0:00:03 > 0:00:04'I'm Nadiya Hussain.
0:00:04 > 0:00:07'Last year, I shocked myself, my family and the nation...'
0:00:07 > 0:00:09The winner is Nadiya!
0:00:09 > 0:00:10CHEERING
0:00:10 > 0:00:13'..when I won The Great British Bake Off.'
0:00:13 > 0:00:16I'm never going to say, "I don't think I can."
0:00:16 > 0:00:18I can. And I will.
0:00:20 > 0:00:22'Now I'm going back to my roots.'
0:00:22 > 0:00:25This is Bangladesh like I've never seen it before.
0:00:25 > 0:00:27'And I'm taking my love of food...'
0:00:27 > 0:00:30That is the best chanachur I've ever tasted.
0:00:30 > 0:00:32'..and cooking with me.'
0:00:32 > 0:00:34I'm on a moving boat cooking a biryani.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37I didn't think I'd ever say that sentence ever in my life.
0:00:37 > 0:00:39'This is a journey that takes me home...'
0:00:39 > 0:00:41He's my favourite!
0:00:41 > 0:00:45'..to the people and places I've missed so much...'
0:00:45 > 0:00:48It's like, "Oh, catch it!"
0:00:48 > 0:00:51Nothing like the wind in your hijab.
0:00:51 > 0:00:55'..and on an adventure through a country I've never explored.'
0:00:55 > 0:00:57I love the lead singer.
0:00:57 > 0:00:59The lead singer sounds great.
0:01:01 > 0:01:04There's a chicken running across my kitchen.
0:01:04 > 0:01:06That doesn't happen at home.
0:01:06 > 0:01:08I'm feeling a little bit old as a 30-something-year-old
0:01:08 > 0:01:10with three children. I don't feel like I fit in.
0:01:10 > 0:01:12I feel like a grandfather here. Yeah!
0:01:12 > 0:01:15David Attenborough, eat your heart out
0:01:15 > 0:01:17because this is the thing of dreams.
0:01:27 > 0:01:29NADIYA: I've been staying near Sylhet
0:01:29 > 0:01:30with my family for almost a week,
0:01:30 > 0:01:33but now I'm about to head off to explore this amazing country
0:01:33 > 0:01:34for the very first time.
0:01:37 > 0:01:40To think I have been to Bangladesh, if not every year,
0:01:40 > 0:01:43every other year of my life up until the age of 20,
0:01:43 > 0:01:48I never, ever saw anything past the boundaries of the village.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51We landed, we went to the village, we stayed in the village.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53Didn't do anything else.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57When you come from the culture I've come from
0:01:57 > 0:01:59and the way that we've been raised,
0:01:59 > 0:02:01it's totally unusual for a woman
0:02:01 > 0:02:04to just get up and just travel on her own.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07I'm doing something that not everybody does.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10Before I leave my home town, Sylhet,
0:02:10 > 0:02:13on a 900-mile journey around Bangladesh,
0:02:13 > 0:02:15I'm joining the crowds visiting the shrine
0:02:15 > 0:02:18of the 14th century Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Jalal.
0:02:18 > 0:02:23The story goes that his uncle gave him some soil
0:02:23 > 0:02:27and said, "Take this soil, and if you can find the same soil
0:02:27 > 0:02:31"with the same smell and the same colour somewhere else,
0:02:31 > 0:02:35"then propagate that soil there and spread Islam".
0:02:35 > 0:02:39Could this be the reason why my family came here in the first place?
0:02:42 > 0:02:45This definitely feels like the right point to head off.
0:02:45 > 0:02:47I was going off quietly when I was saying bye to my mum.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50I'm not going quietly now.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52I just wonder whether they're going to follow me
0:02:52 > 0:02:53all the way to Dhaka now!
0:02:55 > 0:02:57Bangladesh is in South Asia
0:02:57 > 0:03:01and shares borders with India and Myanmar.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04My first stop is 120 miles south-west of Sylhet,
0:03:04 > 0:03:07Bangladesh's capital city, Dhaka.
0:03:08 > 0:03:10Dhaka sits on the Buriganga River
0:03:10 > 0:03:14and is one of the fastest-growing megacities in the world.
0:03:14 > 0:03:17It's also one of the most overcrowded,
0:03:17 > 0:03:19with a population of 17 million.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24Despite Bangladesh's booming economy,
0:03:24 > 0:03:26three million of Dhaka's residents
0:03:26 > 0:03:29still live in incredible poverty in makeshift slums.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34I've heard about a great charity called Thrive,
0:03:34 > 0:03:37providing free meals to schools right in the heart
0:03:37 > 0:03:40of Dhaka's biggest slum and I want to find out more.
0:03:40 > 0:03:42Showing me around is Sadia Moyeen,
0:03:42 > 0:03:46one of the charity's leading volunteers.
0:03:46 > 0:03:50Most of the people here are very hard-working, but some are beggars,
0:03:50 > 0:03:53some are rickshaw wallahs and, you know, other menial workers,
0:03:53 > 0:03:55perhaps some garment workers, as well.
0:03:55 > 0:03:58As you can see, their homes are quite humble.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04In theory, attending school is compulsory, but in practice,
0:04:04 > 0:04:08only half the children growing up in the slums will go to school.
0:04:08 > 0:04:11Since the charity initiated the free school dinner programme,
0:04:11 > 0:04:14attendance at school has improved enormously.
0:04:14 > 0:04:18It's proven that if a child has a hearty, healthy meal,
0:04:18 > 0:04:21they can carry on into the afternoon and study really well.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24Absolutely. It's better health, better mental health.
0:04:24 > 0:04:26And they can concentrate better during the day.
0:04:26 > 0:04:28For the children here, it's different.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30It's a question of not eating at all
0:04:30 > 0:04:32and going to school on an empty stomach.
0:04:32 > 0:04:35I am seeing the difference in the last two years,
0:04:35 > 0:04:38the impact that it has, the education and the food
0:04:38 > 0:04:40has on the lives of these little children.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46Sadia has asked if I could cook a treat for the pupils
0:04:46 > 0:04:47attending one of the schools.
0:04:47 > 0:04:51As a mother and a cook, this is a cause that's close to my heart.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53How could I refuse?
0:04:53 > 0:04:55Sweet coconut and fennel samosa is a recipe
0:04:55 > 0:04:58I've inherited from my mother.
0:04:58 > 0:05:00How are you guys? Not bad.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03Very well. Very excited to see you.
0:05:03 > 0:05:04I've got 300 samosas to make,
0:05:04 > 0:05:07so Sadia and her cousin Amna are lending me a hand,
0:05:07 > 0:05:09as well as a kitchen.
0:05:09 > 0:05:11My first job is to make the pastry.
0:05:11 > 0:05:12Right, so it's just flour...
0:05:15 > 0:05:17Good pinch of salt.
0:05:17 > 0:05:19And it's quite a nice combination
0:05:19 > 0:05:21because it's savoury on the outside, but it's...
0:05:21 > 0:05:24Really sweet inside. ..really sweet on the inside.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26To bring the dough together, I'm adding cold water
0:05:26 > 0:05:27a little at a time.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31I'm going to get my hands in now. Yeah.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33There's no other way. There's no other way. There's no other way.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36Once it's formed a ball, it's time to knead the dough.
0:05:36 > 0:05:39I just want it to be smooth, so when I roll it out, when you cut it,
0:05:39 > 0:05:41it doesn't lose its shape.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43So it shouldn't take too long.
0:05:43 > 0:05:45Somebody can roll and somebody else can cut. All right.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48I'll leave the dough with you. There's extra flour there.
0:05:48 > 0:05:50This is definitely a very modern kitchen
0:05:50 > 0:05:54compared to what I've been cooking in for the last week or so.
0:05:54 > 0:05:55So it's quite nice, actually, to have an oven
0:05:55 > 0:05:58and to have, like, plugs and sockets and whizz things up.
0:05:58 > 0:06:00You're itching to bake something.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02Yeah. I'm itching to bake something.
0:06:02 > 0:06:04Amna, do you cook much? No, I don't.
0:06:04 > 0:06:07I've really thrown you in the deep end now.
0:06:07 > 0:06:08I have help at home!
0:06:09 > 0:06:12While Sadia and Amna roll out the samosa cases,
0:06:12 > 0:06:16I need to get the filling started by finely chopping fresh coconut
0:06:16 > 0:06:17in a food processor.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20There's nothing like fresh coconut because you get all the...
0:06:20 > 0:06:23You know the dark brown bits around the edge? Yeah, the brown bits.
0:06:23 > 0:06:26Which you can't get when you buy desiccated coconut from the shops.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29Exactly. So I've got coconut, sugar,
0:06:29 > 0:06:31added some water and some clarified butter.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33I'm going to let that cook down.
0:06:35 > 0:06:37This doesn't need a lot of cooking down because it's fresh coconut.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40If it was desiccated coconut, you'd need to add a lot more water
0:06:40 > 0:06:43and rehydrate that coconut again.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46And then, finally, some fennel seeds.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49I wouldn't have thought of putting fennel with coconut.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51I don't know anybody else who does coconut and fennel.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54No, not at all. I just gave away my mum's biggest...
0:06:54 > 0:06:56Secret! Biggest secret combination!
0:06:56 > 0:06:59I think our kids are going to be very excited to eat this.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04The coconut filling needs to be simmered for about 15 minutes
0:07:04 > 0:07:06until it's sticky.
0:07:06 > 0:07:08Once the coconut mixture has completely cooled,
0:07:08 > 0:07:11it's time for the fun part - filling the samosas.
0:07:11 > 0:07:14Just flatten it out slightly around the edges.
0:07:14 > 0:07:16And then...
0:07:16 > 0:07:19I would go a heaped teaspoon
0:07:19 > 0:07:20and go over.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26Press down. It's still quite moist,
0:07:26 > 0:07:29so you don't need anything to seal it. OK.
0:07:29 > 0:07:32You just push it down and then just pleat it.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35OK. Now, that's the part that we need to learn. Yeah.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38You just lift it up from the bottom
0:07:38 > 0:07:39and then you twist it over.
0:07:39 > 0:07:40OK.
0:07:42 > 0:07:44You're a good teacher, Nadiya.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46Ah, thank you!
0:07:46 > 0:07:47Does that work?
0:07:47 > 0:07:50Yeah, that works. That looks really good! Yay!
0:07:50 > 0:07:52It's not happening. OK, let me try. You'll get into the swing of it
0:07:52 > 0:07:54once you've done a few...
0:07:54 > 0:07:56Do you think, after having made these samosas,
0:07:56 > 0:07:59do you think it'll encourage you to cook a little bit more? Definitely.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01Yeah? Most definitely.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03Once filled, the samosas just need to be dropped
0:08:03 > 0:08:07into a deep pan of hot vegetable oil and fried until they're golden.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10And the thing that I have to be really careful to do
0:08:10 > 0:08:12is not to overcrowd the pan.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14Because if you put too many in,
0:08:14 > 0:08:19it starts to boil and then you get too much moisture in the pan,
0:08:19 > 0:08:21so only do a few at a time.
0:08:21 > 0:08:24First batch. Oh, that looks good. Oh, wow.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27Yummy. I love to sprinkle a little bit of salt on top. Ah! Salt.
0:08:27 > 0:08:32And I promise you, it sounds funny, but it really works.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36With the first batch done, we all decide it's time for a tea break.
0:08:38 > 0:08:39Oh, lovely.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42I love your salt.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44I'm definitely incorporating this in my...
0:08:44 > 0:08:46We're going to make this. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49We'll call it Nadiya Special. Oh, Nadiya Special!
0:08:50 > 0:08:52With many more samosas to make
0:08:52 > 0:08:54and a delivery deadline of lunchtime tomorrow,
0:08:54 > 0:08:56we'd better crack on.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06Today, Sadia and I are going to be handing out the samosas
0:09:06 > 0:09:08during lunch break.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12So the school I'm taking you to now is Jaago.
0:09:12 > 0:09:16They have 290 kids here, from nursery up to grade five.
0:09:17 > 0:09:19Good morning.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24As you can see, it's all that.
0:09:24 > 0:09:26So the classes are on top.
0:09:26 > 0:09:28This is the nursery school.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32Everything about this feels like a school! Yes, yes.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35While Sadia organises the food for lunch,
0:09:35 > 0:09:38head teacher Ayesha Rahman is going to show me around,
0:09:38 > 0:09:41starting with the grade one class for six and seven-year-olds.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43May we come in?
0:09:43 > 0:09:45CHILDREN: Yes! OK.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47And say hello to our guest.
0:09:47 > 0:09:49Hello!
0:09:49 > 0:09:51CHILDREN: Hello!
0:09:51 > 0:09:54Poverty and illiteracy are a vicious cycle in Bangladesh.
0:09:54 > 0:09:57Almost 50% of the adults living in these slums are illiterate.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00The education that these children are receiving is vital
0:10:00 > 0:10:02to their future prospects.
0:10:02 > 0:10:03SHE SPEAKS BENGALI
0:10:03 > 0:10:05What is that? Tree. A tree?
0:10:05 > 0:10:07And what's that? Fish.
0:10:07 > 0:10:09Fish?
0:10:09 > 0:10:10Can I see your book?
0:10:10 > 0:10:13Your writing is very good.
0:10:13 > 0:10:16You can do English and Bangla?
0:10:16 > 0:10:17Yes. Yes.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19Bye!
0:10:21 > 0:10:24The majority of secondary school-age children in Bangladesh
0:10:24 > 0:10:26do not carry on their education.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30But schools like this are working hard to improve that statistic.
0:10:31 > 0:10:33What's your name? Hanzalah.
0:10:33 > 0:10:35Hanzalah? Yes. How are you?
0:10:35 > 0:10:38I'm fine. Yeah? How are you? I'm good, thank you.
0:10:38 > 0:10:41Do you enjoy this class? I enjoy this class very much.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44What do you want to be when you're older?
0:10:44 > 0:10:46I want to be a cricketer. What job do you want to do?
0:10:46 > 0:10:49You want to be a cricketer? Yes. Professionally? Yeah.
0:10:49 > 0:10:50What do your parents do?
0:10:50 > 0:10:53My father is a shopkeeper and my mother is a housewife.
0:10:53 > 0:10:55Housewife? Yes. How far do you live from the school?
0:10:55 > 0:10:57Near.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59Number two! Somebody else!
0:11:00 > 0:11:02Right, good.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04I'll leave you to it. I think you want to get on with your work,
0:11:04 > 0:11:06or you're going to get told off. OK. Bye!
0:11:06 > 0:11:09Music, music. Thank you.
0:11:10 > 0:11:14It's so nice to see that they're so engaged with what they're doing.
0:11:14 > 0:11:16And it means... It just shows something's working.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19You know, these kids are happy and they want to learn.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26The broad smiles of the children belie the reality of the hunger
0:11:26 > 0:11:27and disease that they face each day.
0:11:29 > 0:11:30You're welcome.
0:11:30 > 0:11:33For many of them, this simple lunch of my samosa,
0:11:33 > 0:11:36an egg and a banana may be the only meal they have today.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38Thank you! You're welcome.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41SHE SPEAKS BENGALI
0:11:41 > 0:11:45SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
0:11:45 > 0:11:49I've never cooked for a more deserving or appreciative crowd.
0:11:49 > 0:11:53They are the smiliest, happiest children I've ever seen
0:11:53 > 0:11:56and you can tell they're so happy to be here.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01It's really clear to see that just that one meal in the day
0:12:01 > 0:12:03that they have makes such a difference,
0:12:03 > 0:12:08not only to their stomach, but also to their general health.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10The children here have less coughs and colds.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13They're much more awake, enthusiastic to learn.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15I feel like I don't want to leave.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17I feel like I want to go back in the kitchen
0:12:17 > 0:12:20and make another 300 samosas and do this for a few months.
0:12:22 > 0:12:24Coming here, I don't feel sadness.
0:12:24 > 0:12:26I feel hope. Like something's happening.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29These children live in the middle of these slums,
0:12:29 > 0:12:32yet they have a place where they can come, they can have a meal,
0:12:32 > 0:12:35they can learn and they can walk away and they have hope.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46Today I'm leaving Dhaka,
0:12:46 > 0:12:49setting sail from Sadarghat Port on a passenger ferry.
0:12:51 > 0:12:53I've been invited as a guest of the captain and, in return,
0:12:53 > 0:12:56I've offered to cook dinner for him and his crew.
0:12:59 > 0:13:02I've come to Kawran Bazar to pick up a few ingredients for my recipe
0:13:02 > 0:13:03before I board the boat.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08I have to say, I'm really shocked.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12I remember a bazaar from years ago where it was busy,
0:13:12 > 0:13:14but I very rarely got to be in the centre of it.
0:13:14 > 0:13:17I feel like my senses are being bashed around right now.
0:13:17 > 0:13:18Mostly smell.
0:13:18 > 0:13:21There is no hiding from where things come from.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23It's all very real.
0:13:23 > 0:13:25This is Dhaka's oldest and largest market.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28It's a hub of activity, 24 hours a day,
0:13:28 > 0:13:32and the produce comes from all over Bangladesh.
0:13:32 > 0:13:35On my shopping list are chillies and spices
0:13:35 > 0:13:38and it's very easy to get distracted here.
0:13:38 > 0:13:40I'm always tempted by the dry fish.
0:13:40 > 0:13:42They've got really big ones there.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44They have so much fish
0:13:44 > 0:13:46that sometimes they need a way of preserving it
0:13:46 > 0:13:48and so what they'll do is they dry some of it,
0:13:48 > 0:13:50they'll ferment some of it.
0:13:50 > 0:13:54And it just adds such a delicious flavour to some of the broths
0:13:54 > 0:13:57and things that they make. I mean, these are delicious.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00They're just the smallest prawns you can get.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03You dry fry them in a pan and then add them with onions and chillies
0:14:03 > 0:14:06and then you just kind of macerate them
0:14:06 > 0:14:08and then just eat them as they are. Delicious.
0:14:16 > 0:14:17That's a liquid form of sugar.
0:14:21 > 0:14:22My God, that's so sweet.
0:14:22 > 0:14:24But if you buy that now as it is
0:14:24 > 0:14:27and then add that to plain flour and some water and just cook it,
0:14:27 > 0:14:28it's delicious.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32I recognise that instantly, it's tamarind.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35Some of it's in pulp and some of it is just in, like, a pod,
0:14:35 > 0:14:37but it's, like, attached by string.
0:14:37 > 0:14:40I prefer it like that because it just tastes so much sweeter.
0:14:40 > 0:14:42If you want a chutney to be slightly tangy,
0:14:42 > 0:14:44you add a little bit of tamarind to it.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47Or quite often, my mum will cook with it
0:14:47 > 0:14:48just to make a tangy fish curry.
0:14:53 > 0:14:55He's just told me that it's really, really spicy.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57But I believe him because there's a way of testing it.
0:14:57 > 0:15:00So if you press the chilli hard, it should be really tight
0:15:00 > 0:15:02and packed with seeds inside it.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05So when he says it's spicy, I believe him.
0:15:13 > 0:15:17I love the measuring system. Look at this.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19Can't get more old school than that, can you?
0:15:22 > 0:15:23Thank you.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49When I used to come to the bazaar with my dad,
0:15:49 > 0:15:50he was quite protective.
0:15:50 > 0:15:53Literally, I used to be in a circle of uncles and Dad.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56But this time, I've been able to kind of walk around
0:15:56 > 0:15:59and see things for myself,
0:15:59 > 0:16:01and I won't say that I haven't been afraid,
0:16:01 > 0:16:02cos you almost kind of step back and think,
0:16:02 > 0:16:05"Oh, my goodness, this is quite full-on."
0:16:06 > 0:16:09But it's like anywhere. If you just remind yourself,
0:16:09 > 0:16:12actually, it's just a market. It is just a market.
0:16:12 > 0:16:14Oh, chickens!
0:16:14 > 0:16:16There's something quite exciting
0:16:16 > 0:16:18about something that's not completely orderly.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20I don't quite know what I'm going to get around the corner.
0:16:20 > 0:16:22TRAIN HORN
0:16:24 > 0:16:25Did you see those children?
0:16:25 > 0:16:27They made it look easy, standing on a train.
0:16:28 > 0:16:29That's one way to travel.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33With my shopping done, it's time to catch my boat.
0:16:35 > 0:16:39With around 300 ferries and over 150,000 passengers passing through
0:16:39 > 0:16:43Sadarghat Port every day, it's one of the busiest in the world.
0:16:44 > 0:16:47I'm booked on the 6.30 departure heading south.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57We're travelling overnight and for those on a standard-class ticket,
0:16:57 > 0:17:00it's a case of making a camp on the open deck.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03But for the lucky few like me, there are first-class cabins.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08I'm heading there now to drop off my bag before I get to work on dinner
0:17:08 > 0:17:10for the captain and his crew.
0:17:11 > 0:17:12This is first class.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17Let's just say I'm never, ever going to complain on first class
0:17:17 > 0:17:19when the meals feel like
0:17:19 > 0:17:21they've come out of the microwave on a train!
0:17:22 > 0:17:25It's got a fan, it's got a television.
0:17:25 > 0:17:27Let's see if we can get that to work.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29I've been electrocuted so many times.
0:17:31 > 0:17:32Hey, it works!
0:17:33 > 0:17:36You know what? I shouldn't complain. This is very cosy.
0:17:36 > 0:17:38There are people downstairs on the floor, who are going to be in
0:17:38 > 0:17:41the sweltering heat, sleeping on the floor, so this is not bad at all.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45I do feel a little bit out of my depth,
0:17:45 > 0:17:47but I feel super brave.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52You know, the more you sit in here and enjoy the fan,
0:17:52 > 0:17:54it feels more and more like first class.
0:17:54 > 0:17:55It's fab.
0:18:01 > 0:18:04This is one of the four remaining paddle steamers built during
0:18:04 > 0:18:08the time of British rule and dates back to 1929.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13The captain and crew live and work on the boat all year round.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15It's a pretty tough life.
0:18:16 > 0:18:18I've decided to cook them a traditional biryani
0:18:18 > 0:18:20topped with a fried egg,
0:18:20 > 0:18:23a dish that my family usually cook and share for celebrations.
0:18:23 > 0:18:26So I hope it will be a real treat.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30My first job is to chop the garlic, onion and ginger.
0:18:30 > 0:18:36My last boat trip was when I was 11, and I went to Boulogne.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39Sick as a dog the whole way.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42So I'm a little bit nervous about how rocky this is going to be.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46Now I'm melting a knob of ghee to toast the bay leaves,
0:18:46 > 0:18:48peppercorns and a cinnamon stick...
0:18:49 > 0:18:53..and then softening the chopped garlic, chilli, ginger and onion.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55Add my salt.
0:18:55 > 0:18:57You have to be a bit overgenerous with the salt,
0:18:57 > 0:18:59because you are going to add rice to this and when you mix it up,
0:18:59 > 0:19:02you need to have the flavour going through all the way.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07Then, add a splash of water...
0:19:07 > 0:19:09Just to help to soften the onions.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11You don't want it to boil, you want it to brown,
0:19:11 > 0:19:13but adding water stops it from sticking.
0:19:15 > 0:19:16Hot.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19Really, really hot. And I used to complain about being in my kitchen.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24I'm not used to wearing my scarf when I'm cooking,
0:19:24 > 0:19:26so it's really hard.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29Once the onions have softened, it's time to add the spices.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33We bought these at the market today,
0:19:33 > 0:19:35in these lovely makeshift...
0:19:35 > 0:19:39I think these look like... This paper's come from the bank, I think.
0:19:39 > 0:19:41And they've used... Recycled.
0:19:41 > 0:19:42They recycle everything.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45Oh, there's some account numbers in here! Better put that down.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48So...add this chilli first.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51Then a few teaspoons each of turmeric,
0:19:51 > 0:19:53garam masala and coriander.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55So I'll add each of these one by one.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00And you have to be sure to cook this out for at least ten minutes.
0:20:00 > 0:20:03The trick now is to just let it cook.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06And you know the spices have cooked when all the oil, the red oil
0:20:06 > 0:20:07comes to the top.
0:20:07 > 0:20:09This is the perfect time now to get the meat in.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13I've used mutton, or lamb or beef at home, because they're easy to find.
0:20:13 > 0:20:15But they don't have mutton here.
0:20:15 > 0:20:17Can you imagine a sheep with all that wool in Bangladesh?
0:20:17 > 0:20:20It would just be torture, really.
0:20:20 > 0:20:21So I think it's just...
0:20:21 > 0:20:24It's just animal-friendly just to use a goat.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26So before it starts to stick too much
0:20:26 > 0:20:29I'm going to add all my goat into the pan.
0:20:30 > 0:20:32I mean, it's...
0:20:32 > 0:20:34You can tell this goat was looked after.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37It's just marbled with lots of beautiful fat.
0:20:42 > 0:20:43So I've got all the meat in.
0:20:43 > 0:20:44It's all coated in all the spices.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47I'm going to put the lid on and leave it for half an hour.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51And while that cooks, I'm going up on deck to get my bearings
0:20:51 > 0:20:52before the boat sets sail.
0:20:55 > 0:20:58Now, this is Bangladesh like I've never seen before.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02It's odd, because rivers are usually quite calm and quite serene.
0:21:02 > 0:21:05But it feels like the mayhem of the land
0:21:05 > 0:21:07has somehow seeped into the water.
