0:00:02 > 0:00:03You're looking forward to some cooking
0:00:03 > 0:00:07but which top chef are you going to turn to for inspiration today?
0:00:07 > 0:00:09Well, we've got all your favourites here.
0:00:09 > 0:00:12The nation's top TV chefs all in one place
0:00:12 > 0:00:14on The A To Z Of TV Cooking.
0:00:15 > 0:00:19Today, we're looking at things linked to the letter D.
0:00:34 > 0:00:40D is for devilled kidneys and to tempt you, the Two Fat Ladies.
0:00:40 > 0:00:44I've been coring my kidneys to do devilled kidneys,
0:00:44 > 0:00:47which means they're in a very hot sauce
0:00:47 > 0:00:51and they're excellent, you know, for robust sort of hunting people
0:00:51 > 0:00:55who've probably been out for a little walk before breakfast
0:00:55 > 0:00:59and they've come in and they've got to get all ready for the ride.
0:00:59 > 0:01:03And it's a very good thing to devil quite a lot of things,
0:01:03 > 0:01:05like turkey's eggs -
0:01:05 > 0:01:09- they're much better when they're devilled, I think.- Mm.
0:01:09 > 0:01:12These are fine lambs' kidneys,
0:01:12 > 0:01:15which are probably the best thing to have for breakfast, I think,
0:01:15 > 0:01:17because the calves' ones are too big.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21Now, if some of you are worried about coring the kidney,
0:01:21 > 0:01:24which is taking out the white part in the middle -
0:01:24 > 0:01:28some people say they don't know how to do it but it is very easy.
0:01:28 > 0:01:33If you cut it down the middle and skin it...
0:01:36 > 0:01:38then hold the skin firmly
0:01:38 > 0:01:42and press the knife against that white core,
0:01:42 > 0:01:45it'll just come out all in one piece.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48But you do need a very good sharp little knife.
0:01:55 > 0:01:56Couldn't be better, you see. Totally cored.
0:01:58 > 0:02:02Now, then, we want to make sauce, the devilled sauce.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04The devil's heart!
0:02:04 > 0:02:08Most of these are hot ingredients, except for the mushroom ketchup.
0:02:08 > 0:02:13Put a slurp of that in, then about that of mustard,
0:02:13 > 0:02:17depending, really, on your own taste.
0:02:17 > 0:02:19This is cayenne pepper - very hot.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21So I'll just put a pinch in.
0:02:23 > 0:02:27A good shake of dear old Worcester sauce.
0:02:29 > 0:02:31A touch of Tabasco.
0:02:31 > 0:02:36You see, it's going to blow the morning cobwebs away.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- Yes!- And some melted butter.
0:02:40 > 0:02:44- Can I use the cooker?- Absolutely. I'll go over to the Aga.
0:02:44 > 0:02:49- Can you pop those in the oven to keep them warm?- They'll go on the top.- They won't spoil?- No, no.
0:02:49 > 0:02:50Right.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03Now I'm going to cook my kidneys, or rather, devil them, as they say.
0:03:06 > 0:03:12We want a little oil just to stop any form of sticking.
0:03:12 > 0:03:14And then we want butter.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21There we are. I think we can start.
0:03:25 > 0:03:27You want to get them just bubbling,
0:03:27 > 0:03:29but for heaven's sake, no overcooking.
0:03:29 > 0:03:33Always see a little trace of blood left before you start
0:03:33 > 0:03:35because you must remember, when we put the sauce on,
0:03:35 > 0:03:37it's going to cook a little more.
0:03:37 > 0:03:41If you overcook them, what you get is leather.
0:03:41 > 0:03:44If you overcook anything, really.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47People who ask for well done steaks in hotels get what they deserve.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- You get an old boot, don't you? - Mm.
0:03:55 > 0:03:59Now they're cooked a little bit, I'll put some proper salt and pepper on.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05It's high time to put the devilled sauce in.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17- Oh! - THEY INHALE DEEPLY
0:04:17 > 0:04:19- Ah!- Not Bisto!
0:04:21 > 0:04:23What a smell - wonderful!
0:04:24 > 0:04:31So you coat the kidneys all over.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34There we are. Now, that's a dainty dish
0:04:34 > 0:04:40and just to make it look pretty, as usual, some sprinkled parsley.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44There you are - devilled kidneys.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48And now dumplings.
0:04:48 > 0:04:50They're great with stews and casseroles
0:04:50 > 0:04:52but Rachel Khoo has got another way to cook them -
0:04:52 > 0:04:54with a traditional chicken soup.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59When I first moved to Paris, I didn't know anybody.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03Sometimes I'd feel a bit lonely and I'd want something comforting
0:05:03 > 0:05:06and I would make this chicken dumpling soup,
0:05:06 > 0:05:08like my grandma in Austria used to make for me when I was little.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12I'm going to start off with my chicken stock.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17I'm using homemade but you could always use a good-quality stock cube.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21Just don't tell the Parisians.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24That goes on there. And I'm going to peel two carrots.
0:05:26 > 0:05:30While my carrots flavour the stock, it's on to the dumplings.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33I'm using a traditional French shape for dumplings which they call quenelle.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36You need five slices of white bread.
0:05:36 > 0:05:39Cut the crusts off because they don't taste nice in your dumplings.
0:05:39 > 0:05:45If you really wanted to, you could use whole-wheat bread.
0:05:46 > 0:05:48But I wouldn't, actually,
0:05:48 > 0:05:51because what's nice about this recipe, by using white bread,
0:05:51 > 0:05:52your dumplings are really light.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58Add your bread to a blender along with 200g of chicken breast,
0:05:58 > 0:06:00one whole egg and one egg yolk.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04100ml of single cream.
0:06:04 > 0:06:07Nutmeg for seasoning.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09This is real home cooking.
0:06:09 > 0:06:15I mean, you're very unlikely to see quenelles in a restaurant
0:06:15 > 0:06:18and if you they do quenelles, they tend to be baked and quite heavy
0:06:18 > 0:06:21with a rich kind of white sauce,
0:06:21 > 0:06:25whereas this is actually quite light because you're having it in a soup.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27It feels really nourishing.
0:06:27 > 0:06:31It's one of these dishes, if you're feeling poorly, you would have this.
0:06:32 > 0:06:35Add some salt. A good two pinches.
0:06:36 > 0:06:38Black pepper.
0:06:38 > 0:06:42And then we'll plug this in.
0:06:42 > 0:06:45If I can find my plug.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48I've like got only one socket in this apartment.
0:06:48 > 0:06:49Hooray!
0:06:49 > 0:06:51All right.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57You want to blend it until it's a paste.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03Perfect.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06While that's coming to a boil, I'm going to chop up the mushrooms.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12All right, that has come to a boil. I'm going to turn it down.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19To make a quenelle you have a spoon
0:07:19 > 0:07:21and then you just rock it back and forth.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24Like that. Just get a nice shape.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26You don't have to make perfect dumplings.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28This is just a way of portioning it
0:07:28 > 0:07:31because you want them roughly the same size so they cook evenly.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35Drop your dumplings into the soup.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38They would be ready in less than five minutes.
0:07:38 > 0:07:42A minute before they're finished, throw in the mushrooms.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46I like my mushrooms when they still have a bit of a bite to them.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49All you need now is some chopped parsley.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52The dumplings have risen to the top, so you know they're cooked.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55They're kind of trying to come out.
0:07:55 > 0:07:56Crazy.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59And that is ready to eat.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04You could serve these quenelles on their own with a bechamel sauce
0:08:04 > 0:08:07or, like the French, with a tomato sauce.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10Mm! I love the smell of this.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13It reminds me of my early days in Paris
0:08:13 > 0:08:15when I was all on my own!
0:08:16 > 0:08:18And had no friends!
0:08:18 > 0:08:21Apart from French guys who were trying to chat me up.
0:08:21 > 0:08:23Garnish with a bit of parsley on top.
0:08:23 > 0:08:29A steaming bowl of chicken dumpling soup. Homage to my grandma.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36This is my light take on the classic quenelle of the Lyon Alp region
0:08:36 > 0:08:37and I love it.
0:08:41 > 0:08:44Now, D is for dessert and we've got two for you today.
0:08:44 > 0:08:46First up, we've got Rick Stein in the Lake District
0:08:46 > 0:08:49where he's tracking down a dish made of damsons.
0:08:52 > 0:08:57When the blossoms on the trees in the Lyth Valley come out,
0:08:57 > 0:09:01it's time for Damson Day, a celebration of this ancient fruit.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05I was lucky enough to meet local journalist Gillian Cowburn,
0:09:05 > 0:09:07who's passionate about Lake District food.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10Local food in this area is so wonderful
0:09:10 > 0:09:14but this damson symbolises, really symbolises,
0:09:14 > 0:09:17the success of this county,
0:09:17 > 0:09:20fighting back after foot and mouth and goodness knows what.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23In a way, I've felt this talking to a lot of people,
0:09:23 > 0:09:26but foot and mouth has almost been a blessing in disguise.
0:09:26 > 0:09:28- Yes.- Do you know what I mean? - Yes, it has.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32It was just such a disaster but everybody's said, "We're going to fight back."
0:09:32 > 0:09:34They are. The bigger the better.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37And I think because people want to know where their food's coming from.
0:09:37 > 0:09:42And we've got these fantastic farmer's markets in this area
0:09:42 > 0:09:44and people are buying stuff from them.
0:09:44 > 0:09:46It's not just playing at it.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51Word gets round and people are just so enthusiastic about local food.
0:09:51 > 0:09:54- Can I give you these goodies? - Well, you certainly can.
0:09:54 > 0:09:56- That's lovely.- That's a damson and redcurrant terrine.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- It's made with red wine. - Sounds good. Thank you very much.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03- OK. And there's a pie there for you, as well.- Damsons?
0:10:03 > 0:10:07That's cranberries, actually, but it's got pork and damson pate in the bottom.
0:10:07 > 0:10:08- So this is it?- This is the one.
0:10:08 > 0:10:15- This is the wonderful damson gumbo made by Val Harrison.- You make it? - I do.- I think I'd better try some.
0:10:15 > 0:10:17- Can we?- Yes, you can. - That's really nice.
0:10:21 > 0:10:24- That's lovely.- Thank you very much. - I'll just pop that in there.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28It's a bit like... In Spain, they have this thing called quince paste, membrillo.
0:10:28 > 0:10:31It would go really well with hard cheese, that would.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34- Would you like it in a bag?- No, I'll just have it in my basket, thanks.
0:10:34 > 0:10:36- Thank you very much. - Don't bother about the 10p.
0:10:36 > 0:10:40- Are you sure? Thank you.- Give it to the Damson Association.- Right.
0:10:40 > 0:10:42OK! Thank you.
0:10:42 > 0:10:45- Yes? - WOMAN SPEAKS, INDISTINCT
0:10:45 > 0:10:46I'd be delighted to. Would you have...?
0:10:46 > 0:10:50'It was a charmingly small affair, just as it should be.
0:10:50 > 0:10:53'No people selling cars or caravans
0:10:53 > 0:10:56'and everyone was very friendly to me and to Chalky.'
0:10:56 > 0:11:00I was just thinking the other day that they used to have...
0:11:00 > 0:11:02The Tamar valley used to be famous for cherries
0:11:02 > 0:11:05and why is it not any more?
0:11:05 > 0:11:07There are a few left
0:11:07 > 0:11:10but going to Crosthwaite there with the damsons all in blossom,
0:11:10 > 0:11:14and the whole festival built round those damsons,
0:11:14 > 0:11:16you just think we need to revive these traditions
0:11:16 > 0:11:19because it's so much part of our life
0:11:19 > 0:11:21and it's such an enrichment of our life
0:11:21 > 0:11:24and everything about that day was a delight.
0:11:24 > 0:11:26Everybody we met, the enthusiasm,
0:11:26 > 0:11:32the commitment of all the local people to reviving an old sort of custom like that,
0:11:32 > 0:11:33I just love it.
0:11:36 > 0:11:40This is a dish that brings out the astringency of damsons.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43You pour lots of damsons into a pie dish
0:11:43 > 0:11:45and sprinkle well with sugar.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47It's called damson cobbler.
0:11:47 > 0:11:52You sift flour, baking powder, sugar and salt into a bowl.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56It's always good to put some air into pastry like this.
0:11:56 > 0:11:57It lightens it.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01Next you take some ice-cold butter, cut up,
0:12:01 > 0:12:04and work it with your fingertips into the flour
0:12:04 > 0:12:07till you have the consistency of Demerara sugar.
0:12:07 > 0:12:10Now you beat an egg into buttermilk.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13This gives the pastry a pleasing sourness
0:12:13 > 0:12:17and you add to this to the flour mix and work it all together
0:12:17 > 0:12:19with a spoon.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22Then you dob the paste on top of the damsons.
0:12:22 > 0:12:24You don't need to cover the whole lot perfectly
0:12:24 > 0:12:29because when it goes into the oven, these little balls will swell up,
0:12:29 > 0:12:33join together and give the crust a pleasing pattern.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37Next, sprinkle the top with flaked almonds
0:12:37 > 0:12:40and then scatter a good quantity of caster sugar over the top.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44Don't think I'm using too much sugar in this dish -
0:12:44 > 0:12:47those damsons are extremely tart.
0:12:47 > 0:12:52Having baked the cobbler in a moderate oven for 30 to 35 minutes,
0:12:52 > 0:12:57bring it out and serve it, all bubbling and delightful.
0:12:57 > 0:13:01And then I think a lick of cream or a ladleful of custard
0:13:01 > 0:13:04would be absolutely ideal.
0:13:07 > 0:13:08Thanks, Rick.
0:13:08 > 0:13:10Dessert number two is a recipe for diplomat pudding,
0:13:10 > 0:13:13which, as Michel Roux explains, is
0:13:13 > 0:13:16a French take on the classic English bread and butter pudding.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24This is a French version of a bread and butter pudding
0:13:24 > 0:13:25but with a difference
0:13:25 > 0:13:28and what's great is that you can actually use bread that isn't fresh,
0:13:28 > 0:13:31bread that's stale, that would otherwise end up in the bin.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33So to start off we need to remove the crust.
0:13:40 > 0:13:42There we go.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45You can use almost any combination of breads
0:13:45 > 0:13:47as they'll all add flavour and texture.
0:13:47 > 0:13:51Slice them into cubes and scatter them on a baking tray.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56So here we are with our bread
0:13:56 > 0:13:58and we need to dust it a little bit with icing sugar.
0:13:59 > 0:14:00Here we go.
0:14:01 > 0:14:07And this is just to give it a lovely coating, a crunchy coating that will caramelise in the oven.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10So we're making sweet croutons, in effect.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15While the croutons are crisping up, start to make the custard filling
0:14:15 > 0:14:18with egg, sugar and single cream.
0:14:22 > 0:14:25I'd rather use single cream than double.
0:14:25 > 0:14:28Double cream tends to be a little bit too heavy, a bit too rich.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32I remember as a young apprentice, 16 years old, being shown
0:14:32 > 0:14:34how to make this
0:14:34 > 0:14:39and I remember the very first day that I walked past the pastry shop after work
0:14:39 > 0:14:43and I saw my puddings, good enough to be sold in the pastry shop
0:14:43 > 0:14:46and that filled me with pride.
0:14:47 > 0:14:50The secret ingredient for this dish is vanilla.
0:14:50 > 0:14:55Vanilla is very expensive but it's very worthwhile.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57You get so much flavour out of it, so much satisfaction.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02And I love the idea of putting a very expensive ingredient like vanilla
0:15:02 > 0:15:06with such a humble and cheap ingredient as bread.
0:15:07 > 0:15:10Put a handful of raisins and sultanas in a pan.
0:15:10 > 0:15:15Cover them in water and put them on to a gentle heat to rehydrate.
0:15:15 > 0:15:19They'll plump up and become succulent.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21Then drain them and cover them in dark rum.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26These little packets of sweetness will be the bridging texture
0:15:26 > 0:15:28between the custard and the bread.
0:15:29 > 0:15:34Rum and raisin and vanilla - I mean, is there a better combination?
0:15:34 > 0:15:35I don't think so.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39And there they are.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42Lightly toasted. And that smells gorgeous.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44You can smell the yeast, the wild yeast in there,
0:15:44 > 0:15:49an almost brioche-like smell from my bread - it's beautiful.
0:15:49 > 0:15:51Then it's time to put the ingredients together.
0:15:51 > 0:15:54Into some buttered ramekins, layer the croutons and the raisins.
0:15:54 > 0:15:58It's as simple as that. It really is very simple.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03We ladle them into here.
0:16:04 > 0:16:07And you can make them individual like this in ramekins
0:16:07 > 0:16:11or you could put it in a terrine and then take slices off it.
0:16:11 > 0:16:16But I think these little individual moulds look really cute.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21Unlike a classic British bread and butter pudding,
0:16:21 > 0:16:22don't put these straight in the oven.
0:16:22 > 0:16:25Instead, steam them in a bain-marie.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31Cover them with buttered foil and they're ready for the oven.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34On a medium heat, they'll take half an hour.
0:16:35 > 0:16:38Right, I think these puddings must be ready by now.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42You can't take them out of the mould while they're piping hot.
0:16:42 > 0:16:44They need to rest for five or ten minutes
0:16:44 > 0:16:47because if you were to take them out of the mould now,
0:16:47 > 0:16:49they would crack and it wouldn't look nice.
0:16:49 > 0:16:54While they cool, make an apricot glaze for the top of the puddings.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57Melt a large spoonful of jam in a dash of water
0:16:57 > 0:16:59until it turns into a sticky liquid.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03The jam's nearly melted.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07At last it's time to reveal the diplomat puddings.
0:17:09 > 0:17:11Wow!
0:17:11 > 0:17:16All it needs now is just a little brush with the apricot jam on top.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20I find that these are at their best when they're just warm -
0:17:20 > 0:17:23not cold, definitely not fridge cold.
0:17:24 > 0:17:31Diplomat pudding made with the best artisan bread you can find.
0:17:34 > 0:17:36Ah, this looks beautiful.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39Mm!
0:17:39 > 0:17:41It's totally, totally delicious.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43You can taste the bread, you can taste the egg
0:17:43 > 0:17:46and the rum, the vanilla - it's beautiful.
0:17:46 > 0:17:49Well, that's all the cooking we've got time for today.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52A big thank you to all our wonderful chefs
0:17:52 > 0:17:54and please make sure you join me again
0:17:54 > 0:17:58for more magical cookery moments here on the A To Z Of TV Cooking.