Gloucestershire

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05- We're the Hairy Bikers.- On the road to find regional recipes!

0:00:05 > 0:00:11We're riding county to county to discover, cook and enjoy the best of British.

0:00:25 > 0:00:29Today, we're in search of the real taste of Gloucestershire.

0:00:41 > 0:00:44Dude, I thought we were going to Gloucestershire.

0:00:44 > 0:00:47We've driven into a chocolate box!

0:00:47 > 0:00:51- I know. It's an absolute rural idyll.- It's like Middle Earth!

0:00:51 > 0:00:56You're going along and you see Upper Slaughter, Lower Slaughter, Moreton in Marsh.

0:00:56 > 0:01:00- I'm looking for hairy feet and big holes.- Dude, that's us.

0:01:00 > 0:01:04- Gloucestershire's a big county. - Oh, it's massive, isn't it?

0:01:04 > 0:01:09And the Cotswolds is England's biggest area of outstanding natural beauty -

0:01:09 > 0:01:13the River Severn in the south, the Forest of Dean...

0:01:13 > 0:01:17- It's an ancient landscape so there must be plenty of nosh.- Has to be.

0:01:17 > 0:01:19Right, investigations.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29On our quest to define the true flavours of Gloucestershire,

0:01:29 > 0:01:34we find a traditional county recipe to serve up on Gloucester Docks.

0:01:34 > 0:01:39We discover some of the best free range poultry we've ever tasted.

0:01:39 > 0:01:44A visit to a Cotswold farm reveals a great alternative to olive oil.

0:01:44 > 0:01:48And representing Gloucestershire in the cook-off is James Graham.

0:01:48 > 0:01:52Will we be able to beat him in a blind tasting judged by local diners?

0:01:55 > 0:02:00Stroud. It's very bohemian, isn't it?

0:02:00 > 0:02:06- And an absolutely bonzer farmer's market. Look at that asparagus. - Look at that rhubarb.

0:02:06 > 0:02:11This is one of the busiest and best markets we've ever come across.

0:02:11 > 0:02:14It's a great place to discover the real tastes of Gloucestershire.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17It's a goat's cheese cheesecake.

0:02:19 > 0:02:21Oh, that's lovely.

0:02:21 > 0:02:25What's great to eat in Gloucestershire?

0:02:25 > 0:02:28There's wonderful cheeses. Wonderful bacon. Beef.

0:02:28 > 0:02:34- And vegetables. Just wonderful.- So, it's a very fertile larder? - It is, it is.

0:02:34 > 0:02:39- Oh, they look good. You've got good pork here.- Can I nick that?

0:02:39 > 0:02:43- Yeah, nick that.- Is it Old Spot? - Gloucester Old Spot.

0:02:43 > 0:02:47We want people to realise there's meat in there.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49What do you eat here?

0:02:49 > 0:02:54- Apples. There's really good apple juice.- Cider?- Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:02:58 > 0:03:03Last week, I bought a bag of spuds which came from all of four miles away.

0:03:03 > 0:03:07- Yeah, like that. Brilliant.- Yeah. - That is brilliant.

0:03:07 > 0:03:12- Oh, look. Organic milk.- This is our special breakfast milk. It's all the cream left in it.

0:03:12 > 0:03:17It's all from our own cows and we bottle it all on site at the farm.

0:03:17 > 0:03:20- I'm Jess.- You're Jess and it's Jess's Milk?

0:03:20 > 0:03:22- Oh, that's really good milk.- We take it for granted,

0:03:22 > 0:03:29- but when you get something that's just that bit better, you realise what you've been missing.- Aye.

0:03:32 > 0:03:34- Fancy a tipple? - Oh, I love giggling juice.

0:03:34 > 0:03:39That's finest Gloucestershire perry. We've got 16 acres of orchard,

0:03:39 > 0:03:43some of them planted by my partner's great aunt in 1912.

0:03:43 > 0:03:47- Crikey!- But the perries go back 250 years on the farm.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49And what varieties do you grow?

0:03:49 > 0:03:51Over 200 varieties of apple.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54Of those, 100 of them are Gloucestershire varieties.

0:03:54 > 0:03:56Proper indigenous ones.

0:03:56 > 0:04:02- Oh, that's dry!- It is indeed. With food, if you imagine something...

0:04:02 > 0:04:05- Fatty.- Belly pork.- That would be brilliant with it.

0:04:05 > 0:04:10The single variety apple juices are really catching on. Good cloudy apple juice.

0:04:10 > 0:04:15You say cloudy but we've got one variety here, an old Gloucestershire apple called Taynton Codlin,

0:04:15 > 0:04:19and it produces a really clear juice.

0:04:19 > 0:04:22- Oh, I like that.- Oh, it's wonderful, isn't it?- That is wonderful.

0:04:22 > 0:04:26There's a great perfume to it at the end on your palate.

0:04:26 > 0:04:30You're a steward of the ancient apple orchard, aren't you, really?

0:04:30 > 0:04:32Oh, that's lovely.

0:04:32 > 0:04:33That's absolutely lovely.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36What to you is Gloucestershire on a plate?

0:04:36 > 0:04:39- Gloucester Old Spot pork.- Yeah. Brilliant.

0:04:39 > 0:04:44Everything. Cheeses, meats, vegetables. Anything you want.

0:04:44 > 0:04:51- Some counties, where they've got really good products, it is difficult to pin down a specific dish.- Yeah.

0:04:51 > 0:04:54But I bet if we delve deep, we'll find one.

0:04:54 > 0:04:59- Look at those, aren't they gorgeous? - A nice layer of fat and a lovely eye of meat.

0:04:59 > 0:05:06- Just looks good.- Modern housewives do not understand that meat has got be mature. They buy on colour.

0:05:06 > 0:05:08If it's bright red, they think it's good. It's bloody rubbish.

0:05:08 > 0:05:11"Butter in the cow yesterday."

0:05:11 > 0:05:12Thank you very much.

0:05:12 > 0:05:15- I think we'll have one. - That'll make great pastry.

0:05:15 > 0:05:17- Are there any dishes...- Any traditional dishes?

0:05:17 > 0:05:20Well, there's squab pie in Gloucestershire.

0:05:20 > 0:05:22People love pies here, don't they?

0:05:22 > 0:05:24I mean, it's a good pie tradition.

0:05:24 > 0:05:29- What's Gloucestershire produce on a plate for you?- Cheese.- Well, you would say that!

0:05:29 > 0:05:33Our Single Gloucester. You've got to live in Gloucestershire and own Gloucester cows.

0:05:33 > 0:05:37There's only four of us who make it. The Double Gloucester was the posh cheese.

0:05:37 > 0:05:42The cream that you left from the Single Gloucester would go in the Double.

0:05:42 > 0:05:47And so they could tell them apart, they put the orange colouring in it.

0:05:47 > 0:05:50And the posher you were, the deeper the colour.

0:05:50 > 0:05:54But we're still in search of a classic Gloucestershire dish.

0:05:54 > 0:06:00- So, any traditional recipes that you know of?- Squab pie.- Really?- Yeah.

0:06:00 > 0:06:06- Right.- It used to be pigeon. But now they've made it with lamb and spices.

0:06:06 > 0:06:10- I'm quite intrigued by this squabble pie thing.- Squab, man.- Squabble.

