0:31:17When Prince Charles hosts such grand meals,
0:31:17 > 0:31:21only the finest British ingredients are used.
0:31:21 > 0:31:24Rob starts with a mini braised beef pudding.
0:31:24 > 0:31:29He begins by caramelising seasonal root vegetables in a hot pan with
0:31:29 > 0:31:32garlic, thyme, and star anise.
0:31:32 > 0:31:34So, we're going to keep the same pan now,
0:31:34 > 0:31:38and we've got this beautiful piece of cheek.
0:31:38 > 0:31:41And all of this fat here is going to become gelatinous
0:31:41 > 0:31:42and sticky and yummy.
0:31:42 > 0:31:45So we pop that into our pan
0:31:45 > 0:31:49and just let that colour and caramelise.
0:31:50 > 0:31:52Once the beef is lightly browned,
0:31:52 > 0:31:56Rob pops the veg back into the frying pan with a teaspoon of
0:31:56 > 0:32:00tomato puree and a pint of beef stock.
0:32:00 > 0:32:04You can see there, it's a lovely, nice jelly of beef stock.
0:32:07 > 0:32:10He brings it to the boil before transferring the whole lot into a
0:32:10 > 0:32:14- covered saucepan. - And then in it goes.
0:32:14 > 0:32:19And braising it for six and a half hours at 150 Celsius.
0:32:20 > 0:32:25When the slow-cooking is complete, the beef will be tender and melting.
0:32:25 > 0:32:26Absolutely yummy.
0:32:26 > 0:32:30It's then removed from the liquid with some of the veg and left to cool.
0:32:30 > 0:32:33And if a couple of bits of onion or thyme are in there,
0:32:33 > 0:32:35it doesn't matter.
0:32:35 > 0:32:38Just make sure it's not the star anise.
0:32:38 > 0:32:41That would kind of be a little bit crunchy.
0:32:41 > 0:32:44The remaining gravy is strained and reserved for service.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49Rob then takes flour, suet, water,
0:32:49 > 0:32:52and a little salt, and whips up a rich pastry.
0:32:53 > 0:32:57When I had this Middle Eastern dinner, the closest I've probably
0:32:57 > 0:33:01got to that many kings was four in a pack of cards, so, you know, a real,
0:33:01 > 0:33:05real achievement, and something I believe will never, ever, ever
0:33:05 > 0:33:09have been done, definitely in my culinary career, or probably done,
0:33:09 > 0:33:11you know, in the history of Sandhurst again.
0:33:11 > 0:33:13So, what an honour, what an absolute honour!
0:33:15 > 0:33:19Rob rolls out small discs of pastry and adds the braised beef cheek.
0:33:22 > 0:33:25He then moulds them into dumplings.
0:33:26 > 0:33:29I'm going to wrap that in clingfilm, so that goes in there.
0:33:30 > 0:33:33It comes up, and we put its raincoat on.
0:33:35 > 0:33:37Give it a nice twist.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40This way, you get to make them perfectly round,
0:33:40 > 0:33:42and then you get your little clingfilm tie,
0:33:42 > 0:33:44and then you just go round.
0:33:45 > 0:33:48And then at the end of it, you get the two together,
0:33:48 > 0:33:50and simply tie a knot.
0:33:52 > 0:33:55Take the scissors and cut off.
0:33:56 > 0:33:58And that there is your beautiful
0:33:58 > 0:34:00braised beef pudding,
0:34:00 > 0:34:03ready to steam for 50 minutes.
0:34:05 > 0:34:09Once the steamer's nice and hot, and the water's boiling,
0:34:09 > 0:34:11pop it in there and that will then cook.
0:34:13 > 0:34:16Rob has already marinated a fillet of steak in star anise,
0:34:16 > 0:34:18thyme and garlic for 12 hours.
0:34:20 > 0:34:25He lightly seals the steak in a hot pan with herbs and butter...
0:34:25 > 0:34:27Smells delicious.
0:34:27 > 0:34:31..before roasting it at 180 degrees for eight minutes.
0:34:32 > 0:34:35During the meal, I guess, no-one really puts their hands up and says,
0:34:35 > 0:34:37"Thanks very much, it's great."
0:34:37 > 0:34:39However, on most of the events...
0:34:39 > 0:34:42Well, in fact, maybe a bit modest, in all of the events we've done,
0:34:42 > 0:34:45we've always had clean plates, so we're doing something right.
0:34:45 > 0:34:49It'd be nice to have a letter, though, you know, or an MBE.
0:34:49 > 0:34:51HE LAUGHS
0:34:51 > 0:34:55Rob plates up the steak with a garnish of baby root vegetables,
0:34:55 > 0:34:58creamed potato and sauteed cabbage.
0:34:58 > 0:35:01All that's left is the mini beef pudding.
0:35:03 > 0:35:07And that little suet dumpling pudding can just sit in there,
0:35:07 > 0:35:09very proud, very precise.
0:35:12 > 0:35:16The dish is completed by adding the braised gravy, baby watercress,
0:35:16 > 0:35:19and a dusting of dehydrated horseradish.
0:35:19 > 0:35:22This dish was designed to be special but be British,
0:35:22 > 0:35:25and celebrate Sandhurst and 200 years,
0:35:25 > 0:35:30but more importantly, show off to our visiting guests, being the kings, of what we can produce.
0:35:32 > 0:35:35MUSIC: ZADOK THE PRIEST by HANDEL
0:35:43 > 0:35:45To me, perfect recipe,
0:35:45 > 0:35:47fit for a king.
0:35:55 > 0:36:00I would've thought catering for so many heads of state would be pretty daunting, wouldn't you, Anna?
0:36:00 > 0:36:02- Yeah.- I mean, imagine them all in your restaurant.
0:36:02 > 0:36:05Imagine them being able to afford it. LAUGHTER
0:36:05 > 0:36:07- What are you doing now?- I'm going to make Black Forest gateau.
0:36:07 > 0:36:10Ah! Now this is in honour of Queen Victoria, isn't it...
0:36:10 > 0:36:14- Yes.- ..because she loved chocolate and she loved cherries,
0:36:14 > 0:36:15and her mother was German,
0:36:15 > 0:36:18and of course her father was from the British Royal family that were
0:36:18 > 0:36:21originally German, so she loved everything German, cherries,
0:36:21 > 0:36:24chocolate - Black Forest gateau. Come on, what do you do first?
0:36:24 > 0:36:27OK, so the first thing I'm going to make is the last thing we'll be
0:36:27 > 0:36:30putting on the cake, which is the cherry topping.
0:36:30 > 0:36:34So we have some fresh cherries that have been stoned.
0:36:34 > 0:36:39- They look fabulous.- I'm just going to mix a little bit of water in with cornflour.
0:36:39 > 0:36:41It's the cherry brandy, isn't it?
0:36:41 > 0:36:42- That's the key thing.- Yes.
0:36:42 > 0:36:45- The kirsch.- Where is it? Where is the cherry brandy?
0:36:45 > 0:36:48- Well, it's in here, it's got some cherries soaking in it.- Aaah.
0:36:48 > 0:36:52It's called, actually, I think German, the Schwarzwalder Kirschwasser,
0:36:52 > 0:36:56which means Black Forest cherry brandy, I suppose.
0:36:56 > 0:36:58- You sound like a native.- Well, I am.
0:36:58 > 0:37:01My family originally came from the Black Forest long ago.
0:37:01 > 0:37:03Oh, yeah. OK,
0:37:03 > 0:37:07so I've just added a spoonful of cherry compote in here as well.
0:37:07 > 0:37:11- Right.- And I'm just going to add them to the cherries and just give it a stir.
0:37:11 > 0:37:16So, the cherries, that was Queen Victoria's all-time favourite, I think.
0:37:16 > 0:37:19- She had cherries...- Oh, really? - Yeah. She didn't have Black Forest gateau,
0:37:19 > 0:37:24but she had cherries with rice pudding at her Golden Jubilee dinner
0:37:24 > 0:37:27in Windsor, in 1887.
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- OK, now what?- Right, so we're going to make a sabayon,
0:37:29 > 0:37:33which is essentially egg yolk and sugar whisked into a beautiful,
0:37:33 > 0:37:36- creamy-like foam. - This is rich, isn't it?
0:37:36 > 0:37:38- This is rich. - Imagine doing that by hand.
0:37:38 > 0:37:41- What a lot of beating that would have been.- Yeah, yeah.
0:37:41 > 0:37:44And this is for one cake, and you know, the trick is,
0:37:44 > 0:37:47- you know, they would never have been making one cake.- No.
0:37:47 > 0:37:48OK, so this is good.
0:37:51 > 0:37:53Next, our sugar goes in the bowl.
0:37:55 > 0:37:59- We're going to whisk up our egg whites.- Right.
0:38:00 > 0:38:03And I'm going to give my cherries a little check.
0:38:03 > 0:38:04Oh, beautiful.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08So I'm going to take these out, pop them into a bowl,
0:38:08 > 0:38:11so that they'll be ready for us at the end.
0:38:11 > 0:38:13- Lovely.- I think, if you weren't looking, Anna,
0:38:13 > 0:38:17I might be round there, trying those. SHE LAUGHS
0:38:17 > 0:38:20So I'm going to fold in my cocoa and my salt while we're waiting for
0:38:20 > 0:38:22this to whisk.
0:38:22 > 0:38:25And then you just want to really delicately fold.
0:38:25 > 0:38:27That looks gloopy and wonderful, doesn't it?
0:38:27 > 0:38:31- Yeah, it's going to be really lovely when we get the egg whites in there, as well.- Yeah.
0:38:33 > 0:38:35OK, this looks like it's done now.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37Yeah. Is this the sort of thing you want, the peaks and all that?
0:38:37 > 0:38:39That's it, yeah.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42So I'm being really careful with folding in my egg whites.
0:38:43 > 0:38:45Oh, my word, look at that!
0:38:45 > 0:38:48OK, so I think we're ready for this to go in the tin.
0:38:48 > 0:38:49OK.
0:38:49 > 0:38:51Lovely.
0:38:53 > 0:38:55Oh, my God, this is so good!
0:38:55 > 0:38:57Yeah, look at that.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02This is going to be cooked in the oven at 180 degrees,
0:39:02 > 0:39:05- for at least a half an hour.- OK.
0:39:06 > 0:39:10- Thank you very much.- Thank you, Michael.- 180, half an hour.- 180.
0:39:16 > 0:39:19- Next, we're going to whip our cream. - Mm-hmm.
0:39:22 > 0:39:25And icing sugar and vanilla.
0:39:25 > 0:39:27The vanilla gives it a wonderful flavour, doesn't it?
0:39:27 > 0:39:31Oh, absolutely. So you just cut your vanilla pod in half.
0:39:31 > 0:39:34- Right.- I just want to scrape out the seeds.- Mm-hmm.
0:39:36 > 0:39:39Hopefully this won't go everywhere.
0:39:39 > 0:39:42- There's so much richness in this gateau.- Mmm.
0:39:45 > 0:39:48I'm just going to strain the kirsch of the cherries.
0:39:48 > 0:39:51- Right.- OK?- Yeah.
0:39:51 > 0:39:52Fold that in.
0:39:54 > 0:39:59It's important that your sponge is really cool when you go to make it,
0:39:59 > 0:40:04because if you put cream on a warm sponge, it's just going to melt.
0:40:04 > 0:40:07- So I have a sponge that I made earlier here.- Mm-hmm.
0:40:10 > 0:40:13- Nice and cool?- Nice and cool.
0:40:13 > 0:40:16I'm just going to start off with my base layer.
0:40:16 > 0:40:21Start off with a little bit of the jam that we put inside our cherries.
0:40:22 > 0:40:27- Spread it out.- Spread that around. - That's all right.
0:40:27 > 0:40:30Now our beautiful, gorgeous cream.
0:40:30 > 0:40:34What would my doctor say about this? LAUGHTER
0:40:36 > 0:40:38Now, how thick do you make these layers?
0:40:38 > 0:40:40- To be honest, I really believe... - I suppose it's a personal taste,
0:40:40 > 0:40:43- isn't it?- It should be as big as possible, because, you know...
0:40:43 > 0:40:46Well, it's not an understated pudding, is it?
0:40:46 > 0:40:51- No, and...- This is all about display and, kind of, oh,
0:40:51 > 0:40:54conspicuous consumption.
0:40:54 > 0:40:56And the last one?
0:40:56 > 0:40:59Our last layer, which I'm going to soak with kirsch.
0:41:01 > 0:41:04OK, and now for the finishing touches,
0:41:04 > 0:41:09- and our cake stand.- Oh, yes, got to have a cake stand.- Yes. OK,
0:41:09 > 0:41:12and then I just have a little bit more whipped cream to go around the
0:41:12 > 0:41:15- outside.- Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah,
0:41:15 > 0:41:18we're really of short cream for this dish. LAUGHTER
0:41:20 > 0:41:23It's a kind of heart attack on a cake stand, isn't it?
0:41:25 > 0:41:28- Heart attack of excitement. - LAUGHTER
0:41:29 > 0:41:33OK, and I think I might need your help with this one, Michael.
0:41:33 > 0:41:36- OK.- So...- To lift it?- Yes.- Oh-oh-oh!
0:41:36 > 0:41:40- You have to lift this one. - Oh, OK.- Yep.
0:41:40 > 0:41:42O-o-o-oh. O-o-o-oh.
0:41:42 > 0:41:45- I love it, I love it, I love it, I love it. - LAUGHTER
0:41:45 > 0:41:48There we go. And now
0:41:48 > 0:41:51we're just going to put these around the side like this.
0:41:51 > 0:41:53Making it a kind of stockade?
0:41:53 > 0:41:54Yeah.
0:41:54 > 0:41:58- I'm doing it incredibly carefully, you know?- You're doing a great job, actually.
0:41:58 > 0:42:00I am, I am, I think I'm a natural.
0:42:00 > 0:42:03- It'll be a shame to eat this, won't it?- Absolutely not.
0:42:03 > 0:42:06- LAUGHTER - Be a shame not to eat it.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09OK, and now we're going to top it with our cherries.
0:42:10 > 0:42:13- And the smell.- Mmm.- Mmm.
0:42:13 > 0:42:15Last one.
0:42:15 > 0:42:17OK. Whoa!
0:42:17 > 0:42:20Look! At! That!
0:42:20 > 0:42:23The Schwarzwalder Kirschwasser cake!
0:42:23 > 0:42:25Black Forest gateau to me.
0:42:25 > 0:42:27- Let's dig in.- So...
0:42:29 > 0:42:31Look at that! SHE SQUEALS IN DELIGHT
0:42:34 > 0:42:36Go on, go on, after you.
0:42:36 > 0:42:37OK.
0:42:39 > 0:42:41- Let me in.- Mmm! That's so good.
0:42:43 > 0:42:46That's exactly what you want a Black Forest to taste like.
0:42:46 > 0:42:50Mmm! It's really light, though, isn't it?
0:42:50 > 0:42:52But it's rich.
0:42:52 > 0:42:56- And the cherries give it that wonderful juicy...- Mmm!
0:42:56 > 0:43:00..juiciness as well. Oh, Victoria,
0:43:00 > 0:43:02you've got it right.
0:43:03 > 0:43:05Mmm. That was wonderful.
0:43:05 > 0:43:09Join us next time for more Royal Recipes.