0:00:02 > 0:00:05We've packed our passports.
0:00:05 > 0:00:07And bought our phrase books.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09HE SPEAKS FALTERING JAPANESE
0:00:09 > 0:00:14Because we're off on our biggest, craziest adventure yet.
0:00:14 > 0:00:19ALL: Delicious, delicious, miaow miaow beeeeee!
0:00:21 > 0:00:23HE YODELS LIKE TARZAN
0:00:23 > 0:00:27We're travelling further than we've ever done before.
0:00:27 > 0:00:31To uncover the authentic roots of Britain's favourite takeaway foods.
0:00:31 > 0:00:35I've always wanted to know how to make proper sweet and sour sauce.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37Going off the beaten track
0:00:37 > 0:00:40and being welcomed into some of Asia's hidden worlds.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43How marvellous is this?!
0:00:45 > 0:00:48From the high rises and hot woks of Hong Kong...
0:00:48 > 0:00:50The heat on this is really, really intense.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53But listen, it's like a jet engine!
0:00:53 > 0:00:55I love it!
0:00:55 > 0:00:58To the sweltering tropics of Thailand...
0:00:58 > 0:00:59We love a Tuk-Tuk!
0:00:59 > 0:01:02..where they say it's impossible to eat badly.
0:01:02 > 0:01:04Thai food's arrived in Britain,
0:01:04 > 0:01:07but by crikey, it's only the tip of the iceberg.
0:01:07 > 0:01:12And we fulfil a lifelong ambition, to explore Japan.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15- That is perfect.- Wow, look at that.
0:01:15 > 0:01:16I've just had a sushi-gasm!
0:01:18 > 0:01:20We finish up in South Korea,
0:01:20 > 0:01:23where the spicy cuisine is sensational.
0:01:23 > 0:01:26This is will go down a bomb down the local.
0:01:28 > 0:01:30So leather up and take to the road.
0:01:31 > 0:01:33For one extremely hairy...
0:01:33 > 0:01:35BOTH: Asian adventure!
0:01:53 > 0:01:56We're on a journey of discovery through Japan.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59There's so much more to Japanese cuisine than sushi.
0:01:59 > 0:02:04It's our all-time favourite food in the world.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07And we want to find out more about the traditions that created it
0:02:07 > 0:02:09and made it so good.
0:02:09 > 0:02:14We're on a pilgrimage to Japan's spiritual centre.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17Enlightenment is ours.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21We're taking the old road to the iconic Mount Fuji
0:02:21 > 0:02:25before finishing our trip in the ancient capital of Kyoto.
0:02:28 > 0:02:29And what a road it is!
0:02:29 > 0:02:31Japan's a biker's paradise,
0:02:31 > 0:02:35and home to four of the world's biggest motorcycle manufacturers.
0:02:38 > 0:02:42I tell you what, these work on a nice, dry road, don't they? Whoa!
0:02:42 > 0:02:45And actually motorcycling around Mount Fuji,
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- it don't get much better, does it? - No.
0:02:49 > 0:02:53'Sunday's the day for biking in Japan and this is the place to come:
0:02:53 > 0:02:56'Mount Fuji National Park.
0:02:56 > 0:02:58'Home to one of the country's three holy mountains
0:02:58 > 0:03:00'and its spiritual heart.
0:03:00 > 0:03:05'This is the most visited park in the country and I can see why.'
0:03:07 > 0:03:09There's a serenity to the lake,
0:03:09 > 0:03:11- it's beautiful, isn't it? - Oh, it's gorgeous.
0:03:11 > 0:03:14Do you know, Si, it reminds me of the Great Lakes in Italy,
0:03:14 > 0:03:17like Maggiore and Como.
0:03:17 > 0:03:19Yes. I know exactly what you mean.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24You know what, we're lucky to even be here, Kingy.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26Until 150 years ago,
0:03:26 > 0:03:29Japan was completely cut off from the outside world.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32No-one was allowed in and anyone trying to leave
0:03:32 > 0:03:33faced the death penalty!
0:03:34 > 0:03:38That explains why traditional Japanese food hasn't really changed.
0:03:40 > 0:03:44'And there's no better place to see the old ways in action,
0:03:44 > 0:03:47'than this little town in the shadow of the mountain.'
0:03:47 > 0:03:52- We made it, mate. Fujiyoshida. - Home of Japan's finest udon noodles.
0:03:52 > 0:03:57And we're going to be taught how to make noodles by a noodle master.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03Along with rice, noodles are at the heart of virtually every meal here.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05Well, it's like potatoes are to us.
0:04:07 > 0:04:11Udon noodles are traditionally eaten before you climb Mount Fuji
0:04:11 > 0:04:14to help purify you for your pilgrimage.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17They're the big fat white ones that look like worms.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19But don't let that put you off... they're delicious!
0:04:19 > 0:04:24This is the oldest noodle restaurant in Fujiyoshida.
0:04:24 > 0:04:29This place has not changed its recipe for 123 years.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32And it's made with spring water from Mount Fuji.
0:04:32 > 0:04:33It's essentially very simple,
0:04:33 > 0:04:35but if you're going to get a right noodle,
0:04:35 > 0:04:38this is one has got to be the best.
0:04:38 > 0:04:42The restaurant's run by fourth generation noodle maker Mr Osawo,
0:04:42 > 0:04:47who likes to be called Oji San, which means Grandpa.
0:04:47 > 0:04:52- Hello, hello, hello.- How long has Oji San been making noodles?
0:04:52 > 0:04:54HE SPEAKS JAPANESE
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- 63 years. Now.- That's a lot of very happy tummies.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03So how old is Oji San?
0:05:04 > 0:05:10- 80-years-old.- 80? - Noodles keep you young!- Yeah!
0:05:12 > 0:05:14Oji San is training his grandson Yasuhiro
0:05:14 > 0:05:18in the dark art of noodle making.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- That's the real thing, Si. That's what we've come for. - It's unbelievable.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25- Wow. That's amazing. - Proper hand-cut noodles.- Yeah, yeah.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31This is one of the finest noodle shops in Japan
0:05:31 > 0:05:33and we are very privileged to be here and very excited.
0:05:33 > 0:05:35So what's the first step?
0:05:35 > 0:05:39THEY CONVERSE IN JAPANESE
0:05:43 > 0:05:47First of all, put the udon dough on the plate.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- What's the dough made from? - Flour.- Yep.
0:05:50 > 0:05:52- Salt.- Yeah. Water.
0:05:52 > 0:05:55- Very simple, very pure.- That's it.
0:05:55 > 0:05:56'They might be cut by hand, Kingy,
0:05:56 > 0:05:59'but the process starts with a bit of fancy footwork.'
0:05:59 > 0:06:02"STRICTLY COME DANCING" THEME PLAYS
0:06:02 > 0:06:04'And I'm just the man for the job!'
0:06:09 > 0:06:12- Gentle, gentle.- Slowly.- Slow.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15The finest noodles in the world under a Cumbrian's feet.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17It's quite awesome, really.
0:06:17 > 0:06:22'Once the dough has been pounded into submission, it's rolled and sliced.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27'That's sliced, Kingy, not sawed!'
0:06:30 > 0:06:33So it's just one cut, is it, just one?
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- Ahhh!- I didn't cut through! Ohh!
0:06:39 > 0:06:43We'll just gloss over that bit, that's what he's saying, I think.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48This is not noodles. This is going to be garbage.
0:06:48 > 0:06:50ALL LAUGH
0:06:51 > 0:06:56- It's tough love, Si.- Once you know the tricks, then you can be better.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59OJI SAN SPEAKS JAPANESE
0:06:59 > 0:07:01How long did you have to put up with this for
0:07:01 > 0:07:03before you worked in the shop?
0:07:03 > 0:07:05HE SPEAKS JAPANESE
0:07:07 > 0:07:10He cut every day for 15 years.
0:07:10 > 0:07:12Most doctorates and degrees and PhDs
0:07:12 > 0:07:14don't even last as long as 15 years,
0:07:14 > 0:07:18in terms of your, you know, in terms of your apprenticeship
0:07:18 > 0:07:21to cutting noodles, I mean, that's quite remarkable.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26'The noodles cook for seven minutes exactly in boiling water.'
0:07:28 > 0:07:30No, no, no.
0:07:33 > 0:07:35You have to practise much more, more.
0:07:37 > 0:07:38Ahhh!
0:07:38 > 0:07:40He's worn a notch out of his stick!
0:07:40 > 0:07:43Just by the...
0:07:43 > 0:07:46'The portions are measured out by the bowlful
0:07:46 > 0:07:48'but even this takes years of training.'
0:07:50 > 0:07:51It's too much.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54Ah, no, no, no. It's wrong.