0:06:10 > 0:06:17- Squab? Absolutely.- Yeah.- I suppose it's one of the older recipes that maybe country people might make.

0:06:26 > 0:06:30We need to revive the traditional Gloucestershire squab pie.

0:06:30 > 0:06:33And we're heading to Gloucester to convince the locals.

0:06:33 > 0:06:38Elsewhere in the country, squab pie is made from young pigeons.

0:06:38 > 0:06:43But in these parts, it traditionally uses superb local lamb and apples.

0:06:43 > 0:06:48We're cooking at the city's historic docks - a working port for over 2,000 years.

0:06:49 > 0:06:54Morning, campers, and welcome to Gloucester Docks. It's brilliant.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56It's got water and everything.

0:06:56 > 0:07:03This was the major meeting place of the sea and the canal system, that once made Britain mighty.

0:07:03 > 0:07:09It's hard to find a traditional recipe. So we've delved into the past.

0:07:09 > 0:07:14And these ancient recipes shouldn't be allowed to die out.

0:07:14 > 0:07:18- COOKWARE CHIMES - I couldn't agree more, camper.

0:07:18 > 0:07:21- So, we've got one. - Go on.- It's a squab pie.

0:07:21 > 0:07:23We found this recipe that's done with lamb,

0:07:23 > 0:07:27all en-coffined in this wonderful Gloucestershire crust,

0:07:27 > 0:07:30made with handmade Gloucestershire butter.

0:07:33 > 0:07:38It starts off with the fillet of neck of lamb, or best end of neck.

0:07:38 > 0:07:40Which my colleague here is trimming into cubes.

0:07:40 > 0:07:43- Would you like some seasoned flour? - I would.

0:07:43 > 0:07:47Neck fillet's one of those cheaper cuts which we keep banging on about.

0:07:47 > 0:07:49It's a great flavour, isn't it?

0:07:49 > 0:07:55One of my dreams is to have a barge like that. A narrow boat. I love them.

0:07:55 > 0:08:01- The seasoned flour goes into a big bowl.- They've got a great tradition in Gloucester about lamb.

0:08:01 > 0:08:08Because of the limestone, you can grow all that verbiage and legumeage that the sheep love.

0:08:08 > 0:08:13We're going to brown the meat off because it looks slightly more attractive when you eat it.

0:08:13 > 0:08:18- Also, it seals the flavours in.- I'm doing it in batches because we want the lamb to fry.

0:08:18 > 0:08:22Oh, it's lovely, isn't it? Summer's here.

0:08:22 > 0:08:27People are out brewing tea on their barges. Swinging swing bridges.

0:08:27 > 0:08:31- Who's got a barge, here?- Yeah, me. - Oh, look at you all.

0:08:31 > 0:08:35- The big one over there with the umbrella on.- Oooh!

0:08:35 > 0:08:39It's the big one with the umbrella.

0:08:39 > 0:08:40Is yours the blue one?

0:08:40 > 0:08:44Right. So, the meat's browned off. I've chopped an onion.

0:08:44 > 0:08:47We don't waste any flavours

0:08:47 > 0:08:51so all the meet juices are going to go now into the fried onions.

0:08:51 > 0:08:56This is the pie filling. You can cook this from raw in the pastry. But...

0:08:56 > 0:09:00when we make pies from raw, it always ends up that the crust is burnt

0:09:00 > 0:09:05and the insides are half raw. So, if you cook the filling first - guaranteed super juicy.

0:09:05 > 0:09:10- Now, we want these onions brown. - Think burger van.

0:09:10 > 0:09:15So, we put the meat into the pan with all those lovely meat juices.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18And then we put the onions, which have been browned,

0:09:18 > 0:09:22With all those lovely onion juices and, oh, look at that, man.

0:09:22 > 0:09:28And we've got some chicken stock, some water. Because there's going to be a lot flavour comes out the meat.

0:09:28 > 0:09:31Just cut some rosemary up. Pop that in.

0:09:31 > 0:09:36And a pinch of all spice. And some nutmeg. Always use fresh nutmeg.

0:09:39 > 0:09:42Some salt. And you do the pepper.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46That needs to simmer now for about 40 minutes to an hour. Or you can leave it longer if you fancy.

0:09:46 > 0:09:54- It'll just keep on getting richer and richer. So long as you don't let it boil dry and burn your pan.- Exactly.

0:09:54 > 0:09:56Meanwhile, we'll make the pastry.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59The flour goes into the processor.

0:09:59 > 0:10:02And we're using two fats for this.

0:10:02 > 0:10:05We're using lard and some of this wonderful butter.

0:10:05 > 0:10:08Which was made yesterday, we're assured.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12That was in the cow yesterday, that. Now, what we do is we blitz it...

0:10:12 > 0:10:15It's that easy! LAUGHTER

0:10:15 > 0:10:18Nearly there.

0:10:18 > 0:10:20Poetry in a crust.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24Next, we add an egg.

0:10:24 > 0:10:29Now, as you can see, it just needs a little bit more liquid.

0:10:29 > 0:10:33Dribble it in, about a tablespoon....

0:10:33 > 0:10:36Come on, baby, form! Whoa!

0:10:36 > 0:10:40Look at that! It's going round like somebody on a waltzer!

0:10:40 > 0:10:45And there you have a ball of pastry. So, I just flour my board.

0:10:47 > 0:10:51Don't want to handle it much.

0:10:53 > 0:10:55And we need some strips.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57We make like a really thick edge on the pie.

0:10:57 > 0:11:01So, if you double the crust up on there it's just yummy.

0:11:01 > 0:11:05- < ENGINE RUMBLES - Excuse me!

0:11:05 > 0:11:11Right, pastry's made. So, for this pie, we're using half Bramleys

0:11:11 > 0:11:15and half a good old fashioned English Gloucestershire apple.

0:11:15 > 0:11:19And we're going to put some sage in there. So, chop some sage leaves.

0:11:19 > 0:11:21And loads of black pepper.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24So, pepper, apples and sage.

0:11:24 > 0:11:26Now it's time to build the pie.

0:11:26 > 0:11:32So, actually this still needs another kind of 20 minutes, then it needs to cool down. So, we do have one...

0:11:32 > 0:11:34We made earlier!

0:11:34 > 0:11:39- You want half the meat in the bottom, like so.- Oh, lovely.

0:11:39 > 0:11:43And half the apples. If we use eating apples, it's going to be too sweet.

0:11:43 > 0:11:50- If you use Bramleys, it's going to be too sour. So, this way...- We get the best of both worlds.- And it works.

0:11:50 > 0:11:54The rest of the meat. This way, we different flavours.

0:11:54 > 0:12:00Now, the crustacean. So, we need to do a layer of eggy wash on the bowl.

0:12:01 > 0:12:08- See these excess strips that I cut earlier, this is where they come in. - Now, look at this.

0:12:08 > 0:12:12So, we just stick them on the edge of the bowl, like so.

0:12:12 > 0:12:15It's two layers because the lid's going to go on top.

0:12:15 > 0:12:19You get a nice puff pastry lightness to it.

0:12:19 > 0:12:21Now, a nice eggy wash on that.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25- The lid with the perfectly made pastry. Look at that.- Look at that!

0:12:25 > 0:12:30- Lush.- Just run your fingers round there, like so.

0:12:30 > 0:12:34- Your mam used to do it with her teeth, didn't she?- Yeah, she did.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37Nobody ever went round to Dave's house for tea.

0:12:37 > 0:12:40Don't you disrespect my mother.

0:12:42 > 0:12:43I haven't said owt!

0:12:43 > 0:12:45So, cut off the excess.

0:12:47 > 0:12:52And then finger and thumb, pinch press, pinch press.

0:12:52 > 0:12:58Which is better than using your mam's false teeth. Look at that.

0:12:58 > 0:13:00Now two breathing holes.

0:13:01 > 0:13:06One and two. Eggy wash.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09All we've got to do now is put that in a preheated oven,

0:13:09 > 0:13:13about 170, 180 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes until the top's golden brown

0:13:13 > 0:13:17and we will have a Gloucestershire squab pie.

0:13:17 > 0:13:19Brought back to the place it belongs.

0:13:19 > 0:13:21- Yes.- Squab-shire.

0:13:27 > 0:13:32- Go on, then, go on. Oh, look at that.- That's a pie, isn't it?

0:13:34 > 0:13:36There we have it, ladies and gentlemen -

0:13:36 > 0:13:41the original, the ancient, the positively prehistoric Gloucestershire squab pie,

0:13:41 > 0:13:44brought back to Gloucestershire by a couple of Northerners.

0:13:49 > 0:13:51Now it's the moment of truth.

0:13:51 > 0:13:55What will the locals make of our Gloucestershire squab pie?

0:14:00 > 0:14:04It's lovely. I'd never put apples and lamb together normally.

0:14:04 > 0:14:07- What do you think?- Fantastic. The lamb's really succulent.

0:14:07 > 0:14:12- You've captured Gloucester.- Oh!- Oh, thank you.- The lamb and the apples, it's wonderful.

0:14:12 > 0:14:16The pastry's real nice. It's crunchy but it's soft at the same time.

0:14:16 > 0:14:17That's the lard that gives you the crunch.

0:14:17 > 0:14:25- I think it's absolutely delicious. I don't usually eat pie.- What?! - But you've converted me.- Thank you.

0:14:25 > 0:14:28- Ship's cat's not too keen, is it? - No.- Oh, it's delicious.

0:14:28 > 0:14:32- This is lovely. - I love nutmeg with apple.

0:14:32 > 0:14:35- The lamb is really tasty.- Best pie I've had in years.

0:14:35 > 0:14:40- Is it?- How old are you?- 11.- That's a great compliment. Thank you.

0:14:40 > 0:14:44Our bid to revive the traditional squab pie was a great success.

0:14:44 > 0:14:47Next, an even bigger challenge is around the corner.

0:14:50 > 0:14:53As always, we're taking on one of the county's top chefs in their restaurant,

0:14:53 > 0:14:57using local ingredients to see who can best define the taste of the region.

0:14:57 > 0:15:01It will be up to local diners in a blind tasting to decide whose dish

0:15:01 > 0:15:05best represents the true flavours of Gloucestershire.

0:15:05 > 0:15:07Our opponent today is...

0:15:07 > 0:15:10James Graham. Head chef and owner of Allium

0:15:10 > 0:15:12in the Cotswold town of Fairford.

0:15:12 > 0:15:19Allium has received numerous awards, including the title of South West Restaurant Of The Year.

0:15:19 > 0:15:23Some of our best producers are right on our doorstep.

0:15:23 > 0:15:26I can actually see the animals we'll be using in the fields.

0:15:26 > 0:15:31I can talk to the farmer and say, these are the animals I want.

0:15:31 > 0:15:37I know that an animal going off to the slaughter is going to be absolutely at its best.

0:15:37 > 0:15:42I will only buy whole carcasses. If all you do is buy prime cuts,

0:15:42 > 0:15:45the producers end up with stuff that they can't sell so easily.

0:15:45 > 0:15:48So, we take the lot and we use the lot.

0:15:48 > 0:15:52The dialogue between our producers and us is what generates the menu.

0:15:52 > 0:15:58So our asparagus producer has literally only just started harvesting.

0:15:58 > 0:16:01But he might say, I'm sorry, James, it's not quite ready.

0:16:01 > 0:16:04So, we wait another week until it is at its best.

0:16:04 > 0:16:06Every single thing is made in house.

0:16:06 > 0:16:12Nothing bought in. Whether you start with the bread, or finish with an ice cream or have cheese biscuits,

0:16:12 > 0:16:15nothing comes through the door that we haven't made.

0:16:15 > 0:16:19We've set out to use local produce. Our clientele like the fact that

0:16:19 > 0:16:22there's a connection between the land and what we're giving them.

0:16:22 > 0:16:24They do understand food here.

0:16:24 > 0:16:27I've never sold as much offal in a restaurant anywhere.

0:16:27 > 0:16:31I can sell stuff here that I wouldn't even dream of selling in London.

0:16:31 > 0:16:35My taste of Gloucestershire is roasted local zander

0:16:35 > 0:16:38with crayfish, asparagus and a 60 degree duck egg.

0:16:46 > 0:16:49- Hi, guys, how you doing?- Hi, how are you?- Brought the weather with you.

0:16:49 > 0:16:54- Hello, James.- How you doing? - Smashing.- Welcome to Fairford.- Thank you very much!

0:16:54 > 0:16:58Can you headline the dish for us as it would appear on your menu?

0:16:58 > 0:17:05Roasted zander with local crayfish, white sprouting broccoli, asparagus and 60 degree duck egg yolk.

0:17:05 > 0:17:08That sounds good!

0:17:08 > 0:17:13- So, what's the texture of this fish, then?- It's very similar to sea bass.

0:17:13 > 0:17:16This was illegally introduced into Britain a few years ago.

0:17:16 > 0:17:21We get ours from the Gloucester canal. They have to be killed if you catch them.

0:17:21 > 0:17:25If I saw that in a fishmonger's, I'd swear blind that it was a sea fish.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28Unlike most fresh water fish, it doesn't taste muddy.

0:17:28 > 0:17:32- Sometimes it's known as a vampire fish, is that right?- Yeah.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34Look at the chompers on that.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37Fabulous. So, what first, James?

0:17:37 > 0:17:41Before we do that, I'm going to make a crayfish jelly.

0:17:41 > 0:17:47- These live crayfish. I've taken some of these and we've put them in the freezer to humanely kill them.- Yes.

0:17:47 > 0:17:51And I'm just going to pop the crayfish into the ice cube tray.

0:17:51 > 0:17:55And then we've made a stock which we've added some agar agar to -

0:17:55 > 0:17:59a seaweed derived gelling agent, which is also heat resistant.

0:17:59 > 0:18:02We'll serve the jelly slightly warm. It's already starting to set.

0:18:02 > 0:18:05We'll pop these in the fridge.

0:18:05 > 0:18:08I thought we'd fillet the fish now.

0:18:08 > 0:18:12- Hey!- I'm going to need one fillet from this.

0:18:12 > 0:18:14Ha! I think that'll do.

0:18:14 > 0:18:18So, I just take it through behind the pectoral fin.

0:18:18 > 0:18:24So, I'm going to put the knife nice and tightly down the spine here and then just work the meat off it.

0:18:24 > 0:18:26- Zander fingers.- OK.

0:18:26 > 0:18:29Blooming heck! That's nuts.

0:18:29 > 0:18:33And we'll take off the cheeks.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36They're like a cod's cheek, but bigger.

0:18:36 > 0:18:40- Yeah, they're huge.- Oh, wow!

0:18:40 > 0:18:43Obviously, all of that's still useable.

0:18:43 > 0:18:48There are loads and loads of people in Gloucestershire who are passionate about food.

0:18:48 > 0:18:53They quite often produce more then they can use

0:18:53 > 0:18:58so they'll turn up at the back door. and say, "I've got tayberries,"

0:18:58 > 0:19:01or, "I've got medlars." We made medlar jelly.

0:19:01 > 0:19:07I'll very quickly score the flesh on these, to help them stop curling up.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10Next, I'm going to get the 60 degree duck egg yolk on.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14We've got 7 duck egg yolks in here, OK?

0:19:14 > 0:19:18- They're huge aren't they, though?- And they're such a bright yellow.

0:19:18 > 0:19:22I've also got a little bit of buttermilk, which lightens it up

0:19:22 > 0:19:26and adds a little bit of acidity to it.

0:19:26 > 0:19:29Couple of pinches of salt and a little bit of ground white pepper.

0:19:29 > 0:19:33So that will now go on at 60 degrees with it constantly turning.

0:19:33 > 0:19:35And then it'll be cooked through.

0:19:35 > 0:19:40So, asparagus - I've peeled some of it as you can see.

0:19:40 > 0:19:44Why do you peel asparagus? I've never peeled me asparagus before.

0:19:44 > 0:19:46This outside bit can be a little bitter.

0:19:46 > 0:19:49You can get rid of that and just leave the real sweetness.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52And then just nick it off there which is just above the woody bit.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55So, I'm just going to drop that in there for a couple of seconds.

0:19:55 > 0:19:59I'll pick out as much broccoli as I think we need.

0:19:59 > 0:20:01That's been in a couple of minutes - it's nicely cooked.

0:20:01 > 0:20:05They've kept their colour nicely. Straight into cold water.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08The white sprouting broccoli exactly the same way.

0:20:08 > 0:20:10Into a pan of boiling water.

0:20:10 > 0:20:12We'll cook these leeks in a slightly different way.

0:20:12 > 0:20:16A little bit of water and we're going to put a decent knob of butter in.

0:20:16 > 0:20:19- But we're not going to serve all that.- No.- It's going to cook down.

0:20:19 > 0:20:21Little bit of salt.

0:20:21 > 0:20:25And then the leeks which we can just pop in there. And they will cook in that.

0:20:25 > 0:20:29The broccoli takes a little bit less time than the asparagus.

0:20:29 > 0:20:31- You can see it's a beautiful colour.- Fabulous.

0:20:31 > 0:20:37And that's straight into cold water. For the beurre noisette, again this is about half a pack of butter.

0:20:37 > 0:20:41The milk solids in this will start to cook. And they will gradually caramelize.

0:20:41 > 0:20:43They'll go brown and it will smell like hazelnuts.

0:20:43 > 0:20:45Which is why the French call it beurre noisette.

0:20:45 > 0:20:49We're also going to use a little bit of shellfish foam.

0:20:49 > 0:20:53- Oh, he's got a foam. - He's got a foam and a jelly.- He'll have one of those foamer things.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55I'm getting the gig of this restaurant now, dude.

0:20:55 > 0:20:58So, what we've got is a little bit of,

0:20:58 > 0:21:03of the crayfish stock here, OK? And I'm going to add

0:21:03 > 0:21:08- an emulsifier which helps this hold its foam.- So, it's like arrowroot in a souffle, you know?

0:21:08 > 0:21:11- Keeps it up there.- Yeah. Will, will maintain its structure.

0:21:11 > 0:21:15The only other thing we're going to add to it, OK, is knob of butter and a splash of milk.

0:21:15 > 0:21:17And a little bit of seasoning.

0:21:17 > 0:21:19So, the beurre noisette is now coming on.

0:21:19 > 0:21:23You can still hear it though. One of the things they always say about it

0:21:23 > 0:21:25is it's ready when it stops being noisy.

0:21:25 > 0:21:28- And it's just gone silent. - It has, it has.

0:21:28 > 0:21:31It's just gone silent. And the bubbles have got much, much smaller.

0:21:31 > 0:21:35And you can see in the bottom you're starting to get some caramelization.

0:21:35 > 0:21:38So, we've got half a lemon. Give it a squeeze.

0:21:38 > 0:21:44I'll add a little bit of salt. Tiny bit of black pepper.

0:21:44 > 0:21:47Give it a help to scrape the bottom off and that's our beurre noisette.

0:21:47 > 0:21:50- Oh, man!- That smells great. Yup. - We're ready to go.

0:21:50 > 0:21:55And that's the shellfish foam which is just coming together now.

0:21:55 > 0:21:57The leeks are nearly ready. Just whip these out.

0:21:57 > 0:22:01Because they'll hold now because they've got enough fat in them.

0:22:01 > 0:22:03Next thing we're going to do is breadcrumb the cheeks

0:22:03 > 0:22:05so that we can deep fry them.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08So, we're going to coat them in a little bit of flour

0:22:08 > 0:22:11which just helps protect them, OK. And then into the egg yolk.

0:22:11 > 0:22:14If you use opposite hands for the flour and the egg, you don't get all bunged up.

0:22:14 > 0:22:18- Top tip. Ah, you see the way he's doing...- That's why God give you two.

0:22:18 > 0:22:23And then we'll just give it a second coat. Just to make sure it's really well protected.

0:22:23 > 0:22:27And make sure that you don't get too much heat too quickly. You don't want the fish to overcook.

0:22:27 > 0:22:30OK, so we're pretty much ready now to put the dish together.

0:22:30 > 0:22:34We'll oil up the grill. Pop that on.

0:22:37 > 0:22:39And we'll just dot some butter around it.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41You like your butter, don't you?

0:22:41 > 0:22:45Well, I honestly think that butter's a really important thing for adding flavour.

0:22:45 > 0:22:50If I served the amount of butter that we utilise for the cooking processes,

0:22:50 > 0:22:52you'd give everyone a heart attack.

0:22:52 > 0:22:54But there is a difference between using butter and serving it.

0:22:54 > 0:22:58Next up we've got water and some butter from the leeks.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01Which will help us to reheat the vegetables that we're going to use.

0:23:03 > 0:23:08Can you see how the flesh has gone that really nice white that you get with sea bass? Now I will season it

0:23:08 > 0:23:10with a little bit of coarse sea salt

0:23:10 > 0:23:13which helps give it another texture as well.

0:23:13 > 0:23:14Tiny squeeze of lemon juice.

0:23:16 > 0:23:19Non-stick tray.

0:23:19 > 0:23:21This is a moderate oven, 180 degrees.

0:23:21 > 0:23:24Pop it in...

0:23:24 > 0:23:26and off it goes. So, I'm just going to pop these in.

0:23:26 > 0:23:28These will only take a minute or two.

0:23:28 > 0:23:34Pop those in there. Just a little bit of black pepper for the purple sprout and for the asparagus.