0:21:07 > 0:21:10This quarter-of-a-mile-wide stretch of the Buriganga River
0:21:10 > 0:21:13is one of the most dangerous waterways on earth.
0:21:15 > 0:21:18All day long, thousands of commuters cross the river in wooden boats,
0:21:18 > 0:21:21vying for space with hundreds of passenger ferries
0:21:21 > 0:21:22and huge cargo barges.
0:21:24 > 0:21:26That's teetering on the edge of danger, that is.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29One more bag of rice and they're on tipping point.
0:21:29 > 0:21:31They don't seem too worried.
0:21:33 > 0:21:35They look like they're going to school.
0:21:35 > 0:21:36Where are you from?
0:21:36 > 0:21:37London!
0:21:38 > 0:21:40London? Ah!
0:21:40 > 0:21:42I think I'm getting chatted up!
0:21:42 > 0:21:44What is your name?
0:21:44 > 0:21:45"What is your name?", he says!
0:21:47 > 0:21:50The crew are preparing the boat for departure,
0:21:50 > 0:21:52so I'd better get on with their dinner.
0:21:52 > 0:21:54So the meat looks cooked.
0:21:54 > 0:21:55ROARING
0:21:55 > 0:21:57And the engine's just started.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01The meat is looking good, so I'm adding some yoghurt and dried fruit.
0:22:01 > 0:22:02These are actually called boroi.
0:22:02 > 0:22:05I really struggle to find these when I'm back in England,
0:22:05 > 0:22:06so I'd use dried plums.
0:22:06 > 0:22:07HORN
0:22:09 > 0:22:12Looks like we're about to set sail. I'd better hold on to my dish.
0:22:15 > 0:22:17You can see people kind of scurrying on.
0:22:17 > 0:22:21It's like, "Oh, my God! There's only one plank left! Run!"
0:22:21 > 0:22:23Finally, some fresh coriander leaves,
0:22:23 > 0:22:24and that's the meat curry done.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28Now it's time to assemble the biryani by layering up
0:22:28 > 0:22:29parboiled rice and curry.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32But first, I'm lining the pot with melted ghee.
0:22:32 > 0:22:33So what I'm going to do,
0:22:33 > 0:22:36the first layer is going to be a layer of rice.
0:22:37 > 0:22:39And what that'll do is, as it's cooking slowly,
0:22:39 > 0:22:43it'll create a really crunchy layer of rice on the outside.
0:22:43 > 0:22:46So when I stir it all through together, with every bite,
0:22:46 > 0:22:48everybody will get some crunchy rice, some soft rice.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51So it adds that extra bit of texture.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54So I'm going to go in with my hands, just because it's easier.
0:22:55 > 0:22:57Then it's in with the meat,
0:22:57 > 0:23:00and I'm going to keep on alternating the layers until the pot is filled.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04We're actually moving off. Aaah!
0:23:04 > 0:23:06ENGINE ROARS
0:23:09 > 0:23:12I'm on a moving boat, cooking a biryani.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14I didn't think I'd ever say that sentence ever in my life.
0:23:16 > 0:23:18I'm tempted to say, "Ahoy!"
0:23:19 > 0:23:20Ahoy!
0:23:22 > 0:23:25The biryani needs another half an hour on a medium heat.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27And to make sure no moisture escapes,
0:23:27 > 0:23:29I'm putting a tea towel under the lid.
0:23:29 > 0:23:33You know it's a good biryani when you open the lid and it goes...
0:23:33 > 0:23:34Just, poof!
0:23:50 > 0:23:52Whilst my day's drawing to a close,
0:23:52 > 0:23:55the captain and crew are just getting started.
0:23:55 > 0:23:57They'll be steering our passage south through the night
0:23:57 > 0:24:00and need a good meal.
0:24:00 > 0:24:01I just hope they like my biryani.
0:24:07 > 0:24:08That's really sweet.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11They've all just turned round and given thumbs-up.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13There's nothing more heart-warming than that.
0:24:29 > 0:24:31In 12 hours, I will arrive in Barisal and, from there,
0:24:31 > 0:24:35I'll continue my journey by road to Gobra, a remote river village.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47It's 6am and I thought I'd get some more sleep in the car,
0:24:47 > 0:24:50but the view through my window is far too interesting.
0:25:00 > 0:25:04The last part of my journey is by boat on a tributary of the Padma,
0:25:04 > 0:25:06known in India as the Ganges.
0:25:10 > 0:25:12Never, ever had the pleasure of doing this before...
0:25:14 > 0:25:16..just to kind of drift and see.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24There's, like, a commuter belt where people take cows.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27People are taking... Schoolchildren are going across to school.
0:25:27 > 0:25:29Motorbikes.
0:25:33 > 0:25:37I'm used to seeing graffiti, but they're drying their fishing net.
0:25:37 > 0:25:39That's one way of using a bridge.
0:25:41 > 0:25:43Bangladesh sits on the world's largest delta
0:25:43 > 0:25:46and is covered in more than 700 rivers.
0:25:46 > 0:25:48Now I understand, I suppose,
0:25:48 > 0:25:50why fish is such a massive part of our diet.
0:25:53 > 0:25:55I've arrived in Gobra,
0:25:55 > 0:25:57where I'm spending the day with the local fishermen,
0:25:57 > 0:26:00whose fishing technique dates back more than a thousand years.
0:26:03 > 0:26:06Bangla is the official language of Bangladesh,
0:26:06 > 0:26:08but there are regional dialects,
0:26:08 > 0:26:10so I'm hoping I'll be able to communicate with everyone.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28Robin's fishing method is unique to this area of Bangladesh.
0:26:28 > 0:26:30But his lifestyle is under threat,
0:26:30 > 0:26:34and he is one of only 150 men still fishing in this way.
0:26:34 > 0:26:36LOUD SQUEAKING Am I going across here?
0:26:36 > 0:26:40That loud noise is the sound of Robin's hungry workforce,
0:26:40 > 0:26:43his family of otters - mum, dad and their four babies.
0:26:45 > 0:26:47They're feeding the adults on the outside,
0:26:47 > 0:26:48but the babies get fed on the inside.
0:26:48 > 0:26:51I've never, ever seen an otter this close.
0:26:51 > 0:26:53What I didn't realise is they've got webbed feet.
0:26:53 > 0:26:56I didn't realise that they were webbed, but I suppose they're
0:26:56 > 0:26:58in the water a lot and they need them to be webbed.
0:26:58 > 0:27:00How much fish do they go through every single day?
0:27:03 > 0:27:07Robin has bred and trained these Asian short-clawed otters.
0:27:07 > 0:27:09I know some people object to working animals,
0:27:09 > 0:27:12but his breeding programme plays a vital role in the conservation
0:27:12 > 0:27:15of this species, which is native to Bangladesh
0:27:15 > 0:27:17and vulnerable to extinction.
0:27:20 > 0:27:22They play with his hands, and if he calls them,
0:27:22 > 0:27:25they all recognise him and they all come running.
0:27:25 > 0:27:27Is it easy to train an otter?
0:27:27 > 0:27:29How many years does it take before it can start fishing?
0:27:38 > 0:27:42Robin and his otters usually fish at night to avoid the heat of the day.
0:27:42 > 0:27:45But he's kindly offered to take me out now to show me how it's done.
0:27:54 > 0:27:57Otters fish in pairs in the wild, too, so Robin is harnessing
0:27:57 > 0:27:58their natural skills.
0:28:01 > 0:28:05Robin and his uncle fish together every day of the year,
0:28:05 > 0:28:09and between them they have over 70 years' experience.
0:28:09 > 0:28:11They've got this enormous, U-shaped piece of bamboo,
0:28:11 > 0:28:13and they've got nets attached to it,
0:28:13 > 0:28:17and they're kind of pushing it into the bottom of the bed of the river.
0:28:17 > 0:28:19And they've got the otters,
0:28:19 > 0:28:22who they're controlling with these enormous sticks with their feet,
0:28:22 > 0:28:25and the otters are pushing the fish into the net.
0:28:26 > 0:28:29He seems to have his own little language with the otters.
0:28:34 > 0:28:35They look like they're looking for each other.
0:28:39 > 0:28:42They're communicating with each other, and every now and again,
0:28:42 > 0:28:45they get close and have a little kiss and then go away.
0:28:45 > 0:28:46It's so sweet.
0:28:48 > 0:28:53At night, Robin usually catches about ten to 15 kilos of fish.
0:28:53 > 0:28:55But in his grandfather's day,
0:28:55 > 0:28:57the catch could be over six times as big.
0:29:05 > 0:29:07So in sync with each other.
0:29:07 > 0:29:09It's quite beautiful to watch.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12Bangladesh is particularly vulnerable to rising sea levels
0:29:12 > 0:29:15linked to climate change, and I wonder if this is why
0:29:15 > 0:29:17there are fewer fish in the rivers.
0:29:17 > 0:29:20Do you know why the fish stocks have gone down in the river?
0:29:29 > 0:29:31When you were 18, when you started fishing,
0:29:31 > 0:29:33was it a profitable thing to do?
0:29:41 > 0:29:45As the catch has got smaller, the market price of the fish has risen.
0:29:45 > 0:29:48Robin can still just about make a living as a fisherman,
0:29:48 > 0:29:49but it's not easy.
0:29:52 > 0:29:54And despite everyone's best efforts,
0:29:54 > 0:29:56we don't catch anything today.
0:29:56 > 0:29:58I'd love my kids to come and see this in a few years' time,
0:29:58 > 0:30:02but I wonder if this skill will still be around.
0:30:02 > 0:30:03I hope it is.
0:30:07 > 0:30:10Islam is the official religion of Bangladesh,
0:30:10 > 0:30:12and 90% of the population are Muslim.
0:30:14 > 0:30:17Robin and his wife Alo are part of a small Hindu minority
0:30:17 > 0:30:18that makes up only 8%.
0:30:21 > 0:30:23This evening, their village is hosting a group of
0:30:23 > 0:30:25devotional musicians, but before they perform,
0:30:25 > 0:30:27I've been invited to share a meal.
0:30:28 > 0:30:30My contribution is grilled chicken,
0:30:30 > 0:30:34marinated in spiced yoghurt and served with a deliciously tangy
0:30:34 > 0:30:37pickle made from shatkora, a type of lime from Sylhet.
0:30:38 > 0:30:40They're not used to eating something like this.
0:30:40 > 0:30:44They're probably used to eating chicken that's stewed like a curry,
0:30:44 > 0:30:46but I thought, "If we're going to make something,
0:30:46 > 0:30:49"let's make something slightly different and see if they enjoy it."
0:30:49 > 0:30:52Alo is making one of their traditional fish curries,
0:30:52 > 0:30:55and her daughter Brishti is in the middle of making a curry paste.
0:30:56 > 0:31:00My first job is to marinade the chicken to tenderise the meat,
0:31:00 > 0:31:02but also give it a fantastic flavour.
0:31:02 > 0:31:04I've just added some yoghurt to it.
0:31:04 > 0:31:06Going to add a bit of salt,
0:31:06 > 0:31:08and I'm going to add a bit of turmeric.
0:31:08 > 0:31:12To that, I'm going to add the juice of a shatkora lime.
0:31:13 > 0:31:15This looks so much like a grapefruit.
0:31:15 > 0:31:18The reason it's called shatkora is because it's got seven segments.
0:31:18 > 0:31:20So you could use grapefruit, you could use orange.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23There's a chicken running across my kitchen!
0:31:23 > 0:31:24That doesn't happen at home.
0:31:26 > 0:31:28These are FULL of juice.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31They will impart so much flavour into this chicken.
0:31:31 > 0:31:33I thought cooking in Bangladesh might be a challenge,
0:31:33 > 0:31:36but I didn't expect to be constantly observed.
0:31:36 > 0:31:39My kitchen's definitely my safe place, I've worked that out.
0:31:39 > 0:31:44I quite like just whipping off the scarf, putting on some music,
0:31:44 > 0:31:46dancing around in some shorts and cooking.
0:31:46 > 0:31:48I definitely can't do that here.
0:31:48 > 0:31:50I don't know if I'm going to miss the audience.
0:31:50 > 0:31:51While my chicken marinades,
0:31:51 > 0:31:53I need to make a start on the shatkora pickle
0:31:53 > 0:31:56by finely chopping onion, ginger and garlic.
0:31:58 > 0:32:01Into hot oil go the whole spices -
0:32:01 > 0:32:04bay, cardamom seeds and a cinnamon stick.
0:32:04 > 0:32:09I'm going to add my garlic, ginger and my onions.
0:32:09 > 0:32:12Brishti is in charge of keeping my cooking fires burning.
0:32:13 > 0:32:17And for even more of a kick, I'm adding turmeric, chilli, cumin
0:32:17 > 0:32:19and curry powder to the pickle.
0:32:20 > 0:32:22Hard work, all this cooking outdoors lark.
0:32:22 > 0:32:26Now, I'm finally chopping a quarter of a whole shatkora,
0:32:26 > 0:32:28and I need to stir that into the pan.
0:32:28 > 0:32:31Add some water and then leave it to reduce for 15 minutes.
0:32:34 > 0:32:37I'm going to add the chicken
0:32:37 > 0:32:38to the grill.
0:32:38 > 0:32:39Have a sizzle.
0:32:41 > 0:32:43Grilled chicken is such a favourite of mine,
0:32:43 > 0:32:46but it's very unusual to cook like this here.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49Traditionally, meat and fish are always cooked in a lot of sauce.
0:32:53 > 0:32:56It needs to be cooked really, really well.
0:32:56 > 0:32:58It is very different for them,
0:32:58 > 0:33:00and I don't want to give them undercooked meat, either.
0:33:14 > 0:33:18She is not convinced at all by my methods!
0:33:21 > 0:33:23I assume that they've never seen grilled chicken.
0:33:23 > 0:33:26She doesn't think it's cooked and she's not sure how to eat it.
0:33:26 > 0:33:29That's all it is. I was worried that it was something to do with perhaps
0:33:29 > 0:33:31her religion or perhaps there's a way I've cooked it
0:33:31 > 0:33:34that she can't eat it. But I suppose if we show her,
0:33:34 > 0:33:35it might change her mind...
0:33:51 > 0:33:52She's going for it. Look.
0:33:52 > 0:33:54No inhibitions.
0:34:11 > 0:34:14It's such a strong flavour and they've never tasted it before.
0:34:14 > 0:34:17And here I am, this foreigner, coming in and cooking
0:34:17 > 0:34:19this grilled chicken.
0:34:19 > 0:34:21I was really nervous that they would hate it
0:34:21 > 0:34:22and they would not want to eat it.
0:34:22 > 0:34:24But they liked it, so I'm pleased.
0:34:24 > 0:34:25Thank you.
0:34:26 > 0:34:29I'm pretty sure Robin's family would have preferred a more traditional
0:34:29 > 0:34:32chicken curry, but I've loved cooking for them,
0:34:32 > 0:34:35and now it's my turn for a new experience.
0:34:36 > 0:34:37TRADITIONAL HINDU MUSIC
0:34:45 > 0:34:47They come every few months
0:34:47 > 0:34:49and they just do, like, blessings around the villages
0:34:49 > 0:34:52and they get everybody together and it's lovely.
0:34:52 > 0:34:55It's nice to experience blessings from a different religion.
0:34:55 > 0:34:57I'm so used to, obviously, my own...
0:34:57 > 0:34:59The way we do things in Islam.
0:34:59 > 0:35:02It's nice to see how other people do it.
0:35:03 > 0:35:06Islam doesn't really have very much music, but we do have drums.
0:35:06 > 0:35:08The drums are quite familiar.
0:35:08 > 0:35:10They're singing for Krishna, I believe.
0:35:12 > 0:35:14Beautiful! It's so beautiful.
0:35:14 > 0:35:16I love the lead singer.
0:35:16 > 0:35:18The lead singer sounds great.
0:35:18 > 0:35:19MUSIC CONTINUES
0:35:33 > 0:35:36I have a feeling that this celebration could go on a while.
0:35:36 > 0:35:37It's time for me to slip away.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42I'm spending the night on a boat moored just down the river,
0:35:42 > 0:35:45and I'm keen to get on board before it gets too dark.
0:35:48 > 0:35:51I'm always kind of taken aback a bit
0:35:51 > 0:35:52at how welcoming everyone is,
0:35:52 > 0:35:55despite the language barrier,
0:35:55 > 0:35:57despite all of the different...
0:35:57 > 0:35:59despite all the differences.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03They're still there. Look.
0:36:03 > 0:36:04Hi!
0:36:06 > 0:36:09I've just come from a Hindu ceremony across the way
0:36:09 > 0:36:13and I can hear the call to prayer all across this side.
0:36:14 > 0:36:15Which is odd, cos I'm not at home,
0:36:15 > 0:36:18but, by hearing that, I kind of almost feel at home.
0:36:19 > 0:36:22It's lovely that two sides can live together like this.
0:36:23 > 0:36:26I just... I can't... I have to keep pinching myself.
0:36:26 > 0:36:27I cannot believe where I am right now.
0:36:27 > 0:36:29David Attenborough, eat your heart out,
0:36:29 > 0:36:32because this is the thing of dreams.
0:36:45 > 0:36:48After a night gently rocked to sleep on the river,
0:36:48 > 0:36:51I'm up early to cook myself a simple dhal for breakfast
0:36:51 > 0:36:53before I continue my journey.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56Going home and cooking in the kitchen isn't going to quite feel
0:36:56 > 0:36:57the same any more.
0:36:57 > 0:36:59In ten years, I'll be like, "There was a time when I was on a boat
0:36:59 > 0:37:02"and I was cooking my lentils for breakfast."
0:37:07 > 0:37:09We came from a farming village
0:37:09 > 0:37:12and I know that my uncles grew up on lentils.
0:37:12 > 0:37:14They ate a lot of lentils.
0:37:14 > 0:37:17I think it was because it was cheap and it was easy to make in one pot
0:37:17 > 0:37:20and it was hearty and it filled a hole.
0:37:20 > 0:37:22I mean, I do wonder, do I really need that kind of fuel
0:37:22 > 0:37:24first thing in the morning?
0:37:24 > 0:37:26It's one tradition that's stayed.
0:37:26 > 0:37:28So on a Sunday, every now and again, why not?
0:37:28 > 0:37:31BIRDS CHIRP AND SQUAWK
0:37:31 > 0:37:34I have an uncle who knows, like, every bird call.
0:37:34 > 0:37:37He can tell me from the bird call what kind of bird it is.
0:37:39 > 0:37:40He'd be useful right now.
0:37:43 > 0:37:44At certain times of the year,
0:37:44 > 0:37:48over 600 types of birds can be found in this part of Bangladesh
0:37:48 > 0:37:52and there are hundreds of other animal species living in and around
0:37:52 > 0:37:56this river, including the endangered Ganges river dolphin.
0:37:56 > 0:37:59The dolphins that I'm looking for, they're freshwater dolphins
0:37:59 > 0:38:00and they're very rare.
0:38:00 > 0:38:04And the only other place we can see them is in the Amazon.
0:38:05 > 0:38:09I should just let somebody else take over while I look for dolphins.
0:38:09 > 0:38:10Oh!
0:38:10 > 0:38:12I saw one!
0:38:12 > 0:38:14I just saw one. Oh!
0:38:19 > 0:38:22When you squeeze it, if it's got that powdery bit in the centre,
0:38:22 > 0:38:23it's not cooked.
0:38:25 > 0:38:26I'll put it back.
0:38:26 > 0:38:28I feel so awful for having seen this,
0:38:28 > 0:38:30cos the boys would be so jealous.
0:38:30 > 0:38:32They really want to see something like this.
0:38:33 > 0:38:36I'm going to serve this up into a bowl with some chapatis
0:38:36 > 0:38:38and I'm going to sit down on top of the boat
0:38:38 > 0:38:40and see if I can spot some more dolphins.
0:38:40 > 0:38:43Oh, look! There's another splash just there.
0:38:57 > 0:39:00I'm driving 180 miles north of Gobra
0:39:00 > 0:39:03to the rural region of Sirajganj.
0:39:08 > 0:39:1250 million people still live in poverty in Bangladesh
0:39:12 > 0:39:15and almost three-quarters of them are based in rural communities.
0:39:16 > 0:39:19I'm on my way to meet an entrepreneurial couple who have
0:39:19 > 0:39:23pulled themselves out of extreme poverty by producing street food
0:39:23 > 0:39:25snacks a little like Bombay mix.
0:39:28 > 0:39:31They're hugely popular in Bangladesh and I love them.
0:39:36 > 0:39:38Assalamu alaikum. Walaikum salaam.
0:39:40 > 0:39:44Johir and Hamida run their street food business from home
0:39:44 > 0:39:46and they've invited me along to show me how they make a couple of
0:39:46 > 0:39:50their bestselling snacks - nimki and chanachur.
0:39:54 > 0:39:57Their first job is to make two simple savoury doughs.
0:40:12 > 0:40:14Before starting the business,
0:40:14 > 0:40:16Johir was employed as a weaver
0:40:16 > 0:40:18in one of the many local loom factories,
0:40:18 > 0:40:20a job he did for over 25 years.
0:40:29 > 0:40:31It was quite a risky thing to do.
0:40:31 > 0:40:33How has your life changed since starting your business?
0:40:58 > 0:41:01With the dough ready, it's time to get cooking.
0:41:01 > 0:41:04Johir and Hamida have three children
0:41:04 > 0:41:08and today their 16-year-old daughter is lending a hand.
0:41:08 > 0:41:10Freshly cut strips of the nimki dough
0:41:10 > 0:41:12are the first thing to go into the fryer.
0:41:12 > 0:41:14How can I describe them?
0:41:14 > 0:41:15They're like fried biscuits.
0:41:15 > 0:41:18As if biscuits aren't delicious enough, you fry them.
0:41:23 > 0:41:25He just knows.
0:41:28 > 0:41:32He wasn't wrong about them being the best. They are absolutely delicious.
0:41:32 > 0:41:34You can tell he knows he's good at what he does
0:41:34 > 0:41:35and he's confident in what he makes.
0:41:37 > 0:41:40Johir has a special bit of kit to make the chanachur,
0:41:40 > 0:41:43which is the main ingredient in Bombay mix.
0:41:43 > 0:41:45The machine presses the dough through a metal sieve,
0:41:45 > 0:41:49creating fine noodles that drop straight into the boiling oil.
0:41:50 > 0:41:53I've come to Bangladesh 100 times and eaten this 100 times
0:41:53 > 0:41:55and never have I ever seen this being made.
0:42:14 > 0:42:17They've been married 28 years.
0:42:17 > 0:42:21The secret to a successful marriage - make chanachur!
0:42:23 > 0:42:25Making the chanachur is clearly a team job,
0:42:25 > 0:42:28but when it comes to selling the finished product,
0:42:28 > 0:42:30Johir works on his own.
0:42:30 > 0:42:32Six days a week,
0:42:32 > 0:42:35he sets up his stall and stays open until he's sold out.
0:42:39 > 0:42:41We're going for four chillies.
0:42:41 > 0:42:43I did ask for hot!
0:42:43 > 0:42:45When we were younger,
0:42:45 > 0:42:47me and my mum used to love stopping for these in the street
0:42:47 > 0:42:49and we'd compete as to who would have it spiciest.
0:42:49 > 0:42:54I don't know how spicy his spicy is, but I am going to give it a go.
0:42:55 > 0:42:57Johir makes his chanachur to order
0:42:57 > 0:43:01by mixing the fried noodles with his own secret blend of spices.
0:43:04 > 0:43:07And it's all from a great height and...
0:43:10 > 0:43:12Oh, I can smell that. That smells good.
0:43:12 > 0:43:16Some people like it really soft. Some people like it quite crunchy.
0:43:18 > 0:43:21You're not eating it right if you're not eating it out of newspaper.
0:43:23 > 0:43:27It's not a bank statement this time, it's just a newspaper.
0:43:31 > 0:43:33That is the best chanachur I've ever tasted.
0:43:37 > 0:43:39That's, er...
0:43:39 > 0:43:40less than 10p
0:43:40 > 0:43:42in England.
0:43:43 > 0:43:45That is it. That is a cheap snack.
0:43:53 > 0:43:54They've taken a skill,
0:43:54 > 0:43:57simple food that you see everywhere in Bangladesh,
0:43:57 > 0:43:59and they've made it extra special.
0:43:59 > 0:44:01And they've made that their livelihood.
0:44:01 > 0:44:04And they are so proud and they're so happy with what they've done.
0:44:04 > 0:44:06They are proof of the Bangladesh that I know,
0:44:06 > 0:44:08the people that I know of Bangladesh,
0:44:08 > 0:44:11who are always so willing to try and try hard
0:44:11 > 0:44:13to constantly try and improve their lives.
0:44:13 > 0:44:15This is chanachur that's made with love.
0:44:35 > 0:44:38I'm nearing the end of my stay in Bangladesh,
0:44:38 > 0:44:42but before I head back to Sylhet to say goodbye to my family,
0:44:42 > 0:44:44I've heard about an exciting new foodie destination
0:44:44 > 0:44:46and I'm keen to check it out.
0:44:48 > 0:44:50It's a four-hour drive from Sirajganj
0:44:50 > 0:44:52back to the capital city, Dhaka.
0:44:59 > 0:45:01Kazi Food Island is an open-air market
0:45:01 > 0:45:03hosting a collection of food stalls,
0:45:03 > 0:45:07all clustered around a central shared dining space.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10My escort for the evening is Tanim Ahmed,
0:45:10 > 0:45:11a Dhaka-based journalist
0:45:11 > 0:45:14and self-styled gastronomical enthusiast.
0:45:14 > 0:45:18As I walk in, straight away, there are only young people here.
0:45:18 > 0:45:21Yeah. Young, hip, happening.
0:45:21 > 0:45:24They also cater to this kind of crowd. Yeah.
0:45:24 > 0:45:25It's supposed to be loud.
0:45:25 > 0:45:27And the music and the food and everything is...
0:45:27 > 0:45:30I'm feeling a little bit old as a 30-something-year-old
0:45:30 > 0:45:32with three children here. I don't feel like I fit in.
0:45:32 > 0:45:34I feel like a grandfather here!
0:45:34 > 0:45:36This laid-back scene is so different
0:45:36 > 0:45:39from the strict and sheltered culture of my youth.
0:45:39 > 0:45:41I've looked around and there's all these kids
0:45:41 > 0:45:43and they're all in mixed groups.
0:45:43 > 0:45:45There's no chaperones, not one to be seen.
0:45:45 > 0:45:47Right, that's one of the attractions of this place.
0:45:47 > 0:45:50It's not just the vibe of this place that feels new to me.
0:45:50 > 0:45:52The food on sale is also surprising.
0:45:52 > 0:45:53The Bizarre Cafe.
0:45:54 > 0:45:56The names are interesting, aren't they?
0:45:56 > 0:45:58Then you've got all sorts of influences.
0:45:58 > 0:46:01You've got Chinese, you've got American, Italian.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05I don't know about you, but as I stand here, I worry slightly about
0:46:05 > 0:46:07the next generation's waistline.
0:46:07 > 0:46:09You're right to be worried, actually.
0:46:09 > 0:46:14One in every five women is said to be obese in Bangladesh. Really? Yes.
0:46:14 > 0:46:19While I've been travelling, all I've had is rice, curry and lots of fish.
0:46:19 > 0:46:20Right, yes.
0:46:20 > 0:46:23Is all this kind of different types of food,
0:46:23 > 0:46:25is that representative of Dhaka now?
0:46:25 > 0:46:27For a certain level of restaurant, yes.
0:46:29 > 0:46:31It's so popular here, if you want a seat,
0:46:31 > 0:46:33it's a case of sharing a table.
0:46:34 > 0:46:36Can we join you? Yeah?
0:46:38 > 0:46:40What's your favourite thing to eat here?
0:46:40 > 0:46:43The sub sandwich and the cold coffee.
0:46:43 > 0:46:46The cold coffee. Everyone says the cold coffee is really nice.
0:46:46 > 0:46:48Maybe because of the weather.
0:46:48 > 0:46:50Do you guys come here regularly, then? Yeah.
0:46:50 > 0:46:55It's really close to our university. Do you guys study at the university?
0:46:55 > 0:46:56Yeah. OK.
0:46:56 > 0:46:59In Dhaka, I've seen there is a lot more continental foods,
0:46:59 > 0:47:02much like England, where there's lots of different types of country.
0:47:02 > 0:47:03Here, you've got more variety.
0:47:03 > 0:47:07Do you guys find that you guys are cooking more like that at home
0:47:07 > 0:47:10or do you guys just come out to eat like this?
0:47:10 > 0:47:12We just come out and eat like this.
0:47:12 > 0:47:16We don't actually... I don't think most of us cook like that at home.
0:47:16 > 0:47:18If I make dinner for myself,
0:47:18 > 0:47:21then I would go for pastas or steak or mashed potato and so on.
0:47:21 > 0:47:24But if my mum's cooking dinner, she's never going to cook that,
0:47:24 > 0:47:26she's probably going to cook just rice.
0:47:26 > 0:47:29So from, like, the last generation, from our parents' generation,
0:47:29 > 0:47:31that trend does not follow.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33You know, apart from traditional foods,
0:47:33 > 0:47:36we do like to open up to new tastes and all that. So...
0:47:36 > 0:47:39These students, all in their early twenties,
0:47:39 > 0:47:41are clearly connected to the world beyond Bangladesh.
0:47:41 > 0:47:44Do you see yourself staying in Dhaka,
0:47:44 > 0:47:47or do you see yourself going abroad to work?
0:47:47 > 0:47:51We would like to be in Bangladesh and get some corporate experience,
0:47:51 > 0:47:52and then go outside.
0:47:52 > 0:47:56But I personally do not think that staying abroad as a Bangladeshi
0:47:56 > 0:47:58might not be the best option
0:47:58 > 0:48:00because, at the end of the day, I am a Bangladeshi
0:48:00 > 0:48:03and I need to come back and contribute to my country.
0:48:03 > 0:48:05I'd like to go abroad for educational purposes,
0:48:05 > 0:48:06learn new things
0:48:06 > 0:48:10and maybe implement those in my country when I come back.
0:48:10 > 0:48:13So, permanently, staying abroad is probably not an option for us.
0:48:13 > 0:48:17Patriotism to your country, I don't think that's ever changed,
0:48:17 > 0:48:19because, actually, you see all those people
0:48:19 > 0:48:22who do travel abroad and go abroad,
0:48:22 > 0:48:24they spend a lot of their money back in Bangladesh.
0:48:24 > 0:48:27You know, they live in England, but they're kind of...
0:48:27 > 0:48:29Everything comes back here.
0:48:29 > 0:48:31You know, so I suppose in some ways,
0:48:31 > 0:48:33whether you travel there or don't travel there,
0:48:33 > 0:48:35that sense of belonging
0:48:35 > 0:48:39or that loyalty to your country still kind of stays, yeah.
0:48:42 > 0:48:45Got my first selfie in Bangladesh.
0:48:45 > 0:48:47MAN LAUGHS
0:48:49 > 0:48:52This is a very modern Bangladesh that I have yet to experience.
0:48:52 > 0:48:54It's the first time I've experienced something like it.
0:48:54 > 0:48:56This is definitely the other side of the coin.
0:48:56 > 0:48:58I'm used to traditional Bangladesh.
0:48:58 > 0:49:01This is definitely modern Bangladesh.
0:49:01 > 0:49:03You know, you meet these young, articulate people,
0:49:03 > 0:49:07who have got so much to say and, you know, so many hopes and aspirations
0:49:07 > 0:49:10and that's Bangladesh's future, perhaps.
0:49:18 > 0:49:20Two weeks ago, I arrived in Bangladesh, and now,
0:49:20 > 0:49:25over 900 miles and some incredible experiences later,
0:49:25 > 0:49:26my journey is coming to an end.
0:49:29 > 0:49:32The final leg is a six-hour drive from Dhaka
0:49:32 > 0:49:34back to my family village, near Sylhet.
0:49:36 > 0:49:39This is the longest I've spent away from Abdal and the kids,
0:49:39 > 0:49:40who are back home in England,
0:49:40 > 0:49:42and I'm really looking forward to seeing them.
0:49:43 > 0:49:48Just texting Abdal to let him know that I've done a grocery shop.
0:49:48 > 0:49:50Can he be at home on Sunday, please?
0:49:50 > 0:49:54They've got school on Monday, so I'm doing all the packed lunch shopping.
0:49:54 > 0:49:57I'm afraid that he's not going to know what to get them
0:49:57 > 0:49:59and it'll be Jaffa Cakes and crisps!
0:50:03 > 0:50:07I'm heading back to the village to see my family now.
0:50:09 > 0:50:13And I couldn't not see them before going back home to England.
0:50:13 > 0:50:15I think they'll have lots of questions.
0:50:15 > 0:50:17Or at least I hope they have lots of questions,
0:50:17 > 0:50:20because I've got lots to tell them. I've got lots to tell them.
0:50:20 > 0:50:24I want to scream and shout and say, "Guys, get out of the village!
0:50:24 > 0:50:28"Get a car, find a boat, do anything, just leave!
0:50:28 > 0:50:30"Go see it."
0:50:30 > 0:50:32I can't believe I've been able to see parts of Bangladesh
0:50:32 > 0:50:34that a lot of my family members have never seen.
0:50:34 > 0:50:37I feel quite privileged to be able to have done that.
0:50:39 > 0:50:40I love coming home!
0:50:46 > 0:50:48That's full of water now.
0:50:48 > 0:50:50When I left last week,
0:50:50 > 0:50:53it was just slightly in the middle. It's all full.
0:50:53 > 0:50:55Hi, Dad.
0:50:55 > 0:50:57Assalamu alaikum. Walaikum salaam.
0:50:57 > 0:50:59How are you, darling? I'm all right.
0:50:59 > 0:51:01It's always been so important to my dad
0:51:01 > 0:51:03that I feel connected to Bangladesh,
0:51:03 > 0:51:06so I know he's desperate to hear about my trip.
0:51:06 > 0:51:07I could just go on all day
0:51:07 > 0:51:10and tell you about all the things that I've seen, honestly.
0:51:10 > 0:51:13I am officially more Bangladeshi than you are!
0:51:13 > 0:51:15I'm proud. I'm proud.
0:51:15 > 0:51:16Yeah, I know you are.
0:51:16 > 0:51:17I'm so proud that you have seen it
0:51:17 > 0:51:19and you can at least influence your children.
0:51:19 > 0:51:21Dad, can we have some otters?
0:51:21 > 0:51:23THEY LAUGH
0:51:23 > 0:51:26My mum and dad will be returning to the UK soon.
0:51:27 > 0:51:30It's the rest of my family I need to say goodbye to.
0:51:30 > 0:51:32And especially my grandma.
0:51:52 > 0:51:53She gets really upset.
0:51:53 > 0:51:55She always says that whenever she sees us,
0:51:55 > 0:51:57she feels like it's the last time that she'll see us.
0:52:06 > 0:52:07For my last dinner here,
0:52:07 > 0:52:11I'm cooking a comforting beef curry with garlic and paprika-spiced okra
0:52:11 > 0:52:14and some simple rice chapatis.
0:52:14 > 0:52:17And because I always prefer to chat while I cook,
0:52:17 > 0:52:21my cousins Sumi and Iva are joining me in the kitchen.
0:52:27 > 0:52:29OK, come on.
0:52:29 > 0:52:31Iva, we'll give you the easy jobs.
0:52:31 > 0:52:33Yes, please. Come on, then.
0:52:33 > 0:52:36The beef curry that I'm doing is just a classic beef curry.
0:52:36 > 0:52:39It doesn't have any vegetables in it,
0:52:39 > 0:52:41it's just beef and spices and lots of onions.
0:52:41 > 0:52:44And traditionally, when you make a big pot of beef curry,
0:52:44 > 0:52:46you always have it with rice chapatis.
0:52:46 > 0:52:49So we're going to make a few of those today.
0:52:49 > 0:52:50And...
0:52:51 > 0:52:53..it's going to be easy work, because I've got lots of help.
0:52:53 > 0:52:56Extra hands are essential,
0:52:56 > 0:52:58because there are no mod cons in my grandma's kitchen.
0:52:58 > 0:53:00Take this here. Put that on top.
0:53:04 > 0:53:07I've got Iva doing the okra for me, so she's splitting them lengthways.
0:53:07 > 0:53:09I'm having a feeble attempt
0:53:09 > 0:53:12at peeling all this ginger and garlic and onions.
0:53:12 > 0:53:16And Sumi, she's the human food processor.
0:53:18 > 0:53:22But Mum's just keeping an eye on the fire for us and washing the meat,
0:53:22 > 0:53:25and keeping the cat away. Mum, you want to keep the cat away!
0:53:26 > 0:53:28Everyone's got back pain.
0:53:28 > 0:53:29Our mums...
0:53:29 > 0:53:32Our mums are always complaining about having really bad backs.
0:53:32 > 0:53:34We know why.
0:53:35 > 0:53:38I'm quite looking forward to getting back to my own kitchen,
0:53:38 > 0:53:40with its work surfaces and familiar knives.
0:53:48 > 0:53:51I'm too slow. I'm going to have to practise and come back
0:53:51 > 0:53:52so I can be a bit faster.
0:53:52 > 0:53:57This time last week, I was on a rocket steamer,
0:53:57 > 0:54:00boat, cooking for the captain.
0:54:01 > 0:54:03Wow. What did you cook?
0:54:03 > 0:54:08What did I cook? I cooked a mutton biryani,
0:54:08 > 0:54:11and they really liked it. I was really surprised, actually.
0:54:11 > 0:54:13Did you do any shopping?
0:54:13 > 0:54:15For the first time in my life, I didn't actually come for shopping.
0:54:15 > 0:54:17Oh.
0:54:17 > 0:54:18Are you slightly disappointed?
0:54:18 > 0:54:20Yeah!
0:54:21 > 0:54:24So you didn't get anything? Not really, no. Nothing? Nah.
0:54:26 > 0:54:28I still feel out of my depth here.
0:54:28 > 0:54:30I need to go back down to gas mark one.
0:54:30 > 0:54:33Don't quite know how to do it. I'm going to set myself on fire.
0:54:33 > 0:54:36Right, no. That didn't work. OK, let's just go with it.
0:54:36 > 0:54:38Sumi is making the chapati dough
0:54:38 > 0:54:41by adding rice flour to boiling salted water.
0:54:41 > 0:54:43Right, I've got bay leaves.
0:54:43 > 0:54:46When you're looking for bay leaves, they're always above your head.
0:54:46 > 0:54:50I'm making the beef curry and the first job is to get the base going.
0:54:50 > 0:54:54So I've got my oil and then I've put my whole spices,
0:54:54 > 0:54:59so cinnamon, cardamom and some bay leaves, and I've added my...
0:54:59 > 0:55:04that Sumi did for me, my ginger, my garlic and my onion paste.
0:55:04 > 0:55:06That just needs about ten minutes' cooking
0:55:06 > 0:55:08and then it's time to add the beef.
0:55:10 > 0:55:14I'll miss the fun that comes with cooking in a kitchen like this.
0:55:14 > 0:55:15I definitely have a different appreciation
0:55:15 > 0:55:19for how hard everybody works just to cook one meal.
0:55:20 > 0:55:23The final stage is to add some whole green chillies...
0:55:25 > 0:55:30..and the ground spices, turmeric, chilli, cumin and curry powder.
0:55:31 > 0:55:34And then that just needs to tick away for about half an hour
0:55:34 > 0:55:38while Sumi finishes the chapatis and Iva and I make the okra.
0:55:38 > 0:55:40I'll do the oil bit and you do the rest.
0:55:40 > 0:55:43We're coating the okra in a delicious blend of salt,
0:55:43 > 0:55:45garlic powder and dried chilli flakes.
0:55:48 > 0:55:52Heat the oil up, throw it in, two minutes, out. That's it.
0:55:52 > 0:55:54I'm adding some fresh coriander to the curry,
0:55:54 > 0:55:58and as soon as the okra and chapatis are done, it will be ready to serve.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02Going to all head over to Dad's, get together,
0:56:02 > 0:56:04have our last meal together as a family
0:56:04 > 0:56:07and then just, yeah, enjoy the night and say goodbye.
0:56:09 > 0:56:11Mum, you know your coconut samosas?
0:56:11 > 0:56:12I gave away your secret, I'm sorry.
0:56:12 > 0:56:16It's OK. I've got another secret. Are you going to tell me?
0:56:16 > 0:56:18She's not going to tell me anything any more.
0:56:18 > 0:56:19She's not going to tell me anything
0:56:19 > 0:56:22because I'll just put it in a cookbook or something.
0:56:22 > 0:56:24They liked your recipe, Mum. Thank you.
0:56:37 > 0:56:40Coming to Bangladesh and teaching my children about Bangladesh
0:56:40 > 0:56:42was never really that important to me,
0:56:42 > 0:56:43but it feels important to me now.
0:56:43 > 0:56:46You enjoy yourself? Yeah. Good.
0:56:46 > 0:56:48I've always called Bangladesh "back home",
0:56:48 > 0:56:50because that's what my dad called it.
0:56:50 > 0:56:52But I know why it's "back home" now.
0:56:52 > 0:56:53I know why it's "back home".
0:56:53 > 0:56:56And I'm not going to leave it another decade
0:56:56 > 0:56:58to come back.
0:56:58 > 0:57:00I went into complete strangers' homes
0:57:00 > 0:57:02and fed them things that they had never seen
0:57:02 > 0:57:05and they cooked for me and we ate together.
0:57:05 > 0:57:10And despite the language barriers and despite the cultural barriers,
0:57:10 > 0:57:12despite everything, we could sit down in the same place
0:57:12 > 0:57:14and be together.
0:57:14 > 0:57:16I've learned so much about the people.
0:57:16 > 0:57:18But I've learned stuff about myself, as well.
0:57:18 > 0:57:21To be able to experience it properly
0:57:21 > 0:57:23in parts of it that I've not seen before,
0:57:23 > 0:57:25you know, it's given me an opportunity
0:57:25 > 0:57:27to see really, actually, where do I belong.
0:57:27 > 0:57:29I'm British, I'm a Muslim,
0:57:29 > 0:57:32I'm Bangladeshi, and I'm proud of all three.