0:00:02 > 0:00:05Sweets - they're our guilty pleasure.
0:00:07 > 0:00:12Today, British confectionery is a £6 billion industry.
0:00:12 > 0:00:14But where did it all begin?
0:00:16 > 0:00:20We've asked four modern confectioners to go back in time,
0:00:20 > 0:00:25to work their way through three eras that revolutionised their trade.
0:00:26 > 0:00:29From the birth of their profession four centuries ago,
0:00:29 > 0:00:33where they'll craft luxuries for Tudor aristocrats...
0:00:33 > 0:00:37- Oh!- It's cracking, Cyn. It's getting worse, look.
0:00:37 > 0:00:40..to Georgian entrepreneurs, storming the high street
0:00:40 > 0:00:43and tempting the fashionable middle classes.
0:00:43 > 0:00:46- Look, mould. Chocolate? - Jelly?- Both?
0:00:46 > 0:00:50And finally, they'll work on the production line of the 20th century
0:00:50 > 0:00:53factory, making affordable goodies for the masses.
0:00:53 > 0:00:57You're a cog in a wheel. You know, you're... I'm a chocolate dipper.
0:00:57 > 0:01:01Our 21st century confectioners will be learning to make the sweet treats
0:01:01 > 0:01:04of the past. They'll be using the ingredients,
0:01:04 > 0:01:07recipes and equipment of the time.
0:01:07 > 0:01:10It looks like a tapeworm. This is bum-clenching stuff.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13They'll experience first-hand the triumphs...
0:01:13 > 0:01:15CHEERING AND LAUGHTER
0:01:15 > 0:01:18..and the trials of their profession.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21- Oh, that's hot.- Hot, hot, hot!
0:01:21 > 0:01:24And they'll be creating sugary masterpieces,
0:01:24 > 0:01:29which haven't been tasted for hundreds of years.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- Oh, my God. - Mm.- That is amazing.
0:01:32 > 0:01:35But as well as making the treats of the past,
0:01:35 > 0:01:38our confectioners will be exploring the bittersweet story of sugar,
0:01:38 > 0:01:43an ingredient that transformed Britain, shaping our empire,
0:01:43 > 0:01:48bankrolling our cities, igniting our slave trade...
0:01:48 > 0:01:50The cruelty's just terrible.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53..and changing the way we eat forever.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56WHOOPING
0:01:56 > 0:01:59They've already experienced life as Tudor servants
0:01:59 > 0:02:03in a private house, working with an ingredient so precious,
0:02:03 > 0:02:06it was kept under lock and key.
0:02:06 > 0:02:09Now they've left their aristocratic masters behind
0:02:09 > 0:02:13to set up shop, as sugar hits the Georgian high street.
0:02:24 > 0:02:29It's 1770 and our confectioners, Cynthia, Paul, Andy and Diana,
0:02:29 > 0:02:32are in Bath, one of Britain's wealthiest cities,
0:02:32 > 0:02:36thanks to the money flooding in from the far corners of the empire.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43This week, our team will be running a confectionery shop.
0:02:43 > 0:02:47They're now businessmen and women and they'll be turning out sweet
0:02:47 > 0:02:49delicacies and desserts to tempt the palettes
0:02:49 > 0:02:52of the discerning Bath customers.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56An explosion in supply and demand from across the globe
0:02:56 > 0:02:59has made sugar the world's most important commodity.
0:02:59 > 0:03:02Profits from this lucrative trade
0:03:02 > 0:03:06have helped fuel a rapid expansion of Britain's cities...
0:03:06 > 0:03:07Oh, look!
0:03:07 > 0:03:11..and eager customers for the ambitious confectioner.
0:03:11 > 0:03:14I mean, I think maybe the expectation on the confectioners
0:03:14 > 0:03:17was higher, so I'm thinking we might be expected to produce
0:03:17 > 0:03:19a lot more variety of things.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22So, in that respect, it could be more challenging.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24That looks lovely.
0:03:26 > 0:03:28I expect that there's a little bit more refinement.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31I mean, just from our outfits. You know,
0:03:31 > 0:03:35it's gone from complete utility to, you know, a bit frivolous,
0:03:35 > 0:03:37so I expect to see that reflected in food.
0:03:37 > 0:03:41Unlike a modern sweet shop, Georgian confectioners were aimed at adults,
0:03:41 > 0:03:45not children, and sold everything, from biscuits and bonbons,
0:03:45 > 0:03:49to ice cream and jelly by the glass.
0:03:49 > 0:03:51- Ooh!- Look at those.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54- Ooh, yum!- It's like a little sweetie teashop.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- Gorgeous.- Wow, look.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00We have a counter. A lovely sugar loaf, yeah.
0:04:00 > 0:04:02- Does it smell?- It is, they've got chocolate in them.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04Yeah? Nice.
0:04:04 > 0:04:07- What are they like?- Mm. Mm... - Sugary?- Taste of childhood.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09Part patisserie, part cafe,
0:04:09 > 0:04:12the shops were popular meeting places
0:04:12 > 0:04:14for their fashionable customers.
0:04:14 > 0:04:16That smells of pineapple.
0:04:16 > 0:04:18Mind me skirt.
0:04:18 > 0:04:22Georgian confectioners offered a bespoke catering service
0:04:22 > 0:04:23for wealthy clients,
0:04:23 > 0:04:28so over the next four days, our team will not only stock their shop,
0:04:28 > 0:04:31but also prepare a decadent dessert course,
0:04:31 > 0:04:36using original recipes from 1770 to 1833.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38Time to explore.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- Oh, my God.- We have moulds, look.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- Ooh, there's another room. - Fantastic.- How beautiful's that?
0:04:43 > 0:04:45That's going to be amazing.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48This is too exciting. Everything's elaborate and delicate.
0:04:48 > 0:04:49- Andy.- What?
0:04:49 > 0:04:51- Twigs.- The whisk. The twigs are back.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- Mould. Chocolate? - Jelly?- Both?
0:04:56 > 0:05:00VOICEOVER: I'm Dr Annie Gray, a food historian,
0:05:00 > 0:05:02and together with social historian Emma Dabiri,
0:05:02 > 0:05:05I'll be helping our modern confectioners understand the world
0:05:05 > 0:05:07that they've entered.
0:05:09 > 0:05:11- Hello.- Hi, everybody.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14- Hello.- Hello.- Hello, and welcome to the Georgian period.
0:05:14 > 0:05:18Britain's overseas territories are rapidly expanding.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21The arts are absolutely flourishing
0:05:21 > 0:05:25and there's a huge thirst for creativity and innovation.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28No more so than in the world of confectionery.
0:05:28 > 0:05:29- Hooray.- Brilliant.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32This is my favourite era in British history, full stop.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35This is where you start to see the birth of British cuisine
0:05:35 > 0:05:38for the first time, but vying with high-end French cuisine.
0:05:38 > 0:05:42You are magicians, you are not just cooks.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45- Well, we know that...- We do, yeah. - SHE LAUGHS
0:05:45 > 0:05:47Your clientele is also changing.
0:05:47 > 0:05:52Sugar is still a luxury product, but more people have access to it.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54There's a new and emerging middle class,
0:05:54 > 0:05:57who are making their way through trade and industry.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59In terms of getting to work now,
0:05:59 > 0:06:02your first task will be to make ice cream. GASPS
0:06:02 > 0:06:05Now, you've got this kitchen, which is your cold kitchen.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08Next door, you've got a hot kitchen for making the basic preparations.
0:06:08 > 0:06:13However, there's no way you even can consider making ice cream
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- without one fundamental ingredient - ice.- Ice.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24Without the modern convenience of a freezer, the cost of obtaining
0:06:24 > 0:06:27and storing ice made ice cream an expensive luxury.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33- Ooh, hello.- Hi!
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- I've got a little treat for you guys.- Wow, what's this?
0:06:37 > 0:06:40- Do you want to have a little peek inside?- Yeah.- Yeah, sure.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- Oh, wow!- That's a big block of ice.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47- So, along with these tortuous-looking implements...- OK.
0:06:47 > 0:06:48- ..and some gloves...- Ladies?
0:06:48 > 0:06:51..this is what you will be working with.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53- Excellent.- Pass them round. - Oh, wow.- There you go.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56Transported from the lochs of Scotland,
0:06:56 > 0:06:58or as far away as America,
0:06:58 > 0:07:02huge slabs of ice were stored in heavily-insulated ice houses,
0:07:02 > 0:07:05which sometimes extended underground.
0:07:08 > 0:07:09Wrapped in straw,
0:07:09 > 0:07:12ice could be stored for several months before being delivered
0:07:12 > 0:07:17by horse and cart to customers like our confectioners.
0:07:17 > 0:07:18OK.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22Up we go. How small do we need to take it, do you think?
0:07:22 > 0:07:24- What are we going to do with it? - We've got to pack it around buckets
0:07:24 > 0:07:26and things, haven't we?
0:07:28 > 0:07:30- EMMA:- To freeze their ice cream,
0:07:30 > 0:07:32the confectioners will need to surround their moulds
0:07:32 > 0:07:34and containers with chipped ice.
0:07:34 > 0:07:36Let's have a go.
0:07:36 > 0:07:38- That's fun. - What do you reckon? One hit?
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- One hit, go on. One hit wonder. - One hit wonder.
0:07:40 > 0:07:42- No.- Ah, show off.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46- Oh!- Oh, nice.- Oh, that looks lovely.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48LAUGHTER
0:07:51 > 0:07:52Ooh, it's nice, isn't it?
0:07:54 > 0:07:56- Very nice. - LAUGHTER
0:07:57 > 0:08:00Goodness me, no wonder you lot are not deemed useful to society.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- Oh, sorry.- Look at the floor!
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- I know.- Did it not occur to you to put it in a sack
0:08:05 > 0:08:07and hit it in a sack so that you didn't lose any?
0:08:07 > 0:08:10Er, I think someone said that, didn't they?
0:08:10 > 0:08:12Here is this week's culinary bible.
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- Yay!- Ooh!- And you have in here your...
0:08:16 > 0:08:19way to ice all sorts of liquid compositions.
0:08:19 > 0:08:21You're going to be making cream ices,
0:08:21 > 0:08:25so what we would today call ice cream, and also water ices,
0:08:25 > 0:08:26today what we'd call sorbet.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30And you are going to be making some of my favourite flavours.
0:08:30 > 0:08:31- Raspberry ripple!- No.
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- Mint choc chip?- Chocolate?
0:08:33 > 0:08:35No, cheese.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- Really?- Cheese?!
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- No!- Cream cheesy?
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- Chocolate and cheese.- You will be making Parmesan cream ice...- Oh.
0:08:43 > 0:08:47..chocolate water ice and also a plain lemon water ice,
0:08:47 > 0:08:49- which you can colour and use to mould.- Oh, lovely.
0:08:49 > 0:08:52You are going to be making the latest, greatest craze.
0:08:52 > 0:08:55Imagine if you've never tasted ice cream before,
0:08:55 > 0:08:57something cold, what it must've been like,
0:08:57 > 0:09:01and this is the new thing that's sweeping not just the elite,
0:09:01 > 0:09:03who had it for about 100 years,
0:09:03 > 0:09:05but sweeping through the middle classes like a storm.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10They're following recipes from a 1790 book,
0:09:10 > 0:09:14The Complete Confectioner, by Frederick Nutt.
0:09:14 > 0:09:18While Cynthia and Andy continue to break up the frozen block,
0:09:18 > 0:09:2121st century chocolatiers Paul and Diana
0:09:21 > 0:09:23are making a start on the ices.
0:09:25 > 0:09:27I'm lucky. I've got my twig whisk.
0:09:27 > 0:09:29- Ooh!- Which, erm...
0:09:29 > 0:09:31actually feels much sturdier than the Tudor whisk.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35I was going to say, the other one was a bit flimsy.
0:09:35 > 0:09:36This is good, actually.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39So this is like a traditional ice cream we'd make now, isn't it?
0:09:39 > 0:09:41Eggs, cream, sugar,
0:09:41 > 0:09:45- but Parmesan, which was seen to be modern.- Yeah.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48Absolutely, and in fact, what strikes me is both of these recipes
0:09:48 > 0:09:50are considered to be sort of modern,
0:09:50 > 0:09:52you know, amazing new tweaks on things, aren't they?
0:09:52 > 0:09:54I mean, chocolate sorbet,
0:09:54 > 0:09:56- you're seeing it in all of the top restaurants now.- Dairy free...
0:09:56 > 0:10:00Exactly. And the Parmesan ice cream, you know, very Heston, isn't it?
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- Very.- Like you say, it's been done before, and then some.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10What was new to the Georgian period was a plentiful supply of sugar.
0:10:11 > 0:10:14Thanks to the booming plantations of the Caribbean,
0:10:14 > 0:10:16between 1700 and 1800,
0:10:16 > 0:10:20sugar imports to Britain increased tenfold...
0:10:20 > 0:10:22So, I need a pint of water into here.
0:10:23 > 0:10:26..and average annual consumption rose from the equivalent of three
0:10:26 > 0:10:30modern bags of sugar to nearly 11 bags per head.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- Oh.- Mm.- It's very intense.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36This abundance meant that every social class
0:10:36 > 0:10:41could now have sugar in their tea - a previously unattainable luxury -
0:10:41 > 0:10:45while those that could afford it flocked to high-end confectioners.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48The most fashionable shop of the day
0:10:48 > 0:10:50was Domenico Negri's Pot and Pineapple
0:10:50 > 0:10:52in London's Berkeley Square.
0:10:55 > 0:10:57I have here a bill from Negri's shop.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00There are all sorts of things on it, from apricots,
0:11:00 > 0:11:02which he calls "apricocks",
0:11:02 > 0:11:05through to nonpareil, which are essentially comfits,
0:11:05 > 0:11:10and along with all of these things, fruit, cakes, there are also ices.
0:11:10 > 0:11:11There are plain ices.
0:11:11 > 0:11:13Two shillings each.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16And cedrati ices, six shillings for four of them.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19That's an enormous amount of money.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21The plain ice at two shillings
0:11:21 > 0:11:25would've been just under most people's working daily wage.
0:11:27 > 0:11:29We've got some saffron, we've got some spinach,
0:11:29 > 0:11:31so we can make some chlorophyll.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33I'll mash up a few cochineals.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38Look at that. Beautifully red already.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- I love that.- It's like I've just hit somebody over the head, isn't it?
0:11:41 > 0:11:42- Oh!- I know.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46Our confectioners are using many of the same natural dyes and flavours
0:11:46 > 0:11:48that they did in the Tudor kitchen,
0:11:48 > 0:11:51as synthetic versions are yet to be invented.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55Oh, there's nothing nicer than a freshly grated lemon.
0:11:55 > 0:11:57I like the word "rasp" rather than "grate".
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- Rrrasp!- Rasp my lemon.- You have to roll your tongue when you say it,
0:12:01 > 0:12:02- though.- I can't.- Rrrasp.
0:12:02 > 0:12:05- I don't have a rolly tongue. - Oh. Can you growl?
0:12:05 > 0:12:07Rrr!
0:12:07 > 0:12:09- No. - LAUGHTER
0:12:17 > 0:12:21Our confectioners are catering for a whole new type of customer.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25As Britain's cities grew, so too did the urban class of professionals -
0:12:25 > 0:12:29lawyers, doctors, merchants and high-end tradesmen.
0:12:31 > 0:12:33And for these wealthy and aspiring Georgians,
0:12:33 > 0:12:35spending a season in Bath
0:12:35 > 0:12:38was an essential part of the social calendar.
0:12:40 > 0:12:43Up here on the tower of Bath's famous abbey,
0:12:43 > 0:12:45I have a bird's-eye view of the city.
0:12:45 > 0:12:48Down there, we can glimpse the Roman bath,
0:12:48 > 0:12:52where crowds flock then, as now, to take the spa water.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55After that, it might be a ball in the assembly rooms,
0:12:55 > 0:12:56a lecture in the Guildhall,
0:12:56 > 0:13:00or a fabulous dinner at one of Bath's beautiful Crescent houses.
0:13:02 > 0:13:06The demands of Bath's wealthy residents and visitors offered
0:13:06 > 0:13:08a new opportunity for confectioners.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11Previously tied to their aristocratic masters,
0:13:11 > 0:13:13they could now open their own shop
0:13:13 > 0:13:16and capitalise on this lucrative market.
0:13:18 > 0:13:21This is a map of Georgian Bath's city centre
0:13:21 > 0:13:23and we've marked up all of the confectionery shops
0:13:23 > 0:13:25that would've been here.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28There's 20 in total, which is quite a remarkable number.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30Here on Milsom Street alone,
0:13:30 > 0:13:32there were five, and the most famous of these
0:13:32 > 0:13:35was Molland's, which was located at number 2.
0:13:39 > 0:13:42Jane Austen immortalised Molland's in her novel Persuasion,
0:13:42 > 0:13:45when she made her heroine, Miss Elliot,
0:13:45 > 0:13:47take shelter in there from the rain.
0:13:51 > 0:13:53Molland's has long since disappeared,
0:13:53 > 0:13:57but one contemporary referred to it as a gourmet temple,
0:13:57 > 0:13:58and another noted
0:13:58 > 0:14:02that Bath's confectionery shops were as genteel as in London.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- I have here some trade cards from your competitors.- OK.- Er...
0:14:09 > 0:14:12- You have, er...- We have some?
0:14:12 > 0:14:14You do. You can see you've got Mr Trinder.
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- Now, he has opened a pop-up shop just for the season.- Has he now?
0:14:18 > 0:14:19So, very modern.
0:14:19 > 0:14:24- Wow!- And you can see that he serves "the nobility, gentry and others."
0:14:24 > 0:14:25LAUGHTER
0:14:25 > 0:14:28- Who is "others"?- Well, those who are not the nobility and the gentry.