0:23:34 > 0:23:36And I'm going to go and pop the cheek nuggets in.

0:23:36 > 0:23:40We've got a fryer at 180 degrees. Just drop these in.

0:23:40 > 0:23:44- Hey! Cool, Graham. Zander nuggets. - OK.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48Right, so I'll get some plates and we'll start to...

0:23:48 > 0:23:50To plate up.

0:23:50 > 0:23:52First bit,

0:23:52 > 0:23:54couple of leeks with that.

0:23:56 > 0:23:57The 60-degree duck egg yolk.

0:23:57 > 0:24:00It's a proper eggy colour, isn't it?

0:24:01 > 0:24:03Zander on top. Couple of crayfish jellies.

0:24:03 > 0:24:06- Great colours on the plate. - This with the egg.

0:24:09 > 0:24:14Put a little bit of the beurre noisette over the fish.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18Tiny bit of this very heavily reduced, like, flavour here.

0:24:20 > 0:24:23There you go. Roasted zander, local white sprouting broccoli,

0:24:23 > 0:24:28asparagus, crayfish and a 60-degree duck egg yolk.

0:24:28 > 0:24:31- Fabulous.- Awesome, dude.

0:24:33 > 0:24:37This is one of the most imaginative dishes that we've been faced with.

0:24:37 > 0:24:39Look at the way that flakes.

0:24:39 > 0:24:40It does.

0:24:41 > 0:24:43Whoa, that's good fish.

0:24:43 > 0:24:47It's every bit as tasty as a really, really good sea bass.

0:24:47 > 0:24:49And the 60-degree duck egg.

0:24:49 > 0:24:54- I'm going to try it with asparagus. I'm thinking of the whole hollandaise vibe.- Yeah, good.

0:24:54 > 0:24:55- Brilliant.- Yeah, it's eggy.

0:24:55 > 0:24:57- He's a very clever man.- Yeah.

0:24:57 > 0:25:01- Crayfish jellies.- The flavours are balanced perfectly, aren't they?

0:25:01 > 0:25:04- Yeah, it's lovely. Brilliant.- Well, this is the zander cheek, isn't it?

0:25:04 > 0:25:07- Yeah. Awesome.- Oh! - He could've done a chop.

0:25:07 > 0:25:09You know, there's pork in Gloucester.

0:25:09 > 0:25:13- Exactly. But no. - Dredges the canal and gets a zander.

0:25:14 > 0:25:16Of course the real judges are the locals

0:25:16 > 0:25:20who will decide whose dish is best in a blind tasting coming up.

0:25:24 > 0:25:28James's zander is going to be a tough dish to beat.

0:25:28 > 0:25:33So we need to find the very best ingredients that Gloucestershire has to offer.

0:25:33 > 0:25:37Leonie McIntosh won Best Producer at the Cotswold Life Awards

0:25:37 > 0:25:39for her free range poultry.

0:25:39 > 0:25:43- Hi, I'm Leonie. Nice to meet you. I'm guessing you've come to look at guinea fowl.- We have.

0:25:43 > 0:25:47- We want to see your treasures. - Excellent. Well, let's go and have a look.- Fantastic.

0:25:47 > 0:25:50Leonie started rearing guinea fowl five years ago

0:25:50 > 0:25:53and found that they were ideally suited to the Cotswold landscape.

0:25:53 > 0:25:55They're free range, aren't they? Crikey!

0:25:55 > 0:25:59They always tend to drink in muddy puddles when I bring visitors.

0:25:59 > 0:26:01I suppose it's the same way that...

0:26:01 > 0:26:06- I kind of quite like drinking in a grotty pub rather than in a Formica bar.- Absolutely.

0:26:06 > 0:26:09- That is a very good analogy.- Yes. - Being free range is my excuse...

0:26:09 > 0:26:12if we come here and there's no chickens outside, they've made the choice.

0:26:12 > 0:26:16We just thought if we were chickens, how would we want to live?

0:26:16 > 0:26:20So, Leonie, I can see lots of chickens here. But guinea fowl?

0:26:20 > 0:26:24That's what you've come for. There's some in the corner over there with the chickens.

0:26:24 > 0:26:27Ah, yes. I've got them. We've got them. Yes.

0:26:27 > 0:26:31There's probably 3,000 chickens here and 300 guinea fowl. Something like that.

0:26:31 > 0:26:35But the chickens teach the guinea fowl how to behave sensibly, so...

0:26:35 > 0:26:37Are guinea fowl a bit stupid?

0:26:37 > 0:26:39I don't know if they're stupid or very clever.

0:26:39 > 0:26:42They're far lower down that chain of domestication.

0:26:42 > 0:26:44- Can we have a closer look? - Yeah, let's go.

0:26:44 > 0:26:48- Super. We'll follow you.- We'll take you to the shed over here.

0:26:48 > 0:26:54- The space that we're providing in here is well in excess of the legal requirements.- God, yeah.

0:26:54 > 0:26:58I just believe you can't keep them clean and happy if you cram them in a shed.

0:26:58 > 0:27:02I might need a helper in here, I'm afraid. To help me catch one.

0:27:02 > 0:27:06Ah, lost him. Get them into the corner.

0:27:07 > 0:27:09- Thanks, Leonie. - Don't let him go.- No... ow!

0:27:09 > 0:27:12- I'll try and get a bigger one. - Sorry.- He's gone?- Yes.

0:27:12 > 0:27:16- There's a few gobbly ones here. - Ah, well done.- Well, done, Leonie.

0:27:16 > 0:27:19I will not let go of this one. Hello, mate.

0:27:21 > 0:27:23- They're nice, aren't they? - They are lovely.

0:27:23 > 0:27:27I think they're beautiful close up. These spotty feathers, they're gorgeous.

0:27:27 > 0:27:30It's a disco diva, this one.

0:27:30 > 0:27:34And they are fantastic characters. They've got a lot more attitude than chickens.

0:27:34 > 0:27:37Oh, yes. I know that if I let go of this one's legs, it's going to be...

0:27:37 > 0:27:39- He'll be off.- He's going to be off like John Travolta.

0:27:39 > 0:27:42- Three, two, one.- Three, two, one... leg it!

0:27:43 > 0:27:46- Look at him. - I think we can safely say

0:27:46 > 0:27:50- they never want to see you two again. - THEY LAUGH

0:27:50 > 0:27:53We've got a very holistic approach to the way that we farm here.

0:27:53 > 0:27:57And that starts right back at the stage of growing the food that we feed the chickens.

0:27:57 > 0:28:00We've done a lot of work in the last few years

0:28:00 > 0:28:05creating wildlife habitats around the edge of the crops and also within them.

0:28:05 > 0:28:08And the idea is then you're encouraging beneficial wildlife

0:28:08 > 0:28:11which helps with the husbandry of the crops.

0:28:11 > 0:28:16- But also I love the fact that the farm is alive with wildlife.- Yes.

0:28:16 > 0:28:19What we can do now maybe is let them out.

0:28:19 > 0:28:22JAUNTY MUSIC PLAYS

0:28:25 > 0:28:29Like a lass with a raincoat over her head running for a bus.

0:28:29 > 0:28:32- They've got really strong legs, haven't they?- Yeah, they have.

0:28:32 > 0:28:37They're bred to run. And I honestly think that meat is going to have a lot more character

0:28:37 > 0:28:39if it's from an animal or a bird

0:28:39 > 0:28:43that's experienced as natural a life as we as farmers can give them.

0:28:43 > 0:28:48- Well, brilliant.- Great. Good on you, Leonie.- Hats off to you. Can't wait to taste your guinea fowl.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51- Shall we go to the kitchen, then? - Oh, yes.- Oh, yes.

0:28:54 > 0:28:56Yes! So, Leonie, do you have any cooking tips?

0:28:56 > 0:29:00One of the most important things to remember with guinea fowl,

0:29:00 > 0:29:03you haven't got the sort of fat covering you'd have on a chicken.

0:29:03 > 0:29:05So, treat it a bit more like a game bird.

0:29:05 > 0:29:08Guinea fowl can take some good spicing and good flavours, can't it?

0:29:08 > 0:29:12Yeah. I mean, you shouldn't be afraid of using flavours with it.

0:29:12 > 0:29:14I'm going to have a piece of thigh.

0:29:15 > 0:29:19- Oh, yeah. Goodness me!- So, you're really getting a good...

0:29:19 > 0:29:21- Yes.- Robust flavour from that, hopefully.

0:29:21 > 0:29:25If somebody's familiar to eating chicken they're going to love guinea fowl, aren't they?

0:29:25 > 0:29:27I've made a casserole.

0:29:27 > 0:29:31It's basically a white wine version of coq au vin.

0:29:31 > 0:29:35Guinea fowl really stands up well to casseroling - it keeps its texture.

0:29:35 > 0:29:37Oh, that's lovely. Oh, yeah.

0:29:37 > 0:29:39Let's go and choose you a couple.

0:29:39 > 0:29:41- Cor, yes. - They're lovely, aren't they?

0:29:41 > 0:29:43I think you'll do well with these.

0:29:43 > 0:29:46- We cannot fail to win with them, Dave.- Fantastic.

0:29:46 > 0:29:49- Thank you very much.- Well, all the best with them.

0:29:57 > 0:30:00To take on James, we'll use both the breasts and the thighs

0:30:00 > 0:30:03of the guinea fowl, served with a caramelised apple risotto.

0:30:03 > 0:30:07And we'll complete the dish with another true taste of Gloucestershire.

0:30:13 > 0:30:16When you're riding around this county in spring time,

0:30:16 > 0:30:19it's impossible to avoid the golden hue of the rape fields.

0:30:19 > 0:30:23And now they produce a home-grown rival to olive oil.

0:30:23 > 0:30:26When faced with poor prices for his crops, farmer Hamish Campbell

0:30:26 > 0:30:30took a gamble and began to make his own cold-pressed rapeseed oil.

0:30:30 > 0:30:36The entire process from harvesting to bottling takes place right here on the family farm.

0:30:37 > 0:30:41- Hello, are you Hamish? - I am.- Hamish the oil man?

0:30:41 > 0:30:44Here's a bottle each. This our cold-pressed rapeseed oil.

0:30:44 > 0:30:46All made and grown on the farm.

0:30:46 > 0:30:49Now, rapeseed oil, it's a good alternative to olive oil, isn't it?

0:30:49 > 0:30:51It's very low in saturated fats.

0:30:51 > 0:30:54Only 7%. Most olive oils are between 9 and 15.

0:30:54 > 0:30:57And a vegetable oil can be as high as 20%.

0:30:57 > 0:31:01Because of the way we produce it, it's just a very natural, unadulterated product.

0:31:01 > 0:31:04Most people say it's either nutty or asparagus.

0:31:04 > 0:31:07- Oh, yeah.- Oh, yeah. It's lovely. Lovely great nutty flavour to it.

0:31:07 > 0:31:10Hamish, what's the difference between your oil

0:31:10 > 0:31:14and a standard vegetable oil, that you would get in a supermarket?

0:31:14 > 0:31:17Normal bottle of oil is refined.

0:31:17 > 0:31:20So, it's chemically extracted using hexane and paraffin.

0:31:20 > 0:31:23It's then deodorised, anti-foaming agents are added.

0:31:23 > 0:31:27- That's why you get a very see-through bland product. - Sounds dreadful.

0:31:27 > 0:31:31Hamish, I'm really interested to see the whole pressing process that you do with the oil.

0:31:31 > 0:31:34- Is there any chance of having a look?- Yeah, do.- Brilliant.

0:31:36 > 0:31:39These are some of our fields behind me. That's a field of rapeseed

0:31:39 > 0:31:44being grown on Cotswold limestone brash. It's a very shallow soil.

0:31:44 > 0:31:47Very free draining. So it dries out very quickly.

0:31:47 > 0:31:49And we feel it adds to the flavour.

0:31:53 > 0:31:55Right. Well, this is some rapeseed coming in.

0:31:55 > 0:31:59The yellow flowers you see are the, the rapeseed being pollinated.

0:31:59 > 0:32:04It sets a flower and after flowering, each plant sets like a pod.

0:32:04 > 0:32:06- It looks like a little pea pod. - Right.

0:32:06 > 0:32:10Inside that pea pod is lots of these tiny little black seeds.

0:32:10 > 0:32:12It looks like caviar.

0:32:12 > 0:32:18- I wish it was.- Yeah.- So, the little pods get crushed in the combine and that's what comes out.

0:32:18 > 0:32:21- These little black seeds. - What happens next, Hamish?

0:32:22 > 0:32:24- Wow.- This is where it all happens.

0:32:24 > 0:32:25Very simple process.

0:32:25 > 0:32:31- Obviously the rape is cleaned, and then falls down into the tiny little hopper above the press.- Yes.

0:32:31 > 0:32:33And then it goes through a very slow squeezing process.

0:32:33 > 0:32:36We don't crush the rapeseed. We squeeze it.

0:32:36 > 0:32:41- Right.- And as you can see the oil very slowly comes out underneath the presses.

0:32:41 > 0:32:44This is a very simple process.

0:32:44 > 0:32:47And therefore you get a really good high quality unadulterated oil.

0:32:47 > 0:32:50- Brilliant.- And that's the residue of the husks, really?

0:32:50 > 0:32:53Yes, that is cold-pressed cake.

0:32:53 > 0:32:55And we either use that for animal feed,

0:32:55 > 0:32:58- some people use it to heat houses in wood burners.- Oh, brilliant.

0:32:58 > 0:33:01It's great. There's nothing wasted.

0:33:01 > 0:33:03- I'm a convert to rapeseed. - Well, I am too.- It's great.

0:33:03 > 0:33:07- That's what we want. - You could call that Gloucestershire crude, couldn't you?- Yeah.

0:33:07 > 0:33:10- We're not quite JR yet. But... - THEY LAUGH

0:33:11 > 0:33:14Here we go. We've come up with something a bit different.

0:33:14 > 0:33:17- Because you did really.- Yeah.- We've shied away from the conventional.

0:33:17 > 0:33:19- So, you've gone for guinea fowl. - Yes.

0:33:19 > 0:33:23- We're doing a celebration of guinea fowl. - It's like two meals in one.

0:33:23 > 0:33:26We're doing the breast with a lime and pepper paste, really.

0:33:26 > 0:33:29Served with a Gloucestershire apple risotto.

0:33:29 > 0:33:33And we've got a lovely micro salad with a rapeseed and citrus vinaigrette.

0:33:33 > 0:33:35And then the thighs are going to be boned.

0:33:35 > 0:33:38- And we're making a rapeseed oil rocket pesto.- I'm concerned.

0:33:38 > 0:33:41- I am concerned now.- See, see?

0:33:41 > 0:33:46But will the local diners think our dish is good enough to beat James in the blind tasting?

0:33:46 > 0:33:49Now, what we're going to do though...

0:33:49 > 0:33:52We're just burning off their feathers, basically.

0:33:52 > 0:33:55Just any little... any little claws or feathers.

0:33:55 > 0:33:58- And this tightens up the meat, doesn't it?- It tightens the skin up.

0:33:58 > 0:34:01Makes the skin a bit more resilient when they cook.

0:34:01 > 0:34:05- I think I've set mine on fire. - Hey, James. Hope you haven't got any customers next door.

0:34:05 > 0:34:08You won't have for long with this stink. "What are they cooking?"

0:34:08 > 0:34:12- Should I get the breasts off? - See, these are easier as well.

0:34:12 > 0:34:14A lot of guinea fowl have got the really wobbly breastbone.

0:34:14 > 0:34:19Whereas these, because they've been raised really nicely they've got nice straight strong bones.

0:34:19 > 0:34:21- You know Leonie, don't you? - I do, yeah, yeah.

0:34:21 > 0:34:24She's a top lass who produces great chickens and great guinea fowl.

0:34:24 > 0:34:26Nice tidy.

0:34:26 > 0:34:28Oh, look at that.

0:34:28 > 0:34:31- And the thighs and the meat.- That's a smashing portion, that.- Isn't it?

0:34:31 > 0:34:35It would easily feed four people by the time you got the legs and everything else.

0:34:35 > 0:34:39I've just flattened that thigh out. I've felt where the bone is.

0:34:39 > 0:34:43And I'm going to, with a smaller knife, loosen that bone away from the flesh.

0:34:43 > 0:34:46- It just comes away so nice and easily, doesn't it?- It does.

0:34:46 > 0:34:49- It's just lovely. There we are. - Look at that. Beautiful.

0:34:49 > 0:34:53Wash hands because I've been handling poultry and I'm now going on to the vegetable section.

0:34:53 > 0:34:57Great, look at that. Hey, you're going to get some stock out of that.

0:34:57 > 0:35:01Now, what we're going to do while Si carries on boning and portioning the thighs,

0:35:01 > 0:35:03we're going to make a pesto.

0:35:03 > 0:35:05We've got Gloucestershire cheeses.

0:35:05 > 0:35:08How about these - half single Gloucester and half Leonard Stanley?

0:35:08 > 0:35:12- I don't think you'll go wrong with that.- So, I'm putting the cheese in me processor.

0:35:12 > 0:35:15I've got a bowl of basil and rocket.

0:35:15 > 0:35:18Some toasted pine nuts. A glove of garlic.

0:35:18 > 0:35:21- Can't have pesto without garlic.- And we've roasted the pine nuts as well.

0:35:21 > 0:35:24Just to kind of come underneath that.

0:35:24 > 0:35:26Put some salt in there...

0:35:26 > 0:35:28and some black pepper.

0:35:28 > 0:35:30All that's missing is the oil.

0:35:30 > 0:35:33But first I'm going to blast this down to a paste.

0:35:33 > 0:35:36It's going down now.

0:35:36 > 0:35:38Now, just drizzle the oil in.

0:35:46 > 0:35:52- Wow. Oh, yes. Don't know why I'm sounding so surprised really. It really is very good.- Right, dude.

0:35:52 > 0:35:55- That's the thighs boned out.- Right. So, let's build.

0:35:55 > 0:35:59That's going to really help moisten those legs as well. It'll be lovely.

0:35:59 > 0:36:02Oh, aye. Cor, smashing. Look at that, lovely neat parcel.

0:36:02 > 0:36:04She's a thick-skinned bird.

0:36:07 > 0:36:08Right. And then we...

0:36:08 > 0:36:11because we want that to brown, don't we, on the top?

0:36:13 > 0:36:16- And repeat.- They're always the best bits of any bird, aren't they?

0:36:16 > 0:36:18- The legs. So, what's next?- Ah, now.

0:36:18 > 0:36:20- Apple risotto.- Apple risotto.

0:36:20 > 0:36:24- Shall I cut the apples?- Yeah. Some of this fabulous local butter.

0:36:24 > 0:36:28- Netherend Farm. As good an English butter as I've ever had.- Absolutely.

0:36:28 > 0:36:31So, we're just gonna put some butter in here like that.

0:36:31 > 0:36:34And then some rapeseed oil. About, I don't know, tablespoon.

0:36:36 > 0:36:39This is a litre of vegetable stock.

0:36:39 > 0:36:40So, we're going to heat that up.

0:36:40 > 0:36:46- I'm going to add the risotto rice and just coat it.- All I've done...

0:36:46 > 0:36:51I've got two apples. I've peeled them, cored them and sliced them.

0:36:51 > 0:36:55I've got some boiling water and I'm going to add the zest of one lemon.

0:36:55 > 0:36:58Blanch these apples for three minutes. Apples go in.

0:36:58 > 0:37:00You're just looking to just soften them?

0:37:00 > 0:37:04Yup. Then we're going to fry them in butter to caramelize them.

0:37:04 > 0:37:06Right, three minutes!

0:37:06 > 0:37:08That's these apples out.

0:37:08 > 0:37:11And I'm going to dry them on some kitchen roll.

0:37:11 > 0:37:14Put me butter back on. Right, apples go in.

0:37:14 > 0:37:18And there's still bits of lemon zest clinging to those apples.

0:37:18 > 0:37:20The stock's hot enough now.

0:37:20 > 0:37:24So, all I'm going to do is just add a ladle at a time.

0:37:24 > 0:37:25Oh, look at that, man.

0:37:25 > 0:37:31- Oh, man, man.- And then just stir it until all of the moisture is absorbed into the rice.

0:37:31 > 0:37:34And then you add another ladle.

0:37:34 > 0:37:40And just keep repeating the process until all of that stock is absorbed into the rice.

0:37:40 > 0:37:42Those apples are looking really good.

0:37:42 > 0:37:45I'm going to use this good quality fatty bacon.

0:37:45 > 0:37:49To render it down to use the fat to sear the guinea fowl breasts.

0:37:49 > 0:37:52A splash of rapeseed oil in.

0:37:52 > 0:37:54Just to get it going.

0:37:56 > 0:38:00So, how long do you reckon that risotto's going to take to cook?

0:38:00 > 0:38:04- About 20 minutes. - For the paste, for the guinea fowl breasts, I've got some lime.

0:38:04 > 0:38:06Going to do some zest.

0:38:06 > 0:38:09- Full of really volatile oils, lime zest, isn't it?- Yeah.

0:38:09 > 0:38:11Juice that half a lime.

0:38:11 > 0:38:13Some thyme.

0:38:13 > 0:38:18I'm just going to add three tablespoons of good English wine.

0:38:18 > 0:38:21This is from the Three Choirs vineyard.

0:38:21 > 0:38:24- Which is a local vineyard here, isn't it, James?- Yeah.

0:38:24 > 0:38:28And then I'm going to add three tablespoons of good old Gloucestershire apple juice.

0:38:28 > 0:38:30You cannot whack it, can you?

0:38:30 > 0:38:35Clove of garlic. Some cracked peppercorns.

0:38:35 > 0:38:38Some salt, pepper...

0:38:38 > 0:38:41and a couple of tablespoons of rapeseed oil.

0:38:41 > 0:38:44Want me to whizz them up for you?

0:38:44 > 0:38:46Be lovely.

0:38:46 > 0:38:50- Great, dude. Them lardons are doing canny.- Dip that. That's the rub.

0:38:53 > 0:38:57We just need to sear the guinea fowl breast in the reduced lardons.

0:39:00 > 0:39:02Whoa!

0:39:02 > 0:39:06Yeah, look - just, just nicely sealed.

0:39:06 > 0:39:09Yeah. The fat and the skin of those is rendered out lovely, isn't it?

0:39:09 > 0:39:12I'm going to take this off, dude.

0:39:12 > 0:39:14And just let it sit for a minute.

0:39:14 > 0:39:17- Put them in there. - Yeah, they're lovely, eh?

0:39:17 > 0:39:21I'm just going to give these a couple of slashes.

0:39:21 > 0:39:23- Just to help the rub penetrate? - Yup.- Yeah.

0:39:23 > 0:39:26- Lush. They look great.- Yeah.

0:39:26 > 0:39:29- This is quite intense, so... - Not going to need a lot of that

0:39:29 > 0:39:32- which that much pepper and lime in it, is it?- No. Into the oven.

0:39:32 > 0:39:34Moderate, 180... 15 minutes.

0:39:34 > 0:39:36Right.

0:39:36 > 0:39:38Now, I'm going to add the parmesan to the risotto.

0:39:38 > 0:39:42Because if we use any other cheese then parmesan, it has the chance of splitting.

0:39:42 > 0:39:45Becomes oily and it separates. We don't want that.

0:39:45 > 0:39:49- These apples have come up lovely colour.- Haven't they?- Look at that.

0:39:49 > 0:39:51Now, a few sage leaves.

0:39:51 > 0:39:53Just chop it nice and finely.

0:39:53 > 0:39:55So, we're going to put that in there like that.

0:39:55 > 0:40:00- I'm just going to add the apples.- I can start doing the breasts.- Right.

0:40:00 > 0:40:02- Look at that lovely caramelization there.- Yup.

0:40:06 > 0:40:08I'm with you.

0:40:08 > 0:40:12Oh, aye. That's what I thought. I think we're there, Kingy.

0:40:12 > 0:40:16- Grand, just going to dress it. - Rapeseed and citrus vinaigrette.

0:40:16 > 0:40:21- I think you've done justice to some really good produce there. Fantastic.- There we have it.

0:40:21 > 0:40:25- Really good job.- A celebration of guinea fowl, from Gloucestershire.

0:40:25 > 0:40:30- With an apple risotto. - A fabulous stuffed guinea fowl thigh with lovely pesto.

0:40:30 > 0:40:34And a nice kind of micro salad with a rapeseed and citrus vinaigrette.

0:40:38 > 0:40:42- There you are, James. Tell us what you think. - I'm really keen to try this thigh.

0:40:42 > 0:40:45Because I think that's going to be absolutely brilliant.

0:40:45 > 0:40:48And the skin's lovely and crispy. And it's really nice and tender.

0:40:50 > 0:40:54- What do we reckon? - I think that's brilliant. Pesto's quite rich, you know.

0:40:54 > 0:40:59- Yeah.- But the citrus really brings out that nice balance. Gives it a nice edge.

0:40:59 > 0:41:02And I bet this risotto's just as good as well. So...

0:41:04 > 0:41:07I think I'm up against it, to be fair.

0:41:08 > 0:41:14It's crunch time. The diners here will taste both dishes but without any idea who cooked which.

0:41:14 > 0:41:19First up is James's fillet of zander with crayfish jelly and a 60-degree egg yolk.

0:41:19 > 0:41:24Well, I was impressed by the foam. My taste buds were zooming.

0:41:24 > 0:41:28Everybody thinks of Gloucestershire as being old-fashioned and stuffy.

0:41:28 > 0:41:32But actually it's quite contemporary and I think the dish was like that.

0:41:32 > 0:41:37The cheek...the crust was really crisp and then really soft cheek inside. Lovely.

0:41:37 > 0:41:41The vegetables were just on the bite. And the duck egg and the froth and things,

0:41:41 > 0:41:42they really complemented the fish.

0:41:42 > 0:41:47It was cooked to perfection. It was fantastic. It's just not a particularly tasty fish.

0:41:47 > 0:41:51Very unusual presentation. And the flavour was beautiful. I finished everything on the plate.

0:41:51 > 0:41:55'That seemed to go down very well. How will our dish fare?'

0:41:55 > 0:41:57The apple risotto I loved.

0:41:57 > 0:42:01- I could go home and cook that. - In the thigh was pesto and basil,

0:42:01 > 0:42:04and things that I wouldn't have put with a guinea fowl. Lots of ideas.

0:42:04 > 0:42:08High point? Definitely the thigh, I think. Really enjoyed that.

0:42:08 > 0:42:11The breast for me was was a touch on the dry side.

0:42:11 > 0:42:14I liked the risotto. The micro salad... it's a bit hit and miss.

0:42:14 > 0:42:16I loved the colour of the salad, as well.

0:42:16 > 0:42:21- Because that complimented the pesto. - The rapeseed oil dressing...

0:42:21 > 0:42:24In May, Gloucestershire is covered with yellow fields everywhere.

0:42:24 > 0:42:28So, yeah, Gloucestershire. Definitely.

0:42:28 > 0:42:32- Hello, how are you? - APPLAUSE AND CHEERS

0:42:32 > 0:42:37- Wow! Now, that's a reception and a half, isn't it?- That was a double Gloucester welcome.- Wasn't it?

0:42:37 > 0:42:38That was brilliant, thank you.

0:42:38 > 0:42:43Well, we've had a great time. We've been blessed with the weather. So we've been flying around the lanes.

0:42:43 > 0:42:47And we'd just like to say thanks very much. Absolutely top drawer.

0:42:47 > 0:42:50Now to the nitty-gritty of it all really.

0:42:50 > 0:42:54For the fish dish, please, could I have a show of hands?

0:42:54 > 0:42:59One, two, three, four, five. OK, thank you.

0:42:59 > 0:43:02And for the guinea fowl dish, could I have a show of hands, please?

0:43:02 > 0:43:05One, two, three, four.

0:43:05 > 0:43:08The fish dish...was James's.

0:43:08 > 0:43:10APPLAUSE

0:43:14 > 0:43:17We've got to thank James for his hospitality.

0:43:17 > 0:43:21- You've got a fabulous restaurant here.- Yes.- And we've had a hoot.

0:43:21 > 0:43:23- We have.- Thank you so much.

0:43:23 > 0:43:29James's zander was a worthy winner. It was one of the most innovative dishes we've come up against.

0:43:29 > 0:43:34Gloucestershire is a beautiful county full of people who really know and love their food.

0:43:44 > 0:43:47Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:47 > 0:43:51Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk