Suffolk

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05We're the Hairy Bikers, on the road for regional recipes to rev up appetites.

0:00:05 > 0:00:11We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

0:00:24 > 0:00:28We're here to define the true taste of Suffolk.

0:00:32 > 0:00:35Suffolk is a really rural county.

0:00:35 > 0:00:41- Look at this, there are thousands of little rinky, dinky villages. - You're not wrong, it is rural.

0:00:41 > 0:00:46Even the county town of Ipswich, their football team, is called the Tractor Boys.

0:00:46 > 0:00:51I don't know too much about Suffolk, it's like England's forgotten county.

0:00:51 > 0:00:54- I know about the pork, Suffolk hams and sausages, fabulous. - Where there's hams,

0:00:54 > 0:00:58there's pigs, and where there's pigs there's apples. Ying and Yang, dude.

0:00:58 > 0:01:03Foods go together like that, don't they? I'm freezing, this bus is never going to come.

0:01:03 > 0:01:05Come on, on your bike.

0:01:11 > 0:01:13On our quest to define the real flavours of Suffolk,

0:01:13 > 0:01:17we cook up a dish that shows off the best of the county's larder.

0:01:17 > 0:01:21We sample flour ground at a water mill with a 1,000-year history.

0:01:21 > 0:01:24Our wheat goes up and the flour comes down.

0:01:24 > 0:01:28We ferret about in the hedgerows in search of wild rabbit.

0:01:28 > 0:01:31Representing Suffolk in the cook-off is Chris Lee.

0:01:31 > 0:01:35Will we be able to beat him, using the county's finest ingredients?

0:01:40 > 0:01:44Here we are, Bury St Edmunds, beautiful town in the county of Suffolk.

0:01:44 > 0:01:47We've got to get to the root of Suffolk food.

0:01:47 > 0:01:52Let's see what the people think about the county larder, the palate, the taste.

0:01:52 > 0:01:54He's always the voice of reason.

0:01:56 > 0:01:58What is the iconic food of Suffolk?

0:01:58 > 0:02:01Pork, we're in pig country.

0:02:01 > 0:02:03Pork of course, it's got to be.

0:02:03 > 0:02:08I've got a huge joint tonight and my best mate is a butcher, so I'm laughing.

0:02:08 > 0:02:12- I imagine pork and apples. - It is pork all time. - It comes up again, pork and apple.

0:02:12 > 0:02:15- Just cider. - Cider and a bit of belly pork.

0:02:15 > 0:02:20And there is a lovely shop down there. They'll sort you out in there.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23This looks great, they've been here since 1860.

0:02:23 > 0:02:25It's quality this, isn't it?

0:02:25 > 0:02:29- Morning, gentlemen. - There's a fella with a frying pan.

0:02:29 > 0:02:31Pleased to see you. Look at this!

0:02:31 > 0:02:33It's a St Edmunds Bury purse.

0:02:33 > 0:02:36What is a St Edmunds Bury purse?

0:02:36 > 0:02:40It's some English beef that's been hung for three or four weeks.

0:02:40 > 0:02:44Absolutely lean, make a pocket of wholegrain mustard

0:02:44 > 0:02:47and ale cheese and then we shut the purse and then we cook it.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50Do you want a job! You're good, you, aren't you?

0:02:50 > 0:02:54- So it's from the hind quarter, this bit of meat?- Absolutely.

0:02:56 > 0:02:58It's absolutely got to be perfection.

0:02:58 > 0:03:01- Try that.- It's beautiful.

0:03:01 > 0:03:05And with that is a sloe wine because the berries here are full of them.

0:03:05 > 0:03:08- Thanks very much, good health. - It's the only way to live.

0:03:08 > 0:03:10The smallest pub in Britain.

0:03:10 > 0:03:11ALL TALK AT ONCE

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- What's the beer like, boys?- Good, you'd better have one and find out.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21It's Greene King down here, isn't it?

0:03:21 > 0:03:25Good Suffolk beer, brewed in Bury St Edmunds.

0:03:25 > 0:03:27- Cheers, guys.- This is the IPA.

0:03:28 > 0:03:35- Very good.- The IPA for lunch time, the Abbot for in front of the fire.

0:03:35 > 0:03:37Tell us about traditional Suffolk food.

0:03:37 > 0:03:39A bit of game pie maybe, pheasant.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42A bit of pigeon and rabbit if you can get it.

0:03:42 > 0:03:47- What are the traditional dishes? - Organic pork.- Pigs, yes.

0:03:47 > 0:03:51- Pork it is, it's got to be, hasn't it?- Yes, and you like cooking it don't you?- We do.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54- We like eating it more.- That shows!

0:03:56 > 0:04:0120% of the UK's outdoor-reared pork comes from Suffolk,

0:04:01 > 0:04:03so that's definitely what we have to cook.

0:04:08 > 0:04:12But we don't want any old Suffolk pork, we want the best

0:04:12 > 0:04:16and that means visiting Blythburgh Free Range and Jimmy Butler,

0:04:16 > 0:04:19who has been voted Pig Farmer of the Year.

0:04:19 > 0:04:20Plenty of space here.

0:04:20 > 0:04:24It's wonderful, the amount of space they got is fantastic.

0:04:24 > 0:04:26- They have an acre to run in. - How many pigs do you have?

0:04:26 > 0:04:30About 18,000, between 18,000 and 20,000 most of the time.

0:04:32 > 0:04:34I thought pigs were lazy creatures that lay around.

0:04:34 > 0:04:37- No, no.- They're like racehorses! - Oh yeah.

0:04:37 > 0:04:42They'll play, they will muck about, they are like children in the playground, they just enjoy life.

0:04:42 > 0:04:44Go on.

0:04:47 > 0:04:52- Not a bad life being a free-range pig is it?- These aren't a rare breed pig, but they are unique?

0:04:52 > 0:04:57They are unique, yes. They are what we designed for ourselves, they are a cross-bred.

0:04:57 > 0:04:59What was wrong with the pig as it was?

0:04:59 > 0:05:02Couldn't get enough back fat on it and length to it,

0:05:02 > 0:05:05so we had to create the pig that could grow a little bit slower

0:05:05 > 0:05:09but still create the flavour we manage to get into them by doing them free range.

0:05:09 > 0:05:12Right, I think that one's ready for the slaughter, don't you?

0:05:12 > 0:05:14Balding, scalding and turn it into burgers.

0:05:14 > 0:05:18You can fall out with folk really quickly, you know.

0:05:18 > 0:05:20I think Pauline has got some food ready for us.

0:05:20 > 0:05:24- Lovely.- I thought that would appeal. - You're not wrong.

0:05:24 > 0:05:28Let me introduce you to Pauline, my wife. She's been cooking all night.

0:05:28 > 0:05:30Oh yes!

0:05:30 > 0:05:34- Look at the crackling on that! - I bet you hear that a lot, Pauline, don't you?- Yes.

0:05:34 > 0:05:35What's your secret for cracking?

0:05:35 > 0:05:39Dry it off, rub salt and olive oil into the crackling.