0:14:28 > 0:14:29The middle classes.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32You've got William Fortt, the successor to Mr J Tully,
0:14:32 > 0:14:35he is a cook, pastry cook and confectioner on Milsom Street,
0:14:35 > 0:14:39here in Bath, advertising soups, ices and made dishes,
0:14:39 > 0:14:41so you don't need to worry about the soups and made dishes,
0:14:41 > 0:14:43- but clearly...- The ices.- ..the ices.
0:14:43 > 0:14:48Bath is full of people like this and they are all competing for the same
0:14:48 > 0:14:50business, so you've got to be a cut above them.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55Ice cream was so lucrative that when Frederick Nutt announced he was
0:14:55 > 0:14:57publishing a book of ice cream recipes,
0:14:57 > 0:14:59desperate London confectioners
0:14:59 > 0:15:03offered him the equivalent of £100,000 in today's money
0:15:03 > 0:15:05not to reveal their trade secrets.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13The confectioners' sorbet and ice cream mixes are ready to be frozen.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18Andy's using a Georgian trick of adding salt to their crushed ice
0:15:18 > 0:15:19to lower its temperature.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22So, how much salt have you had to put in?
0:15:22 > 0:15:23Two to three handfuls?
0:15:23 > 0:15:27If you've got too much, it's going to melt really, really quickly.
0:15:27 > 0:15:28Shall we put some of this in here?
0:15:28 > 0:15:30- We're up to the stage...- Can you give me a hand?- OK.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32So, colour these ones...
0:15:32 > 0:15:34They're using a sorbetiere,
0:15:34 > 0:15:37the Georgian equivalent of an ice cream maker,
0:15:37 > 0:15:41which is surrounded by the crushed ice and salt mixture to freeze.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45LAUGHTER
0:15:45 > 0:15:47We've got a business to run. This ice cream needs making.
0:15:47 > 0:15:49Quite right.
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- How are you looking? - It's...- Is it going?
0:15:55 > 0:16:00After just 20 minutes, ice crystals are starting to form.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03- Ooh...- Ooh, it is. It is, look. Can you see?
0:16:03 > 0:16:05Just round the edge, at the top.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07- Ours is going already. - It's freezing, yeah.
0:16:07 > 0:16:11- Oh, you want to come and look now. - Oh, my gosh! It actually is.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14Look. Is it freezing right at the bottom where the salt and ice is?
0:16:14 > 0:16:17- Nothing seems to be happening at all.- Right in the bottom?- Yeah.
0:16:17 > 0:16:18It is, there.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- Just the right amount of salt. - It is. It is icing up.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24Frozen solid.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27The syrup must now be stirred regularly as it thickens.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30You know the ice cream makers you buy now? You can put them
0:16:30 > 0:16:33in the freezer, chill them, put your mix in and you just turn it.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- Yeah.- The ones without a melter?
0:16:35 > 0:16:37That is so slow compared to how quickly...
0:16:37 > 0:16:39- Absolutely. - We've gone backwards a bit.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41- Up we come. - HE STRAINS
0:16:41 > 0:16:43Right.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46I think we're ready to mould.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- I think so, too.- But not before we've finished this off.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51How's it going?
0:16:51 > 0:16:54- Ooh...- Really well.- Lovely. Come and look, come and look.
0:16:54 > 0:16:55It's exciting.
0:16:55 > 0:16:59VOICEOVER: Just how cold have they made their sorbetiere?
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- Now, a modern freezer is, what? Minus 18?- Yeah.
0:17:03 > 0:17:07- So...- It should only be about minus three, shouldn't it?
0:17:07 > 0:17:09Two, minus four...
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- Blimey.- ..seven, minus nine.
0:17:12 > 0:17:14- Minus ten.- I'm amazed.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18What did we say? Minus three, we thought...?
0:17:18 > 0:17:20- Yeah.- Minus 12.- Minus 12?
0:17:20 > 0:17:23- Wow!- Just the right amount of salt, obviously.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25- Awesome.- Oh, don't break it up too much.
0:17:25 > 0:17:30Ice cream and sorbets could be served straight into glasses,
0:17:30 > 0:17:32but moulded ices were very popular.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35Oops. I just put my pink spoon in there.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39Pewter moulds came in all sorts of sizes and inventive shapes,
0:17:39 > 0:17:42from tall bombes, to fruit and vegetables.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46I think you feel the pressure, cos it's like, oh, my God,
0:17:46 > 0:17:49we've to get these in the moulds and get them in the freezer before they...
0:17:49 > 0:17:51- Start to thaw.- Before they start to go, yeah.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55Of course, there is no electric freezer,
0:17:55 > 0:17:57but there is the Georgian equivalent,
0:17:57 > 0:18:00known as an ice chest, or ice cave,
0:18:00 > 0:18:05a metal-lined wooden box filled with yet more ice and salt.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08It is slight mild panic and worry now, hoping that it works.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- It is, yeah. It is.- You've got to be positive, it will work.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14That was quite stressful, actually.
0:18:27 > 0:18:29That would be nice, wouldn't it? The big oval one?
0:18:29 > 0:18:32I don't know if we've got enough to cook from one of those.
0:18:32 > 0:18:34Right, where are...? Toffee dip.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36Which is the hot water?
0:18:37 > 0:18:40Are you going to roll the edge, as well?
0:18:40 > 0:18:43- Oh, yeah, it's loose.- Is it? - Yeah. The bottom is loose.
0:18:43 > 0:18:47After three hours in the ice chest, it's the moment of truth.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- OK, so then... - Take the top off.- Yeah.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53Ooh, we lost a little bit.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56I don't think that's frozen enough.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- It's not, is it?- It's oozing. - It's a little bit soft.
0:18:58 > 0:19:00It's not frozen enough, I don't think.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03- That is so impressive. - I'd pop that one straight back.
0:19:03 > 0:19:05Shall we get another small one?
0:19:05 > 0:19:06Let's get this little one out.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- Look at those!- Oh, look! - Oh, my goodness...
0:19:09 > 0:19:13They work beautifully, don't they?
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- ALL:- Ooh...
0:19:19 > 0:19:21- That's the...- Ooh, it's coming out! - It's coming!
0:19:26 > 0:19:27- That's it.- Wow!
0:19:27 > 0:19:29Wow!
0:19:29 > 0:19:31Do we get a try?
0:19:31 > 0:19:35Beautiful ices will be included in their final dessert course
0:19:35 > 0:19:39in three days' time, so they need to test the quality of the merchandise,
0:19:39 > 0:19:41starting with the chocolate sorbet.
0:19:41 > 0:19:43Oh, that's lush.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45- Mmm!- That's really, really nice.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47- How's the chocolate?- Mm!
0:19:47 > 0:19:49The chocolate is amazing.
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- Oh, it's very strong, isn't it? - It's so clean.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55- That's so refreshing.- Mm.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58- Mm.- Shall we leave some for Annie? - No.- Not a...- No.
0:19:58 > 0:20:00What is this?
0:20:00 > 0:20:02- Oh, wow.- What is this?
0:20:02 > 0:20:07I bring you glasses so that you can serve the ices like tasteful
0:20:07 > 0:20:10- and genteel Georgians.- We can. - And you are eating it.
0:20:10 > 0:20:12Oh, queen of cheese.
0:20:12 > 0:20:17VOICEOVER: But will the rather more ambitious Parmesan ice cream be as delicious?
0:20:17 > 0:20:20Those ice crystals are small, aren't they?
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- That is so weird.- Mm.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25That is so lovely. At the end of a meal.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27- It's like cheesecake. - With a little bit of pear.
0:20:27 > 0:20:29- Ooh.- Or quince.- All gone back in.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33Yes, you definitely need something sweet and tart with it.
0:20:33 > 0:20:34That is so good.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37I am really, actually, bowled over by that.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44- EMMA:- Confectioners offering the very latest in exotic tastes
0:20:44 > 0:20:47and flavours drew in a clientele with money to burn,
0:20:47 > 0:20:50and nowhere more so than in Bath,
0:20:50 > 0:20:52whose Georgian architecture is testament
0:20:52 > 0:20:55to its rapid expansion during this period,
0:20:55 > 0:21:01from small town to one of the country's wealthiest cities.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03But much of the money that funded this growth
0:21:03 > 0:21:06came from those who had profited handsomely from the trade
0:21:06 > 0:21:09in both sugar and slaves.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29Thousands of miles from Bath's elegant crescents,
0:21:29 > 0:21:32Barbados might seem like a world away,
0:21:32 > 0:21:35but it's all part of the same story - sugar.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39Barbados had been growing sugar for export from the 1640s.
0:21:39 > 0:21:41By the end of the 18th century,
0:21:41 > 0:21:45they had transported almost half a million Africans here,
0:21:45 > 0:21:47to provide labour for the British plantations.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53By the 18th century,
0:21:53 > 0:21:56sugar cane covered Britain's Caribbean colonies.
0:21:56 > 0:21:59Both the plantations and the slave trade were now run
0:21:59 > 0:22:01on an industrial scale...
0:22:04 > 0:22:07..with one aim - to extract as much profit as possible
0:22:07 > 0:22:10from the product they called white gold.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19It's easy to imagine that it was only one or two fabulously wealthy
0:22:19 > 0:22:22individuals and their henchmen that were involved in sugar
0:22:22 > 0:22:24and slavery out here in the Caribbean.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27However, this couldn't be further from the truth.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30Slavery was deeply embedded throughout British society
0:22:30 > 0:22:33during the 18th-century. In Bath alone,
0:22:33 > 0:22:38there were over 100 individuals who owned slaves in the Caribbean.
0:22:38 > 0:22:41But it wasn't just plantation owners getting rich.
0:22:41 > 0:22:45The sugar trade was now a cornerstone of the British economy,
0:22:45 > 0:22:48from dock workers, customs officers, shipbuilders,
0:22:48 > 0:22:50bankers and insurance agents,
0:22:50 > 0:22:54to the craftsmen exporting furniture and tapestries to the Caribbean -
0:22:54 > 0:22:57all were profiting from the labour of slaves.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04St Nicholas Abbey, with its lavish house,
0:23:04 > 0:23:09was one of the largest sugar plantations on Barbados.
0:23:09 > 0:23:11- Hiya.- Good to see you.
0:23:11 > 0:23:12Thanks.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19Professor Pedro Welch is an expert on the lives of the slaves and their
0:23:19 > 0:23:21plantation-owning masters.
0:23:21 > 0:23:23Oh, how opulent!
0:23:23 > 0:23:27So, looking around me, this furniture looks very familiar to me,
0:23:27 > 0:23:30as very kind of typically English.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32Absolutely. Some of the furniture,
0:23:32 > 0:23:34in fact all of the furniture, would be imported from England.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37I mean, what's the point of having all that wealth unless you can be
0:23:37 > 0:23:41ostentatious with it? These were lords of all that they surveyed.
0:23:41 > 0:23:44The plantation was at the apex of the society,
0:23:44 > 0:23:46and the slaves were at the bottom.
0:23:50 > 0:23:53Outside the big house, life was very different.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57I don't know if you've ever seen our slave lists,
0:23:57 > 0:23:59like this one that I have here, from this plantation.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02So, these are the people that actually would've lived here,
0:24:02 > 0:24:04- where we are?- Absolutely.
0:24:04 > 0:24:08The lists show the name and occupation of each slave.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11It also includes their age and where they were born.
0:24:14 > 0:24:15- If you look at this...- Sorry,
0:24:15 > 0:24:19I'm just glancing further down this and I'm seeing one, two,
0:24:19 > 0:24:21- three-year-olds?- Yes.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24The planters have long since recognised the importance
0:24:24 > 0:24:26of reproducing the slave population.
0:24:26 > 0:24:30- Mm-hm?- So they begin to offer incentives to women
0:24:30 > 0:24:32for producing babies.
0:24:32 > 0:24:35- Oh, wow.- So, if you produce a slave,
0:24:35 > 0:24:37you're given certain rewards,
0:24:37 > 0:24:39you were given additional rations, or whatever.
0:24:39 > 0:24:42And if you produced as many as, I think six or seven,
0:24:42 > 0:24:44- then you were set free. - Really?- Yes.
0:24:44 > 0:24:48But your freedom is then contingent
0:24:48 > 0:24:54on you producing more children that you're condemning to slavery.
0:24:54 > 0:24:55That is so perverse.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58The system is diabolical.
0:25:00 > 0:25:03You just hear kind of references to the slaves,
0:25:03 > 0:25:07but they're often kind of, like, not humanised,
0:25:07 > 0:25:11so to just see their names and their ages and their occupations,
0:25:11 > 0:25:17and to know that they were in this space that we're sitting in now,
0:25:17 > 0:25:21but in very, very different circumstances, it's just very...
0:25:21 > 0:25:23almost overwhelming to me.
0:25:23 > 0:25:28Well, I can imagine how you feel.
0:25:28 > 0:25:31In my case, as an Afro-Barbadian,
0:25:31 > 0:25:35I've managed to trace my ancestry back to an enslaved man.
0:25:35 > 0:25:39- Oh...- And an enslaved woman,
0:25:39 > 0:25:43so what you feel when you see this is incredibly...
0:25:43 > 0:25:44emotional.
0:25:49 > 0:25:51It was a barbaric system,
0:25:51 > 0:25:54but one heavily defended by the powerful sugar lobby.
0:25:55 > 0:25:58They stoked white fears of murderous slave revolts
0:25:58 > 0:26:02to justify the status quo,
0:26:02 > 0:26:05and warned of a drastic increase in the price of sugar
0:26:05 > 0:26:07should slavery be abolished.
0:26:15 > 0:26:18As independent shopkeepers needing to make a profit,
0:26:18 > 0:26:21most Georgian confectioners preferred not to dwell
0:26:21 > 0:26:23on the morality of their sugar source.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28Instead, they focused on developing tempting new products
0:26:28 > 0:26:30to draw in customers.
0:26:31 > 0:26:34- Distant relative.- It's me, isn't it? - With no beard.- I love the hair.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37The Italian confectioner William Jarrin
0:26:37 > 0:26:38was an invaluable guide
0:26:38 > 0:26:41for those wishing to add variety to their range of goods.
0:26:41 > 0:26:43Right, let's see what he was doing, then.
0:26:43 > 0:26:47- What have we got?- This page here is degrees of boiling the sugar.
0:26:47 > 0:26:49With no thermometer.
0:26:49 > 0:26:52He's describing one, two, three, four, five, six,
0:26:52 > 0:26:54seven stages. Seven stages of boil.
0:26:54 > 0:26:58"Thread, the pearl, the blow, the feather,
0:26:58 > 0:27:00"the crack." And the last one is caramel.
0:27:04 > 0:27:06By the end of the 18th-century,
0:27:06 > 0:27:10around 95% of shopkeepers could read.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13Books like Jarrin's not only introduced new recipes,
0:27:13 > 0:27:15but encouraged confectioners to experiment.
0:27:18 > 0:27:20Going to put this on the heat.
0:27:20 > 0:27:24It's an approach that appeals to Andy, who trained as a chemist.
0:27:24 > 0:27:27Having looked at Jarrin's book over a nice cup of tea, erm,
0:27:27 > 0:27:30it's very interesting to find out how he stands,
0:27:30 > 0:27:34for chemistry and analytical reasoning behind what they're doing.
0:27:34 > 0:27:37He's trying out the different stages of sugar boiling,
0:27:37 > 0:27:41which enabled confectioners to make a variety of sweets.
0:27:41 > 0:27:46There were no sugar thermometers, so each stage must be judged by eye,
0:27:46 > 0:27:48including the great blow.
0:27:52 > 0:27:54HE LAUGHS
0:27:54 > 0:27:56If the confectioner can blow small bubbles,
0:27:56 > 0:28:00the syrup is ready to make soft sweets, like fudge and fondant.
0:28:05 > 0:28:08Hard-boiled sweets require sugar at a higher temperature,
0:28:08 > 0:28:11and the addition of a crucial ingredient.
0:28:12 > 0:28:15We need to add five or six drops of lemon juice.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17By adding this, it stops the sugar recrystallizing,
0:28:17 > 0:28:20it's actually called doctoring the syrup.
0:28:22 > 0:28:24To test if the syrup is ready,
0:28:24 > 0:28:27the confectioner must plunge his hand into boiling sugar.
0:28:29 > 0:28:32Cold water gives you a barrier for about a second,
0:28:32 > 0:28:34so if you're quick enough, you don't feel it!
0:28:41 > 0:28:44- LOUD CRACK - Well, that's now at the crack.
0:28:47 > 0:28:50So, as soon as it hits that slab, it will start cooling down.
0:28:53 > 0:28:55We've got a nice, clear, hard candy.
0:28:56 > 0:28:59To the uneducated, alchemy, but if you know what you're doing,
0:28:59 > 0:29:01definitely science.
0:29:01 > 0:29:03But we can make it look like a black art if you want!
0:29:08 > 0:29:10It wasn't just experimentation
0:29:10 > 0:29:14that determined what went in the Georgian confectioner's window.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18The fickle forces of fashion were just as influential.
0:29:18 > 0:29:20It's day two and our team are boiling sugar
0:29:20 > 0:29:23to the crack to make Jarrin's recipe for bonbons,
0:29:23 > 0:29:27French boiled sweets that were all the rage.
0:29:27 > 0:29:30What are we doing next? We need to grease our moulds.
0:29:30 > 0:29:31- Bonbons. Yes.- Bon-bon-bonbons.
0:29:31 > 0:29:34- Shall we get some almond-shaped bonbons?- Yes. Ladies, have you got
0:29:34 > 0:29:36delicate fingers to grease the moulds, please?
0:29:39 > 0:29:40- Do they have to get...?- Very.
0:29:40 > 0:29:43- Very oily.- They're not pooling in the bottom.
0:29:43 > 0:29:46This one just falls off the trivet, so...
0:29:46 > 0:29:47So what do you want in this one, Andy?
0:29:47 > 0:29:50- Whatever you want.- Coffee? - Can you sit that in there?
0:29:50 > 0:29:52- Coffee in this one?- Yeah. - This is, erm, vanilla.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55Oh, that colour's gorgeous.
0:29:55 > 0:29:57If they followed Jarrin to the letter,
0:29:57 > 0:30:01the addition of colour and flavour should make jars of sweets
0:30:01 > 0:30:04that glisten like jewels in the shop window.
0:30:04 > 0:30:08- Sorry...- Do you think it's because of some of the colour?
0:30:08 > 0:30:13Andy, are you all right to do that side so I can work on this?
0:30:13 > 0:30:16- It is crystallising. - It's crystallising very quickly.
0:30:16 > 0:30:18- I think it's from the colours we've put in.- Yeah, it's gone.
0:30:18 > 0:30:20- Just keep going. - What else can we do with it?
0:30:20 > 0:30:23- Just keep putting it in.- It's gone. - Turn it out onto the slab.
0:30:23 > 0:30:28- Yeah, OK.- This one's done the same, look, completely granulated.
0:30:28 > 0:30:32- Both of them.- You know what we didn't put in? Any lemon juice.
0:30:32 > 0:30:35- Lemon juice!- There you go. - That's why it's gone.
0:30:35 > 0:30:37That's why it's gone.
0:30:37 > 0:30:39The batch is ruined.
0:30:39 > 0:30:42For small shopkeepers needing to maximise their yield,
0:30:42 > 0:30:45Georgian confectioners simply couldn't afford
0:30:45 > 0:30:47to make mistakes like this.
0:30:47 > 0:30:49- How does it taste?- Sugar.
0:30:49 > 0:30:52That's not going to fill a jar, is it?
0:30:52 > 0:30:57No. Those are the very expensive sweets.
0:30:57 > 0:31:00If the pressure to make a profit wasn't enough,
0:31:00 > 0:31:05confectioners were about to come under fire from a different quarter.
0:31:05 > 0:31:10In 1787, the Society for Effecting the Abolition of the Slave Trade
0:31:10 > 0:31:12was formed and began to draw
0:31:12 > 0:31:16attention to the role slavery played in Britain's sugar supply.
0:31:18 > 0:31:23Among the society's earliest members was the ceramicist Josiah Wedgwood,
0:31:23 > 0:31:26whose elegant dinner services graced the tables of royalty,
0:31:26 > 0:31:30the aristocracy and the middle classes.
0:31:30 > 0:31:33Of course, so much of this fashionable world
0:31:33 > 0:31:34was only made possible from
0:31:34 > 0:31:37the money that was pouring into British towns and cities
0:31:37 > 0:31:39from the sugar trade -
0:31:39 > 0:31:42fortunes built on the back of slave labour in the Caribbean.
0:31:42 > 0:31:46What is surprising is that Josiah Wedgwood knew this too,
0:31:46 > 0:31:49and was determined to do something about it.
0:31:51 > 0:31:54Wedgwood was motivated by his Christian faith,
0:31:54 > 0:31:57as were many other members of the society.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00They distributed thousands of pamphlets and prints
0:32:00 > 0:32:01in an attempt to get
0:32:01 > 0:32:05the British public to wake up to the cruelty of slavery,
0:32:05 > 0:32:10as well as petitioning Parliament to abolish the trade.
0:32:10 > 0:32:14When this failed, they came up with a bold plan -
0:32:14 > 0:32:18a consumer boycott of slave-grown sugar.
0:32:22 > 0:32:25These beautiful little medallions were just one of Wedgwood's
0:32:25 > 0:32:29contributions to what would become the sugar boycott.
0:32:29 > 0:32:31They're about the size of a small badge.
0:32:31 > 0:32:35In the centre they have this image of an enslaved man in chains,
0:32:35 > 0:32:39with the words "Am I not a man and a brother"
0:32:39 > 0:32:41inscribed around the edges.
0:32:41 > 0:32:43Much like wearing an awareness ribbon today,
0:32:43 > 0:32:47Wedgwood gave these away for free to anybody who supported the cause.
0:32:52 > 0:32:55The medallions were a stroke of marketing genius.
0:32:55 > 0:32:58A fellow abolitionist, Thomas Clarkson, noted,
0:32:58 > 0:33:00perhaps a little snootily,
0:33:00 > 0:33:04"Fashion, which usefully confines itself to worthless things,
0:33:04 > 0:33:09"was seen promoting the cause of justice, humanity and freedom."
0:33:11 > 0:33:13Rejected by Parliament, but...
0:33:13 > 0:33:16- VOICEOVER:- The medallions were only one part of the campaign.
0:33:18 > 0:33:24So, central to the success of the 1791 boycott
0:33:24 > 0:33:26was the dissemination of pamphlets
0:33:26 > 0:33:32that gave the public information about the conditions under which
0:33:32 > 0:33:35the sugar was being produced. Images were employed.
0:33:35 > 0:33:39What it's referring to is an incident
0:33:39 > 0:33:43where a young male slave fell ill,
0:33:43 > 0:33:46and as a punishment for that,
0:33:46 > 0:33:51he was submerged in this vat of boiling sugar.
0:33:51 > 0:33:56And then this little caption is saying that, after the submergence,
0:33:56 > 0:33:59you'll be currycombed, which was...
0:33:59 > 0:34:01Anyone know what a currycomb is?
0:34:01 > 0:34:06- No.- Like a sharp metal brush with pointed ends,
0:34:06 > 0:34:11that would be raked viciously over the skin to tear the skin.
0:34:14 > 0:34:17I mean, we all know how much it hurts when you get, you know,
0:34:17 > 0:34:20- sugar syrup on you.- Yeah.
0:34:20 > 0:34:23Just a tiny little bit, but to be completely...
0:34:23 > 0:34:27- Submerged.- ..submerged, and then currycombed.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29I mean...
0:34:30 > 0:34:32To achieve what?
0:34:32 > 0:34:35Just to strike absolute fear.
0:34:35 > 0:34:41- In everybody else?- So that there will be no attempt at escape,
0:34:41 > 0:34:44that there'll be nothing that interrupts
0:34:44 > 0:34:49- the maximisation of the profit from the crops.- Total obedience.
0:34:49 > 0:34:50Yes.
0:34:55 > 0:34:57It's hard to read out.
0:35:00 > 0:35:01Sorry.
0:35:05 > 0:35:09This incident is very typical of day-to-day life
0:35:09 > 0:35:11in the Caribbean colonies.
0:35:14 > 0:35:18But with Britain so financially dependent on this brutal system,
0:35:18 > 0:35:22a consumer boycott presented a clear moral dilemma
0:35:22 > 0:35:25for confectioners and their customers.
0:35:25 > 0:35:29There is, however, an alternative source of sugar,
0:35:29 > 0:35:34and that comes from the newly developing East Indian sugar.
0:35:34 > 0:35:37However, it's a lot more expensive,
0:35:37 > 0:35:40because it's not being made by slave labour.
0:35:40 > 0:35:45The moral dilemma for people in your profession is, what would you do?
0:35:45 > 0:35:48I'm not sure at the time whether, even despite all of this,
0:35:48 > 0:35:50whether there was sufficient public pressure.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53Was it ever employed as a marketing tool?
0:35:53 > 0:35:56- Yes.- Did they ever sort of say, "Ah, but our sugar comes from..."?
0:35:56 > 0:36:01Yes, there was, and if you made the decision to use the sugar
0:36:01 > 0:36:06from the East Indies, you could have put a poster like this
0:36:06 > 0:36:08- up in your window.- Ah!
0:36:08 > 0:36:12"By six families using East India instead of West India sugar,
0:36:12 > 0:36:14"one slave less is required."
0:36:14 > 0:36:17I think we're much more ethical now.
0:36:17 > 0:36:20- I think we are.- I am, and I would go down the more ethical route.
0:36:20 > 0:36:22As independent entrepreneurs,
0:36:22 > 0:36:26the use of East Indian sugar was a big financial risk
0:36:26 > 0:36:28for Georgian confectioners.
0:36:28 > 0:36:33West Indian plantation owners were the most powerful political lobby of
0:36:33 > 0:36:37the time, and they persuaded the government to impose heavy duties
0:36:37 > 0:36:39on the East Indian sugar,
0:36:39 > 0:36:43making it three times more expensive than their own product.
0:36:46 > 0:36:48- Ready?- Yeah.
0:36:50 > 0:36:53- The colour's coming out, though, look.- Look at that green.
0:36:53 > 0:36:57Confectioners needed to create sweets so enticing that customers
0:36:57 > 0:37:00would be willing to pay the extra cost for their more ethical product.
0:37:00 > 0:37:03So, Andy, Diana, Paul and Cynthia
0:37:03 > 0:37:07are trying a recipe for beautifully coloured French ribbons,
0:37:07 > 0:37:09another type of boiled sweet.
0:37:09 > 0:37:13It says in this book to roll it into long thin strands and then plait it
0:37:13 > 0:37:15- and knot it and whatever else. - Right, OK.
0:37:15 > 0:37:18- So whatever you can do, really. - Not as easy as it looks, is it?
0:37:18 > 0:37:20No, nowhere near.
0:37:20 > 0:37:23I am clenching my buttocks with the heat.
0:37:26 > 0:37:29- It's crystallising.- It is, isn't it? - The green's gone.
0:37:30 > 0:37:33They remembered the lemon juice but, once again,
0:37:33 > 0:37:37the sugar is crystallising, wasting precious ingredients.
0:37:37 > 0:37:40- That's gone.- You've lost that now. - Ohh...
0:37:40 > 0:37:43What are we going to do, then? What are we going to do?
0:37:43 > 0:37:45I've got the weakest hands.
0:37:45 > 0:37:48- We've lost that one. - It's so tricky.
0:37:48 > 0:37:50It says French ribbon,
0:37:50 > 0:37:54and I was imagining all of us being able to pull flat ribbons.
0:37:54 > 0:37:57- I was, yeah.- And twisting and curling and bowing.
0:37:57 > 0:37:59- I was.- It's really frustrating.
0:37:59 > 0:38:00I feel a bit defeated.
0:38:03 > 0:38:05Despite their poor yields,
0:38:05 > 0:38:08the confectioners must stock their shop window.
0:38:08 > 0:38:12Come and see how they catch the light.
0:38:12 > 0:38:14But Diana is concerned about the quality
0:38:14 > 0:38:17as well as the quantity of their sweets.
0:38:17 > 0:38:22I am gutted that we didn't manage to get this silky, glossy ribbon.
0:38:22 > 0:38:27Yeah, but, I mean, when you think about it, when people do sugar work,
0:38:27 > 0:38:30they are actually skilled, and they've been working with sugar...
0:38:30 > 0:38:32- We're skilled!- ..for, like, decades.
0:38:32 > 0:38:35I suppose what's playing on my mind, as well,
0:38:35 > 0:38:38is the fact that we've made this decision
0:38:38 > 0:38:40to go with the East India sugar,
0:38:40 > 0:38:43so we've got to charge more and, you know,
0:38:43 > 0:38:45it needs to look absolutely top-notch.
0:38:45 > 0:38:48Almost as important as all the sweets you've put there
0:38:48 > 0:38:49is to put the sign up here.
0:38:49 > 0:38:52- Definitely get the sign in the window.- Absolutely.
0:38:52 > 0:38:57The sugar boycott was one of the earliest ethical protests
0:38:57 > 0:39:00by consumers. Over 300,000 people took part,
0:39:00 > 0:39:05with grocers reporting a slump in sugar sales of over a third.
0:39:05 > 0:39:09It was also a huge propaganda victory for the abolitionists,
0:39:09 > 0:39:11drawing mass attention to their cause.
0:39:13 > 0:39:18Finally, in 1807, the decades of intense campaigning paid off,
0:39:18 > 0:39:22and the British slave trade was banned,
0:39:22 > 0:39:25although slaves already working on plantations were not freed.
0:39:34 > 0:39:36It's day three in Bath.
0:39:36 > 0:39:40Our confectioners may have struggled to fill their shop window,
0:39:40 > 0:39:43but there is still a chance to redeem themselves
0:39:43 > 0:39:46as caterers to a wealthy dinner party.
0:39:46 > 0:39:49They'll be creating a spectacular dessert course,
0:39:49 > 0:39:52starting with a dish that the Georgians saw
0:39:52 > 0:39:57as the height of glamour and sophistication - jelly!
0:39:57 > 0:40:00Calves' feet.
0:40:00 > 0:40:01- Excellent.- Mmm!
0:40:01 > 0:40:05But there's nothing glamorous about one of jelly's main ingredients.
0:40:05 > 0:40:10- This is a real delicacy back home. - Is it, really?- Yeah, absolutely.
0:40:10 > 0:40:13Any African household would get very excited about the sight of this.
0:40:13 > 0:40:16- What do you cook them with? - You typically cook this with
0:40:16 > 0:40:20tomatoes and peppers and spices and stuff,
0:40:20 > 0:40:23and you give it to really, really special visitors.
0:40:23 > 0:40:26You'd probably expect to pay about, I don't know,
0:40:26 > 0:40:28£20 for a dish containing one of these.
0:40:28 > 0:40:33- Right. So it's a really expensive cut, then?- Yeah, absolutely,
0:40:33 > 0:40:36because the argument is, a cow's got however much of steak in it,
0:40:36 > 0:40:40- but it's only got four feet. - True enough.- So it's, you know...
0:40:40 > 0:40:43For the Georgians, jelly making was a day's work.
0:40:45 > 0:40:49- Calm yourself, Cynthia.- I know, I know!- Stop thinking savoury.
0:40:49 > 0:40:53The first task is to extract the gelatine from the calves' feet.
0:40:53 > 0:40:57Ready-made gelatine wouldn't be developed until the Victorian era.
0:40:57 > 0:41:00- Lovely. - So that's going to be an for,
0:41:00 > 0:41:03gosh, at least four or five hours, isn't it?
0:41:04 > 0:41:08For royalty and aristocracy, sweet jellies had been on the menu
0:41:08 > 0:41:11since Henry VIII developed a taste for them,
0:41:11 > 0:41:14but the time-consuming process of making jelly meant that
0:41:14 > 0:41:17until the 18th century it could only be enjoyed
0:41:17 > 0:41:21by those wealthy enough to keep a fully staffed kitchen.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29Lovely.
0:41:29 > 0:41:33- It does smell extraordinarily meaty, doesn't it?- It does.
0:41:33 > 0:41:37I can picture my mother going, "All that lovely meat wasted!"
0:41:37 > 0:41:41After five hours of boiling, the calves' feet are discarded.
0:41:41 > 0:41:43It's time for our confectioners
0:41:43 > 0:41:45to clarify the murky stock and hopefully
0:41:45 > 0:41:47transform it into clear gelatine.
0:41:47 > 0:41:50"Beat the whites of five eggs to a froth,
0:41:50 > 0:41:55"add one pint of Lisbon Madeira or pale wine, and if you choose it,
0:41:55 > 0:41:57"the juice of three lemons."
0:41:57 > 0:42:01- And some crushed shells? - And we'll put the shells in, yeah.
0:42:01 > 0:42:04It helps to draw the solids out of the stock.
0:42:04 > 0:42:06It's the, um...
0:42:06 > 0:42:09Diana, who's trained as a chef, is using the same techniques
0:42:09 > 0:42:13which helped her clarify the dirty sugar in the Tudor kitchen.
0:42:13 > 0:42:15I think we've got a bag of sugar, haven't we?
0:42:17 > 0:42:20No, it needs a bit more.
0:42:20 > 0:42:21That is...
0:42:21 > 0:42:24- Just meaty?- At the moment, that is disgusting, yeah.
0:42:24 > 0:42:25Just sweetie meaty!
0:42:27 > 0:42:30There is a wonderful moment when you're clarifying a stock
0:42:30 > 0:42:34for a consomme, where you get this kind of cake of egg white
0:42:34 > 0:42:37that starts to set on the top of the stock,
0:42:37 > 0:42:40- when you just see this crystal-clear liquid kind of...bloop.- Yeah.
0:42:43 > 0:42:47Any remaining impurities are strained off using the muslin cloth.
0:42:47 > 0:42:49That looks beautiful!
0:42:49 > 0:42:53Finally, Cynthia and Diana have two pints of precious gelatine
0:42:53 > 0:42:55to work with.
0:42:55 > 0:42:56Perfect.
0:42:56 > 0:43:02- Yay!- Get you, Miss Lady, you know what you're doing.
0:43:03 > 0:43:07Georgian confectionery shops sold jelly by the glass,
0:43:07 > 0:43:11allowing easy access to a treat previously only enjoyed by the rich.
0:43:12 > 0:43:15But our confectioners are focusing on the more lucrative recipes
0:43:15 > 0:43:17of Elizabeth Raffald,
0:43:17 > 0:43:20a Manchester confectioner whose cookbook was a bestseller.
0:43:23 > 0:43:25Her elaborate dessert jellies epitomised
0:43:25 > 0:43:28the Georgian spirit of invention and playfulness.
0:43:30 > 0:43:32I'm going to attempt to blow some eggs.
0:43:32 > 0:43:36Never done this before, so this could be interesting.
0:43:36 > 0:43:38They're making some of Raffald's
0:43:38 > 0:43:41more elaborate and eccentric designs -
0:43:41 > 0:43:43fish in a pond, and a bird's nest.
0:43:43 > 0:43:44Lovely.
0:43:46 > 0:43:50I think these are going to be filled back up with flummery.
0:43:50 > 0:43:52To make the little eggs for the jelly nest,
0:43:52 > 0:43:55the gelatine will be mixed with cream to make flummery,
0:43:55 > 0:43:57a type of blancmange.
0:43:57 > 0:44:01- Right, I think a pint of cream is about that.- That.
0:44:01 > 0:44:04Yeah. I'm going to start shredding my lemon zest.
0:44:04 > 0:44:07- That looks beautiful.- Really sticky.
0:44:07 > 0:44:10I'm going to slice it into very, very thin,
0:44:10 > 0:44:13straw-like little strands of nest.
0:44:16 > 0:44:18That looks so lovely. It looks like straw, actually.
0:44:18 > 0:44:21It does, it's delicate. When we put it on the...
0:44:23 > 0:44:26- Well done.- It does go in. - Good shot.- You've done that earlier.
0:44:27 > 0:44:30Ooh, it's quite satisfying.
0:44:30 > 0:44:32See if we can do a big lump.
0:44:34 > 0:44:37If this goes over the edge...
0:44:37 > 0:44:39THEY ALL LAUGH
0:44:42 > 0:44:44I'm laughing on the inside.
0:44:44 > 0:44:46They are also using the flummery
0:44:46 > 0:44:49to make gilded fish to swim in the jelly pond.
0:44:49 > 0:44:52- It just tastes of air. - We'll have to shake it a bit
0:44:52 > 0:44:55- to get the air bubbles out. - Bang it on the table
0:44:55 > 0:44:57and it will go into all those little nooks and crannies.
0:45:00 > 0:45:04Dessert jellies are an elaborate and time-consuming dish.
0:45:04 > 0:45:06No wonder they were so expensive.
0:45:06 > 0:45:09Oh, I'm so excited about this one.
0:45:09 > 0:45:12Confectioners could sell their finest creations
0:45:12 > 0:45:17for three shillings each, the equivalent of £16 today.
0:45:17 > 0:45:20Actually, that's a good colour, you can see the colour now.
0:45:20 > 0:45:23Luckily, this recipe seems to be working.
0:45:23 > 0:45:26Cynthia's gelatine is a success, and after just 20 minutes
0:45:26 > 0:45:28the flummery is set.
0:45:28 > 0:45:32- Just take the shell off.- It is like the white of an egg, isn't it?
0:45:34 > 0:45:36Ooh, not quite as smooth as an egg.
0:45:36 > 0:45:38A little bit like a brain.
0:45:38 > 0:45:40CYNTHIA LAUGHS
0:45:40 > 0:45:44It could be pretty. We could gold-leaf it, though, couldn't we?
0:45:44 > 0:45:47- Yeah.- Just to make it look... - If in doubt, stick gold leaf on it.
0:45:47 > 0:45:51- Shall we try a fish? - I can't wait to try a fish!
0:45:55 > 0:45:57Ooh, look at that.
0:45:57 > 0:45:58Look at that!
0:45:58 > 0:46:00Oh, well done!
0:46:01 > 0:46:03Now the fish pond and bird's nest
0:46:03 > 0:46:06need to be assembled and put in the ice chest to set...
0:46:06 > 0:46:08- Oh...- It's OK.
0:46:08 > 0:46:11..but it's not as simple as it sounds.
0:46:16 > 0:46:19One of the fish is floating, like, you know the way...
0:46:19 > 0:46:22- Oh, my God, they're all floating now.- Oh, no.
0:46:22 > 0:46:25It's like wee little Bobby's died in the fish tank.
0:46:25 > 0:46:27- Have they moved?- Yeah.
0:46:27 > 0:46:30This is the point where you flush it down the toilet
0:46:30 > 0:46:33and quickly run down to the pet store before your kids wake up!
0:46:39 > 0:46:43After just an hour in the ice chest, it's time to turn out the jellies.
0:46:43 > 0:46:45You know the day before your driving test?
0:46:45 > 0:46:47- Yeah.- That's honestly... I'm churning now.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50Is it that bad? Oh, my goodness, I'm nervous as well!
0:46:50 > 0:46:53I feel like I'm going to watch you first,
0:46:53 > 0:46:55whilst I spent some time praying for this one.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01You've got to get that air underneath, haven't you?
0:47:01 > 0:47:03THEY ALL GASP
0:47:03 > 0:47:05THEY GASP AND LAUGH
0:47:05 > 0:47:08- It's looking good.- Is it? - It is looking very good.
0:47:08 > 0:47:11- Shall I take it off? - Go on, be brave.
0:47:11 > 0:47:13THEY CHEER
0:47:13 > 0:47:15- It's amazing.- It looks quite good. - Well done.
0:47:15 > 0:47:18- Fantastic.- It's so hard. - Oh, my God, look at it.
0:47:18 > 0:47:21- Put the candle beside it. - It's rock solid.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23Oh, look!
0:47:23 > 0:47:26Go for it, Cynth, you can do it!
0:47:28 > 0:47:31It's whether the fish want to come out.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33Look from below...
0:47:33 > 0:47:36If you lift the bowl, Paul, you can slip a little...
0:47:36 > 0:47:37So then...
0:47:37 > 0:47:41- Oh, it's coming, it's out. - Yeah, that's it.
0:47:41 > 0:47:43Yep, go!
0:47:43 > 0:47:45THEY CHEER AND LAUGH
0:47:49 > 0:47:52The jellies have turned out almost intact,
0:47:52 > 0:47:56even if the fish are floating in a slightly murky pond.
0:48:05 > 0:48:10By the 1820s, the number of confectionery shops had soared.
0:48:10 > 0:48:15Some cities had seen a fourfold increase since the 1780s.
0:48:15 > 0:48:17Despite the abolition of the slave trade,
0:48:17 > 0:48:20the sugar they used was still being produced
0:48:20 > 0:48:22by those trapped on the plantations.
0:48:24 > 0:48:27And there was a deep resistance to change.
0:48:27 > 0:48:30The West Indian lobby argued that freeing the slaves
0:48:30 > 0:48:33would be an economic disaster for the British.
0:48:33 > 0:48:36But the abolitionists never gave up.
0:48:39 > 0:48:42Finally, in 1833,
0:48:42 > 0:48:46after thousands of petitions coordinated by the campaign,
0:48:46 > 0:48:48Parliament passed an act
0:48:48 > 0:48:52abolishing slavery throughout the British Empire.
0:48:52 > 0:48:55But the government sweetened the pill for opponents.
0:48:56 > 0:48:59Now, what's really shocking is that it was the slave owners
0:48:59 > 0:49:03rather than the slaves who received compensation.
0:49:03 > 0:49:07In Bath alone, at least 67 slave owners made that claim,
0:49:07 > 0:49:11and one of them lived here at one of Bath's grandest addresses -
0:49:11 > 0:49:13Royal Crescent.
0:49:13 > 0:49:16A Jonathan Morgan from number 19
0:49:16 > 0:49:20received a total of £12,372
0:49:20 > 0:49:25in compensation - over £1 million in today's money.
0:49:34 > 0:49:37Despite fears of financial ruin,
0:49:37 > 0:49:40little had changed for Britain's wealthy elite.
0:49:40 > 0:49:43They could still afford to entertain lavishly,
0:49:43 > 0:49:45hiring in teams of confectioners
0:49:45 > 0:49:48to create the grand finale for their elaborate dinners.
0:49:48 > 0:49:51The dessert course is often regarded as something
0:49:51 > 0:49:55quite, quite extraordinary and very separate to the rest of the meal.
0:49:55 > 0:49:58That is where, as confectioners, professional confectioners,
0:49:58 > 0:49:59you would come in,
0:49:59 > 0:50:03but in the middle of the table, you need something showstopping.
0:50:03 > 0:50:06You're going to form a landscape.
0:50:06 > 0:50:10These are both Capability Brown landscape pictures for inspiration.
0:50:10 > 0:50:15The key words here are "taste" with a capital T, and "elegance".
0:50:15 > 0:50:20This is really a chance to create something which is pure, pure magic.
0:50:23 > 0:50:25I think we need to make sure it's all mixed in,
0:50:25 > 0:50:27then we can start putting in the powdered sugar,
0:50:27 > 0:50:29- because the powdered sugar's just to stiffen it.- OK.
0:50:29 > 0:50:32They're starting with an almond pastry base
0:50:32 > 0:50:33for their edible landscape,
0:50:33 > 0:50:36inspired by the designs of Capability Brown.
0:50:36 > 0:50:38This was known as a "piece montee".
0:50:38 > 0:50:41- Shall we pop them on to see the scale?- Yeah.
0:50:41 > 0:50:43Without breaking the mirror!
0:50:43 > 0:50:46Very, very gently.
0:50:46 > 0:50:47This way?
0:50:47 > 0:50:51The cost and high expectation mean that nothing but perfection will do.
0:50:51 > 0:50:54It's a bit like my dad's model railway.
0:50:54 > 0:50:58- That's what it reminds me of, doing this.- Yeah?- Right.
0:50:59 > 0:51:03- There you go.- That's it.- That's more like it.- It looks like a pasty.
0:51:03 > 0:51:07Now we need to rig up a washing line.
0:51:12 > 0:51:15Diana is making trees by coating sprigs of thyme
0:51:15 > 0:51:18and rosemary with syrup and coloured sugar.
0:51:20 > 0:51:23- That's quite effective, I like that. - That is beautiful!
0:51:23 > 0:51:27- They smell... - They do smell amazing, don't they?
0:51:27 > 0:51:29Lumpiness going on.
0:51:31 > 0:51:32It's getting lower.
0:51:35 > 0:51:37I'm happy with that.
0:51:39 > 0:51:43The piece montee was made famous by the first celebrity chef,
0:51:43 > 0:51:46the Frenchman Marie-Antoine Careme.
0:51:46 > 0:51:50The Prince Regent enticed him from Europe with a salary equivalent to
0:51:50 > 0:51:54£140,000 today.
0:51:54 > 0:51:58You can see how they would have spent a long time creating these,
0:51:58 > 0:52:00days and days probably.
0:52:00 > 0:52:02For one banquet alone,
0:52:02 > 0:52:07Careme created 127 dishes, and the star of the show
0:52:07 > 0:52:10was a four-foot-high Turkish marzipan mosque.
0:52:10 > 0:52:11It's really tricky.
0:52:11 > 0:52:15The smaller the models, the harder it is to get any sort of
0:52:15 > 0:52:19features on it. Just going to give her a little sun hat.
0:52:24 > 0:52:26She looks a bit more matronly.
0:52:26 > 0:52:28I think that's her mother, fussing along behind her,
0:52:28 > 0:52:31asking her when she's going to meet Mr Darcy.
0:52:31 > 0:52:33High-street confectioners
0:52:33 > 0:52:35could never hope to earn Careme's vast salary,
0:52:35 > 0:52:38but they could certainly ape his style.
0:52:38 > 0:52:40Oh, look at your ladies, they're fantastic!
0:52:40 > 0:52:43- Aren't they lovely?- Look at the weeping willow.- That's gorgeous.
0:52:43 > 0:52:47Investing so much time in a piece montee could be worth it.
0:52:47 > 0:52:49Sometimes they wouldn't even be eaten
0:52:49 > 0:52:52and could be hired out again and again.
0:52:52 > 0:52:56If we were to take some of this crumble...
0:52:58 > 0:53:00Ah!
0:53:00 > 0:53:02- That's brilliant!- It is.
0:53:02 > 0:53:05- She is good, isn't she?- She is good, she's very clever.
0:53:05 > 0:53:07The centrepiece will test their expertise
0:53:07 > 0:53:09in all forms of Georgian sugar work.
0:53:11 > 0:53:14Paul's made boulders out of nougatine,
0:53:14 > 0:53:15chopped almonds and caramel,
0:53:15 > 0:53:18while Andy's spinning sugar for the waterfall.
0:53:21 > 0:53:23- Oh, fabulous.- Fantastic. - Look at that!
0:53:23 > 0:53:26- That is so good. - Bubbly water at the bottom.
0:53:26 > 0:53:28Now all the elements are in place,
0:53:28 > 0:53:32the final job is to fill the lake with melted sugar.
0:53:32 > 0:53:35Half of me just wants to leave the mirror,
0:53:35 > 0:53:38because if it goes wrong or it goes cloudy...
0:53:38 > 0:53:43It is risky, but I think, you know, this will be the safe option,
0:53:43 > 0:53:46- to leave it mirrored. - We don't do safe, though, do we?
0:53:46 > 0:53:48- No, we don't do safe. - Right.
0:53:49 > 0:53:51Hot, hot, hot.
0:53:51 > 0:53:54- Is it cool enough? - Have you cooled it down a bit?
0:53:54 > 0:53:57A little bit. Shall we just put it on there for a second?
0:53:57 > 0:54:00Shall we try it on a little tiny piece first?
0:54:00 > 0:54:02We could do it here, yes.
0:54:02 > 0:54:04Oh, fantastic!
0:54:04 > 0:54:06That looks incredible.
0:54:10 > 0:54:13There's a huge crystal in it there, look.
0:54:15 > 0:54:18If it crystallises, it will just be a winter scene.
0:54:18 > 0:54:21- Exactly, with frosted trees. - First frosty morning of the season.
0:54:25 > 0:54:27- I like the shoreline.- Yes.
0:54:27 > 0:54:30- It really makes it look like a real shoreline.- It really works.
0:54:30 > 0:54:33- CRACK! - Ooh!- Something happened.
0:54:33 > 0:54:36- Has it cracked?- It has. - Oh, it has.
0:54:36 > 0:54:38That's a big crack.
0:54:38 > 0:54:39- Cracked the mirror?- Yes.
0:54:39 > 0:54:42It is the mirror, yeah, yeah.
0:54:42 > 0:54:43Let's pop that down.
0:54:45 > 0:54:47It is crystallising, look.
0:54:47 > 0:54:50Will it go completely white, or will we have a little bit of opaque?
0:54:50 > 0:54:54No, it will be opaque. Pearlescent, I suppose.
0:54:54 > 0:54:56OK. Which might be OK.
0:54:56 > 0:54:58- It would hide the crack.- Yeah.
0:55:03 > 0:55:08The mirror has held together, so the piece montee is intact.
0:55:08 > 0:55:10Georgian confectioners offered a whole service -
0:55:10 > 0:55:15making, delivering and presenting their dishes.
0:55:15 > 0:55:17It was well-paid work.
0:55:17 > 0:55:19A bill from the famous Negri's in London
0:55:19 > 0:55:21shows one dessert course costing
0:55:21 > 0:55:25the equivalent of over £2,000 in today's money.
0:55:27 > 0:55:28Beautiful table.
0:55:28 > 0:55:32- Right, so it needs to be central. - Yeah.
0:55:32 > 0:55:33Mind the glasses.
0:55:33 > 0:55:36A little bit more, a bit more, perfect.
0:55:36 > 0:55:39- There we go.- OK.- It's sparkling.
0:55:39 > 0:55:42Laying the table was an art in itself.
0:55:42 > 0:55:46Everything has to be placed in a symmetrical and balanced formation.
0:55:46 > 0:55:48- Fruit at the four corners.- Yeah.
0:55:48 > 0:55:51What about a jelly opposite each other here?
0:55:51 > 0:55:53And opposite, yes, yes, I like that.
0:55:53 > 0:55:55Jelly, jelly, ice, ice.
0:55:55 > 0:55:57- Yeah?- Yeah.
0:55:57 > 0:55:59- Ah, hello.- Hello!
0:55:59 > 0:56:02It's exquisite looking.
0:56:02 > 0:56:04Isn't this just beautiful?
0:56:04 > 0:56:08It really is. No idea what anything is!
0:56:08 > 0:56:11But it looks great.
0:56:11 > 0:56:13This is really, really good.
0:56:13 > 0:56:16This is just so in the Georgian spirit.
0:56:20 > 0:56:24Unprecedented access to sugar meant more and more of the British public
0:56:24 > 0:56:28were able to develop a taste for the sweeter things in life.
0:56:30 > 0:56:32Almost too beautiful to eat!
0:56:32 > 0:56:34Georgians have been amazing.
0:56:34 > 0:56:38Surprising, exciting, just everything.
0:56:38 > 0:56:43That is so good. I am really actually bowled over by that.
0:56:43 > 0:56:47The increasing wealth of a rapidly growing middle class
0:56:47 > 0:56:52provided the new confectionery shops with an enthusiastic audience
0:56:52 > 0:56:54for their artistic creations.
0:56:54 > 0:56:56THEY ALL CHEER
0:56:56 > 0:56:58It's amazing!
0:56:58 > 0:57:01So nice to make something that's totally for show and not wholesale.
0:57:01 > 0:57:05Whoever could afford to pay to have something like this made,
0:57:05 > 0:57:07they'd really made it, I think, in society.
0:57:07 > 0:57:09Cleanses the palate.
0:57:09 > 0:57:11As independent entrepreneurs,
0:57:11 > 0:57:15Georgian confectioners could express their skills in a way that resonates
0:57:15 > 0:57:18with our modern-day professionals.
0:57:18 > 0:57:21I do relate to the elegance.
0:57:21 > 0:57:27There's so much more refinement and enjoying things being beautiful.
0:57:27 > 0:57:32- Ooh...- That's come out really well. - It's so clever, isn't it?
0:57:32 > 0:57:36It's about showing off my skills as a confectioner.
0:57:36 > 0:57:39It's glitz and glam and twinkly.
0:57:39 > 0:57:42It's set out with thought and precision,
0:57:42 > 0:57:46and my life is all about thought and precision and detail.
0:57:46 > 0:57:48It's absolutely delicious.
0:57:59 > 0:58:03INDISTINCT CONVERSATION
0:58:03 > 0:58:06Next week, our confectioners leave the Georgian high street behind
0:58:06 > 0:58:08and move into a Victorian workshop.
0:58:08 > 0:58:11Look at all the equipment. It's very industrial.
0:58:11 > 0:58:15No longer artisans producing high-end luxury goods,
0:58:15 > 0:58:19they will be making cheap sweets for the mass market.