0:07:57 > 0:07:59So, no hold it, just straight out.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03In the bowl. Ohh!
0:08:03 > 0:08:04No, this is wrong.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06HE SPEAKS JAPANESE
0:08:06 > 0:08:09Don't what the problem is. It's only putting noodles in a bowl!
0:08:09 > 0:08:12It's not as easy as it looks.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17I give up! It's never going to happen.
0:08:17 > 0:08:19Some things I think are best left
0:08:19 > 0:08:22as one of life little mysteries, don't you?
0:08:27 > 0:08:29'The Japanese are obsessed with noodles
0:08:29 > 0:08:32'and they've perfected the art of noodle diversification.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34'There are hundreds of variations on the theme
0:08:34 > 0:08:37'but one of the most popular is ramen.'
0:08:39 > 0:08:42Ramen noodles are thinner and longer than udon
0:08:42 > 0:08:44and are served in a hearty soup.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48They became popular in Japan after the Second World War,
0:08:48 > 0:08:50and today these comforting noodles
0:08:50 > 0:08:54are a favourite fast food choice in the UK as well,
0:08:54 > 0:08:55thanks to chains of noodle bars.
0:08:57 > 0:08:59When you've had enough purity,
0:08:59 > 0:09:01when you've got bored with the seasonality,
0:09:01 > 0:09:06when you want a mucky noodle, a filthy noodle, you want ramen!
0:09:06 > 0:09:11Yes! The happy face noodle. Look at that.
0:09:13 > 0:09:15'And in the foothills of Mount Fuji,
0:09:15 > 0:09:17'we're going to make our own ramen soup
0:09:17 > 0:09:20'with pork broth and marinated soft boiled eggs.'
0:09:20 > 0:09:24They're full of thick, sticky, fatty, porky broth.
0:09:24 > 0:09:26You've got belly pork on the top.
0:09:26 > 0:09:28You've got tamago eggs which are like
0:09:28 > 0:09:31the best kind of semi hard-boiled egg in the world.
0:09:31 > 0:09:34It's kind of, new food, it was born in the 1950s,
0:09:34 > 0:09:37it's food to free the shackles of oppression.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41These boys are ramen rock-and-roll noodles.
0:09:41 > 0:09:43But ramen, it's all about the stock.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46That's what people are going bonkers for in the ramen shops.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48And people who own ramen shops,
0:09:48 > 0:09:51they closely guard the secret of their stock,
0:09:51 > 0:09:53but they'll have pork bones going for two days,
0:09:53 > 0:09:58three days, just this intense, fatty, meaty, tasty broth.
0:09:58 > 0:10:02And it clings to the noodle, like a climber on a rock face.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05You know, the great thing about ramen, it's sticky when you eat it.
0:10:05 > 0:10:07It sticks to your lips, and all that fat content. Ohh!
0:10:07 > 0:10:11And when you slurp ramen, it's messy, it gets on your glasses,
0:10:11 > 0:10:13in your hair, in your head but it's part of the gig.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17Now, the broth, it's quite specific.
0:10:17 > 0:10:22In here, I've got a pan, with two and a half litres of water.
0:10:22 > 0:10:24Yes, it does happen to be spa water from Mount Fuji,
0:10:24 > 0:10:26but you know, tap will do.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30So this is a piece of combu seaweed, and it's been soaking in that
0:10:30 > 0:10:33two and a half litres of water for about half an hour.
0:10:33 > 0:10:37You can buy combu seaweed in Asian supermarkets back home.
0:10:37 > 0:10:40Now, what we do is we cut this into three strips.
0:10:43 > 0:10:44You've got to be careful.
0:10:44 > 0:10:47You put this in here, and we bring this to the boil.
0:10:47 > 0:10:51As soon as it's on the boil, we take the combu out and discard it.
0:10:51 > 0:10:52If you boil it with the combu in,
0:10:52 > 0:10:55it's going to taste like a fisherman's wellington
0:10:55 > 0:10:58and that's not the effect we're after.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00There we are. That's just coming to a nice poach.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06Remove the combu and add some sake, dried shitake mushrooms,
0:11:06 > 0:11:09an onion, ginger and some tuna flakes,
0:11:09 > 0:11:12which you can buy in Asian supermarkets or online.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15I love these big chopsticks. I feel proper.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19This dish has regional variations
0:11:19 > 0:11:21and round here they love pork ramen.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25So what I'm doing is I'm just rinsing the grease off it.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27What we want to do is,
0:11:27 > 0:11:30we don't want any of that to go into our stock.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34- No, we want the pure flavours, you know.- There you are, dear fellow.
0:11:34 > 0:11:35And in they go!
0:11:37 > 0:11:38Cover that up.
0:11:38 > 0:11:40The stock needs to bubble away for three hours.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43While it's doing its stuff, I'm going to show you something
0:11:43 > 0:11:47that'll make your ramen look and taste like the real deal.
0:11:47 > 0:11:49It's a hard-boiled egg garnish.
0:11:49 > 0:11:50But, like everything Japanese,
0:11:50 > 0:11:53it is the most perfect hard-boiled egg you've ever had.
0:11:53 > 0:11:54It's runny in the middle,
0:11:54 > 0:11:57and it's marinated for 12 hours in Japanese spices.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01'And of course the Japanese have a gadget for everything.'
0:12:01 > 0:12:05This is something you won't find at home. This is a tamago egg mould.
0:12:05 > 0:12:09You can have shaped eggs. You can have heart-shaped soft boiled eggs.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13- Star-shaped soft boiled eggs. - It's genius.
0:12:13 > 0:12:16Pop a soft-boiled egg that's been cooked for exactly six minutes
0:12:16 > 0:12:19into the mould and immerse the whole thing
0:12:19 > 0:12:22in a marinade of soy, mirin and sake.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26It's just like pickled eggs in pubs. I like pickled eggs.
0:12:26 > 0:12:28After 12 hours - yes, I know, 12 hours -
0:12:28 > 0:12:31you'll have the perfect garnish for your ramen.
0:12:31 > 0:12:33Simples.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37- Oh!- Now, that's the lovely broth. That's what we're after.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41And then add even more flavour. Fresh shitake mushrooms,
0:12:41 > 0:12:45ginger and garlic, and these gorgeous shimegi mushrooms
0:12:45 > 0:12:49which are perfect in soup or stir fries. That's it. Job done!
0:12:51 > 0:12:54Now, we are nearly at the end of the noodle path at the top of Mount Fuji.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57The time has come to achieve enlightenment perfection
0:12:57 > 0:12:59in the way of the ramen.
0:12:59 > 0:13:02Fresh noodles like these only need a couple of minutes to blanche.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05Then, right at the end, you add your meat.
0:13:05 > 0:13:08We're using some slow-cooked char sui pork
0:13:08 > 0:13:11but leftovers from a roast would do just as well.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15Layer up the ramen noodles, slices of pork, spring onions
0:13:15 > 0:13:17and enoki mushrooms.
0:13:17 > 0:13:19And now the broth, lots of broth.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26Nice.
0:13:26 > 0:13:28Top with more pork, some spring onions
0:13:28 > 0:13:31and the piece de resistance - the egg!
0:13:31 > 0:13:33It looks like a builder's bum, not a heart!
0:13:35 > 0:13:38You too, Japanese builder's butt-crack eggs.
0:13:38 > 0:13:43- Oh, that's what you're after. - Yeah, look.
0:13:43 > 0:13:45That will sit on top of the noodles.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50'Finish off with a flourish of tuna flakes.'
0:13:50 > 0:13:52Look at that, dude, I love how they move.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56As the Japanese say, when you want ramen, there's only ramen'll do.
0:13:56 > 0:13:59It's true. It's comfort food for Japan.
0:14:01 > 0:14:07Well, this is the first time, mate. We've made ramen in Japan.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12On the shores of a lake in the foothills of Mount Fuji.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15THEY SLURP LOUDLY
0:14:15 > 0:14:17Mmmm!
0:14:17 > 0:14:21- It's rich.- It's sweet, savoury.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24All those flavours that you expect from Japanese cuisine.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26And all the textural differences as well.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28We can't thank Japan enough
0:14:28 > 0:14:32for giving the world the ultimate comfort food.
0:14:34 > 0:14:35Mind, it's a clean shirt.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49That's it, Dave, Fuji's right behind those clouds now.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53I can sense it, Kingy, I can sense it. The spirit is nearly upon me.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57But the visuals are sadly lacking at the minute.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01'Mount Fuji is the most climbed mountain in the world.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03'But the summit's only visible for about 100 days a year,
0:15:03 > 0:15:07'and it's sod's law that today isn't one of them.'
0:15:08 > 0:15:12Kingy, there's like a cutout Mount Fuji sign on the traffic lights.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14I tell you what, mate, at this rate,
0:15:14 > 0:15:16the cutout is about as much as we'll see.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25It's about your spiritual imagination
0:15:25 > 0:15:27rather than the physical entity, dude.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30- Yeah, but it's enigmatic, because we know it's there.- Exactly.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32It's shrouded in a veil of mystery.
0:15:51 > 0:15:53This is Mount Fuji.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59The sacred mountain, the giver of water for the noodles.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03- It's kind of otherworldly, isn't it?- It is.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06I think making the noodles was kind of slightly ethereal.
0:16:06 > 0:16:09- The attention to detail, the madness of the noodle.- Yeah. Yeah.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12And then, you know, it's all beginning to make sense.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17- It's just incredible. What a privilege.- Oh, yeah.
0:16:17 > 0:16:18Look at that, man.
0:16:18 > 0:16:20If we've got off to a start like this,
0:16:20 > 0:16:22imagine what Kyoto has got to offer us.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26- Oh, man, it's just going to be amazing.- It makes you giggle! - It does.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30- Hey, we're lucky.- We are that, mate.
0:16:30 > 0:16:32'It's really special up here.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36'There's not much that could add to the tranquillity and peace, eh, Kingy?
0:16:36 > 0:16:38'Except perhaps a mountain spa.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41'If you're of a nervous disposition, you might want to look away now.'
0:16:46 > 0:16:48HE GASPS
0:16:50 > 0:16:51Oh, it's hot!
0:16:53 > 0:16:56Aaagh!
0:16:56 > 0:16:58Whoa-hoo!
0:16:58 > 0:16:59It's poaching.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- This is called the black bath.- Is it?
0:17:02 > 0:17:04Yeah. Fuelled with the health-giving properties
0:17:04 > 0:17:06of the waters from Mount Fuji.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09Indeed, volcanic waters, these are, heated by volcanic springs.
0:17:09 > 0:17:13Said to cure rheumatism, myalgia, haemorrhoids.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16- Anything that the biker may come down with.- What about neuroses?
0:17:16 > 0:17:18- You could do with some of that, you. - Shut your face.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24But, you know, it is an active volcano, one tends to forget that.
0:17:24 > 0:17:28- And it hasn't blown off since 1707. - Unlike you.
0:17:28 > 0:17:30Will you shut up and enjoy the waters?
0:17:32 > 0:17:36I am enjoying the waters immensely. Where's your flannel?
0:17:36 > 0:17:38Cos you can't dip your flannel in the water,
0:17:38 > 0:17:40you can't pollute the waters with soap.
0:17:40 > 0:17:43So what you do is, you put your flannel on your head
0:17:43 > 0:17:46so you don't pollute the waters and you don't lose your flannel.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50It's genius. So you sit, chatting, with a flannel on your head.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52It's tradition.
0:17:52 > 0:17:53'Is it?
0:17:53 > 0:17:56'Well, tranquil and purified, we're ready for Kyoto,
0:17:56 > 0:17:58'Japan's ancient capital.'
0:18:09 > 0:18:12It definitely feels like the ancient capital of Japan.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15- Beautiful, isn't it? - Fabulous. It's like a film set.
0:18:15 > 0:18:16It does, doesn't it?
0:18:16 > 0:18:20'Japan was a vegetarian country for over a thousand years
0:18:20 > 0:18:23'and has some of the best vegetarian cuisine in the world.
0:18:23 > 0:18:26'The very best is found not in Kyoto's swanky restaurants
0:18:26 > 0:18:28'but in the Buddhist temples.'
0:18:31 > 0:18:34Now, this is going to be interesting.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37Oh, you can see the architecture's changing as well a bit, isn't it?
0:18:37 > 0:18:38Yeah, yeah.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43'We're lucky enough to have been invited to break our journey
0:18:43 > 0:18:45'and stay the night at the temple.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48'We've arrived late but the monks have left the key under the mat,
0:18:48 > 0:18:50'so we can let ourselves in.'
0:18:52 > 0:18:56- Cor, this is a chance to take a breath, isn't it?- Isn't it just.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58This is part of our pilgrimage to find
0:18:58 > 0:19:01the kind of roots of Japanese cuisine.
0:19:01 > 0:19:03We're lucky enough to get to sleep here,
0:19:03 > 0:19:06then we're lucky enough to get up and learn a few things about what
0:19:06 > 0:19:09is possibly the best vegetarian food in the world.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12We get to help to cook breakfast, which is going to be interesting.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14We have to get up early, we have to cook breakfast,
0:19:14 > 0:19:17we have to help in the garden, then do a bit of cooking of our own.
0:19:17 > 0:19:19How lovely is that?
0:19:19 > 0:19:24'But first, after a long day on the road, we need our beauty sleep.'
0:19:29 > 0:19:33Kyoto is home to 1,600 temples.
0:19:33 > 0:19:35Buddhism has been part of the country's culture
0:19:35 > 0:19:37since the 6th century
0:19:37 > 0:19:41and Shinto philosophy is at the heart of Japan's day to day life.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49'The monks' day starts at sunrise with meditation,
0:19:49 > 0:19:54'but head priest Reverend Daiko has taken pity on our tired bones
0:19:54 > 0:19:57'and let us sleep in, waking us up in time for breakfast.'
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- Morning.- Good morning. - So, it's 6.30.
0:20:00 > 0:20:05- Is it?- Yeah. So, you're supposed to make your breakfast.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07- OK.- So we have to move.
0:20:07 > 0:20:08'Come on, mate!
0:20:08 > 0:20:10'The chef who cooks the monks' food
0:20:10 > 0:20:13'also works at a Michelin-starred restaurant, no less.
0:20:13 > 0:20:17'And we're going to help him make breakfast. Up and at 'em!'
0:20:21 > 0:20:23Forget cereal and toast!
0:20:23 > 0:20:27We're making two types of soup and five side dishes.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- Shiba-san.- Nice to see you.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- Thank you.- Great to see you. Thank you.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42'Chef Shiba tasks us with making tofu dumplings.
0:20:42 > 0:20:45'I think this is penance for oversleeping this morning.'
0:20:46 > 0:20:51- So, you're mashing the tofu to make it smoother.- Yeah.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- It's a lot of work.- Yeah. - It's a lot of discipline.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- Which is part of being a monk!- Yes.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02This type of cooking has a special name in Japan - Shojin Ryori.
0:21:02 > 0:21:05The pursuit of enlightenment through cooking.
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- And presumably, this cuisine purifies your body as well?- Yes.
0:21:20 > 0:21:25'For the Zen Buddhist, cooking is considered a type of meditation.
0:21:25 > 0:21:28'The aim is to banish worldly thoughts, focus on the food
0:21:28 > 0:21:30'and aim for limitless perfection.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33'We could learn a lot from these monks, Kingy.'
0:21:33 > 0:21:36There is a feeling of wanting to get it right, isn't there?
0:21:36 > 0:21:40'The dumplings are stuffed with edamame beans, potato
0:21:40 > 0:21:45'and gingko nuts, which some people believe help with mood and memory.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47'They should always be used in moderation though
0:21:47 > 0:21:50'as they're poisonous if eaten to excess.'
0:21:51 > 0:21:55The Shojin cuisine looks very easy to cook.
0:21:55 > 0:21:57But it's the most difficult.
0:21:59 > 0:22:02'The attention to detail in plating up is everything you'd expect
0:22:02 > 0:22:06'from a Michelin-starred chef, but with added value.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10'Buddhist philosophy dictates every meal should include five colours,
0:22:10 > 0:22:15'white, red, black, yellow and green.
0:22:15 > 0:22:16'As well as looking lovely,
0:22:16 > 0:22:20'it also helps make sure you're getting all your vitamins.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25'With food like this on offer every day, no wonder there's been
0:22:25 > 0:22:28'a sharp rise in the number of Buddhist monks in recent years!
0:22:28 > 0:22:30'Monks can also get married and have families,
0:22:30 > 0:22:33'so that probably helps with the recruitment drive.
0:22:33 > 0:22:35THE MONKS CHANT
0:22:40 > 0:22:42'A monk should always eat healthily and in moderation
0:22:42 > 0:22:45'so portion sizes are small.
0:22:45 > 0:22:48'Which is something else we could learn from the monks, don't you think?'
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- So, please enjoy.- Thank you.
0:22:58 > 0:23:04- Oh!- Anybody ever says tofu is boring, they have to taste this.- Yes.
0:23:04 > 0:23:06This is absolutely gorgeous.
