0:00:03 > 0:00:07From chocolate coins to sugar mice, everyone has a festive favourite.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11Last year, we spent a phenomenal 800 million on sweets and chocolate
0:00:11 > 0:00:12in the run-up to Christmas.
0:00:14 > 0:00:17But this 21st-century spending spree has a long history,
0:00:17 > 0:00:20as four modern-day professionals are about find out.
0:00:21 > 0:00:25Our sweet-makers have already travelled through four centuries of
0:00:25 > 0:00:27confectionery history,
0:00:27 > 0:00:31grappling with archaic equipment and long-forgotten ingredients.
0:00:31 > 0:00:32Oh, it looks like a fingernail.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37Now they're heading back to experience life as confectioners
0:00:37 > 0:00:40in Christmases past.
0:00:40 > 0:00:42I have to remind myself this is not a real boar.
0:00:42 > 0:00:47Our modern sweet-makers will be exploring the origin of many of our
0:00:47 > 0:00:48favourite Christmas treats, and then
0:00:48 > 0:00:53also be recreating others that have been lost in the mists of time.
0:00:53 > 0:00:55It tastes like Christmas, like a Christmas cookie.
0:00:58 > 0:01:00They'll discover how confectioners
0:01:00 > 0:01:04created new sweet traditions in three formative eras.
0:01:06 > 0:01:09From grown-up Georgian spectacle...
0:01:09 > 0:01:11- Oh, now it's Christmas. - Looks beautiful.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13..to Victorian children's novelties.
0:01:13 > 0:01:15Eight for a penny.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21And finishing with the festive classics of a 1920s sweet shop.
0:01:22 > 0:01:24Have a lovely Christmas.
0:01:24 > 0:01:26Our sweet-makers will discover that
0:01:26 > 0:01:31the confectionery we enjoy over the festive period not only reflects,
0:01:31 > 0:01:35but has also helped to shape the very way we celebrate Christmas.
0:01:35 > 0:01:36Oh, my favourite.
0:01:38 > 0:01:39Green triangle.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54At Blists Hill in Shropshire, four confectioners are starting
0:01:54 > 0:01:57their journey back in time to Christmases past.
0:01:59 > 0:02:00I love Christmas.
0:02:00 > 0:02:04Christmas is the epitome of everything that I do.
0:02:04 > 0:02:06Diana Short is a trained chef and chocolatier.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10We work for about four months of the year towards Christmas,
0:02:10 > 0:02:12so Christmas is everything in our business.
0:02:13 > 0:02:18Andy Baxendale is a trouble-shooter for the confectionery industry.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21I always associate, well, candy canes,
0:02:21 > 0:02:24sugar mice and chocolates with Christmas, really.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27If I had to make one product, it would have all those elements in it.
0:02:29 > 0:02:31Oh, my God, I love Christmas.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35Cynthia Stroud designs bespoke wedding cakes.
0:02:35 > 0:02:37Christmas is the only time of year that you can wake up and have
0:02:37 > 0:02:41chocolate from the beginning, you know? It's brilliant.
0:02:41 > 0:02:43I love cinnamon and nutmeg and ginger.
0:02:43 > 0:02:45But I like some of the things that are coming back,
0:02:45 > 0:02:47so egg nog's a bit trendy this year.
0:02:47 > 0:02:52Paul A Young runs two boutique chocolate shops.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55I like the kind of classic and the modern mixed together.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58Anything that makes you feel like you've got a hug on the inside.
0:02:58 > 0:03:00They'll be needing all their skills
0:03:00 > 0:03:03as they cook their way through three centuries of the festive fare.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08And they're starting in the late 1700s,
0:03:08 > 0:03:11where they'll be stocking their Georgian shop window with
0:03:11 > 0:03:13enticing Yuletide treats.
0:03:20 > 0:03:22- Hello.- Hello.
0:03:22 > 0:03:23Seasons greetings.
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- Thank you.- And welcome to Georgian Christmas.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28Lovely. Excellent.
0:03:29 > 0:03:30So, I'm sure we are aware
0:03:30 > 0:03:35- of the commercial opportunity that Christmas represents.- Yeah.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39These days, we spend over 70 billion...
0:03:39 > 0:03:40- Wow.- ..in the run-up to Christmas.
0:03:40 > 0:03:44There's a whole range of things that that's spent on, from decorations,
0:03:44 > 0:03:47to party clothes, as well as kind of food and drink, as well.
0:03:47 > 0:03:52But in the Georgian era, the emphasis was really on feasting.
0:03:52 > 0:03:55With confectionery now hitting the high street,
0:03:55 > 0:03:56of course it's a huge time for you.
0:03:56 > 0:03:59I've got two bills here, confectioners' bills,
0:03:59 > 0:04:02and just reading through them, just looking at them,
0:04:02 > 0:04:05you can really see the impact that confectionery was having.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09So, this one, which is 1766, they buy three things in June.
0:04:09 > 0:04:11And then you get to December, and all of a sudden,
0:04:11 > 0:04:13there are ten things in December.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15And then on the 24th alone,
0:04:15 > 0:04:18there's this whole other chunk of bits and pieces.
0:04:18 > 0:04:21And they're spending over £3 on this -
0:04:21 > 0:04:23so about £450 in today's money.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27You've got things like Jordan almonds, fine raisins, clear cakes,
0:04:27 > 0:04:32confits, orange drops - a pound of Angelica, as well.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36So those flavours that are sweet, but are also very, very fruity.
0:04:36 > 0:04:39That's really quintessentially what it's all about.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42Nowadays, it's very much geared towards the 25th December.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- Yes.- But in the Georgian period,
0:04:45 > 0:04:48festivities would start as early as the 6th of December,
0:04:48 > 0:04:52and then really gearing up for Twelfth Night on the 6th of January.
0:04:52 > 0:04:536th to the 6th, a whole month?
0:04:53 > 0:04:57So this is a month of carousing and drinking,
0:04:57 > 0:04:59dancing and a general debauchery.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05For the Georgians,
0:05:05 > 0:05:07Christmas celebrations culminated on Twelfth Night.
0:05:08 > 0:05:10In the Christian calendar,
0:05:10 > 0:05:13this was the epiphany and marked the day the three Kings visited
0:05:13 > 0:05:14the infant Jesus.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20Twelfth Night had been celebrated since the Middle Ages,
0:05:20 > 0:05:22and central to the feast was the Twelfth Cake -
0:05:22 > 0:05:25a forerunner of our modern Christmas cake.
0:05:27 > 0:05:28By the 1750s, confectioners had
0:05:28 > 0:05:32turned what were once home-made cakes into beautifully
0:05:32 > 0:05:35decorated centrepieces for their festive shop window.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40To create the Twelfth Cakes for their shop,
0:05:40 > 0:05:43our sweet-makers will be working in a kitchen stocked with only
0:05:43 > 0:05:46the ingredients and equipment of the day.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- Ooh!- Ooh!- I like this.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55- What's that? - Pomegranates.- Pomegranates.
0:05:55 > 0:05:57Angelica root, yes.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- That is amazing.- Oh, is that what it is? You've got Angelica?
0:06:00 > 0:06:03Guys, it's 24th of December.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05- Oh, Christmas Eve.- Oh, my gosh.
0:06:07 > 0:06:08As well as their cakes,
0:06:08 > 0:06:12our confectioners will be filling their Georgian shop with enticing
0:06:12 > 0:06:15festive delicacies sold during the era.
0:06:17 > 0:06:19You remember the bills that we looked at?
0:06:19 > 0:06:21Well, here they are again.
0:06:21 > 0:06:24And on here are some very, very telling items.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27So if we look down the list, we have Jordan almonds.
0:06:29 > 0:06:35In 1766, four pounds of Jordan almonds cost six shillings -
0:06:35 > 0:06:37the equivalent of around £40 today.
0:06:38 > 0:06:42These imported luxuries were the basis of a festive treat which no
0:06:42 > 0:06:44confectioner's window would be without.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49Now, have you heard of a thing called a sugarplum?
0:06:49 > 0:06:51- Yeah.- Yeah.- Don't know what it is.
0:06:51 > 0:06:52- Any idea what it is? - Sugarplum fairy.
0:06:52 > 0:06:56- A plum covered in sugar?- No, you would be forgiven thinking it was,
0:06:56 > 0:06:59and I always think there's something quite nice about the idea somehow of
0:06:59 > 0:07:00having a plum sparkling.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- Yeah.- You often find mention of plums in Georgian recipes.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06Things like plum pudding and plum pottage.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10Plum just means dried fruit, but in this case, plum means a nut.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14- So it is a sugared almond. - Sugared almonds!- Wow.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- Have a lot of fun. - Thank you very much.
0:07:17 > 0:07:21The sugarplum - or sugar almond - recipe comes from a 1772 book,
0:07:21 > 0:07:23the Court And Country Confectioner.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28It explains how the layers of sugar have to be slowly built up -
0:07:28 > 0:07:31a process that can take all day.
0:07:31 > 0:07:34So Paul and Andy are keen to get going.
0:07:34 > 0:07:36- So...- Sugared almonds.
0:07:36 > 0:07:38- Lovely.- So we need some almonds.
0:07:38 > 0:07:41And we need to dry them in the balancing pan.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43We've got our fire on, ready.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45- Yeah.- So, I'm going to grab my stool.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48OK, you warm those up. I'll make some gum arabic solution.
0:07:48 > 0:07:49Smashing. Let's get these in.
0:07:54 > 0:07:58The balancing pan is a piece of equipment confectioners have used
0:07:58 > 0:07:59since Tudor times.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03Suspended over a charcoal burner,
0:08:03 > 0:08:07the pan slowly dries the nuts before they can be sealed with a syrup made
0:08:07 > 0:08:10from sugar and gum arabic - a type of sap.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13I'll just warm these through and take them out if I need to
0:08:13 > 0:08:16because they might get a bit too hot.
0:08:16 > 0:08:18It's really hard, this gum stuff.
0:08:18 > 0:08:20It is interesting stuff, though, isn't it?
0:08:20 > 0:08:23Exactly. It comes out of the side of the tree.
0:08:23 > 0:08:25- Wow.- Are they nice and dry now?
0:08:25 > 0:08:28They're very, very dry and just warm.
0:08:28 > 0:08:31- OK, coming over.- OK. Great, we're ready.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36Mind your fingers until I've got it on.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40That is so much more syrupy than I thought it would be.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43Woo, it's hot.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49But they're drying, they're getting crystal-y.
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- They're getting well sealed.- Yeah.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54The ridges and the skin on the almonds are quite
0:08:54 > 0:08:55good for holding on.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58Probably best that we didn't blanch them, as well, because...
0:08:58 > 0:08:59Oh, yeah, definitely.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05The nuts will now need at least 20 coats of sugar syrup before becoming
0:09:05 > 0:09:08the sweet temptations familiar to the Georgian customer.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12I'm just thinking about how many layers of sugar we've got to get
0:09:12 > 0:09:13on these to make them really smooth.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17We'll share the load, I think. We'll take shifts.
0:09:18 > 0:09:20The confectioners' clientele
0:09:20 > 0:09:23included both the aristocracy and an increasingly
0:09:23 > 0:09:27wealthy middle class who were keen to show off their new status.
0:09:27 > 0:09:30They flocked to Britain's flourishing high streets
0:09:30 > 0:09:33to spend money on luxury goods.
0:09:33 > 0:09:35Enticed into a shop by familiar
0:09:35 > 0:09:38festive treats such as sugarplums
0:09:38 > 0:09:42and Twelfth Cake, browsing customers might be persuaded to try some new,
0:09:42 > 0:09:45more exotic Christmas products.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48Spongati?
0:09:48 > 0:09:50- Spongati.- Or Italian Christmas cake.
0:09:50 > 0:09:51Oh, Christmas cake!
0:09:51 > 0:09:55It says five yolks of fresh eggs, 1lb 7oz of sugar.
0:09:55 > 0:09:57- OK.- Bread.
0:09:57 > 0:09:59- Bread?- Oh, breadcrumbs.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01Almonds.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03Cloves.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06So, obviously, we have cinnamon and clove, it's all those sort of,
0:10:06 > 0:10:09you know, Christmassy, gingerbread-y kind of spices.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12- Yeah.- So this is going to be kind of like panforte, maybe.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18In 1820, Italian confectioner Guglielmo Jarrin
0:10:18 > 0:10:22introduced his London customers to spongati -
0:10:22 > 0:10:26a Christmas treat from his hometown near Parma.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30Jarrin was among a number of Italians who settled in London,
0:10:30 > 0:10:32bringing their Christmas traditions with them.
0:10:34 > 0:10:35Sugar.
0:10:36 > 0:10:38Oh, yeah.
0:10:42 > 0:10:44Gosh, this seems like a lot of sugar.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49Spongati were a northern Italian winter treat,
0:10:49 > 0:10:52claimed to have been made since Roman times.
0:10:53 > 0:10:56This particular recipe features a spicy filling encased in a hard,
0:10:56 > 0:10:58sugar paste shell.
0:10:59 > 0:11:01This thing's really thirsty.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06I feel like I'm adding loads and loads and loads of liquid
0:11:06 > 0:11:09- and it's just vanishing. - How are you doing?
0:11:09 > 0:11:11This is a nightmare, this stuff.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15- What you making?- It's kind of like a panforte-type thing.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- Oh, look!- Spongati. - Can I taste it?- Yeah.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23So it's kind of like a sugary, almond-y paste with spices,
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- held together with egg yolk. - That is delicious. That is one
0:11:25 > 0:11:29- of the nicest things I think I might have ever eaten. Honestly.- Wow.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32- VOICEOVER:- With the shell and filling ready,
0:11:32 > 0:11:35the spongati can now be assembled in wooden moulds.
0:11:35 > 0:11:36Yeah, those, they are nice.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38- Right.- So I grab wafer paper. - Wafer paper.
0:11:38 > 0:11:40So, if I take a bit of this...
0:11:43 > 0:11:45So, this gets pressed in.
0:11:46 > 0:11:48So it's, like, half a layer.
0:11:48 > 0:11:51- VOICEOVER:- Intricate moulds, sometimes called boards or cards,
0:11:51 > 0:11:54were often skilfully carved by the confectioners themselves.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57Jarrin began his London career making moulds
0:11:57 > 0:11:59for Twelfth Cake decorations.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- It has to be quite a thin layer. - I've never seen anything quite
0:12:01 > 0:12:04- like it, to be honest, the mould. - That has not gone according to plan.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08Hang on.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11It's sticking more than I thought, to be honest.
0:12:11 > 0:12:15Is it? Yeah, it's sticking to this wood here, as well.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20- Ooh.- Oh!- Much better!
0:12:20 > 0:12:21- Oh, look!- Lovely.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23- That looks beautiful.- That's better.
0:12:23 > 0:12:25Do you think we should be singing a Christmas carol at this point?
0:12:25 > 0:12:27# Good King Wenceslas looked out
0:12:27 > 0:12:30- # From his bedroom window - On the feast of Stephen
0:12:30 > 0:12:33# When the snow lay round about
0:12:33 > 0:12:35# Deep and crisp and even
0:12:35 > 0:12:38# Brightly shone the moon that night
0:12:38 > 0:12:40# Though the frost was cru-el
0:12:40 > 0:12:47# When a poor man came in sight gathering winter fu-el. #
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- That's the only verse I know. - Me, too!
0:12:50 > 0:12:55- He was out for pizza, wasn't he? - Eh?- Deep pan, crisp and even.
0:12:55 > 0:12:57LAUGHTER
0:12:59 > 0:13:00Don't you want a taste?
0:13:00 > 0:13:02Yes. Yes, please. Never had it, ever.
0:13:02 > 0:13:06- VOICEOVER:- The spongati SHOULD be dried in a low oven overnight,
0:13:06 > 0:13:09but our sweet-makers are eager to taste them straightaway.
0:13:11 > 0:13:14It's... It tastes like Christmas. Like a Christmas cookie.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19- VOICEOVER:- They never became a Christmas classic here,
0:13:19 > 0:13:22but spongati are still eaten in the region around Palma in Italy,
0:13:22 > 0:13:23where Jarrin came from.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28- I would make those. Beautiful. - I was thinking I would make those.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- Great presents for people. - Yeah. I'd make those.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35- Unusual, as well.- A little bit of chocolate on the bottom there.- Oh...
0:13:39 > 0:13:41Whilst spongati were a new import,
0:13:41 > 0:13:45many of the confectioners' festive treats, such as sugarplums,
0:13:45 > 0:13:48dated back to at least Tudor times.
0:13:53 > 0:13:56And some Georgian Christmas traditions
0:13:56 > 0:13:58had even more ancient roots.
0:14:02 > 0:14:06In pre-Christian Britain, winter solstice, or Yuletide,
0:14:06 > 0:14:09had long been celebrated by pagans.
0:14:09 > 0:14:13The shortest days of the year were marked by feasting and drinking.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16Evergreen plants were revered as a sign of life during the dark
0:14:16 > 0:14:20winter months, and fire rituals banished the darkness,
0:14:20 > 0:14:22welcoming the light of days to come.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28In an echo of these earlier times, Georgians decorated their shops
0:14:28 > 0:14:31and houses with holly, mistletoe and ivy.
0:14:32 > 0:14:36And the largest log they could find was dragged into the house on
0:14:36 > 0:14:40Christmas Eve and burnt throughout the 12 days of Christmas.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45Known as the Yule log,
0:14:45 > 0:14:48it brought warmth and light to the celebrations,
0:14:48 > 0:14:52but it was also believed to ward off evil and usher in prosperity
0:14:52 > 0:14:53for the year to come.
0:14:59 > 0:15:02An echo of the pre-Christian Yuletide
0:15:02 > 0:15:05also found its way into the Georgian kitchen.
0:15:07 > 0:15:09- Oh, It smells so good.- It smells really lovely, actually.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13It smells like gin. It smells really strongly of gin.
0:15:13 > 0:15:17Angelica has been used as a medicinal plant since ancient times,
0:15:17 > 0:15:21and today it can be bought as bright green diamonds for cake decorations.
0:15:22 > 0:15:24They taste quite sweet.
0:15:24 > 0:15:26That first bite.
0:15:26 > 0:15:27Then not very nice.
0:15:29 > 0:15:31Boiled and then coated in sugar,
0:15:31 > 0:15:35candied Angelica was a popular item on Christmas shopping bills.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38It will come in useful to our confectioners
0:15:38 > 0:15:40when they decorate their Twelfth Cakes.
0:15:46 > 0:15:48That's gorgeous.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- Ta-da!- Look at the size of this... - Look at that.- Oh!
0:15:51 > 0:15:54- VOICEOVER:- Confectioners would often order rich fruitcakes from a baker's
0:15:54 > 0:15:56rather than making their own.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03The ideal shape for a Georgian Twelfth Cake was domed,
0:16:03 > 0:16:05and so our sweet makers are building them up and covering them
0:16:05 > 0:16:08with almond paste - an early version of marzipan.
0:16:14 > 0:16:15- What are you doing?- Hm?
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- Are you eating it?- No.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19Good.
0:16:19 > 0:16:21It is delicious, though.
0:16:21 > 0:16:22Beautiful.
0:16:22 > 0:16:24That's it. I can't wait to get them decorated up.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26- So now we just need to leave them to dry.- Yeah.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- VOICEOVER:- Before the cakes can be decorated,
0:16:28 > 0:16:32the almond paste needs to dry out for at least a day.
0:16:32 > 0:16:36# Silent night
0:16:36 > 0:16:40# Holy night
0:16:40 > 0:16:43# All is calm... #
0:16:43 > 0:16:45Christmas Day itself was a brief respite
0:16:45 > 0:16:47for tradesmen like confectioners.
0:16:48 > 0:16:49Shops would be closed,
0:16:49 > 0:16:52and it was customary for workers to have a day of rest and worship.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55# Mother and Child
0:16:55 > 0:17:03# Holy infant so tender and mild
0:17:03 > 0:17:05# Sleep... #
0:17:05 > 0:17:08It wasn't until 1871 that Boxing Day
0:17:08 > 0:17:11was made an official public holiday, too.
0:17:11 > 0:17:13So on the 26th of December,
0:17:13 > 0:17:15it's straight back to work for our confectioners.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20Paul and Cynthia are making a start on the icing for the Twelfth Cake
0:17:20 > 0:17:22by mixing egg whites with icing sugar.
0:17:24 > 0:17:27I'm glad we're doing royal icing because when I was a kid, when I was
0:17:27 > 0:17:29much younger, it was always royal icing on the Christmas cake.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32- Yeah.- Really, really hard, you could barely get through it.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34- Yeah.- And then everything went to fondant.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37- Yeah.- But I love royal icing for Christmas because you can spike it.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- Yeah.- Snowy spikes. - And it's so easy to do.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42Yeah. It is. Then everyone had their way of eating it.
0:17:42 > 0:17:44Some people didn't want cake and just wanted icing,
0:17:44 > 0:17:46and some peeled their marzipan off and just had the icing.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50- And then you swap the bits you like. - Of course.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- I bet the Georgians did the same thing.- Exactly.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- In the middle?- Yeah, on the... - Say when. How much?- Keep going.
0:17:57 > 0:17:59Loads and loads and loads.
0:17:59 > 0:18:00Oh, now it's Christmas.
0:18:00 > 0:18:04It looks beautiful. Well, you're not going to get it glass-smooth.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- No.- So do you want to do, like, a swirl or something?
0:18:08 > 0:18:11Yeah, I don't mind seeing palette-knife marks on it, no.
0:18:11 > 0:18:15What do you feel like? What is your creative mind telling you?
0:18:15 > 0:18:17My creative mind is telling me...
0:18:18 > 0:18:21..that I really want a piping bag.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25- They're not invented yet. - Yeah.- Use your fingers.- No.
0:18:25 > 0:18:29Ooh. Can you come and do some ceilings at our house?
0:18:29 > 0:18:30LAUGHTER
0:18:30 > 0:18:32- Artex.- Artex, yeah!
0:18:36 > 0:18:38To appeal to their wealthy customers,
0:18:38 > 0:18:41confectioners would mimic the latest decorative fashions of the day
0:18:41 > 0:18:43on their Twelfth Cakes.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48And in the late 18th century, Wedgwood-coloured Jasperware
0:18:48 > 0:18:51with its white reliefs were all the rage.
0:18:52 > 0:18:55Diana and Andy are hoping to replicate the effect
0:18:55 > 0:18:57with sugar paste.
0:18:57 > 0:18:58Yay!
0:19:01 > 0:19:02That's more like it.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06Wedgwood was like sage green, so we'll see...
0:19:06 > 0:19:07We'll add the spinach powder.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- We haven't got any blue, though, have we?- We haven't.
0:19:11 > 0:19:15Artificial food dyes hadn't yet been invented,
0:19:15 > 0:19:19so colour had been made from natural sources like spinach and turmeric.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24Oh, beautiful.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28With all the time that went into creating spectacular Twelfth Cakes,
0:19:28 > 0:19:29they could be very lucrative.
0:19:31 > 0:19:32Some were sold at one guinea -
0:19:32 > 0:19:37about a third of a domestic servant's annual income.
0:19:37 > 0:19:39- I could stand here and watch her all day.- I know.
0:19:41 > 0:19:43But even for those at the bottom of the ladder,
0:19:43 > 0:19:46there was something to look forward to on December 26th.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51- Wow.- Hey.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55Look at this hive of industry. This is beautiful.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- Thank you.- It's good, isn't it?
0:19:57 > 0:20:01Anyone have any familiarity with this object?
0:20:01 > 0:20:03- A money box?- A money box?
0:20:03 > 0:20:04Looks like a money box, doesn't it?
0:20:04 > 0:20:07What this is is a Christmas box.
0:20:07 > 0:20:09Well, a replica of what a Georgian Christmas box
0:20:09 > 0:20:11might have looked like.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19Poorly paid workers, such as apprentices and delivery boys,
0:20:19 > 0:20:22would appeal to the charity of local tradespeople,
0:20:22 > 0:20:26asking for a few pennies as a Christmas tip for their money boxes.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31They were so central, they were kind of an important tradition that
0:20:31 > 0:20:34we get the name Boxing Day, which is the day that follows Christmas...
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- Oh!- ..from this very thing.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39And I thought that was to do with opening boxes and presents
0:20:39 > 0:20:42- and things like that.- I think a lot of people think that.
0:20:42 > 0:20:43Was that then opened on Boxing...?
0:20:43 > 0:20:45So the person could have it on Boxing Day?
0:20:45 > 0:20:48It was indeed. And would you like to see how that was done?
0:20:48 > 0:20:52- Yeah!- OK. Gather round.- Uh-oh. OK.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- Oh, you're not, really?- No.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- That's quite precious - they've made it.- Let's keep it real.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03Oh, my goodness!
0:21:06 > 0:21:09A Christmas box could be very lucrative.
0:21:09 > 0:21:14An account from 1735 tells of an apprentice who collected
0:21:14 > 0:21:16£3 in his box - more than many working people
0:21:16 > 0:21:18could earn in an entire year.
0:21:24 > 0:21:26There we go.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28They're still warm.
0:21:28 > 0:21:29After 20 layers of sugar,
0:21:29 > 0:21:32the sugarplums just need a final coat of colour.
0:21:32 > 0:21:35Cochineal red and saffron yellow.
0:21:37 > 0:21:40- That's fine. I think they look lovely.- Right.- Fabulous.
0:21:41 > 0:21:44Destined for crystal bowls in the shop window,
0:21:44 > 0:21:46our sweet-makers have reserved
0:21:46 > 0:21:48enough to decorate their grandest Twelfth Cake.
0:21:48 > 0:21:50Gosh, that looks great.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53Almonds have transformed it.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- Great.- Fantastic. - Well, I think they look amazing.
0:21:58 > 0:21:59I think that looks amazing.
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- I think they require a confectioners' high five.- That one?
0:22:03 > 0:22:05- Well done. - Well done, guys.- Well done.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- Lovely jubbly.- Right, chuck me those almonds, I'll get them out the way.
0:22:09 > 0:22:11- Packed up ready for t'shop. - For t'shop.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19Long before the Regent Street lights or visiting Santa's grotto
0:22:19 > 0:22:22in a department store became a Christmas appointment,
0:22:22 > 0:22:26going to see the Twelfth Cakes in the confectioner's shop was
0:22:26 > 0:22:29a highlight of the Georgian festive season.
0:22:31 > 0:22:35200 years later, the magic of a Christmas shop window
0:22:35 > 0:22:36still delights us.
0:22:38 > 0:22:41- Beautiful.- Stunning. - That's eye-catching, isn't it?
0:22:41 > 0:22:43I mean, it is absolutely authentic, isn't it? Wonderful.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45The sort of thing you take the children down to come and see.
0:22:45 > 0:22:47- Yeah.- Just going to have a look at the cake.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- Yeah. Great.- Very good. - Very happy.- Yeah, it's great.
0:22:52 > 0:22:55Twelfth Cakes were destined for Twelfth Night parties -
0:22:55 > 0:22:59a night when the social norms of Georgian society turned upside down.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08The lowliest partygoer could find themselves playing King or Queen
0:23:08 > 0:23:12for the night, and everyone feasted and drank till the early hours.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22Our confectioners are rewarding themselves
0:23:22 > 0:23:25for all their hard work with their own celebration.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32Happy Twelfth Night.
0:23:32 > 0:23:34- Hello.- Happy Twelfth Night.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37I don't think that Christmas is Christmas without alcohol,
0:23:37 > 0:23:39and the Georgians would have agreed.
0:23:39 > 0:23:42And especially if you're throwing a party, as you are, on Twelfth Night,
0:23:42 > 0:23:46you cannot just sit with empty cups in front of you.
0:23:46 > 0:23:49I present to you wine chocolate.
0:23:49 > 0:23:53- Ooh!- What?!- It is an excellent use for leftover port.
0:23:53 > 0:23:56- Oh!- Don't mind if I do.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58- Delicious. Smells amazing. - Beautiful.
0:23:58 > 0:24:02Like most of the rich delicacies in their shop window,
0:24:02 > 0:24:05this hot chocolate is not for children.
0:24:05 > 0:24:10It's wine chocolate - port mixed with melted chocolate and sugar.
0:24:10 > 0:24:12- Cheers.- Happy Twelfth Night. - Happy Twelfth Night.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14Indeed.
0:24:14 > 0:24:16- Oh, Lord.- That is yum.
0:24:16 > 0:24:19Wow, that is so intense, isn't it?
0:24:19 > 0:24:22Boozy, strong, delicious,
0:24:22 > 0:24:25and would make a party really go with a bang, wouldn't it?
0:24:25 > 0:24:27I like the Georgians.
0:24:27 > 0:24:30I've not seen you look this happy...
0:24:30 > 0:24:32LAUGHTER
0:24:32 > 0:24:33It's great.
0:24:37 > 0:24:40After the drinking came the party games.
0:24:44 > 0:24:47So, this game is a game called Snapdragon.
0:24:47 > 0:24:51I have just poured slightly heated brandy into this bowl of currants,
0:24:51 > 0:24:54and the idea is that everybody has to reach into the flame
0:24:54 > 0:24:56and pluck out a currant.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59And the person with the most currants is going to win the game.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01- That's brilliant.- Just before I set the brandy on fire,
0:25:01 > 0:25:03if you do decide to play this at home,
0:25:03 > 0:25:07now that you are all inspired to be like Georgians this Christmas,
0:25:07 > 0:25:09just make sure that you've got some water on stand-by
0:25:09 > 0:25:11and maybe a flame-retardant tablecloth?
0:25:11 > 0:25:12LAUGHTER
0:25:12 > 0:25:14I'm not saying it's going to be explosive, but...!
0:25:16 > 0:25:17Like the hot chocolate,
0:25:17 > 0:25:21this game is also definitely not meant for children.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24Oh, one at a time?
0:25:24 > 0:25:25Take as many as possible.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30- Ooh! - LAUGHTER
0:25:30 > 0:25:32That is why it's one at a time!
0:25:32 > 0:25:35LAUGHTER
0:26:01 > 0:26:04Our confectioners are entering the Victorian age,
0:26:04 > 0:26:07and the way we celebrate Christmas has changed again.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13- Wow.- There's a Christmas tree.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16If you try to recreate a traditional Christmas now,
0:26:16 > 0:26:18this is what you are after, isn't it?
0:26:18 > 0:26:21You know, dried oranges and little biscuits hanging on ribbons.
0:26:21 > 0:26:22And some candles.
0:26:23 > 0:26:25I was think that when we consider Christmas today,
0:26:25 > 0:26:29what we're really envisaging is the Victorian Christmas.
0:26:29 > 0:26:32The tree decorated up and a fire crackling in the corner,
0:26:32 > 0:26:34stockings hanging around it,
0:26:34 > 0:26:37perhaps some children all ruddy-cheeked and glowing.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42The cosy domestic focus of Victorian Christmas was inspired
0:26:42 > 0:26:45by the Queen herself.
0:26:45 > 0:26:47In 1848, the illustrated London News
0:26:47 > 0:26:50published a drawing of the young Queen
0:26:50 > 0:26:55with her husband Prince Albert and their children celebrating around a
0:26:55 > 0:26:57decorated Christmas tree -
0:26:57 > 0:27:01a tradition popular in Albert's home country, Germany.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05Soon, all over Britain,
0:27:05 > 0:27:08families were decorating a tree on Christmas Eve,
0:27:08 > 0:27:12with children at the very heart of this new Victorian ritual.
0:27:14 > 0:27:17They didn't invent a lot of the traditions that we see as part of
0:27:17 > 0:27:20Christmas today, so things like the tree and Father Christmas and carols
0:27:20 > 0:27:22all existed before the Victorian era.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25But what they did do is they took traditions really from across Europe
0:27:25 > 0:27:28and they sort of tweaked them,
0:27:28 > 0:27:32made them into what we know today as opposed to the previous incarnation
0:27:32 > 0:27:35of them. And one of the most interesting things, therefore,
0:27:35 > 0:27:38from your perspective, is that while the Victorians may have invented
0:27:38 > 0:27:41Christmas, it was Victorian confectioners
0:27:41 > 0:27:43that really drove it forward
0:27:43 > 0:27:45and who invented many of the traditions
0:27:45 > 0:27:48that today we couldn't imagine having Christmas without.
0:27:50 > 0:27:54There was no audience more receptive to the confectioner's innovations
0:27:54 > 0:27:56than children.
0:27:58 > 0:28:02During Victoria's reign, the price of sugar dropped by over 50%...
0:28:03 > 0:28:07..which meant festive treats could now be made at pocket-money prices.
0:28:08 > 0:28:13You are going to be stocking a small market stall for the Christmas fair.
0:28:13 > 0:28:15Awesome.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17Lots and lots of children will be coming to your stall
0:28:17 > 0:28:20and they will be buying something which may well become
0:28:20 > 0:28:21a family tradition for them.
0:28:24 > 0:28:26OK. A Victorian Christmas.
0:28:26 > 0:28:28- Victorian Christmas. - I'm excited already,
0:28:28 > 0:28:29but I'm already feeling under pressure.
0:28:29 > 0:28:31So, cheap jelly goods.
0:28:31 > 0:28:34- That says it all, doesn't it? - Doesn't sound great, does it?- No.
0:28:34 > 0:28:37- What's the recipe?- It says here, this is a cheap line.
0:28:37 > 0:28:38There's not much body in them,
0:28:38 > 0:28:40but they sell at a price and give satisfaction.
0:28:40 > 0:28:43- Well...- Profit.- Absolutely.
0:28:44 > 0:28:48Our confectioners will be making sweets to appeal to children
0:28:48 > 0:28:50at eight for a penny.
0:28:55 > 0:28:58To make any profit, the jellies will have to be mass produced,
0:28:58 > 0:29:01and so they'll be made in starch trays...
0:29:01 > 0:29:03We've got to get this really flat.
0:29:04 > 0:29:06Really flat. Really even.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09..a technique introduced by the Victorians.
0:29:11 > 0:29:14We should be able to press these in one by one.
0:29:15 > 0:29:16And lift.
0:29:16 > 0:29:18They look beautiful.
0:29:19 > 0:29:24The starch dehydrates the sugar, forming a crust around the jelly.
0:29:24 > 0:29:26Great. One set of pigs.
0:29:27 > 0:29:31Intricate moulds allowed Victorian confectioners to create novel,
0:29:31 > 0:29:32child-friendly shapes.
0:29:34 > 0:29:38Christmas favourites included sugar mice and the rather less familiar
0:29:38 > 0:29:40jelly pigs.
0:29:40 > 0:29:42The detail is fantastic.
0:29:42 > 0:29:45- They've got little ears. - They do, and a little wiggly tail.
0:29:45 > 0:29:48- Wow.- So you have to deal with them when it's liquid.
0:29:49 > 0:29:51Andy and Diana are mixing sugar,
0:29:51 > 0:29:54glucose and gelatine with water to make the cheap jellies.
0:29:55 > 0:29:58The product might be basic, but to add child appeal,
0:29:58 > 0:30:00they've got a few tricks up their sleeve.
0:30:02 > 0:30:05- Dig in.- Now we need colour, flavour. We will put the acid in last.
0:30:05 > 0:30:09They're using a new invention to colour the jelly -
0:30:09 > 0:30:10artificial dyes.
0:30:10 > 0:30:12It's coming. A bit more.
0:30:14 > 0:30:18In 1856, the first edible synthetic dye was discovered.
0:30:19 > 0:30:23Chemist Sir William Henry Perkin was working on a treatment for malaria
0:30:23 > 0:30:25and found a by-product from the experiment
0:30:25 > 0:30:30could produce a deep purple colour - mauveine.
0:30:30 > 0:30:32- Did it come out of the spoon?- Yeah.
0:30:32 > 0:30:34Other colours soon followed.
0:30:36 > 0:30:39Paul and Cynthia are also using dyes to colour their sugar mice.
0:30:42 > 0:30:46It's quite nice to work with pre-prepped colours,
0:30:46 > 0:30:49and also comes on so much more evenly.
0:30:49 > 0:30:51I feel like that needs to be darker to attract children.
0:30:51 > 0:30:53Definitely. It's a very grown-up colour, that.
0:30:53 > 0:30:57- It is very grown-up.- Oops!
0:30:58 > 0:31:02Sugar mice could be made with a cold fondant of icing sugar
0:31:02 > 0:31:06and egg white, or a hot fondant made by heating sugar, glucose and water.
0:31:08 > 0:31:10Both were a popular Christmas treat.
0:31:11 > 0:31:14I know that they're very English things - sugar mice.
0:31:14 > 0:31:17- Yeah?- Yeah. I've never actually tried one.
0:31:17 > 0:31:19You've never...
0:31:19 > 0:31:23- Sorry.- Aw! Your first sugar mouse will be today.
0:31:23 > 0:31:25- It will be - and it'll be one I made myself.- Brilliant.
0:31:25 > 0:31:28- Orange oil.- Yeah.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31- Is that the jelly nearly ready, Andy?- Yep.- Fantastic.
0:31:33 > 0:31:36Oh, it smells incredible. It smells like childhood orange.
0:31:42 > 0:31:44Look at that! Good technique.
0:31:47 > 0:31:49This is actually very quick.
0:31:49 > 0:31:53We'll be able to make hundreds and hundreds of jellies superfast.
0:31:53 > 0:31:55While Paul fills his starch moulds,
0:31:55 > 0:31:59Andy is using plaster versions to shape his hot-fondant sugar mice.
0:32:02 > 0:32:05The cold fondant versions also use hard moulds,
0:32:05 > 0:32:09which can be used again and again - in theory.
0:32:16 > 0:32:18These mice are starting to squeak.
0:32:18 > 0:32:20Eek, eek.
0:32:21 > 0:32:23There you go.
0:32:23 > 0:32:24Ah, that's brilliant.
0:32:25 > 0:32:29- VOICEOVER:- It's taken only two hours to make over a hundred
0:32:29 > 0:32:32jelly pigs and an infestation of sugar mice.
0:32:34 > 0:32:38I'll see your jellies and I'll raise you a couple of fondant sugar mice.
0:32:38 > 0:32:40Oh, lovely!
0:32:41 > 0:32:43- Powdery.- Wow!- Thank you.
0:32:43 > 0:32:44The definition's really nice.
0:32:44 > 0:32:50- Thank you.- Can I eat the string? - No.- You did them green, though.
0:32:51 > 0:32:55You've got icing all round your mouth, it's brilliant.
0:33:00 > 0:33:03Sugar mice were a vital ingredient in another Christmas custom
0:33:03 > 0:33:08popularised by Victorians - the Christmas stocking.
0:33:09 > 0:33:11For centuries, European children
0:33:11 > 0:33:14have received presents from Saint Nicholas in the days running up to
0:33:14 > 0:33:16his saint's day, the 6th of December.
0:33:18 > 0:33:20The hanging of stockings to be filled
0:33:20 > 0:33:23with these gifts was inspired by a traditional tale.
0:33:25 > 0:33:29According to the story, Saint Nicholas overheard a poor widower
0:33:29 > 0:33:32lamenting the fact he had no dowry for his daughters.
0:33:32 > 0:33:34As an act of charity, Saint Nicolas,
0:33:34 > 0:33:38under cover of darkness, crept into the widower's home
0:33:38 > 0:33:41and filled his daughter's stockings - that hung just above
0:33:41 > 0:33:44the fireplace to dry - full of gold coins.
0:33:50 > 0:33:52The Victorians embraced Saint Nicholas
0:33:52 > 0:33:55and his stockings as a Christmas Eve tradition.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00But it was an American illustrator, Thomas Nast,
0:34:00 > 0:34:05who, in the 1880s, created the Father Christmas we recognise today.
0:34:05 > 0:34:09Nast was inspired by the famous poem, A Visit From Saint Nicholas.
0:34:10 > 0:34:14'Twas the night before Christmas when all through the house
0:34:14 > 0:34:18Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse
0:34:18 > 0:34:21The stockings were hung by the chimney with care
0:34:21 > 0:34:25In hopes that Saint Nicholas soon would be there
0:34:25 > 0:34:28The children were nestled all snug in their beds
0:34:28 > 0:34:32While visions of sugarplums danced in their heads.
0:34:35 > 0:34:38It was an irresistible image.
0:34:38 > 0:34:41The child's Christmas stocking stuffed with treats
0:34:41 > 0:34:43was here to stay.
0:34:43 > 0:34:46- They do look nice when they're brushed off.- They do, yeah.
0:34:49 > 0:34:51And no stocking would be complete
0:34:51 > 0:34:54without a handful of the confectioner's wares.
0:34:56 > 0:34:58We really have got this down to a fine art, haven't we?
0:34:58 > 0:35:02- It's quick.- You can really see how this starts to make sense.
0:35:02 > 0:35:04At the beginning, I couldn't understand.
0:35:04 > 0:35:06I thought, "How can they possibly sell it so cheap?"
0:35:06 > 0:35:09But, actually, if you're making it this quickly...
0:35:09 > 0:35:12If we had more of these, a full table full,
0:35:12 > 0:35:15then we'd complete it in one hit.
0:35:17 > 0:35:18Cheap as they were,
0:35:18 > 0:35:22there are still many who could only dream of such sugary delights.
0:35:24 > 0:35:28Those in the direst need depended on charity, particularly at Christmas.
0:35:29 > 0:35:31And giving to workhouses and orphanages became
0:35:31 > 0:35:34a Victorian Christmas tradition in itself.
0:35:38 > 0:35:41Charitable donations funded Christmas trees,
0:35:41 > 0:35:43toys, and, above all, sweet treats.
0:35:45 > 0:35:49One orphanage in Bristol even set up a temporary sweet shop
0:35:49 > 0:35:52where each child was given a few pennies to spend.
0:35:54 > 0:35:58Sweets had become a crucial part of Christmas celebrations.
0:35:59 > 0:36:01But alongside their basic wares,
0:36:01 > 0:36:05our confectioners will still need to draw the crowds to their Victorian
0:36:05 > 0:36:08stall with a spectacular centrepiece.
0:36:09 > 0:36:12Hello, hello. How are our sugar pigs going?
0:36:12 > 0:36:13Ooh, cake.
0:36:13 > 0:36:16- More cakes.- Bit plain, isn't it?
0:36:16 > 0:36:19Well, it is at the moment. But let us bear in mind
0:36:19 > 0:36:22that you still may have a few wealthier customers
0:36:22 > 0:36:24whose palates you want to titivate.
0:36:24 > 0:36:27One of the really traditional
0:36:27 > 0:36:31British Christmas dishes was the stuffed boar's head.
0:36:31 > 0:36:34Queen Victoria used to have a boar's head on her table,
0:36:34 > 0:36:36her Christmas sideboard, every single year.
0:36:36 > 0:36:38Hers was a real boar.
0:36:38 > 0:36:41But for those looking for a more interesting twist,
0:36:41 > 0:36:45for those interestingly entrepreneurial Victorians
0:36:45 > 0:36:49looking for old customs to appropriate and make into new ones,
0:36:49 > 0:36:53Queen Victoria's chef proposed a slightly different idea.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56Your face is just getting better and better and better.
0:36:56 > 0:36:58Is that going to become a boar's head?
0:36:58 > 0:37:00- Oh, yes.- Oh, my God!
0:37:00 > 0:37:02LAUGHTER
0:37:05 > 0:37:08The recipe for a boar's head cake -
0:37:08 > 0:37:10an exact imitation of a real boar's head -
0:37:10 > 0:37:16comes from a book by Queen Victoria's chef, Francatelli.
0:37:16 > 0:37:19In medieval Britain, only the nobility were allowed to hunt
0:37:19 > 0:37:22wild boar, and the Christmas boar's head was presented
0:37:22 > 0:37:24with much ceremony.
0:37:25 > 0:37:28Now it was yet another ancient Christmas tradition
0:37:28 > 0:37:30that could be given a sweet spin.
0:37:32 > 0:37:36Our sweet-makers will have to use all their talents to recreate
0:37:36 > 0:37:37this Christmas spectacle.
0:37:41 > 0:37:42What are you starting with, Andy?
0:37:42 > 0:37:45- I'm going to make you some jelly first.- For the base?- Uh-huh.
0:37:47 > 0:37:51While Cynthia is using her sculpting skills to carve the cake...
0:37:53 > 0:37:55..Diana's chef training is put to use
0:37:55 > 0:37:58to cook up a chocolate glaze which will cover the head.
0:37:58 > 0:38:00Paul, do you want to come and look at this glaze?
0:38:00 > 0:38:03As long as it reaches coating consistency...
0:38:03 > 0:38:04Pop a little bit on there.
0:38:04 > 0:38:06..we're going to be all right, aren't we?
0:38:06 > 0:38:10It's a beautiful colour. That's it. It's a good consistency, look.
0:38:10 > 0:38:11Even hot.
0:38:13 > 0:38:16All the trimmings have to be made from scratch.
0:38:16 > 0:38:20Look at that! Gorgeous orange jelly, it smells amazing.
0:38:20 > 0:38:22Shall we have green or blue eyes, everyone?
0:38:22 > 0:38:25- One of each.- One of each. - One of each?
0:38:27 > 0:38:29Shall we try them?
0:38:31 > 0:38:33That is too scary. That's too scary, isn't it?
0:38:33 > 0:38:36I thought it was Christmas, not Halloween.
0:38:36 > 0:38:39They're including some Christmas staples...
0:38:39 > 0:38:41I'm just doing some candied orange peels
0:38:41 > 0:38:43which we can use for decoration.
0:38:45 > 0:38:47..and marzipan fruits.
0:38:50 > 0:38:54That's it. Perfect. That's it. Perfect. Beautiful.
0:38:54 > 0:38:56Look at the colour!
0:38:56 > 0:38:59Oh, my goodness. It's beautiful.
0:38:59 > 0:39:02- Any bubbles popped?- I have to remind myself this is not a real boar.
0:39:02 > 0:39:06It looks like a real, glazed, savoury boar's head now.
0:39:06 > 0:39:08- That's a good compromise.- Yeah.
0:39:11 > 0:39:13Quite a lot of piping work on them, isn't there?
0:39:13 > 0:39:15Sure is.
0:39:15 > 0:39:18- VOICEOVER:- Much to Cynthia's relief, by the middle of the 19th century,
0:39:18 > 0:39:21piping bags had been introduced to Britain.
0:39:22 > 0:39:24- I don't like the font.- Ooh!
0:39:28 > 0:39:31The finishing touch is to place the hatelet skewers.
0:39:31 > 0:39:34These ornate silver spears were traditionally used in meat,
0:39:34 > 0:39:38and held savoury delicacies like truffles and cockscombs.
0:39:39 > 0:39:42Now they hold sweet equivalents.
0:39:42 > 0:39:43That looks fantastic, doesn't it?
0:39:43 > 0:39:48- That looks brilliant.- Ooh, this is the special moment, isn't it?
0:39:48 > 0:39:49It is a moment, isn't it?
0:39:49 > 0:39:51I'm a bit emotional about this.
0:39:52 > 0:39:58A mere four hours from boring sponge to spectacular boar.
0:39:58 > 0:40:01Look at that!
0:40:01 > 0:40:03That's incredible.
0:40:03 > 0:40:07That's the most bonkers thing we've ever made.
0:40:07 > 0:40:11I never question what we can do but I didn't expect it to be that good.
0:40:22 > 0:40:24Oh, my God!
0:40:24 > 0:40:26Hi. He's handsome, isn't he?
0:40:26 > 0:40:29It's unbelievable.
0:40:29 > 0:40:30It's so realistic.
0:40:30 > 0:40:33- Is that what you expected? - No, no, not at all.
0:40:33 > 0:40:36It is so much better than anything I could have thought.
0:40:36 > 0:40:39- Aw!- You're just... - We're pleased you love it.
0:40:39 > 0:40:41We love it.
0:40:41 > 0:40:43Can you imagine having this on your Christmas table?
0:40:43 > 0:40:45ALL TALK AT ONCE
0:40:45 > 0:40:47I mean... I keep looking at it
0:40:47 > 0:40:49and seeing more and more details, as well.
0:40:49 > 0:40:52The candied orange peel and the little mushrooms
0:40:52 > 0:40:54and the holly in the ears. These are nougatine.
0:40:54 > 0:40:58Oh, my goodness! This is just so perfect.
0:40:58 > 0:41:05I want to give you all a huge hug. Group hug!
0:41:05 > 0:41:07- Happy Christmas. - Happy Christmas to you.
0:41:07 > 0:41:11# Wassail, wassail, all over the town
0:41:11 > 0:41:15# Our toast it is white and our ale it is brown
0:41:15 > 0:41:19# Our bowl it is made of the white maple tree
0:41:19 > 0:41:24# With a wassailing bowl we'll drink to thee... #
0:41:25 > 0:41:27At the Christmas fair,
0:41:27 > 0:41:30the boar's head has pride of place on the confectioners' stall.
0:41:33 > 0:41:36Their baskets are piled high with brightly coloured sweets,
0:41:36 > 0:41:37aimed at Christmas's new consumers...
0:41:38 > 0:41:41..the children.
0:41:41 > 0:41:42Hello. How are you?
0:41:42 > 0:41:46I have pink sugar mice, I have white sugar mice.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50Victorian childhood favourites
0:41:50 > 0:41:52have become enduring Christmas traditions.
0:41:54 > 0:41:56And sugar mice...
0:41:56 > 0:41:58Eight for a penny. There we go.
0:41:58 > 0:42:01- Thank you very much. - And there you are.
0:42:01 > 0:42:03- Enjoy. Happy Christmas. - Merry Christmas.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08Looking at the faces of the children looking into the baskets,
0:42:08 > 0:42:12you can tell they were shaking with excitement.
0:42:12 > 0:42:14They don't know which one to take. It's brilliant. Perfect.
0:42:14 > 0:42:18- Confectionery makes Christmas. - It does.- Sweet memories.
0:42:19 > 0:42:23The magical child-centred Victorian Christmas,
0:42:23 > 0:42:25which confectioners helped to dream up
0:42:25 > 0:42:27with its tree hung with sweets and
0:42:27 > 0:42:30stockings stuffed with treats is still with us today.
0:42:32 > 0:42:33Everything a penny.
0:42:48 > 0:42:51Our sweet-makers are entering a new era.
0:42:51 > 0:42:53And they're going to have to work harder than ever.
0:42:55 > 0:42:57Confectionery is now big business
0:42:57 > 0:43:00and there's fierce competition for the Christmas market.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08Welcome to the 1920s Christmas.
0:43:08 > 0:43:12In your workshop now you have things such as electric light,
0:43:12 > 0:43:13you've got lots of metalware.
0:43:13 > 0:43:16You've got new and exciting moulds and ingredients.
0:43:16 > 0:43:18In terms of confectionery and sweet-making,
0:43:18 > 0:43:23the big story is that now it's a really huge industry,
0:43:23 > 0:43:27so companies such as Rowntree's and Mackintosh's, Cadbury's and Terry's.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29And one of the really important things
0:43:29 > 0:43:33they're doing in terms of Christmas confectionery is they're producing
0:43:33 > 0:43:35more and more chocolate.
0:43:35 > 0:43:39For example, we have chocolate figurines.
0:43:39 > 0:43:40CHEERING
0:43:40 > 0:43:42Obviously, these are somewhat modern,
0:43:42 > 0:43:44but this is where they come from.
0:43:44 > 0:43:47- We love a bit of foiling.- One of the things I particularly wish you to be
0:43:47 > 0:43:49inspired by is a very innovative product
0:43:49 > 0:43:51which is being made by Terry's.
0:43:51 > 0:43:54Terry's is very well-known for the chocolate orange,
0:43:54 > 0:43:57but that's a little later - that's 1930s.
0:43:57 > 0:44:00Because before the chocolate orange, there was...
0:44:01 > 0:44:02..the chocolate apple.
0:44:02 > 0:44:05- No!- No way!
0:44:05 > 0:44:08Was it apple flavoured?
0:44:08 > 0:44:09No, it was just plain chocolate.
0:44:09 > 0:44:12Again, another reason the orange probably took off was because orange
0:44:12 > 0:44:15flavouring is a lot easier to replicate than apple flavouring.
0:44:15 > 0:44:20Also, orange has always had that association with sort of Christmas.
0:44:20 > 0:44:21Yes, indeed.
0:44:26 > 0:44:27Launched in 1926,
0:44:27 > 0:44:31the chocolate apple was just one of a frenzy of new products trying to
0:44:31 > 0:44:34capture the lucrative Christmas market.
0:44:39 > 0:44:41Big firms were pouring money into
0:44:41 > 0:44:46all sorts of new, shaped, flavoured and filled chocolates.
0:44:46 > 0:44:49By the end of the period, Cadbury's alone
0:44:49 > 0:44:52had 237 products on its price list.
0:44:56 > 0:44:59- Right, we'd better get cracking, then.- Right, pans of water?
0:44:59 > 0:45:02Yeah, you guys, bain maries, chopping chocolate.
0:45:02 > 0:45:03Really small, please.
0:45:03 > 0:45:06- Small as you can. - As small as we can.
0:45:06 > 0:45:07All right.
0:45:09 > 0:45:11Our sweet-makers are making their own versions
0:45:11 > 0:45:14of some of the most popular Christmas chocolates of the day
0:45:14 > 0:45:16to sell in their 1920s shop.
0:45:18 > 0:45:20Small confectioners would buy
0:45:20 > 0:45:22chocolate by the slab from wholesalers
0:45:22 > 0:45:24and melt it down to create their own products.
0:45:26 > 0:45:28OK, they're quite noisy now, aren't they?
0:45:32 > 0:45:34Can we have...
0:45:36 > 0:45:37Can we have less...
0:45:37 > 0:45:40You have bits of paper in your chocolate fondant.
0:45:40 > 0:45:41Oh! Right, OK.
0:45:41 > 0:45:45Professional chocolatiers Diana and Paul are in their element.
0:45:46 > 0:45:51This needs to melt for quite a while to get it really, really smooth.
0:45:51 > 0:45:54Don't let the water boil, though, Andy, please.
0:45:54 > 0:45:56- Don't let it boil.- Don't let it boil. Don't let it boil -
0:45:56 > 0:46:00- it will bake the chocolate, it'll go grainy and solid.- OK.
0:46:03 > 0:46:05What are you making?
0:46:05 > 0:46:09So, we've got sugar, water, a bit of glucose into a syrup.
0:46:09 > 0:46:12Pour it on to egg whites while whisking.
0:46:12 > 0:46:15Don't look at me like that. It's only two of your eggs.
0:46:15 > 0:46:18And it will volumise and create a cooked Italian meringue.
0:46:18 > 0:46:20We'll pipe that into each chocolate.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22- Like Walnut Whip. - Exactly like Walnut Whip.
0:46:26 > 0:46:29The Walnut Whip, or whipped cream walnut
0:46:29 > 0:46:33was first developed by a firm called Duncan's in 1910.
0:46:33 > 0:46:37In 1927, Rowntree's bought the firm and added an extra walnut.
0:46:39 > 0:46:41Using Paul's mixture,
0:46:41 > 0:46:45Diana and Andy are making a handmade version of this Christmas classic.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51You never eat a Walnut Whip the rest of the year but at Christmas time,
0:46:51 > 0:46:53it's like, "Where's me Walnut Whips?"
0:46:53 > 0:46:54Did you ever get mini selection packs
0:46:54 > 0:46:55with all the different stuff in?
0:46:55 > 0:46:57Yeah. My nanna used to get those for me.
0:46:57 > 0:46:59My nanna who lived up in Grimsby.
0:46:59 > 0:47:01Which bit did you save until the last?
0:47:01 > 0:47:04- Which was your favourite? - It used to be the Mars Bar one.
0:47:04 > 0:47:06- Oh, no.- I used to have a Mars. - The finger of fudge.
0:47:06 > 0:47:09In fact, I used to go into my sister's selection pack and pinch
0:47:09 > 0:47:12- her finger of fudge and put something in it I didn't like.- Oh!
0:47:16 > 0:47:19In the early '20s, Rowntree's launched
0:47:19 > 0:47:21their first Christmas selection box,
0:47:21 > 0:47:23containing all sorts of treats
0:47:23 > 0:47:25including sugared almonds and Walnut Whips.
0:47:30 > 0:47:35Such was their popularity that from 1929 to 1935,
0:47:35 > 0:47:39Rowntree's manufacture of fancy boxes increased twentyfold.
0:47:43 > 0:47:44Found some walnuts.
0:47:45 > 0:47:47CRACKING
0:47:47 > 0:47:51I say. Did you just crack that with your hands?
0:47:51 > 0:47:54- CRACKING - Whoa! Wow!
0:47:54 > 0:47:56The Wigan nut-squasher.
0:47:56 > 0:47:58Sounds like a wrestler!
0:47:59 > 0:48:03Novelty was key to capturing the valuable festive market,
0:48:03 > 0:48:06and confectioners drew on old Christmas traditions
0:48:06 > 0:48:08to create new ones.
0:48:10 > 0:48:13Where once a child might receive a coin in their stocking,
0:48:13 > 0:48:15now they could have chocolate money.
0:48:17 > 0:48:22Even ancient pagan customs were fair game for a sweet makeover.
0:48:22 > 0:48:24Yuletide logs.
0:48:25 > 0:48:28- Look at this!- I know.
0:48:28 > 0:48:29- It's clever.- It's a tree stump.
0:48:29 > 0:48:31Stump, yeah.
0:48:31 > 0:48:36First sold in fashionable Parisian patisseries in the 19th century,
0:48:36 > 0:48:40by the 1920s the bouche de Noel was Anglicised,
0:48:40 > 0:48:43becoming the Yule log that we still know today.
0:48:43 > 0:48:44They're really festive.
0:48:44 > 0:48:46- Thank you.- It's made everything feel more Christmassy.
0:48:48 > 0:48:51Ingredients associated with Christmas
0:48:51 > 0:48:53were also given a new lease of life.
0:48:53 > 0:48:55Pop an almond in each.
0:48:55 > 0:48:58- An almond?- Pop an almond in, to give it crunch and flavour.
0:48:58 > 0:48:59Ah, almond and pineapple.
0:48:59 > 0:49:03Where 200 years ago, nuts turned into sugar plums,
0:49:03 > 0:49:05now they were encased in chocolate.
0:49:06 > 0:49:09This is where it gets really quick, once you've made the shell,
0:49:09 > 0:49:11so your productivity goes up.
0:49:13 > 0:49:14By the end of the 1920s,
0:49:14 > 0:49:17confectioners had figured out how to flavour chocolate itself...
0:49:18 > 0:49:21..so the traditional Christmas orange
0:49:21 > 0:49:24could now be transformed into a sweet treat.
0:49:24 > 0:49:28Launched in 1932, and still popular today,
0:49:28 > 0:49:30it's said that at the height of their popularity
0:49:30 > 0:49:34one in ten Christmas stockings had a Terry's Chocolate Orange in it.
0:49:36 > 0:49:39Our sweet-makers are attempting an exotic alternative -
0:49:39 > 0:49:40the chocolate pineapple.
0:49:40 > 0:49:42Because, look, it's got... It's got gaps in it.
0:49:42 > 0:49:43It does, but that's fine.
0:49:43 > 0:49:46- The chocolate is going to be too thick to go through it.- Ah, I see.
0:49:46 > 0:49:48- Shall we flavour our chocolate first?- Yes, please.
0:49:48 > 0:49:52Stand that up. So pineapple, little bit of pineapple oil.
0:49:52 > 0:49:54How much? Say when.
0:49:54 > 0:49:56When. No, a bit more.
0:49:56 > 0:49:59There we go. Any flavour has to be oil-based.
0:49:59 > 0:50:00Yes.
0:50:02 > 0:50:04OK. So it takes a lot of chocolate.
0:50:04 > 0:50:06Mm-hm.
0:50:07 > 0:50:08Right to the top.
0:50:09 > 0:50:11Which is the bottom.
0:50:11 > 0:50:13So, now, we're going to tip it up completely,
0:50:13 > 0:50:15tip all the excess chocolate out.
0:50:15 > 0:50:18- And give it a little shake as you go.- OK.
0:50:22 > 0:50:26In the 1920s, chocolate production increased at an astonishing rate.
0:50:27 > 0:50:29Chuck them in upside down.
0:50:29 > 0:50:34Take your fork. Push on the leading edge and then tap it to the surface.
0:50:36 > 0:50:39Cadbury's alone tripled their chocolate sales
0:50:39 > 0:50:42from the early 1920s to the mid 1930s.
0:50:48 > 0:50:51And at Christmas, all the big confectionery firms
0:50:51 > 0:50:54competed to turn out as many attention-grabbing products
0:50:54 > 0:50:55as possible.
0:50:59 > 0:51:02- Oh!- Look!- How cool is that?
0:51:02 > 0:51:05Got a little raspberry, strawberries.
0:51:05 > 0:51:06It's like Christmas!
0:51:06 > 0:51:10- I know, so clever!- How beautiful is that?- They look great.
0:51:10 > 0:51:12They look fantastic.
0:51:12 > 0:51:14Right, pineapple time. Drum roll.
0:51:16 > 0:51:18OK, let's see if we can...
0:51:21 > 0:51:24..prise off the first two. Ready?
0:51:24 > 0:51:27- Ooh.- Ooh!- Ooh!
0:51:27 > 0:51:29- Give it a tap.- Ooh, that was good.
0:51:29 > 0:51:30- Ooh!- Ah.
0:51:32 > 0:51:33Got...
0:51:33 > 0:51:35Ohh!
0:51:35 > 0:51:36- Ah.- Oh.- No!
0:51:36 > 0:51:40- That's gone a bit...- Do you know what? We can repair everything.
0:51:41 > 0:51:43Ooh, by 'eck!
0:51:43 > 0:51:46I've never known a mould to be this...
0:51:46 > 0:51:47..this bonded together.
0:51:48 > 0:51:50- Well...- Ohh!
0:51:50 > 0:51:53That's why. It's not going to be the new chocolate orange, then, is it?
0:51:53 > 0:51:55It's not going to be the new chocolate orange, unfortunately.
0:51:55 > 0:51:58It just needs a bit more product development.
0:51:58 > 0:52:02Oh! Can you please peel off a nice big bit of foil, Cynthia?
0:52:02 > 0:52:04Yes, that, that we can do.
0:52:04 > 0:52:06What a shame.
0:52:06 > 0:52:07We'll have a green top, look.
0:52:09 > 0:52:10- Beautiful, isn't it? Look.- It is.
0:52:10 > 0:52:12Andy.
0:52:12 > 0:52:14I still think it looks like a hand grenade.
0:52:14 > 0:52:17It's a triumph of packaging over product.
0:52:17 > 0:52:19What do you think Christmas Santas are?!
0:52:19 > 0:52:21LAUGHTER
0:52:21 > 0:52:25In a crowded marketplace, to catch the eye of the Christmas shopper,
0:52:25 > 0:52:27a product had to really stand out.
0:52:29 > 0:52:32Even beautifully shaped chocolates were still brown,
0:52:32 > 0:52:33so they needed some sparkle.
0:52:35 > 0:52:39Wrapped in shiny foil and packaged in festive boxes,
0:52:39 > 0:52:41they were transformed into Christmas magic.
0:52:46 > 0:52:50And in 1936, Macintosh launched a new chocolate assortment
0:52:50 > 0:52:53which did all of this with absolute brilliance.
0:52:58 > 0:53:00Lovely.
0:53:00 > 0:53:01- Hello.- Hello.
0:53:01 > 0:53:03So, even though you're hard at work
0:53:03 > 0:53:05and this looks absolutely delightful,
0:53:05 > 0:53:09and incredibly festive, you have some stiff competition.
0:53:09 > 0:53:12- Oh.- You might recognise...
0:53:12 > 0:53:15- Macintosh's, it was Macintosh's. - It was, yeah.
0:53:15 > 0:53:20- And how big is that tin?- I know. - That's a lot of chocolates.
0:53:20 > 0:53:24A lot of effort has gone into the tin, has gone into the chocolates,
0:53:24 > 0:53:25so this is really the age...
0:53:27 > 0:53:29Do you know what I miss?
0:53:29 > 0:53:31- This.- I know.- It's the lining paper.
0:53:31 > 0:53:32And doing this as kids.
0:53:34 > 0:53:37It was just the fun, like a ritual.
0:53:37 > 0:53:39- Would you like one? - Oh, my favourite.
0:53:39 > 0:53:40The green triangle.
0:53:43 > 0:53:44This is eating my childhood memories.
0:53:44 > 0:53:47This is the original Quality Street assortment,
0:53:47 > 0:53:50so lots of them are the same but just these early drawings
0:53:50 > 0:53:55- I think are...so lovely. - Names, Harrogate toffee.
0:53:55 > 0:53:58- I know. - Almond toffee, vanilla toffee.
0:53:58 > 0:54:01But there's still the ones we know today - toffee penny, toffee finger.
0:54:01 > 0:54:05Now, I did wonder, because I always said that the purple one
0:54:05 > 0:54:07that has the hazelnut in used to be Brazil nut,
0:54:07 > 0:54:10because it was in a Brazil nut shape, the chocolate.
0:54:10 > 0:54:11And it does say there...
0:54:12 > 0:54:14..chocolate creme toffee Brazils.
0:54:14 > 0:54:16- Brazils.- So that has changed.
0:54:16 > 0:54:22Yes. So Lord Harold Macintosh had his eight-point plan.
0:54:22 > 0:54:26- Want to have a little look? - So, plan for Quality Street,
0:54:26 > 0:54:28shape and design of the tin, number one.
0:54:28 > 0:54:30Now, that's really telling, isn't it?
0:54:30 > 0:54:32Because normally we'd say product first
0:54:32 > 0:54:33and then think about how you're
0:54:33 > 0:54:36going to package it, but this was all about the packaging.
0:54:36 > 0:54:38All those colours and the glistening
0:54:38 > 0:54:41- and the light bouncing off them and the rustle.- The sound.
0:54:41 > 0:54:43The noise. It really does say Christmas.
0:54:45 > 0:54:47In a stroke of marketing genius,
0:54:47 > 0:54:51Macintosh packaged Quality Street with a nostalgic Victorian image...
0:54:54 > 0:54:57..selling customers the idea of a happy Christmas
0:54:57 > 0:54:58in a tin of chocolates.
0:55:06 > 0:55:08Our sweet-makers have taken their chocolate pineapple,
0:55:08 > 0:55:12Walnut Whips and Yule logs to be displayed in their sweet shop.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17I'm going to pop the pineapple right in the middle there.
0:55:19 > 0:55:22With mass production and clever marketing, confectioners had managed
0:55:22 > 0:55:26to inextricably link sweets and chocolates to the festive season.
0:55:27 > 0:55:31- Beautiful.- How's it looking?
0:55:31 > 0:55:32Looks fantastic.
0:55:32 > 0:55:34Are you proud of your handiwork?
0:55:34 > 0:55:36We are!
0:55:36 > 0:55:39Very impressive. So I must say, you guys are looking fantastic,
0:55:39 > 0:55:42given that you've been working for over 200 years.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44- Have you enjoyed it?- Loved it! - Absolutely!
0:55:44 > 0:55:47Is there anything you'd like to bring back that from now on you're
0:55:47 > 0:55:49going to make part of your own Christmas traditions at home?
0:55:49 > 0:55:51- Snapdragons.- Snapdragons.
0:55:51 > 0:55:53Best game ever!
0:55:53 > 0:55:55- Twelfth Cakes. - I loved the Twelfth Cakes, yes.
0:55:55 > 0:55:57Twelfth Cakes, yeah, definitely.
0:55:57 > 0:56:00- Twelfth Cake. - And the month's holiday.
0:56:00 > 0:56:02LAUGHTER
0:56:19 > 0:56:24In 1938, Mass Observation - a social survey of everyday life in Britain -
0:56:24 > 0:56:26recorded that on Christmas Eve
0:56:26 > 0:56:28some sweet shops stayed open until midnight
0:56:28 > 0:56:32so their customers could shop until the very last minute.
0:56:35 > 0:56:37Yes, thank you very much.
0:56:38 > 0:56:39Anything else for you?
0:56:40 > 0:56:43I like the way that Christmas has changed because in Georgian times
0:56:43 > 0:56:45it was very much aimed at adults
0:56:45 > 0:56:48and it's become much more child-friendly.
0:56:48 > 0:56:51Now, you know, I suppose it's a time for everyone.
0:56:51 > 0:56:52It's lovely.
0:56:52 > 0:56:54From the spectacle of the shop window,
0:56:54 > 0:56:58to treats for stockings, to today's bestsellers - for two centuries,
0:56:58 > 0:57:02confectioners have been shaping the way we celebrate Christmas.
0:57:02 > 0:57:04- Have a lovely Christmas, thank you very much.- All the best!
0:57:04 > 0:57:07I've been super surprised about how confectioners have
0:57:07 > 0:57:10moulded traditions, created traditions.
0:57:10 > 0:57:13I would not be doing my job today without that,
0:57:13 > 0:57:15and I wouldn't be generating other
0:57:15 > 0:57:18people's traditions by making my take
0:57:18 > 0:57:19on festive chocolates.
0:57:19 > 0:57:22And that one's... That's a penny, please,
0:57:22 > 0:57:25for the Yule log. Thank you very much.
0:57:28 > 0:57:31To this day, it's the arrival of festive sweet treats
0:57:31 > 0:57:34in the shops that lets us know that Christmas is coming.
0:57:37 > 0:57:41How influential they were in shaping the things that we still do now,
0:57:41 > 0:57:43honing their craft through the ages.
0:57:43 > 0:57:47I feel really privileged, you know, to not only do what I do now,
0:57:47 > 0:57:50but also to have discovered this.
0:57:50 > 0:57:51Beautiful. That is 10p,
0:57:51 > 0:57:54it's our most expensive item, but it is a one-off.
0:57:54 > 0:57:57It doesn't surprise me that confectioners of the past shaped
0:57:57 > 0:57:59Christmas, because I think that's what we do.
0:57:59 > 0:58:01We create a little bit of
0:58:01 > 0:58:05sweet magic and we make it accessible to everybody.
0:58:05 > 0:58:09- Happy Christmas!- Happy Christmas. - Careful in that snow.
0:58:10 > 0:58:12- Thank you.- Bye!
0:58:15 > 0:58:17CHEERING
0:58:17 > 0:58:20Christmas is a time of celebrations.
0:58:22 > 0:58:24ALL: Merry Christmas!
0:58:24 > 0:58:27And as we tuck into our festive sweet treats,
0:58:27 > 0:58:32let's raise a glass to confectioners everywhere, past and present.