0:05:39 > 0:05:42Most important of all, heat the oven hot

0:05:42 > 0:05:46for half an hour and turn it down and I cooked it for six hours.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50- I think it's time we took the top off.- We couldn't possibly.

0:05:50 > 0:05:52This is one of the great pleasures of life.

0:05:54 > 0:05:56And that's Dave being polite.

0:05:59 > 0:06:02This is the shoulder which is very economical to buy.

0:06:02 > 0:06:06The meat almost goes like a confit. It's just so rich.

0:06:06 > 0:06:08You can cut it out with a spoon.

0:06:08 > 0:06:13Absolutely. You can see she's a good cook, I'm now twice the man she married.

0:06:13 > 0:06:17You wait until I get mine, you know?

0:06:17 > 0:06:20Would you like some apple sauce? It's homemade. Bon appetit.

0:06:22 > 0:06:27That's so full of flavour, Jimmy, it tastes so piggy!

0:06:27 > 0:06:30Normal pigs are about 18 or 19 weeks when they are killed.

0:06:30 > 0:06:33But these are about 24 to 26 weeks and because of that,

0:06:33 > 0:06:37they've had the time to develop flavour into themselves and that's what you're eating.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40You're eating pork your grandparents used to eat

0:06:40 > 0:06:44that sadly we've lost and the modern-day farming doesn't have nowadays.

0:06:44 > 0:06:48- We can't come to Suffolk and not cook pork.- It would be criminal, mate.

0:06:48 > 0:06:49It would be, wouldn't it?

0:07:00 > 0:07:06It's time to get cooking this delicious Suffolk pork, and there couldn't be a place more inspiring

0:07:06 > 0:07:09than the Maltings at Snape on the banks of the River Ore.

0:07:09 > 0:07:15There's a concert hall here that was founded by Benjamin Britten and Sir Peter Pears.

0:07:15 > 0:07:22We're cooking up Suffolk Pork in a mushroom, cider and cream sauce with caramelised toffee apples.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25- CHEERING - Now look at this, this is a chop.

0:07:25 > 0:07:30And that's a free-range pork chop from the Blythburgh Farm.

0:07:30 > 0:07:36What were going to do is cook them in cider with mushrooms, shallots, cream, a bit of mustard.

0:07:36 > 0:07:42Everything from Suffolk. It's a really good kind of dish to have with mashed potatoes and carrots.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45This is extra-virgin rapeseed oil, it's produced in Suffolk

0:07:45 > 0:07:49and you can use it instead of olive oil and as its local, we are at it.

0:07:49 > 0:07:52And as there's a few here, we'll do three pans full.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55What I've done is season that on the griddle pan that's really hot.

0:07:55 > 0:07:57Stand that up there until I find the tongs.

0:07:57 > 0:08:01The idea is, you get a nice bit of crackling.

0:08:01 > 0:08:07- I need three onions. - Miles, come here, hold that, will you? Good lad.

0:08:07 > 0:08:09I don't want this too hot.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12- We don't.- What we're going to do is do that with all the pork chops,

0:08:12 > 0:08:17rub some of that lovely salt into the fat and stand them up together in a little line.

0:08:17 > 0:08:19Just like a band of soldiers.

0:08:19 > 0:08:22At this point, with the onions, don't want them caramelised,

0:08:22 > 0:08:24because we've got caramelised apples,

0:08:24 > 0:08:27so the pork and cider is like a white stew.

0:08:27 > 0:08:31One of the elemental sounds of life that, an onion sizzling.

0:08:31 > 0:08:35You can be quite rustic with the onions. That's well charred.

0:08:35 > 0:08:37Cajun, Cajun.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39- Burn it and call it Cajun.- Exactly.

0:08:39 > 0:08:40Yes!

0:08:43 > 0:08:45You looked a bit kind of wrong.

0:08:45 > 0:08:51To this, I have some fine Suffolk bacon, mix that up like that.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54Handful in there, doo-doos in there.

0:08:54 > 0:08:56Sweat those down

0:08:56 > 0:09:01and I will chop the mushrooms now. I must say, Mr King, those chops are great.

0:09:01 > 0:09:03Now, to the pan add some mushrooms.

0:09:03 > 0:09:06Not fancy mushrooms, just mushrooms from the mushroom farm.

0:09:06 > 0:09:12Now these are shallots, they've been blanched for about five minutes because I want the onions whole.

0:09:12 > 0:09:16Look at that, all those lovely juices out of the pork chop will slightly caramelise.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20So in each pan, a little bit of thyme...

0:09:21 > 0:09:25..some parsley and a bay leaf.

0:09:25 > 0:09:27Two, three.

0:09:27 > 0:09:31Keep that stirring. Imagine all those flavours just mixing in perfect harmony.

0:09:31 > 0:09:33Next step, cider.

0:09:33 > 0:09:38Aspinalls dry, premier cru from your lovely county.

0:09:38 > 0:09:41Put half a bottle in each, bring that to the boil.

0:09:41 > 0:09:46One for me, and one for the pan. That'll do.

0:09:46 > 0:09:48Bring it to the boil.

0:09:52 > 0:09:54- That will be hot that.- Yes!

0:09:56 > 0:10:00Now, we need to put four chops into each pan.

0:10:00 > 0:10:03- I think we should go for three and have two on the side.- All right.

0:10:03 > 0:10:09Yes, all of those juices in there, waste not want not.

0:10:09 > 0:10:11- Pick your nose and eat it. - LAUGHTER

0:10:11 > 0:10:16It's time to get on with the toffee apples.

0:10:16 > 0:10:21These aren't any apples, these are Suffolk Cox's apples.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24Ow!

0:10:24 > 0:10:26- That will be hot. - No, I got the sharp end.

0:10:26 > 0:10:28Peel, cored and quartered.

0:10:28 > 0:10:33What we're going to do to make the toffee apples, this muscovado sugar goes into this bowl.

0:10:35 > 0:10:38- First lot. Kingy?- What, mate?

0:10:38 > 0:10:44- Do you think it's a good idea to turn the chops, put the top ones on the bottom?- Stir it, look.

0:10:46 > 0:10:54What happens is, there is a leach of citric acid that have been coated with the muscovado sugar.

0:10:54 > 0:11:01Here's another one. What I'm going to do is put the chops into the oven and then the finish off the sauce.

0:11:01 > 0:11:04If you have noticed, we've reduced the heat on the griddle pan

0:11:04 > 0:11:07because we want the apples to soften and caramelise.

0:11:07 > 0:11:13- Who's going to wash up those griddle pans?- We will leave them to soak in the river for a bit.

0:11:13 > 0:11:19The chops have been simmering in the cider, the shallots, the onions, bacon.

0:11:19 > 0:11:23We take those out and put them in the oven for a bit.

0:11:27 > 0:11:30Right, the sauce.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33I think we can put everything back in one pan now, do you?

0:11:34 > 0:11:37Now, all that is starting to caramelise nicely.

0:11:37 > 0:11:43They will need another 10 minutes before they are sticky and cooked.

0:11:43 > 0:11:45To the pan, add some cream.

0:11:46 > 0:11:50LAUGHTER

0:11:50 > 0:11:52It said on the recipe.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55And reduce.

0:11:56 > 0:12:03And to that, some good, Suffolk mustard, wholegrain would be better because it's got texture.

0:12:03 > 0:12:06Two of those. It is a mustard cream sauce.

0:12:06 > 0:12:10I have just had this pan on here so I get the temperature up.

0:12:10 > 0:12:11It's a good bubble,

0:12:11 > 0:12:15I will let it reduce because the sauce could be runny.

0:12:15 > 0:12:18All the shallots are still in a oner. Nice herbs, nice mushrooms.

0:12:18 > 0:12:20I think we're about there.

0:12:20 > 0:12:23The sauce is reduced, it's thick and tasty.

0:12:23 > 0:12:25Pork chops are ready, stood by, standing.

0:12:25 > 0:12:30- The toffee apples are sticky and kind of cooked.- We're ready.

0:12:30 > 0:12:32It's like Desperate Dan's breakfast.

0:12:33 > 0:12:36- That one's nice.- Yes. - That's a comedy chop.

0:12:36 > 0:12:39That is a comedy chop.

0:12:39 > 0:12:42Scatter those in a cascade off the chops.

0:12:42 > 0:12:46Couple of those lovely shallots, now poached down in the cream.

0:12:46 > 0:12:48It's kind of a dish from heaven.

0:12:48 > 0:12:51You're going to love it.

0:12:53 > 0:12:56- That's it, that's it. - Oh, look at that!

0:12:56 > 0:13:00Some parsley sprinkles, not too much. A little bit of mash.

0:13:02 > 0:13:03Some carrots.

0:13:03 > 0:13:09There we have it, here is our taste of Suffolk. APPLAUSE

0:13:12 > 0:13:18Suffolk Pork is so easy to prepare and smells fantastic, but what will such a big hungry crowd make of it?

0:13:18 > 0:13:19There you are, my darling.

0:13:19 > 0:13:23There are a lot of mouths to feed here! Let's get their verdict.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26- What do you reckon? - Superb, absolutely beautiful.

0:13:26 > 0:13:32- I've done mine with a tomato base before, but I'm converted to cream, it's good.- Go on son!

0:13:32 > 0:13:33Size of that, the poor lad will choke!

0:13:33 > 0:13:35Now tell us what it's like.

0:13:35 > 0:13:38The seed mustard was the right way to go.

0:13:38 > 0:13:43- Lovely!- What do you reckon? - Very good.

0:13:43 > 0:13:46I think you like it, so, young lady, what do you reckon?

0:13:46 > 0:13:48Worth waiting for.

0:13:48 > 0:13:51CHEERING It's all been eaten, yeah.

0:13:51 > 0:13:56- A nice, local roll. - So, thumbs up from Suffolk?- Yes!

0:13:56 > 0:14:00That went down a storm, thankfully we had enough to go round!

0:14:00 > 0:14:03The people of Suffolk were definitely satisfied customers.

0:14:03 > 0:14:06Next, an even bigger challenge is around the corner.

0:14:06 > 0:14:11As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

0:14:11 > 0:14:15using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

0:14:15 > 0:14:21It will be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Suffolk.

0:14:21 > 0:14:24Our opponent today is...

0:14:24 > 0:14:27Chris Lee, head chef of The Bildeston Crown.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29One of the Good Food Guide's Young Chefs of the Year.

0:14:29 > 0:14:34He loves to showcase local fare and his menu reflects his commitment to Suffolk produce.

0:14:34 > 0:14:39What we believe in is flavour. Yes, there is the odd foam, the odd jelly,

0:14:39 > 0:14:44but it's there to complement the food. The food that we do at The Crown is very relaxed.

0:14:44 > 0:14:48A glass of wine in front of the fireplace, some chips and bearnaise,

0:14:48 > 0:14:50a 32oz rib of beef, Suffolk cattle, fantastic.

0:14:50 > 0:14:54Who would want anything else? The local produce is amazing.

0:14:54 > 0:14:58You don't need to go out of Suffolk for produce, you go to the farmers' markets,

0:14:58 > 0:15:03the people that do the produce. They care about it. People are proud to show it off in Suffolk.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06Tenderness and flavour is definitely what the local produce is about.

0:15:06 > 0:15:11Everybody on their menu can say it's local this, local that. But you need to shout about it.

0:15:11 > 0:15:16Do it cos you care about it. Get your guys involved in the kitchen, that's what cooking's about.

0:15:16 > 0:15:20The awards over the last few years have been fantastic. I was lucky last year in the Good Food Guide

0:15:20 > 0:15:23to get Up and Coming Chef of Great Britain.

0:15:23 > 0:15:25Obviously I'll now have to work for Chef of the Year.

0:15:25 > 0:15:31To take on the Bikers, my taste of Suffolk is roasted mallard with gizzard and heart stew.

0:15:38 > 0:15:43- So, Chris...- Yes?- ..In the battle for the Plate of Suffolk, what are you going to do for us?

0:15:43 > 0:15:47Right, we've got a lovely mallard from a farm just two minutes up the road.

0:15:47 > 0:15:51- Does all the game for us at the hotel.- Well, that's local!

0:15:51 > 0:15:56- Everything we are going to do, the potatoes, kale, squash, all local. - Headline that dish!

0:15:56 > 0:16:01Everything. We're doing roasted mallard with slow-roasted gizzards and heart stew.

0:16:01 > 0:16:04Chris, I know you prepare lots of this dish in advance.

0:16:04 > 0:16:06Could you show us which bits of duck you're using?

0:16:06 > 0:16:11Yes. We just nip the skin, just bring it all the way down, keep the skin on the bird.

0:16:11 > 0:16:14That's a lovely colour, Chris. How long would that be hung?

0:16:14 > 0:16:16For a couple of days, you don't need more.

0:16:16 > 0:16:20So we've got the two legs which we're going to really cook slowly in some duck fat.

0:16:20 > 0:16:24We've got the thigh which we'll braise and then mix together with a bit of a mousse

0:16:24 > 0:16:28and we're going to make a little golf ball, so all the flavour.

0:16:28 > 0:16:33The dish is about everything on the duck. OK, taking the breast off, nice and gently.

0:16:33 > 0:16:35So we've got one lovely breast.

0:16:35 > 0:16:41The carcass gets roasted really slowly, we're going to make a duck stock, cooked for about 10 hours.

0:16:41 > 0:16:43- 10 hours?!- Yeah.- Have you got a room.- Ready for this?

0:16:43 > 0:16:48One will be for the sauce, the other part, we'll do a clear consomme to go with the dish as well.

0:16:48 > 0:16:49Nice. Fantastic.

0:16:49 > 0:16:52So just trimming up these, and again, take the fillets off.

0:16:52 > 0:16:55The fillets get used for clarification of the consomme.

0:16:55 > 0:16:58So again, everything gets used. So a little bit of salt.

0:16:58 > 0:17:01We don't use pepper, it doesn't bring out anything.

0:17:01 > 0:17:04- Good quality salt, obviously? - Maldon sea salt, just down the road.

0:17:04 > 0:17:08Very good. OK, the pan has obviously been on for a while.

0:17:08 > 0:17:11We're going to roast these off, melt down some of the fat.

0:17:11 > 0:17:14You cook it first on that side to leach out the fat?

0:17:14 > 0:17:18Yes, turn it over. Same colour again, but everything goes in the pan.

0:17:18 > 0:17:19Just leave those ticking over.

0:17:19 > 0:17:23So what we're going to do, go through the bone there, just nice and slowly.

0:17:23 > 0:17:27We'll roast it really slowly, because it can be quite tough meat.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30This, we're going to slow braise.

0:17:32 > 0:17:33I'll just pop these in the oven.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35I'll put them in for three minutes, nice and pink.

0:17:35 > 0:17:37Then I'll just leave them to rest.

0:17:37 > 0:17:42The potatoes, known as dauphinoise, I just like to call them a garlic cream potato.

0:17:42 > 0:17:45We've infused some garlic with rosemary and thyme,

0:17:45 > 0:17:48cream, milk, brought it up to boil with a little bit of nutmeg.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51So they go in and we just colour them off a little bit.

0:17:51 > 0:17:52In the fat from the duck!

0:17:52 > 0:17:56We cook them really, really slowly the day before on about 150 for an hour,

0:17:56 > 0:17:59take the foil off, get a bit of colour on them and then press them.

0:17:59 > 0:18:00That's how you get your layers.

0:18:00 > 0:18:04- Then they go in the fridge. - Fabulous.- Just tick it over.

0:18:04 > 0:18:07- Look at that lovely glaze comes on to it!- Nice and slowly.

0:18:07 > 0:18:11Okay, so we'll check the duck, and then the duck out the oven...

0:18:13 > 0:18:15Okay, so still a little bit pink.

0:18:15 > 0:18:20Remember they're going to be rested for a couple of minutes. We'll just leave them to rest.

0:18:20 > 0:18:23And then, another little thing, the juices, why waste it? Get it on.

0:18:23 > 0:18:27- Yeah!- Nice and gently, cos obviously they're are now getting to the soft stage.

0:18:27 > 0:18:29Seriously, it's a beautiful thing.

0:18:29 > 0:18:31It's a work of art!

0:18:31 > 0:18:33OK, so we have the hearts and the gizzards.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36- They're big hearts, aren't they? - Yes, big birds.

0:18:36 > 0:18:38All we need to do is nip off the top,

0:18:38 > 0:18:42have a little look inside to make sure they're all nice and clean.

0:18:42 > 0:18:44Again, into the quarters like that.

0:18:44 > 0:18:47Now, you nip that top off because you don't use that?

0:18:47 > 0:18:49Yeah, it's got tubes and things like that.

0:18:49 > 0:18:54And the gizzards. We're just going to take off any white like that.

0:18:54 > 0:18:59Again, the gizzards take a very long time to cook really, really slow.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01- They're very rich, aren't they? - They are.

0:19:01 > 0:19:04- A gizzard is a second stomach that breaks up food.- That's what it is.

0:19:04 > 0:19:08They get salted for two hours with some rosemary, thyme and bay leaf and a little bit of garlic.

0:19:08 > 0:19:11Then wash the salt off and they go into a little duck fat which just

0:19:11 > 0:19:15sits there, and we tick them over. That will take about eight hours.

0:19:15 > 0:19:18I'll just clear my board, cos that's me down for my raw meat.

0:19:18 > 0:19:20And these are the cuts of duck you prepared earlier?

0:19:20 > 0:19:25This is the leg. Again, it has been really slowly cooked in duck fat.

0:19:25 > 0:19:27We've then just left it to cool a bit and trimmed,

0:19:27 > 0:19:31- just made it very chef-y, which I'm going to pan fry. - Crispy duck.- Can't beat it.

0:19:31 > 0:19:36Then here, this is the gizzard which has been confited really slowly in the fat.

0:19:36 > 0:19:41It's got the mousse around it, it's been set, then what we're going to do is just pan-fry.

0:19:41 > 0:19:44Keep the cling film on to keep the shape.

0:19:44 > 0:19:48- What's in the mousse, Chris? - The mousse is just all the scraps from the duck.

0:19:48 > 0:19:50- All the little bits?- Everything. - What's the herb?

0:19:50 > 0:19:54The herb is parsley. So it's like a duck terrine, which we're just going to warm up.

0:19:54 > 0:19:58These are obviously the thigh, which has been cooked really slowly, flank down,

0:19:58 > 0:20:02rolled into nice little pieces and then paned into bread crumbs.

0:20:02 > 0:20:06- I'm just starting to think we needed to come two days earlier. - I know! I know!

0:20:06 > 0:20:10We've got to do it from scratch! We're on a hiding to nowt.

0:20:10 > 0:20:12We've got a drumstick, duck balls and a sausage!

0:20:12 > 0:20:14OK, all into the pan.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17- You're still keeping the cling film on?- Keep the cling film on, yeah.

0:20:17 > 0:20:23- Will that work?.- Yeah, yeah. It doesn't burn. It just sits there. It's a chef-y thing.- Ooooh!

0:20:23 > 0:20:29We'll just put these to the frier, literally two minutes before we start plating the dish.

0:20:29 > 0:20:33Nice and crispy, crispy balls. So I'll just pop those in the oven.

0:20:33 > 0:20:35I can't get over the whole cling film thing, dude!

0:20:35 > 0:20:40OK, let's do the vegetables. Very simple, we're going to do a squash, fantastic time of year for it.

0:20:40 > 0:20:45- What we do for the puree, we peel it, into small chunks, place into a bag...- Sous-vide!

0:20:45 > 0:20:47Yeah, basically sous-vide cooking.

0:20:47 > 0:20:49Nice and spongy, nice and soft.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52It's got a knob of butter in there and some seasoning.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54And this literally goes into the blender.

0:20:54 > 0:20:59Everything's in there, nothing's been wasted, nothing's been lost.

0:20:59 > 0:21:02If you find it's not coming together - a touch of warm milk. Keep it warm.

0:21:02 > 0:21:05If you put cold milk in, it'll start having that grainy feel to it.

0:21:05 > 0:21:08Going back to the heart stew, we've prepped the hearts,

0:21:08 > 0:21:11we've marinaded them in red wine and thyme overnight.

0:21:11 > 0:21:15- Taken the liquor off them in the morning. A bit of flour on them. - What are the crispy bits?

0:21:15 > 0:21:18Some diced carrots and diced celeriac and some diced shallots.

0:21:18 > 0:21:21A touch of port and that really gets the taste buds going.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23So that goes on the stove and then the consomme.

0:21:23 > 0:21:25A fantastic part of the dish.

0:21:25 > 0:21:29- And now the kale.- Kale's great.- It's been blanched in boiling water,

0:21:29 > 0:21:32then all we do is pan fry it in a little bit of butter, bit of salt,

0:21:32 > 0:21:35touch of pepper - cos that's where the pepper comes in - and that's it.

0:21:35 > 0:21:39- We have the puree here, fantastic consistency.- That's silky.

0:21:39 > 0:21:41All we're going to do is, in case there's any lumps...

0:21:41 > 0:21:44- You'd still pass that through a sieve?- Yes, a little sieve,

0:21:44 > 0:21:47cos we're only doing a couple of portions.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49OK, so we'll put all our sauces on.

0:21:49 > 0:21:52Pan for the kale. This is obviously where it all comes together.

0:21:52 > 0:21:55- Knob of butter into the pan. - SIZZLING

0:21:55 > 0:21:57You want it that brown, like a beurre noisette,

0:21:57 > 0:22:00cos again, it's more flavour than just a normal bit of butter.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03OK, plenty of butter, in goes the kale.

0:22:03 > 0:22:04You're flashing that

0:22:04 > 0:22:09- with no heat other than what's been retained in the pan, yeah?- That's it.

0:22:09 > 0:22:11It's kept going, and that's it. Fantastic.

0:22:11 > 0:22:15Onto there. All I'm going to do now, start plating up...

0:22:15 > 0:22:18We'll just squeeze these out, cos you don't want the juices on.

0:22:21 > 0:22:24Just take the cutter off, on goes the kale...

0:22:24 > 0:22:28Make sure there's no cling film on it, cos it doesn't go down very well!

0:22:28 > 0:22:31So the puree...

0:22:31 > 0:22:34- Just trim it off. For the chefs. - Oh, really?- Nice and rested.

0:22:37 > 0:22:40- Ah, smart, man! - OK, so the heart stew...

0:22:40 > 0:22:42just into the pot.

0:22:42 > 0:22:45The duck stock, it's been reduced down.

0:22:45 > 0:22:49On with the consomme. Into the pan.

0:22:50 > 0:22:54We've got some clementines, cooked down in their own juices. A touch of orange.

0:22:54 > 0:22:56Blitz them up with stock syrup and then put into here.

0:22:56 > 0:22:58It's called an espuma.

0:22:58 > 0:23:00What... That is fantastic.

0:23:00 > 0:23:04- Finish off with a parsley...- Wow.

0:23:04 > 0:23:08What's lovely is, if you're presented with that on the table, it's an adventure of food.

0:23:08 > 0:23:11But one food - duck. How wonderful's that?

0:23:11 > 0:23:14So we have roasted breast of mallard, slow roasted leg,

0:23:14 > 0:23:19finished off with a heart stew, the consomme and the clementine foam.

0:23:19 > 0:23:21I've got to have a taste of this.

0:23:23 > 0:23:27Oh, wowser! It's a duck a l'orange in a glass! The duck hearts...

0:23:27 > 0:23:29You know what's nice? The texture.

0:23:29 > 0:23:33- That's so rich.- I think we might be in trouble here. - I think we're knackered.

0:23:33 > 0:23:34I'm really looking forward to this.

0:23:34 > 0:23:39- The garlic in the potatoes is so rich.- The gizzard sausage and mousse.

0:23:39 > 0:23:42- Take that with the kale..- Oh, wow!

0:23:42 > 0:23:43- Moist.- Moist.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45Now then, duck balls.

0:23:45 > 0:23:46Half...

0:23:49 > 0:23:52- I'd love a pile of them with a pint! - Confit.

0:23:52 > 0:23:56That's my favourite, I so love dark meat.

0:23:56 > 0:23:59It's an immaculately presented restaurant dish.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01Boy, does Chris know how to cook!

0:24:01 > 0:24:04- Oh aye!- I could be a piranha in a former life!

0:24:04 > 0:24:09But it's the locals who will decide whose dish is best in the blind tasting coming up.

0:24:09 > 0:24:12To take on Chris' duck, we need to find something packed with flavour.

0:24:12 > 0:24:16Well, look around us, this rural county must be full of game.

0:24:16 > 0:24:18Let's go wild!

0:24:25 > 0:24:27Hi, Robert.

0:24:27 > 0:24:31'We're here to meet Robert Gooch, owner of the Wild Meat Company.'

0:24:31 > 0:24:34- What's that?- That's a hare, yeah.

0:24:34 > 0:24:39- Ah!- A lot of wood pigeons behind, we're full of wild meat here.

0:24:39 > 0:24:45- It's your business, isn't it?- We're trying to create an niche where wild food will be seen as an alternative

0:24:45 > 0:24:48to organic, an alternative to free range and conventional.

0:24:48 > 0:24:51- Can you show us what you've got? - Sure, d'you want to come in?- Aye.

0:24:51 > 0:24:57We're nearly out of the game season for the birds, but we've got a few still left. Partridges.

0:24:57 > 0:24:59French red-legged partridge.

0:24:59 > 0:25:02Wood pigeon. We've had a bumper year for woodcock.

0:25:02 > 0:25:07To me this is the finest of all game birds. We've got rabbit and hare in here.

0:25:07 > 0:25:11These are the hares that you saw in the field. They're quite a lot bigger than a rabbit.

0:25:11 > 0:25:14Aye. Does the wild rabbit taste different to farmed rabbit?

0:25:14 > 0:25:18Yes, I think it's got a slightly gamey flavour, a slightly stronger flavour,

0:25:18 > 0:25:24firmer texture of meat. Rabbits are one of the most popular things at farmers' markets.

0:25:24 > 0:25:29Of all the wild food Suffolk has to offer, rabbit really takes our fancy.

0:25:29 > 0:25:32- What exactly is this, Robert? - A cold rabbit pie.

0:25:32 > 0:25:37Traditionally every Christmas morning lots of Suffolk families have cold rabbit pie.

0:25:37 > 0:25:41I have it in the summer as a cold lunch with salad.

0:25:41 > 0:25:45- It's wonderful rabbit pie, isn't it? - A great, proper Suffolk tradition.

0:25:45 > 0:25:47Lovely.

0:25:47 > 0:25:50Robert often calls upon the expertise of Johnny.

0:25:50 > 0:25:54By ferreting for rabbits, he's also helping local farmers protect their crops.

0:25:54 > 0:25:58My grandfather has done it, my grandfather's grandfather.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01- It's got a long tradition in these parts.- Johnny, why are we talking so quietly?

0:26:01 > 0:26:04So that we don't make the rabbits hear us.

0:26:04 > 0:26:09This morning I set out some nets on the hedge down here over the holes.

0:26:09 > 0:26:11Being quiet is the key to this.

0:26:11 > 0:26:15This is one big warren running all the way through to the end of this thicket.

0:26:15 > 0:26:17The rabbits could come out at any place.

0:26:17 > 0:26:20It's like cowboys and indians, this, but just for rabbits.

0:26:20 > 0:26:24The girls here are all albinos because they're a lot easier to see in the hedge.

0:26:24 > 0:26:27- Lift it up, put her in, put it back. - Right-oh.

0:26:30 > 0:26:34I'll put the golden girls into the holes very quietly.

0:26:34 > 0:26:38They'll chase the rabbits out into the nets that I set.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41Stand back.

0:26:41 > 0:26:43How long do we wait?

0:26:43 > 0:26:45Until all the ferrets are out of the hole.

0:26:45 > 0:26:46They'll work the rabbits.

0:26:46 > 0:26:48SQUEAKING

0:26:56 > 0:26:58That's another one.

0:26:58 > 0:26:59There's one there!

0:27:05 > 0:27:08That worked quite well. Two rabbits.

0:27:08 > 0:27:12Can you pick the ferrets up now, guys, please.

0:27:12 > 0:27:15Johnny, did you kill these instantly?

0:27:15 > 0:27:18Yes, the first thing I do is break the neck.

0:27:18 > 0:27:20That relieves any stress upon the animal.

0:27:20 > 0:27:26- They just go quickly. Very quickly. - It's a proper, old, rural craft.

0:27:26 > 0:27:30Whilst the action was happening over there another rabbit's bolted into this net here.

0:27:30 > 0:27:35Eventually they'll just kick their way out and he's run off to feed another day.

0:27:35 > 0:27:39I really think we're getting a sense of this county's heritage.

0:27:39 > 0:27:43So, we'll use a saddle of rabbit wrapped in spinach

0:27:43 > 0:27:46and local pancetta with a duxelle of mushrooms.

0:27:46 > 0:27:50We'll complete this dish with another taste of Suffolk's history.

0:27:50 > 0:27:56Flour, an ingredient that has been milled here the same way for centuries.

0:28:02 > 0:28:03This is heaven, isn't it?

0:28:03 > 0:28:07Beautiful. It's tranquillity all around.

0:28:07 > 0:28:10That's one of the things people like when they come here.

0:28:10 > 0:28:12It's just a lovely place to be.

0:28:12 > 0:28:14David, tell us about Pakenham Mill?

0:28:14 > 0:28:18The building here behind us is about 200 years old,

0:28:18 > 0:28:23but there has been a mill on the site for nearly 1000 years.

0:28:23 > 0:28:27We have a windmill which you can see at the top of the pond and it's the only village

0:28:27 > 0:28:31in England still with a working windmill and a working watermill.

0:28:31 > 0:28:33Fabulous.

0:28:33 > 0:28:36- I bet you've got a lovely mill pond. - We have indeed.

0:28:36 > 0:28:40Its stores all the water that drives the huge 16 ft high water wheel.

0:28:40 > 0:28:42We'd love to see that. Can we have a look?

0:28:46 > 0:28:51- Wow!- That's the same wheel that has been here for more than 100 years.

0:28:51 > 0:28:56Made in Bury St Edmunds, you can see the name on it.

0:28:56 > 0:29:00You don't need a fast-flowing river to push this great wheel round.

0:29:00 > 0:29:07All you need is the water filling those buckets on the one side of the wheel and it'll turn.

0:29:07 > 0:29:11It holds about half to three-quarters of a tonne weight of water.

0:29:11 > 0:29:13That drives a heavy millstone.

0:29:16 > 0:29:18Here we are, this is where it all happens.

0:29:18 > 0:29:23Fantastic! The building comes alive. It's just amazing.

0:29:23 > 0:29:26- The whole building vibrates. - It's got a heart, hasn't it?

0:29:26 > 0:29:29Just like that, boom-boom, boom-boom, boom-boom. Lovely.

0:29:29 > 0:29:33The wheat comes down the chute, fills up the hopper

0:29:33 > 0:29:36and then you can see it's coming from the bottom of the hopper

0:29:36 > 0:29:40in a steady stream down there and into the eye of the stone.

0:29:40 > 0:29:42Eye of the stone!

0:29:42 > 0:29:50The wheat goes in there, it's ground between the two millstones and you can see there's a block sweeping

0:29:50 > 0:29:55the flour around and it goes down another chute down to the floor below

0:29:55 > 0:29:57and straight into the sacks.

0:29:57 > 0:29:59Let me introduce you to Roger.

0:29:59 > 0:30:02He's been milling here for longer than anyone can remember.

0:30:02 > 0:30:06Roger, how do you assess the quality of that?

0:30:06 > 0:30:10- You get a handful of it, squeeze it and see how it stays.- It stays.

0:30:10 > 0:30:15- It's lovely.- This is wholemeal.

0:30:15 > 0:30:17Nothing taken out.

0:30:17 > 0:30:20It doesn't get much more whole than this, does it?

0:30:20 > 0:30:24Our wheat goes up and the flour comes down.

0:30:24 > 0:30:25We don't do anything to it.

0:30:25 > 0:30:29Perfect. David, have you got an oven?

0:30:29 > 0:30:32We've got a very special oven.

0:30:32 > 0:30:35David, how long ago did you light that fire in the oven?

0:30:35 > 0:30:386 o'clock this morning.

0:30:38 > 0:30:40What a very nice man you are, sir.

0:30:40 > 0:30:43Why do I feel this'll be the best bread we've ever tasted?

0:30:43 > 0:30:46Here is the bread. Thank you.

0:30:46 > 0:30:49Two lovely loaves.

0:30:49 > 0:30:52In it goes on the peel.

0:30:52 > 0:30:55We'll bring it out in about 25 minutes' time.

0:30:55 > 0:30:56Shut the door.

0:30:56 > 0:30:59Here it is.

0:30:59 > 0:31:02Look at that. That means you've got good gluten in your flour

0:31:02 > 0:31:04because there's a nice bounce on your bread.

0:31:04 > 0:31:07- Smell the wheat. - It's like a taste of paradise.

0:31:07 > 0:31:11I'm going to have a bit, too, thank you. Just taste that.

0:31:11 > 0:31:14You don't need any butter and jam on it.

0:31:14 > 0:31:16- The flavour of that...- Good bread.

0:31:16 > 0:31:17Straight from the wheat.

0:31:17 > 0:31:19I think that's the acid test.

0:31:19 > 0:31:23It's all very nice and it's wonderful, but so is the bread.

0:31:25 > 0:31:29Right, in competition with your masterpiece we've gone traditional.

0:31:29 > 0:31:32It's a stuffed saddle of rabbit with a duxelle of mushrooms,

0:31:32 > 0:31:38served with braised red cabbage with cranberry and cheese oatcakes and some game chips.

0:31:38 > 0:31:43It'll be up to local diners to decide whose dish best represents the true flavours of Suffolk.

0:31:43 > 0:31:47Step one, cabbage takes an hour and a half.

0:31:47 > 0:31:49HE LAUGHS

0:31:49 > 0:31:52The obligatory big knob of butter.

0:31:52 > 0:31:54Savoy cabbage.

0:31:54 > 0:31:57One finely sliced red onion.

0:31:57 > 0:31:59It's not all going to fit in this pan.

0:31:59 > 0:32:04To this you grate one Bramley apple and four beetroots.

0:32:04 > 0:32:07- Ever thought about getting a bigger kitchen?- Not till today.

0:32:07 > 0:32:10- Local beetroot, these?- Yes.

0:32:10 > 0:32:14Oh! Take those stupid gloves off.

0:32:14 > 0:32:15Now we grate the beetroot.

0:32:15 > 0:32:21This is raw beetroot. 3 tablespoons of local red wine vinegar.

0:32:21 > 0:32:27Two, three. And also three tablespoons of not local muscovado sugar.

0:32:30 > 0:32:33Why do I always get...?

0:32:33 > 0:32:35Mr Smiley!

0:32:38 > 0:32:40- Give us a look at that. - I'll never get that off.

0:32:40 > 0:32:43That's about three.

0:32:43 > 0:32:44Give it a quick mix up.

0:32:44 > 0:32:46It looks like an alarming amount.

0:32:46 > 0:32:48This will drop. The cinnamon stick goes on to there.

0:32:48 > 0:32:54Stick that on a fire for an hour and a half and hey presto, job done.

0:32:56 > 0:32:57Clean me head up, I feel stupid.

0:32:59 > 0:33:02- Lovely, that. - There we are, three rabbits.

0:33:02 > 0:33:09It's funny with rabbits, the hind quarters, the haunch, it cooks differently to the saddle.

0:33:09 > 0:33:12- Yes.- Can be a tough brute, but we use both in this, to waste nowt.

0:33:12 > 0:33:15First off, you take that off there.

0:33:15 > 0:33:17- And these are local?- Yes, absolutely.

0:33:17 > 0:33:21We went out ferreting. These aren't the ones that we caught,

0:33:21 > 0:33:24because the ones that we caught were hung for a couple of days.

0:33:24 > 0:33:27Look at this, this is how easy that loin comes off.

0:33:27 > 0:33:30I'm not cutting it, I'm just pulling it off.

0:33:30 > 0:33:32How lovely is that?

0:33:32 > 0:33:33Take a pan...

0:33:34 > 0:33:36..some olive oil.

0:33:36 > 0:33:39First of all we want to brown that in some olive oil.

0:33:39 > 0:33:42Give that a bit of colour.

0:33:42 > 0:33:46It's not generally available in supermarkets. Ask your butcher to get you a rabbit.

0:33:46 > 0:33:49And a rabbit costs about £3 each.

0:33:51 > 0:33:55The rabbit's taken some colour, so into that pan I'm going to add

0:33:55 > 0:33:59the vegetables, a shallot, a carrot and a couple of sticks of celery.

0:33:59 > 0:34:02- He says that.- Very well.

0:34:02 > 0:34:04Just toss that until you're happy.

0:34:04 > 0:34:08To this about 250 mls of good chicken stock,

0:34:08 > 0:34:12250 millilitres of white wine

0:34:12 > 0:34:15and a couple of bay leaves.

0:34:15 > 0:34:20Just bring that to the boil and let that simmer until the rabbit's tender.

0:34:21 > 0:34:25That's what's getting stuffed. One part of the stuffing is simmering

0:34:25 > 0:34:29and the other part of the stuffing is a duxelle of mushrooms.

0:34:29 > 0:34:31- Butter.- Thank you, sir.

0:34:31 > 0:34:34First step, soften the shallots.

0:34:34 > 0:34:36About three shallots.

0:34:36 > 0:34:40Just chop these roughly because they are going to go in a blender

0:34:40 > 0:34:44but we have to wait for those to go translucent before we put these in.

0:34:44 > 0:34:46I think we're all right, mate.

0:34:46 > 0:34:48The mushrooms go in there.

0:34:48 > 0:34:53Cover those up and just cook them slowly for about five minutes with a lid on.

0:34:53 > 0:34:55Meanwhile the haunches of rabbit

0:34:55 > 0:34:58will take a couple of hours to simmer down.

0:34:58 > 0:35:03So after two hours, that rabbit'll look like that.

0:35:03 > 0:35:05I just need to pick the meat off that now

0:35:05 > 0:35:08and that will go in as part of the component parts of the stuffing.

0:35:08 > 0:35:12It's falling off the bones. Warm it up, just to get that more liquid

0:35:12 > 0:35:16and then we can strain that and that will be the basis of the gravy.

0:35:16 > 0:35:20These are porcini mushrooms. They've been soaking about 20 minutes.

0:35:20 > 0:35:23We'll need some of this juice to put into the duxelle.

0:35:23 > 0:35:26I'm going to take some of these big bones out and then sieve

0:35:26 > 0:35:29this through, reduce it and that's going to be our gravy.

0:35:29 > 0:35:31Look at that, it's got a lovely glaze on it.

0:35:31 > 0:35:36Now, everybody, that's the reduced stock to jelly and in the kitchen

0:35:36 > 0:35:37- like this it's gold, isn't it? - It is.

0:35:37 > 0:35:43Roasted beef bones in a big stockpot simmered for 12 hours and then just the bones taken out and reduced.

0:35:43 > 0:35:48I'm just going to put a nice spoonful of that into the juices that have come from the rabbit.

0:35:48 > 0:35:52All you need to do is warm that through, put some butter in and that's your gravy.

0:35:52 > 0:35:54No thickener, nothing.

0:35:54 > 0:35:57Right, the duxelle. First some porcinis.

0:35:57 > 0:35:59I've left the juice there for you, mate.

0:35:59 > 0:36:03That's absolute concentrate liquor of mushrooms.

0:36:03 > 0:36:07I'm just going to cover the bottom of the pan with that and then just give it a stir

0:36:07 > 0:36:11and to that about one tablespoon of double cream.

0:36:11 > 0:36:16Leave the top off at this point. We want that quite dry.

0:36:16 > 0:36:19- Keep a close eye on it so you don't burn it.- For the oatcakes

0:36:19 > 0:36:22we've taken the mill flour from the thousand-year old mill.

0:36:22 > 0:36:25There's heritage in this bag. Pinhead oatmeal.

0:36:25 > 0:36:31Pakenham wholemeal flour and a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda.

0:36:31 > 0:36:34To that some salt, about half a teaspoon.

0:36:34 > 0:36:38- And the reason for the cranberries? - Cranberries and rabbit go together.

0:36:38 > 0:36:41And some grated cheese, parmesan would be good.

0:36:41 > 0:36:44This is a good Suffolk cheese, a Cheddar-like creature.

0:36:44 > 0:36:46- Beautiful.- That is good, man.

0:36:46 > 0:36:50Oatcakes need about... This could be messy!

0:36:50 > 0:36:53Two tablespoons of boiling lard.

0:36:53 > 0:36:55Get your hands in and a mix it.

0:36:55 > 0:36:58It'll be all right, it's not that hot.

0:37:00 > 0:37:01Make that into a dough.

0:37:01 > 0:37:04HE SHRIEKS

0:37:04 > 0:37:05No, I'm joking.

0:37:05 > 0:37:09With about eight tablespoons of boiling water.

0:37:09 > 0:37:12One, two, three, four.

0:37:12 > 0:37:16Stop there and give it a go. We're very nearly there. One more.

0:37:16 > 0:37:19That's about eight tablespoons.

0:37:19 > 0:37:21That's it, absolutely on the money.

0:37:21 > 0:37:24It would be nice if we could chill this for a bit.

0:37:24 > 0:37:30A baking tray, a piece of parchment and because I'm paranoid, I'm going to put a bit of oil on there.

0:37:30 > 0:37:32Take half of it,

0:37:32 > 0:37:36- I think we need about two per portion. Three?- Let's go for three.

0:37:36 > 0:37:42Cranberry and cheese oatcakes for "rabbitisation"

0:37:42 > 0:37:44across the nation. That will do.

0:37:44 > 0:37:49Put these into a preheated oven about 180 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes until they're golden.

0:37:49 > 0:37:52Next step, the stuffing.

0:37:52 > 0:37:56The mushrooms have gone in there, the rabbit's in there,

0:37:56 > 0:37:59now we have the white of an egg, parsley.

0:37:59 > 0:38:03And an egg white. Fire.

0:38:03 > 0:38:05WHIRRING

0:38:07 > 0:38:09That's how we want it.

0:38:09 > 0:38:11It's like a rough cut, kind of stuffing.

0:38:11 > 0:38:17You just need to season that now and that's the stuffing done.

0:38:17 > 0:38:19The oatcakes are done. Excellent, well done.

0:38:19 > 0:38:23- Perfect, look. Just colouring up on that side.- Lovely.

0:38:23 > 0:38:28Set those aside to cool nicely. Let's do the saddles.

0:38:28 > 0:38:32We take the pancetta and make a blanket. And repeat.

0:38:32 > 0:38:37On to this I want some baby spinach leaves.

0:38:37 > 0:38:41These wonderfully trimmed saddle of rabbit a twist of pepper.

0:38:41 > 0:38:44I know you don't like pepper, but we do.

0:38:44 > 0:38:46And a little bit of sea salt.

0:38:46 > 0:38:51What we do now is take two saddles and place one there, another there

0:38:51 > 0:38:53and take some stuffing.

0:38:53 > 0:38:58You want about the same proportions, like so.

0:38:58 > 0:39:03- Go on.- Do it quite tightly.

0:39:04 > 0:39:06That's a healthy portion for one.

0:39:06 > 0:39:12I just transfer those on to a lightly oiled roasting dish.

0:39:12 > 0:39:16Do it so that it's the bacon seam side down.

0:39:16 > 0:39:19Let's put those into a preheated oven, about 185 degrees,

0:39:19 > 0:39:23I reckon for only about 10 minutes until they start to go golden.

0:39:23 > 0:39:27The oatcakes are done, the rabbit's in the oven, all we need now is the game chips.

0:39:27 > 0:39:30Cut that like that to get a nice straight end.

0:39:30 > 0:39:32You put that like that.

0:39:32 > 0:39:34The first one is sacrificial.

0:39:34 > 0:39:41You see the grooves there, you turn it round and do it like that and out pops a holey crisp.

0:39:41 > 0:39:46These are called game chips and we're going to have a stack of these on either side of the rabbit.

0:39:48 > 0:39:51That's it. They're brilliant.

0:39:51 > 0:39:54- I don't think I can handle your deep-fat frier.- I'm on it.

0:39:54 > 0:39:56Just keep moving them around.

0:39:56 > 0:40:00That cabbage is just a lovely, sticky mass now.

0:40:02 > 0:40:05- Game chips.- Posh crisps, those.

0:40:05 > 0:40:09Let them rest, put some of that juice into there.

0:40:09 > 0:40:12I never waste nowt. Good lad.

0:40:12 > 0:40:16I think we might have done a few too many portions.

0:40:18 > 0:40:21Your living room used to be this colour.

0:40:21 > 0:40:26- It did, yes.- That's what you want, deconstructed rabbit.

0:40:28 > 0:40:29That's juicy, mate.

0:40:29 > 0:40:32- What do you think?- That's it.

0:40:36 > 0:40:40- Way away from the game chips. - Mr Myers, headline that.

0:40:40 > 0:40:43Stuffed saddle of rabbit with a duxelle of mushrooms served

0:40:43 > 0:40:50with braised red cabbage, beetroot, baking apples, with cranberry and cheese oatcakes and some game chips.

0:40:50 > 0:40:52He's not wrong.

0:40:57 > 0:41:02The cabbage is lovely. The rabbit's lovely and moist. The jus is amazing.

0:41:02 > 0:41:05it's got all the flavours and everything in there.

0:41:05 > 0:41:07The game chips are cut perfectly.

0:41:07 > 0:41:12- It really is a lovely dish. For me, personally, just too much veg to go with the rabbit.- OK.

0:41:12 > 0:41:15Little bit concerned now. If the TV doesn't work out, come here.

0:41:15 > 0:41:17- Can I have a job? - I'll take you up on that.

0:41:17 > 0:41:22Thanks, Chris, great offer, but first we've got to see if our dish is good enough to beat you.

0:41:22 > 0:41:28The diners here will taste both dishes, but without any idea of who cooked which.

0:41:28 > 0:41:34- First up is Chris's duck platter with heart stew.- I've not come across the heart stew before.

0:41:34 > 0:41:36That was fantastic.

0:41:36 > 0:41:40Restaurants tend to use the best bits and discard the others which have been cooked properly

0:41:40 > 0:41:43as they are today. And much more delicious.

0:41:43 > 0:41:47It's nice to see how out of one animal you can get such different textures and flavours.

0:41:47 > 0:41:51The consomme, I didn't like it at all. It was like drinking liquid fat.

0:41:51 > 0:41:52The consomme I actually enjoyed.

0:41:52 > 0:41:54I loved the bitterness of the Orange.

0:41:54 > 0:41:56I had to share it with three other people.

0:41:56 > 0:41:58Can I have some more, please?

0:41:58 > 0:42:03They loved it, now it's down to our pancetta-wrapped saddle of rabbit

0:42:03 > 0:42:07with a duxelle of mushrooms and Suffolk oatcakes.

0:42:07 > 0:42:10It looked good on the plate, there was enough volume there this time,

0:42:10 > 0:42:15so it looked like a proper meal and I thought the flavour of the rabbit was very subtle, but very good.

0:42:15 > 0:42:18It was quite bland, so it needed that pancetta to go with it.

0:42:18 > 0:42:23- The oatcakes were like eating cardboard, really.- The red cabbage overpowered the dish.

0:42:23 > 0:42:27It probably would have been very nice but with a smaller quantity.

0:42:27 > 0:42:30Probably too much going on and it took away from the rabbit itself.

0:42:30 > 0:42:34- Hello. - APPLAUSE

0:42:34 > 0:42:39Firstly, ladies and gentlemen, thank you for having us in your wonderful county.

0:42:39 > 0:42:42We've met somebody who we hope will be a good friend for a long time.

0:42:42 > 0:42:45- He's a good man. Great in the kitchen.- Aye.

0:42:45 > 0:42:50So, could we have a show of hands for the duck?

0:42:52 > 0:42:55That's eight for the duck.

0:42:55 > 0:42:58And for the rabbit?

0:42:58 > 0:43:01OK, the duck was Chris's.

0:43:05 > 0:43:08You can come with us and get drunk, the rest of you have just blown it!

0:43:11 > 0:43:13Well done and we're not speaking to you.

0:43:15 > 0:43:18I'm not surprised. Fantastic, a fabulous dish

0:43:18 > 0:43:20and very, very well done.

0:43:21 > 0:43:23It's fair to say the best man won.

0:43:23 > 0:43:24Chris's dish was incredible.

0:43:24 > 0:43:26He really is a deserving winner.

0:43:26 > 0:43:28After all, he's young Chef of the Year.

0:43:28 > 0:43:30We've certainly learnt a lot in Suffolk.

0:43:30 > 0:43:34This really is a county still rich in food traditions.

0:43:34 > 0:43:38Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:38 > 0:43:40E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk