Episode 103

0:00:02 > 0:00:05Good morning. We've got some top-class cooking

0:00:05 > 0:00:09to get your tastebuds going. This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

0:00:27 > 0:00:31Welcome to the show. We've got a line-up of very hungry celebrity guests

0:00:31 > 0:00:33waiting to be fed by some pretty great chefs this morning.

0:00:33 > 0:00:36French baking legend Richard Bertinet

0:00:36 > 0:00:39creates a puffball bread and fills it with tomatoes, Parma ham,

0:00:39 > 0:00:44cos lettuce and a Caesar dressing, creating a unique lunchtime treat.

0:00:44 > 0:00:48The man with two Michelin stars above the pub door is Tom Kerridge.

0:00:48 > 0:00:50He brings Cornish pollock to the table.

0:00:50 > 0:00:53He oven-bakes the fish and serves it with radishes,

0:00:53 > 0:00:55borage flowers and lardo,

0:00:55 > 0:00:58creating one of the most stunning plates you're ever going to see.

0:00:58 > 0:01:01The lovely Sophie Grigson pot-roasts pheasant for us.

0:01:01 > 0:01:03She cooks it with carrots and Riesling

0:01:03 > 0:01:08and serves it with a stunning baked potato, sweetcorn and saffron mash.

0:01:08 > 0:01:11And Gloria Hunniford faced her food heaven or food hell.

0:01:11 > 0:01:14Would she get her food heaven - scallops - with my decadent gratinated scallops

0:01:14 > 0:01:18served in the scallop shell with lobster, or her food hell - rabbit -

0:01:18 > 0:01:22with my wild rabbit and morel stew with olive oil mash?

0:01:22 > 0:01:25You can find out what she gets to eat at the end of today's show.

0:01:25 > 0:01:29First up, Adam Byatt puts a delicate seafood twist on a one-pot wonder.

0:01:29 > 0:01:32On the menu is what? Today, we're going to cook a lemon sole dish.

0:01:32 > 0:01:34A little one-pot wonder.

0:01:34 > 0:01:37We've got some mussels, leeks, samphire

0:01:37 > 0:01:43and a bit of creme fraiche to finish it. We're going to make an old-school fish stock as well, which I never do.

0:01:43 > 0:01:46It's a lovely lemon sole. Buy it on the bone so I can make the stock.

0:01:46 > 0:01:49I'm going to take the fillets off quickly.

0:01:49 > 0:01:51With Dover sole being the most expensive one,

0:01:51 > 0:01:53it's thinner in shape, really.

0:01:53 > 0:01:56I think Dover sole is a bit prohibitive, for me, on the price.

0:01:56 > 0:02:00A beautiful fish. It's one of the best fish there is. But prohibitive.

0:02:00 > 0:02:03And I love lemon sole. But it's probably got to be four times

0:02:03 > 0:02:06the price of one of these little things, really? Yeah.

0:02:06 > 0:02:10We use Torbay, we use witch sole, we use megrim soles. We use all sorts.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14It depends. They are quite seasonal. It does depend on the time of year.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17Now, megrim soles, that's sole that looks a little anaemic.

0:02:17 > 0:02:21It's an ugly one, yeah. It's not the most pretty thing in the world.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23It's not, no. But these things are bottom feeders,

0:02:23 > 0:02:27so you can see, if you turn the fillets over, you have a dark side

0:02:27 > 0:02:30which actually blends into the sand, and the white bit is underneath

0:02:30 > 0:02:32as they sit on the bottom of the ocean. That's it.

0:02:32 > 0:02:34So we'll just take that off.

0:02:34 > 0:02:37If you could make some fish stock out of the bones, James.

0:02:37 > 0:02:40I know Bill's interested because you're learning all these new types

0:02:40 > 0:02:42of fish now you're over here. It's quite different.

0:02:42 > 0:02:45It takes a while, actually. We don't have any of that mahi mahi.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48Yeah, Hapuku or... Ooja-booja, whatever it is.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51And the fish are bigger in Australia. They're like this.

0:02:51 > 0:02:54Big and chunky fillets.

0:02:54 > 0:02:58Size is not that important, Bill, you know what I mean?

0:02:58 > 0:03:00I don't know.

0:03:00 > 0:03:04So these, I'm just skinning these sole, James.

0:03:04 > 0:03:08I'm just going to get the knife under the flesh

0:03:08 > 0:03:11and just move the fish rather than the knife.

0:03:11 > 0:03:13So four fillets on a flat fish.

0:03:13 > 0:03:16You could, of course, just get your fishmonger to do it.

0:03:16 > 0:03:19Now, in here, you've got the wine, you've got the water.

0:03:19 > 0:03:23White wine, some water, white vegetables, so onions, celery, leeks,

0:03:23 > 0:03:26bay leaf, peppercorns. That's reminded me,

0:03:26 > 0:03:27you want a bit of leek in there as well.

0:03:27 > 0:03:29A bit of leek, please, mate.

0:03:29 > 0:03:32And the reason for white veg is to keep the colour?

0:03:32 > 0:03:34You don't put carrots in there. They won't cook in time.

0:03:34 > 0:03:37Obviously, you want to cook your fish stock for 20 minutes,

0:03:37 > 0:03:40otherwise it goes bitter, overcooks,

0:03:40 > 0:03:42there's nothing left to cook after that.

0:03:42 > 0:03:44And these, you want them nice and thin?

0:03:44 > 0:03:46Please, on the angle, nice and thin.

0:03:46 > 0:03:49This is a cracking dish to make at home.

0:03:49 > 0:03:51And I wanted to do a dish, my mum said to me,

0:03:51 > 0:03:53"Make sure it's a dish I can do at home.

0:03:53 > 0:03:56"Don't be doing any of that chef-y stuff." Poncy stuff?

0:03:56 > 0:03:59"None of that jus stuff, just give me gravy." That's it.

0:03:59 > 0:04:00She don't talk like that.

0:04:02 > 0:04:04So we roll these up, like that.

0:04:04 > 0:04:07That's just about making sure we've got some density to the fish.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10There's a sink in the back there.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13So you've got the little fillets there... That's it.

0:04:13 > 0:04:15We're going to build this thing here. I've made this hot,

0:04:15 > 0:04:19but you don't have to make it hot before. A little pot.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21I like things like this, little casserole like this.

0:04:21 > 0:04:25Samphire. How is it looking so far? It looks great.

0:04:25 > 0:04:29Samphire? Have you ever eaten samphire? I don't usually, no.

0:04:29 > 0:04:34It often comes pickled, samphire. It can do. It's called sea asparagus.

0:04:34 > 0:04:37This sort of stuff. You can eat it raw... Pop those in there.

0:04:37 > 0:04:40A few mussels as well. Nice, large mussels.

0:04:40 > 0:04:43All this cooks together at the same time, which is fantastic.

0:04:43 > 0:04:44As I said, you want to cook that fish stock.

0:04:44 > 0:04:48It's got quite a tang to it. Small asparagus, you see, Bill, look at that! See?

0:04:48 > 0:04:50It's got a kind of weird tang to it.

0:04:50 > 0:04:55It's salty, because it's basically been picked along the beaches.

0:04:55 > 0:04:57Can you replace it with anything?

0:04:57 > 0:05:00No. It's got its own taste. It is what it is.

0:05:00 > 0:05:02That's the recipe, Bill, that's the recipe.

0:05:02 > 0:05:05Don't start messing with it, Bill, you know what I mean?

0:05:05 > 0:05:09So this fish stock wants to cook 20 minutes. We cooked some earlier.

0:05:09 > 0:05:13Pop that in, nice and hot. A little bit of butter in there, lid on.

0:05:14 > 0:05:16Straight in the oven? Straight in a really hot oven.

0:05:16 > 0:05:20And that wants, what, three minutes? Yeah, four minutes.

0:05:20 > 0:05:23Three, four minutes, that's all. Right, I've got some leek here.

0:05:23 > 0:05:26You want me to blend this? I'm going to make a little leek oil.

0:05:26 > 0:05:29Just to add a freshness. The whole thing's really fresh and crispy.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32A leek oil? Yeah, which just adds to that and keeps it fresh.

0:05:32 > 0:05:35And you do that using the green...? The really dark of the leek.

0:05:35 > 0:05:39Just the really dark bit. That's good, because when you have recipes with leeks,

0:05:39 > 0:05:41it always says, "The white part only."

0:05:41 > 0:05:44It's a good way to use the green. We don't really use it.

0:05:44 > 0:05:46I'll use a little bit more of this here.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49Often, when you do this, you blanch it, don't you?

0:05:49 > 0:05:52I don't blanch it but you can.

0:05:52 > 0:05:55Stuff like herb oil, you would blanch it a little bit.

0:05:55 > 0:05:58Some of them you do. A bit of salt to go with it.

0:05:58 > 0:06:01A little bit of salt in there. And just vegetable oil.

0:06:01 > 0:06:03Use a neutral oil. Don't use olive oil or anything like that.

0:06:03 > 0:06:05Just a nice, neutral oil. On the grapevine,

0:06:05 > 0:06:08I've heard that you're opening a new restaurant. Is that right?

0:06:08 > 0:06:10I'm trying to, James, yeah. You're trying to?

0:06:10 > 0:06:14I think there's a real... Did you do that on purpose?

0:06:14 > 0:06:18You started that as soon as I started talking to you! Yeah. I did that on purpose. Go on!

0:06:18 > 0:06:21There's a real movement

0:06:21 > 0:06:25towards a more sort of simplified food

0:06:25 > 0:06:28in this country.

0:06:28 > 0:06:31Using the term brasserie or bistro is almost wrong.

0:06:31 > 0:06:35But I think what we've got now is a real heritage of food.

0:06:35 > 0:06:38And trying to do that on a more simple, mainstream basis

0:06:38 > 0:06:42is what I'm trying to do, and we've located a great site.

0:06:42 > 0:06:48It's all going through the motions and hopefully that will open.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51It feels like a natural progression. We've been open five years now

0:06:51 > 0:06:55and it's going really well. I'm going to put some salt into here.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57Salt's important because it draws out the moisture.

0:06:57 > 0:07:00Stops the leek... We want it to colour really well,

0:07:00 > 0:07:02but it stops it burning.

0:07:02 > 0:07:05Now, this, it goes a lighter colour when you're blending it.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08It's just the air in the oil, isn't it?

0:07:08 > 0:07:10And then it'll darken down if you leave it.

0:07:10 > 0:07:12More oil, otherwise you'll be there for a while.

0:07:15 > 0:07:20A bit more in. Now, these leeks are half-cooked now.

0:07:20 > 0:07:23I'm just going to put a lid on it or something to press it down.

0:07:23 > 0:07:27What that does is it creates steam underneath and cooks it through.

0:07:27 > 0:07:30Ideally, I'd leave that for about 15 minutes. Kind of charring?

0:07:30 > 0:07:34Yeah, colour them really well. Pop a plate on top, a little bit of butter,

0:07:34 > 0:07:38just cos you're here and it makes you happy.

0:07:38 > 0:07:41I don't know what you mean!

0:07:41 > 0:07:43A bit of butter. Leave it to sit in that pan

0:07:43 > 0:07:47and the residual heat from the pan will cook that through.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50All right. I've actually decided I'm not going to use butter

0:07:50 > 0:07:52any more in any of my cooking.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55Are you not? No. I'm going to use dripping.

0:07:55 > 0:07:57LAUGHTER

0:07:58 > 0:08:01Good for the lips, not the hips. Yeah, exactly.

0:08:04 > 0:08:07Let's have a look. That's had three minutes, bang on. There's your oil.

0:08:07 > 0:08:10It will go lighter. That's the colour that you get.

0:08:10 > 0:08:14And if you actually leave it, this is what you end up with.

0:08:14 > 0:08:17And if you leave it for a long time, this was made yesterday,

0:08:17 > 0:08:19you've got three stages, you see.

0:08:19 > 0:08:22That was me just now, that was made in rehearsal.

0:08:22 > 0:08:24If you leave it, that's what happens.

0:08:24 > 0:08:27This is like a masterclass in leek oil.

0:08:27 > 0:08:30Well, it basically goes clearer as the sediment drops.

0:08:30 > 0:08:32We make chive oil. Last time I came on, actually,

0:08:32 > 0:08:36I made a watercress oil, and then turned that into a mayonnaise.

0:08:36 > 0:08:40We do a lot of that stuff. So we lift all that out.

0:08:40 > 0:08:43Three minutes, you could cook this so quickly at home.

0:08:43 > 0:08:48As your mum's told you. Exactly. She told me I have to make sure I cook...

0:08:48 > 0:08:51I want to reduce the sauce down.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54Sole, it really is very fast anyway.

0:08:54 > 0:08:55Very, very fast.

0:08:55 > 0:08:58If you think, in there now is the fish stock, all the juice

0:08:58 > 0:09:01and the mussels which have been cooked, lovely flavour,

0:09:01 > 0:09:04and obviously the leeks and the samphire have played their part

0:09:04 > 0:09:07and imparted a bit of flavour.

0:09:07 > 0:09:13You've got a really, really good, delicious, fishy stock.

0:09:13 > 0:09:16I just want to reduce that down quickly.

0:09:16 > 0:09:19And then you've got this? Yeah, a little bit of creme fraiche in there.

0:09:19 > 0:09:22You don't want double cream? Not really. Are you sure? Not a big fan.

0:09:22 > 0:09:24I tell you, it's not actually to do with the fat content,

0:09:24 > 0:09:28it's to do with the acidity. It's all about acidity.

0:09:28 > 0:09:30It plays a big part in all of this.

0:09:30 > 0:09:34We want to add the acidity, and creme fraiche is much better for that.

0:09:34 > 0:09:36These things you've got here as well...

0:09:36 > 0:09:39It's a little bit of sea aster. I think it just ties in really well.

0:09:39 > 0:09:42I put it in ice to crisp it up a little bit. What's that? Sea aster.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46See, Bill's learning as well! I know, it's like, what? Sea aster.

0:09:46 > 0:09:50I'll be charging you after this, Bill. So tell us, people who have never seen you before...

0:09:50 > 0:09:53Sea aster, like samphire, grows on the beaches, on the shore,

0:09:53 > 0:09:55and it's just a sea vegetable.

0:09:55 > 0:09:58It's really crisp and adds a really nice element.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01It's great in salads. A lot of this is crisp. I think that's important.

0:10:01 > 0:10:05Cooking nowadays, food nowadays is a lot fresher than it was

0:10:05 > 0:10:09when you and I started. And I think that's important.

0:10:09 > 0:10:12It's a lovely movement, actually. So the stock in here,

0:10:12 > 0:10:14the reason why you only cook it for 20 minutes,

0:10:14 > 0:10:17you say it goes bitter? It goes bitter. And after 20 minutes,

0:10:17 > 0:10:20there's no flavour left to take out. You just want to cover it.

0:10:20 > 0:10:22We add white wine because I think it's really nice.

0:10:22 > 0:10:25White bones or Salmon bones you want for this

0:10:25 > 0:10:28but not oily fish like mackerel. Don't use the bones from that.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31Lift these out. I didn't wash them, which is important.

0:10:31 > 0:10:33There's dirt underneath the layers.

0:10:33 > 0:10:37But I'm going to peel off the layers and use them, like that. Here we go.

0:10:37 > 0:10:39Good job you said that.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42No, somebody's going to ask you why they weren't washed.

0:10:42 > 0:10:44It's important to wash leeks

0:10:44 > 0:10:47but actually what we do is cook them like that. If you wash them before,

0:10:47 > 0:10:49they wouldn't colour in the pan, you see? OK.

0:10:49 > 0:10:51We had to come up with a way to...

0:10:51 > 0:10:54All those lovely leeks and samphire on there

0:10:54 > 0:10:58and then we pop the sole round the outside, like that. Really lovely.

0:10:58 > 0:11:01I think just rolling it up gives it a bit of density.

0:11:01 > 0:11:02That is old school, isn't it?

0:11:02 > 0:11:05I haven't done that since I was at college. Really old school.

0:11:05 > 0:11:08That is what you would call a paupiette, James. Yup.

0:11:08 > 0:11:10Here we go. Like that.

0:11:10 > 0:11:12I'm sure you've cooked a few paupiettes in your time?

0:11:12 > 0:11:15Yeah, when I was in college, yeah. Exactly.

0:11:15 > 0:11:19Nothing wrong with that, is there? Mornay, you used to do it with a cheese sauce. That's it.

0:11:19 > 0:11:21And then we just take our...

0:11:21 > 0:11:24Another second more there.

0:11:24 > 0:11:26Take the outside of that leek off.

0:11:27 > 0:11:30Like so. Just pull that off.

0:11:30 > 0:11:34It just adds texture and another sort of lovely flavour to it.

0:11:34 > 0:11:37You want a little bit of charred in there. It's all quite soft.

0:11:37 > 0:11:41Some sauce over the top. And that's just the stock?

0:11:41 > 0:11:45That's the stock, reduced down, a bit of the mussel liquor.

0:11:45 > 0:11:48Really flavoursome. Huge amounts of flavour.

0:11:48 > 0:11:50And I'm just going to finish it with that lovely leek oil.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53A bit of that. Going to freshen it up, that's it.

0:11:53 > 0:11:55Remind us what that dish is again?

0:11:55 > 0:11:57That's my lemon sole, mussels, leeks, creme fraiche...

0:11:59 > 0:12:03With a bit of leek oil. Yes. Looks stunning. You can cook at home.

0:12:08 > 0:12:11Absolutely fabulous. Look at that.

0:12:11 > 0:12:13It's actually on the menu at the moment. It's on the menu?

0:12:13 > 0:12:15Another plug?!

0:12:15 > 0:12:18Dive into that. That looks amazing.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21It looks great, doesn't it? Yeah, but this sea aster stuff,

0:12:21 > 0:12:24where do you buy it? You can actually buy it in a supermarket.

0:12:24 > 0:12:26You can get samphire in the supermarket.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28You can buy sea aster too. Can you? Yes. I've seen it.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33Really? I could just see me going down to the beach or something.

0:12:33 > 0:12:36If you see it now, you'll identify it if you are on the beach.

0:12:36 > 0:12:39We have a guy that goes round all the beaches and picks it for us.

0:12:39 > 0:12:42That's lovely. Really delicate. Nice and simple, delicate.

0:12:42 > 0:12:44Like you say, that's the sole in there as well.

0:12:44 > 0:12:48The most important thing with that is the cooking temperature. Not overcooking it.

0:12:48 > 0:12:52It's really delicate, the flavour comes through rather than the fish.

0:12:52 > 0:12:53It's great.

0:12:57 > 0:12:58That was a great recipe.

0:12:58 > 0:13:01Coming up, I will be making a squash pickle for Sharon Corr,

0:13:01 > 0:13:05with squash from my garden, after Rick Stein travels to Scotland

0:13:05 > 0:13:09for a Bloody Mary and some spoots, or razor clams, to you and I.

0:13:11 > 0:13:15My head chef Roy, who's very Scottish, said that

0:13:15 > 0:13:18if I was going to Edinburgh, I had to go to the Canny Man's pub.

0:13:18 > 0:13:21It's a well-known establishment in the Morningside area,

0:13:21 > 0:13:23and it's a must.

0:13:23 > 0:13:27He described it as a cross between a pub and a gentleman's club,

0:13:27 > 0:13:30and if they don't like the look of you, they chuck you out.

0:13:30 > 0:13:34On the internet, it said, "It's been operating since Victoria

0:13:34 > 0:13:38"was on the throne, probably to the same bunch of regulars."

0:13:38 > 0:13:40But the Bloody Marys

0:13:40 > 0:13:43made by the owner's son Tristram are legendry.

0:13:43 > 0:13:45It's a misconception.

0:13:45 > 0:13:47People think a Bloody Mary is vodka and tomato juice.

0:13:47 > 0:13:50It's not. It's vodka, tomato juice

0:13:50 > 0:13:53and a whole load of other things, all together.

0:13:53 > 0:13:56You'll see the glass is lined, that's just to give us

0:13:56 > 0:13:59the exact measurements to get it right each time.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02A serious measurement of Worcester sauce.

0:14:02 > 0:14:06I take it to the second line. Then you add the lemon juice,

0:14:06 > 0:14:09just from the second white line

0:14:09 > 0:14:13to just off the top. Just to about there.

0:14:13 > 0:14:17And then, on top of that, you have to be careful with Tabasco

0:14:17 > 0:14:20because it can ruin a Bloody Mary.

0:14:20 > 0:14:24But it does need to have that sort of bite. Great.

0:14:24 > 0:14:28And you pour that into a glass with some ice, a slice of lemon

0:14:28 > 0:14:32and a fresh piece of celery. Next, vodka.

0:14:32 > 0:14:34Always use a good vodka.

0:14:34 > 0:14:36Nothing at 38 volume. Always 40 volume.

0:14:38 > 0:14:41And then you add the tomato juice.

0:14:43 > 0:14:49Then on top, you add some celery salt and some cayenne pepper.

0:14:49 > 0:14:52And finally, ice-cold dry sherry.

0:14:52 > 0:14:54Tio Pepe is probably the best one for it,

0:14:54 > 0:14:56just a little floater on the very top.

0:14:58 > 0:15:01And that is how you do a bloody Mary. Cheers, Tristram.

0:15:01 > 0:15:04Just have a tiny little taste.

0:15:11 > 0:15:14Haunting, I would say. That's haunting.

0:15:14 > 0:15:19They only serve Swedish-style open sandwiches here, but, being a pub,

0:15:19 > 0:15:22dogs are allowed, and it's the sort of place Chalky loves.

0:15:22 > 0:15:27And look at this beautifully rare Aberdeen Angus beef.

0:15:27 > 0:15:30Sorry to keep going on about life on the road and overcooked steaks,

0:15:30 > 0:15:31but it's a fact.

0:15:31 > 0:15:35I think Chalky finds the whole thing a bit of a jaunt, of course.

0:15:35 > 0:15:40While we're at it, this is a little glimpse of life on the road.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44First of all, most of the time is spent at motorway services with

0:15:44 > 0:15:49impromptu picnics, tasting local cheeses, as juggernauts roll by.

0:15:49 > 0:15:54And then it's checking into yet another hotel for a nice rare steak.

0:15:54 > 0:15:58This is unbelievable. This is the best one I've ever seen!

0:15:58 > 0:16:00Thank you.

0:16:00 > 0:16:02That's a serious tomato sauce.

0:16:02 > 0:16:05That's the sort of stuff you have to eat as a vegetarian.

0:16:05 > 0:16:10If that's bleu, my arm is a...

0:16:10 > 0:16:12Dogfish. THEY LAUGH

0:16:12 > 0:16:15So what is the latest fashion in food?

0:16:15 > 0:16:18It's one of those things about big bowls,

0:16:18 > 0:16:22it's quite irritating to get your knife and fork in there.

0:16:22 > 0:16:27It slopes at the front. You see? Otherwise...

0:16:27 > 0:16:28"I am your deep bowl, sir.

0:16:28 > 0:16:32"I am sloping towards you to make it easier for you to eat."

0:16:35 > 0:16:39That's interesting, they've got a starter of deep-fried "blanchbait".

0:16:39 > 0:16:43I wonder if that means whitebait.

0:16:45 > 0:16:47The verdict on the fish.

0:16:47 > 0:16:49I can imagine people having this as a main course,

0:16:49 > 0:16:53and thinking, "I'll go for the steak next time."

0:16:53 > 0:16:55I always find that a bit revealing.

0:16:55 > 0:16:59You take a fin like that - why's it all bust off at the end?

0:16:59 > 0:17:03It's been frozen, it's been knocked around in the freezer.

0:17:03 > 0:17:06Meanwhile, back to Edinburgh, and Eddie's Seafood Market.

0:17:06 > 0:17:11How come you do so well? Because we have a lot of contacts.

0:17:11 > 0:17:15We get fish from the west coast, the east coast,

0:17:15 > 0:17:18and lots from the loch as well. We have so much variety.

0:17:18 > 0:17:21People just keep coming back to buy more fish

0:17:21 > 0:17:23and they want to try something new.

0:17:23 > 0:17:25They do not want to go to a fishmonger,

0:17:25 > 0:17:27they will get only haddock or cod.

0:17:27 > 0:17:33They want to try something like sea bass, um, Dover sole,

0:17:33 > 0:17:35or some langoustine.

0:17:35 > 0:17:37Do you call them spoots or razor clams?

0:17:37 > 0:17:44Here, we call them razor clams. They are lovely. Brilliant.

0:17:44 > 0:17:48They're are so fresh. They smell of the sea.

0:17:48 > 0:17:50They just came today from Oban.

0:17:50 > 0:17:53Oban. How would you cook those? Like scallops.

0:17:53 > 0:17:56Open it, clean it out,

0:17:56 > 0:18:01and then steam it with garlic and black bean sauce.

0:18:01 > 0:18:04It'll be lovely.

0:18:04 > 0:18:06Actually, Eddie's one of my food heroes

0:18:06 > 0:18:09because this is the sort of fishmonger I'd like to see

0:18:09 > 0:18:13in every city. Is not just that it's busy, it's also unpretentious.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15He's just getting on with it.

0:18:15 > 0:18:19Me and the crew are calling him Fast Eddie because

0:18:19 > 0:18:22he's here, there, everywhere, buying, selling, stuff coming in,

0:18:22 > 0:18:26and it's got this bustle that's really exciting.

0:18:26 > 0:18:29What's your favourite fish? I love herring.

0:18:29 > 0:18:32A lot of people don't like herring. How would you cook it?

0:18:32 > 0:18:35Oh, it's quite straightforward.

0:18:35 > 0:18:41Herring fillets, dip in some flour, and then just pan-fry it.

0:18:41 > 0:18:46Make it turn crispy and a yellow colour. Yeah. That's it. Beautiful.

0:18:46 > 0:18:51I thought I'd do exactly what he suggested with those clams.

0:18:51 > 0:18:56I'm just mashing these fermented black beans with a little sugar

0:18:56 > 0:18:57and some roasted sesame oil.

0:18:57 > 0:19:01I'm going to use them to make this Chinese dish with these razor clams,

0:19:01 > 0:19:03or spoots, as the Scottish call them.

0:19:03 > 0:19:06I remember, about eight or nine years ago,

0:19:06 > 0:19:09I went to the mouth of the estuary

0:19:09 > 0:19:12at a low spring tide with a fisherman called Ed the Bass,

0:19:12 > 0:19:15and he had a way of catching these razor clams,

0:19:15 > 0:19:19'by putting table salt down the hole that they live down,

0:19:19 > 0:19:22'or burrow down - it looked a bit like a keyhole,

0:19:22 > 0:19:24'and they'd come racing out.'

0:19:24 > 0:19:27Very gently, ease him out slowly.

0:19:27 > 0:19:33So much strength! That's amazing! Very gently, so you don't break him.

0:19:33 > 0:19:36That's him, you've got him. Perfect.

0:19:38 > 0:19:41'I was a lot younger at the time, perhaps more innocent,'

0:19:41 > 0:19:44but I remember describing it at the time

0:19:44 > 0:19:47as being like ships sinking in reverse.

0:19:47 > 0:19:51It wasn't exactly how the crew described it! But anyway,

0:19:51 > 0:19:52let's get on and cook them.

0:19:54 > 0:19:57First of all, I add sunflower oil to a hot pan

0:19:57 > 0:20:00and then in goes my black bean paste.

0:20:00 > 0:20:04I stir that around in the hot oil to let it cook out,

0:20:04 > 0:20:06and then I add some very finely chopped garlic

0:20:06 > 0:20:08and the equivalent amount of ginger.

0:20:08 > 0:20:12Stir that around, and next for some heat -

0:20:12 > 0:20:14some sliced chillies - but I've taken the seeds out of them

0:20:14 > 0:20:16so they're not too hot.

0:20:16 > 0:20:19And finally, the razor clams, into that hot pan.

0:20:23 > 0:20:26Finally, just to increase the amount of steam and flavour,

0:20:26 > 0:20:29a bit of Shaoxing wine, Chinese rice wine.

0:20:29 > 0:20:33You can use dry sherry, but Shaoxing is exactly the thing,

0:20:33 > 0:20:35and just a bit of water to make up the sauce.

0:20:35 > 0:20:39Final shake, and on with the lid.

0:20:39 > 0:20:42In Italy, these razor clams are quite small,

0:20:42 > 0:20:44and you get a whole bundle of them on a plate,

0:20:44 > 0:20:47but with these big ones from Scotland,

0:20:47 > 0:20:50they are a lot bigger, and three is quite enough.

0:20:50 > 0:20:53Leave that to cook for three or four minutes, no longer,

0:20:53 > 0:20:56because they want to be nice and tender.

0:20:56 > 0:20:59I remember a real razor clam emergency on a beach in Torquay

0:20:59 > 0:21:03a couple of years ago. Loads of cut feet and ambulances.

0:21:03 > 0:21:06The Chinese would have scooped them up, not stepped on them!

0:21:06 > 0:21:10To finish the sauce, just a little soy sauce, not too much,

0:21:10 > 0:21:15and then some slaked cornflour, just to thicken it a little.

0:21:15 > 0:21:17Stir that in, and that's it.

0:21:17 > 0:21:19Just nap that, as we say in the trade,

0:21:19 > 0:21:24over the razor clams and sprinkle with some sliced spring onions,

0:21:24 > 0:21:27just to give that nice oniony tang at the end.

0:21:29 > 0:21:31And I just serve that with some rice.

0:21:31 > 0:21:35Quite often the Chinese will serve a single razor clam

0:21:35 > 0:21:39as part of a banquet, disconcertingly unsliced,

0:21:39 > 0:21:42so you have to pick the whole thing out with your chopsticks.

0:21:48 > 0:21:50Those razor clams look delicious.

0:21:50 > 0:21:52Always buy them as fresh as possible.

0:21:52 > 0:21:54The same can be said about vegetables, and after

0:21:54 > 0:21:57the success of last week's tomato crop and the soup that people have

0:21:57 > 0:22:01been tweeting about, we have another one of my vegetables from my garden.

0:22:01 > 0:22:04This could be a butternut squash, but it could also be a melon,

0:22:04 > 0:22:08because the plants got muddled up. Very suspect.

0:22:08 > 0:22:10This hopefully is going to be a pickle with some apple -

0:22:10 > 0:22:12like, an Indian-inspired pickle.

0:22:12 > 0:22:14We've got some black onion seeds,

0:22:14 > 0:22:17a little bit of fenugreek seeds, chilli,

0:22:17 > 0:22:20turmeric, cumin, that kind of stuff -

0:22:20 > 0:22:22simple flavours - with some chicken.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25We will take our squash, which is hugely popular now,

0:22:25 > 0:22:27autumn squashes.

0:22:27 > 0:22:31It IS a squash, so that is good. A sigh of relief from me.

0:22:31 > 0:22:34The alternative was a melon pickle!

0:22:34 > 0:22:37I didn't know how I'd get out of that one.

0:22:37 > 0:22:42Most of the squashes in the UK now, sadly, are from South Africa

0:22:42 > 0:22:44at this time of year.

0:22:44 > 0:22:47But growing your own is so simple.

0:22:47 > 0:22:49Grow them in a compost heap.

0:22:49 > 0:22:52They are lovely and moist. See all the liquid coming out?

0:22:52 > 0:22:53That's all flavour.

0:22:53 > 0:22:57We are going to dry-fry that with all these different spices.

0:22:57 > 0:23:00I can't believe, looking back,

0:23:00 > 0:23:03it was nearly 14 years ago you appeared as The Corrs

0:23:03 > 0:23:04at the Olympics.

0:23:04 > 0:23:08But the '90s were a massive success for you. Yeah, they were.

0:23:08 > 0:23:11Being Irish, music is in your blood.

0:23:11 > 0:23:13You see it all the time on that X Factor thing.

0:23:13 > 0:23:16They are pretty good, the Irish, at that kind of stuff.

0:23:16 > 0:23:19We're really immersed in it from very young,

0:23:19 > 0:23:21and my mum and dad were very musical

0:23:21 > 0:23:23and they had a band themselves.

0:23:23 > 0:23:26My mum had a voice like Karen Carpenter,

0:23:26 > 0:23:29so we were immersed in music from zero.

0:23:29 > 0:23:32So that was it, you were just definitely going to go into it?

0:23:32 > 0:23:35Yes, I think it was never really a conscious decision.

0:23:35 > 0:23:39It was just sort of, you know, air and water in our life.

0:23:39 > 0:23:44Music was just a huge thing. But before all that, was it tough?

0:23:44 > 0:23:47A lot of bands have it tough, with touring and bits and pieces.

0:23:47 > 0:23:50How did it all suddenly happen for you guys?

0:23:50 > 0:23:52Well, I mean, we kind of...

0:23:52 > 0:23:57we got our stage legs over years and years and years of touring.

0:23:57 > 0:24:03In '94, we visited a lot of record companies in the States,

0:24:03 > 0:24:06and we'd approached a lot of record companies before then

0:24:06 > 0:24:10to no avail, but in 1994, we gatecrashed a session

0:24:10 > 0:24:12in the Hit Factory,

0:24:12 > 0:24:15with David Foster and Michael Jackson. Like you do.

0:24:15 > 0:24:17We literally just turned up.

0:24:17 > 0:24:19It's funny how you can work so hard,

0:24:19 > 0:24:24and then it's one piece of inspired idea that just tips it.

0:24:24 > 0:24:28And so we'd no meeting, with David Foster,

0:24:28 > 0:24:31who still is one of the biggest producers -

0:24:31 > 0:24:33he has just done Michael Buble and lots of different people.

0:24:33 > 0:24:37And he was just curious because we turned up with violins,

0:24:37 > 0:24:40tin whistles, bodhran, and we said, "Can we play for you?"

0:24:40 > 0:24:44And he was just really interested, so we sat round the piano

0:24:44 > 0:24:48and we played a couple of songs, and we were signed the next day.

0:24:48 > 0:24:51But it took us about four years to get to that point of signing.

0:24:51 > 0:24:54And that was it? 30 million albums later.

0:24:54 > 0:24:59Unbelievably, five years ago you decided, that's it. I suppose...

0:24:59 > 0:25:03We had toured, recorded albums, promoted them

0:25:03 > 0:25:06and toured back to back for 15 years.

0:25:06 > 0:25:10It was time for us to... We'd had amazing success

0:25:10 > 0:25:11all over the world,

0:25:11 > 0:25:16and it was time for us to, I suppose, pursue our individual lives.

0:25:16 > 0:25:19We were sort of hemmed in together all the time.

0:25:19 > 0:25:22And it felt like the right time,

0:25:22 > 0:25:25and within a couple of months I was pregnant with my first son, Cal,

0:25:25 > 0:25:31and Caroline already had a little boy at that stage, so it just made sense.

0:25:31 > 0:25:37We will work together again, it just was the time to stop for a while.

0:25:37 > 0:25:39But in the meantime, back out on your own.

0:25:39 > 0:25:43Yeah. It's funny, I was only home for about six months

0:25:43 > 0:25:46and I had already had itchy feet to get back out there

0:25:46 > 0:25:51because being on the road became more normal to me than being at home.

0:25:51 > 0:25:55So during that five years, between that and your new album,

0:25:55 > 0:25:59which is due out next week...? Yes, 13th September.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01Were you still writing?

0:26:01 > 0:26:04Cos you used to write a lot of the songs for the group.

0:26:04 > 0:26:08The band all wrote, which was great for us. We all wrote a lot.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10That was kind of ideal.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14For me, when I came off the road,

0:26:14 > 0:26:16the one thing I did not want to lose was my writing chops.

0:26:16 > 0:26:20I wanted to keep them up and make sure I was still working on that.

0:26:20 > 0:26:22So I did, and I kept writing

0:26:22 > 0:26:26and had a very sort of productive couple of years' writing.

0:26:26 > 0:26:28Before I knew it, I was kind of recording

0:26:28 > 0:26:31the album before I'd decided to do it, if you know what I mean.

0:26:31 > 0:26:32It was a very natural thing.

0:26:32 > 0:26:36You still kept some of the... not the band with you,

0:26:36 > 0:26:38but the backing team with you.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41Great names like Jeff Beck, you've been working with on it.

0:26:41 > 0:26:43Yeah, that was really cool.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46I went to a gig of Jeff's last year in Vicar Street in Dublin,

0:26:46 > 0:26:49and the gig was phenomenal.

0:26:49 > 0:26:53I went backstage because I knew all the bouncers working the venue

0:26:53 > 0:26:57cos I live in Dublin, so I went backstage and said hello.

0:26:57 > 0:27:01He's just such a sweet guy and is such an incredible musician.

0:27:01 > 0:27:06Ticking over in my mind is, "Do you think he could play on my album?"

0:27:06 > 0:27:11And so I did an instrumental version of a tune called Mna Na hEirean,

0:27:11 > 0:27:15and did the beautiful orchestral scoring of it.

0:27:15 > 0:27:18I knew if he would be into something,

0:27:18 > 0:27:21he would be into a classical Irish feel.

0:27:21 > 0:27:25I was brought up playing classical, and moved into traditional,

0:27:25 > 0:27:27so I thought that might hook him.

0:27:27 > 0:27:31So we sent that to him, and he fell in love with it.

0:27:31 > 0:27:36And then I played it with him in the O2 earlier this year

0:27:36 > 0:27:39at his gig, with Eric Clapton and himself, and it was great.

0:27:39 > 0:27:41He's a great guy to work with. Fantastic.

0:27:41 > 0:27:43I'll run through what we've got.

0:27:43 > 0:27:45We've got the chicken cooking away nicely,

0:27:45 > 0:27:48all the spices in there, apple, onion, a bit of garlic.

0:27:48 > 0:27:52We've got things like fenugreek seeds, black onion seeds,

0:27:52 > 0:27:54and we always dry-fry them in sugar as well.

0:27:54 > 0:27:58I've chopped some mint, coriander, and the final bit going in

0:27:58 > 0:28:02is mango chutney, some lime, and that is about it, really.

0:28:02 > 0:28:07Talking about your album as well, there's a mixture.

0:28:07 > 0:28:10You've got a mixture of the songs you wrote,

0:28:10 > 0:28:12but you cover a few songs as well.

0:28:12 > 0:28:16Yes, I covered two songs on the album basically because, for me,

0:28:16 > 0:28:19an album is like a journey.

0:28:19 > 0:28:23The album is what I've been enjoying musically myself,

0:28:23 > 0:28:27and what I've been writing, and there are two songs that have had

0:28:27 > 0:28:31a big influence in my life, and one of them is the single,

0:28:31 > 0:28:33Everybody's Got To Learn Sometime.

0:28:33 > 0:28:36I was always playing the violin solo in that song,

0:28:36 > 0:28:37but never actually singing it.

0:28:37 > 0:28:39Last year I was rehearsing

0:28:39 > 0:28:42for the Isle of Wight and Glastonbury festivals

0:28:42 > 0:28:46and my guitarist said, "Why don't you try singing it?"

0:28:46 > 0:28:48And I did, and it just really suited.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51And everybody loved it, so I put it on the album.

0:28:53 > 0:28:57And then I did a cover of Bronski Beat's Smalltown Boy,

0:28:57 > 0:29:01but really turned it on his head. You sort of recognise the song.

0:29:01 > 0:29:03It is relaxing.

0:29:03 > 0:29:06I actually fell asleep last night listening to it.

0:29:06 > 0:29:10I'm not sure that's a good thing! He was snoring to my music!

0:29:10 > 0:29:14It's a compliment! But it's very relaxing, isn't it?

0:29:14 > 0:29:18You've back-pedalled, it's OK! I believe you.

0:29:18 > 0:29:20It is really relaxing, though.

0:29:21 > 0:29:24What's the first one, the wedding song?

0:29:24 > 0:29:27The first track? Our Wedding Day.

0:29:27 > 0:29:29That's an instrumental,

0:29:29 > 0:29:32and I always open my stage show with that instrumental,

0:29:32 > 0:29:34and I wanted to make the album like I would make a stage show.

0:29:34 > 0:29:38Don't do it while I'm there, otherwise I'd fall asleep.

0:29:38 > 0:29:40I'm not putting you in the front row!

0:29:40 > 0:29:43There you go. I've got my chicken there, we've just cooked this.

0:29:43 > 0:29:49This is our little pickle. This is really simple, full of flavour.

0:29:49 > 0:29:51Like that. Looks great.

0:29:53 > 0:29:57There you go. A little bit of that. Touch of lime juice at the end.

0:29:59 > 0:30:01Sprinkle over the top.

0:30:01 > 0:30:06I've nicked some off Sat, a little bit of coriander cress. Here we go.

0:30:06 > 0:30:09This is red amaranth. And these are from your garden as well?

0:30:09 > 0:30:12No. You can actually grow this sort of stuff, red amaranth.

0:30:12 > 0:30:19It's like a trendy leaf now. The pickle cooks in six minutes,

0:30:19 > 0:30:21to cook all that all the way through.

0:30:21 > 0:30:24That's very fast, isn't it? And Indian-inspired pickle.

0:30:24 > 0:30:27Straight out of the garden. They want some over there.

0:30:27 > 0:30:29That's a bit of onion, but I'll let you off!

0:30:29 > 0:30:33The first time he said Indian, their eyes lit up. It's not that spicy.

0:30:33 > 0:30:35You can put green chilli in if you want to spice it up.

0:30:35 > 0:30:37Dive into that, tell us what you think.

0:30:39 > 0:30:42Mmmmm. Good? That mango chutney really does work.

0:30:42 > 0:30:43You sound surprised! Thanks very much!

0:30:47 > 0:30:50Thank goodness it wasn't a melon, after all.

0:30:50 > 0:30:52If you'd like to try your hand at that pickle

0:30:52 > 0:30:55or have a go at any of the recipes you've seen on today's show,

0:30:55 > 0:30:58they're just a click away, at bbc.co.uk/recipes.

0:30:58 > 0:31:01Now, we're not live today, so instead we are looking back

0:31:01 > 0:31:03at some of the best cooking from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:31:03 > 0:31:07If you thought puffballs were just mushrooms, think again,

0:31:07 > 0:31:10because now it's time for a fantastic demonstration

0:31:10 > 0:31:13from the master of bread-making, Richard Bertinet.

0:31:13 > 0:31:16Good to have you on the show. How are you?

0:31:16 > 0:31:19I'm fantastic. I love bread. I absolutely love it.

0:31:19 > 0:31:20Pastry chef for many years.

0:31:20 > 0:31:24It's not the easiest thing, to make it as good as you guys,

0:31:24 > 0:31:27but you're going to show us a couple of tips.

0:31:27 > 0:31:30Yes, I'm going to demystify the myth of bread-making.

0:31:30 > 0:31:33First, to make good bread, you need a good dough. A good dough.

0:31:33 > 0:31:36Which is the title of your book, I believe.

0:31:36 > 0:31:42The first one. The second one is Crust. All right. So, some flour.

0:31:42 > 0:31:45English flour as well. English flour. How much is that?

0:31:45 > 0:31:49500 grams of flour. Some fine sea salt, good salt again.

0:31:49 > 0:31:51I'm going to start off with a salad.

0:31:51 > 0:31:53The salad is like a little Caesar salad.

0:31:53 > 0:31:55Just while I chop the things up.

0:31:55 > 0:31:57We've got tomatoes I'm going to cook with some thyme in the oven.

0:31:57 > 0:32:00A bit of Serrano ham, so it crisps up, some cos lettuce.

0:32:00 > 0:32:03I'm going to make a little Caesar salad. French mustard.

0:32:03 > 0:32:05French mustard, sorry. Thank you. Sorry about that.

0:32:05 > 0:32:08He's started already. First time. Have you been listening to him?

0:32:08 > 0:32:11You started this morning, not me. OK, right, fire away.

0:32:11 > 0:32:14You're watching, yeah? Yeast in there? Fresh yeast.

0:32:14 > 0:32:16You can get fresh yeast from your supermarket.

0:32:16 > 0:32:19If they've got an in-store bakery they'll have some,

0:32:19 > 0:32:22or your local baker or food store.

0:32:22 > 0:32:27I'm just going to rub it gently in the flour like that. Like a crumble.

0:32:27 > 0:32:30But you keep the yeast and the salt separate, don't you? Absolutely.

0:32:30 > 0:32:32Otherwise you will kill it.

0:32:32 > 0:32:34And then I'll blend all this together,

0:32:34 > 0:32:36and then I put my 350 grams of water in there.

0:32:36 > 0:32:41Now, generally, when you're taught at college, as chefs,

0:32:41 > 0:32:44you're taught to use tepid water and stuff like that,

0:32:44 > 0:32:46but you can use cold water, I suppose? It just takes longer

0:32:46 > 0:32:48to prove, does it? It will take longer.

0:32:48 > 0:32:51The longer it takes to make bread, the better it will taste at the end.

0:32:51 > 0:32:54But the secret is not to use hot water. You make pancakes, otherwise.

0:32:56 > 0:33:00And now I'm going to turn all this with my scraper there.

0:33:00 > 0:33:03Blend all the ingredients together.

0:33:06 > 0:33:07Make a very nice and soft dough.

0:33:09 > 0:33:11No hands, you just use the...

0:33:11 > 0:33:13I try to keep my hands as clean as possible.

0:33:13 > 0:33:15When you have children and, you know, things at home,

0:33:15 > 0:33:18your hands... You keep them clean.

0:33:18 > 0:33:22Just makes it much easier like that.

0:33:22 > 0:33:25Right, I'm going to pop this in the oven just to crisp this up.

0:33:25 > 0:33:28The dough looks really wet, though.

0:33:28 > 0:33:32I use a lot more water than the traditional British baking.

0:33:32 > 0:33:35I use for one kilo of flour for 500 grams,

0:33:35 > 0:33:38it's better 150 gram, up to 400 grams sometimes.

0:33:38 > 0:33:41But different flours absorb a different amount of liquid.

0:33:41 > 0:33:44Absolutely, yeah. This flour usually can absorb quite a lot.

0:33:44 > 0:33:47So the secret of bread is not the actual recipe itself,

0:33:47 > 0:33:50it's being able to see when it's ready. Is that right?

0:33:50 > 0:33:55Yes, I mean the problem with a lot of recipes is the dough

0:33:55 > 0:33:58is too hard and then you end up making the bread not right.

0:33:58 > 0:34:01If you make a soft dough, your bread will be much lighter.

0:34:01 > 0:34:04You'll get a nice crust onto it, as well.

0:34:04 > 0:34:05I'm going to cheat a little bit,

0:34:05 > 0:34:08I'm going to take one that we've done earlier...

0:34:08 > 0:34:11So you mix everything nicely like that.

0:34:11 > 0:34:13Here's one I made earlier.

0:34:13 > 0:34:16One interesting fact that I've got on here, as well...

0:34:16 > 0:34:19I love this fact. Our researchers do all this.

0:34:19 > 0:34:2296% of British households buy bread,

0:34:22 > 0:34:26whereas 95% of British households buy toilet paper.

0:34:27 > 0:34:30What do the other 5% use? Not sure.

0:34:30 > 0:34:32They buy shirts like that.

0:34:36 > 0:34:39What do you do with this now? I'm going to show you the technique.

0:34:39 > 0:34:41You are so in for it!

0:34:44 > 0:34:46Unbelievable. Right.

0:34:46 > 0:34:49So your dough is nice and soft and the technique I use is not the

0:34:49 > 0:34:51technique where you use more flour to make your dough harder.

0:34:51 > 0:34:53It's not the usual one you...

0:34:53 > 0:34:55No, you get your hand underneath that and then you swivel the dough

0:34:55 > 0:34:58down and slap it down, trap some air inside, you see?

0:34:58 > 0:35:01Look at that! Clever. And then your dough... You make it look so easy.

0:35:01 > 0:35:04There's going to be hundreds of people tonight just...

0:35:04 > 0:35:06Going everywhere.

0:35:06 > 0:35:10But how long do you leave that to prove before you get to this stage?

0:35:10 > 0:35:14No, you don't. I'm just going a bit faster there. OK, right.

0:35:14 > 0:35:18It takes about five minutes to work your dough with that technique.

0:35:18 > 0:35:20Then you end up with a nice soft dough,

0:35:20 > 0:35:22and what's on the recipe is what you've got there.

0:35:22 > 0:35:25You don't add any flour to it, then you don't confuse the issue there.

0:35:25 > 0:35:28So with the wet dough, what you've done is stretched all the gluten,

0:35:28 > 0:35:32that makes it come together, rather than it being...like a dry dough.

0:35:32 > 0:35:36Taking the everything out. Just putting air inside the dough. Cool.

0:35:36 > 0:35:38Just like that. That's it. So when you've got this, at that stage...

0:35:38 > 0:35:42Where's the scraper? Gather everything together.

0:35:45 > 0:35:46So where did you invent this recipe?

0:35:46 > 0:35:48Is it a traditional recipe, or is it...?

0:35:48 > 0:35:50No, I was working in the lab, in my little bakery,

0:35:50 > 0:35:53and I had a piece of dough left over and I was starving,

0:35:53 > 0:35:55so I just rolled it out and put it in the oven

0:35:55 > 0:35:58on the hot tray, and it just puffed up. I thought, "Whoa, I like that."

0:35:58 > 0:36:00What I like to do is to bring bread and food together,

0:36:00 > 0:36:02cos bread's always been left on the side a little bit.

0:36:02 > 0:36:05There you go, look at that.

0:36:05 > 0:36:06Baby's bottom.

0:36:14 > 0:36:18So, that's one there. And you leave your dough to rise for...

0:36:18 > 0:36:21But it wants to prove now, so cloth over it. To rest.

0:36:21 > 0:36:26Proving is afterwards. OK. So that's what we end up with, OK?

0:36:26 > 0:36:28Yeah. With this, I'm going to make the puffball now.

0:36:28 > 0:36:31I'll show you. OK. I'm just going to explain what I've got in here.

0:36:31 > 0:36:33I've got some garlic, which I've cooked in some white wine

0:36:33 > 0:36:36just to take the strength off it a bit. Put that into a blender

0:36:36 > 0:36:38with some egg yolks, a bit of Parmesan cheese,

0:36:38 > 0:36:42anchovy, a bit of French mustard,

0:36:42 > 0:36:44and them I'm going to add some oil,

0:36:44 > 0:36:46just to thicken it up into a nice little dressing,

0:36:46 > 0:36:48and then bring it back down again with a bit of water,

0:36:48 > 0:36:50so it's not too thick.

0:36:50 > 0:36:54And my tomatoes and my Parma ham's in the oven. So what next?

0:36:54 > 0:36:57What I'm going to do now is divide little pieces of dough

0:36:57 > 0:36:59like that to make the puffball.

0:37:01 > 0:37:03Roll them nice and tight.

0:37:08 > 0:37:11As a Frenchman and a baker, don't you get upset with the English,

0:37:11 > 0:37:14the way that a lot of the English buy their bread

0:37:14 > 0:37:16and they buy it once a week,

0:37:16 > 0:37:19whereas in France, it's traditional that every day you go down to the...

0:37:19 > 0:37:22There's a demand for good bread. Everybody wants good bread,

0:37:22 > 0:37:24but you don't buy bread just once a week.

0:37:24 > 0:37:27In France, you buy bread every day, it's part of your life all the time.

0:37:27 > 0:37:31Yes. What annoys me is when you read the ingredients in some of the bread

0:37:31 > 0:37:35from the supermarket, you wouldn't eat it. Exactly.

0:37:35 > 0:37:38But you just buy it quite blind, really. Yeah.

0:37:38 > 0:37:42It is possible to make good bread on a big scale. Yeah.

0:37:42 > 0:37:45With no improver, no flavouring, or...

0:37:45 > 0:37:49You're going to prove this by cooking it in a domestic cooker.

0:37:49 > 0:37:53Nice and thin. Like so. Lovely.

0:37:57 > 0:38:01So what's the thickness of this? A couple of millimetres

0:38:01 > 0:38:02or something like that? Yeah.

0:38:02 > 0:38:05One-and-a-half, roughly.

0:38:05 > 0:38:09One-and-a-half millimetres? Yeah. That's precise.

0:38:09 > 0:38:12So, in there. Now, this is special, you've heated up a stone in there.

0:38:12 > 0:38:14We've got the baking stone in the oven.

0:38:14 > 0:38:18You can buy these from a cookware store. In there for a long time.

0:38:18 > 0:38:22And then you preheat your oven and the stone stays hot all the time.

0:38:22 > 0:38:23Keep the heat into it. Right.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26And if you cross your fingers now, hopefully it should puff up.

0:38:26 > 0:38:29So that stone, you can make pizzas and stuff on as well?

0:38:29 > 0:38:32You can make pizza, even the roast, if you roast your meat on top,

0:38:32 > 0:38:35it'll keep a nice heat onto it.

0:38:35 > 0:38:37It's really good. I'll leave you to...

0:38:37 > 0:38:39We've actually got one we've already cooked,

0:38:39 > 0:38:41but you should actually see that start to puff up.

0:38:41 > 0:38:43Now, you need to leave that in for about ten minutes

0:38:43 > 0:38:45to get it nice and hot. Yeah.

0:38:45 > 0:38:48So we're going to fill up the... OK.

0:38:48 > 0:38:50You can fill it all up when you're ready.

0:38:52 > 0:38:55In here, we're going to put a few bits of salad.

0:38:55 > 0:38:56A bit of salad, yeah.

0:38:56 > 0:38:59You don't want anything too wet to start with,

0:38:59 > 0:39:03cos the crust is so thin, you don't want it to seep through the crust.

0:39:03 > 0:39:06That is that for you, sorry. No, that's for you, go on.

0:39:06 > 0:39:09Just put this in there. It's like a big salad sandwich.

0:39:09 > 0:39:13Sort of. This seems itself, a nice little case,

0:39:13 > 0:39:17but I mean, way back in Tudor times, it was served as a...

0:39:17 > 0:39:19Bread used to be part of the table setting,

0:39:19 > 0:39:22it was actually part of the plates. They used to serve food on it. Yeah.

0:39:22 > 0:39:25What annoys me, when you go in a restaurant and they serve you bread

0:39:25 > 0:39:27and you have your starter and the bread goes away.

0:39:27 > 0:39:30I like my bread all the way through the meal.

0:39:30 > 0:39:35Look what you end up with. These are fantastic.

0:39:35 > 0:39:37They're unbelievable.

0:39:37 > 0:39:39The trick with this one is to make a little hole there

0:39:39 > 0:39:41and put all your ingredients inside.

0:39:41 > 0:39:43While you make a little hole, look at this.

0:39:43 > 0:39:47If you check this out, you can see it starting to rise up.

0:39:47 > 0:39:50The secret is, keep it at a nice hot oven, I suppose.

0:39:50 > 0:39:52Nice hot oven, yeah.

0:39:52 > 0:39:55If you want ten perfect ones, expect to do 20 of them.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57Look at that. Whoa!

0:39:57 > 0:40:00Hey-hey!

0:40:00 > 0:40:02Look at that!

0:40:02 > 0:40:04The magic puffball!

0:40:06 > 0:40:09You can come back! Right, what's next?

0:40:09 > 0:40:12We've got our salad and I'm going to stuff it inside it.

0:40:12 > 0:40:15Like so. Do you have your tomatoes? Yeah, they're ready.

0:40:15 > 0:40:17If you bring all this in here. Fantastic.

0:40:17 > 0:40:20I believe, way back in Tudor times, this was called a trencher,

0:40:20 > 0:40:22when they used to serve the bread as a plate, and people would

0:40:22 > 0:40:26eat off it and then they'd give the bread to the poor...

0:40:26 > 0:40:28The bread was the first thing... ..or the animals.

0:40:28 > 0:40:32What are you looking at me for?! I'm just saying.

0:40:32 > 0:40:35Full of history, mate, full of history. Some anchovies.

0:40:35 > 0:40:38Stuff them in there. Be gentle with my puffball.

0:40:38 > 0:40:40I'm gentle with your puffball.

0:40:40 > 0:40:44You British men. I don't know. British brutes.

0:40:44 > 0:40:48There you go. Get 'em in. I'm not surprised you don't win the rugby.

0:40:48 > 0:40:50Get in there.

0:40:50 > 0:40:53You've still got to win it yet. I know.

0:40:56 > 0:40:59The Australian speaking over there. Yeah, I know, exactly.

0:40:59 > 0:41:04Is that enough? Yeah, that should be fine. One more. Close it up.

0:41:04 > 0:41:08This is brilliant, isn't it? Are you ready?

0:41:08 > 0:41:10I've got my dressing separate, but this goes on at the end. OK.

0:41:10 > 0:41:12Here we've got a plate.

0:41:13 > 0:41:17Now, look at that. You take it to the table like that, and then?

0:41:17 > 0:41:19Take it to the table. You got your dressing ready?

0:41:19 > 0:41:23Got my dressing, I'm there. OK, and then you crack it open, like that.

0:41:25 > 0:41:28And then you eat from the inside. Here we go. Look at that.

0:41:28 > 0:41:32So, Richard, remind us what that is again. The magic puffball.

0:41:32 > 0:41:35The magic puffball. Easy.

0:41:41 > 0:41:43So, voila!

0:41:43 > 0:41:46Fantastic. Right, come on over. Have a dive in.

0:41:48 > 0:41:52Tell me what you think. That looks so beautiful.

0:41:52 > 0:41:54Are you going to attempt something like that? Erm, yeah!

0:41:54 > 0:41:59I'm going to be there all night doing my... Can I taste this? Yeah.

0:41:59 > 0:42:03You might want a fork. Yeah, I might. That looks amazing.

0:42:03 > 0:42:07You could use it for a variety of different things. Oh, it's gorgeous.

0:42:07 > 0:42:12Any filling. Rocket. You can use... Just nice...

0:42:12 > 0:42:15Could you put soup in there sometimes?

0:42:15 > 0:42:18Well, I make another dish,

0:42:18 > 0:42:21it's a bit thicker and they make a soup bowl.

0:42:21 > 0:42:24It's baked in a different way, but yeah, you can make a soup bowl with it.

0:42:24 > 0:42:26If you want your soup bowl or you want takeaway,

0:42:26 > 0:42:28you can serve it in the bowl. Yeah, takeaway.

0:42:28 > 0:42:30A lot of work for a takeaway.

0:42:30 > 0:42:32What about little ones, like for kids' school lunches and stuff?

0:42:32 > 0:42:35Yeah, you can do that. That would be quite a clever thing to do.

0:42:35 > 0:42:37You can do a tiny one and cut them square,

0:42:37 > 0:42:39and make some mousse inside.

0:42:39 > 0:42:43For your little kid. Yeah. You'll be coming back from the West End.

0:42:44 > 0:42:46What do you reckon?

0:42:47 > 0:42:51Clever, isn't it? Instead of the crouton, you get the bread as well.

0:42:52 > 0:42:55I like that. I like the crispy bits. And no fat.

0:43:00 > 0:43:03It's great to watch an experienced bread-maker at work.

0:43:03 > 0:43:06Now it's the turn of the West Country to get the Keith Floyd treatment.

0:43:06 > 0:43:09Today, he bumps into a very young-looking Gary Rhodes

0:43:09 > 0:43:12when his travels take him to Taunton.

0:43:12 > 0:43:15My unceasing search for regional culinary excellence has become

0:43:15 > 0:43:17almost like the search of the Holy Grail,

0:43:17 > 0:43:19or as we say in the trade, the Holy Quail.

0:43:19 > 0:43:23So I thought I'd come here and see if can get a little assistance.

0:43:23 > 0:43:27But as Richard Harris said, "There's not a lot in Camelot."

0:43:27 > 0:43:28But is there not?

0:43:28 > 0:43:32Could there not be in this sombre castle behind me

0:43:32 > 0:43:36a culinary Merlin who could cook for me

0:43:36 > 0:43:42an oxtail like you would like to see in Camelot?

0:43:42 > 0:43:45First order! Five covers. One sardine,

0:43:45 > 0:43:47three cream, one broth,

0:43:47 > 0:43:50four liver, one veal for Mrs C, and five veg.

0:43:52 > 0:43:53When I've made my second million...

0:43:53 > 0:43:56No, when I've finished building my small palace in Provence,

0:43:56 > 0:43:59I'll let Gary Rhodes, the chef at the Castle Hotel in Taunton,

0:43:59 > 0:44:00take over my job.

0:44:00 > 0:44:03His skill and passion has silenced the musical hall jokes,

0:44:03 > 0:44:05and put British food where it truly belongs.

0:44:09 > 0:44:11Gary was just recently a finalist

0:44:11 > 0:44:14in a very important gastronomic competition,

0:44:14 > 0:44:16and it had a French name.

0:44:16 > 0:44:19I think that's appalling for a British cook.

0:44:19 > 0:44:21You know, when are we going to get a grip of ourselves?

0:44:21 > 0:44:23Why do we have to be called

0:44:23 > 0:44:26the Munier Ouvrier Gastronomie de Grande Bretagne

0:44:26 > 0:44:29when we could be called A Really Good British Cook?

0:44:29 > 0:44:32Strange, isn't it? Anyway, watch the man. He's the business.

0:44:32 > 0:44:35Right, what I'm going to do is just quickly prep this up.

0:44:35 > 0:44:38I take off all the fat from the actual oxtail itself,

0:44:38 > 0:44:42and obviously retain all that fat, cos I'm a great believer

0:44:42 > 0:44:44in putting as much of the flavour into everything as we can.

0:44:44 > 0:44:46So if we get started straightaway,

0:44:46 > 0:44:49Keith, I've got some oxtail fat that's been rendered here.

0:44:49 > 0:44:52Right, Richard, close-up here, this is very important. Oxtail fat, OK.

0:44:52 > 0:44:54Cook that down, so I keep the maximum flavour.

0:44:54 > 0:44:57When it's fried, we're putting oxtail flavour back into the oxtails.

0:44:57 > 0:44:59So that's the most important thing.

0:44:59 > 0:45:01So I'll stick a little bit of fat in here

0:45:01 > 0:45:03and we'll start to get these oxtails on. Right, OK.

0:45:03 > 0:45:06Notice - all trimmed of fat now, but the fat's been rendered down.

0:45:06 > 0:45:09These have obviously previously been seasoned with salt and pepper,

0:45:09 > 0:45:11and in they go.

0:45:14 > 0:45:17So, I think that'll do us for now. And what do we do?

0:45:17 > 0:45:18We just brown those off...

0:45:18 > 0:45:21Brown those off, almost like roasting them on top of the stove.

0:45:21 > 0:45:24Get a nice good colour off those, seal the flavour in,

0:45:24 > 0:45:26and as I said, using that oxtail fat,

0:45:26 > 0:45:28keep as much flavour in there as possible.

0:45:28 > 0:45:31So we just let those turn in there for a couple of seconds, all right.

0:45:31 > 0:45:33He's going like a train!

0:45:33 > 0:45:37What we need is some...mirepoix of vegetables.

0:45:37 > 0:45:40Mirepoix! Now, hold on, I'll take you to task now.

0:45:40 > 0:45:42We're cooking a British meal

0:45:42 > 0:45:45and you use French words like "mirepoix" for chopping vegetables.

0:45:45 > 0:45:48It's just something I think you get used to. Chopped vegetables.

0:45:48 > 0:45:50Chopped vegetables. Chopped root vegetables.

0:45:50 > 0:45:53So, we've got some onions, celery, carrots, leek in here.

0:45:53 > 0:45:56All that flavour that we're going to put into these oxtails.

0:45:56 > 0:45:58So we'll just quickly turn these.

0:46:01 > 0:46:04Turn them over. Getting a nice bit of brown colour onto these,

0:46:04 > 0:46:08sealing all that flavour inside. Beautiful meaty oxtail.

0:46:09 > 0:46:12As soon as these are actually browned off,

0:46:12 > 0:46:15we'll put them into a colander, drain off the excess fat.

0:46:15 > 0:46:20One thing I don't want is putting the excess fat into our sauce,

0:46:20 > 0:46:23as we'll end up with a fatty-looking sauce.

0:46:26 > 0:46:28You're doing a good job with them.

0:46:29 > 0:46:33Once these are just nice and sealed, we'll get the vegetables

0:46:33 > 0:46:36in the pan to bring off any of the residue from the base of the pan...

0:46:36 > 0:46:39Right. ..putting that into the sauce itself.

0:46:39 > 0:46:42So we're going to strain that oxtail into here,

0:46:42 > 0:46:43then tip the fat back into there again?

0:46:43 > 0:46:46Well, there'll be enough fat in the bottom of there.

0:46:46 > 0:46:47We may need a little bit.

0:46:47 > 0:46:49So if we can get those into there, I'll get the veg. OK.

0:46:49 > 0:46:52Now, the important thing here, as the man is saying,

0:46:52 > 0:46:56when we cook our vegetables...

0:46:56 > 0:46:58Sorry, Richard, were you asleep for a second?

0:46:58 > 0:47:00The point is here, when we cook our vegetables,

0:47:00 > 0:47:05we're going to cook them in the oxtail fat. That's very important.

0:47:05 > 0:47:07At the same time, Gary's making a point for those of you

0:47:07 > 0:47:10who are cholesterol conscious, that the fat's going to be drained away

0:47:10 > 0:47:14from the meat itself, so the fat does not go into the ultimate sauce.

0:47:14 > 0:47:19That's very important. But the fat is used for enhancing the flavours.

0:47:19 > 0:47:23And by God, it's hot in this kitchen. It is, yes.

0:47:23 > 0:47:25If I can just get these vegetables into the pan,

0:47:25 > 0:47:29just enough to take the residue off the base. Right.

0:47:29 > 0:47:31We'll fry those off just for a couple of seconds,

0:47:31 > 0:47:33and then we'll swill out that pan,

0:47:33 > 0:47:35deglazing the pan with a little bit of white wine

0:47:35 > 0:47:39to lift everything off the base there, not wasting anything at all.

0:47:39 > 0:47:41Right. Now, do we want these to take colour in any way?

0:47:41 > 0:47:43Just a slight colour.

0:47:43 > 0:47:45It's really to just moisten them in there.

0:47:48 > 0:47:50The most important thing here,

0:47:50 > 0:47:53cooking oxtails really seems to be a three-day event.

0:47:53 > 0:47:56It's not something that you can really just throw into a pan

0:47:56 > 0:48:00and neglect and leave. It's something that has to be mothered.

0:48:00 > 0:48:04So we start off by making a good oxtail stock, which we have on here.

0:48:04 > 0:48:07That stock will cook out for at least a day.

0:48:07 > 0:48:09And then we'll just reduce that stock down

0:48:09 > 0:48:12until we're left with a good shiny glaze,

0:48:12 > 0:48:14which is what we have in there.

0:48:14 > 0:48:15It's reduced down like that.

0:48:15 > 0:48:19And for those of you who don't know what a three-day event is,

0:48:19 > 0:48:22phone up Princess Anne, cos that isn't where it's at, OK?!

0:48:26 > 0:48:28So, if we put those vegetables in now,

0:48:28 > 0:48:31we take those from the pan, we can put them into here and just...

0:48:31 > 0:48:35On top? Yes, on top of there, just draining off that fat once more.

0:48:35 > 0:48:38And if we can just take a little bit of white wine...

0:48:38 > 0:48:42Oh, right, and this is called rinsing out the pan with white wine.

0:48:42 > 0:48:45Or, as we say, deglasser de pouele.

0:48:52 > 0:48:57Make sure in our economical way we're not losing one smidgen of flavour.

0:48:57 > 0:49:00We've had the fat, we've had the wine to make sure it comes out of it,

0:49:00 > 0:49:04it's all there. It's economic and it's delicious.

0:49:04 > 0:49:05Right, phase next.

0:49:05 > 0:49:11Right, pull a pan in, let's get this on the go. Now, we've drained out...

0:49:11 > 0:49:13All the fat. All the fat's gone.

0:49:15 > 0:49:17Into another pan, which is slightly warm.

0:49:17 > 0:49:20Don't want to put anything into a cold pan, that's the first mistake.

0:49:20 > 0:49:23And in there with our deglazed wine.

0:49:23 > 0:49:25That's enough.

0:49:30 > 0:49:32Now, what I actually need is...

0:49:32 > 0:49:35Can you just see him there, I mean on bass guitar laying it down?

0:49:35 > 0:49:37I mean, it's like that, isn't it?

0:49:37 > 0:49:39What I've actually got here is some tomato.

0:49:39 > 0:49:42Again, I only like to use the flesh of tomatoes, not tomato puree,

0:49:42 > 0:49:44let's just use the flesh.

0:49:44 > 0:49:46You can leave the skins on if you want to,

0:49:46 > 0:49:49but here I've actually chopped some up roughly just to put in there.

0:49:49 > 0:49:52I just want to get the flesh flavour from the tomato into the sauce.

0:49:52 > 0:49:55So we're going to add a little bit of tomato at this stage.

0:49:56 > 0:50:03In terms of rock'n'roll, is this Maybelline? Where is this dish?

0:50:03 > 0:50:07In your feelings. Is that the heart of the British stomach?

0:50:07 > 0:50:09I can't think of a really good question to ask,

0:50:09 > 0:50:12the kitchen is so hot. Tell me about this dish.

0:50:12 > 0:50:15I really do believe that this is the heart of British cooking.

0:50:15 > 0:50:17This is what British cooking is all about.

0:50:17 > 0:50:19I think this holds the fundamental elements

0:50:19 > 0:50:21of good cooking. It really does.

0:50:21 > 0:50:23I think cooking things on the bone, and particularly a thick

0:50:23 > 0:50:27bone like this, there is far more skill in cooking this

0:50:27 > 0:50:31than cooking any duck or chicken breast that you might get in France.

0:50:31 > 0:50:35With this, the degree of cooking for oxtails must be perfect.

0:50:35 > 0:50:38It has to be tender but not falling off the bone and stringy,

0:50:38 > 0:50:40and you cannot undercook it,

0:50:40 > 0:50:42where it is tough and you can't get it off the bone.

0:50:42 > 0:50:44All of that takes about three hours. Shut up!

0:50:44 > 0:50:47It takes about three hours. You've been bossy enough.

0:50:47 > 0:50:49It takes about three hours, my director will dream up some

0:50:49 > 0:50:53little interlude, we will have a glass or maybe even a cup of tea,

0:50:53 > 0:50:57and we will be back when this is beautifully cooked and tasted.

0:50:57 > 0:50:59Look in there, Richard. Slow-cooking in the oven.

0:51:01 > 0:51:06# Every morning, true as the clock Somebody hears the postman's knock

0:51:06 > 0:51:09# Every morning, true as the clock

0:51:09 > 0:51:12# Somebody hears the postman's knock. #

0:51:12 > 0:51:14CHEERING

0:51:14 > 0:51:18Dans les villages du Devon on se prepare pour la Foire de Caen.

0:51:18 > 0:51:23Devant la pub, coin populaire du village, les passiones de folklore

0:51:23 > 0:51:26font leur repetition, car cette annee ce sont les generals du Devon,

0:51:26 > 0:51:30les Devonians, comme on dit, qui sont invites d'honneur a la foire.

0:51:30 > 0:51:32Un, deux, trois!

0:51:34 > 0:51:38So, there it is, that was an amusing interlude. Whack the meat on the plate.

0:51:38 > 0:51:39What have you done in the meantime?

0:51:39 > 0:51:41I have strained out the sauce into there,

0:51:41 > 0:51:44added a little diced vegetable, same ones as in there

0:51:44 > 0:51:46but nice and small, just cooked with butter, some onion

0:51:46 > 0:51:49and tomato, and thrown some parsley in.

0:51:49 > 0:51:53I think it is a nonsense to start sprinkling things with parsley,

0:51:53 > 0:51:55let's get all the flavour out.

0:51:55 > 0:52:00Here we have typical British cooking, very rustic on the plate.

0:52:00 > 0:52:04Full of colour and a lovely shine to the sauce.

0:52:06 > 0:52:11This is what oxtail can do for a sauce. I am just going to nap this on top

0:52:11 > 0:52:16and here I hope we have Britain's signature dish.

0:52:16 > 0:52:18Absolutely brilliant.

0:52:18 > 0:52:21Richard, sniff into that, if only the camera could sniff.

0:52:21 > 0:52:23It smells so good.

0:52:23 > 0:52:28If food was paintings, this would not be a Van Gogh.

0:52:28 > 0:52:33He encapsulated the spirit of Provence. This would be a Joshua Reynolds -

0:52:33 > 0:52:38difficult to define, a bit in the attic, absolutely brilliant and truly British.

0:52:44 > 0:52:48In my Somerset jaunt I couldn't resist revisiting my old alma mater, Wellington School.

0:52:48 > 0:52:52The last time I came around here was on a push bike and they gave me 50 lines.

0:53:04 > 0:53:05Great showing off, isn't it?

0:53:05 > 0:53:09Of course, you must be in sixth form to drive on the grass.

0:53:09 > 0:53:12But, actually, I'm a bit nervous, I am going to meet a few old chums,

0:53:12 > 0:53:15my old masters. They are probably 104 now.

0:53:35 > 0:53:38You might think this is self-indulgent,

0:53:38 > 0:53:43you might think it is nostalgic, a bit wet, but this is actually where,

0:53:43 > 0:53:4730 years ago, I developed my first real passionate interest in food.

0:53:47 > 0:53:51After a hard day learning Latin and playing rugby and scoring tries, the school dinner

0:53:51 > 0:53:56was what you really looked forward to. But times have changed.

0:53:56 > 0:54:01We used to have a drum of baked beans or butter beans, a vat of stew

0:54:01 > 0:54:02and that was it. But now look!

0:54:04 > 0:54:08You can have baked gammon, roast chicken, smoked mackerel,

0:54:08 > 0:54:12tuna fish, assorted cheeses, coleslaw, potatoes, melons.

0:54:12 > 0:54:15Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, chicken casserole,

0:54:15 > 0:54:19seafood au gratin, cheese and broccoli quiche, beefburger and rolls,

0:54:19 > 0:54:22three vegetables, apple tart, stuff like that.

0:54:22 > 0:54:25Wine is extra, ha-ha-ha!

0:54:28 > 0:54:32But I tell you one thing - never mind the vegetarian stews and the quiches,

0:54:32 > 0:54:37one thing that hasn't changed is the steamed pudding with chocolate sauce.

0:54:37 > 0:54:40That's a part of a real school dinner

0:54:40 > 0:54:44and I will have three bowls of this, so it is not all bad.

0:54:49 > 0:54:51Great to see the man in action.

0:54:51 > 0:54:54We're not cooking live today. Instead, we're looking back

0:54:54 > 0:54:58at the mouthwatering cooking from the Saturday Kitchen back catalogue.

0:54:58 > 0:55:02Still to come, the Spaniard versus the honorary Italian

0:55:02 > 0:55:04in the omelette challenge.

0:55:04 > 0:55:06Jose Pizarro meets Theo Randall at the hobs.

0:55:06 > 0:55:09Both men could do with improving their times.

0:55:09 > 0:55:11See how they get on later on.

0:55:11 > 0:55:15Cookery writer Sophie Grigson roasts pheasant.

0:55:15 > 0:55:17She pot-roasts the bird with carrots and Riesling

0:55:17 > 0:55:21and serves it with a stunning baked potato, sweetcorn and saffron mash.

0:55:21 > 0:55:24Gloria Hunniford faced her food heaven or food hell.

0:55:24 > 0:55:27Would she get her food heaven - scallops - with my delicious

0:55:27 > 0:55:30gratinated scallops served in the shell with fresh lobster,

0:55:30 > 0:55:33or a dreaded food hell - rabbit - with my wild rabbit

0:55:33 > 0:55:35and morel stew with olive oil mash?

0:55:35 > 0:55:38Find out what she gets to eat at the end of the show.

0:55:38 > 0:55:40Pub grub in the UK can be great,

0:55:40 > 0:55:42but when the pub has two Michelin stars,

0:55:42 > 0:55:44you expect the food to be outstanding.

0:55:44 > 0:55:47Here's the one and only Tom Kerridge to show us

0:55:47 > 0:55:49just how it should be done.

0:55:49 > 0:55:50What's on the menu?

0:55:50 > 0:55:55We are doing pollock, with some radishes from my garden,

0:55:55 > 0:56:00grown by Andy Crier, some borage flowers from the garden,

0:56:00 > 0:56:04some girolle mushrooms, a nice butter sauce and lardo to go on top.

0:56:04 > 0:56:10Sounds good to me. You will use the pollock we have here. It is more sustainable than cod and haddock.

0:56:10 > 0:56:13That is it. This is Cornish line-caught pollock.

0:56:13 > 0:56:16It's a beautiful piece of fish, very similar to cod.

0:56:16 > 0:56:18Very similar.

0:56:18 > 0:56:24The flakes are a little tighter. It is quite soft, isn't it, when you fillet it?

0:56:24 > 0:56:26That's it, it's quite soft. We are salting it,

0:56:26 > 0:56:29just to draw moisture out of it,

0:56:29 > 0:56:34just to firm the fish up, make it a little bit firmer when it cooks.

0:56:34 > 0:56:39When you look at the fish as a whole, it is like a skinny cod.

0:56:39 > 0:56:42Skinny cod is a fair comment, yeah, skinny cod.

0:56:43 > 0:56:48OK, this is one we have just done, it's been salted for about two hours.

0:56:48 > 0:56:52If there is any excess salt, take off. Portion it up.

0:56:55 > 0:56:59Classic beurre blanc - you have shallots, which you strain off anyway,

0:56:59 > 0:57:02but you want these nice and finely sliced.

0:57:02 > 0:57:05Finely sliced. We strain it off. Pollock goes into a pan.

0:57:05 > 0:57:08I've put it on butter paper, you can use baking parchment

0:57:08 > 0:57:11if you like, but if you have butter paper hanging around...

0:57:11 > 0:57:14I am sure you have 20 packs at your house, Mr Martin.

0:57:14 > 0:57:18It's not true! It's not true! Straight into the oven.

0:57:19 > 0:57:23I have actually gone on to dripping now, mate.

0:57:23 > 0:57:25Does that come in packets? Yes, it does.

0:57:25 > 0:57:29You get it in a 25-kilogram block as well now.

0:57:32 > 0:57:34We have our shallots in there.

0:57:35 > 0:57:39White wine vinegar, white wine, some thyme and some peppercorns.

0:57:39 > 0:57:43Don't chop your finger, James Martin. Don't chop your finger.

0:57:43 > 0:57:45Thank you very much, Gennaro.

0:57:45 > 0:57:47Just in case.

0:57:47 > 0:57:50Little bit of beurre blanc. Classic French-style sauce.

0:57:50 > 0:57:54Classic French sauce. We will bring this down to a glaze. It gives it

0:57:54 > 0:57:59a richness that goes through a butter sauce that we will serve with fish.

0:58:00 > 0:58:04I'll prepare our radishes. Tell us about the mushrooms.

0:58:04 > 0:58:07Girolle mushrooms coming into season now, they are fantastic.

0:58:07 > 0:58:11The Scottish ones are around now. The English ones

0:58:11 > 0:58:16will start growing very soon. With the weather like this, it will be pretty much now.

0:58:18 > 0:58:21Fantastic. Gennaro told me that they smell like apricots.

0:58:21 > 0:58:25Yes. I am not convinced. Smells like pollock. You haven't washed your hands!

0:58:25 > 0:58:30Actually, the name is apricot scented mushroom.

0:58:30 > 0:58:34And I know for sure. When you pick them up

0:58:34 > 0:58:38and go like that, they have a lovely sense of apricot. An orange.

0:58:38 > 0:58:44With the colours. Sounds good to me. Fresh mushrooms are delicious.

0:58:44 > 0:58:46Coming into season now, particularly with the weather.

0:58:46 > 0:58:51But you are not a fan of scrubbing these, you like to wash them as well.

0:58:51 > 0:58:56Wash them. There is a fallacy about mushrooms that you can't wash them

0:58:56 > 0:58:58and they take on too much water.

0:58:58 > 0:59:02We're poaching them almost in a mixture of warm water

0:59:02 > 0:59:07and butter, like an emulsion. Bringing it together. All those lovely flavours will come through.

0:59:07 > 0:59:11A lot of the mushroom water will come out. Bit of salt, beautiful.

0:59:11 > 0:59:15The fish, we should give it a couple of minutes before turning it over?

0:59:15 > 0:59:18Yes, about three minutes either side, probably.

0:59:18 > 0:59:24Butter in the pan, little more butter. There is butter everywhere, it is why I keep inviting you back.

0:59:24 > 0:59:29I love it! OK, so we've butter and radishes.

0:59:29 > 0:59:33These radishes are beautiful, they are peppery, they are fantastic.

0:59:33 > 0:59:35They're lovely and moist.

0:59:35 > 0:59:37You can see all the water in them.

0:59:37 > 0:59:42The problem we discussed earlier, coming from supermarkets, sometimes they come out of the ground too early

0:59:42 > 0:59:46and they leave them there, and the leaves are fantastic to eat, and they dry out.

0:59:46 > 0:59:48We are just going to gently sweat them down.

0:59:48 > 0:59:52Cooked radishes are delicious, particularly when you eat them

0:59:52 > 0:59:56fresh from your garden. There's so much water in there. Absolutely.

0:59:56 > 0:59:58As well as these guys, Olly is doing his festival

0:59:58 > 1:00:02I've done my festival. You are doing a festival. Where are you this summer?

1:00:02 > 1:00:04I am doing Jimmy's Harvest Festival.

1:00:04 > 1:00:05I'm doing a festival!

1:00:09 > 1:00:12You are supposed to do it. I didn't ask you!

1:00:12 > 1:00:14Everyone has to except me?

1:00:14 > 1:00:18I am doing it. That is in the September, isn't it? That is in September.

1:00:18 > 1:00:22It's like Olly's V Festival, there is one in Suffolk

1:00:22 > 1:00:27and one in Oxfordshire, although I'm probably not going by helicopter.

1:00:27 > 1:00:31I wish I was! Some double cream in there.

1:00:31 > 1:00:34Some double cream, we will reduce it down.

1:00:34 > 1:00:38Classic beurre blanc would not have double cream. No. I have it in there to stabilise it,

1:00:38 > 1:00:43so that when you put the butter in, it holds it together.

1:00:43 > 1:00:46So you can make it, if you are making it at home,

1:00:46 > 1:00:49you can keep it warm on the stove for an hour or so, so it doesn't

1:00:49 > 1:00:54split, otherwise you will serve it straightaway so the butter stays.

1:00:54 > 1:00:55So, tell us about your place.

1:00:55 > 1:00:59It is a one-Michelin-starred pub.

1:00:59 > 1:01:04It is not one of those hushed temples of gastronomy.

1:01:04 > 1:01:07It is one of the places where you can go... Proper grub.

1:01:07 > 1:01:11Proper food in an environment... You can come in

1:01:11 > 1:01:16and spend £300 on a bottle of wine, which would be great,

1:01:16 > 1:01:19but if you want a pint of beer and drink local ales

1:01:19 > 1:01:22and have steak and chips, then that is fine as well.

1:01:22 > 1:01:26We're just adding butter to this. Just a little bit.

1:01:26 > 1:01:30Just a little bit. Just a little bit. The secret of this is...

1:01:30 > 1:01:32It is OK with the cream in it,

1:01:32 > 1:01:37but the idea is that you do this on a lower heat. Exactly. Almost off the heat. A gentle heat.

1:01:37 > 1:01:40Just emulsifying the butter, give it a pinch of salt.

1:01:43 > 1:01:47That only wants, what, five minutes? Five minutes at the most.

1:01:47 > 1:01:50Not 20 minutes, because it is not covered.

1:01:52 > 1:01:57You know, we do the harvest festival, me and you. Be careful.

1:01:57 > 1:02:03OK, so the butter is in. We will pass that through a sieve.

1:02:06 > 1:02:10Then we can use this for a variety of sauces. Orange zest, all kinds of stuff. Absolutely.

1:02:10 > 1:02:15Exactly. You can use it as a base for everything.

1:02:17 > 1:02:20Nothing else in there, just the butter on the radishes?

1:02:20 > 1:02:22Just the butter on the radishes, a pinch of salt.

1:02:22 > 1:02:27You can see they are still crisp and just wilted down a little bit.

1:02:27 > 1:02:28Butter sauce ready.

1:02:28 > 1:02:33Fish is about... Another minute-and-a-half.

1:02:33 > 1:02:35So we will start slowly plating up, then.

1:02:35 > 1:02:38Some butter sauce, two different types of radish.

1:02:38 > 1:02:41You can let this go almost cold, can't you? Yes.

1:02:41 > 1:02:44You can let it almost go cold but if you try and reheat it,

1:02:44 > 1:02:46it will split out again. You don't really want that.

1:02:46 > 1:02:49These are the breakfast radishes from your garden.

1:02:49 > 1:02:54Breakfast and round radish from the garden.

1:02:54 > 1:02:59Which is a new addition this year so we are growing courgettes,

1:02:59 > 1:03:02beautiful courgette flowers. The veg guys charge so much for them.

1:03:02 > 1:03:06I don't understand... In Italy, they use courgette flowers all over the place.

1:03:06 > 1:03:09I don't know why you can't find courgette flowers

1:03:09 > 1:03:12in the UK. You can in certain places...

1:03:12 > 1:03:15I remember when I first came to England, there was

1:03:15 > 1:03:18a next-door neighbour who was growing courgettes,

1:03:18 > 1:03:20he had the flower and threw them away,

1:03:20 > 1:03:24so I did not know how to tell him, "Can I have the courgette flower?"

1:03:24 > 1:03:31That looks terrible. So I said, "Can I have those courgette flowers to bring them inside the church?"

1:03:31 > 1:03:34I stuffed them and enjoyed it.

1:03:36 > 1:03:40On top of the fish, which is in the oven, we have this. Tell us about this.

1:03:40 > 1:03:48Lardo. This is an Italian cured pork back fat. This is one I have done this myself.

1:03:48 > 1:03:52Have you heard of Mangalitsa pigs? The hairy ones? The hairy ones.

1:03:52 > 1:03:54They've a really high fat content

1:03:54 > 1:03:58so we have taken the fat off the belly and we have cured it for about

1:03:58 > 1:04:02three weeks, washed it and dried it, hung it up in the beer cellar, which

1:04:02 > 1:04:06really pleased my restaurant manager, she was happy about that,

1:04:06 > 1:04:09and then sliced it very thinly on a gravity slicer

1:04:09 > 1:04:13so we have this beautiful, thin cured flavours of pork coming through.

1:04:13 > 1:04:16You could eat that with salad. On toast!

1:04:16 > 1:04:21Just a little of that on toast with some Parmesan, or any cheese, on top.

1:04:21 > 1:04:25It's fantastic. I love this dish.

1:04:25 > 1:04:27The fish is now cooked.

1:04:27 > 1:04:30The fish is cooked. OK.

1:04:30 > 1:04:35Fish into the middle of the plate and on top of that, a little piece

1:04:35 > 1:04:40of this home-cured lardo. And if you don't have that, then some Serrano would be fine.

1:04:40 > 1:04:45It just goes transparent straightaway. Cures down.

1:04:45 > 1:04:50Then onto that we put some borage flowers that are also fresh from our garden.

1:04:50 > 1:04:53It's very pretty. It's a pretty dish.

1:04:53 > 1:04:56The flowers taste of cucumbers and oysters.

1:04:56 > 1:05:02Cucumbers and oysters mixed into one. There we go.

1:05:02 > 1:05:04You can use the leaves of the borage as well.

1:05:04 > 1:05:08And this is pollock- line-caught Cornish pollock - with radishes, girolles

1:05:08 > 1:05:11and borage flowers. Told you he was good.

1:05:16 > 1:05:18Looks delicious.

1:05:18 > 1:05:22I know it will taste delicious, so, Olly, you get another turn.

1:05:25 > 1:05:26It is a pretty dish, isn't it?

1:05:27 > 1:05:30I don't want to ruin it.

1:05:30 > 1:05:32When you salt the fish like that, you change the texture.

1:05:32 > 1:05:35Makes it quite firm, always quite meaty, which is

1:05:35 > 1:05:41why the pork...the fat goes with it really well. Good mushroom.

1:05:41 > 1:05:46Taste that with the lardo. It is really thin, almost like clingfilm.

1:05:49 > 1:05:54Good? Yes. He is happy with that, I don't think you will get a look-in.

1:05:58 > 1:06:01That's what I like to see - plenty of butter.

1:06:01 > 1:06:03Both men could improve their times

1:06:03 > 1:06:07but could Theo Randall and Jose Pizarro improve their omelette-making skills?

1:06:07 > 1:06:09I did have my fingers crossed.

1:06:09 > 1:06:12Let's get down to business. All the chefs who come on the show

1:06:12 > 1:06:14battle it out against the clock to see how fast

1:06:14 > 1:06:18they can make a three-egg omelette. Boys, respectable times, very close.

1:06:18 > 1:06:2427 and 28 seconds, but a long way to beat Mr Rankin with 15.12 seconds.

1:06:24 > 1:06:27Can you beat that? I don't know how he does it.

1:06:27 > 1:06:30You can choose from the ingredients in front of you.

1:06:30 > 1:06:33You've got to make sure it is an omelette and not scrambled eggs.

1:06:33 > 1:06:37We have Italy versus Spain. Let's put the clocks on the screens, please.

1:06:37 > 1:06:39Three, two, one. Go!

1:06:43 > 1:06:44There you go.

1:06:46 > 1:06:48Looking good so far, level pegging.

1:06:52 > 1:06:53Look at the concentration!

1:06:55 > 1:06:58Make sure it is an omelette.

1:07:01 > 1:07:03Pretty good. Still pretty good.

1:07:05 > 1:07:07Theo has half of his on the stove.

1:07:09 > 1:07:14And Jose still has half of his in the pan. That's all right.

1:07:14 > 1:07:17At least I can eat it.

1:07:19 > 1:07:22It is all right. You always criticise my omelette!

1:07:22 > 1:07:25Jose, this was supposed to be three-egg.

1:07:25 > 1:07:27It is three-egg there!

1:07:33 > 1:07:35Doesn't look good to me.

1:07:40 > 1:07:40Not this time.

1:07:44 > 1:07:45Sorry!

1:07:48 > 1:07:51I have more shell than I have omelette.

1:07:51 > 1:07:55Right, Theo, I am still chewing on it!

1:08:00 > 1:08:05You were quicker. Was I? Yes. And it is an omelette. This is killing me.

1:08:05 > 1:08:11You did it not in 27 seconds, but in 23.48. So there you go.

1:08:11 > 1:08:19Claire and Mr Aitken there, on there, somewhere. Jose.

1:08:25 > 1:08:27You did it quicker.

1:08:27 > 1:08:3021.80.

1:08:30 > 1:08:34Pretty good. But of course, there is more shell than there is omelette.

1:08:34 > 1:08:36Not going on the board.

1:08:39 > 1:08:44They were one-and-a-half egg omelettes not three-egg omelettes. And Jose?

1:08:44 > 1:08:46Leave the shell off the plate next time(!)

1:08:46 > 1:08:50Now, Sophie is fully in charge and is embracing the game season

1:08:50 > 1:08:53armed with a pheasant and a bottle of Riesling.

1:08:53 > 1:08:57So, it is meat and veg. But it is pheasant we are talking about.

1:08:57 > 1:08:59It is pheasant. What's the dish we are cooking?

1:08:59 > 1:09:02I'm going to be cooking... Can I get started while I am talking to you?

1:09:02 > 1:09:05Fire away. Oh, fingers. What am I doing? Chuck it in.

1:09:05 > 1:09:07I am cooking pheasant pot roast

1:09:07 > 1:09:11and pot roast is just the best way of cooking meat, with...

1:09:11 > 1:09:16Let's get rid of that. ..with Riesling and carrots.

1:09:16 > 1:09:18It's funny, when you think game,

1:09:18 > 1:09:22a lot of people tend to think red wine, dark.

1:09:22 > 1:09:25But pheasant isn't that dark actually. It is quite a light meat.

1:09:25 > 1:09:28By the way, James, can you do a bit of work for me?

1:09:28 > 1:09:30Could you slice some onion and chop some garlic?

1:09:30 > 1:09:33Pheasants are bang in season at the moment, aren't they?

1:09:33 > 1:09:35They start October 1st till February,

1:09:35 > 1:09:39you can get pheasants nowadays. I was wondering about this today and

1:09:39 > 1:09:41I forgot to look it up before I came.

1:09:41 > 1:09:46What is it that starts its season on September 1st? Pheasant is October.

1:09:46 > 1:09:49It is not grouse, that is the glorious 12th. We all remember that.

1:09:49 > 1:09:51It is not pigeon because they are all over the place.

1:09:51 > 1:09:53Let's give up on that question and move on.

1:09:53 > 1:09:55Somebody will phone in and find out.

1:09:55 > 1:09:59Now, normally, I would take this quite slowly

1:09:59 > 1:10:01and really brown the meat,

1:10:01 > 1:10:03and the browning gives lots and lots of flavour,

1:10:03 > 1:10:07it caramelises it. Now, you are cooking two in there.

1:10:07 > 1:10:11So, one hen, which is normally smaller,

1:10:11 > 1:10:14and the cock bird, the male, is normally larger.

1:10:14 > 1:10:16Some people prefer the cocks - more flavour and more meat -

1:10:16 > 1:10:23but the hen is delicate. So, if you get both, you can have a good choice

1:10:23 > 1:10:25and a good mix, but it depends how

1:10:25 > 1:10:27you get your pheasant, really, doesn't it?

1:10:27 > 1:10:30Where do you think the best place is to buy pheasant from?

1:10:30 > 1:10:32Really good butchers, I think,

1:10:32 > 1:10:35because you know exactly where it is from. How are you doing over there?

1:10:35 > 1:10:39I'm doing fine. I need those now. Shall I pop a little bit of butter...

1:10:39 > 1:10:41I'm not trying to rush you or anything there.

1:10:41 > 1:10:44Have you done my garlic? I'll do your garlic. Give it me here.

1:10:44 > 1:10:49Take the garlic. Give me... I'll have that. Excuse me.

1:10:49 > 1:10:53Yeah, good game dealers, much better actually than a supermarket.

1:10:53 > 1:10:56You can get them in the supermarket, but they are more expensive.

1:10:56 > 1:10:57Much more expensive,

1:10:57 > 1:11:00and a lot of the game dealers will actually give them away, won't they?

1:11:00 > 1:11:02If you are nice to them.

1:11:02 > 1:11:06If you are very nice, and if you shoot or have a husband or friend

1:11:06 > 1:11:09who shoots, then you can often get them for free, actually.

1:11:09 > 1:11:11Fantastic.

1:11:11 > 1:11:14But you do have to face plucking and hanging,

1:11:14 > 1:11:17but if you've got a good friendly butcher, they'll do it for you.

1:11:17 > 1:11:19The secret is to hang them but not too much.

1:11:19 > 1:11:21My grandad used to get these and hang them

1:11:21 > 1:11:22till the neck dropped off...

1:11:22 > 1:11:26Are you working on those? ..horrible things. No, no. You don't.

1:11:26 > 1:11:28Those old folk tales about hanging them

1:11:28 > 1:11:31till the maggots are dripping out and, urgh! Disgusting!

1:11:31 > 1:11:34Pheasant isn't like that. It is actually quite a mild meat.

1:11:34 > 1:11:39It is really not that much stronger than chicken.

1:11:39 > 1:11:40It's very, very similar.

1:11:40 > 1:11:43Your hotel that is due to reopen,

1:11:43 > 1:11:46I mean, sort of, a year of renovation.

1:11:46 > 1:11:48You cook much game on the menu? Yeah, love game. It's fantastic.

1:11:48 > 1:11:52This time of year we really start to use a lot of game,

1:11:52 > 1:11:54as we seek to have more comfort foods

1:11:54 > 1:11:55for the winter and autumn.

1:11:55 > 1:11:57What do you think about pot roasting?

1:11:57 > 1:12:00It is a great technique. It is not used so much these days

1:12:00 > 1:12:03but it is great for home cooking. It's fantastic. Brilliant.

1:12:03 > 1:12:07Do you not use it in restaurants at all? Not really. Why not?

1:12:07 > 1:12:09"Why not?!" Why not? What's wrong with it?

1:12:09 > 1:12:13We slow cook, but, yes, we do. I mean, it's not to say we don't,

1:12:13 > 1:12:17but we generally use a lot of slow-cooking techniques these days,

1:12:17 > 1:12:23but we tend to cook medium rare, rather than well done,

1:12:23 > 1:12:25long braises, but we do do braising.

1:12:25 > 1:12:28We do pot roasts with belly pork and things like that. Lovely.

1:12:28 > 1:12:31What else are you up to? I have just put my PEASANTS,

1:12:31 > 1:12:33my PHEASANTS back in. If I was doing this at home,

1:12:33 > 1:12:35I'd cook the onion really, really slowly.

1:12:35 > 1:12:38I think a lot of people fry onion too fast

1:12:38 > 1:12:41and it needs to just gently develop its natural sweetness...

1:12:41 > 1:12:44Ooh! Chuck the whole carrots in?

1:12:44 > 1:12:48Carrots can just go straight in. Pop those in.

1:12:48 > 1:12:51I've put some seasoning in and I'm also putting in

1:12:51 > 1:12:53some whole sprigs of tarragon,

1:12:53 > 1:12:56and this is a herb that I just love. Quite a strong herb.

1:12:56 > 1:12:59It is a strong herb and we all know that it goes well with chicken,

1:12:59 > 1:13:02but it also goes well with pheasant.

1:13:02 > 1:13:04I have put in some white wine, you don't need a lot of liquid

1:13:04 > 1:13:07when you are pot roasting because the actual birds themselves

1:13:07 > 1:13:10and the vegetables will produce quite a lot of liquid as well.

1:13:10 > 1:13:14And you just leave that to simmer away very gently for...

1:13:14 > 1:13:20I don't know, 45 minutes or so, give or take, and that miracle of chicken...

1:13:20 > 1:13:23Miracle of chicken! Miracle of television.

1:13:23 > 1:13:26I'm taking these out for your mash, is that right? You are. Good.

1:13:26 > 1:13:28Yes, I notice you are doing really well there.

1:13:28 > 1:13:30Can I just show you? These have been simmering away for quite

1:13:30 > 1:13:34a while now and I am going to add a little bit of cream around them.

1:13:34 > 1:13:36In fact, I am also going to take my birds out

1:13:36 > 1:13:41so they get a few minutes to rest. Have you got a spare plate?

1:13:41 > 1:13:45Spare plate, yes. You bake your potatoes for your mash? I do.

1:13:45 > 1:13:49My mum always did and I always do too, and it is great

1:13:49 > 1:13:55because it gives a really nice, dry flesh that absorbs the milk

1:13:55 > 1:13:58and the other flavours really well, and if you boil them, it is

1:13:58 > 1:14:01wetter and you have less flavour, or you will have to

1:14:01 > 1:14:05dry your potato off, so I love the flavour of baked potatoes.

1:14:05 > 1:14:07I like the skins. I could quite happily...

1:14:07 > 1:14:09Well, you could save the skins

1:14:09 > 1:14:12and do sort of crisp potato skins the next day.

1:14:12 > 1:14:14You can eat that like it is. Absolutely.

1:14:14 > 1:14:16A big lump of butter in there. Have you put...

1:14:16 > 1:14:19Have I done what? You are doing wonderfully. Just mash the potatoes.

1:14:19 > 1:14:23Am I confusing you here? It's like being back at school, isn't it?!

1:14:23 > 1:14:25"What?! What?! What have I done?"

1:14:25 > 1:14:29To be honest, James, it is not often that I get a chef working for me.

1:14:29 > 1:14:31I just cook at home, just a domestic cook,

1:14:31 > 1:14:34and I am going to make the most of it.

1:14:34 > 1:14:37In here I have got some milk, which I am infusing with saffron.

1:14:37 > 1:14:40I love saffron. Do you use saffron a lot?

1:14:40 > 1:14:42I do, but I think people make the mistake,

1:14:42 > 1:14:43when they are buying saffron,

1:14:43 > 1:14:46when they go abroad and they go to sort of Tunisia

1:14:46 > 1:14:49and those souk markets, and they look at saffron and see how

1:14:49 > 1:14:53cheap it is - it is not saffron, is it? It is the outer shell.

1:14:53 > 1:14:57It just can't be cheap. Can I just borrow that?

1:14:57 > 1:14:59Saffron - it's an expensive spice

1:14:59 > 1:15:02because the harvest can easily be ruined.

1:15:02 > 1:15:05Each flower... And it comes from a crocus.

1:15:05 > 1:15:07Each flower has to be picked by hand.

1:15:07 > 1:15:09It is more expensive than gold, per ounce.

1:15:09 > 1:15:12Yes, and the little threads pulled out from inside. Now, what do I need?

1:15:12 > 1:15:15Don't make the mistake my mate did when he was over in Tunisia.

1:15:15 > 1:15:18He bought some saffron back, that he thought was cheap,

1:15:18 > 1:15:22and he also brought some ground cumin in a kilogram bag.

1:15:22 > 1:15:26Customs at Calais... No, they didn't! Calais wasn't impressed.

1:15:26 > 1:15:27I bet they weren't!

1:15:27 > 1:15:31They took all the wheels off his car and everything. Oh, really?

1:15:31 > 1:15:33It was that bad? Again, I'd leave the milk to infuse with

1:15:33 > 1:15:36the saffron in for a bit longer. Am I mixing this?

1:15:36 > 1:15:39You can mix that. I will get a plate ready.

1:15:39 > 1:15:43And just attack these birds. How is that doing?

1:15:43 > 1:15:46Would you say, with saffron like this, the strands or powder?

1:15:46 > 1:15:48I always use strands,

1:15:48 > 1:15:50partly because I like to be able to see what they look like.

1:15:50 > 1:15:53If you are buying it here, you won't have a problem,

1:15:53 > 1:15:55but with the strands, you can tell it's saffron.

1:15:55 > 1:15:57If it is a powdered thing,

1:15:57 > 1:15:59then all you have got is just red powder.

1:15:59 > 1:16:03Do you know, the worst thing is, sometimes if you buy saffron abroad

1:16:03 > 1:16:05and it is very cheap, it can be marigold petals

1:16:05 > 1:16:07but there is actually a related crocus,

1:16:07 > 1:16:10which is used, which is poisonous.

1:16:10 > 1:16:11Is it? Yes. You wouldn't want that.

1:16:11 > 1:16:14Do you want to put the sweetcorn in here?

1:16:14 > 1:16:17I would like you to put the sweetcorn. Shall I pass it over?

1:16:17 > 1:16:20It's very nice having you do all this work. Sweetcorn. Thank you.

1:16:20 > 1:16:23Are you going to carve as well, because you are so good at carving?

1:16:23 > 1:16:26Fresh sweetcorn. You're left-handed you see. It's a bit awkward.

1:16:26 > 1:16:29Do I have to carve it as well? Sorry?

1:16:29 > 1:16:32No, I am just going to go home now and let you do it all.

1:16:32 > 1:16:35How is my mash doing? Have you put any seasoning in it?

1:16:35 > 1:16:36It is seasoned. Done it. Gorgeous.

1:16:36 > 1:16:40You'd come along and do perfect slices, wouldn't you? Yes. OK.

1:16:40 > 1:16:42Do you want me to do that for you?

1:16:42 > 1:16:45JAMES LAUGHS I am going. Is that all right?

1:16:45 > 1:16:47You don't need me really.

1:16:47 > 1:16:49You stick the mash on the plate, there you go.

1:16:49 > 1:16:53I am allowed to do that, am I?! Stick the mash on it. Good. OK.

1:16:53 > 1:16:58A bit of mash on the plate. Isn't that the most fantastic colour?

1:16:58 > 1:17:00I would use, while it is still around,

1:17:00 > 1:17:03and it is just still around... You like your mash, don't you, love?

1:17:03 > 1:17:06Look at that.

1:17:06 > 1:17:09Go on, you would use what? Are you being difficult?

1:17:09 > 1:17:14No, I am not being difficult. Can I finish? Fire away. Can I finish?

1:17:14 > 1:17:16It is so difficult having you around, honestly.

1:17:16 > 1:17:18I'm surprised anyone comes back on your show.

1:17:18 > 1:17:22They've got a queue of people to come on here. Yeah, well, once only.

1:17:22 > 1:17:23THEY LAUGH

1:17:23 > 1:17:25I was going to put a little bit of the sauce around,

1:17:25 > 1:17:28just a little bit of cream and carrots

1:17:28 > 1:17:31and that Riesling, which gives it a lovely flavour as well.

1:17:31 > 1:17:34That looks lovely.

1:17:34 > 1:17:38I thought you people from Yorkshire - you like big portions, don't you?

1:17:38 > 1:17:40I do. That is a starter for me. Remind us what that is again.

1:17:40 > 1:17:42I was looking for the tarragon.

1:17:42 > 1:17:46That is pot-roast pheasant with Riesling and carrots,

1:17:46 > 1:17:49on a saffron and sweetcorn mash. Delicious.

1:17:54 > 1:17:58Right then. Follow me, Soph. I think there is enough for you guys here.

1:17:58 > 1:18:02Dive into that. I don't know what the others are going to eat!

1:18:02 > 1:18:05I have got to say, that is one thick bird. Excuse me?!

1:18:05 > 1:18:07We have only just met earlier.

1:18:07 > 1:18:10I know these people, they come off the moors, don't they?

1:18:10 > 1:18:12And they say, "Bagged six today."

1:18:12 > 1:18:15It's the shooting season for these, but you get about ten of them

1:18:15 > 1:18:17running around our country lanes at a time.

1:18:17 > 1:18:20You could just run them down. They are really, really...

1:18:20 > 1:18:23Why is it, when it is out of season, you hardly see them

1:18:23 > 1:18:26and then, "Yoo-hoo! Here I am! Come and get me!"?

1:18:26 > 1:18:30I have had one run in front of my car for about two minutes. Dive in.

1:18:30 > 1:18:34Tell me what you think. Thanks very much. I'll just...

1:18:34 > 1:18:39It looks absolutely... "Shaun, just get a piece in your mouth."

1:18:39 > 1:18:43This is television, dead air, get it in there. Approve?

1:18:43 > 1:18:45Is that all he is allowed to have?

1:18:45 > 1:18:48Well, Michael is waiting at the end, you know.

1:18:48 > 1:18:51As well as pheasant, you could use guinea fowl.

1:18:51 > 1:18:53Although guinea fowl is farmed nowadays in some places.

1:18:53 > 1:18:57Most of it is farmed, yes. Or you could use chicken.

1:18:57 > 1:19:01It is a bit dull but a good, free-range chicken with a bit of flavour in it.

1:19:01 > 1:19:04It's a chicken texture but with a really...

1:19:04 > 1:19:07It's not a strong, strong flavour, is it? No, but it is different.

1:19:07 > 1:19:10I was going to ask Sophie - do you think the red-legged

1:19:10 > 1:19:12or the grey-legged pheasant is better?

1:19:12 > 1:19:16It's partridge. One is French and one is English, isn't it?

1:19:16 > 1:19:19You know, to be honest, I take what I can get. Take what you can get.

1:19:23 > 1:19:25I am not saying she was bossy,

1:19:25 > 1:19:28but she certainly was in control of that kitchen.

1:19:28 > 1:19:31TV presenter and my former Strictly Come Dancing colleague

1:19:31 > 1:19:33Gloria Hunniford loves nothing better than cooking

1:19:33 > 1:19:36shellfish at her dinner parties, and rabbit would definitely not

1:19:36 > 1:19:39be on the menu, but there was a distinct possibility

1:19:39 > 1:19:42she'd have to eat it when it came to facing her food heaven or food hell.

1:19:42 > 1:19:43So let's see what she got.

1:19:43 > 1:19:46Everyone in the studio has made their minds up.

1:19:46 > 1:19:49Just to remind you, food heaven is looking at you right here.

1:19:49 > 1:19:52Beautiful lobster with another of your food heavens, scallops.

1:19:52 > 1:19:55Alternatively, it could be the old rabbit, which

1:19:55 > 1:19:57we've got over here, which could be transformed into a little stew

1:19:57 > 1:19:59with morel mushrooms and bits and pieces.

1:19:59 > 1:20:01How do you think these lot have decided?

1:20:01 > 1:20:05Our viewers at home wanted 3-0. What about these guys?

1:20:05 > 1:20:07Erm...heaven I think.

1:20:07 > 1:20:11If I say at least two of them picked food hell... They did not!

1:20:11 > 1:20:13Yes, they did. Are you being serious?

1:20:13 > 1:20:16But you have got to thank these two for picking food heaven,

1:20:16 > 1:20:18because these guys decided that you are going to eat lobster.

1:20:18 > 1:20:21It's the girls over there. Fantastic! Yes!

1:20:21 > 1:20:23Right, so what we are going to do?

1:20:23 > 1:20:26I just think that lobster is so expensive that

1:20:26 > 1:20:28you just can't have it as the norm

1:20:28 > 1:20:31and so, therefore, it is always a treat and I keep it as a treat.

1:20:31 > 1:20:34It is a treat and what we are going to do is quickly prepare it.

1:20:34 > 1:20:36This is a cooked lobster, obviously,

1:20:36 > 1:20:39because lobsters are purple normally before they are cooked.

1:20:39 > 1:20:41We just take out the tail. That is the bit I couldn't do.

1:20:41 > 1:20:43I couldn't put a screaming lobster into the pot.

1:20:43 > 1:20:48The secret is, you do not cook it in boiling, boiling water.

1:20:48 > 1:20:50You want them in hot water, but not boiling, boiling water,

1:20:50 > 1:20:52because their legs fall off, you see.

1:20:52 > 1:20:54It's their defence mechanism.

1:20:54 > 1:20:57They go, "It is a bit hot in here," and their legs fly off.

1:20:57 > 1:20:59Can't blame them! Can't blame them, really,

1:20:59 > 1:21:01but we have here a nice bit of lobster.

1:21:01 > 1:21:03We are going to remove the claw out of here.

1:21:03 > 1:21:05The guys are prepping up our scallops.

1:21:05 > 1:21:08Just opening the scallops and taking the meat out.

1:21:08 > 1:21:12I have to tell you it is about 80 degrees standing here.

1:21:12 > 1:21:13The pans are so hot!

1:21:13 > 1:21:18We have only got seven minutes to cook this, Gloria. Well, six now.

1:21:18 > 1:21:20As the producer tells me, we have got six.

1:21:20 > 1:21:22But you are a good mover, James,

1:21:22 > 1:21:24so, therefore, you should be able to do it in that time.

1:21:24 > 1:21:27Well, we spent many, many a Saturday night together, didn't we?

1:21:27 > 1:21:30Yes, we did. We did Strictly the second year, didn't we?

1:21:30 > 1:21:31We did 2006.

1:21:31 > 1:21:35While you are bashing that, the thing that makes me laugh,

1:21:35 > 1:21:37people always say, "When you are standing, waiting to go down

1:21:37 > 1:21:40"the steps, to float down the steps at the beginning,

1:21:40 > 1:21:42"what do you do? What do you talk about?"

1:21:42 > 1:21:45And James was always behind me in terms of order

1:21:45 > 1:21:48and we used to talk about his organic vegetables.

1:21:48 > 1:21:50We would be standing up there in all the frocks,

1:21:50 > 1:21:53with James in his perma tan and sequins. He did!

1:21:53 > 1:21:55The first week, he came in and went,

1:21:55 > 1:21:57"I don't want any of those sequins or anything."

1:21:57 > 1:21:59And by week three, he was going,

1:21:59 > 1:22:02"Can I just have a bit more glitter over here?"

1:22:02 > 1:22:05It was Darren Gough that went out... He looked like a windsock...

1:22:05 > 1:22:08Sorry, Darren. But he was a big guy.

1:22:08 > 1:22:11I wasn't little, though, was I? But he was a big bloke.

1:22:11 > 1:22:15You lost a lot of weight though. Three-and-a-half stone.

1:22:15 > 1:22:17Great fun though. It is fantastic, fantastic fun.

1:22:17 > 1:22:19Camilla you danced with?

1:22:19 > 1:22:23Exactly, and we got to the semifinal, but it was, literally,

1:22:23 > 1:22:25as we were waiting at the top of the stairs,

1:22:25 > 1:22:27everybody was psyching themselves up.

1:22:27 > 1:22:29You had Mr Darren Gough, Colin Jackson all psyching

1:22:29 > 1:22:31themselves up, wouldn't speak to you for about half an hour

1:22:31 > 1:22:35beforehand, and we were just talking about carrots and leeks.

1:22:35 > 1:22:37I know. You had just done your new organic patch

1:22:37 > 1:22:40so I would be going, "How are the carrots, then?"

1:22:40 > 1:22:42But it was good. It was good.

1:22:42 > 1:22:45Right. Gloria, I am just going to show you a nice little sauce.

1:22:45 > 1:22:48We have got in here a little bit of roe in there.

1:22:48 > 1:22:50A little bit of shallot, a little bit of...

1:22:50 > 1:22:52Can I just squeeze by you, darling?

1:22:52 > 1:22:55I'm so sorry. I don't know where to go here. Should I go the other side?

1:22:55 > 1:22:58White wine is going to go in there as well.

1:22:58 > 1:23:00Just to recap, what have you put in here so far?

1:23:00 > 1:23:03The shallots, the roe from the scallops, white wine.

1:23:03 > 1:23:05We have got in here some fish stock.

1:23:05 > 1:23:07And you always use the roe from the scallops, do you?

1:23:07 > 1:23:12I do for the sauce, because I don't really put them in this dish.

1:23:12 > 1:23:15Cream? Double cream. Double cream, excuse me.

1:23:15 > 1:23:19You know, on your headstone, when you finally snuff it,

1:23:19 > 1:23:22it will have Mr Butter And Cream. Sponsored by Butter, yeah.

1:23:22 > 1:23:24We have got in here some mustard.

1:23:24 > 1:23:27This is just a little bit of French mustard.

1:23:27 > 1:23:29You can use English mustard. That just gives it a really nice tang.

1:23:29 > 1:23:31It is just going to give it a nice little flavour.

1:23:31 > 1:23:33The scallops are cooked nicely.

1:23:33 > 1:23:36We have our shells which have been washed.

1:23:36 > 1:23:38You keep the flat part of the shells.

1:23:38 > 1:23:39The chefs are on a roll.

1:23:39 > 1:23:41I don't know where to put myself, to be honest,

1:23:41 > 1:23:44because you are all rushing around. Is this OK? It's fine.

1:23:44 > 1:23:47We have got our little shells here. This meat is cooked.

1:23:47 > 1:23:50Inside the lobsters, there is a little membrane,

1:23:50 > 1:23:55so be careful with this one. Take that membrane out, it is hard.

1:23:55 > 1:23:57A lobster has one claw to hold things with,

1:23:57 > 1:23:59and the small claw is to rip the bits up.

1:23:59 > 1:24:02It is always found on this bigger claw, is this larger membrane.

1:24:02 > 1:24:05You need to take that out. Otherwise, we have a jaw like yours.

1:24:05 > 1:24:07Exactly! No, I feel sorry for him

1:24:07 > 1:24:10because it's actually quite difficult to talk, isn't it?

1:24:10 > 1:24:12It's not great at the moment, Gloria, I have to say.

1:24:12 > 1:24:14I can't eat anything. I am sympathising.

1:24:14 > 1:24:17I am making excuses for you in other words.

1:24:17 > 1:24:20It is a bit of cow stuck in my jaw, which is not the most... Moo!

1:24:20 > 1:24:23Anyway, thank you very much.

1:24:23 > 1:24:25You are going to be hearing this for years to come.

1:24:25 > 1:24:29I just knew that was coming. I knew that was coming.

1:24:29 > 1:24:30"How is your jawww?"

1:24:30 > 1:24:33So what have you put in here? Well, Michael has done this.

1:24:33 > 1:24:37It is a little bit of thinly sliced, julienne of carrot

1:24:37 > 1:24:42and courgette, and if you can grate me the cheese, that would be great.

1:24:42 > 1:24:45What we are going to do is just grab some of this...

1:24:45 > 1:24:48Chop me some chives, please, Nick. That would be great.

1:24:48 > 1:24:49We have our scallops here.

1:24:49 > 1:24:51How would I love to have people like you in the kitchen?

1:24:51 > 1:24:55"Just chop me some chives, please. Can you just pass me..."

1:24:55 > 1:25:00These two are very cheap, so you are all right.

1:25:00 > 1:25:03THEY LAUGH Like the jokes!

1:25:03 > 1:25:04Like YOUR jokes, James.

1:25:04 > 1:25:06So the idea is we just put the lobster in like this.

1:25:06 > 1:25:08Some chives here for you.

1:25:08 > 1:25:10And you keep piling this up and piling this up.

1:25:10 > 1:25:14Is it all right if I take these two home? I am entertaining tomorrow.

1:25:14 > 1:25:19Are you? Good thought. What we do is we grab some of our sauce.

1:25:19 > 1:25:24Chives in here? Chives in there, please. Chives in this one.

1:25:24 > 1:25:27A little bit more chives in there, please. Thank you.

1:25:27 > 1:25:29We are going to season this up as well.

1:25:29 > 1:25:32So the great thing about this, you can do this at a little

1:25:32 > 1:25:34dinner party, you see. You can make this beforehand. I know.

1:25:34 > 1:25:36I just get home from the studio and seven minutes later,

1:25:36 > 1:25:38I'd have the dinner party done.

1:25:38 > 1:25:41If you take these home. Excuse me, I want to put some chives in as well.

1:25:41 > 1:25:45I have to contribute something to this sauce. Lovely chive moves!

1:25:45 > 1:25:49Then the idea is we grab our sauce now.

1:25:49 > 1:25:52It is quite a thin sauce. Should it be like that? No.

1:25:52 > 1:25:55It should be more reduced. It is a time issue.

1:25:55 > 1:25:57Sorry, I did ask the wrong question.

1:25:57 > 1:26:00It is a time issue, Gloria. I haven't got time, love. All right?

1:26:00 > 1:26:02All right. But it would thicken up.

1:26:02 > 1:26:04Yes, it will thicken up, as it reduces down.

1:26:04 > 1:26:06Aren't you glad you have a real professional?

1:26:06 > 1:26:09Don't do that, because he will start to take the mickey out of me!

1:26:09 > 1:26:11My self esteem is too low.

1:26:11 > 1:26:14A little bit of the crumbs and Gruyere cheese on top. Lovely.

1:26:14 > 1:26:19Under the grill, Mr Nick Nairn. Here we go. Under a very hot grill.

1:26:19 > 1:26:22You could put mushrooms in there if you wanted.

1:26:22 > 1:26:24About 45 seconds in there.

1:26:24 > 1:26:29Now to serve this, get some ladders, go up on your roof

1:26:29 > 1:26:31and get a bit of slate, Gloria.

1:26:31 > 1:26:35I know. This is the new trendy stuff!

1:26:35 > 1:26:39I was at a do recently and one of the comics said, "It is getting

1:26:39 > 1:26:42"a bit much when you have to go and get your own slate!"

1:26:42 > 1:26:44It is trendy, isn't it?

1:26:44 > 1:26:46The thing about this is it does look nice

1:26:46 > 1:26:51and then the idea is we just pile some salt on top of each one.

1:26:51 > 1:26:55So a little seat for the scallop shell. Tony Hart, look at that.

1:26:55 > 1:27:00Is that what you call it? A little seat. Lovely. Over the top of there.

1:27:00 > 1:27:04But like I said, it is a great dinner party dish.

1:27:04 > 1:27:06The thing about this is you can make this in advance.

1:27:06 > 1:27:10Pop it in the fridge, finish it with the sauce ideally, and then pop

1:27:10 > 1:27:13it under the grill, but it just wants to go under

1:27:13 > 1:27:16a really hot grill. How long have we got? About ten seconds.

1:27:16 > 1:27:18OK, so this is coming out now.

1:27:18 > 1:27:22But actually, this is a true luxury to have lobster and scallops.

1:27:22 > 1:27:27If you sell this in a restaurant you would be charging...40 quid.

1:27:27 > 1:27:32Or something like that. 40 quid?! Are you being serious? Crikey!

1:27:32 > 1:27:36I am not coming to your restaurant! You mean just in your restaurant?

1:27:36 > 1:27:39No, it's just the cost of the ingredients.

1:27:39 > 1:27:42The whole lobster and the scallops... Gloria, there you go.

1:27:42 > 1:27:44Knives and forks there.

1:27:44 > 1:27:46May I thank you guys and the viewers for my heaven?

1:27:46 > 1:27:48Dive into that and tell us what do you think.

1:27:48 > 1:27:51Bring the glasses over, girls. Spoilt for choice here.

1:27:51 > 1:27:55Tell us what you think of that. What do you think of that?

1:27:55 > 1:27:57It is heaven, simple as that.

1:27:57 > 1:27:59The secret of that is the lightness of the sauce.

1:27:59 > 1:28:02I don't think you are going to get any of this, girls. Have a glass of wine.

1:28:02 > 1:28:05I thought it was the way the scallops were cooked, myself.

1:28:05 > 1:28:06It is the way the scallops are cooked.

1:28:06 > 1:28:09But the combination of the lobster and the scallops...

1:28:14 > 1:28:16Well, that is it for today's Best Bites.

1:28:16 > 1:28:19If you would like to have a go at any of the fantastic recipes

1:28:19 > 1:28:21you have seen on today's programme,

1:28:21 > 1:28:22you can find them all on our website.

1:28:22 > 1:28:24Just go to bbc.co.uk/recipes.

1:28:24 > 1:28:27There are loads of great cooking ideas for you to choose from,

1:28:27 > 1:28:29so have a fantastic week and happy cooking.

1:28:29 > 1:28:32I will see you again soon. Bye for now.

1:28:32 > 1:28:33Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd