Episode 96

0:00:00 > 0:00:03Good morning. Get ready for a feast of tasty cooking.

0:00:03 > 0:00:05This is Saturday Kitchen Best Bites.

0:00:25 > 0:00:28Welcome to the show. We've got some great chefs lining up

0:00:28 > 0:00:31to cook for some very hungry celebrity guests today.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34Theo Randall serves his take on liver and bacon.

0:00:34 > 0:00:36He pan-fries calves' liver with pancetta and sage

0:00:36 > 0:00:41and serves it with Swiss chard, chilli, lentils and a balsamic sauce.

0:00:41 > 0:00:45Chris Galvin presents a seafood masterpiece with some red mullet.

0:00:45 > 0:00:47He grills it and serves it with garlic squid,

0:00:47 > 0:00:52pasta, flat leaf parsley and olive and caper salad.

0:00:52 > 0:00:56The always perfect Marcus Wareing shows his unique way with lamb.

0:00:56 > 0:01:00He slow cooks milk-fed lamb, serves it with seared baby little gem lettuce,

0:01:00 > 0:01:03borlotti beans, courgettes and a ewes' milk cheese.

0:01:03 > 0:01:07And EastEnder Patsy Palmer takes time away from Albert Square

0:01:07 > 0:01:09to face Food Heaven or Food Hell.

0:01:09 > 0:01:13Will she get food heaven - strawberries in my decadent strawberry mille feuilles

0:01:13 > 0:01:14with strawberry sauce?

0:01:14 > 0:01:17Or will she get her dreaded food hell, smoked salmon?

0:01:17 > 0:01:20A delicious smoked salmon and spinach puff pastry tart

0:01:20 > 0:01:23with watercress pesto and a watercress and walnut salad.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26Find out what she gets to eat at the end of the show.

0:01:26 > 0:01:30But first, the pride of Wales, Bryn Williams, brings sea trout to the table

0:01:30 > 0:01:33and Dermot O'Leary gets to practise his knife skills.

0:01:33 > 0:01:36You're the master at this craft. Tell us what we're cooking.

0:01:36 > 0:01:39Today we're doing pan-fried sea trout.

0:01:39 > 0:01:42A bit of bacon in there for saltiness.

0:01:42 > 0:01:45Fresh peas, carrots, gem lettuce and a bit of horseradish.

0:01:45 > 0:01:48Horseradish. Right. We'll get onto that a bit later.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51We've got here some sea trout. Tell us about that first.

0:01:51 > 0:01:53Sea trout is a rainbow trout

0:01:53 > 0:01:56until the fish decides to go to sea.

0:01:56 > 0:02:01So it's the same fish and this is why sea trout is always bigger than a rainbow trout

0:02:01 > 0:02:03which is smaller cos it stays in the river.

0:02:03 > 0:02:07Obviously the sea trout gets caught when it goes back up-river to lay eggs.

0:02:07 > 0:02:09Price-wise, it is more expensive.

0:02:09 > 0:02:12It is more expensive, but I don't think there's a price on quality.

0:02:12 > 0:02:16- But saying that, it's half the price of wild salmon.- Yeah.

0:02:16 > 0:02:21So I think it's as good as wild salmon

0:02:21 > 0:02:24cos there's a lot more flavour and more character to sea trout.

0:02:24 > 0:02:27Do you use much in the restaurant?

0:02:27 > 0:02:29Yes, it's on the menu just now.

0:02:29 > 0:02:33- Fantastic.- We'll just lightly season. We'll get you chopping there.

0:02:33 > 0:02:37Maybe we'll get Dermot up. How are your knife skills?

0:02:37 > 0:02:40I'm terrible! Fantastic. Thank you.

0:02:41 > 0:02:44Show me, coach.

0:02:44 > 0:02:45What we're doing is that.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49This brings back memories for me.

0:02:49 > 0:02:53The Guinness Book of Records, I'm in. The world's fastest carrot peeler and chopper!

0:02:53 > 0:02:57- Are you?- The sea trout goes in. A bit of salt.- I get plenty of practice on this show!

0:02:57 > 0:03:01- Small batons.- These are batons? - Don't cut your fingers off!

0:03:01 > 0:03:03These are sharp, aren't they?

0:03:03 > 0:03:05I haven't got these at home!

0:03:05 > 0:03:07I'm scared!

0:03:08 > 0:03:10This might take some time!

0:03:10 > 0:03:14- We've only got six minutes, Dermot. - OK. Don't worry.

0:03:14 > 0:03:16That includes cooking them.

0:03:16 > 0:03:20I'm going to do the batons of the bacon as well.

0:03:20 > 0:03:23I'll blanch them in a little salted water.

0:03:23 > 0:03:28That takes out the salt and firms up the bacon. So we cook it.

0:03:28 > 0:03:30You're podding the peas, as well.

0:03:30 > 0:03:32You can ask him the questions as well!

0:03:32 > 0:03:34Front of house!

0:03:34 > 0:03:36- So cut the bacon...- You blanch this, as well.

0:03:36 > 0:03:39It just takes out the saltiness.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42- Are you not good with knives?- No, that's so sharp, that knife.

0:03:42 > 0:03:46- I used to do this for a living. - Don't chop your fingers off.

0:03:46 > 0:03:54- Pod peas?- Yeah, there's a lot of pick and mixes and bean farms and pea farms down my way.

0:03:54 > 0:03:56- Right.- It was good summer work for me.

0:03:56 > 0:04:00- Can I have a couple of these?- Yeah. - I love raw peas.- They're great.

0:04:02 > 0:04:05They are fantastic. So the fish, you cut all the way through to the skin?

0:04:05 > 0:04:07Yes, three-quarters, all the way through to the skin.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10Just turn it over at the last minute.

0:04:10 > 0:04:12We've blanched the bacon into salted water

0:04:12 > 0:04:14for no more than 30 seconds to a minute.

0:04:14 > 0:04:17What it does, it just brings the bacon...

0:04:17 > 0:04:19It just firms it up a little bit.

0:04:19 > 0:04:23The last time you were here, you were doing some building work at Odette's.

0:04:23 > 0:04:25- Yeah.- Finished now?- It's all done.

0:04:25 > 0:04:27The bar's been done. We've got a nice garden outside now.

0:04:27 > 0:04:32We're very lucky to have a garden in central London.

0:04:32 > 0:04:33Holds about 30 people, which is great.

0:04:33 > 0:04:35There's one downfall.

0:04:35 > 0:04:40Everybody books for the garden, but when it rains, we don't have enough seats for them in the restaurant.

0:04:40 > 0:04:44So it can be tricky when we let people book tables for the garden!

0:04:46 > 0:04:48- Just going to season... - That's a lovely smell.

0:04:48 > 0:04:51A little bit of salt, a little pepper.

0:04:51 > 0:04:53Just going to blanch the peas.

0:04:53 > 0:04:57- I hope you're not going to work in your own restaurant! - What are you talking about?

0:04:58 > 0:04:59This is nice happy food.

0:04:59 > 0:05:02I'm going to blanch the carrots for about 30 seconds.

0:05:02 > 0:05:04- Then we'll add the peas.- Yep.

0:05:04 > 0:05:10- You'll blanch them at the same time? - Add the carrots first, cos they need bit more cooking time.

0:05:10 > 0:05:12This is nice, isn't it? Real men working!

0:05:14 > 0:05:18- Band of brothers!- You also take part in the Taste Festival?

0:05:18 > 0:05:20Taste of London. Yeah, that was amazing.

0:05:20 > 0:05:25- We had 48,000 people through the gates.- It's a lot of work for you guys, isn't it?

0:05:25 > 0:05:27That's enough. Yeah, it is a lot of work.

0:05:27 > 0:05:30We sold 6,500 plates of food over four days.

0:05:30 > 0:05:33So it's a lot of work. A lot of organisation.

0:05:33 > 0:05:36A lot of work, but it's good fun at the same time.

0:05:36 > 0:05:38A lot of people see what we do as chefs.

0:05:38 > 0:05:43Sometimes they're afraid to come into the restaurant if they see sea trout and bacon. They may not like it.

0:05:43 > 0:05:45So when it comes to taste, we have smaller portions

0:05:45 > 0:05:48and if they don't like it, they haven't wasted that much money.

0:05:48 > 0:05:50- It's like a little tapas bar. - It's great.

0:05:50 > 0:05:53Yeah, literally two or three mouthfuls, that's it.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56- Yes.- So we've just blanched the peas there.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58With the carrots.

0:05:59 > 0:06:03See the way he's cooking the fish. Cooking it all the way through on the skin side?

0:06:03 > 0:06:05The only thing about that is,

0:06:05 > 0:06:08how do you know, when it starts to...

0:06:08 > 0:06:10It starts to cook? It's changing colour at the sides.

0:06:10 > 0:06:13- I think it just comes from experience.- Sure.

0:06:13 > 0:06:15I try and barbecue a lot of fish.

0:06:15 > 0:06:19- Obviously I catch...- Great on barbecues.- ..catch my mackerel.

0:06:19 > 0:06:23- Mackerel's pretty easy to do cos it does...- Definitely. - Cooks in its own oil.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26- Yeah.- I want to do more on the barbecue. What other fish should I do?

0:06:26 > 0:06:31You can barbecue fish on the barbecue and just put a bit of tin foil down.

0:06:31 > 0:06:33- Definitely.- To hold it together.

0:06:33 > 0:06:35You've still got that smokiness of flavour.

0:06:35 > 0:06:37- You still get it seared.- Holds it all together.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39I love that flavour.

0:06:39 > 0:06:40The burnt bits on the side.

0:06:40 > 0:06:44So I've just got a bit of chicken stock and a bit of butter.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46We'll add a bit more as we're cooking along.

0:06:46 > 0:06:48That'll help to thicken the sauce.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51- This lettuce, do you want it like chiffonade?- Yeah.

0:06:51 > 0:06:53You can do that. Chiffonade the lettuce.

0:06:53 > 0:06:55I know it's "chiffin hard"!

0:06:55 > 0:06:57There you go.

0:06:57 > 0:07:00OK. So how does one chiffonade?

0:07:02 > 0:07:05- Fingers out the way.- Are you sure opening a restaurant is a good idea?

0:07:05 > 0:07:07Don't do that. What you do is that.

0:07:07 > 0:07:11- So you'll take your knuckles off. - Like when you meet a dog.- Yeah.

0:07:11 > 0:07:12Just do that.

0:07:15 > 0:07:16All right, Kung Fu Panda!

0:07:16 > 0:07:19Just keep your fingers out the way.

0:07:25 > 0:07:27APPLAUSE

0:07:27 > 0:07:30- Perfect!- It's more minced meat salad, as opposed to chiffonade!

0:07:30 > 0:07:34Is that OK, Bryn? It's all right. Just slower next time.

0:07:34 > 0:07:37OK. I got a lettuce once... Are you throwing that away?!

0:07:37 > 0:07:40- I'm keeping it for the compost. - It wasn't bad!- Keeping it for the compost.

0:07:40 > 0:07:45- Literally just turn the trout. - I'm mortified about that!

0:07:46 > 0:07:48- That'll take another 30 seconds. - Trout's turned over.

0:07:48 > 0:07:51We've turned the heat off cos there's enough heat in that dish.

0:07:51 > 0:07:53Add the gem lettuce.

0:07:53 > 0:07:56And now turn the heat off on this so it keeps a bit of texture.

0:07:56 > 0:07:58You don't want the lettuce soft.

0:07:58 > 0:08:00Why are you putting the lettuce in the pan?

0:08:00 > 0:08:04You get the water out of the lettuce, but still keep the texture.

0:08:04 > 0:08:07This dish is all about texture. Soft peas, sweet peas, salty bacon.

0:08:07 > 0:08:09Cooks cook a lot with lettuce.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12There's a great dish with lettuce and peas called sauce verte

0:08:12 > 0:08:13which we're making.

0:08:13 > 0:08:16But you're about to ruin this by putting this in it!

0:08:16 > 0:08:19- I'll cook you one separately cos you don't like horseradish. - I can't stand it.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23People ask me what would be my idea of food heaven and food hell on the show.

0:08:23 > 0:08:25That would be hell!

0:08:25 > 0:08:30I think we should swap over. I'll interview you one day.

0:08:30 > 0:08:33You need to get over your horseradish fetish.

0:08:33 > 0:08:35It's a really great thing.

0:08:35 > 0:08:37- To finish off...- It's not. - It's amazing.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39A little bit of horseradish in there.

0:08:41 > 0:08:42Yeah, you've just ruined that!

0:08:45 > 0:08:47Just a bit more stock, give it a bit more sauce.

0:08:47 > 0:08:50People put Yorkshire pudding and then put horseradish in it!

0:08:50 > 0:08:53- It's a classic Northern thing. - You've just ruined it.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55No. There you go.

0:08:55 > 0:08:57In with the peas.

0:08:57 > 0:09:01You want to get all that liquid in there. Very important to get all the juice in there.

0:09:01 > 0:09:03- Nice fresh flavours. - And now with the...

0:09:03 > 0:09:06This will be on his menu tonight.

0:09:06 > 0:09:11- Go down to Brighton and see...how far your sea trout...- I'm banking all this in my head.

0:09:11 > 0:09:14- That's that one cooked.- Notice I get the dodgy one!- I know!- Thank you very much.

0:09:14 > 0:09:18- Remind us what that is again. - This is pan fried salmon - sea trout, sorry.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21- With peas, bacon and horseradish. - Easy as that.

0:09:27 > 0:09:30Right. Over to the table. I'm sure everyone wants to dive into this.

0:09:30 > 0:09:32You get to dive into this one.

0:09:32 > 0:09:34I've got my own. This is a first!

0:09:34 > 0:09:36A very big first.

0:09:36 > 0:09:38Dive into that. Tell us what you think.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40Blanching the bacon is quite important.

0:09:40 > 0:09:43Yes, it takes that raw saltiness out of there.

0:09:43 > 0:09:48It's combinations like Tom had. The saltiness against the sweetness of the peas.

0:09:48 > 0:09:52Very important. And not overcooking the trout.

0:09:52 > 0:09:56It can go very dry. It's an oily fish and you lose all its moisture.

0:09:56 > 0:09:58Much better without the horseradish!

0:09:58 > 0:10:01It's natural cos sea trout is in season at this time of year.

0:10:01 > 0:10:04So are peas, so they naturally go well together.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06That's what seasonal cooking is all about.

0:10:06 > 0:10:09It tastes like it's doing you good!

0:10:09 > 0:10:11And it's done, as well. Six, seven minutes.

0:10:11 > 0:10:13It's so hearty.

0:10:13 > 0:10:17- It's broth, as well.- A broth dish, it's like you said,

0:10:17 > 0:10:20it's literally from the ground straight onto the plate.

0:10:27 > 0:10:30I'd definitely stick to shelling peas, Dermot!

0:10:30 > 0:10:34Coming up, I'll be roasting duck breast with smoked aubergines for actor Brian Cox.

0:10:34 > 0:10:38But first, we join Rick Stein as he starts his very first French Odyssey.

0:10:39 > 0:10:40Come on, Chalky!

0:10:40 > 0:10:43I want to show you where we're going.

0:10:43 > 0:10:45I'm sorry you're not coming, but look, Chalky.

0:10:45 > 0:10:48There is the coast of France, not a very good one.

0:10:48 > 0:10:51There's England. There's Cornwall. We're down here.

0:10:51 > 0:10:54Right? We're going down from Brittany, which sticks out here

0:10:54 > 0:10:56down to...