0:23:06 > 0:23:10Is it? I have to say, I have said that tofu is boring.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14- It's so good.- Sesame tofu is... - Oh, wow.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- ..it's very mild.- Oh, yeah.
0:23:17 > 0:23:18'Oh, no.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20'I'm a tofu convert, dude!
0:23:20 > 0:23:23'And those are words I never thought I'd hear coming out of my mouth.'
0:23:25 > 0:23:30Before you were a monk, what did you do?
0:23:30 > 0:23:35- Did you have... You were a student? - Yes, I was a student.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38- Did you go to discos and ride motorcycles?- Yeah!
0:23:38 > 0:23:40So, normal life.
0:23:40 > 0:23:42Normal life.
0:23:42 > 0:23:47So, um, I was a big supporter of Liverpool football club.
0:23:47 > 0:23:49Hurray! Great!
0:23:50 > 0:23:54So, when I was at graduate school,
0:23:54 > 0:23:59after university, I visited Anfield stadium. Yeah, yeah.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02That's a wonderful stadium.
0:24:02 > 0:24:04Yeah, wonderful stadium, yes.
0:24:04 > 0:24:07What was it that made you decide...
0:24:07 > 0:24:09I've seen Anfield, I'm going to be a monk?
0:24:09 > 0:24:12At first I did not want to be a priest.
0:24:12 > 0:24:16Because it is, um... out of fashion, right?
0:24:16 > 0:24:20At that time, I thought it out of fashion.
0:24:20 > 0:24:26- But I felt very honoured to be wanted.- To be part of it.
0:24:26 > 0:24:30- To take over the temple and be part of it.- Yes, yes.
0:24:30 > 0:24:31So that is a bigger reason.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37I think I can honestly say that that was the finest breakfast I've ever had.
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- Really?- Thank you so much. - Thank you very much.
0:24:46 > 0:24:50'After brekkie, the monks meditate for anything up to four hours a day.
0:24:50 > 0:24:53'We've visited many places where meditation
0:24:53 > 0:24:54'is an important part of life,
0:24:54 > 0:24:58'but this is the first chance we've had to try it ourselves.
0:24:58 > 0:25:00'Our spiritual guide is Reverend Taka.'
0:25:02 > 0:25:04You can sit down, crossed legs.
0:25:04 > 0:25:09You can put your left hand just below your belly button like this.
0:25:09 > 0:25:12And put your right hand on the top.
0:25:12 > 0:25:15And then touch your thumbs to each other. Like this way.
0:25:15 > 0:25:18The most important part here is breathing,
0:25:18 > 0:25:19so you just focus on your breathing.
0:25:19 > 0:25:21HE RINGS BELL
0:25:43 > 0:25:46So, please take this gesture, pause and then bow.
0:25:48 > 0:25:50Right.
0:25:50 > 0:25:53Right, you can stretch your legs.
0:25:53 > 0:25:55- Thank you.- Thank you.
0:25:55 > 0:26:00- How was it?- It was lovely.- It's just about being quiet and still.
0:26:00 > 0:26:03And in the modern world we live in, it's very difficult to be that.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10So to be taught how to be quiet and still, is a great thing,
0:26:10 > 0:26:14- isn't it, really?- Yeah. - It's a nice thing to do.
0:26:14 > 0:26:17- And it's going to make us better cooks.- That's always good.
0:26:19 > 0:26:23'In our time at the temple we've been fed literally and spiritually.
0:26:23 > 0:26:27'We want to show our appreciation to the monks by cooking for them.'
0:26:29 > 0:26:33Right. Revitalised by meditation and tea,
0:26:33 > 0:26:34and we are so kind of Buddhist now
0:26:34 > 0:26:37we're going three feet off the ground.
0:26:37 > 0:26:40We're going to do our tribute to Shojin Ryori cooking,
0:26:40 > 0:26:43the Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, which is...
0:26:44 > 0:26:48A tofu, aubergine and lotus fruit stew.
0:26:48 > 0:26:49Oooh!
0:26:49 > 0:26:53This vegetarian dish shows off the region's vegetables
0:26:53 > 0:26:56and the local protein-packed tofu.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00Kyoto is famous for its artisan tofu makers who make it fresh
0:27:00 > 0:27:02every morning like craft bakers do at home.
0:27:03 > 0:27:08Mr King, having had his inner eye opened, has started to enjoy tofu
0:27:08 > 0:27:10after 20 years of abstinence.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13I've always enjoyed tofu in its various forms, be it smoked,
0:27:13 > 0:27:15crispy, soggy, soups.
0:27:17 > 0:27:21- Convert.- I am, I am.- Shall we begin, grasshopper?- We should.- Right.
0:27:21 > 0:27:25Now what I've done here is I've taken some firm tofu
0:27:25 > 0:27:28and cut it into one inch cubes.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31I'm then going to toss it in some rice flour.
0:27:31 > 0:27:34Now, rice flour, get your heads into using rice flour
0:27:34 > 0:27:37because it's a really, really clever ingredient.
0:27:37 > 0:27:41It gives the tofu a bit of a crunch and stops it falling apart
0:27:41 > 0:27:42when it's cooked.
0:27:42 > 0:27:45But also, they'll go slightly puffy.
0:27:45 > 0:27:48And that's, that's what you want.
0:27:48 > 0:27:52While Si's been looking after the tofu, I've been on the veg.
0:27:52 > 0:27:56A finely chopped onion, two leeks and two aubergines.
0:27:57 > 0:27:59It all goes into a hot oiled wok
0:27:59 > 0:28:02with the aubergines around the edge so they'll brown nicely.
0:28:02 > 0:28:05Whilst they're cooking, I'll prepare the ginger and garlic.
0:28:05 > 0:28:10I want four cloves of garlic and two tablespoons of ginger. Yeah.
0:28:10 > 0:28:13That's the garlic and ginger. It's a fair amount.
0:28:14 > 0:28:16Thinly slice some fresh lotus root
0:28:16 > 0:28:19that's been steamed for 30 minutes.
0:28:19 > 0:28:22In the UK you can buy lotus root dried or in cans,
0:28:22 > 0:28:23or if you're really lucky,
0:28:23 > 0:28:26some supermarkets have started to sell it fresh.
0:28:28 > 0:28:32That goes in....with two tablespoons of miso.
0:28:34 > 0:28:36And you saute the miso off for a minute.
0:28:38 > 0:28:41And then add some of our favourite shimeji mushrooms.
0:28:41 > 0:28:45Don't be tempted to eat them raw, they're very bitter.
0:28:45 > 0:28:46But cooked, they're delicious!
0:28:48 > 0:28:51You could use sliced chestnut mushrooms if you wanted.
0:28:51 > 0:28:54But there's something about the delicacy and the flavour of those
0:28:54 > 0:28:56that's perfect. Ready for the liquid?
0:28:56 > 0:28:59- Absolutely, as soon as you can give us it I'll be very happy.- Right.
0:28:59 > 0:29:02300 mls of hot water.
0:29:03 > 0:29:06Then add the two staples of all good Japanese food,
0:29:06 > 0:29:08soy and mirin rice wine.
0:29:10 > 0:29:14Bring the stew to the boil and stir the tofu through.
0:29:14 > 0:29:16That looks lovely, Kingy. All the mixtures.
0:29:16 > 0:29:19Got to be so careful you don't break the tofu up.
0:29:20 > 0:29:23I really, really hope the monk likes this.
0:29:23 > 0:29:25It's nice to give something back.
0:29:25 > 0:29:28I mean, they've been so generous with their food, their time.
0:29:28 > 0:29:31- And just their hospitality.- Yeah.
0:29:31 > 0:29:36Our tofu, aubergine and lotus root stew is a feast fit for a monk.
0:29:36 > 0:29:40And a monk used to eating Michelin-starred cuisine no less!
0:29:40 > 0:29:43That's so tasty. This crispy stuff on top.
0:29:45 > 0:29:51- Thank you, this is wonderful.- Yeah? - Yeah.- Oh, thank you!
0:30:04 > 0:30:07I don't know about you, Kingy, but after all that pursuit of purity,
0:30:07 > 0:30:11I'm craving something just a little bit naughty.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14Well, mate, like an answer to prayer, I've got just the thing.
0:30:14 > 0:30:17We're on the outskirts of Kyoto to cook some fast food
0:30:17 > 0:30:20for a famished five-a-side football team.
0:30:22 > 0:30:24We've arrived at Ancha's place and Ancha cooks...
0:30:24 > 0:30:27Ancha is a master of okonomiyaki, which is...
0:30:27 > 0:30:30Well, it's kind of like a Japanese pizza sort of thingy.
0:30:30 > 0:30:34- No, it's not. It's kind of like a pancake.- It kind of is.
0:30:34 > 0:30:36It's like a bit of a bubble and squeak thing going on,
0:30:36 > 0:30:38but it's fantastic.
0:30:38 > 0:30:43- It's just like real food.- It is. It's fun food, but also...
0:30:43 > 0:30:46- Yeah.- ..look at this.
0:30:46 > 0:30:49- We know it's going to be a good day. - Cos he's a biker!- Get in!
0:30:49 > 0:30:52He's a biker that's a master of okonomiyaki.
0:30:54 > 0:30:56- Can't wait.- Neither can I. It's going to be a corker.
0:30:56 > 0:30:59- Konnichi-wa.- Konnichi-wa. - Konnichi-wa.
0:31:01 > 0:31:04- Nice to meet you.- I'm Dave. - I'm Gan. Nice to meet you.
0:31:04 > 0:31:08'Gan is the footy team's manager and he and the boys always come to
0:31:08 > 0:31:12'Ancha's for okonomiyaki after a match.'
0:31:12 > 0:31:15Ancha, show us how to cook okonomiyaki.
0:31:17 > 0:31:21'In a bowl, you just mix together cabbage, tempura crumbs, red ginger,
0:31:21 > 0:31:23'and a spring onion and an egg.'
0:31:25 > 0:31:28Japanese eggs are fantastic. They've got the biggest yolks.
0:31:28 > 0:31:30Really good eggs in Japan.
0:31:30 > 0:31:33Also, just a little bit of batter.
0:31:33 > 0:31:36- Oh!- Crumbs!
0:31:36 > 0:31:38- That's a thick batter.- Isn't it?
0:31:38 > 0:31:40- That's like a dough, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:31:42 > 0:31:45'Okonomiyaki was a lifesaver during World War II
0:31:45 > 0:31:46'when there was a rice shortage
0:31:46 > 0:31:50'and it's still a great way to make cheap ingredients go a long way.'
0:31:53 > 0:31:55- Oh, man, that looks good.- I know.
0:31:55 > 0:31:58It's the Japanese version of a little bit of what you fancy
0:31:58 > 0:31:59- does you good.- Yeah.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02It's highly calorific, which is why the lads come in and eat it
0:32:02 > 0:32:04and drink beer. It's brilliant.
0:32:04 > 0:32:07The word itself means it can be what you want.
0:32:07 > 0:32:09You can put pork in it. You can put beans in it.
0:32:09 > 0:32:13Here it's just thin slices of belly pork. Look at that. Superb.
0:32:15 > 0:32:16Oh, look, it's moving.
0:32:18 > 0:32:20SIZZLING
0:32:20 > 0:32:23Oh, look at that, man! Ah!
0:32:26 > 0:32:32It's fantastic and there is an insatiable urge just to pick it up
0:32:32 > 0:32:35and go... isn't there?
0:32:35 > 0:32:38- Well, yes.- I want it. - I would like a plate.
0:32:38 > 0:32:40'Hold your horses, dear heart!
0:32:40 > 0:32:44'It's not ready yet. It needs its toppings.'
0:32:44 > 0:32:47- We can choose a sweet sauce or a spicy sauce.- Uh-huh.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51- And what's your preference? - Sweet one.- Sweet one.
0:32:51 > 0:32:54- Oh, he's not shy with the sauce. - Look at that.
0:32:56 > 0:32:59Oh, mate!
0:32:59 > 0:33:00Seasoning.
0:33:00 > 0:33:04'They're finished off with seaweed seasoning and mayonnaise.'
0:33:04 > 0:33:08Oh, look at that. He's even got a cool mayonnaise bottle.
0:33:08 > 0:33:10Ancha, you are the man.
0:33:10 > 0:33:13'Ah, finally, I get to satisfy my insatiable urges.'
0:33:18 > 0:33:21- It's hot.- It's hot, it's lovely, but it's heaven.
0:33:21 > 0:33:23I want to cook these at home.
0:33:23 > 0:33:28The flavour of the seaweed, the sauce, the sweet, the savoury.
0:33:28 > 0:33:33Everything that's in it, and the pork, it's really, really tasty.
0:33:33 > 0:33:36And you get that dough feeling to it as well, which is interesting.
0:33:36 > 0:33:40- There's a definite dough... - Oh, there's a comfort to it.
0:33:40 > 0:33:43- It is a duvet of Japanese love. - It certainly is that.
0:33:43 > 0:33:47'Oh, I could certainly do an okonomiyaki duvet day right now
0:33:47 > 0:33:49'but those boys will be here soon
0:33:49 > 0:33:52'wanting their super-duper bubble-and-squeak-pizza-pancakes.'
0:33:52 > 0:33:54- Ancha-style.- Ancha-style!
0:33:54 > 0:33:57- Gets hotter.- Thank you.
0:33:57 > 0:33:59Make me look cool, Ancha.
0:33:59 > 0:34:02You look like something from a nativity play at the minute.
0:34:02 > 0:34:04- Nice.- Oh, it looks good, dude.
0:34:06 > 0:34:08- Oh, hello, boys.- Hello.
0:34:08 > 0:34:10Right, what are we doing?
0:34:10 > 0:34:12Gentlemen, what can we get you?
0:34:12 > 0:34:18- Pork.- Pork.- Yes.- Pork. Pork? Shrimp?
0:34:18 > 0:34:20Three pork traditional, one shrimp.
0:34:22 > 0:34:24Go on, go on.
0:34:26 > 0:34:29You start laying up, I'll start cracking them out.
0:34:29 > 0:34:30SIZZLING
0:34:30 > 0:34:32Flamin' Nora!
0:34:32 > 0:34:34MEN SIGH
0:34:37 > 0:34:39Looking good, dude, looking good.
0:34:43 > 0:34:46CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
0:34:49 > 0:34:53Boys, why do you like eating okonomiyaki?
0:34:53 > 0:34:56What is it about okonomiyaki that you like?
0:35:00 > 0:35:03He gets power if he eat.
0:35:03 > 0:35:04OK, strength.
0:35:04 > 0:35:06Strong.
0:35:06 > 0:35:09LAUGHTER
0:35:09 > 0:35:12Can we have another one for the little fella?
0:35:18 > 0:35:21I believe we're ready to serve up.
0:35:21 > 0:35:23- Pork?- Sweet?- Pork?
0:35:23 > 0:35:26Not the pork?
0:35:26 > 0:35:28Thank you.
0:35:28 > 0:35:30Thank you.
0:35:36 > 0:35:38Arigatou gozaimasu.
0:35:38 > 0:35:40Sugoi!
0:35:43 > 0:35:45What's it like?
0:35:51 > 0:35:53Good.
0:35:53 > 0:35:55- Delicious.- Delicious? Good.
0:35:55 > 0:35:59- It's been a great privilege.- It has. - Thank you.- Thank you so much.
0:35:59 > 0:36:01Good job.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03CHEERING
0:36:03 > 0:36:06See, he keeps the best for last. That's the sign of a good chef.
0:36:08 > 0:36:11'In spite of the invasion of Western burger joints,
0:36:11 > 0:36:14'okonomiyaki is still the most popular fast food in Japan
0:36:14 > 0:36:17'and you know what, Dave, I'm not at all surprised.'
0:36:19 > 0:36:24- I love that. What a brilliant joint. - What a great experience that was.
0:36:24 > 0:36:29Proper lads. Night out. Bit of a drink, and, hey, what about these?
0:36:29 > 0:36:31- I know.- How beautiful are these? - I'm going to treasure that.
0:36:31 > 0:36:34You know, it's things like this, when you've been away, whenever
0:36:34 > 0:36:38I cook Japanese food at home, the imperial pinny will come on.
0:36:38 > 0:36:42- Make sure you wear something else, mate, and not just that.- Why not?
0:36:42 > 0:36:45- My sumo belt!- Sumo belt?
0:36:45 > 0:36:47THEY LAUGH
0:36:47 > 0:36:50What a thought!
0:36:50 > 0:36:53I just love the diversity of food that Japan has to offer.
0:36:53 > 0:36:57From Michelin-starred vegetarian Buddhist temples and udon noodles
0:36:57 > 0:37:01kneaded by foot, to greasy spoons like Ancha's place and now for the
0:37:01 > 0:37:06Mecca of convenience food the world over - motorway service stations.
0:37:08 > 0:37:10- Japanese lollies.- Get in!
0:37:12 > 0:37:14Ooh, they're good.
0:37:14 > 0:37:17'Unlike in the UK, service stations in Japan are renowned
0:37:17 > 0:37:22'for their speciality snacks and at this one it's all about melon buns.
0:37:22 > 0:37:24'Yes, you heard me, melon buns.
0:37:24 > 0:37:29'5,000 of these fly off the shelves here every day!'
0:37:29 > 0:37:32We have discovered another food epiphany. The melon bun.
0:37:32 > 0:37:35Well, let's face it, the only melon buns we've had in service stations
0:37:35 > 0:37:39is after about 300 miles when you've got a bad saddle.
0:37:39 > 0:37:42- Ooh!- Me melon buns!- Right, come on.
0:37:42 > 0:37:45'Melon buns are similar to iced buns in the UK.
0:37:45 > 0:37:49'An enriched dough with a sweet sugary topping.
0:37:49 > 0:37:52'They're so-called because they look like melons.
0:37:52 > 0:37:55'The question is what do they taste like?'
0:37:55 > 0:37:58My mother-in-law's got a bathroom this colour.
0:38:05 > 0:38:09If you crossed a sponge cake
0:38:09 > 0:38:14with wallpaper paste and nail polish remover, you've got a melon bun.
0:38:14 > 0:38:16Yeah, it's mingin'.
0:38:16 > 0:38:19No, no, no. Don't be a cultural vandal.
0:38:19 > 0:38:22No, no, it's not good, though, mate.
0:38:22 > 0:38:24'Well, we are at a service station, Si.
0:38:24 > 0:38:28'The one place, wherever you are in the world, where all bets are off
0:38:28 > 0:38:31'when it comes to food, whatever it's made of!'
0:38:33 > 0:38:36It's amazing to think that 150 years ago,
0:38:36 > 0:38:38no-one ate meat at all here.
0:38:38 > 0:38:41But everything changed at the end of the 19th century
0:38:41 > 0:38:45when the Emperor was seen eating beef and Japan went meat mad.
0:38:47 > 0:38:51- I mean, it's all right being vegetarian for a bit.- Oh, yeah.
0:38:51 > 0:38:56But, ironically, next door to vegetarianism is possibly
0:38:56 > 0:38:58the world's greatest beef, the wagyu.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02The wagyu in the region and principality of Kobe,
0:39:02 > 0:39:05- and, listen, we've waited 20 years for this, dude.- We have, we have.
0:39:05 > 0:39:06I can't believe it.
0:39:06 > 0:39:09None of this imported stuff that don't taste great.
0:39:09 > 0:39:12This is it. The source of the boeuf Japanese.
0:39:12 > 0:39:14The sauce of carnivorousness.
0:39:14 > 0:39:19Oh, aye, the most expensive, precious, pampered beef in the world.
0:39:19 > 0:39:21I wonder if it's true, Kingy,
0:39:21 > 0:39:24that they feed them beer and they have to listen to opera
0:39:24 > 0:39:28as they lie on silken mattresses and are massaged by sumo wrestlers?
0:39:28 > 0:39:32- Of course it is, got to be. - Yeah, it was worth the money.
0:39:32 > 0:39:34'The word for cow in Japanese is wagyu
0:39:34 > 0:39:37'and Kobe beef is said to be the finest wagyu in the world.'
0:39:38 > 0:39:43Kobe is an important and busy port 50 miles south of Kyoto and is
0:39:43 > 0:39:47world famous for its incredibly tender and expensive beef.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52This heavily marbled, delicious and delicately flavoured meat
0:39:52 > 0:39:56can cost, wait for it, thousands of pounds per kilo.
0:40:03 > 0:40:06Oh, you can tell we're in the country now.
0:40:06 > 0:40:12There's tractor shops, a smell of fried food in the air, and cow dung.
0:40:12 > 0:40:14Perfect. Lovely.
0:40:16 > 0:40:19- Got a whiff of manure then. Did you?- Yeah.
0:40:21 > 0:40:25'This is where you'd expect to see some cows in the fields, but, oh no!
0:40:25 > 0:40:29'These cows are so precious they're not allowed outside!'
0:40:35 > 0:40:39'Mr Takami and his son-in-law Mr Takaaki have been raising
0:40:39 > 0:40:42'prize-winning Kobe beef for nearly 45 years.'
0:40:43 > 0:40:46- Good morning.- Good morning. How are you?- Very nice to meet you.
0:40:46 > 0:40:49- How are you, sir?- Nice to meet you. - Pleased to meet you.
0:40:49 > 0:40:52- Good to see you.- Thank you. It's wonderful to be here.
0:40:52 > 0:40:54We've had several ambitions in Japan.
0:40:54 > 0:40:56One was sushi at the fish market in Tokyo.
0:40:56 > 0:40:59One was to find the best noodles, which we found in Fuji,
0:40:59 > 0:41:04and the third was to taste real Kobe beef in Kobe.
0:41:04 > 0:41:08'But before we're allowed anywhere near Mr Takami's precious cows,
0:41:08 > 0:41:10'we need to be purified...again!'
0:41:11 > 0:41:15Right, Kingy. Dirty boys go in disinfection booth.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17Right, come on. Crack on.
0:41:17 > 0:41:20- What do we do?- I don't know.
0:41:20 > 0:41:24- Smells of disinfectant, that's for sure.- There's a button.
0:41:24 > 0:41:27Don't press the button. Hold on.
0:41:27 > 0:41:30It's not a button, it's a light. Push.
0:41:30 > 0:41:33Oh, that's...
0:41:33 > 0:41:36No, it's not doing anything.
0:41:36 > 0:41:38There must be an on-button.
0:41:38 > 0:41:40Oh, Japanese is confusing.
0:41:40 > 0:41:43- Ah!- Press a button.
0:41:48 > 0:41:51I've had a vasectomy. I don't see why I need to be sanitised.
0:41:51 > 0:41:54- Know what I mean? - It's a mysterious country.
0:41:56 > 0:42:03In England, we heard that the Kobe beef, it leads a life like a prince.
0:42:03 > 0:42:06It's fed beer. It has massages every day.
0:42:06 > 0:42:10It listens to opera music and it lies on a straw bed.
0:42:10 > 0:42:12This is not true?
0:42:12 > 0:42:16Yatte-nai desu.
0:42:19 > 0:42:21- Nobody give it beer at all.- No?
0:42:34 > 0:42:36'I knew it was too good to be true!
0:42:36 > 0:42:40'My dreams of pampered cows are falling apart around my ears
0:42:40 > 0:42:42'or are they?'
0:42:42 > 0:42:45So, look at this, Dave.
0:42:45 > 0:42:47I'd eat that. It's like muesli.
0:42:47 > 0:42:50What's in here? What's the recipe?
0:42:50 > 0:42:54- This is grain. Wheatgrass.- Yeah.
0:42:54 > 0:42:57- And pineapple.- Pineapple?- Yeah.
0:43:00 > 0:43:02- Pineapple did you say?- Yes.
0:43:02 > 0:43:05Wow, so what's the recipe?
0:43:05 > 0:43:10- The recipe is top secret. I can't tell you.- Go on.
0:43:10 > 0:43:13- Go on, nobody'll know. - No. No, no, no, no.
0:43:13 > 0:43:17'I'll get it out of him. I'll play him Japanese opera till he cracks!'
0:43:18 > 0:43:23And another story we believe is that people massage the beef
0:43:23 > 0:43:25which makes for tender beef.
0:43:46 > 0:43:49'Personally, I find that getting my hair brushed always puts me
0:43:49 > 0:43:51'in a really good mood.
0:43:51 > 0:43:53'Maybe there's something in it after all?'
0:43:53 > 0:43:56- Si, he's loving that, isn't he?- Yeah.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59Maybe this is where the myth about massaging comes in.
0:43:59 > 0:44:02'Well, Mr T's clearly doing something right, dude.
0:44:02 > 0:44:04'Just look at all these awards!'
0:44:06 > 0:44:11Oh, wow! Now that is a cabinet of gastronomic delight.
0:44:11 > 0:44:14- It's a farm shop.- It's a farm shop, Jim, but not as we know it.
0:44:14 > 0:44:17This is fantastic.
0:44:17 > 0:44:19'Kobe beef is graded according to how much fat there is
0:44:19 > 0:44:22'marbling the meat.'
0:44:22 > 0:44:26This one is the highest one.
0:44:26 > 0:44:29This is Grade A512.
0:44:29 > 0:44:32- So it's the top in every single category?- Yes.
0:44:32 > 0:44:35A512 is the best beef.
0:44:35 > 0:44:38Do you want to see more?
0:44:38 > 0:44:40Yes, please.
0:44:40 > 0:44:43- Ah.- Ah, wow.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46What is the fat content of that, percentage?
0:44:46 > 0:44:50- Er, almost 60.- 60%.
0:44:50 > 0:44:53So that should be the most spectacular piece of beef
0:44:53 > 0:44:56you've ever eaten because that's full of fat
0:44:56 > 0:44:58and full of flavour theoretically.
0:44:58 > 0:45:02I think that piece of beef retails for around about £3,000.
0:45:02 > 0:45:04Yes, thank you. We'll just put that back.
0:45:04 > 0:45:07Do you eat your own beef?
0:45:10 > 0:45:13Mainichi tabemasu.
0:45:13 > 0:45:14Almost every day.
0:45:14 > 0:45:17- Do you want to cook some? - Yes, please.- We'd love to.
0:45:17 > 0:45:21- This is a defining moment. - I can't believe it, dude, it's here.
0:45:21 > 0:45:23- This is a hat-trick, isn't it? - Yes, it is.
0:45:23 > 0:45:28- You know, the hat-trick. Sushi, noodles, wagyu beef.- Get in!
0:45:28 > 0:45:31More than that, Kobe beef from the farm that's had
0:45:31 > 0:45:34awards for being the best beef in Japan.
0:45:34 > 0:45:37- Doesn't get better than that, does it?- Not for two daft northern lads.
0:45:37 > 0:45:41- What privileged fellas we are. - Thank you. Arigatou gozaimasu.
0:45:42 > 0:45:44And what better way to show our gratitude
0:45:44 > 0:45:47than to cook lunch for Mr T?
0:45:47 > 0:45:50Let me introduce to you...
0:45:50 > 0:45:52This isn't just like beef.
0:45:52 > 0:45:55This is Mr Takami's finest beef
0:45:55 > 0:45:57and within that there is some jeopardy and worry,
0:45:57 > 0:46:01- because Mr Takami is going to taste what we do to his beef.- Yes.
0:46:01 > 0:46:06We're making sukiyaki, a Japanese stew made from thin strips of beef
0:46:06 > 0:46:07with vegetables.
0:46:07 > 0:46:09- Mate, are you ready?- I'm ready.
0:46:09 > 0:46:13- Remember the first cut is the deepest.- You're not wrong, so...
0:46:14 > 0:46:17- Happy?- Oh, is it a nice slicer?
0:46:17 > 0:46:21Mr T's come for a butchers, Kingy. No pressure!
0:46:21 > 0:46:24What a lovely job, Kingy. Fine as a fine thing.
0:46:24 > 0:46:29The meat is the star of this dish. Whatever else goes in is up to you.
0:46:29 > 0:46:34Do you know what, it's a bit like a Japanese fridge clear-out.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37You can put all manner of bits and pieces on it.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40We've got mushrooms, celery, Chinese leaves, spring onions
0:46:40 > 0:46:42and some bamboo shoots.
0:46:43 > 0:46:46You can get bamboo shoots in tins at home
0:46:46 > 0:46:49and some supermarkets have started selling it fresh.
0:46:49 > 0:46:53And, of course, my new favourite food - tofu!
0:46:54 > 0:46:57Mr Takami's had enough already.
0:46:57 > 0:47:00- He's having a snooze.- Aye.
0:47:04 > 0:47:07I mean, it's not our scintillating conversation or what we're
0:47:07 > 0:47:10doing with his produce that's sent him over the other side.
0:47:10 > 0:47:13He gets more sense out of the cows.
0:47:13 > 0:47:17And now the moment we've been waiting for!
0:47:24 > 0:47:27Thin slices like these only need a couple of minutes on each side.
0:47:27 > 0:47:32- Oh, Kingy, that looks good. - Absolutely fantastic. Look at that.
0:47:32 > 0:47:35- Beautiful, beautiful meat. - Just sprinkle over some sugar.
0:47:35 > 0:47:39- Yes.- Little bit. Not much.- Lovely.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41This is just to help the caramelisation of the beef.
0:47:41 > 0:47:43We need to turn that over again.
0:47:43 > 0:47:45Set it aside. One.
0:47:47 > 0:47:52Nice. Look at that. The sugar's given it a nice kind of bronzey hue.
0:47:52 > 0:47:56Then add the rest of the ingredients to the same pan.
0:47:56 > 0:47:59Thing is, it's just an organised stir-fry, isn't it?
0:47:59 > 0:48:01I like that analogy, mate. I think you're dead right.
0:48:01 > 0:48:05Just turn the tofu over, get a nice colour on it.
0:48:05 > 0:48:10That tofu is going to take on all the flavours, that lovely beef
0:48:10 > 0:48:13- and also the sauce. - Oh, look at these shitake, Dave.
0:48:13 > 0:48:17- I think this is done, you know. - I think you're right.
0:48:17 > 0:48:18- Right?- Yeah.
0:48:18 > 0:48:22Spoon over a couple of ladles of the sauce which is made from dashi,
0:48:22 > 0:48:25a fish stock, and, of course, soy and mirin
0:48:25 > 0:48:28before adding the beef back to the pan.
0:48:28 > 0:48:33And that is our beef sukiyaki ready for serving.
0:48:33 > 0:48:37You could definitely try this one at home with or without wagyu.
0:48:37 > 0:48:42It's up to you! It's quick and easy to make and tastes delicious.
0:48:42 > 0:48:46But, is it good enough to satisfy Mr Takami?
0:48:46 > 0:48:48Come and taste. See what you think.
0:48:55 > 0:48:58Oishii.
0:49:00 > 0:49:01He says delicious.
0:49:01 > 0:49:03- Great.- Fantastic. Thank you, thank you.
0:49:03 > 0:49:05Saikou!
0:49:05 > 0:49:07CHEERING
0:49:11 > 0:49:14We're back in Kyoto, the tourist capital of Japan.
0:49:14 > 0:49:18Millions of people rock up here every year, mate, and no wonder.
0:49:18 > 0:49:21The city's packed with cultural delights.
0:49:21 > 0:49:25We've done the monasteries so what's next in the guide book, Kingy?
0:49:27 > 0:49:30The Man In The Moon Irish pub! They get everywhere, don't they?
0:49:30 > 0:49:32DAVE LAUGHS
0:49:32 > 0:49:35You do get the feeling in Kyoto that you could take part
0:49:35 > 0:49:41in an ancient ceremony of tea-drinking, but also, if you
0:49:41 > 0:49:46wanted to have an ultra-modern cup of coffee, that's there as well.
0:49:46 > 0:49:52- Oh, wow. It's a geisha?- Yeah.
0:49:54 > 0:49:57I'd never know how to walk in four-inch platforms though.
0:49:57 > 0:49:58No.
0:49:58 > 0:50:01Noddy Holder managed it though.
0:50:01 > 0:50:02Yeah.
0:50:02 > 0:50:06In Kyoto, fully fledged geisha are called geiko
0:50:06 > 0:50:08and trainees are called maiko.
0:50:08 > 0:50:10The city's 200 geiko
0:50:10 > 0:50:14are committed to keeping this 300-year-old tradition alive.
0:50:15 > 0:50:18I'm going to experience something truly elegant,
0:50:18 > 0:50:20historic and beautiful.
0:50:20 > 0:50:23We're going for a night out with the maiko.
0:50:23 > 0:50:27Now, these women studied the nuances of their culture,
0:50:27 > 0:50:29and the ceremonies therein,
0:50:29 > 0:50:31to make travellers like Dave and I welcome.
0:50:31 > 0:50:34The maiko will become a geiko,
0:50:34 > 0:50:37which is the geisha of Kyoto.
0:50:38 > 0:50:41Now, there's been a lot of controversy over the years
0:50:41 > 0:50:43about what exactly the role of a Geisha is,
0:50:43 > 0:50:46but today they're very much a legitimate part
0:50:46 > 0:50:48of the hospitality and tourist industry.
0:50:49 > 0:50:53- It's great.- It's elegant, simple, wonderful.
0:50:53 > 0:50:56Not many people live in traditional houses in Japan any more,
0:50:56 > 0:50:58so teahouses like this
0:50:58 > 0:51:02offer the chance to see ancient costumes and rituals in action.
0:51:03 > 0:51:05Konnichiwa.
0:51:05 > 0:51:08- SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE - Good evening.
0:51:08 > 0:51:10Thank you for coming.
0:51:10 > 0:51:12BOTH: Well, thank you for having us.
0:51:12 > 0:51:15'A geiko's job is to act as a hostess.
0:51:15 > 0:51:18'They serve food and drink, and entertain their clients
0:51:18 > 0:51:22'by performing traditional music, dances and games.'
0:51:22 > 0:51:25What I'm finding remarkable, as I'm sure Dave is,
0:51:25 > 0:51:30is that it's still living and breathing and it's still here
0:51:30 > 0:51:32and it's still part of Japanese culture.
0:51:32 > 0:51:35- Yes, as you see.- Absolutely.
0:51:35 > 0:51:38'Tomitae is one of Kyoto's 70 maiko.
0:51:38 > 0:51:41'She's chaperoned by Reiko Tomimori,
0:51:41 > 0:51:44'a geiko mother who oversees her apprenticeship.'
0:51:44 > 0:51:47Why did this lady want to be a maiko?
0:51:47 > 0:51:51TOMITAE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE
0:51:56 > 0:51:58When she was little
0:51:58 > 0:52:02she loved to wear kimono
0:52:02 > 0:52:06and also she loved traditional Japanese music.
0:52:06 > 0:52:08How long is the training?
0:52:08 > 0:52:10SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE
0:52:10 > 0:52:14- About five years before becoming a geiko.- Five years?- Wow.
0:52:14 > 0:52:18Can it be a long career, being a geiko?
0:52:18 > 0:52:21I mean, how old can you carry on working?
0:52:21 > 0:52:25SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE
0:52:25 > 0:52:27As long as she wants to.
0:52:27 > 0:52:29Only one condition -
0:52:29 > 0:52:33if she wants to get married, she has to retire.
0:52:33 > 0:52:36'It costs about £2,000 a month to train a maiko.
0:52:36 > 0:52:40'While they're apprentices, they get paid pocket money,
0:52:40 > 0:52:41'but once they've graduated,
0:52:41 > 0:52:45'being a geiko can be a very lucrative career.'
0:52:47 > 0:52:51'We're being treated to a Japanese banquet called kaiseki.
0:52:51 > 0:52:53'It has up to 16 courses
0:52:53 > 0:52:57'and dates back to the days when Kyoto was the imperial capital.
0:52:57 > 0:52:59'This meal is more than just food -
0:52:59 > 0:53:02'the geiko turn the whole experience into theatre.'
0:53:04 > 0:53:08- I've never felt so pampered in my life.- It's marvellous, isn't it?
0:53:08 > 0:53:11THEY SPEAK IN JAPANESE
0:53:16 > 0:53:19- That is good sake.- Oh, I see, so...
0:53:19 > 0:53:21Every time you drink it,
0:53:21 > 0:53:23very kindly the ladies fill it up.
0:53:23 > 0:53:27So if we... Could we put that down here now and then start to eat?
0:53:27 > 0:53:30Yes, please! I'm sorry, I should have...
0:53:30 > 0:53:33Cos I'm going to end up very cross-eyed very quickly!
0:53:33 > 0:53:37The kaiseki banquet includes raw fish or sashimi,
0:53:37 > 0:53:41pork belly, local vegetables and tempura.
0:53:41 > 0:53:43- Oh.- Mmm.
0:53:46 > 0:53:49- Oh, wow. This is lovely.- It is.
0:53:49 > 0:53:50Absolutely lovely.
0:53:51 > 0:53:57Would you ask what is her daily routine.
0:53:57 > 0:54:00SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE
0:54:04 > 0:54:07She gets up at eight o'clock in the morning
0:54:07 > 0:54:10and the first thing she does is comb her hair,
0:54:10 > 0:54:15because this hair style is with her own hair.
0:54:17 > 0:54:20So she goes to the hairdresser once a week
0:54:20 > 0:54:22so she has to maintain the style.
0:54:22 > 0:54:26For example, that the hair accessory changes every month.
0:54:26 > 0:54:30So this month the young maiko
0:54:30 > 0:54:34has to wear the weeping willow for six days.
0:54:34 > 0:54:36- Six days?!- Yes.
0:54:36 > 0:54:40'While we're eating, we're treated to a traditional fan dance.
0:54:40 > 0:54:44'The term maiko translates literally as "dance child".'
0:54:44 > 0:54:46MUSIC PLAYS
0:54:54 > 0:54:56You know, Si, what this experience is like,
0:54:56 > 0:55:00it's like a good piece of classical music, classical opera.
0:55:00 > 0:55:02It's where all the arts come together
0:55:02 > 0:55:04to be something truly fantastic.
0:55:04 > 0:55:07You know, there's the food, the music,
0:55:07 > 0:55:09the theatre, the spectacle.
0:55:09 > 0:55:12- Yeah.- All done with quite a lot of gravitas.
0:55:12 > 0:55:16It's just lovely, cos it's a layered art form, isn't it?
0:55:16 > 0:55:20- Yes.- That's what we're in receipt of, and that's a remarkable thing.
0:55:24 > 0:55:28THEY SING 'And when we've finished, we play parlour games,
0:55:28 > 0:55:31'which might look innocent but have a hidden agenda -
0:55:31 > 0:55:33'involving yet more sake!'
0:55:33 > 0:55:36SHE SINGS
0:55:36 > 0:55:38Ah!
0:55:39 > 0:55:42- You have to drink.- Oh.
0:55:42 > 0:55:43I lost.
0:55:43 > 0:55:45This is so much better than darts.
0:55:49 > 0:55:51SHE SPEAKS IN JAPANESE
0:55:53 > 0:55:58She said you are very strong, handsome and very cool.
0:55:58 > 0:56:01- That's very nice, yes.- Never mind, never mind, you'll be all right.
0:56:01 > 0:56:03That might be gilding the lily a bit.
0:56:03 > 0:56:07'Next up is a medieval fan-throwing game called tosenkyo.
0:56:07 > 0:56:09'As far as I can make out,
0:56:09 > 0:56:12'it's like Pass The Pigs - but with fans.'
0:56:12 > 0:56:16- Is this a drinking game as well? - Is it a drinking game?
0:56:16 > 0:56:17This is not a drinking game.
0:56:17 > 0:56:20You go first.
0:56:22 > 0:56:24Oh, that's loads.
0:56:28 > 0:56:30THEY LAUGH
0:56:31 > 0:56:34Ooh! See, see!
0:56:35 > 0:56:37Ah, leave us hanging.
0:56:37 > 0:56:39Keep me dignity, Dave. This is not football.
0:56:39 > 0:56:42Can I ask you, Tomitae,
0:56:42 > 0:56:46what's your favourite rock'n'roll band?
0:56:46 > 0:56:49SHE TRANSLATES
0:56:49 > 0:56:51What's your favourite pop music?
0:56:51 > 0:56:53- Lady Gaga.- Lady Gaga.
0:56:55 > 0:56:57- Lady Gaga?- Lady Gaga!
0:56:57 > 0:56:59Do you like the Scorpions? SIMON SIGHS
0:56:59 > 0:57:01No, they're big in Japan.
0:57:01 > 0:57:03Yeah, yeah, yeah, only in your head!
0:57:11 > 0:57:12What do we do now?
0:57:12 > 0:57:15- I tell you what I'd like you to do now.- What?
0:57:15 > 0:57:19Can you get us out of this position? I tell you what, it's murdered me.
0:57:19 > 0:57:23Would you mind? I'm a bit stuck.
0:57:23 > 0:57:25'This road trip through Japan
0:57:25 > 0:57:28'has exceeded all our expectations.'
0:57:28 > 0:57:30We've waited 20 years to come to Japan.
0:57:30 > 0:57:32It's blown me mind, dude.
0:57:32 > 0:57:34It's absolutely blown me mind,
0:57:34 > 0:57:35it's been everything and more
0:57:35 > 0:57:39that I could ever have dreamt of and ever wished for. What about you?
0:57:39 > 0:57:41I thought that I knew about Japanese food,
0:57:41 > 0:57:43I've learnt a lot off the internet,
0:57:43 > 0:57:46through going to restaurants, eating loads of takeaways.
0:57:46 > 0:57:48But it's not the case.
0:57:48 > 0:57:51- The Japanese food I've found here is very different.- Yes, it is.
0:57:51 > 0:57:53It's a lot purer, it's a lot more gentle,
0:57:53 > 0:57:55and it's a lot more sophisticated,
0:57:55 > 0:57:57and I think at home we've got a lot more to learn.
0:57:57 > 0:58:01For me, as a cook, it's just blown the bloomin' doors off!
0:58:01 > 0:58:04Oh, it's blown my mind, dude. Absolutely amazing.
0:58:04 > 0:58:07Amazing cultural experience and great food.
0:58:07 > 0:58:09A little cultural good-night sake?
0:58:09 > 0:58:13- I think so, should we? - Yes!- Let's go.
0:58:13 > 0:58:14'Next time, we're in Korea
0:58:14 > 0:58:16'for Asian fried chicken...'
0:58:16 > 0:58:20It can't be unhealthy. Anything that good can't be bad for you.
0:58:20 > 0:58:22'..some popular culture...'
0:58:22 > 0:58:24# Gangnam style! #
0:58:24 > 0:58:27'..and a glimpse into the future!'
0:58:28 > 0:58:29- ROBOT:- I will chop it.
0:58:31 > 0:58:33Just put the knife down. There's no need to be violent.