Furness Journey

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:00:06. > :00:12.I'm Stuart Maconie and like thousands of other people I'm

:00:12. > :00:15.passionate about the Lake District. But a part of Cumbria that's just

:00:15. > :00:22.as fascinating but not as well known is this - the Furness

:00:22. > :00:26.known is this - the Furness peninsular. With Barrow-in-Furness

:00:26. > :00:28.at its tip and surrounded on three sides by water with mountains along

:00:28. > :00:33.the top, the peninsula is geographically cut off from the

:00:33. > :00:40.rest of the country. It's not the kind of place you'd stumble across

:00:40. > :00:45.by accident or pass through on your way to somewhere else. But as we'll

:00:45. > :00:48.see there's more to this peninsula than the famous shipyard behind me.

:00:48. > :00:51.It may not enjoy the tourism the lake district but people have been

:00:51. > :00:55.coming here for centuries by land and sea all contributing to the

:00:55. > :01:05.history of Furness - a great British story. --Lake District

:01:05. > :01:22.

:01:22. > :01:28.Furness was named by the Vikings. 'Ness' meaning headland, so

:01:28. > :01:33.literally this is the far headland. And there are plenty more Viking

:01:33. > :01:37.names around. Biggar, Barrow, Ormsgill. But the Norsemen left

:01:37. > :01:39.more than just a linguistic heritage. Under this very rock,

:01:39. > :01:42.last summer, an amateur treasure hunter armed with a metal detector

:01:42. > :01:46.uncovered some rather spectacular evidence of Viking settlement in

:01:46. > :01:50.the 10th century. And this is the treasure that was found in the

:01:50. > :01:54.field. Sabine, can you tell me what's here? We have a really mixed

:01:54. > :01:57.bag as you can tell. We have coins and ingots and even a bracelet.

:01:57. > :02:07.This shows that it is definitely a Viking hoard and one of the coins

:02:07. > :02:15.is from thousands of miles away. It's an arabicdirrum. It's a

:02:15. > :02:20.beautiful coin and in really lovely condition. The shows what great

:02:20. > :02:30.traders the Vikings were. They had massive trading links. Of course,

:02:30. > :02:34.

:02:34. > :02:37.we think that the Vikings are the reason why we have Russia. There's

:02:37. > :02:44.a popular image of Vikings being Pillagers but they were more

:02:44. > :02:49.cultured and cultivated than that? Absolutely. They were probably

:02:49. > :02:52.settled here and had farms here. And that was one of the reasons why

:02:52. > :02:56.we've not found a great town. Maybe they were just staying in

:02:57. > :03:03.countryside dwellings. But perhaps they were still doing elements of

:03:03. > :03:07.raiding and trading. We don't really know as we don't have any

:03:07. > :03:10.documentary evidence of that area. So hoards like this give us a lot

:03:10. > :03:15.of information. So is this quite exciting for you? Oh, yes, really

:03:15. > :03:18.exciting. We're delighted. We've been waiting for this for a long

:03:18. > :03:28.time and we're delighted it's come and it really shines a spotlight on

:03:28. > :03:29.

:03:29. > :03:32.the whole area. After the Vikings came another invasion of sorts. In

:03:32. > :03:34.1127, Norman monks came and built this beautiful abbey here in this

:03:34. > :03:43.remote part of the Furness peninsula The Abbey grew into one

:03:43. > :03:45.of the richest and most powerful organisations in the country.

:03:45. > :03:52.Controlling the peninsula, the monks were adept businessmen and

:03:52. > :03:56.landowners. What would day to day life for monks have been like? What

:03:56. > :04:01.would it have entailed, I mean prayer obviously? Seven times a day

:04:01. > :04:11.for prayer, in the church and the lay brethren that supported them.

:04:11. > :04:14.

:04:14. > :04:16.Quiet contemplation, obviously. But a work ethic as well, getting on

:04:16. > :04:19.with things that needed doing, whether it's manuscript production

:04:19. > :04:22.or whether it's working in the gardens and caring for the sick. So

:04:22. > :04:29.there's an active life for the monk within. For the Abbey without

:04:29. > :04:32.there's a whole economy to run. Would there have been a fairly big

:04:32. > :04:35.community? Do we know how many people would have been here, how

:04:35. > :04:39.many monks? We know when it's dissolved by Henry the eighth,

:04:39. > :04:42.there was only 28 monks left, which is kind of a shrinking number, I

:04:42. > :04:45.suspected its peak you're probably not looking at much more than a

:04:45. > :04:48.hundred. It waxes and wanes during the 14th century with the famine

:04:48. > :04:51.and black plague. It's dipping and they never really recovered from

:04:51. > :04:54.that in all honesty. I'm slightly staggered, Kevin, by that figure,

:04:54. > :04:57.about a hundred, cause I would look around here and think about

:04:57. > :05:07.thousands of people would live here? Yeah it's a big place isn't

:05:07. > :05:10.

:05:10. > :05:13.it for just a few pretty privileged people who society gains. So we're

:05:13. > :05:16.really talking about a small group of powerful people, and one who

:05:16. > :05:19.eventually get their, if I can mix up all my historical eras, meet

:05:19. > :05:22.their Waterloo with Henry VIII? Does that put paid to them

:05:22. > :05:25.completely?' Yes. The impact on Furness in 1537 is closure, is

:05:25. > :05:27.stripping of the lead and any other valuable things for the kings

:05:27. > :05:33.resources. And what about the monks, scattered to the four winds?

:05:33. > :05:36.Furness fights, Furness has always been independent. It tries to fight

:05:36. > :05:39.suppression but in the end has to give up. But they'll have got

:05:39. > :05:42.everything out. They'll have got their plate and their silver and

:05:42. > :05:45.their manuscripts. They'll have moved it out and set themselves up.

:05:45. > :05:49.They'll have known where they were going. Historians will now be able

:05:49. > :05:51.to find out even more about the lifestyle of the Monks following a

:05:51. > :05:53.really exciting discovery. When carrying out some repairs to the

:05:54. > :05:57.Abbey's presbytery, they unearthed a previously undiscovered grave of

:05:57. > :05:59.an Abbot who'd been buried with his bronze crozier. We expected the

:05:59. > :06:03.19th century antiquarians to have stripped the lot but they missed

:06:03. > :06:06.one. Imagine the wooden staff coming off and you've got it rising

:06:06. > :06:16.up curling round this rather beautiful detailed head here. It

:06:16. > :06:21.

:06:21. > :06:24.looks like a dog, probably a dog serpent. And then we've got St

:06:24. > :06:26.Michael the archangel slaying the dragon here with a sword in his

:06:27. > :06:29.right hand just inset into the Croziers hook. It's a particularly,

:06:29. > :06:35.well, unexpected, rare, extraordinary find. And, again,

:06:36. > :06:42.opulent. Tells you a little bit about how rich an establishment

:06:42. > :06:47.this must have been. Found with the abbot's skeleton, what does that

:06:47. > :06:50.tell us about him and the lifestyle here? He seems to have been a

:06:50. > :06:53.fairly portly chap, he's obviously lived quite well. He's about 40 or

:06:54. > :06:56.50 years old when he dies, he'd got a bit of arthritis, a bit of

:06:56. > :06:59.diabetes setting in, but otherwise his bones are actually pretty

:06:59. > :07:02.healthy, he's done pretty well. he himself, his bones are now all

:07:02. > :07:05.over the place being analysed? bones are scattered around the

:07:05. > :07:12.known universe, being analysed by all sorts of people. We hope to get

:07:12. > :07:15.a date on him, from the radiocarbon. We hope to analyse his teeth and

:07:15. > :07:18.find out where he might have come from and we hope to look at him

:07:18. > :07:22.compared to his brethren that were also excavated, to see, you know,

:07:22. > :07:25.what the difference is in health, stature was. So the monks of

:07:25. > :07:35.Furness Abbey may have been long since forced out but they have left

:07:35. > :07:43.

:07:43. > :07:46.these wonderful ruins to remember Just over a hundred years after the

:07:46. > :07:52.dissolution of Furness Abbey, a new religious movement was founded in

:07:52. > :07:55.more modest surroundings a short distance away. It was here at

:07:55. > :07:57.Swarthmoor Hall near Ulverston that Judge Thomas Fell and his wife

:07:57. > :08:07.Margaret received a strange and unconventional visitor, who was to

:08:07. > :08:13.

:08:13. > :08:20.change their lives, and the lives George Fox hailed from

:08:20. > :08:22.Leicestershire. In the 17th century the charismatic firebrand travelled

:08:23. > :08:25.the country preaching a controversial message that God is

:08:26. > :08:29.within us all and we have need for priests or organised religion.

:08:29. > :08:32.Having had a vision at the top of Pendle Hill in Lancashire, George

:08:33. > :08:41.Fox made his way to Swarthmoor Hall where he would go on to found the

:08:41. > :08:44.Quaker movement with the help of the people of the Furness peninsula.

:08:45. > :08:50.What he knows about Swarthmoor Hall is it is the home of a judge,

:08:50. > :08:54.Thomas Fell, and his wife Margaret. They are sincere Puritans. Judge

:08:54. > :09:02.Fell is quite a bigwig, he's a lawyer, he's a friend of Cromwell's,

:09:02. > :09:07.a former MP. And he uses this house, Judge Fell, as a sort of open house

:09:08. > :09:11.for travelling Puritan preachers. So it's natural, I think, that Fox

:09:11. > :09:16.would have made his way here. the Fells taking a great risk in

:09:16. > :09:25.sheltering and protecting Fox? Was it seen as a very scandalous thing

:09:25. > :09:27.to do? After the execution of the King in 1649 there's this huge,

:09:27. > :09:30.almost desperate search for truth in religion and creating a Godly

:09:30. > :09:36.country. That's what people are trying to do. So at that time,

:09:36. > :09:38.Quakerism is one of a whole range of different possibilities. Yes, it

:09:38. > :09:41.is threatening at the very beginning and it's threatening

:09:41. > :09:48.because it challenges the status quo and it challenges the status

:09:48. > :09:58.quo socially, religiously, politically. So to that extent they

:09:58. > :09:59.

:09:59. > :10:01.are taking a risk. George Fox travelled extensively but always

:10:01. > :10:05.returned to his base at Swarthmoor and following Judge Fell's death,

:10:05. > :10:08.he married his widow Margaret, who is seen as the mother of the Quaker

:10:08. > :10:10.movement. And three hundred and sixty years after George Fox first

:10:10. > :10:20.arrived here, Swarthmoor still hosts Quaker meetings which are

:10:20. > :10:21.

:10:21. > :10:24.held in silence. So you come into the Quaker meeting, you try to drop

:10:24. > :10:29.the cares of the world, as it were, concentrate on things of the spirit.

:10:29. > :10:36.If somebody feels moved to speak they can stand up and speak.

:10:36. > :10:44.There's no separate clergy, there's no fixed liturgy. It's using the

:10:44. > :10:54.silence as a way of worship. personal experience is all we need

:10:54. > :11:09.

:11:10. > :11:13.I thought I knew Cumbria pretty well. I do spend a lot of time here

:11:13. > :11:16.and yet I had no idea that a major world religion was founded here

:11:16. > :11:19.just a few miles outside Ulverston. I also had no experience until this

:11:19. > :11:21.morning of a Quaker meeting, and far from finding it odd or

:11:22. > :11:31.uncomfortable or self-conscious, it seemed both quiet and reflective

:11:32. > :11:36.

:11:36. > :11:46.and the most natural thing in the We don't normally associate Cumbria

:11:46. > :11:48.

:11:48. > :11:51.with heavy industry. We may have a picturesque Beatrix Potter notion

:11:51. > :11:54.of gambolling lambs, the odd ruminative cow. In fact, these

:11:54. > :12:02.beautiful Cumbrian hills are rich in the mineral deposits which

:12:02. > :12:07.transformed the Cumbrian peninsula. The Burlington Quarry is one of the

:12:07. > :12:13.deepest man-made holes in Europe. As you can see, people are still

:12:13. > :12:20.working here. But demand really peaked during the housing boom of

:12:20. > :12:23.the Victorian era. The blue slate was needed for roofing tiles. This

:12:23. > :12:26.land, which was rich in slate and iron ore and copper, was owned by

:12:26. > :12:31.the Duke of Devonshire. He needed a way of transporting these valuable

:12:31. > :12:41.minerals to the docks at Barrow. So, in 1846, he built the Furness

:12:41. > :13:00.

:13:00. > :13:06.What started as a hobby for father and son Geoff and Marc Dobson has

:13:06. > :13:10.now become a cottage industry. They make and sell models of the Furness

:13:10. > :13:13.Railway all over the world from their workshop in Geoff's garage.

:13:13. > :13:17.So this is a scale model of the Furness Railway. When the original

:13:18. > :13:23.railway came, what kind of impact did it have on this area? Massive.

:13:23. > :13:25.It can't be underestimated. It was the area. If it wasn't for the

:13:25. > :13:29.railway, the mines wouldn't have taken off. If the mines hadn't

:13:29. > :13:33.taken off, there wouldn't then be steel mills. If there wasn't any

:13:33. > :13:37.steel mills, there wouldn't be a shipyard. I think you've got to

:13:37. > :13:45.transport yourself back. Pre- railway, the only way they got iron

:13:45. > :13:50.ore or anything out of the minerals was on a horse. Or on a sledge.

:13:50. > :13:56.Dragged along the road and the road wouldn't be surfaced. We didn't

:13:56. > :14:00.have the surface roads we take for granted. So the railway linked the

:14:00. > :14:10.peninsula in with the country? It became less of an isolated spot in

:14:10. > :14:11.

:14:11. > :14:18.general? Very much so. There has always been that isolation. So the

:14:18. > :14:23.railway link to the peninsula and it became less isolated? Very much

:14:24. > :14:27.so. If you look at the far line, there's 2 NE hopper wagons. Over

:14:27. > :14:36.80% of the coal and coke that came to the steelworks came from the

:14:36. > :14:43.North East in those. And who buys what you make here? There's lots of

:14:43. > :14:46.enthusiasts all over the country. In fact, we've got export orders to

:14:46. > :14:54.Canada, America, Australia, New Zealand. Ex-pats who want to build

:14:54. > :14:58.what we have in front of you. thought they would be very keen on

:14:58. > :15:02.this. Yes. So, initially, I'm thinking you weren't as keen on

:15:02. > :15:09.model railways as your dad? No. I wanted a Scalextric, but I never

:15:09. > :15:14.got one until last year. My wife got me one for Christmas. Is it

:15:14. > :15:24.good? Very good. I've got two Mini Coopers at long last.

:15:24. > :15:31.

:15:31. > :15:36.The Furness Railway is still running. I'm going to retrace the

:15:36. > :15:46.journey of copper, slate and iron ore. It would've went from Kirkby

:15:46. > :15:47.

:15:47. > :15:51.in Furness down to Barrow-in- Furness. The train hugs the West

:15:51. > :16:01.Coast of Cumbria. It really is one of the most scenic railway journeys

:16:01. > :16:05.in the country. Just across the sands from the Furness Railway in

:16:05. > :16:08.Millom, there lived a poet called Norman Nicholson. His verse is

:16:09. > :16:17.steeped in the landscape and industry of this part of the world.

:16:17. > :16:21.I'd like to read a poem. It's When the sea's to the west.

:16:21. > :16:24.The evenings are one dazzle. You can find no sign of water.

:16:24. > :16:28.Sun upflows the horizon. Waves of Shine.

:16:28. > :16:31.Heave, crest, fracture. Explode on the shore.

:16:31. > :16:41.The wide day burns. In the incandescent mantle of the

:16:41. > :16:57.

:16:58. > :17:02.It is impossible to overestimate the importance of the railways on

:17:02. > :17:07.the peninsula. The Duke of Devonshire hired James Ramsden to

:17:07. > :17:10.oversee the running of them. And together with the metallurgist

:17:10. > :17:14.Henry Schneider, these three became the founding fathers. They

:17:14. > :17:24.transformed this sleepy backwater into a boomtown. Britain's very own

:17:24. > :17:27.Chicago. With the railways now linking the peninsula with the rest

:17:27. > :17:31.of the country, the three men could bring in smelting coke and build

:17:31. > :17:36.their own iron and steel works. And while they had steel, why not build

:17:36. > :17:44.some ships? And thus, waves of people from all across the land

:17:44. > :17:48.were attracted to the booming town. They were coming from places you

:17:48. > :17:54.wouldn't expect. There was a great influx from Cornwall. The tin

:17:54. > :18:00.miners came up. Staffordshire iron workers came. Irish navvies to

:18:00. > :18:05.build the docks. And then, when the shipbuilding came, a lot of people

:18:05. > :18:08.came down from Glasgow. So it was from all over the country. I guess

:18:08. > :18:15.that made for a lively mix of people. It must have caused

:18:16. > :18:21.problems? It did, because they were mainly young men in their teens,

:18:22. > :18:31.twenties and thirties. Young men in the late 19th century are pretty

:18:32. > :18:32.

:18:32. > :18:41.much like young men are today. So it was pretty lively. Bez measures

:18:41. > :18:46.were taken by the city fathers to subdue the gentleman workers. For

:18:46. > :18:50.example, in 1867, they built a flax and jute works. It was to try to

:18:50. > :18:53.bring wives and children in to work in the flax and jute works. This

:18:53. > :18:56.also had an ulterior motive, of course, of keeping money in the

:18:56. > :18:59.town. Because these itinerant workers were sending money back to

:18:59. > :19:03.Belfast or Glasgow and Staffordshire. And the money was

:19:03. > :19:06.exiting the town and they wanted to keep it in the town. So it had a

:19:06. > :19:11.dual effect of subduing the male workforce and keeping the money in

:19:11. > :19:13.the town. In the 1860s and 1870s, Barrow would have resembled one

:19:13. > :19:20.massive construction site as the town's founding fathers built homes

:19:20. > :19:23.for the new workers. If people think this is reminiscent of

:19:23. > :19:30.Glaswegian tenement buildings, that's not a coincidence? Not a

:19:30. > :19:32.coincidence at all. The shipyard started in 1871. They were trying

:19:32. > :19:36.to encourage experienced shipbuilders to move to Barrow.

:19:36. > :19:45.They were from Scotland So they brought in architects who had built

:19:45. > :19:48.the tenements and Glasgow to build peace -- to build the East. --

:19:48. > :19:55.these. The railways may have transformed Barrow from a sleepy

:19:55. > :19:58.rural backwater to an industrial boomtown. But it was shipbuilding

:19:58. > :20:01.that put Barrow on the international map at a time when

:20:01. > :20:05.Britain was the most powerful trading nation in the world. The

:20:05. > :20:08.first ship out of the yard was the Duke of Devonshire. And the yard

:20:08. > :20:15.continued to build ships up until the First World War. At one stage,

:20:15. > :20:18.it employed a staggering 30,000 people. After the war, "the yard",

:20:18. > :20:21.as it's always been known, started building civilian as well as naval

:20:21. > :20:25.vessels. Launch days would be occasions of great pride and

:20:25. > :20:35.excitement. Children would be given the day off school. And there would

:20:35. > :20:38.

:20:38. > :20:45.usually be a royal on hand to name the ship. I name this ship Oriana.

:20:45. > :20:49.May God bless her and all who sail in her. In 1960, the Oriana was

:20:49. > :20:53.launched. It was one of the world's fastest and most recognisable ocean

:20:53. > :20:57.liners. It had a voyage time to Australia of three weeks instead of

:20:57. > :21:01.four. She was kitted out in ultra- modern style. Every detail has been

:21:01. > :21:11.designed by teams of architects and co-ordinated by a design team of

:21:11. > :21:14.perfect harmony. Here is they own television station. Closed circuit

:21:14. > :21:20.television throughout the voyage, net work programmes when the ship

:21:20. > :21:28.is in port. You have a choice of evening entertainment. The lush,

:21:28. > :21:34.plush cinema, or television in Ewing lounges and some cabins. --

:21:34. > :21:38.viewing lounges. The shipyard is still going strong. These days, it

:21:38. > :21:42.specialises in a rather different kind of boat - the submarine. It's

:21:42. > :21:44.incredible to think that the first submarines were built here in 1886.

:21:44. > :21:49.And the first Royal Navy submersibles were built here in

:21:49. > :21:58.1901. In 1960, Dreadnought - Britain's first ever nuclear-

:21:58. > :22:05.powered submarine - was launched here by The Queen. I name this ship

:22:05. > :22:11.grit not -- Dreadnought. Make God bless her and all who sail in her.

:22:11. > :22:14.CHEERING. Submarines, like Ambush of the astute class, are still

:22:14. > :22:18.built here in the great dock hall which bears the Duke of

:22:18. > :22:26.Devonshire's name. And there's still great pride in the

:22:26. > :22:33.achievements of the town. Joe Murphy has spent his entire working

:22:33. > :22:39.life as a welder at the yard. He came here as a boy of 15. When I

:22:39. > :22:45.was an apprentice, the Valiant was on one side. There would be a

:22:46. > :22:51.thousand-ton tanker. The British admiral on the other. On the big

:22:51. > :22:57.slip. We used to diversify and do all sorts of things like that. But

:22:57. > :23:02.mostly now, we concentrate on submarines. Prior to this, what

:23:03. > :23:06.would this have been? Outside on the berth, on all weathers. The

:23:06. > :23:12.tide would have been underneath you. A canvas to get behind while you

:23:12. > :23:18.were welding. And equally, you used to get inside the boat. It would be

:23:18. > :23:25.like a steel fridge. And cold inside. And look at this facility

:23:25. > :23:35.now. It's fantastic. Is it a source of pride that the Furness

:23:35. > :23:37.

:23:37. > :23:43.Peninsular is known all over the Yes. Everybody's proud of this spot.

:23:43. > :23:47.It's given me a good living. I have a son in here now. He's the fifth

:23:47. > :23:51.generation. That's five families that have been brought up on it.

:23:51. > :23:55.Can you imagine Barrow without a shipyard? Not at all. This is the

:23:56. > :24:05.lifeblood of this town. And we all depend on it. Hopefully, we'll be

:24:06. > :24:10.

:24:10. > :24:13.But the nature of the Yard's work hasn't been without controversy. In

:24:13. > :24:18.the 1980s, America and The Soviet Union were engaged in a nuclear

:24:18. > :24:21.arms race. Plans for Britain's Trident nuclear submarines, which

:24:21. > :24:24.were to be built in Barrow, were strongly opposed by The Campaign

:24:24. > :24:27.for Nuclear Disarmament. They held their national rally in Barrow in

:24:28. > :24:35.1984. Among the protesters were local activists Kate Blanshard and

:24:36. > :24:45.Norman Hill. I remember being absolutely amazed by the number of

:24:46. > :24:46.

:24:46. > :24:52.people. The car park down at Craven Park there. It was full. There were

:24:52. > :24:58.hundreds of people on the bridge. There was a die-in on the bridge

:24:58. > :25:03.where everyone lay down on the bridge. It was symbolic to show

:25:03. > :25:13.what would happen if a nuclear bomb went off. It would cause mass death

:25:13. > :25:15.

:25:15. > :25:20.and devastation. These are some of your badges? That was the classics

:25:20. > :25:26.Login, protest and survive, referencing the Government's

:25:26. > :25:34.campaign of Protect and survive, what to do it in a nuclear war.

:25:34. > :25:41.Hide under the nuclear table? other people from that era, I will

:25:41. > :25:51.not dive for Thatcher. And vegetarians against it. -- will not

:25:51. > :25:55.

:25:55. > :26:02.die. There was a broad coalition. Yes. What was the mood for people

:26:02. > :26:08.who did not support this? The Tory slogan was Trident means jobs. So

:26:08. > :26:18.people were going round repeating this parrot fashion. It was a good

:26:18. > :26:23.

:26:23. > :26:26.slogan. But we put our alternative view. We said, if Barrow puts all

:26:26. > :26:33.its eggs in one business, this removes all the opportunities for

:26:33. > :26:42.surface ship building. Civilian ship building. Yes. So there's a

:26:42. > :26:49.danger there. After this project, what are you going to be left with?

:26:49. > :26:52.The CND supporters, the shipyard workers. All have a part to play

:26:52. > :26:57.and a voice to be heard in a people's history, which is my

:26:58. > :27:05.favourite kind of history. And folk music, which I often like, often

:27:05. > :27:15.tell these kinds of stories and history through song. One's music

:27:15. > :27:54.

:27:54. > :28:04.all -- one person's music often # The simple life is all we knew #

:28:04. > :28:05.

:28:05. > :28:11.Before the ashes came falling... # The Furness will never be some

:28:11. > :28:18.people's idea of a perfect tourist destination. But the bleak and

:28:18. > :28:22.bracing beauty. The complex and sometimes turbulent history. And

:28:22. > :28:25.the way in which waves of people have made their mark here between