0:10:56 > 0:11:00OK, I know you're depressed, but it's not my fault!

0:11:00 > 0:11:03The vet said you couldn't be chipped. You're too old.

0:11:03 > 0:11:05AS ECHO: Too old! Too old! Too old!

0:11:05 > 0:11:08There was a time when he wasn't too old.

0:11:08 > 0:11:11But time, for a small dog, takes its toll.

0:11:11 > 0:11:15He's been on the road with me for the past ten years.

0:11:15 > 0:11:18Wherever I go, and I mean wherever I go,

0:11:18 > 0:11:21they always say, "Where's Chalky?

0:11:21 > 0:11:23"He's more famous than you!"

0:11:24 > 0:11:25How true!

0:11:27 > 0:11:30I think about that exceedingly good poem by Kipling which ends with,

0:11:30 > 0:11:33"Brothers and sisters, I bid you beware

0:11:33 > 0:11:36"Of giving your heart to a dog to tear."

0:11:39 > 0:11:42Call me old-fashioned. Call me what you like,

0:11:42 > 0:11:46but this great barge adventure starts with a trip on the ferry.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49I could have taken a plane straight to Bordeaux,

0:11:49 > 0:11:53but then I'd have missed out on all that lovely seafood on the way down!

0:11:56 > 0:12:01I've been all over the world and I'm quite familiar with cuisines from all over the world.

0:12:01 > 0:12:05but really, the one that has always been my favourite is French

0:12:05 > 0:12:11because my restaurant in Padstow was involved through trips to Brittany

0:12:11 > 0:12:12over many years.

0:12:12 > 0:12:15The whole concept of seafood to me

0:12:15 > 0:12:17is the French concept of seafood.

0:12:17 > 0:12:21But latterly also from trips to the south-west of France.

0:12:21 > 0:12:26The sausages and the cassoulets and the bouillabaisse and the fish soup

0:12:26 > 0:12:29and those oyster bars,

0:12:29 > 0:12:30and all that sort of stuff.

0:12:30 > 0:12:34That, to me, is the centre of my life in food.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37To get a prawn in England,

0:12:37 > 0:12:39you just don't see it.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41But there, mounds of 'em!

0:12:41 > 0:12:44Mounds of 'em! Love it. Just love the whole thing.

0:12:44 > 0:12:46Do you like French food?

0:12:46 > 0:12:48Not particularly, no!

0:12:48 > 0:12:51But I like a nice big prawn.

0:12:51 > 0:12:53What about the markets in France?

0:12:54 > 0:12:57They say I walk round like an aged pop star.

0:12:57 > 0:13:01There's me walking round the market and they're carrying all the carrier bags! It's beautiful.

0:13:01 > 0:13:03- There's nothing like it in the UK. - Why not?

0:13:03 > 0:13:07I don't know. I don't think we've got a taste for fish

0:13:07 > 0:13:09and we can't make the effort, we can't be bothered.

0:13:09 > 0:13:11It's one-stop shopping in the UK,

0:13:11 > 0:13:13whereas in France it's very different.

0:13:13 > 0:13:15It's their way of life.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18We're so near, yet we're so different.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20That's so true.

0:13:20 > 0:13:23One thing the French have taken for their own is self-service.

0:13:23 > 0:13:27I don't know why, but they love it, and they do it so well!

0:13:27 > 0:13:31Instead of the perfectly nice posh restaurant on board,

0:13:31 > 0:13:35I always make a bee-line here, because the litmus test

0:13:35 > 0:13:37is to order a rare steak frites.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40To me, it says, "Welcome to France."

0:13:40 > 0:13:47It's so simple, and yet travelling around the UK, so frustratingly difficult to find!

0:13:47 > 0:13:50Look at that. That is a proper blue steak.

0:13:50 > 0:13:52I hate to say this - this is just a ferry -

0:13:52 > 0:13:55but I had a feeling it was going to be all right,

0:13:55 > 0:13:57in other words cooked properly.

0:13:57 > 0:13:59A bit of Bordelaise sauce on top,

0:13:59 > 0:14:02and actually, the wine's not too bad, either!

0:14:02 > 0:14:05It's a bit rough, but it all sort of fits.

0:14:05 > 0:14:08I'm in France before I've even got there!

0:14:09 > 0:14:11Someone a couple of hundred years ago

0:14:11 > 0:14:15said that the best thing he knew between France and England was the sea!

0:14:15 > 0:14:20But I think there's something else that separates the two nations.

0:14:20 > 0:14:21And that's the artichoke!

0:14:21 > 0:14:25It's feared, and I suspect, loathed by the Brits,

0:14:25 > 0:14:29judging by the fact I've never seen a field of artichokes growing at home,

0:14:29 > 0:14:32but here they're everywhere!

0:14:32 > 0:14:35I think the way I like best with artichokes

0:14:35 > 0:14:39is just to cook them whole in boiling water with salt and lemon juice.

0:14:39 > 0:14:41That stops them going black.

0:14:41 > 0:14:45But I have to say round here there's a very good salad dish

0:14:45 > 0:14:48that you use the artichoke heart with.

0:14:48 > 0:14:52'Artichokes look so daunting. They're hard and spiky like an armadillo!

0:14:52 > 0:14:55But it's just a big flower bud.

0:14:55 > 0:15:00All you want for this dish is the soft heart from the centre.

0:15:00 > 0:15:03Put them straight in a dish of lemon water

0:15:03 > 0:15:04to stop them discolouring,

0:15:04 > 0:15:06and then simmer for about 20 minutes.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12Now, take some thick slices of smoked bacon,

0:15:12 > 0:15:16and cut them into small chunks. We call them lardons.

0:15:16 > 0:15:18And do the same with some fresh, crusty bread.

0:15:22 > 0:15:25Take the artichoke hearts out, and leave them aside to cool.

0:15:25 > 0:15:27Then hard fry the lardons.

0:15:27 > 0:15:32It's much better if you can use traditional dry cured bacon.

0:15:32 > 0:15:34It fries much drier.

0:15:34 > 0:15:37And now the bread.

0:15:37 > 0:15:39Fry until they're golden and crunchy

0:15:39 > 0:15:41like little jewels!

0:15:41 > 0:15:44Remove them from the pan and keep warm.

0:15:46 > 0:15:48Now for the dressing.

0:15:48 > 0:15:52In the same frying pan, put a couple of tablespoons of wine vinegar

0:15:52 > 0:15:54and two teaspoons of Dijon mustard.

0:15:54 > 0:15:57Give it a swirl, and add some vegetable oil.

0:15:57 > 0:16:01Sunflower oil is fine. Season it with salt and pepper.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03Poach a couple of good farm eggs.

0:16:03 > 0:16:05Hard to do, I think.

0:16:05 > 0:16:09A little tremble in the water so they set really well.

0:16:09 > 0:16:11Now assemble a dish.

0:16:11 > 0:16:13First, some soft, green salad leaves.

0:16:13 > 0:16:18Slice the artichoke into about four or five thick slices.

0:16:18 > 0:16:22Lift up and place on top of those salad leaves.

0:16:22 > 0:16:25The more common way of eating an artichoke

0:16:25 > 0:16:28is to eat it leaf by leaf, dipped in melted butter.

0:16:28 > 0:16:35There's a saying in Brittany that with artichokes, you have more on your plate than when you started!

0:16:35 > 0:16:41But this salad is one of the finest summer lunches you could hope to find anywhere,

0:16:41 > 0:16:43and you'll find it, as I did,

0:16:43 > 0:16:44in Brittany.

0:16:44 > 0:16:48Brittany, with its great sea food.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51It gave me loads of ideas for my restaurant in Cornwall.

0:16:51 > 0:16:54I felt a bit like a pirate in those early days,

0:16:54 > 0:16:56borrowing - I think that's the right word! -

0:16:56 > 0:16:59recipes for spider crab and red mullet.

0:16:59 > 0:17:02Maybe adapting the odd dressing for oysters,

0:17:02 > 0:17:07and learning all those years ago that cider is a great friend of sea food!

0:17:07 > 0:17:12I didn't go to Michelin-star restaurants, but little family-run businesses,

0:17:12 > 0:17:16where the very thought of a menu was an anathema,

0:17:16 > 0:17:19and, of course, the famous French transport cafes.

0:17:20 > 0:17:25I have to say it's very nice that the French truck-stop Routier

0:17:25 > 0:17:27is still thriving, going strong.

0:17:27 > 0:17:29It's utterly packed. There's that many trucks out there.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32Very nice little hors d'oeuvre to start with.

0:17:32 > 0:17:35Afterwards we have some epaule d'agneau, shoulder of lamb,

0:17:35 > 0:17:37with pommes frites, haricots verts.

0:17:37 > 0:17:43Or a local speciality, eels done in cider with local Breton cider.

0:17:43 > 0:17:46Unbelievably, there were just two people cooking.

0:17:46 > 0:17:48The local favourite here is eels in cider.

0:17:48 > 0:17:53The chef was quite unperturbed by the camera, and told me how he did it.

0:17:53 > 0:17:56SPEAKS FRENCH

0:18:00 > 0:18:03He says after he's put the cider in, he's got to reduce it right down.

0:18:03 > 0:18:07"Reduire" is the word, so that it concentrates the flavour.

0:18:07 > 0:18:12Makes a nice sauce. Then he'll put creme fraiche in there and take that down a bit.

0:18:12 > 0:18:17I'm really going to like this. Just up my street, this sort of food!

0:18:18 > 0:18:20Yum-yum!

0:18:22 > 0:18:24CHEF SPEAKS FRENCH

0:18:33 > 0:18:38I've just asked him how important it is that it's the food of the region,

0:18:38 > 0:18:43and he said it's a pleasure to him to continue to cook traditional dishes

0:18:43 > 0:18:47and would that we all had traditional dishes like this that we had to cook!

0:18:47 > 0:18:51It's really quite sophisticated, that whole taste.

0:18:51 > 0:18:56I was having to pinch myself to remember we're in a transport cafe, for God's sake!

0:18:57 > 0:19:03Can we see our lorry drivers back in Blighty getting stuck into cold haricots verts and pate?

0:19:03 > 0:19:05I can't really see it!

0:19:05 > 0:19:09But I can't leave Brittany without trying a crepe or a galette.

0:19:09 > 0:19:13They're so popular here, they've become a gastronomic symbol

0:19:13 > 0:19:15and this is the classic Breton pancake

0:19:15 > 0:19:19with an egg and a batter made of buckwheat flour.

0:19:20 > 0:19:23Galettes mean a lot to me. I remember as a teenager first going to Brittany

0:19:23 > 0:19:27and finding all these little shacks, almost, that did galettes.

0:19:27 > 0:19:33And I've got a real weakness for what I call street food, and that's what galettes are.

0:19:33 > 0:19:38You get so many different flavours. Ham, eggs, seafood of course,

0:19:38 > 0:19:40But apple and lots of sweet things.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42When you get south of Brittany,

0:19:42 > 0:19:48they start to peter out and you find brioches, filled brioches, with the same sort of fillings.

0:19:48 > 0:19:52More fillings in both cases than pizza toppings.

0:19:52 > 0:19:54But the thing I particularly like about this

0:19:54 > 0:19:57is the first one I ever had, in Concarneau.

0:19:57 > 0:20:01It was just really simple, just ham, egg and cheese.

0:20:02 > 0:20:05The words crepe and galette are pretty much the same thing, really.

0:20:05 > 0:20:12Now, buckwheat flour. This comes from a plant very similar to a dock leaf

0:20:12 > 0:20:16and there's loads of reddy-brown seeds that are crushed to make the flour.

0:20:16 > 0:20:19It makes a very satisfying base for this dish.

0:20:19 > 0:20:23I'm assuming you don't have those fancy little crepe hotplates at home

0:20:23 > 0:20:26and you'd want to use a more obvious method of cooking like a frying pan.

0:20:26 > 0:20:29So in go the egg, the ham and the cheese

0:20:29 > 0:20:34and then all that's left to do is to make a parcel and fold the edges in.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37I like to flip the crepe over to seal it.

0:20:37 > 0:20:41I can hear old ladies in Brittany now saying, "Sacre Bleu! Did you see that?

0:20:41 > 0:20:43"He turned it over!"

0:20:46 > 0:20:49In the Vendee, I stop at the little town of Clisson,

0:20:49 > 0:20:51a good place for freshwater fish.

0:20:51 > 0:20:55It was razed to the ground and its inhabitants put to the sword

0:20:55 > 0:20:59by the good folks that gave France liberty, equality and fraternity.

0:20:59 > 0:21:03Apparently, the locals down here were too slow to change.

0:21:03 > 0:21:06They were fond of the king and they liked their local priests.

0:21:06 > 0:21:11The chateau that once stood in this vineyard was burned down at the same time,

0:21:11 > 0:21:12just after the revolution.

0:21:12 > 0:21:16But it was rebuilt and now it's owned by Monsieur Sauvignon.

0:21:16 > 0:21:19I've been buying his Muscadet for ages.

0:21:19 > 0:21:23It's like I know him, although we've never met until this very day.

0:21:26 > 0:21:28Hello, Ricky!

0:21:28 > 0:21:30We were waiting for you desperately!

0:21:30 > 0:21:33- Oh, really?- How are you? Good to see you!

0:21:33 > 0:21:36This is Renee. Is it the first time you meet?

0:21:36 > 0:21:39- It is.- I guess you're tired, so...

0:21:40 > 0:21:43We all know that Muscadet is a dry white wine

0:21:43 > 0:21:45particularly good with seafood.

0:21:45 > 0:21:49But Jean Erneste is very proud of what he calls his "trembling wine"

0:21:49 > 0:21:51which is a creme en de Loire

0:21:51 > 0:21:53made with Chenin blanc and Chardonnay.

0:21:53 > 0:21:57For ladies, they insist on serving it with rose petals in it.

0:21:57 > 0:21:59I don't know why, they just do!

0:21:59 > 0:22:03It's clear to me that with all your family involved in it,

0:22:03 > 0:22:05you and Pierre and everybody,

0:22:05 > 0:22:10that it really means a lot. What is so special about wine making,

0:22:10 > 0:22:12particularly in this part of the country?

0:22:12 > 0:22:17We don't introduce ourself like wine-maker, wine-grower, wine-shipper.

0:22:17 > 0:22:20We introduce ourselves, as you may have seen on our business card,

0:22:20 > 0:22:22as a faconeur de plaisir.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25It means builder of pleasure.

0:22:25 > 0:22:27Because wine is only pleasure.

0:22:27 > 0:22:29That's why it's fascinating.

0:22:29 > 0:22:32Because you sell pleasure. You produce pleasure. You drink pleasure.

0:22:32 > 0:22:37It's only pleasure. And the seasons are changing all the time.

0:22:37 > 0:22:39Every year, the vintages are different.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41So it's a fascinating enjoyment.

0:22:41 > 0:22:44It's not a business, it's an enjoyment.

0:22:44 > 0:22:48They invited me to stay at the chateau for dinner with the family.

0:22:48 > 0:22:51It was quite a posh affair, with wonderful seafood.

0:22:51 > 0:22:56The heart of which was sea bass cooked to perfection by Angelie,

0:22:56 > 0:22:58a girl from the village.

0:22:58 > 0:23:02They had wanted to serve zander from the river at Clisson,

0:23:02 > 0:23:03but they couldn't get any.

0:23:03 > 0:23:06But she poached the fillets of bass in a court bouillon

0:23:06 > 0:23:09and served them with a beurre blanc sauce.

0:23:09 > 0:23:13That's basically shallots, white wine vinegar and butter

0:23:13 > 0:23:15whisked together over a low heat.

0:23:15 > 0:23:19The new potatoes came from a little island off the coast

0:23:19 > 0:23:21called Noir Boutiers.

0:23:21 > 0:23:25Angelie can have a job in my restaurant any time!

0:23:25 > 0:23:28Do you know, they really wanted me to have a taste of the Vendee.

0:23:28 > 0:23:32Not over-complicated fancified dishes,

0:23:32 > 0:23:35but simple seafood to complement their great wine.

0:23:35 > 0:23:37And it really worked!

0:23:38 > 0:23:41It's lovely. It's the sort of thing I love. It's very simple

0:23:41 > 0:23:47and about the area. And this wine is just absolutely special.

0:23:47 > 0:23:49So here's to you! Cheers!

0:23:49 > 0:23:52- Cheers!- Thank you! Thank you, Ricky!

0:23:59 > 0:24:03I love French food, too. I've had some of the best food in my life in restaurants and cafes there.

0:24:03 > 0:24:05Over the summer, I've been there for a few weeks

0:24:05 > 0:24:09travelling around the south of France and I've come across many great ingredients

0:24:09 > 0:24:13one in particular, magret duck. They use a lot of duck in the Ajain region where I was.

0:24:13 > 0:24:18This, in particular, is going to be cooked very simply, that's the thing with this.

0:24:18 > 0:24:21Just on the skin side with some aubergine.

0:24:21 > 0:24:24I'm going to smoke the aubergine into a puree with wilted spinach.

0:24:24 > 0:24:26Very, very simple.

0:24:26 > 0:24:28A flavour you may have never had before, smoked aubergine.

0:24:28 > 0:24:32I love aubergine. It's one of the best vegetables there is.

0:24:32 > 0:24:34- It's so flexible.- It is great.

0:24:34 > 0:24:37But with the duck, all you do is place it in the pan like that.

0:24:37 > 0:24:40Skin side down, and just gently cook it skin side.

0:24:40 > 0:24:44It renders the fat. You get all this fat coming out of it,

0:24:44 > 0:24:46then we turn it over and cook it in the oven for eight minutes.

0:24:46 > 0:24:49While that's cooking, we can get our aubergine on.

0:24:49 > 0:24:51It's pretty straightforward.

0:24:51 > 0:24:56They're coming into greenhouses. Mine are just coming through in my veg garden.

0:24:56 > 0:25:00We just literally cut them like that.

0:25:00 > 0:25:02No need to salt them any more.

0:25:02 > 0:25:04And soak them in milk and stuff.

0:25:04 > 0:25:05Just place those in there.

0:25:05 > 0:25:07A little bit of olive oil.

0:25:07 > 0:25:11My garden has plenty of hybrid ones

0:25:11 > 0:25:13so you don't need to salt them any more.

0:25:13 > 0:25:15So they're ready-salted, like crisps?

0:25:15 > 0:25:20What's that about?! How do you produce a hybrid ready-salted aubergine?!

0:25:20 > 0:25:23The modern aubergine isn't full of water any more!

0:25:23 > 0:25:27- It's salted.- But by the very nature, that's what an aubergine should do!

0:25:27 > 0:25:30ALL SPEAK AT ONCE

0:25:30 > 0:25:32Can we just put it right? I work for those two!

0:25:32 > 0:25:36Exactly. I've got them here. I'm going to just gently smoke them.

0:25:36 > 0:25:39Nice hot pan. Tin foil in the bottom.

0:25:39 > 0:25:40This is before you roast them?

0:25:40 > 0:25:42These roast in the oven for about 20 minutes.

0:25:42 > 0:25:46- And then you get these oak chippings. You can buy these... - What are they?

0:25:46 > 0:25:48- Oak chippings.- Oak?!- Oak.

0:25:48 > 0:25:50- You mean like the tree, oak?- Yeah.

0:25:50 > 0:25:52That's the one, Brian!

0:25:52 > 0:25:55It's not going to light a cigarette or anything!

0:25:56 > 0:25:59They go in there, lid on.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01And we smoke these for two or three minutes.

0:26:01 > 0:26:03And the smoke will just keep it on a high heat.

0:26:03 > 0:26:08Lid on. Don't do this near your net curtains, or it'll create one big mess!

0:26:08 > 0:26:10Turn your duck over.

0:26:10 > 0:26:13- The last thing you want is dirty nets!- Exactly!

0:26:13 > 0:26:16- What would your neighbours think if you had dirty nets?- Eight minutes.

0:26:16 > 0:26:20The thing that fascinates me about you, Brian, is you always wanted to be an actor,

0:26:20 > 0:26:23which many people do, but it was the process of getting to where you are now.

0:26:23 > 0:26:28Mopping the floors at age 15, dreaming about film and television?

0:26:28 > 0:26:31Yes, I used to go to the movies when I was a kid.

0:26:31 > 0:26:35And then I eventually I had no way of knowing how I'd get into it,

0:26:35 > 0:26:37but through a series of happenstances

0:26:37 > 0:26:40I ended up working in my local theatre when I was 15.

0:26:40 > 0:26:43Mopping the stage, and taking the money to the bank.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46From there, I went to drama school and then started working in the theatre.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49But I always loved the movies. That was my passion.

0:26:49 > 0:26:52But I think that was always going to happen anyway.

0:26:52 > 0:26:56But it was the theatre that got you spotted for movies?

0:26:56 > 0:27:01The theatre is what we do best here probably.

0:27:01 > 0:27:03There's an argument for that.

0:27:03 > 0:27:07But it's our cultural heritage more than cinema is.

0:27:07 > 0:27:10America's much more to do with movies than the UK is.

0:27:10 > 0:27:13I know that's a heresy and people argue with it, but it's a fact.

0:27:13 > 0:27:17You got spotted when you were in the theatre for the movie Manhunter?

0:27:17 > 0:27:19Yeah, I was actually on Broadway.

0:27:19 > 0:27:23No, it wasn't Broadway, it was a public theatre in New York.

0:27:23 > 0:27:28And the casting director came to see it and she couldn't see me

0:27:28 > 0:27:30because she was in a bad seat.

0:27:30 > 0:27:33When I went for the interview, she said, "Can you turn your back to the camera?"

0:27:33 > 0:27:36I said, "Why?" She said, "I couldn't see you, but I could hear your voice."

0:27:36 > 0:27:39- And that was it?- That was it. That's how I got the job!

0:27:39 > 0:27:43Hannibal Lecter. The film was not that big a success,

0:27:43 > 0:27:46but what it did, while you were doing that,

0:27:46 > 0:27:49somebody played King Lear and you swapped round.

0:27:49 > 0:27:52Tony Hopkins was playing King Lear while I was doing Hannibal Lecter,

0:27:52 > 0:27:55then when he did Hannibal Lecter, I was doing King Lear.

0:27:55 > 0:27:59It was weird, because the film, the producer went into bankruptcy,

0:27:59 > 0:28:02so the film remained in escrow for a long time.

0:28:02 > 0:28:07And then Jeremy Thomas released it here in the United Kingdom

0:28:07 > 0:28:09and it became a huge success.

0:28:09 > 0:28:13And then when The Silence of the Lambs came out, they put it on television,

0:28:13 > 0:28:16and it was the highest rating television they had in the US.

0:28:16 > 0:28:19- It became a cult hit. - Became a huge cult hit, yes.

0:28:19 > 0:28:24So literally all we do now is scoop these out.

0:28:24 > 0:28:27- You can smell the aubergine. - I love aubergine.

0:28:27 > 0:28:30You don't use too many oak chippings, but you get rid of the skin like that.

0:28:30 > 0:28:34- Can you buy oak chippings? Just buy them?- You can buy them from a garden centre.

0:28:34 > 0:28:38But it's the theatre you've gone back into now?

0:28:38 > 0:28:43Yes, I've come back. You have to keep your, as it were, end up!

0:28:43 > 0:28:48To keep your skills going you have to do the theatre periodically

0:28:48 > 0:28:54- so I'm now doing Lolita which is a one-man performance. - It's a massive role.- It's huge.

0:28:54 > 0:29:00We have to condense a 330-page novel into an 88-page script.

0:29:00 > 0:29:05And it's tough! But it's good. I'm working with a wonderful editor/adapter/writer

0:29:05 > 0:29:08- called Richard Nelson.- How do you remember 90 minutes?

0:29:08 > 0:29:13Well, what I do is, it's kind of semi-memorised.

0:29:13 > 0:29:15A lot of it is read from his notebooks.

0:29:15 > 0:29:18So we create a world where he's in his cell,

0:29:18 > 0:29:20it's Humbert Humbert in his cell.

0:29:20 > 0:29:24And it's just after he's finished the book.

0:29:24 > 0:29:27And he starts to re-read passages of the book.

0:29:27 > 0:29:31And it kind of creates this world, really.

0:29:31 > 0:29:36The problem about the book is, when you do the book,

0:29:36 > 0:29:38everybody has this image of Lolita

0:29:38 > 0:29:41but when you make a film of it, you see Lolita.

0:29:41 > 0:29:44Whereas the image of Lolita is still in the guy's head.

0:29:44 > 0:29:49You have a specific thing about research. You try not to research things too much?

0:29:49 > 0:29:51No. I think you can research things good.

0:29:51 > 0:29:54The proof is in the pudding, rather than the...

0:29:54 > 0:29:56I mean, I'm not totally against research.

0:29:56 > 0:30:00It's a fallacy to say you don't do some research. I do a lot of research.

0:30:00 > 0:30:05But I don't think research gives you a performance. A performance is something else.

0:30:05 > 0:30:08So the theatre you're in at the moment. Also you've got a movie.

0:30:08 > 0:30:09That's at the Film Festival.

0:30:09 > 0:30:13Literally when I open, I have to fly off to Toronto.

0:30:13 > 0:30:18In between two shows I'm going to the Toronto Film Festival.

0:30:18 > 0:30:22I've got a film called The Good Heart, which I made in Iceland

0:30:22 > 0:30:25just before the financial crisis which hit Iceland very badly.

0:30:25 > 0:30:29Thank God, we were able to get our film made

0:30:29 > 0:30:31- and that's coming up. - And the cheque cleared?

0:30:31 > 0:30:35The cheque cleared. The cheque did clear. They're very honourable there.

0:30:35 > 0:30:36They've had a rough time.

0:30:36 > 0:30:40- And then Mr Fox? - Yeah, Fantastic Mr Fox.

0:30:40 > 0:30:44- That's with George Clooney... - George Clooney, Meryl Streep,

0:30:44 > 0:30:46Jason Schwartzman.

0:30:46 > 0:30:49- That's out later this year? - That's out later on, yeah.

0:30:49 > 0:30:53- You've worked with some amazing people.- I've been very lucky.

0:30:53 > 0:30:57Right. Literally, you've got the smoked aubergine.

0:30:57 > 0:30:59There's a light hint to the smokiness,

0:30:59 > 0:31:05but it needs lemon juice, otherwise it's as if you're smoking 20 a day, without lemon juice.

0:31:05 > 0:31:09This is almost like my favourite vegetable of all time.

0:31:09 > 0:31:11It is very, very straightforward.

0:31:11 > 0:31:13A nice bit of aubergine puree.

0:31:13 > 0:31:15- It's great cold, as well, this. - Really?

0:31:15 > 0:31:17Then you've got the duck.

0:31:17 > 0:31:20I've got a reduced sauce here. The French love reduction sauces.

0:31:20 > 0:31:23This duck, which you leave to rest,

0:31:23 > 0:31:25and it should be nice and pink.

0:31:25 > 0:31:28So once you've pan-fried it,

0:31:28 > 0:31:32it goes literally in the oven eight minutes at 200 degrees Centigrade.

0:31:32 > 0:31:34No more than that. Keep it nice and pink.

0:31:34 > 0:31:37It's really important that you don't overcook duck

0:31:37 > 0:31:38because it can become very tough.

0:31:38 > 0:31:41James, does the aubergine take a lot of seasoning?

0:31:41 > 0:31:44Plenty of salt. That's the thing with that.

0:31:44 > 0:31:48Just a little bit of this red wine sauce on the side.

0:31:48 > 0:31:50That's it. Very, very French.

0:31:50 > 0:31:53Bistro cooking. Dive into that.

0:31:53 > 0:31:55Tell us what you think of that one.

0:31:56 > 0:32:00- I'm just going to taste...- Straight into the aubergine. It's got a delicate smokiness.

0:32:00 > 0:32:05- I cooked it the first time in France.- Oh, that's fantastic! - Like that?

0:32:05 > 0:32:08- Oh, yes. That's wonderful. - He's a good actor, as well!

0:32:13 > 0:32:16That's great French bistro-style cooking

0:32:16 > 0:32:18that's surprisingly easy to do.

0:32:18 > 0:32:20If you'd like to have a go at that duck dish

0:32:20 > 0:32:23or try your hand at any of the recipes on today's show,

0:32:23 > 0:32:27they're just a click away at BBC.co.uk/recipes.

0:32:27 > 0:32:31We're not live today. Instead, we're looking back at some great cooking from the Saturday Kitchen archives.

0:32:31 > 0:32:35Now it's time for an Italian twist on liver and bacon

0:32:35 > 0:32:37thanks to the honorary Italian, Theo Randall.

0:32:37 > 0:32:41Good to have you on the show. I ate at your restaurant yesterday. Very good it was, too.

0:32:41 > 0:32:43- Thank you.- Scallops. Delicious. Lovely.

0:32:43 > 0:32:47- What are we cooking today?- Pan-fried calves liver with pancetta, sage,

0:32:47 > 0:32:53lentils, Swiss chard, a bit of chilli with the Swiss chard, creme fraiche and balsamic vinegar.

0:32:53 > 0:32:57We don't put calves liver and lentils together normally. Is it calves liver and mash?

0:32:57 > 0:32:59Yes, it's an alternative.

0:32:59 > 0:33:02It's a nice carbohydrate. I love... Or pulse, rather.

0:33:02 > 0:33:04It's very nice with liver.

0:33:04 > 0:33:07And it's really nice with the balsamic and the creme fraiche and the chard.

0:33:07 > 0:33:11- What's first, then?- Well, this is a nice bit of liver

0:33:11 > 0:33:13which I'm just going to trim up.

0:33:13 > 0:33:16You get liver sometimes that has these sinews in.

0:33:16 > 0:33:19And it's great if you want to take them out.

0:33:19 > 0:33:22Because liver's so tender, if you've got this tough old sinew,

0:33:22 > 0:33:23it defeats the purpose of it.

0:33:23 > 0:33:28This calf's liver is not the same calf's liver as the normal stuff you buy in the supermarket?

0:33:28 > 0:33:30This is French Limousin liver

0:33:30 > 0:33:34which is really the best in the world.

0:33:34 > 0:33:36It's the one that's had the nicest life.

0:33:36 > 0:33:38They're six-month-old calves.

0:33:38 > 0:33:41- What, by the sea in a deck chair? - By the sea in a deck chair, yes!

0:33:42 > 0:33:48They haven't got that sort of bitter taste that you get with a lot of liver.

0:33:48 > 0:33:51Do you think a lot of that is because people overcook it generally?

0:33:51 > 0:33:56People tend to overcook it. A liver this size, I'd only cook it a minute on each side.

0:33:56 > 0:33:58You want it to be pink in the middle.

0:33:58 > 0:34:00This liver's quite expensive, isn't it?

0:34:00 > 0:34:04It's more expensive than other liver, but it's definitely worth it.

0:34:04 > 0:34:08- Definitely worth it. That piece, about a fiver?- About that.

0:34:08 > 0:34:10How much is it in your restaurant?

0:34:11 > 0:34:14- We'll talk about that later! - Not as much as it is in his!

0:34:14 > 0:34:17I'm all quiet over here!

0:34:17 > 0:34:18- Exactly!- Quiet, yes.

0:34:18 > 0:34:20With this we're going to do some pancetta,

0:34:20 > 0:34:22which is smoked pork belly.

0:34:22 > 0:34:25I'm going to throw this in a pan without any oil

0:34:25 > 0:34:27cos it's got a lovely fat on it already.

0:34:27 > 0:34:33You want all the fat to come out and give it that sweet flavour you get from bacon.

0:34:35 > 0:34:37Tell us a bit about... I'm chopping up the chard here.

0:34:37 > 0:34:40Tell me a bit about chard. Italians love it?

0:34:40 > 0:34:43Italians love it. It's a seasonal thing at the moment.

0:34:43 > 0:34:46These stalks have got a real sweetness

0:34:46 > 0:34:48and if you blanch the stalk in here,

0:34:48 > 0:34:51when you braise them it's got a really nice taste.

0:34:51 > 0:34:54Particularly with the garlic and the chilli.

0:34:54 > 0:34:55It makes a huge difference.

0:34:55 > 0:34:59You use the leaves as well, but you just blanch these a bit longer.

0:34:59 > 0:35:02Yes. And so put the leaves in.

0:35:02 > 0:35:07We cooked some lentils before. Lentils with garlic, sage and water, about 20 minutes.

0:35:07 > 0:35:11You're using the little puy lentils that we've got here?

0:35:11 > 0:35:15These are puy lentils. There are loads of lentils on the market.

0:35:15 > 0:35:17You can get Castelluccio lentils, Italian lentils.

0:35:17 > 0:35:23They're a bit lighter in colour but they're the ones you get most in the supermarkets and delis.

0:35:23 > 0:35:25They cook quite quickly, don't they?

0:35:25 > 0:35:27They cook quickly. There's no need to soak them.

0:35:27 > 0:35:32- Yep.- I think oil and a bit of lemon is the best thing for them, really.

0:35:32 > 0:35:35So the pancetta's starting to fry a bit.

0:35:35 > 0:35:40You get this really nice smell from the pancetta. The sage is cooking in the fat of the pancetta.

0:35:43 > 0:35:47Then while we're doing that, we're going to slice a bit of garlic. Thank you.

0:35:47 > 0:35:49You can smell it already, can't you?

0:35:49 > 0:35:50Yeah.

0:35:50 > 0:35:52A bit of olive oil in the pan for the chard.

0:35:53 > 0:35:57- These won't take very long. - Just fry them off.

0:35:58 > 0:36:03Soften the garlic. Add chilli. That gives it a kick, which is nice with the chard.

0:36:04 > 0:36:06That's it.

0:36:06 > 0:36:08Quick toss.

0:36:08 > 0:36:10I love the fact that everything's in the pan.

0:36:10 > 0:36:12It's all about ingredients, pure flavour.

0:36:12 > 0:36:14It's all very quick, quick, quick.

0:36:14 > 0:36:18- I like that.- It's all on a four gas... You don't need a huge great stove to do it.

0:36:18 > 0:36:21Get some chard in.

0:36:21 > 0:36:22There's your chard, strained off.

0:36:22 > 0:36:25Add that to it.

0:36:25 > 0:36:27Straight in there. Lovely.

0:36:27 > 0:36:29Got the pancetta there. We're going to put the liver in.

0:36:29 > 0:36:31A bit of butter with liver is really nice.

0:36:31 > 0:36:34- It adds that sweet flavour you want. - OK.

0:36:34 > 0:36:37This liver doesn't take long to cook at all. What are you looking at?

0:36:37 > 0:36:39- A minute each side.- A minute each side. That's it.

0:36:39 > 0:36:43Do you think that's a common mistake? A lot of people would put flour on this, as well.

0:36:43 > 0:36:45Flour would completely ruin it.

0:36:45 > 0:36:48- I'm just going to get a slight bit of colour onto it.- Yep.

0:36:49 > 0:36:51There's a sink behind you.

0:36:54 > 0:36:56Put that out of the way so you can see.

0:36:56 > 0:36:58So if you squeeze a lemon into those lentils.

0:36:58 > 0:37:03- Squeeze a lemon into the lentils. - Yep.- So the secret of the liver is a really hot pan?

0:37:03 > 0:37:07Really hot pan. Make sure the butter goes a light golden colour.

0:37:07 > 0:37:10You're cooking it in the same pan as the pancetta.

0:37:10 > 0:37:13All the fat from the pancetta goes through the liver

0:37:13 > 0:37:17and it adds more seasoning and creates more flavour to it.

0:37:17 > 0:37:19Do you cook much liver in the restaurant?

0:37:19 > 0:37:21Yes, I serve a lot of liver. It's very popular, actually.

0:37:21 > 0:37:24Spring, summer time, I love liver.

0:37:24 > 0:37:28- A lot of restaurants don't do it. - I don't know why. They're scared of doing it.

0:37:28 > 0:37:32- I think you've got to love liver. - I love offal, full stop.

0:37:32 > 0:37:34I prefer the innards to the outtards!

0:37:34 > 0:37:36Great. Lovely.

0:37:37 > 0:37:40- Right. OK.- So then we need some balsamic vinegar.

0:37:42 > 0:37:46- These are your lentils. Do you want me to season those?- Yes, please.

0:37:46 > 0:37:47Salt and pepper.

0:37:48 > 0:37:52These are great warm in salads, too, aren't they, lentils?

0:37:52 > 0:37:56- Not just...- I mean, salads are very nice,

0:37:56 > 0:38:00or even on their own, just cold, with some nice herbs.

0:38:00 > 0:38:03Very nice with chopped parsley and chilli or something.

0:38:03 > 0:38:07OK. I'm going to put this gorgeous green chard on there.

0:38:07 > 0:38:10You're only saying they're good for you cos you've got these two sat next to you!

0:38:10 > 0:38:13- I'm being a good boy.- I've been to your restaurant. You put double cream...

0:38:13 > 0:38:16Even better with half a pound of butter on it!

0:38:18 > 0:38:19Get this liver in the pan.

0:38:19 > 0:38:22- Smells good.- Lovely. Sweet, beautiful.

0:38:24 > 0:38:27It's that caramelisation on the liver that I love as well.

0:38:27 > 0:38:28Lovely pancetta.

0:38:28 > 0:38:31- You need to get colour on it, don't you?- Yeah.

0:38:32 > 0:38:33Pancetta on the top.

0:38:35 > 0:38:36Sage.

0:38:36 > 0:38:40This is kind of like a little sauce to go with it, this one.

0:38:40 > 0:38:44I'll deglaze the pan with some balsamic. Not too much. But a good quality one.

0:38:44 > 0:38:48If you don't, you tend to get a slightly nasty vinegar taste.

0:38:50 > 0:38:52Lentils in there. Thank you.

0:38:52 > 0:38:57- Do you use a lot of different vinegars?- Balsamic, yeah, red wine vinegar.

0:38:57 > 0:39:00Not many aroma ones, just the basic ones.

0:39:00 > 0:39:03It's nice just to have a knob of creme fraiche at the top.

0:39:03 > 0:39:06Gives it that extra creaminess.

0:39:06 > 0:39:09That creates its own sauce in the juices from the pan. Just strained off the fat.

0:39:09 > 0:39:11Very simple.

0:39:12 > 0:39:16Clean that little blob. Theo, that looks fantastic.

0:39:16 > 0:39:20- Remind us again.- Pan-fried calf's liver, pancetta, sage, lentils and chard.

0:39:20 > 0:39:22Cooked in about six minutes. As easy as that.

0:39:27 > 0:39:29Theo, that does look amazing.

0:39:29 > 0:39:32It looks delicious. A proper meal. There we go.

0:39:32 > 0:39:34Do you want chips with this, Tim?

0:39:34 > 0:39:37I think we should start at the other end!

0:39:37 > 0:39:40I think that's a good idea!

0:39:40 > 0:39:46Liver particularly, I think the golden rule is don't overcook it.

0:39:46 > 0:39:48This is probably one of Tim's pet hates.

0:39:48 > 0:39:52Yeah, because it goes tough and livery. It has that kind of slightly...

0:39:52 > 0:39:55- Gorgeous.- Is it nice? - Absolutely gorgeous.

0:39:55 > 0:39:59Particularly with the balsamic... Sorry, Stuart. You're not getting any!

0:40:01 > 0:40:05It should have a pinkness all the way through, unless you want it well done.

0:40:05 > 0:40:08These lentils, you hardly seemed to cook them at all.

0:40:08 > 0:40:12- They were already done!- You weren't paying that much attention!

0:40:12 > 0:40:16They were boiled with garlic and sage and dressed with oil and lemon.

0:40:16 > 0:40:19- It's quick as well.- About 25 minutes.- It's really tender!

0:40:24 > 0:40:28That went down a treat. Now it's time for a trip to the north-west of France

0:40:28 > 0:40:30because Keith Floyd is in Brittany.

0:40:30 > 0:40:34He's in the mood for cooking, but there's bound to be wine involved somewhere!

0:40:34 > 0:40:37# When you're visiting St Malo

0:40:37 > 0:40:39# You just have to see the sights

0:40:39 > 0:40:42# Busy old time in the morning

0:40:42 > 0:40:44# And by night the harbour lights

0:40:44 > 0:40:49# It is famous for its vistas, It is famous for its views

0:40:49 > 0:40:51# There's a brilliance of the colour

0:40:51 > 0:40:54# A diversity of views

0:40:54 > 0:40:56# There's the vast fortifications

0:40:56 > 0:40:58# And the picturesque old quays

0:40:58 > 0:41:03# With amazing panorama and the prospects such as these

0:41:03 > 0:41:07# You'd not credit they exist

0:41:07 > 0:41:14# Lost in all this bloody mist! #

0:41:14 > 0:41:18That was, of course, The Nearly OK Corral, the boys from Clifton being very witty.

0:41:18 > 0:41:20I understand. Know what I mean?

0:41:20 > 0:41:24But this little caff nestling in the cobbled streets of St Malo

0:41:24 > 0:41:26was a source of inspiration to me.

0:41:26 > 0:41:29Jacques Ives and his dad, who's got more war stories than Gunga Din,

0:41:29 > 0:41:33are creating a little mapette of Brittany, the classic assiette de fruits de mer,

0:41:33 > 0:41:37a riot of colour and flavour from lobsters to winkles,

0:41:37 > 0:41:41from clams to crabs, mussels to prawns and cockles to orsin.

0:41:41 > 0:41:43From dust to dust and ashes to ashes.

0:41:43 > 0:41:47But the sea urchin, that gently perfumed prickly egg

0:41:47 > 0:41:50that tastes like a moonbeam on a calm sea is superb.

0:41:50 > 0:41:54Expensive, of course, in a restaurant, but you could pick a lot from the shores yourself.

0:41:54 > 0:41:59Forget the lobster. Have a feast on cockles, winkles, mussels and clams.

0:41:59 > 0:42:01And perhaps the odd crab or two.

0:42:02 > 0:42:06There's a lot more to Brittany cooking than just plates of seafood and pancakes.

0:42:06 > 0:42:10Brittany hasn't always been a rich and prosperous tourist area.

0:42:10 > 0:42:13The real people here eat simple, humble things,

0:42:13 > 0:42:16like this amazing dish Jacques and I are going to cook for you today.

0:42:16 > 0:42:19It's the same kind of dish as a Lancashire hot-pot

0:42:19 > 0:42:21or as the boiled bacon and cabbage as you find in Ireland.

0:42:21 > 0:42:23It's very complicated, it takes hours to do.

0:42:23 > 0:42:27We're far too busy. We've a half-hour programme to demonstrate the whole thing properly.

0:42:27 > 0:42:31I'm bound to cheat, we're bound to have a little glass in-between times.

0:42:31 > 0:42:35This is Jacques. You might have met him a few years ago in a wonderful series called Floyd on Fish.

0:42:35 > 0:42:37We've returned to cook this brilliant dish.

0:42:37 > 0:42:40Jacques, while we much about with all of these things,

0:42:40 > 0:42:45you've got about two minutes to explain how, this dish, where it comes from,

0:42:45 > 0:42:48- why we're doing it. And we've got to fill this up as well.- OK.

0:42:48 > 0:42:52Watch all this. You can find out - turn to page 76 of my brilliant new book

0:42:52 > 0:42:53for the exact details.

0:42:53 > 0:42:55Where does this dish come from?

0:42:55 > 0:42:58It used to be an old farmers' dish,

0:42:58 > 0:43:01cooked by women in the fireplace.

0:43:01 > 0:43:06And it's supposed to be a very poor dish.

0:43:06 > 0:43:10Because everything you need for that course is supposed to be at the farm.

0:43:10 > 0:43:11But, um...

0:43:13 > 0:43:17- Let's see. That's it.- You tie it up. That's a bit boring, all of that.

0:43:17 > 0:43:21It's an old peasant dish, OK? We're doing it very quickly in this brilliant half-hour programme.

0:43:21 > 0:43:26Throw that away. That, by the way, is buckwheat flour, eggs, butter, cream and milk all whisked up.

0:43:26 > 0:43:29Made like a Christmas pudding, made like a dumpling.

0:43:29 > 0:43:33In the meantime, what we do, Clive, is we have this brilliant piece of beef,

0:43:33 > 0:43:38these bones of beef, and we pop those into simmering hot water.

0:43:38 > 0:43:40I don't know if you can see that from here.

0:43:40 > 0:43:47They go in there for, ooh, about four-and-a-half hours to simmer very, very slowly

0:43:47 > 0:43:49to get a lovely rich juice.

0:43:49 > 0:43:52Also, imagine, please - out the way, Jacques, please!

0:43:52 > 0:43:57- Sorry!- Imagine, please, that has now been simmering for two-and-a-half hours.

0:43:57 > 0:43:59OK? Cos it has.

0:43:59 > 0:44:03So we put in some onions. One, two, three.

0:44:03 > 0:44:05Four onions. A couple of little turnips.

0:44:07 > 0:44:10A few carrots and a few leeks.

0:44:10 > 0:44:14And we let that simmer for about 20 minutes.

0:44:14 > 0:44:1620 minutes has passed. Clever, isn't it?

0:44:16 > 0:44:21Cos we then put in the cabbage. Brittany is famous for its cabbages and cauliflowers.

0:44:21 > 0:44:23They go in there like that.

0:44:23 > 0:44:25Now that has happened two-and-a-half hours ago.

0:44:25 > 0:44:28At the same time, in this big boiling pot,

0:44:28 > 0:44:31we've got water - passez-moi le sac, s'il tu plait -

0:44:31 > 0:44:35we have this dumpling which we put in there, but we don't.

0:44:35 > 0:44:38- We pass that to the director. - Thank you very much!

0:44:38 > 0:44:42- And we pass it back!- Who would not get into the World Cup this year!

0:44:42 > 0:44:45Hey, what are you doing about this? You just forgot it!

0:44:45 > 0:44:48Good Lord! Awfully sorry, I forgot to put the smoked bacon and the sausages in.

0:44:48 > 0:44:52They go in and simmer with the dumplings for the last hour or so.

0:44:52 > 0:44:55At the same time, these lovely dumplings have been cooked.

0:44:55 > 0:44:56OK?

0:44:56 > 0:44:58Clive, where are you? Can you still see me?

0:44:58 > 0:45:02Let me show you what happens at the end of all that.

0:45:02 > 0:45:08You have...these brilliant pieces of meat...

0:45:08 > 0:45:11cabbage and vegetables.

0:45:11 > 0:45:13Look at that.

0:45:13 > 0:45:15Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.

0:45:15 > 0:45:18The cameraman's telling me to lift it up. There's the beef cooked.

0:45:18 > 0:45:24OK? There's the clear consomme which you eat as a soup before you have the dish.

0:45:24 > 0:45:29There's the cabbage which you'll remember we added almost at the end of the cooking.

0:45:29 > 0:45:32There are the carrots and the little swedes.

0:45:32 > 0:45:34It's rather brilliant, isn't it?

0:45:34 > 0:45:37What we'll do now is amuse ourselves. Go and weed the garden,

0:45:37 > 0:45:41read your cookery books, do your yoga and we'll dish it up and you can taste it.

0:45:44 > 0:45:45Well, there you are.

0:45:45 > 0:45:49OK, Clive, long, loving pan right across this.

0:45:49 > 0:45:51The smoked bacon, the rib of beef,

0:45:51 > 0:45:54the smoked sausages, the little turnips,

0:45:54 > 0:45:58little carrots, cabbage and this splendid dumpling.

0:45:58 > 0:46:00It's a wonderfully simple dish.

0:46:00 > 0:46:03It's typical all over France, this kind of long-cooked dish

0:46:03 > 0:46:07containing very simple ingredients, like the choucroute in Alsace.

0:46:07 > 0:46:09But why are we so ashamed in Britain of the wonderful things we do?

0:46:09 > 0:46:12Like the Hank... Lancashire hot-pot. Not the Hankashire hot-pot!

0:46:12 > 0:46:16It's exactly the same kind of thing. We'll do that in my next series.

0:46:16 > 0:46:18Anyway, this is a peasant farmers' dish.

0:46:18 > 0:46:21Do you know, curiously enough, and believe me or believe me not,

0:46:21 > 0:46:23you do not eat this with wine or cider or beer.

0:46:23 > 0:46:25You drink it with milk.

0:46:25 > 0:46:27I was drinking milk with my friend Jacques Ives

0:46:27 > 0:46:32who I met two years ago where this series, Floyd on France was created.

0:46:32 > 0:46:35One night, we were sipping our milk. Late winter evening, nothing else to do.

0:46:35 > 0:46:37A little honey, slightly warm, cold night.

0:46:37 > 0:46:41And we planned Floyd on France. Good night!

0:46:46 > 0:46:49Oh, dear, he's done it again!

0:46:49 > 0:46:50There's a cameraman in the tree.

0:46:50 > 0:46:52All I'm trying to do is a little cooking sequence,

0:46:52 > 0:46:54a light lunch for some friends of mine.

0:46:54 > 0:46:59I know you expect to find me in the posh restaurants and posh kitchens of fine hotels,

0:46:59 > 0:47:03but sometimes it's nice to come to a family, and that's what we've done.

0:47:03 > 0:47:06Because the director is really obsessed with architecture,

0:47:06 > 0:47:08he chose this house not because it's got a wonderful kitchen,

0:47:08 > 0:47:11in fact, the kitchen isn't all that good, really,

0:47:11 > 0:47:12but he loves the shape of the building.

0:47:12 > 0:47:16So here I am. If it's not too much trouble for you, Clive,

0:47:16 > 0:47:19come out of the blinking tree and come into the kitchen.

0:47:19 > 0:47:21Is that all right with you? Good. See you in a moment.

0:47:23 > 0:47:25Ah, good. Thank you very much.

0:47:25 > 0:47:28I'm cooking Sunday lunch for my friends Michelle and Henri.

0:47:28 > 0:47:32It's a superb and classic Brittany dish, chicken roasted in cider.

0:47:32 > 0:47:33They've never heard of it! Typical!

0:47:33 > 0:47:38Anyway, Clive, come over here. We're roasting a chicken. I'll explain that in a second.

0:47:38 > 0:47:43I'm going to serve it with stuffed apples. Baked apples stuffed with walnuts and raisins.

0:47:43 > 0:47:46You'll see all of this later on. That's one part of it.

0:47:46 > 0:47:51I'm going to serve it with a vegetable of fresh artichoke, absolutely cleaned out,

0:47:51 > 0:47:54just the heart and the lovely little leaves. Come here a bit, Clive.

0:47:54 > 0:47:58Stuffed with what we call a jardiniere des legumes,

0:47:58 > 0:48:02little peas, lettuce, carrots, young baby turnips and stuff like that.

0:48:02 > 0:48:04And it'll be sort of like this.

0:48:04 > 0:48:06You'll see all of this later

0:48:06 > 0:48:08because film is very expensive

0:48:08 > 0:48:12and the director's much happier taking pictures of houses and architecture than cooking bits.

0:48:12 > 0:48:14Like that. OK? Right.

0:48:14 > 0:48:16While you were out playing in the garden,

0:48:16 > 0:48:18I was busy in the oven here. Come on down, Clive.

0:48:18 > 0:48:22I've got the chicken, which is free range. Actually, two of them.

0:48:22 > 0:48:24Two free-range farmers' chickens

0:48:24 > 0:48:28roasting in butter on a bed of chopped shallots and chopped carrots.

0:48:28 > 0:48:33At this stage, I need to put some splendid Brittany cider in.

0:48:33 > 0:48:36This will help me to make a sauce

0:48:36 > 0:48:40later on, of creamy cider and Calvados.

0:48:40 > 0:48:44So that must now go in the kitchen - no, not the kitchen, it's the oven!

0:48:44 > 0:48:47We all know that. For another three-quarters of an hour or so. Something like that.

0:48:47 > 0:48:49So if you'd like to cut now, turn round,

0:48:49 > 0:48:53you'll find Henri and Michelle busily preparing the hors d'oeuvre.

0:48:53 > 0:48:56SPEAKS FRENCH

0:49:03 > 0:49:05What are you actually making, Henri?

0:49:05 > 0:49:07A tuna fish salad

0:49:07 > 0:49:12with tuna, des oignons,

0:49:12 > 0:49:14- onions.- Onions.

0:49:14 > 0:49:15Chou-fleur.

0:49:15 > 0:49:17Cauliflower.

0:49:17 > 0:49:19Concombre.

0:49:19 > 0:49:21Tomates.

0:49:22 > 0:49:23Quelque capres.

0:49:23 > 0:49:25- Pour le gout.- Oui.

0:49:25 > 0:49:28Et puis, je fais un petit vinaigrette.

0:49:28 > 0:49:30Attention! Chaud!

0:49:30 > 0:49:32Female dragon!

0:49:32 > 0:49:35That's the rice. Going to be rice in it as well?

0:49:35 > 0:49:36C'est lourd.

0:49:38 > 0:49:40HENRI SPEAKS FRENCH

0:49:41 > 0:49:43It's quite interesting here, actually,

0:49:43 > 0:49:47how, the thing I'm always talking about that cooking is a family affair,

0:49:47 > 0:49:49these two are cooking together.

0:49:49 > 0:49:52They've kept the kids out cos they're noisy and trip over the camera and stuff,

0:49:52 > 0:49:55but normally, they'd be peeling things and doing stuff.

0:49:55 > 0:49:57That's true, Henri? Everybody likes to cook in this house.

0:49:57 > 0:50:01Everybody likes to eat also!

0:50:03 > 0:50:05Also we don't have a lot of time

0:50:05 > 0:50:08so that's why usually the children help us.

0:50:09 > 0:50:12Why are you cooking langoustine for lunch?

0:50:12 > 0:50:15Because it's the quickest meal you can find.

0:50:15 > 0:50:17And I'm very lazy.

0:50:17 > 0:50:20And usually, in Brittany,

0:50:20 > 0:50:23very often we begin by langoustine.

0:50:23 > 0:50:27They are fresh, they are nice, they are easy to cook.

0:50:27 > 0:50:29The only thing you have to know

0:50:29 > 0:50:34is that you mustn't leave them to cook too long.

0:50:34 > 0:50:38- How long, exactly?- Well, you see the water was boiling.

0:50:38 > 0:50:43And you put them in water boiling with some salt.

0:50:43 > 0:50:45- Sea salt.- Yes, sea salt.

0:50:45 > 0:50:49And then you wait for the first boiling.

0:50:49 > 0:50:50- And that's all.- That's it?

0:50:50 > 0:50:56Because if you leave them a little longer, they will be soft and not good to eat.

0:50:56 > 0:50:59- Right.- So you must stay on your langoustine.

0:50:59 > 0:51:02- It just takes a minute.- Fine. - So that's nice for me!

0:51:02 > 0:51:05You like to spend a lot of time in the kitchen, don't you?

0:51:05 > 0:51:08Well, yes, usually about ten minutes!

0:51:08 > 0:51:11HE LAUGHS

0:51:11 > 0:51:16No, we like to eat, but we don't have a lot of time to make.

0:51:16 > 0:51:19All the family is coming in the kitchen at the same time.

0:51:19 > 0:51:22While the children are putting the table on,

0:51:22 > 0:51:25I'm doing something, my husband is doing something else.

0:51:25 > 0:51:27And in ten minutes, everything is OK.

0:51:27 > 0:51:31That's because you've got fine Brittany fresh ingredients?

0:51:31 > 0:51:33Yes, that's the idea.

0:51:33 > 0:51:35Because as you see,

0:51:35 > 0:51:39Henri is making sometimes in summer time tuna fish salad.

0:51:39 > 0:51:43Because we have a nice garden. A lot of things are coming from the garden.

0:51:43 > 0:51:46It is not expensive to use the vegetables of the garden.

0:51:46 > 0:51:48Things like that.

0:51:48 > 0:51:50Langoustine are very fresh, very easy to cook.

0:51:50 > 0:51:54So it can make a very nice meal very easily.

0:51:54 > 0:51:56Who does the shopping in this household?

0:51:56 > 0:51:58The one who has time. Usually, it's Henri!

0:51:58 > 0:52:00HE LAUGHS

0:52:04 > 0:52:06They must be about ready now?

0:52:06 > 0:52:11Ca va. They are all boiling and there is a sort of white cream on it.

0:52:11 > 0:52:13Then they are ready. You just stop.

0:52:13 > 0:52:15And then...

0:52:17 > 0:52:20Wait. Hot.

0:52:22 > 0:52:23There you are.

0:52:26 > 0:52:30And it's ready! We just need a dish now.

0:52:30 > 0:52:32Henri?

0:52:33 > 0:52:37Henri's dropped a boo-boo. He hasn't got the plate ready!

0:52:37 > 0:52:39Mother's going to be furious!

0:52:39 > 0:52:41Non, il est trop petit.

0:52:41 > 0:52:43Non, non.

0:52:43 > 0:52:45Un autre?

0:52:45 > 0:52:46Non.

0:52:48 > 0:52:49Ah, oui. OK.

0:52:51 > 0:52:53Well, it's finished.

0:52:53 > 0:52:55The mayonnaise on top of that.

0:52:55 > 0:53:00We do the mayonnaise. We take five minutes, not more.

0:53:00 > 0:53:03Well, two minutes, not more. It's ready to eat.

0:53:03 > 0:53:06Because it is very nice only if it is not cold.

0:53:06 > 0:53:09It is much, much nicer when they are just cooked.

0:53:09 > 0:53:11OK? We do the mayonnaise now.

0:53:18 > 0:53:21En France, on ne peut pas manger la bouche pleine.

0:53:21 > 0:53:24No. Ni parler avec la bouche pleine!

0:53:24 > 0:53:25Voila!

0:53:31 > 0:53:34SPEAKS FRENCH

0:53:42 > 0:53:44- Tiens.- Non.

0:53:44 > 0:53:48- He is shy.- Very shy. I am very shy.

0:53:48 > 0:53:49I will show you.

0:53:50 > 0:53:53Anyway, the time has come for me to go.

0:53:53 > 0:53:57Life isn't just one happy round of langoustines. I have to carry on cooking.

0:53:57 > 0:54:01These wonderful people won't get to eat unless I bring in my dish.

0:54:01 > 0:54:04So I'm off to do that. You carry on, all of you. Just enjoy yourselves.

0:54:04 > 0:54:06I've got to do the hard work!

0:54:06 > 0:54:11'We let this sequence with all the munching and the crunching run on a bit,

0:54:11 > 0:54:13'because I was so enjoying lunch.

0:54:13 > 0:54:16'I completely forgot the camera and really felt at home here.

0:54:16 > 0:54:18'That's what the French are all about.

0:54:18 > 0:54:21Food is family and sharing.'

0:54:21 > 0:54:26Slight snack. This is a little dish which I hope you'll enjoy enormously.

0:54:26 > 0:54:29Clive, have a look at that. That is my sweated labour this morning.

0:54:29 > 0:54:33While they've been eating langoustines, the director's been up trees, I've been cooking.

0:54:33 > 0:54:38What I want to do, for the benefit of everybody, is to recap on how this was cooked.

0:54:38 > 0:54:44It's a simple roast chicken on a bed of roast shallots and onions and carrots roasted in butter.

0:54:44 > 0:54:48Then I poured cider into it. Then it cooked for about an hour.

0:54:48 > 0:54:52Then I put cored apple which I stuffed with walnuts and sultanas and sugar,

0:54:52 > 0:54:54baked those in the oven,

0:54:54 > 0:54:57put them round the chicken, then I strained off all the liquid

0:54:57 > 0:55:01reduced it, mixed in some double cream and some butter,

0:55:01 > 0:55:03and strained it through a sieve over the sauce

0:55:03 > 0:55:04and I made that myself, OK.

0:55:04 > 0:55:07And even the Brittany people have never even heard of this dish

0:55:07 > 0:55:09and yet it's a classic Brittany dish.

0:55:09 > 0:55:15Here, quite simply, some fresh vegetables stewed with bacon, carrots, little turnips,

0:55:15 > 0:55:19lettuce and stuff like that in no water at all, just butter.

0:55:19 > 0:55:22Then filled into the cleaned out shells of artichokes.

0:55:22 > 0:55:26So that's what I've done. You can all have a lovely time. Bon appetit!

0:55:26 > 0:55:27Monsieur. On va manger?

0:55:27 > 0:55:30Tres bien. Je ne sais pas si c'est bon,

0:55:30 > 0:55:32mais ca sens bon.

0:55:32 > 0:55:36'He's saying here, it smells good, let's hope it tastes good.

0:55:36 > 0:55:38Usual doubting Thomas routine!

0:55:38 > 0:55:43Anyway, it was a success, although they'd never heard of my Brittany chicken and cider dish.

0:55:43 > 0:55:46Anyway, we finished with cheese and the classic tarte aux pommes.

0:55:46 > 0:55:51It wasn't a difficult lunch to cook, just a harmonious melange of fresh produce and love.

0:55:51 > 0:55:53Yum-yum!

0:56:00 > 0:56:01C'est tres bon!

0:56:01 > 0:56:03Mmm!

0:56:04 > 0:56:06Tres bon.

0:56:06 > 0:56:09MAN SPEAKS FRENCH

0:56:14 > 0:56:17That was classic stuff. We're not cooking live in the studio today.

0:56:17 > 0:56:22Instead, we're enjoying some of the tasty treats from the Saturday Kitchen recipe book.

0:56:22 > 0:56:24Still to come on today's Best Bites:

0:56:24 > 0:56:29Kenny Atkinson and Jose Pizarro are competitive in the Saturday Kitchen omelette challenge.

0:56:29 > 0:56:31You can see the results a little later on.

0:56:31 > 0:56:37Marcus Wareing cooks an incredible dish involving succulent milk-fed lamb.

0:56:37 > 0:56:40He slowly cooks the lamb and serves it with seared baby little gem lettuce,

0:56:40 > 0:56:43borlotti beans, courgettes and ewes' milk cheese.

0:56:43 > 0:56:47And EastEnder actress Patsy Palmer leaves Albert Square for a while

0:56:47 > 0:56:49as she faces her Food Heaven or Food Hell.

0:56:49 > 0:56:54Would she get her Food Heaven, strawberries with delicate strawberry mille feuilles

0:56:54 > 0:56:58with strawberry sauce, or Food Hell, smoked salmon with smoked salmon and spinach puff pastry tart

0:56:58 > 0:57:02served with watercress pesto and a watercress and walnut salad?

0:57:02 > 0:57:05Find out what she gets to eat at the end of the show.

0:57:05 > 0:57:09Now it's time for a taste of some really good cooking, thanks to Chris Galvin.

0:57:09 > 0:57:11Get ready to be impressed. I was!

0:57:11 > 0:57:13- Great to have you on. - Thank you very much.

0:57:13 > 0:57:15Now, tell us what we're cooking.

0:57:15 > 0:57:20We're going to grill some red mullet fillets. Beautiful small fillets.

0:57:20 > 0:57:24- We're going to sear some squid with some garlic.- Lovely.

0:57:24 > 0:57:27We're going to make a salad of flat parsley, shallots,

0:57:27 > 0:57:30some orzo pasta...

0:57:30 > 0:57:32- Orzo is this sort of rice-shaped... - It's a rice-shaped pasta.

0:57:32 > 0:57:36- Which is fun. We'll cook it in a little saffron stock.- Yep.

0:57:36 > 0:57:38Some baby capers, super-fine capers,

0:57:38 > 0:57:41black olives and shallots.

0:57:41 > 0:57:43What's this one here?

0:57:43 > 0:57:45- A pepper.- Yeah, that's your job, James.

0:57:45 > 0:57:47OK. Do I need to take the skin off that first?

0:57:47 > 0:57:51Skin it, we'll cut it into strips and put it in the salad.

0:57:51 > 0:57:55- What's first, then? Fire away. - First job is to grill the fish.

0:57:55 > 0:57:58I think people are intimidated by cooking fish sometimes.

0:57:58 > 0:58:00This is a great way to start cooking.

0:58:00 > 0:58:04Fish that's not too thick. Certainly fillets like this,

0:58:04 > 0:58:07just put it on the grill and it'll cook in about two minutes.

0:58:07 > 0:58:08Very simple.

0:58:08 > 0:58:11First, we'll take some olive oil.

0:58:11 > 0:58:15- I use a regular olive oil to cook with.- Yeah.

0:58:15 > 0:58:19There's a misconception here that people go out and spend a lot of money

0:58:19 > 0:58:21on extra virgin oil, then they cook it and ruin it.

0:58:21 > 0:58:22Yeah.

0:58:22 > 0:58:26Cos extra virgin olive oil can react with heat

0:58:26 > 0:58:28but it also reacts with light.

0:58:28 > 0:58:30So you buy it in a dark bottle.

0:58:30 > 0:58:33If you buy it in a light bottle and keep it on a windowsill, it can go off.

0:58:33 > 0:58:38I'm not sure it interferes with the flavour. That beautiful green is something else

0:58:38 > 0:58:40when you see a beautiful fruity oil.

0:58:40 > 0:58:43I'm just checking the pin bones are taken out.

0:58:45 > 0:58:48But the extra virgin oil, we use to finish a dish.

0:58:48 > 0:58:49That's where the flavours are.

0:58:49 > 0:58:52If you heat it, all that fruit goes. It's an absolute waste.

0:58:52 > 0:58:57Tell us a bit about red mullet. You can get it most of the year round.

0:58:57 > 0:59:00I think where Graeme comes from there's some beautiful mullet.

0:59:00 > 0:59:02From around the islands there.

0:59:02 > 0:59:03And they say down in Weymouth,

0:59:03 > 0:59:08the sea would turn a brilliant sunrise red years ago

0:59:08 > 0:59:10there were so many mullet in the sea.

0:59:10 > 0:59:12Unfortunately, they're not there any more.

0:59:12 > 0:59:16But they still come from Cornwall, Dorset, we catch them round the British Isles.

0:59:16 > 0:59:19- OK.- OK. We'll brush the tops of the those with a bit of oil.

0:59:19 > 0:59:21- I'll do that for you. - Thank you very much.

0:59:21 > 0:59:23You can prep your squid.

0:59:23 > 0:59:27Then we're going to take the squid. Here we've got the baby squid.

0:59:27 > 0:59:29I'll show you how to clean this.

0:59:29 > 0:59:30We separate the head from the tail.

0:59:30 > 0:59:33Eugh! My kids would love that!

0:59:33 > 0:59:36Yes. Kept the eyes for your kids!

0:59:36 > 0:59:39They've got big eyes on this.

0:59:39 > 0:59:41Save the eyes for Graeme's kids!

0:59:41 > 0:59:44Does it have to be baby squid, or can you use larger squid?

0:59:44 > 0:59:47You can use larger squid, but you'd have to cook it very, very quickly

0:59:47 > 0:59:50or you'd need to braise it for a while to get it tender again.

0:59:50 > 0:59:53So the baby squid is nice and sweet

0:59:53 > 0:59:55and a beautiful caramel comes off it.

0:59:55 > 0:59:58- I'll stick that under the grill. - Yes, about two minutes, James.

0:59:58 > 0:59:59Two minutes. OK. We've got our squid.

0:59:59 > 1:00:03Can I chop something? I'll prep the garlic for you.

1:00:03 > 1:00:06What we need to do is slice the garlic.

1:00:06 > 1:00:12And we'll blanch that in some water, just to take off the sinews off the garlic.

1:00:12 > 1:00:15Then we'll fry it till it's nice and brown and crispy, with the squid.

1:00:15 > 1:00:17It cooks very, very quickly.

1:00:17 > 1:00:19Tell us about your restaurant in London.

1:00:19 > 1:00:22You're cooking with your brother, are you?

1:00:22 > 1:00:26Yeah, unbelievably! The nice thing is, cooking with a younger brother, he does what he's told!

1:00:26 > 1:00:30Right. You cook in one restaurant and he cooks in another?

1:00:30 > 1:00:33We cook together. We've never had a cross word in our lives.

1:00:33 > 1:00:35- Is that why you cook in separate restaurants?- Yeah, it is now!

1:00:35 > 1:00:38Am I right, you look out of your restaurant,

1:00:38 > 1:00:40it's in a fantastic location right on the top of the Hilton Hotel.

1:00:40 > 1:00:43One of the most beautiful views in London, for a restaurant?

1:00:43 > 1:00:45Yeah, we look down onto Baker Street.

1:00:45 > 1:00:47- So you can see him? - I keep my eye on him!

1:00:50 > 1:00:56- So I'm just literally blanching the garlic, just to take the harshness out?- That can come out now.

1:00:56 > 1:00:58You need to get the water off cos it's going into hot oil.

1:00:58 > 1:01:00We don't want to create a fire.

1:01:00 > 1:01:03The pan's hot here. It's full of squid now.

1:01:03 > 1:01:07It needs to get very, very hot. Get some olive oil in. Go with the garlic.

1:01:07 > 1:01:11Then the squid. Meantime, we'll get the salad together.

1:01:11 > 1:01:14We drop it in while it's warm.

1:01:14 > 1:01:17Now, we mentioned, we were on about travels and stuff.

1:01:17 > 1:01:20You travel a lot. Where do you get your influences with food from?

1:01:20 > 1:01:23Predominantly around France, yeah.

1:01:23 > 1:01:26I'm a bit of a bore. I go round and round France.

1:01:26 > 1:01:28But it's such a big country, so many beautiful regions,

1:01:28 > 1:01:31that I never tire of it.

1:01:31 > 1:01:34How do you feel about French food?

1:01:34 > 1:01:37Are they keeping up with everything else that's happening, or..?

1:01:37 > 1:01:41Absolutely. There are some really exciting young French chefs coming up.

1:01:41 > 1:01:43It's constantly evolving.

1:01:43 > 1:01:45Problem is, you can't reinvent the wheel.

1:01:45 > 1:01:50- There are some beautiful combinations that are time-honoured.- Classic French food is fabulous.

1:01:50 > 1:01:54Absolutely. As Graeme says, it's important we look at food to make sure it's clean,

1:01:54 > 1:01:57light, we eat in a different way to years ago.

1:01:57 > 1:02:00So we're going to get them almost from smoking.

1:02:00 > 1:02:04I'm also going to anoint this dish, we're going to finish this dish,

1:02:04 > 1:02:07with some Bagnoles wine which comes from the south-west of France.

1:02:07 > 1:02:10It's a fortified wine

1:02:10 > 1:02:14where there's a wine spirit added to it that stops it fermenting.

1:02:14 > 1:02:16It just leaves some residual sugar.

1:02:16 > 1:02:19So rather than the ubiquitous balsamic,

1:02:19 > 1:02:23we're going to have some Bagnoles wine which is reduced here in the pan.

1:02:23 > 1:02:26- It's come down nicely.- Not too dissimilar to balsamic.

1:02:26 > 1:02:28The oak barrels to mature.

1:02:28 > 1:02:31That's right, but it has very much its own flavour.

1:02:31 > 1:02:35You can serve it with some foie gras to start, or you can serve it with a dessert.

1:02:35 > 1:02:37Have you heard of the Bagnoles wine, Ains?

1:02:37 > 1:02:41I was thinking back. As soon as you said it,

1:02:41 > 1:02:47it takes me back to visiting a few places and trying it.

1:02:47 > 1:02:50It's quite intense, isn't it, Chris?

1:02:50 > 1:02:54It is. It's deep. This is a three-year old Bagnoles.

1:02:54 > 1:02:56As it gets older, the flavours develop

1:02:56 > 1:02:59- and you start to get candied fruits coming into it.- Yeah.

1:02:59 > 1:03:03And almost a cocoa tobacco flavour ten years or more.

1:03:03 > 1:03:06Then it gets a bit expensive, then. But a three-year-old is nice.

1:03:06 > 1:03:08Fish is under the grill, chef.

1:03:08 > 1:03:12It's out of the grill, Ains. It's out of the grill.

1:03:12 > 1:03:14ALL SPEAK AT ONCE

1:03:14 > 1:03:18See what I mean? Interfering! Interfering, see?

1:03:18 > 1:03:20It's a joke, OK?

1:03:20 > 1:03:22- Get the squid on.- Here we go.

1:03:22 > 1:03:23So, in with the garlic.

1:03:23 > 1:03:28Now, the secret is with squid, what? Very, very quick cooking?

1:03:28 > 1:03:31Very, very fast. Now I'm going to draft the rest of the ingredients.

1:03:31 > 1:03:33And this is where the simplicity comes in.

1:03:33 > 1:03:37Black olives, fine capers...

1:03:39 > 1:03:41The orzo. It's a beautiful colour.

1:03:41 > 1:03:45That pasta is fantastic when you cook it with saffron.

1:03:45 > 1:03:49I feel like I'm working back in a kitchen here!

1:03:50 > 1:03:52Graeme, where's your knife?

1:03:52 > 1:03:54Get yourself over here, Ainsley!

1:03:54 > 1:03:57Right. I'm going in with the squid now. The pan is nice and hot.

1:03:57 > 1:04:00Do you want me to segment this lemon?

1:04:00 > 1:04:03- Just leave some segments of lemon there.- Right.

1:04:03 > 1:04:05- A hot pan, then(!)- Very hot!

1:04:09 > 1:04:14It's fine. If you're doing this at home, do it outside!

1:04:16 > 1:04:19Or watch your curtains! But it does need to be a very hot pan.

1:04:19 > 1:04:22Yep. It happens all the time.

1:04:22 > 1:04:24We have a window in the bistro

1:04:24 > 1:04:28where customers look in and see a bit of fire going on.

1:04:28 > 1:04:30They love it. My brother does it on purpose!

1:04:30 > 1:04:32Drops a bit of water in there, a bit more flame!

1:04:32 > 1:04:34The salad's coming together now.

1:04:34 > 1:04:37- We've got the segments there. - I'm going as quick as I can.

1:04:37 > 1:04:40- Olives.- There's your segments.

1:04:41 > 1:04:43There's your plate.

1:04:43 > 1:04:45That red mullet, very, very quick to cook, isn't it?

1:04:45 > 1:04:51Very quickly. And it's a nice, light dish.

1:04:51 > 1:04:55Here's the squid. That's as much as you need on the squid, James.

1:04:55 > 1:04:58Drop it in now.

1:04:58 > 1:04:59The squid goes in right at the last minute.

1:04:59 > 1:05:03- It'll start making the salad collapse if you're not careful.- Lovely.

1:05:03 > 1:05:05Give it a stir.

1:05:05 > 1:05:09- I'll get the fish slice. - Bring the Bagnoles over.

1:05:09 > 1:05:12- The fish.- That's fantastic, that glaze!

1:05:12 > 1:05:15- Can't wait to taste that. - Little bit of seasoning.

1:05:17 > 1:05:19Lift that over there.

1:05:20 > 1:05:23I'll put the red mullet there for you. There you go.

1:05:23 > 1:05:27Look at that. The colours are fantastic, aren't they?

1:05:27 > 1:05:28Where's this idea come from?

1:05:28 > 1:05:33- I must admit, I stole this from a two-star restaurant in the south of France.- You nicked it!

1:05:33 > 1:05:34Yes!

1:05:36 > 1:05:38So this one won't be in your book.

1:05:38 > 1:05:41- You're compiling a book.- I'm writing a book with my brother.

1:05:41 > 1:05:43We have a bistro cookbook.

1:05:43 > 1:05:45- It's dishes we like.- Yep.

1:05:45 > 1:05:49And a bit of a diary. Stories from the kitchen.

1:05:49 > 1:05:53- A coffee table book.- He's giving you a run for your money, Ains.

1:05:53 > 1:05:54- You've got a new one out. - Absolutely.

1:05:54 > 1:05:57I'll see you at the book signings, Chris!

1:05:57 > 1:06:02Just drizzle a bit of the Bagnoles around.

1:06:02 > 1:06:04Remind us what that is again?

1:06:04 > 1:06:08This is grilled red mullet with parsley, lemons, olives,

1:06:08 > 1:06:10and seared squid.

1:06:10 > 1:06:12Colour speaks for itself. Delicious.

1:06:17 > 1:06:20OK. I don't know about you guys. I'm having this one!

1:06:20 > 1:06:22There you go, Graeme.

1:06:22 > 1:06:25- Come over here.- I tell you I'm impoverished.

1:06:25 > 1:06:26I'm going to try everything first.

1:06:26 > 1:06:28Dive in. Dive in.

1:06:28 > 1:06:30I'll try a bit of salad first.

1:06:34 > 1:06:37The girls were just asking, Doreen was just saying,

1:06:37 > 1:06:39what type of fish would you go with this?

1:06:39 > 1:06:41- The squid salad is fantastic. - Any oily fish.

1:06:41 > 1:06:46You can go from the expensive end, sea bass,

1:06:46 > 1:06:50some tuna, but equally I use sardines, mackerel.

1:06:50 > 1:06:54Even some shellfish. Some grilled prawns, scallops.

1:06:54 > 1:06:58- It lends itself...- I love that... - It's very quick

1:06:58 > 1:07:02and if you cook at home for a dinner party, you lay the salad out. There's no fear on the dish.

1:07:02 > 1:07:07But don't put the dressing on too soon. And don't add the squid. It'll wilt it all down.

1:07:07 > 1:07:10- It's a last-minute job.- Have a taste. The glaze is delicious.

1:07:15 > 1:07:17That's perfect for summer dining.

1:07:17 > 1:07:19Both Kenny Atkinson and Jose Pizarro

1:07:19 > 1:07:24had to pull their socks up if they wanted a decent time on the omelette challenge leader board.

1:07:24 > 1:07:26But would they manage it? Let's find out.

1:07:26 > 1:07:30- Kenny, on the board with 34.76 seconds. Not bad.- It's not good.

1:07:30 > 1:07:34Not good, either! Jose, 28 seconds.

1:07:34 > 1:07:38With .88 over there. Not too bad. Middle of the board.

1:07:38 > 1:07:41I think you can go quicker. Let's put the clocks on the screens. Ready?

1:07:41 > 1:07:44Three egg omelettes to cook. Get your hands out!

1:07:44 > 1:07:45Three, two, one, go!

1:08:05 > 1:08:07GONG

1:08:13 > 1:08:15- GONG - At least I can eat one of them!

1:08:17 > 1:08:21- This one's still cooking! - It's quite nice in the middle!

1:08:21 > 1:08:23- Yeah.- With some ham, maybe, no?

1:08:25 > 1:08:27No amount of ham will be able to...

1:08:30 > 1:08:32Jose.

1:08:33 > 1:08:35Give it to me!

1:08:37 > 1:08:41You did it in 19.33 seconds but you've got no chance.

1:08:41 > 1:08:44I don't need a fork, I need a straw to eat that!

1:08:44 > 1:08:46- Anyway, Kenny.- Yeah.

1:08:47 > 1:08:49You've been practising, haven't you?

1:08:49 > 1:08:52- No, I haven't been practising. - You have!

1:08:52 > 1:08:55James, have you seen the price of eggs nowadays? I can't afford it!

1:08:57 > 1:09:01- You did it faster.- Right? - You beat Jose's time.

1:09:02 > 1:09:06- You did it in 27.96 seconds.- Good!

1:09:06 > 1:09:08Which sits you there.

1:09:13 > 1:09:16Unbelievable! Jose, I really did expect something better from you!

1:09:16 > 1:09:20Now, everybody wants something special to eat on their birthday.

1:09:20 > 1:09:22Luckily for me, on my 40th,

1:09:22 > 1:09:25I had Marcus Wareing cooking. It was pretty good!

1:09:25 > 1:09:29- Great to have you on the show.- Happy birthday, sir.- You, too, for yesterday.

1:09:29 > 1:09:31On the menu for you, we've got like a sharing plate.

1:09:31 > 1:09:34We're going to do a big main course and do suckling lamb.

1:09:34 > 1:09:36- This is from Wales.- Right.

1:09:36 > 1:09:40It's a beautiful part of the world and they produce some amazing meat.

1:09:40 > 1:09:42We just brought the leg today.

1:09:42 > 1:09:45We've got various different bits. It's a fantastic cut.

1:09:45 > 1:09:47- That's the size of it, really? - It is, it is.

1:09:47 > 1:09:49It's just fed on milk and grass.

1:09:49 > 1:09:55What we do is just take it off the bone and break it down into its natural lobes.

1:09:55 > 1:10:00So you basically cut it down into, well, not joints, but muscles.

1:10:00 > 1:10:03Yes. These water baths now are becoming very popular things in restaurants.

1:10:03 > 1:10:08- But also...- That's one you can buy online. Try it at home as well.

1:10:08 > 1:10:11- Absolutely.- And this is what you cooked one of them in.

1:10:11 > 1:10:16The neck, we cooked it in there at 64 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes.

1:10:16 > 1:10:20And then we take it out. We reduce this cream with these seasonings and herbs

1:10:20 > 1:10:23and we marinade and sous-vide, and that's a nice little flavour.

1:10:23 > 1:10:25- That will end up going onto the charcoal grill.- OK.

1:10:25 > 1:10:30It's just an added flavour. You could also use yogurt, something else.

1:10:30 > 1:10:33So in here, what we've got, James, is the rack.

1:10:33 > 1:10:36- We've marinaded that in olive oil. - Right.

1:10:36 > 1:10:39A little bit of herbs. Some seasoning, salt and pepper.

1:10:39 > 1:10:41The herbs are just rosemary, basil.

1:10:41 > 1:10:42The classic lamb herbs, really.

1:10:42 > 1:10:45You've been in London for a long time, now,

1:10:45 > 1:10:48and the restaurant itself has been around for quite a while.

1:10:48 > 1:10:52But you've seen a lot of things change in the UK, in terms of food.

1:10:52 > 1:10:55How different is it now to when you first started?

1:10:55 > 1:11:00Your restaurant has been voted number one in London for quite a few years now.

1:11:00 > 1:11:01Is there a lot more competition now?

1:11:01 > 1:11:03Competition is huge at the moment.

1:11:03 > 1:11:07There's more restaurants, more big-name chefs coming to London.

1:11:07 > 1:11:09Chefs from all over the world coming to London.

1:11:09 > 1:11:14But competition is good and the food scene is changing. People are more aware of food.

1:11:14 > 1:11:18Everyone's healthy eating. You have to keep up with the times.

1:11:18 > 1:11:20But how do you stay different?

1:11:20 > 1:11:24With all these people coming around, a lot more restaurants.

1:11:24 > 1:11:26How do you personally keep up the game?

1:11:26 > 1:11:28Stay in touch with your supplier.

1:11:28 > 1:11:30Stay in touch with the industry.

1:11:30 > 1:11:32And just literally stay in touch.

1:11:32 > 1:11:35You really do have to keep up.

1:11:35 > 1:11:37You have to be aware of what's going on around you.

1:11:37 > 1:11:39And just enjoy what you're doing.

1:11:39 > 1:11:41Be creative.

1:11:42 > 1:11:45OK, so I put a bit of butter and olive oil in there, James.

1:11:45 > 1:11:49We'll put in the courgettes and slowly cook those.

1:11:49 > 1:11:53So tell us about the restaurant where you are now.

1:11:53 > 1:11:57The restaurant you're in now, the two-star one,

1:11:57 > 1:11:59tell us about that.

1:11:59 > 1:12:02- That's in the Berkeley Hotel. - Shallots in there?- Yes.

1:12:02 > 1:12:07I'm in the Berkeley Hotel previously with my previous partner, Gordon.

1:12:07 > 1:12:10Now it's myself for the last three or four years.

1:12:10 > 1:12:13That's me. That's where I spend all of my time.

1:12:13 > 1:12:18And then my other restaurant, the Gilbert Scott, over in St Pancras Station,

1:12:18 > 1:12:21- in the Renaissance Hotel, which is an amazing place.- Yeah.

1:12:21 > 1:12:26- It is an amazing place. They've changed that so much.- It's an extraordinary building

1:12:26 > 1:12:29in an amazing location in London.

1:12:29 > 1:12:31I'm very privileged to be in there.

1:12:31 > 1:12:37We do a fantastic food offering from brunches, even an Olympic afternoon teas.

1:12:37 > 1:12:42Bacon sandwiches for everyone getting on the train, cos that's where the Javelin train goes,

1:12:42 > 1:12:47- from that station. So I'm looking forward to... The tills hopefully will be ringing!- Yeah!

1:12:48 > 1:12:50And as well as that, if that wasn't enough,

1:12:50 > 1:12:52you're also in training.

1:12:52 > 1:12:55Not for the Olympics, but for something probably equally as tough.

1:12:55 > 1:12:59- Before I get to that.- Go on.- These borlotti beans, soaked overnight.

1:12:59 > 1:13:0624 hours. And we put the onions, carrot, celery, herbs and garlic

1:13:06 > 1:13:08into the pan, cold chicken stock.

1:13:08 > 1:13:11Bring to the boil and cook them till they're soft.

1:13:11 > 1:13:12And salt in there.

1:13:12 > 1:13:14We just put these on top.

1:13:14 > 1:13:17- Allow them to cool right down. - Right on top of there.

1:13:17 > 1:13:21- Nicely mix those up.- I mentioned something as tough as the Olympics.

1:13:21 > 1:13:24- What's this about you boxing? - My Olympics!

1:13:24 > 1:13:27Some of the chefs from the staff in London

1:13:27 > 1:13:30have been invited to a boxing tournament.

1:13:30 > 1:13:34Which is going to be very, very interesting.

1:13:34 > 1:13:36It's called Rumble in the Kitchen.

1:13:36 > 1:13:40- You're welcome to join up. It's not too late, James!- No.- Nathan, you're similar weights!

1:13:40 > 1:13:42I'm not going against him!

1:13:42 > 1:13:46- You're getting there, James!- I think this is called mid-life crisis,

1:13:46 > 1:13:48getting into a boxing ring at 42!

1:13:48 > 1:13:50This is all in aid of charity?

1:13:50 > 1:13:52Mid-life crisis starts at 40!

1:13:52 > 1:13:54Does it? Thank you very much!

1:13:55 > 1:13:58This is charity. This is for Galvin's Chance.

1:13:58 > 1:14:02For underprivileged children who are struggling in life and who want a bit of help

1:14:02 > 1:14:04from professionals, really.

1:14:04 > 1:14:06It'll be good fun. I'm in training.

1:14:06 > 1:14:08It's the sport I did as a young boy.

1:14:08 > 1:14:12My brother was a boxer, my father also boxed at school.

1:14:12 > 1:14:14And I boxed for ten years.

1:14:14 > 1:14:16Do you know who you're up against yet?

1:14:16 > 1:14:18To be honest, I don't really care.

1:14:18 > 1:14:22- Really?- I don't really care. I'm looking forward to it

1:14:22 > 1:14:23and looking for a really good scrap!

1:14:23 > 1:14:28Do you know what it's like for a middle-aged guy to get into a ring and kick something out of a waiter?

1:14:28 > 1:14:29No, no I don't!

1:14:31 > 1:14:34I cannot tell you how much I'm looking forward to this!

1:14:35 > 1:14:39I nearly got into the boxing ring. Did you know that?

1:14:39 > 1:14:42They used to have a TV programme about people going up against somebody else

1:14:42 > 1:14:44who was also known in the boxing ring.

1:14:44 > 1:14:48I was due to go up against Darius.

1:14:48 > 1:14:50- What happened?- He pulled out!

1:14:50 > 1:14:53I was there training, all ready to go.

1:14:53 > 1:14:55- This is true!- Tell me the truth.

1:14:55 > 1:14:57- It didn't happen.- Didn't happen.

1:14:57 > 1:14:59This is the one cooked in milk, then.

1:14:59 > 1:15:01This is the milk, yeah.

1:15:01 > 1:15:05The olives here you're going to do a dressing with olives and...

1:15:05 > 1:15:08I'm going to put that onto the grill, James.

1:15:08 > 1:15:11A little bit of seasoning. I'll put the lettuce on, which is great.

1:15:11 > 1:15:14Chargrilling the lettuce. The French love cooking with lettuce.

1:15:14 > 1:15:17It's a thing we don't often do in the UK nowadays.

1:15:17 > 1:15:19No, but this is a lovely lettuce.

1:15:19 > 1:15:24Cooking a lettuce is a very odd thing to do, but it just goes on the grill quickly.

1:15:24 > 1:15:29You keep all of it, the centre, the heart, the outer leaves,

1:15:29 > 1:15:32just put it on as it is. You don't need to do much with it at all.

1:15:32 > 1:15:34They just sit on the grill.

1:15:34 > 1:15:37Take a bit of that. Can you dice up that cheese for me, James?

1:15:37 > 1:15:38Yes, I can do that.

1:15:38 > 1:15:43A little bit of the meat sauce goes into the beans.

1:15:43 > 1:15:46We'll add a bit of butter into there as well.

1:15:46 > 1:15:48What cheese have we got here? What's this?

1:15:48 > 1:15:51That's a ewes' milk cheese.

1:15:51 > 1:15:55From Wales as well. Dice it up, take off the rind.

1:15:55 > 1:15:58Just do some nice dice. Not diamonds, nice dice!

1:15:59 > 1:16:02And then all the little trimmings you can put into the borlotti beans

1:16:02 > 1:16:04and that'll make a light cheese sauce.

1:16:04 > 1:16:07- Right.- It's not a cheese sauce, as such,

1:16:07 > 1:16:11but it adds that beautiful mild flavour. It's delicious.

1:16:11 > 1:16:14It also adds a bit of thickness into the borlotti beans, as well.

1:16:14 > 1:16:16That cheese can go in there.

1:16:16 > 1:16:17It only takes a minute to go down.

1:16:17 > 1:16:21Then we've got a little salad of this cheese and some olives.

1:16:21 > 1:16:25You can put that into a bowl. Keep some of those herbs for me.

1:16:25 > 1:16:27Just to finish off, you're basically chargrilling.

1:16:27 > 1:16:30Normally with a rack of lamb, you'd have to flash that in the oven.

1:16:30 > 1:16:33- It's quite small.- It is. It's simple and very flavoursome.

1:16:33 > 1:16:36It doesn't really need a great deal of cooking at all.

1:16:36 > 1:16:39I'm just putting the rest of the juice in there, James.

1:16:42 > 1:16:46- Then we've got the cheese, some olives.- Into the bowl.

1:16:46 > 1:16:48- Some of the olives. The herbs? - All in.

1:16:48 > 1:16:50There you go. And some of this vinegar.

1:16:50 > 1:16:53White wine vinegar, olive oil, some seasoning.

1:16:53 > 1:16:56Are we behind? You're rushing, James! Are we behind?

1:16:56 > 1:17:01- No, it's fine!- It's OK, it's Thursday. It's a slow day today.

1:17:03 > 1:17:07So, what was the question again? You were rushing around and sidetracked me.

1:17:07 > 1:17:10So what's next for Marcus Wareing?

1:17:10 > 1:17:12The biggest thing for me at the moment is the Olympics.

1:17:12 > 1:17:15It's huge. Especially where the Gilbert Scott is.

1:17:15 > 1:17:17We've got to be ready for that.

1:17:17 > 1:17:21We're about to start a cookbook at the Gilbert Scott - British Food.

1:17:21 > 1:17:24Which we'll be starting later on after that.

1:17:24 > 1:17:26There you go.

1:17:26 > 1:17:31- And that's enough, I think!- I think we'll be saying Marcus Wareing, the three-star Michelin chef!

1:17:31 > 1:17:34- Not my choice!- Well, you deserve it. You deserve it.

1:17:34 > 1:17:38Cos the food, you can see for yourself, it's just so...

1:17:38 > 1:17:41- Great. Thanks, James. - The beans are on.

1:17:41 > 1:17:43You can take those off.

1:17:43 > 1:17:45Leave the garlic in.

1:17:45 > 1:17:49You can smell the herbs coming through and also the cheese.

1:17:50 > 1:17:52And basically...

1:17:54 > 1:17:56Cut everything up into small pieces.

1:17:58 > 1:18:01- This is like a sharing plate. - This is the sharing plate.

1:18:01 > 1:18:03Smells delicious!

1:18:03 > 1:18:06The point of the water bath is to keep everything at a nice temperature.

1:18:06 > 1:18:10It really does keep everything nice and pink.

1:18:10 > 1:18:14It doesn't overcook. It's great for restaurants. You can keep it at that temperature.

1:18:14 > 1:18:18You're classically trained but still embracing modern techniques as well.

1:18:18 > 1:18:22I think we do, James. The younger generation are excited at new things.

1:18:22 > 1:18:24We're excited, and why not?

1:18:24 > 1:18:25It works, it's delicious.

1:18:25 > 1:18:28Lettuce on there, like so.

1:18:30 > 1:18:33And then just these over the top.

1:18:33 > 1:18:36This is not just a main course for you, James.

1:18:36 > 1:18:39This is for everyone! This is a sharing platter!

1:18:39 > 1:18:42- A sharing platter. Looks delicious. - There we go.

1:18:42 > 1:18:43Tell us what that is again?

1:18:43 > 1:18:47That is milk-fed lamb from Wales.

1:18:47 > 1:18:49With borlotti beans and chargrilled lettuce.

1:18:49 > 1:18:52Cooked by one of the best chefs in the country. Done!

1:18:57 > 1:19:00Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous plate of food.

1:19:00 > 1:19:02You get to dive in.

1:19:02 > 1:19:06- Have a seat over here.- Thank you. - Dive in. I don't know where you'll start, but dive in!

1:19:06 > 1:19:08Just hit it from all sides.

1:19:08 > 1:19:12So you cut each one down. You've got the neck in there, slowly cooked.

1:19:12 > 1:19:14The neck, the rack, the leg, the shoulder.

1:19:14 > 1:19:15All little bits and pieces there.

1:19:15 > 1:19:18Could people buy that from somewhere? It's not readily available.

1:19:18 > 1:19:22I think in great farmers' markets out of town you'll find great lamb.

1:19:22 > 1:19:25You can buy a nice leg of lamb, do exactly the same,

1:19:25 > 1:19:29and break it down. You could even put it into a pot of nice stock and slowly simmer it.

1:19:29 > 1:19:32You don't have to have the water bath. It's a great way of cooking.

1:19:32 > 1:19:33I'm not going to get any of this!

1:19:38 > 1:19:40That really was a great plate of food.

1:19:40 > 1:19:44Luckily, when Patsy Palmer faced her Food Heaven or Food Hell,

1:19:44 > 1:19:48I could offer her more than just a bacon sarnie from the caff on Albert Square.

1:19:48 > 1:19:51But would she get something she likes to eat, or something she'd rather not?

1:19:51 > 1:19:53Take a look at this.

1:19:53 > 1:19:58Patsy, your version of food heaven would be these. Everybody's favourite ingredient, I think.

1:19:58 > 1:20:01Lovely strawberries, bang in season.

1:20:01 > 1:20:04That could be transformed into a mille feuille, some puff pastry,

1:20:04 > 1:20:09cream, vanilla, a simple strawberry sauce to go with it.

1:20:09 > 1:20:12A strawberry and cream twist. Classic French dish.

1:20:12 > 1:20:15Alternatively, the dreaded food hell.

1:20:15 > 1:20:18Over here, smoked salmon.

1:20:18 > 1:20:22It's beautiful. Thinly sliced, topped with a tart made with watercress.

1:20:22 > 1:20:25We've got some watercress pesto we're going to make.

1:20:25 > 1:20:28Creme fraiche, egg yolk, some walnuts in there.

1:20:28 > 1:20:31A watercress salad. Spinach in the bottom as well.

1:20:31 > 1:20:33How do you think the viewers have voted?

1:20:33 > 1:20:37- Maybe the strawberries after the cake.- The strawberries?

1:20:37 > 1:20:41Well, 56% of the votes, so quite a tight one today,

1:20:41 > 1:20:46went with your expression on the face when you tried that pigeon for the first time,

1:20:46 > 1:20:48they want it again! They want to see you eat salmon!

1:20:48 > 1:20:52Sorry about that! I thought everybody would choose strawberries.

1:20:52 > 1:20:54Must be the weather!

1:20:54 > 1:20:57We'll lose our strawberries there.

1:20:57 > 1:20:59Now, for this little tartlet.

1:20:59 > 1:21:01- We'll use the puff pastry anyway. - OK.

1:21:01 > 1:21:03This is all butter puff pastry.

1:21:03 > 1:21:05You need to get all butter puff pastry nowadays.

1:21:05 > 1:21:07Much better flavour. Really nice texture.

1:21:07 > 1:21:11- If you can make me the filling. - Shall I wilt this?

1:21:11 > 1:21:13Yes, wilt that and let it go cold.

1:21:13 > 1:21:15There's an egg yolk as well to put in there.

1:21:15 > 1:21:19I'm going to make a tartlet here. I'll make a decent-sized one.

1:21:19 > 1:21:22I don't mind, honestly, after what I've eaten this morning.

1:21:22 > 1:21:25I've got puff pastry here. We can lose that to one side.

1:21:25 > 1:21:30What we can do, instead of - when I was at college -

1:21:30 > 1:21:33when he came to judge my end of year at college!

1:21:33 > 1:21:35You've come a long way since then!

1:21:35 > 1:21:36About 250 miles!

1:21:36 > 1:21:38Thanks very much(!)

1:21:38 > 1:21:40We've got our puff pastry here.

1:21:40 > 1:21:42You can take another piece of puff pastry and place it on top.

1:21:42 > 1:21:45But the best way to do that is just grab a knife.

1:21:45 > 1:21:49And then with your finger, just press it into the pastry like that.

1:21:49 > 1:21:53And all you're doing, your finger is a little gauge,

1:21:53 > 1:21:54to see how thick you want the frame.

1:21:54 > 1:21:56Woodworkers used to do it like that.

1:21:56 > 1:22:00- Did they?- When they're cutting a piece of wood, they mark it like that.

1:22:00 > 1:22:03- Used to?- I know about these things.

1:22:03 > 1:22:05That's where rumours are invented!

1:22:05 > 1:22:09- Chalk lines and things like that. - Do you like nutmeg?- Mm. - Plenty of nutmeg.

1:22:09 > 1:22:12Chalk was in a quarry when he was a kid!

1:22:12 > 1:22:16So we've got our puff pastry. We need to leave this to rest

1:22:16 > 1:22:17and then bake it in the oven.

1:22:17 > 1:22:22Leave it to rest in the fridge. Bake it in the oven and we've got...

1:22:22 > 1:22:24Brian's wilting my spinach.

1:22:24 > 1:22:26If you can thinly slice me this.

1:22:26 > 1:22:28This stuff is fantastic.

1:22:28 > 1:22:31This comes... It's a company called Cerika.

1:22:31 > 1:22:35They're based up near Perth.

1:22:35 > 1:22:36In Scotland.

1:22:36 > 1:22:38And it is delicious.

1:22:38 > 1:22:41But there are two different ways of curing smoked salmon.

1:22:41 > 1:22:45There's a wet cure, which is traditional now which a lot of people do now,

1:22:45 > 1:22:48or there's a dry cure, which is like a rub they put on it.

1:22:48 > 1:22:50And there's two ways to cook it.

1:22:50 > 1:22:52Or, rather, to smoke it.

1:22:52 > 1:22:56There's a cold smoke where you end up with salmon like this,

1:22:56 > 1:22:59or there's a hot smoke which cooks the salmon while it's cooking.

1:22:59 > 1:23:03Different texture, different flavour, but I think that tastes fantastic.

1:23:03 > 1:23:05I won't let you taste it at this point. Brian?

1:23:05 > 1:23:08- Thank you, Chef!- Do me a few more slices of that. That would be great.

1:23:08 > 1:23:12- You should say she can taste it just as it is.- Not yet! Not yet!

1:23:12 > 1:23:14Right. We've got here... Have you seasoned this?

1:23:14 > 1:23:16- No.- A bit of seasoning.

1:23:16 > 1:23:19It's a bit like his omelette, you see?

1:23:19 > 1:23:21I put seasoning in my omelette!

1:23:21 > 1:23:25- If you want me to season, I can put a touch of soy!- Yeah!

1:23:25 > 1:23:27A little bit of this. How we doing, Brian?

1:23:27 > 1:23:29Straight into there.

1:23:29 > 1:23:32Now, for our little tartlet here.

1:23:33 > 1:23:36- Give me the tongs.- Smells delicious.

1:23:36 > 1:23:37Thanks. So we've got our spinach.

1:23:37 > 1:23:41If you can make me a little salad, Brian, with the watercress, that would be great.

1:23:41 > 1:23:44- These nuts?- Yep, nuts, watercress, dressing, that would be great.

1:23:44 > 1:23:46In we go with the spinach.

1:23:46 > 1:23:47Over the top.

1:23:47 > 1:23:49How we doing? Nick?

1:23:49 > 1:23:51- Sliced the salmon?- It's ready to go.

1:23:51 > 1:23:54When you cook salmon, it takes on a whole different flavour.

1:23:54 > 1:23:56We're just going to grab our salmon.

1:23:56 > 1:23:59These nice pieces of smoked salmon.

1:23:59 > 1:24:00You can chargrill this stuff.

1:24:00 > 1:24:02You can pan fry it.

1:24:02 > 1:24:05It takes on a whole different flavour.

1:24:05 > 1:24:09Looks delicious. Grilling it's not too strong.

1:24:09 > 1:24:11Finish in the oven.

1:24:11 > 1:24:14Straight in. That's going to cook.

1:24:14 > 1:24:16I thought we'd do that with watercress pesto.

1:24:16 > 1:24:21Watercress. Simple. It's more like an oil, really.

1:24:21 > 1:24:24Bit more, actually.

1:24:24 > 1:24:26Use it all. In with the watercress.

1:24:26 > 1:24:28Instead of using pine nuts, a few walnuts.

1:24:28 > 1:24:30Incorporate that with the sauce.

1:24:33 > 1:24:36Did he take the rubber band off? I know Brian!

1:24:36 > 1:24:41- It's working it out already! - Just checking!

1:24:41 > 1:24:43Just took you 35 years to work that one out, yeah?

1:24:43 > 1:24:45Exactly! There you go.

1:24:45 > 1:24:47So plenty of salt.

1:24:47 > 1:24:50A bit of black pepper, cos obviously it's quite peppery anyway.

1:24:50 > 1:24:51And then some oil.

1:24:51 > 1:24:54I'll just give this a quick blitz up.

1:24:54 > 1:24:58It's quite strong, obviously, watercress.

1:24:58 > 1:25:00Just give it a quick blitz.

1:25:01 > 1:25:02You'll get a real rich pesto.

1:25:02 > 1:25:06If you want to change the colour of this, you can make it two or three hours beforehand

1:25:06 > 1:25:08and it'll go much greener.

1:25:08 > 1:25:12Alternatively, you can blanch the watercress as well.

1:25:12 > 1:25:13But this is fantastic.

1:25:13 > 1:25:16I know you're not a great lover of smoked salmon...

1:25:16 > 1:25:18I'm sure I will be in a minute!

1:25:18 > 1:25:22- But salmon in general...- I like salmon, but just not that.

1:25:22 > 1:25:25I'll show you the texture of that. That's what we're looking for.

1:25:25 > 1:25:28It's exactly the same as a basil texture.

1:25:28 > 1:25:30If you want it darker, just blanch the leaves.

1:25:30 > 1:25:34- Your pesto is made of watercress? - No, pesto is made with basil.- OK.

1:25:34 > 1:25:37- Basil!- Basil!- Basil!

1:25:37 > 1:25:39So we've got our salmon in there.

1:25:39 > 1:25:40Watercress in here?

1:25:40 > 1:25:43Watercress, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.

1:25:43 > 1:25:45Simple little salad. Walnuts in there.

1:25:45 > 1:25:47Nice little dish. Now, this...

1:25:49 > 1:25:51As you can see, it's cooked.

1:25:51 > 1:25:54Turn that off.

1:25:54 > 1:25:56If I lift that off...

1:25:56 > 1:25:59And it's cooked salmon.

1:25:59 > 1:26:00And it looks the same.

1:26:00 > 1:26:03- Delicious!- That's the problem I've got with it.

1:26:03 > 1:26:05The problem is it looks the same?

1:26:05 > 1:26:07- Yeah.- Look, it's gone all pinky.

1:26:07 > 1:26:09- It's just...- He's going to cover it up now, anyway!

1:26:09 > 1:26:12- Yes!- Good. Hide it, like the Brussels in the mash!

1:26:12 > 1:26:15A little bit of the old watercress pesto.

1:26:17 > 1:26:20Look at that. Then some of the old salad.

1:26:22 > 1:26:25On the top. See that?

1:26:26 > 1:26:27Be honest, it's not bad, that, is it?

1:26:27 > 1:26:29It looks fabulous.

1:26:29 > 1:26:32Grab the irons. Dive into that.

1:26:32 > 1:26:33Tell us what you think.

1:26:33 > 1:26:35- OK.- Taste the salmon, huh?

1:26:35 > 1:26:38- Yeah, I will.- Not convinced with this, are you?- No, but I'll try it.

1:26:42 > 1:26:45- Let me take a good bit of the salmon.- Good girl.- Good bit of salmon.

1:26:45 > 1:26:48- You can do it, Patsy. Come on. - Yeah, I can do it.

1:26:48 > 1:26:52- It's a totally different texture when it's heated up.- Pan fry, chargrill, wonderful.

1:26:52 > 1:26:55I know that I'm just going to go, "Mmm".

1:27:00 > 1:27:02Say something!

1:27:03 > 1:27:05It's nice.

1:27:07 > 1:27:09She's an actress!

1:27:09 > 1:27:11It is nice. It is really nice.

1:27:13 > 1:27:16It's delicious, that. You probably won't get to eat any of this!

1:27:16 > 1:27:19- Brian, do you want some wine?- Mmm!

1:27:19 > 1:27:21- It could grow on me.- I'll have one.

1:27:21 > 1:27:22Hang on to that.

1:27:22 > 1:27:24What do you reckon?

1:27:24 > 1:27:28- I think it's nice cos it's not oversmoked.- Pastry's lovely.

1:27:28 > 1:27:31Cooking the salmon just changes it.

1:27:31 > 1:27:33Cooking it changes it so, so much.

1:27:33 > 1:27:36If you put a bit of filo in it, just thinly sliced filo,

1:27:36 > 1:27:38you can change the base again.

1:27:38 > 1:27:40- Yes, thanks for that. - That wine's nice.

1:27:40 > 1:27:42- Sorry?- The wine's big.

1:27:43 > 1:27:45I'm very grateful

1:27:45 > 1:27:47that you've cooked that.

1:27:47 > 1:27:49- Gone to the trouble.- The wine's excellent. 5.99!

1:27:49 > 1:27:54- At least you can say you've tasted it.- Exactly. It's OK, but it's never been my kind of...

1:27:54 > 1:27:57- You're not convinced?- Not really, but thank you very much.

1:27:57 > 1:27:59- No problem.- It was absolutely fabulous.

1:27:59 > 1:28:02It is my birthday, but we'll just throw it away! Why not?

1:28:07 > 1:28:09Sorry, Patsy, I did do my best.

1:28:09 > 1:28:12That's all we've got time for on today's Best Bites.

1:28:12 > 1:28:15If you'd like to have a go at any of the fantastic recipes you've seen on today's show,

1:28:15 > 1:28:19you'll find them all on our website, BBC.co.uk/recipes.

1:28:19 > 1:28:23There are plenty on there to tantalise your taste buds

1:28:23 > 1:28:26so have a great week and I look forward to seeing you very soon!

1:28:27 > 1:28:30Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd