0:00:02 > 0:00:06Please note, we are currently unable to insert accents, etc,
0:00:06 > 0:00:08in the following subtitles.
0:00:21 > 0:00:23There are two Beijings -
0:00:23 > 0:00:2721st-century Beijing and Imperial Beijing -
0:00:27 > 0:00:30power base of the Chinese people for centuries.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34In this programme, finding your way around,
0:00:34 > 0:00:39from the city's smart boulevards to its magical palaces and temples.
0:00:39 > 0:00:42And a trip out of town to the Ming tombs,
0:00:42 > 0:00:44with tips on getting directions.
0:00:49 > 0:00:52In the centre of Beijing lies Tiananmen Square,
0:00:52 > 0:00:55the political heart of China.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58Here, on October the 1st, 1949,
0:00:58 > 0:01:02Chairman Mao proclaimed the founding of the People's Republic.
0:01:04 > 0:01:08Beijing is laid out like a grid, with the Square at the centre
0:01:08 > 0:01:13and major buildings commanding the four directions of the compass.
0:01:13 > 0:01:18This means North - the Gate of Heavenly Peace.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21South - Qianmen Gate.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27West - the Great Hall of the People.
0:01:28 > 0:01:34East - the Museum of Chinese History and Revolution.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36Since major streets are all signed
0:01:36 > 0:01:38with their orientation from the centre,
0:01:38 > 0:01:42knowing compass directions is a big help with finding your way.
0:01:44 > 0:01:48Chang'an Avenue - the city's most impressive boulevard.
0:01:48 > 0:01:53It runs east-west and some of the best hotels are to be found here.
0:01:55 > 0:01:57This means "hotel".
0:01:59 > 0:02:01"Where is...?"
0:02:06 > 0:02:09"Where is the Beijing Hotel?"
0:02:12 > 0:02:14"Over there."
0:02:18 > 0:02:20"The Beijing Hotel is over there."
0:02:35 > 0:02:37"On Chang'an Avenue East."
0:02:42 > 0:02:45The Forbidden City in the heart of Beijing
0:02:45 > 0:02:48is the best preserved group of ancient buildings in China.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52The Chinese refer to it as...
0:02:52 > 0:02:54"The Imperial Palace."
0:02:54 > 0:02:57The palace was the centre of the Middle Kingdom.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01For 600 years, it was completely off limits to ordinary people.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06This means "to go" or "to get to".
0:03:08 > 0:03:10"Excuse me...
0:03:12 > 0:03:17"..how do I get to the Imperial Palace?"
0:03:29 > 0:03:32"Go straight on."
0:03:32 > 0:03:35Yizhi - "Straight on."
0:03:37 > 0:03:38"Turn left."
0:03:38 > 0:03:40Zuo - "Left."
0:03:45 > 0:03:48"The palace is on your right."
0:03:48 > 0:03:51You - "Right."
0:04:01 > 0:04:05The palace is vast. It was home to two dynasties -
0:04:05 > 0:04:08the Ming and the Qing - altogether 24 emperors.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15The Ming Dynasty was the palace's heyday,
0:04:15 > 0:04:19with some 70,000 eunuchs serving the court.
0:04:19 > 0:04:22There were even royal elephants to be cared for.
0:04:24 > 0:04:27During the Qing Dynasty, libraries, temples,
0:04:27 > 0:04:31theatres and gardens were all built within the walls.
0:04:33 > 0:04:38When emperors and courtiers found the Forbidden City claustrophobic,
0:04:38 > 0:04:41they would take themselves to nearby Beihai Park -
0:04:41 > 0:04:45their exclusive watery playground.
0:04:49 > 0:04:54The 17th-century Buddhist Pagoda was built by the first Qing emperor,
0:04:54 > 0:04:57to commemorate a visit from the Dalai Lama.
0:04:57 > 0:05:02For today's visitors, there's a restaurant that serves
0:05:02 > 0:05:06imperial food in the park, if you can find it.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09"There is..."
0:05:11 > 0:05:15"Is there a restaurant round here?"
0:05:15 > 0:05:17Zheli - "Round here."
0:05:30 > 0:05:34The restaurant is on the island.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38"Go straight on."
0:05:40 > 0:05:42"Cross the bridge."
0:05:42 > 0:05:45Qiao - "Bridge."
0:05:47 > 0:05:49"Turn right."
0:05:54 > 0:05:57"The restaurant is on your left."
0:06:03 > 0:06:08Covered walkways and arches heavily decorated in imperial style
0:06:08 > 0:06:13are a feature of parks and beauty spots all over China.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18But for real tranquillity and a sense of the past,
0:06:18 > 0:06:21Beijing's temples are the places to seek out.
0:06:27 > 0:06:30Bai Yun Guan, the White Cloud Temple,
0:06:30 > 0:06:34is Northern China's leading centre for Daoism.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37MUSIC PLAYS
0:06:38 > 0:06:40THEY CHANT
0:06:43 > 0:06:46During China's Cultural Revolution in the 1960s,
0:06:46 > 0:06:50religious activity was suppressed, then everyone was expected
0:06:50 > 0:06:54to worship the Great Helmsman Chairman Mao.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59Since his death, the number of Daoist priests and nuns in China
0:06:59 > 0:07:02has grown to more than 25,000.
0:07:04 > 0:07:09Daoism is said to have been founded by the hermit figure, Lao Tzu,
0:07:09 > 0:07:12who lived around 500BC.
0:07:16 > 0:07:18Dao means "the way".
0:07:18 > 0:07:21The idea being that a subtle but mighty force
0:07:21 > 0:07:24gives form and life to all things.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33The goal of the believer is to embrace this flow of energy -
0:07:33 > 0:07:35physically and spiritually -
0:07:35 > 0:07:38and thus live a long and healthy life.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46IN TRANSLATION:
0:08:24 > 0:08:26Ordinary people in China
0:08:26 > 0:08:29found it hard to accept these metaphysical ideas
0:08:29 > 0:08:33and a popular form of Daoism emerged involving a host
0:08:33 > 0:08:37of deities and immortals and much superstition.
0:08:38 > 0:08:39Behave well,
0:08:39 > 0:08:42placate the spirit world
0:08:42 > 0:08:44and you'll be blessed with good fortune -
0:08:44 > 0:08:47especially if your coin hits its target.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49BELL RINGING
0:08:49 > 0:08:52Encounters with China's ancient belief systems
0:08:52 > 0:08:56can offer real insights in to Chinese ways.
0:08:56 > 0:09:02And Beijing's Confucius Museum - Guo Zi Jian - has much to offer.
0:09:06 > 0:09:08..Means I'm going to.
0:09:12 > 0:09:14I'm going to the Confucius Museum.
0:09:14 > 0:09:16How do I get there?
0:09:19 > 0:09:21SPEAKS IN CHINESE
0:09:31 > 0:09:34..Means turn left...
0:09:38 > 0:09:39..go straight on.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47The Confucius Museum is on your right.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52It's not very far.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59Confucianism is a philosophy, rather than a religion,
0:09:59 > 0:10:02that's deeply influenced Chinese culture.
0:10:03 > 0:10:09Confucius - K'ung-fu-tzu - was a disciple of the Daoist, Lao Tzu,
0:10:09 > 0:10:12and lived through a time of great social upheaval.
0:10:12 > 0:10:14The chaos he witnessed led him
0:10:14 > 0:10:18to preach the virtues of social harmony, hierarchy and learning.
0:10:18 > 0:10:23He's venerated as the founder of scholarly life in China.
0:10:24 > 0:10:26IN TRANSLATION:
0:10:52 > 0:10:56Confucius emphasised the importance of respect and obedience,
0:10:56 > 0:10:59from children to their parents and teachers,
0:10:59 > 0:11:01from subjects to their rulers
0:11:01 > 0:11:04and from rulers to the gods in heaven.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07The high value placed on law and order in China
0:11:07 > 0:11:10is rooted in Confucian beliefs.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19North of Beijing, lies a lush area of countryside
0:11:19 > 0:11:23which the Ming emperors chose as their burial ground.
0:11:25 > 0:11:29The monumental approach to the Ming tombs
0:11:29 > 0:11:30is known as The Spirit Way.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35It's lined with giant statues of animals, generals and officials -
0:11:35 > 0:11:38the guardians of the tombs.
0:12:00 > 0:12:03Thirteen emperors lie buried in this area,
0:12:03 > 0:12:06complete with their entourages,
0:12:06 > 0:12:09wives, concubines and funerary treasures.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13So far, only three tombs have been restored
0:12:13 > 0:12:14and are open to the public.
0:12:14 > 0:12:17Most are overgrown -
0:12:17 > 0:12:19their secrets concealed from view.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25These explorers are looking for Deling tomb
0:12:25 > 0:12:27which is still being restored.
0:12:27 > 0:12:31When the Chinese talk about distances,
0:12:31 > 0:12:35they use li rather than kilometres.
0:12:35 > 0:12:37One li is roughly half a kilometre.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46Is this the way to Deling tomb?
0:12:51 > 0:12:55THEY CONVERSE IN CHINESE
0:13:07 > 0:13:09Means go straight on.
0:13:13 > 0:13:14Turn right.
0:13:18 > 0:13:20Go to the end of the road.
0:13:24 > 0:13:26There's Deling tomb.
0:13:29 > 0:13:31It's not far.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37A massive project is underway to restore Deling
0:13:37 > 0:13:40and all of the tombs to their former splendour.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44The Chinese are keen for the Ming tombs to become
0:13:44 > 0:13:48a World Heritage Site, and it's true that the emperors chose well -
0:13:48 > 0:13:51few resting places can boast surroundings
0:13:51 > 0:13:54as magnificent as these.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk