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0:00:32 > 0:00:35- I'm on a journey through the world - of classical music...
0:00:35 > 0:00:40- ..visiting the locations where the - great composers lived and worked.
0:01:09 > 0:01:13- On our musical tour - of the classical greats...
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- ..we've reached - the medieval town of Regensburg.
0:01:19 > 0:01:22- Situated on the - northernmost point of the Danube...
0:01:22 > 0:01:26- ..Regensburg was a Roman fortress - during the second century.
0:01:26 > 0:01:30- By the Middle Ages - it became a thriving centre...
0:01:30 > 0:01:32- ..for commerce and religion.
0:01:32 > 0:01:37- The old Roman town is famed for its - Romanesque and Gothic buildings...
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- ..centred - in the old historic quarter.
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- With such diverse architecture - to view...
0:01:45 > 0:01:47- ..I can't wait to explore this town.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- Remarkably, this historic city...
0:01:52 > 0:01:57- ..avoided the bombing campaigns - which ravaged so many German towns.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05- We've already seen many - stunning churches on our journey...
0:02:06 > 0:02:11- ..but Regensburg's Gothic cathedral - is the paragon of an ancient church.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- Most of it was built over a - 25-year period in the 13th century.
0:02:15 > 0:02:18- The towers are later additions.
0:02:19 > 0:02:22- The builders - were eager to push the boundaries.
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- The surrounding buildings - are dwarfed...
0:02:26 > 0:02:30- ..by this cathedral which ascends - into the heavens to glorify God.
0:02:34 > 0:02:39- Interestingly, the city has changed - very little since the 13th century.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- The medieval bridge with its - 15 arches has remained intact...
0:03:01 > 0:03:03- ..since it was built - in the 12th century.
0:03:04 > 0:03:09- This original European stone bridge - is a renowned feature of the city.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16- The bridge lies in the centre - of the city and is worth seeing.
0:03:19 > 0:03:21- By the early 16th century...
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- ..Regensburg was one - of Germany's principal towns...
0:03:26 > 0:03:28- ..because of its grand buildings.
0:03:31 > 0:03:35- Regensburg has a remarkable history.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- The Old Town Hall is - another magnificent Gothic building.
0:03:40 > 0:03:45- It is here that the Reichstag - of the Holy Roman Empire convened...
0:03:45 > 0:03:49- ..for 150 years - from the mid-17th century onwards.
0:03:49 > 0:03:54- The iron rods embedded in the walls - are medieval measuring implements.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- The middle rod measures a foot, - the right, a yard...
0:03:58 > 0:04:02- ..and the iron rod on the left - was the emperor's height - a fathom.
0:04:02 > 0:04:06- These measuring standards - became known aptly as rulers.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09- The city - is also home to ancient abbeys...
0:04:10 > 0:04:12- ..which embody centuries of history.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17- To complicate matters...
0:04:17 > 0:04:20- ..three abbeys - operated as independent states...
0:04:21 > 0:04:22- ..within Regensburg...
0:04:23 > 0:04:25- ..one of which was St Emmeram.
0:04:25 > 0:04:27- Composer Joseph Haydn...
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- ..visited Regensburg - at the end of the 18th century...
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- ..on his way - to perform concerts in England.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- This piece - is taken from Symphony No 86.
0:04:37 > 0:04:42- A journey around St Emmeram is - like a tour through the centuries...
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- ..from the Middle Ages - to present day.
0:04:47 > 0:04:48- This is St Emmeram today.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- The abbey has since become - the palace of Thurn und Taxis...
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- ..and home to German nobility.
0:04:58 > 0:05:00- It remains the family residence...
0:05:01 > 0:05:04- ..of Princess Gloria - von Thurn und Taxis.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- It's claimed there are more rooms - here than at Buckingham Palace...
0:05:09 > 0:05:12- ..but I don't have time - to discover if that's true!
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- The original - Gothic cloister remains intact.
0:05:15 > 0:05:19- The saints of Emmeram and Wolfgang - are buried here...
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- ..along with emperors, Bavarian - noblemen and Regensburg's bishops.
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- There is a millennium's worth - of history in this cloister.
0:05:47 > 0:05:51- We are led through the centuries - on our tour of the palace...
0:05:51 > 0:05:54- ..which traces - the fascinating history...
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- ..of monks, missionaries - and aristocrats.
0:05:58 > 0:06:00- In the 16th century...
0:06:00 > 0:06:03- ..the family - was primarily responsible...
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- ..for developing the postal service - across Europe from Brussels...
0:06:08 > 0:06:10- ..to France, Spain, - Italy and Germany.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17- The Old Town has charm - and a sense of community.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20- There are also coffee houses.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22- It's heaven for tourists.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29- Bavaria is renowned - for being Germany's beer capital...
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- ..with half of its 1,200 breweries - located in this state.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- Many of them - are situated in Regensburg.
0:06:38 > 0:06:42- On the banks of the Danube - near the old stone bridge...
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- ..is where we find - one of Germany's oldest taverns.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51- In order to follow in the - footsteps of the great pioneers...
0:06:51 > 0:06:56- ..they say you should sample - the local beer and German sausage.
0:06:56 > 0:07:00- I'm told this is the perfect place - to sample that sausage.
0:07:02 > 0:07:03- Cheers!
0:07:07 > 0:07:09- Thank you.
0:07:11 > 0:07:12- Cheers.
0:07:17 > 0:07:22- This place, known as the - sausage kitchen, is 500 years old.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26- Little of it - has changed since the Middle Ages.
0:07:27 > 0:07:31- They make their own sausages, - prepare the sauerkraut...
0:07:31 > 0:07:34- ..and mix their own mustard here.
0:07:42 > 0:07:47- Believe me, on a good day - they can sell 6,000 sausages.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- Here are your sausages. - Enjoy your meal.
0:07:54 > 0:07:55- Thank you very much.
0:07:55 > 0:07:56- Thank you very much.- - With mustard.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01- Aren't you going to join me? - There's loads here! Thank you.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06- The Beethoven of sausages!
0:08:10 > 0:08:15- From Regensburg we head to - our next destination in Germany...
0:08:15 > 0:08:18- ..and the beautiful town of Bamberg.
0:08:18 > 0:08:22- Mozart travelled a great deal - through this part of Bavaria...
0:08:22 > 0:08:26- ..but his principal connection - with Regensburg...
0:08:26 > 0:08:31- ..was his librettist, - Emanuel Johann Joseph Schikaneder.
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- This impresario was a playwright, - actor, singer and composer.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39- He enjoyed - a successful theatrical career.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- He was the librettist of Mozart's - most famous opera, The Magic Flute.
0:08:44 > 0:08:47- A short journey along the river...
0:08:48 > 0:08:51- ..is the town - whose history is very different.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- It seems that every city we visit...
0:08:54 > 0:08:57- ..is more beautiful than the last...
0:08:57 > 0:08:59- ..but Bamberg is truly spectacular.
0:08:59 > 0:09:04- It is a miracle that it survived - WWII relatively unscathed.
0:09:04 > 0:09:08- The Old Town has been kept - in immaculate condition...
0:09:08 > 0:09:10- ..it is listed - as a World Heritage Site.
0:09:25 > 0:09:30- On the river Regnitz close to its - confluence with the river Main...
0:09:30 > 0:09:34- ..the city of Bamberg was founded - some time in the 10th century.
0:09:34 > 0:09:36- The Old Town Hall...
0:09:37 > 0:09:39- ..sits in between the two bridges.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43- The city views - are spectacular from the water.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48- Legend has it that the bishop - refused the people the land...
0:09:48 > 0:09:52- ..to build the town hall, - so they built it above the water.
0:10:04 > 0:10:09- Bamberg Cathedral stands in the - centre of an enormous town square...
0:10:09 > 0:10:12- ..making it easier - to appreciate its splendour.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17- Very few churches in Europe - are situated in such an open space.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21- The architecture is - of Romanesque and Gothic design.
0:10:27 > 0:10:31- The old courthouse - situated near the cathedral...
0:10:31 > 0:10:35- ..was the bishops' residence - before they became princes.
0:10:35 > 0:10:39- It is typical - of 15th-century architecture.
0:10:40 > 0:10:45- At the time, Bamberg - was part of the Holy Roman Empire.
0:10:45 > 0:10:49- The bishops were also princes - and they ruled the city.
0:10:50 > 0:10:52- They were extremely wealthy...
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- ..and like many German - and Austrian towns...
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- ..monumental buildings - were created from their wealth...
0:11:00 > 0:11:02- ..beginning with their homes.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15- Surprisingly, these two buildings - are merely extensions.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- A substantial rose garden - is part of the property too.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23- But the views across the city - create far more of an impact.
0:11:29 > 0:11:33- Bamberg is also famed - for its Rauchbier.
0:11:33 > 0:11:38- There are several breweries here - but far more beer houses.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44- Religion and beer thrived at the - same time in this part of the world.
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0:11:53 > 0:11:53- Subtitles
0:11:53 > 0:11:55- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:06 > 0:12:11- We're in Bamberg, Germany, - at its spacious concert hall...
0:12:11 > 0:12:14- ..known locally - as Sinfonie an der Regnitz.
0:12:14 > 0:12:19- Despite being a small city, this - hall is one of the world's greatest.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23- Germany is a renowned - classical music stronghold.
0:12:30 > 0:12:34- The hall is home to - Bamberg's symphony orchestra...
0:12:34 > 0:12:36- ..formed over 60 years ago.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- When the hall - was opened in the 1990s...
0:12:39 > 0:12:43- ..the first performance - was of Mahler's Symphony No.8...
0:12:43 > 0:12:47- ..which simply - can't be conducted in a small hall.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50- It's called - the Symphony of a Thousand...
0:12:50 > 0:12:54- ..because it was written - for a large orchestra...
0:12:54 > 0:12:57- ..along with a choir - of up to a thousand voices.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02- Mahler's aim was to create a great - sound to express great ideas.
0:13:02 > 0:13:07- What you see is the result of major - work carried out some years ago.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- It meant creating a new stage...
0:13:10 > 0:13:14- ..and scraping off all the varnish - to improve acoustics.
0:13:16 > 0:13:18- Yes, music is an art form...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21- ..but making it - worth listening to is a science.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- Little Venice is another - of the Old Town's main attractions.
0:13:28 > 0:13:32- It was merely a fishing village - during the Middle Ages.
0:13:32 > 0:13:36- The timber-framed houses - on the river makes fishing easy...
0:13:37 > 0:13:39- ..from any one of the balconies.
0:13:44 > 0:13:49- Situated in another part of - Little Venice is the old abattoir.
0:13:49 > 0:13:54- The facade - dates back to the 17th century.
0:13:54 > 0:13:59- It was built on the river so that - waste could be thrown into it.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- The crane - belongs to the old dock area...
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- ..to serve the trade ships - on the former canal.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- It's time - to bid farewell to Bamberg...
0:14:11 > 0:14:15- ..and take a short journey - to another destination.
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- Nuremberg was founded - in the 11th century...
0:14:27 > 0:14:32- ..but it is widely known - for the events of last century.
0:14:35 > 0:14:39- It was customary for Germans - in the Middle Ages...
0:14:39 > 0:14:43- ..to build castles - around which towns would develop.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48- Nuremberg's imposing castle - is the Imperial Castle.
0:14:48 > 0:14:52- Spectacular views of the city - can be seen from it.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54- The red rooftops - are very attractive.
0:14:55 > 0:14:59- Nuremberg was established as - a fort to safeguard trade routes...
0:14:59 > 0:15:01- ..which included the river.
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- It became a major trade centre - and the site of the first senate...
0:15:05 > 0:15:08- ..from the 15th century - until the 18th century.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11- The Crown Jewels were kept here.
0:15:11 > 0:15:14- It was a golden era - in German history.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Although its political importance - began to wane in the 19th century...
0:15:22 > 0:15:26- ..Nuremberg was still - a cultural and historical icon...
0:15:27 > 0:15:31- ..which influenced its standing - in 20th-century history.
0:15:33 > 0:15:37- This pleasant square was once - Nuremberg's old marketplace.
0:15:40 > 0:15:45- Trading happens daily and many - of the city's attractions are here.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56- It's hard to miss the decorative - tower in the town square...
0:15:56 > 0:15:58- ..which is a fountain.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06- Our Lady's Church - was erected seven centuries ago...
0:16:07 > 0:16:09- ..and has recently been restored.
0:16:09 > 0:16:14- The church is a good example - of the city's religious history.
0:16:14 > 0:16:18- Originally Protestant, - the Catholics took it over...
0:16:18 > 0:16:22- ..when Nuremberg yielded - to the Bavarians in 1806.
0:16:23 > 0:16:27- The area is renowned - for its spicy gingerbread, nuts...
0:16:28 > 0:16:30- ..and sugar-coated fruit...
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- ..which traditionally - was only eaten at Christmas.
0:16:39 > 0:16:44- Nuremberg's long history is palpable - at St Johannis Church Cemetery.
0:16:47 > 0:16:52- These gravestones are a perfect - example of history through the ages.
0:16:53 > 0:16:57- Among the dead, - life is represented...
0:16:58 > 0:17:00- ..by numerous rose bushes.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- That is why - it is aptly named Rose Cemetery.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- Anyone of any importance...
0:17:06 > 0:17:08- ..has been buried here...
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- ..including the renowned - German painter Albrecht Durer.
0:17:14 > 0:17:20- St Johannis Church is remarkable - for surviving the ruin of WWII.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23- It was the only church - to remain intact...
0:17:23 > 0:17:27- ..and is a remarkable example - of ancient architecture.
0:17:37 > 0:17:41- Nuremberg - is characteristically German...
0:17:41 > 0:17:44- ..which is why Hitler - and his Nazi Party were drawn here.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50- It was here - that he held his major rallies.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54- The city served as an - important centre for the Nazi Party.
0:17:54 > 0:17:58- Military weapons - were also manufactured here.
0:17:59 > 0:18:01- Nuremberg paid the price...
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- ..by becoming the target - for Britain's bombs.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08- In one raid, - 90% of the city was demolished.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- The Nazis had more ambitious plans - for this city.
0:18:13 > 0:18:18- Only part of the rally ground - was built, which is chilling enough.
0:18:18 > 0:18:23- It's a taste of what might - have happened if the Nazis had won.
0:18:23 > 0:18:26- I felt - awfully uncomfortable here.
0:18:26 > 0:18:31- They had intended building a stadium - to hold 400,000 people...
0:18:31 > 0:18:35- ..along with a field for - the Zeppelin and a military base.
0:18:36 > 0:18:41- This enormous congress hall - was based on the Colosseum's design.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- The place has since been - turned into a playing field.
0:18:53 > 0:18:57- Nearby is a stadium - which was built for the World Cup.
0:18:57 > 0:19:01- The area in front of Hitler's - platform is now a car racing grid.
0:19:05 > 0:19:10- It's interesting that there is - no respect for the former site.
0:19:11 > 0:19:13- The world...
0:19:13 > 0:19:16- ..is now free to move forward.
0:19:17 > 0:19:20- The Documentation Centre - offers a chance to reflect.
0:19:20 > 0:19:25- It is purposely modern and the aim - of its dramatic architecture...
0:19:25 > 0:19:30- ..is to send a symbolic spear - through the congress hall...
0:19:30 > 0:19:32- ..and Nazism.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- It houses an exhibition...
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- ..which conveys a person's fear - and loathing about coming here.
0:19:48 > 0:19:53- It's a true representation of what - happened to Germany under Hitler...
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- ..and the consequences of that.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- They make no excuses.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- They're ensuring that such treachery - will never happen again...
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- ..as WWII - sinks further away in history.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- When the war ended, - Nuremberg was symbolically chosen...
0:20:19 > 0:20:22- ..as the location - for the atrocities of war trials...
0:20:23 > 0:20:25- ..which were held - in this courthouse.
0:20:26 > 0:20:31- Chief US Prosecutor Robert H Jackson - concisely detailed the reasons...
0:20:31 > 0:20:33- ..why the trials - should be conducted.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- "The wrongs which we seek - to condemn and punish...
0:20:37 > 0:20:41- "..have been so calculated, - so malignant and so devastating...
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- "..that civilization cannot tolerate - their being ignored...
0:20:45 > 0:20:49- "..because it cannot survive - their being repeated."
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- The Palace of Justice - was undamaged by WWII.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00- It was one of the few places - in Germany...
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- ..where such a complicated trial - could be conducted.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08- There were 80 courtrooms - and more than 500 offices.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11- There was a prison nearby too.
0:21:11 > 0:21:13- In August 1945...
0:21:13 > 0:21:16- ..the Americans - took over the building.
0:21:28 > 0:21:30- Being here - is an astounding experience...
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- ..but a clear message is conveyed.
0:21:33 > 0:21:36- Atrocities against humanity - will never be forgotten.
0:21:39 > 0:21:45- The trials of the chief Nazi leaders - took place in courtroom number 600.
0:21:45 > 0:21:47- It still functions as a court...
0:21:47 > 0:21:51- ..and was in session - the day we were filming.
0:21:51 > 0:21:56- Looking at the locked doors - was an unsavoury experience.
0:22:00 > 0:22:05- The prosecution began - on 20th November, 1945.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- The judges came from America, - Russia, Britain and France.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13- As many as 280 witnesses - were questioned...
0:22:13 > 0:22:16- ..and it took two days - to announce the sentences.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- The Nuremberg Trials - were the basis...
0:22:19 > 0:22:24- ..for founding the International - Court of Justice in The Hague.
0:22:35 > 0:22:38- I can almost hear - the marching boots out here.
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- But the other sound people - would have heard at these rallies...
0:22:43 > 0:22:48- ..was the music of Hitler's - favourite composer, Richard Wagner.
0:22:53 > 0:22:56- The connection - did Wagner no favours...
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- ..but he was also a man - with extreme views.
0:22:59 > 0:23:04- He's certainly one of classical - music's more complex characters.
0:23:06 > 0:23:10- We will visit Bayreuth - in the next episode...
0:23:10 > 0:23:15- ..and explore the life of Richard - Wagner and his famous opera house.
0:23:15 > 0:23:17- I hope you can join me.
0:23:45 > 0:23:47- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:47 > 0:23:48- .