0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:02 > 0:00:05- Ty Drwg Studio, Cardiff
0:00:06 > 0:00:09- # I haven't looked in your eyes #
0:00:10 > 0:00:12- I'm Amlyn Parry. I'm a musician.
0:00:12 > 0:00:18- Ten years ago, I worked as a music - teacher in Papua New Guinea.
0:00:19 > 0:00:21- # I'll come to see you again
0:00:22 > 0:00:23- # To listen to your song #
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- Now, I'm travelling back.
0:00:28 > 0:00:33- I hope to document the journey - by recording songs with the people.
0:00:33 > 0:00:37- # The sea isn't deep enough - to stop me coming back #
0:00:38 > 0:00:41- Music can bring people together.
0:00:42 > 0:00:45- I'll record old and new friends...
0:00:45 > 0:00:49- ..in some of the most amazing - locations on the planet.
0:00:52 > 0:00:53- My name's Ami.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13- I was nineteen, ten years ago.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- Through the VSO charity...
0:01:16 > 0:01:21- ..I became head teacher of a music - school in a very remote area.
0:01:26 > 0:01:31- This is Papua New Guinea, - just north of Australia.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- I lived here in Kundiawa, - in Chimbu province.
0:01:37 > 0:01:41- Before starting the project, - we had to build the school.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- By the end of the year, - by playing and sharing music...
0:01:46 > 0:01:50- ..I was fluent in the language - and part of the society.
0:01:52 > 0:01:57- I haven't been there for ten years. - It's time to go back.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00- I want to go there - to create music...
0:02:00 > 0:02:03- ..and listen - to other people's music...
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- ..to take part, travel - from place to place and record.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- Back in Wales, technology - is available for everyone.
0:02:13 > 0:02:16- But it isn't true - in Papua New Guinea.
0:02:16 > 0:02:19- A chance to record music is rare.
0:02:19 > 0:02:24- I'm really looking forward to making - a collection of recordings there.
0:02:32 > 0:02:34- Papua New Guinea - is very mountainous.
0:02:35 > 0:02:37- Most of it is tropical rainforest.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- The rough terrain - and difficulties in travelling...
0:02:42 > 0:02:44- ..created isolated populations.
0:02:44 > 0:02:48- Almost every valley - has a culture and identity.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51- Although only - seven million live here...
0:02:51 > 0:02:54- ..there are more than 800 languages.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- That's 12% of the world's languages.
0:02:59 > 0:03:04- The only way to get to the country - is via the capital, Port Moresby.
0:03:04 > 0:03:09- It's totally different - from the rest of Papua New Guinea.
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- There's concrete and some money. - It has a population of 250,000.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- You live here. Can you - tell us what your life is like?
0:03:20 > 0:03:22- There are 90 provinces.
0:03:22 > 0:03:24- People move to the city...
0:03:25 > 0:03:27- ..from all over the country.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29- We're a mixture here.
0:03:29 > 0:03:34- But with all the different - people flooding to the city...
0:03:34 > 0:03:38- ..it has a name for being one of - the world's most dangerous places.
0:03:39 > 0:03:44- After one night, we're back in the - plane, on our way to Milne Bay...
0:03:45 > 0:03:50- ..to learn about the culture - of the people who live on the coast.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- We're in the small - village of Bibiko.
0:04:00 > 0:04:02- The community has taken us in.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04- Thank you very much.
0:04:04 > 0:04:06- Everyone is friendly.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10- It's a great place. - The sea is only 100 metres away.
0:04:10 > 0:04:16- There's dense jungle all around. - It's a very interesting place.
0:04:18 > 0:04:19- What's the name?
0:04:19 > 0:04:20- Limako.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- Limako, a domesticated flying fox.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- Unfortunately, we haven't - come across music yet.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- There aren't instruments - in this village.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- But we hope to go round...
0:04:37 > 0:04:39- ..and see what nearby villages have.
0:04:41 > 0:04:42- Good afternoon!
0:04:43 > 0:04:44- How are you?
0:04:46 > 0:04:49- Do you play music, - guitar, or anything?
0:04:50 > 0:04:51- No.
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- I'm doing a small music project. - I have music recording equipment.
0:04:59 > 0:05:04- If you know someone - who would like to record a little...
0:05:04 > 0:05:10- ..I'm staying here and would be glad - to hear local Milne Bay music.
0:05:11 > 0:05:12- OK.
0:05:12 > 0:05:13- Thank you.
0:05:13 > 0:05:14- Have a good day.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24- Recording is one of the things - I most enjoy about making music.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26- It might sound a bit pretentious.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- But I like listening back - to my own music sometimes.
0:05:31 > 0:05:32- Not always.
0:05:32 > 0:05:37- But sometimes, it takes you back - to the time you created that music.
0:05:38 > 0:05:42- It's like a cameraman taking photos.
0:05:42 > 0:05:47- I've brought recording equipment. - I can listen to the music again.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- If you know anybody - who likes to make music...
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- ..we can record them if they want.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58- From my experience in Papua New - Guinea, everybody likes music.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- Although I put out a message, - I'm starting to worry.
0:06:05 > 0:06:09- Time is scarce to develop - a relationship with musicians.
0:06:10 > 0:06:15- I can't stick a mic in someone's - face and expect them to perform.
0:06:17 > 0:06:19- Luck clearly isn't with me...
0:06:19 > 0:06:23- ..at the country's - most easterly peninsula.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- The sea is too rough to take - a boat to an island, as I'd hoped.
0:06:29 > 0:06:31- I'm stuck here for the afternoon.
0:06:32 > 0:06:37- But dozens are in the same boat. - There's a lot of buying and selling.
0:06:37 > 0:06:41- The fish look good! - How much is this one?
0:06:46 > 0:06:48- That's 60 pence. Let's buy it.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- We saw a bat, a flying fox.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- I didn't know you could eat them.
0:07:00 > 0:07:02- I don't know if I want to.
0:07:02 > 0:07:04- I'll have a go.
0:07:22 > 0:07:24- It's not bad, it's nice.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26- It's nicer than it looks.
0:07:29 > 0:07:32- It could do with a few spices.
0:07:33 > 0:07:35- Tomato sauce.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- Chewing buai nuts is also - popular all over the country.
0:07:41 > 0:07:42- I'll chew a bit.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46- It's mixed with lime - and a mustard stick.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- When I was here before, - I chewed all the time.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54- I don't as much, now I'm older.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00- These three together - are a fairly strong stimulant.
0:08:01 > 0:08:03- It makes you very sociable.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07- Unfortunately, there's no music yet.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10- But I'm confident - we'll find some soon.
0:08:11 > 0:08:12- Cross fingers...
0:08:12 > 0:08:14- ..we'll find some soon.
0:08:21 > 0:08:24- After a good night's sleep - and wash in the river...
0:08:24 > 0:08:26- ..our luck starts to change.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- We've had a message to look for a - man called Kamilo by the main road.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36- The music kit is on my back.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- We're going to see - if anyone is home.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43- I've just seen - a bloke with a guitar.
0:08:43 > 0:08:45- That's promising.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49- Let's go. He's there.
0:08:51 > 0:08:52- How are you?
0:08:52 > 0:08:53- How are you?- - Yes.
0:08:53 > 0:08:54- Good. My name's Ami.
0:08:54 > 0:08:55- Good. My name's Ami.- - Jerry.
0:08:55 > 0:08:57- Nice to meet you. How are you?
0:08:57 > 0:08:58- Nice to meet you. How are you?- - Fine.
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- Nice to see you have a guitar. - We are looking for music people.
0:09:04 > 0:09:05- How are you? Nice to meet you.
0:09:05 > 0:09:06- How are you? Nice to meet you.- - Nice to meet you too.
0:09:07 > 0:09:09- You said the name of your band is?
0:09:09 > 0:09:11- Bay Sounds.
0:09:12 > 0:09:13- Bay Sounds.
0:09:13 > 0:09:18- The music in Alotau, Milne Bay, - what sort of music do you have here?
0:09:18 > 0:09:20- In Milne Bay, local style.
0:09:21 > 0:09:22- OK.
0:09:30 > 0:09:31- So it's like fingerpicking.
0:09:31 > 0:09:32- So it's like fingerpicking.- - Yes.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- They don't know this - in the highlands.
0:09:36 > 0:09:41- The Fijians, Samoans, Tongans - brought music from the Pacific...
0:09:41 > 0:09:45- ..when the first missionaries - came to Papua New Guinea.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48- Did the missionaries - come with guitars?
0:09:49 > 0:09:51- The first time - people played guitars.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- When you play the guitar...
0:09:54 > 0:09:57- ..this is how - you were taught to start with.
0:09:57 > 0:10:00- The Tongans mostly play this type.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06- Do you have a song? - Can you play something for us?
0:10:08 > 0:10:09- SINGS
0:10:39 > 0:10:40- Nice!
0:10:42 > 0:10:43- Thank you.
0:10:44 > 0:10:45- Thank you.
0:10:45 > 0:10:46- This one a love song?
0:10:46 > 0:10:48- Yes, it's a love song, mainly.
0:10:48 > 0:10:49- Yes, it's a love song, mainly.- - Yeah!
0:10:50 > 0:10:51- In the local language?
0:10:51 > 0:10:53- In the local language?- - Yes, in the Suau language.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- I have in here - some recording equipment.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04- If you want a solo song, I can do.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06- If not, don't worry.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09- Not today. - When you go, I'll come back.
0:11:09 > 0:11:10- So when you go, contact me.
0:11:10 > 0:11:11- So when you go, contact me.- - OK.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14- Shall I show you how I play?
0:11:14 > 0:11:15- Of course.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35- # The morning dew turns damp
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- # A drunk lad - at the end of his journey
0:11:40 > 0:11:42- # He won't wake up yet #
0:11:43 > 0:11:44- I've got a CD for you.
0:11:44 > 0:11:46- It's my band from home.
0:11:46 > 0:11:47- It's a full band?
0:11:47 > 0:11:48- It's a full band?- - Yeah.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- It's just a little gift.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53- Thank you very much.
0:11:53 > 0:11:55- Thank you for having us.
0:11:56 > 0:11:57- Thank you.
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- Great. It went quite well.
0:12:01 > 0:12:05- It taught us a lot - about the local music.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10- At least we've had some music. - We haven't recorded yet.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13- But we had a bit of insight. - I'm happy. Ideal.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- It's coming together.
0:12:15 > 0:12:16- .
0:12:20 > 0:12:20- Subtitles
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:23 > 0:12:28- I'm leaving the coast of Papua - New Guinea to see old friends...
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- ..in the country's highlands.
0:12:30 > 0:12:31- From the air...
0:12:32 > 0:12:36- ..it's hard to believe that so many - people live in these mountains.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41- Almost every valley - has its own language and culture.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- I know from ten years ago...
0:12:43 > 0:12:48- ..that tension and fighting - between families or clans is common.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- As we approach - the Kundiawa area where I lived...
0:12:53 > 0:12:56- ..I hope nothing bad has happened...
0:12:56 > 0:13:01- ..and I'll find musicians who trust - me and will record with me.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- Hey!
0:13:09 > 0:13:11- Come, brother!
0:13:11 > 0:13:12- LAUGHTER
0:13:15 > 0:13:20- It's very emotional to be back. - It's very nice to see everyone.
0:13:20 > 0:13:22- I find it hard to believe.
0:13:22 > 0:13:25- Everyone seems to be happy I'm back.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28- We always have a crowd following us.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- Are you OK?
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- The welcome here is amazing.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37- They're the type of people - who take you in. They're open.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- They want to look after you.
0:13:41 > 0:13:42- Pastor!
0:13:44 > 0:13:48- But the people who looked after me - most when I was here...
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- ..was Pastor Peter's family.
0:13:52 > 0:13:55- Seeing them again - felt like coming home.
0:13:55 > 0:14:00- I want to thank you for looking - after me so well last time.
0:14:02 > 0:14:04- You were my son, so I had no choice.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08- Amlyn, you're fat. You've changed!
0:14:10 > 0:14:11- I'm not fat!
0:14:11 > 0:14:13- You're fat! I say you're fat!
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- No, you haven't changed. - You've stayed the same!
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- I was introduced to a village girl.
0:14:21 > 0:14:25- I had a surprise - when I heard her name.
0:14:28 > 0:14:30- Have you had my name?
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- Have you heard about me?
0:14:34 > 0:14:35- Yes.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39- Her father was a student - in the music school.
0:14:40 > 0:14:42- He named a child after me!
0:14:42 > 0:14:43- I didn't know.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- It's a bit of a shock.
0:14:50 > 0:14:55- It's nice to see that - some things haven't changed much.
0:14:55 > 0:15:00- Music is still a part of daily life. - Someone always has a guitar.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- Ten years ago, when I came - to help start the music school...
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- ..it was very important - that the school was for everyone.
0:15:13 > 0:15:19- People of any age or clan could make - music together near the River Wahgi.
0:15:21 > 0:15:23- The school was one man's vision.
0:15:24 > 0:15:26- He is the local clan chief.
0:15:26 > 0:15:28- Not many men in the highlands...
0:15:28 > 0:15:32- ..are as educated and speak - English as well as he does.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35- This is Thomas Tumun.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37- I call him Papa.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40- He's the community leader.
0:15:40 > 0:15:44- He's an important man. - He gave me an opportunity.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48- You gave me that opportunity - to be in your music school.
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- It was down to your vision. - How did that idea come about?
0:15:53 > 0:15:57- Let me first shake your hand, - for coming back.
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- You turned out to be, - not just from Wales...
0:16:01 > 0:16:03- ..and not just here - to teach music...
0:16:04 > 0:16:06- ..but you became part of my family.
0:16:06 > 0:16:11- I really appreciated and treasured - this relationship we've had.
0:16:11 > 0:16:13- Thank you for coming back.
0:16:13 > 0:16:14- Thank you for coming back.- - Thank you.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17- Shall we go and sit down - and have a chat?
0:16:17 > 0:16:19- We'll go over there.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23- So this is Mamma Josephine's house?
0:16:24 > 0:16:26- Yes. I have two wives.
0:16:27 > 0:16:29- This is Josephine's house.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33- That's where you are staying, - Mamma Evelyn's house.
0:16:33 > 0:16:34- So your second wife.
0:16:35 > 0:16:36- Yes.
0:16:36 > 0:16:37- OK.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42- So the Wahgi is very close.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- I've always appreciated - living beside the river.
0:16:46 > 0:16:48- You can do a lot of things here.
0:16:48 > 0:16:52- Since I lived here, they adopted - me as well, as Ami Wahgi.
0:16:52 > 0:16:53- Yes.
0:16:53 > 0:16:58- We decided to give you this name - because you were a newcomer.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- You are Ami - and you lived beside the Wahgi.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- It was fitting that we called - you that name, Ami Wahgi.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- It's easier to pronounce than Amlyn.
0:17:09 > 0:17:14- So when I came here first of all, - it was a big culture shock for me.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17- In my country, - we have a different way of life.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20- People took me in - as a brother or as a son.
0:17:23 > 0:17:27- Although I was very young - at the time, people trusted me.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32- The responsibility of trying - to create a curriculum...
0:17:32 > 0:17:35- ..and running the project - was very valuable.
0:17:38 > 0:17:43- Some students came together to - create a band and record an album.
0:17:43 > 0:17:47- Some of their songs went very high - in this country's charts.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51- So if you're asking - if you did a good job...
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- ..the result speaks for itself.
0:17:58 > 0:17:59- Old fellow!
0:18:01 > 0:18:06- The school was also important - to create a bridge between clans...
0:18:06 > 0:18:09- ..on both sides of the River Wahgi.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- But a year after I left, - the money stopped.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15- The school had to close.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- I'm going to the other - side of the Wahgi now...
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- ..to see the lads from the school.
0:18:31 > 0:18:33- We're going to record some music.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42- This is Afo Bernard, selling bruce.
0:18:42 > 0:18:43- Bruce.
0:18:43 > 0:18:45- Tobacco. That's his job.
0:18:45 > 0:18:47- So he sits all day.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- I'm a businessman.
0:18:50 > 0:18:51- Luke too.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54- He was another student.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59- When you walk through the area...
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- ..instruments appear - out of the blue.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- The keyboard runs on solar power.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- That's the solar panel - and that's the keyboard.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- It was no trouble - persuading these lads to record.
0:19:15 > 0:19:19- But choosing the right place - is important for atmosphere.
0:19:22 > 0:19:26- We're going - to make music here today.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29- I don't think - you'll find a better studio.
0:19:30 > 0:19:32- Look at that great view.
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- They want to show their area. - They said it's a nice place.
0:19:39 > 0:19:40- It looks fine.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45- I just hope it doesn't rain - and spoil the electronic stuff.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51- An opportunity to record - songs is very rare in the area.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55- It's obvious, - with excitement all around.
0:19:55 > 0:20:00- This was one of the main reasons - I wanted to do the project.
0:20:00 > 0:20:04- Children, stand behind me. - When I record, you can't talk.
0:20:04 > 0:20:07- Keyboard, can you put it here?
0:20:07 > 0:20:11- If it's too close to the microphone, - it will be too loud.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- We must have a kind of level.
0:20:17 > 0:20:22- Fair play, he's going to hold - the branch to give me some shade.
0:20:26 > 0:20:27- OK.
0:20:28 > 0:20:32- I'm going to start recording. - It's turning.
0:20:32 > 0:20:33- When you're ready, you can start.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- When you're ready, you can start.- - OK. Ten seconds.
0:20:50 > 0:20:52- SINGS
0:21:43 > 0:21:44- Yeah!
0:21:48 > 0:21:50- Oh, boys, that was good!
0:21:51 > 0:21:52- Thank you.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58- Happy? I think it sounds great.
0:21:58 > 0:21:59- Happy? I think it sounds great.- - Yes.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- The lads had the idea.
0:22:04 > 0:22:10- I thought I'd come back with stuff - and record them in their village.
0:22:10 > 0:22:13- We've just done - exactly what I wanted.
0:22:13 > 0:22:14- I'm very happy.
0:22:15 > 0:22:17- It's ideal.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- Can I ask what music means to you?
0:22:26 > 0:22:29- We sing about the trees and land...
0:22:32 > 0:22:35- ..about our rivers and mountains.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- We also sing and call out - different birds' names.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- We sing about things like that.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48- One of the reasons I came back - was to make recordings on location.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51- Now I've done one. I'm very happy!
0:22:52 > 0:22:53- Thank you.
0:22:56 > 0:22:57- I'm happy.
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- We've done a bit of recording.
0:23:00 > 0:23:04- I've seen so many people - and been to amazing places.
0:23:04 > 0:23:06- But I also wanted to make music.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09- We've started. I'm happy.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- I don't have to worry - about crossing the river.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22- But Afo Bernard and Luke - from the band I just recorded...
0:23:22 > 0:23:24- ..wouldn't dare come here.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27- They belong to a different clan.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- I'm going for a walk - with some village lads...
0:23:31 > 0:23:35- ..all the way through our clan's - land to the southern boundary...
0:23:36 > 0:23:38- ..on top of Calin Mountain.
0:23:38 > 0:23:41- I feel totally - at home and safe here.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46- But some young lads I knew - aren't here any more.
0:23:46 > 0:23:48- They were killed.
0:23:48 > 0:23:52- Sadly, they used to fight, - with bows and arrows.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54- Now, they use guns.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- That's Madmad.
0:24:00 > 0:24:04- When someone dies...
0:24:04 > 0:24:07- ..they put up a memorial.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11- Like many young men, he was shot.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- His name was Bangi.
0:24:17 > 0:24:20- Families fight, - then they become clans.
0:24:21 > 0:24:23- They speak different languages...
0:24:24 > 0:24:27- ..even on opposite sides - of the river.
0:24:27 > 0:24:30- I know people from both sides.
0:24:30 > 0:24:32- I'm a free man.
0:24:32 > 0:24:34- Everyone is happy to talk to me.
0:24:35 > 0:24:38- They don't always get along.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49- It didn't take long - to find another young casualty.
0:24:50 > 0:24:53- They were fighting each other again.
0:24:57 > 0:25:01- Shall we go?
0:25:02 > 0:25:06- Clan tensions go back many years.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09- It's a complex situation.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13- The lads were happy - to talk about it.
0:25:14 > 0:25:17- Is there a lot of fighting?
0:25:17 > 0:25:22- Are people being killed - and houses set on fire?
0:25:22 > 0:25:25- Yes, houses are being torched.
0:25:25 > 0:25:27- With what do you fight?
0:25:27 > 0:25:28- Guns.
0:25:29 > 0:25:30- You have guns?
0:25:30 > 0:25:31- You have guns?- - Yes.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36- When you move around, - do you sometimes get scared?
0:25:37 > 0:25:38- Yes.
0:25:38 > 0:25:42- When our wives and children - are sleeping...
0:25:42 > 0:25:47- ..big men like Mondo - stand guard until daylight...
0:25:48 > 0:25:53- ..to prevent them - coming in and killing us.
0:25:54 > 0:25:56- It's hard to believe...
0:25:56 > 0:26:00- ..that these kind, - friendly people...
0:26:00 > 0:26:02- ..who are so happy...
0:26:03 > 0:26:08- ..but there's always - trouble between them.
0:26:08 > 0:26:11- There are fights and killings, too.
0:26:11 > 0:26:14- I can't imagine that.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17- Unfortunately, that's the way it is.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21- SINGING
0:26:27 > 0:26:31- Hey, Mondo. What do the words mean?
0:26:31 > 0:26:36- It's a song about this mountain...
0:26:37 > 0:26:41- ..and about the snow - that's sometimes on the summit.
0:26:42 > 0:26:44- That's why we sing this song.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46- Let's try singing it again.
0:26:48 > 0:26:50- SINGING
0:26:53 > 0:26:56- Music can help communities.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59- It certainly helped this community.
0:27:00 > 0:27:03- When we opened the school...
0:27:03 > 0:27:09- ..youngsters from different clans - came together to play music.
0:27:09 > 0:27:14- There was no fighting for a while, - because of the school.
0:27:15 > 0:27:17- SINGING
0:27:22 > 0:27:26- We walked to the holy stone - on the summit.
0:27:26 > 0:27:30- Years ago, people came here - to decorate themselves...
0:27:30 > 0:27:33- ..before a fight, festival or dance.
0:27:34 > 0:27:39- When a lot of people gather...
0:27:39 > 0:27:43- ..everyone wants - to sing and shout together.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47- I'll climb the rock - so we can sing out loud.
0:27:49 > 0:27:53- SINGS LONG NOTE
0:27:58 > 0:27:59- .
0:28:02 > 0:28:02- Subtitles
0:28:02 > 0:28:04- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:28:09 > 0:28:12- There's a party to celebrate - we're here.
0:28:13 > 0:28:17- A lot of people will come, - and those we're making music with.
0:28:18 > 0:28:22- I have a lot of work to do first. - I'd better get a move on.
0:28:27 > 0:28:31- They don't eat this sort of food - every day.
0:28:31 > 0:28:35- It's special occasion food.
0:28:35 > 0:28:40- They're thanking us for coming. It's - nice they think so highly of us.
0:28:40 > 0:28:45- It's a big thing - that they slaughtered a pig.
0:28:47 > 0:28:49- I hope he gets it first time.
0:29:02 > 0:29:04- He's dead.
0:29:08 > 0:29:12- Back in my country, - many children your age...
0:29:12 > 0:29:16- ..don't know where bacon comes from!
0:29:17 > 0:29:22- They think the meat - comes from a packet!
0:29:24 > 0:29:28- It's amazing how close - I feel to the food.
0:29:29 > 0:29:31- They are all butchers.
0:29:32 > 0:29:35- I had a chance, too, with a python.
0:29:36 > 0:29:40- Put its head on the wood, - and hit it three times.
0:29:41 > 0:29:43- Right children, move!
0:29:48 > 0:29:50- Amlyn has got it!
0:29:50 > 0:29:54- If you're prepared to eat it, - you may as well kill it.
0:29:56 > 0:29:59- Who would think snake soup - is this simple?
0:29:59 > 0:30:03- It's just tomatoes, - ginger and onions.
0:30:05 > 0:30:09- While the food is being cooked, - it's time for a bath.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14- The feast is worth seeing.
0:30:14 > 0:30:18- The food presentation - might not win Masterchef.
0:30:19 > 0:30:22- But first, the speeches.
0:30:22 > 0:30:25- I'm so happy you're here.
0:30:25 > 0:30:28- You are not like other white men.
0:30:28 > 0:30:33- They come in their big cars, - steal our land to get the gold.
0:30:33 > 0:30:38- You're not like that. You understand - our ways. You're a good man.
0:30:38 > 0:30:42- It is nice to hear their speeches.
0:30:42 > 0:30:45- Taking out my recording kit...
0:30:45 > 0:30:49- ..was the perfect end - to the perfect day.
0:30:50 > 0:30:52- They've given me this.
0:30:53 > 0:30:56- Now they're - showing me their pipe skills.
0:30:57 > 0:30:59- OK, go for it!
0:30:59 > 0:31:00- PIPES
0:31:25 > 0:31:28- We're going to the new chapel.
0:31:29 > 0:31:33- We're recording - the congregation singing.
0:31:37 > 0:31:42- White men brought religion - here in the 1950s.
0:31:42 > 0:31:46- Religion greatly - influenced the culture.
0:31:46 > 0:31:52- That's why it's harder - to come across traditional music.
0:31:52 > 0:31:56- Right children, - stand still and sing.
0:31:57 > 0:32:02- But the sound of the gospel music is - different from what we hear at home.
0:32:03 > 0:32:05- I'm looking forward to recording it.
0:32:06 > 0:32:08- Yes...go back slightly please.
0:32:13 > 0:32:16- I'm ready.
0:32:18 > 0:32:21- SINGING
0:32:51 > 0:32:53- The music doesn't have - to be perfect.
0:32:54 > 0:32:56- The guitars are out of tune.
0:32:56 > 0:33:00- There's emotion in the music - and energy in the singing.
0:33:01 > 0:33:03- That's why it sounds so good.
0:33:03 > 0:33:06- SINGING
0:33:27 > 0:33:29- Hooray!
0:33:30 > 0:33:32- Thank you, thank you.
0:33:37 > 0:33:41- Right, you come here - and I'll start to record you.
0:33:42 > 0:33:46- He says he wants to shout. - I'll record him while we're here.
0:33:47 > 0:33:49- When you're ready.
0:33:49 > 0:33:53- SHOUTS
0:34:03 > 0:34:04- LAUGHTER
0:34:12 > 0:34:17- This is the traditional way - of calling the community together.
0:34:19 > 0:34:24- I think the old man - added a few unexpected notes.
0:34:25 > 0:34:28- But it worked.
0:34:28 > 0:34:32- Everyone wanted to record something.
0:34:32 > 0:34:34- SINGING
0:35:05 > 0:35:10- Mamma Evelyn and Mamma Ruth - are two of the congregation.
0:35:10 > 0:35:14- They offered to help me - wash my clothes.
0:35:15 > 0:35:18- It was a good time to chat.
0:35:18 > 0:35:20- SINGING
0:35:32 > 0:35:36- These are the Numan and Wahgi - rivers.
0:35:36 > 0:35:41- This is our drinking water. - It's better drinking here at night.
0:35:41 > 0:35:44- People are not bathing - or washing clothes.
0:35:44 > 0:35:48- The two mothers are showing me - how to wash clothes.
0:35:49 > 0:35:53- Mamma, I'm so happy - I could come to stay with you.
0:35:54 > 0:35:58- Yes, I'm very happy too.
0:35:58 > 0:36:03- What does music mean to you?
0:36:05 > 0:36:10- When I was young, - music was important.
0:36:11 > 0:36:17- After becoming a wife and mother, - music is more for worshipping...
0:36:17 > 0:36:20- ..and then it's very important.
0:36:20 > 0:36:23- When you worship...
0:36:23 > 0:36:27- ..does music bring - you closer to God?
0:36:27 > 0:36:28- Yes.
0:36:29 > 0:36:34- Do you sing while you wash clothes - or when you're in the garden?
0:36:34 > 0:36:38- When plants don't grow, - we worry and sing to God.
0:36:38 > 0:36:42- We ask why - doesn't he help the soil...
0:36:42 > 0:36:44- ..why does he make us worry.
0:36:45 > 0:36:48- It's things like that we sing about.
0:36:49 > 0:36:51- Can you sing for me?
0:36:53 > 0:36:56- # On the riverbank, water gives life
0:36:56 > 0:36:59- # And we are happy
0:36:59 > 0:37:03- # Never mind if you live by the sea - or in the mountains
0:37:03 > 0:37:06- # We'll hold hands and dance #
0:37:06 > 0:37:12- Tell us the name of your country - and we'll sing it in the song.
0:37:13 > 0:37:14- Cymru.
0:37:14 > 0:37:15- Cymru.- - Cymru?
0:37:15 > 0:37:17- Cymru.
0:37:19 > 0:37:23- # Never mind - if you're from Cymru or PNG
0:37:23 > 0:37:26- # We'll hold hands and dance #
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- Go for it again!
0:37:30 > 0:37:33- # On the riverbank, water gives life
0:37:33 > 0:37:36- # And we are happy
0:37:36 > 0:37:39- # Never mind - if you're from Cymru or PNG
0:37:40 > 0:37:44- # We'll hold hands and dance #
0:37:45 > 0:37:50- Thank you! There's a connection - between PNG and Wales now.
0:37:53 > 0:37:57- We should always come together - to dance and sing.
0:37:58 > 0:38:01- Hey, lads! Where are you going?
0:38:02 > 0:38:05- Are you going to the highway?
0:38:06 > 0:38:09- # Never mind - if you're from Cymru or PNG
0:38:09 > 0:38:12- # We'll hold hands and dance #
0:38:12 > 0:38:13- .
0:38:15 > 0:38:15- Subtitles
0:38:15 > 0:38:17- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:38:23 > 0:38:27- I've been here a fortnight. - The recording has gone well.
0:38:27 > 0:38:32- I didn't expect it to be so hard - to find people to take part.
0:38:35 > 0:38:39- Recording this group - will be very special.
0:38:41 > 0:38:45- I lived with Pastor Peter's family - for a year.
0:38:45 > 0:38:48- They treated me like a son.
0:38:51 > 0:38:55- Birdsong adds to the music.
0:38:57 > 0:38:58- What is that bird?
0:38:59 > 0:39:02- It's not a bird, it's a frog.
0:39:02 > 0:39:06- Whatever it is, - it's the sound of nature!
0:39:06 > 0:39:11- I'm recording. - Start when you're ready.
0:39:18 > 0:39:20- SINGING
0:39:39 > 0:39:43- Mamma Margaret, Gloria, - Pastor Peter and Jo-Jo...
0:39:43 > 0:39:49- ..are some of the people that - mean the most to me in the world.
0:39:49 > 0:39:53- I know I'll treasure this recording.
0:40:00 > 0:40:02- SINGING
0:40:03 > 0:40:07- My relationship with Chief - Thomas Tumun has become stronger.
0:40:07 > 0:40:10- It felt as if - we were two old friends...
0:40:10 > 0:40:15- ..when we chatted about how to catch - trout over breakfast.
0:40:16 > 0:40:20- I feel I belong to the area.
0:40:20 > 0:40:23- I know more people here - than back in Gwynedd.
0:40:25 > 0:40:29- Despite the changes - forced on them by white men...
0:40:29 > 0:40:32- ..they treat me as one of their own.
0:40:41 > 0:40:44- We're staying down there.
0:40:46 > 0:40:51- The Papua New Guinea highlands - lay undiscovered until the 1950s.
0:40:54 > 0:40:59- People looking for gold - found four million people here.
0:40:59 > 0:41:04- They lived as we did in Wales - 20,000 years ago.
0:41:04 > 0:41:09- It's incredible to think - how quickly things have changed.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13- People use mobile phones - and drink Coca-Cola.
0:41:20 > 0:41:23- To find out about the culture - that was here...
0:41:23 > 0:41:26- ..before the white men came...
0:41:26 > 0:41:31- ..I'm going to the country's biggest - cultural festival, the Hagen Show.
0:41:33 > 0:41:37- Clans from all over - the country have travelled here.
0:41:38 > 0:41:42- It was described as the most - colourful event on the planet.
0:41:43 > 0:41:48- More than 50,000 local people - will visit over the weekend.
0:41:49 > 0:41:53- We're going backstage - to see the preparations.
0:41:53 > 0:41:58- Your costumes look good. - Are they your region's clothes?
0:41:59 > 0:42:03- Is it only for the show - that you dress like this?
0:42:04 > 0:42:07- You used to dress like this - all the time years ago?
0:42:07 > 0:42:11- It's only for Sing Sing - that we're like this now.
0:42:11 > 0:42:15- Sing Sing is this sort of event.
0:42:15 > 0:42:17- It's hotting up on the main field.
0:42:17 > 0:42:20- SINGING AND DRUMS
0:42:26 > 0:42:29- It's a singing and dancing - competition.
0:42:29 > 0:42:34- It's like a disorganized eisteddfod, - with no caravans.
0:42:36 > 0:42:38- SINGING
0:42:39 > 0:42:42- There are too many drums - to record anything today.
0:42:44 > 0:42:46- I can enjoy the experience.
0:42:57 > 0:42:59- The show started 50 years ago.
0:43:00 > 0:43:04- From the start, it's been a place - where people meet each other.
0:43:05 > 0:43:10- The white men started it, because - of the fighting between clans.
0:43:11 > 0:43:15- More than 90 clans have come - from far and wide...
0:43:16 > 0:43:19- ..to peacefully - celebrate their culture.
0:43:19 > 0:43:21- It's great.
0:43:29 > 0:43:32- PIPES
0:43:41 > 0:43:44- Good sound!
0:43:45 > 0:43:49- You know how - to keep rhythm together.
0:43:50 > 0:43:53- Can many people still play these?
0:43:53 > 0:43:57- No, only the old men like us - still play.
0:43:58 > 0:44:01- Youngsters can't play - the old instruments.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18- The show is an example...
0:44:19 > 0:44:24- ..of how traditions and modern life - meet in Papua New Guinea.
0:44:25 > 0:44:28- They are in traditional costumes.
0:44:28 > 0:44:31- But the show - is sponsored by Vodafone.
0:44:36 > 0:44:39- It's very hot - and I'm sweating buckets.
0:44:39 > 0:44:42- I'm not surprised - some of them are tired.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47- They've danced and played drums - non-stop all day.
0:44:54 > 0:44:55- SINGING
0:44:57 > 0:45:00- After the Hagen Show...
0:45:01 > 0:45:05- ..I'm so glad I succeeded - to record Kundiawa music.
0:45:06 > 0:45:08- SINGING
0:45:13 > 0:45:15- In twenty years' time...
0:45:16 > 0:45:20- ..listening to the music - will bring back memories.
0:45:21 > 0:45:25- That's the thing - with recording music or filming.
0:45:26 > 0:45:31- Once it's done, it's done. - No-one can take it away from you.
0:45:31 > 0:45:34- SINGING
0:45:40 > 0:45:43- It's almost time to leave.
0:45:44 > 0:45:46- The community has gathered.
0:45:46 > 0:45:50- We've been here - for quite a long time.
0:45:51 > 0:45:55- I've had a fantastic time. - Everyone has been incredibly kind.
0:45:56 > 0:45:59- They described their culture to me.
0:46:00 > 0:46:02- I'll miss these people.
0:46:04 > 0:46:08- It's time to go.
0:46:08 > 0:46:10- I won't forget you.
0:46:10 > 0:46:14- I'll be the other side of the world, - thinking about you.
0:46:15 > 0:46:21- I have so many mothers, fathers, - sisters and brothers here now.
0:46:21 > 0:46:26- I'll give the Pastor copies - of the CD I recorded with you.
0:46:27 > 0:46:29- Will you share the music?
0:46:30 > 0:46:34- Saying goodbye is hard.
0:46:35 > 0:46:37- I will come back.
0:46:37 > 0:46:41- It's hard because - it's so far from home.
0:46:42 > 0:46:45- Some faces won't be here - the next time.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50- SINGING
0:46:50 > 0:46:52- I will come back.
0:46:52 > 0:46:55- The country is part of me.
0:46:55 > 0:47:00- You're not going forever. - I'll see you again before I die.
0:47:01 > 0:47:07- I feel privileged. Money couldn't - buy what these people gave me.
0:47:08 > 0:47:11- People aren't individuals here.
0:47:11 > 0:47:15- They work in a group, - a team, a clan.
0:47:16 > 0:47:17- # Hosanna
0:47:17 > 0:47:21- # Hallelujah
0:47:21 > 0:47:22- # Hosanna
0:47:23 > 0:47:26- # Hallelujah
0:47:26 > 0:47:28- # Hosanna
0:47:29 > 0:47:30- # Hallelujah #
0:47:30 > 0:47:35- Clans and language - can separate people.
0:47:37 > 0:47:41- But music brings people together.
0:47:41 > 0:47:43- # Hosanna
0:47:44 > 0:47:46- # Hallelujah #
0:47:47 > 0:47:49- It's a complex country...
0:47:50 > 0:47:51- ..but it works.
0:47:52 > 0:47:54- It's an amazing place.
0:47:54 > 0:47:56- Amazing.
0:47:58 > 0:48:01- # Hallelujah #
0:48:03 > 0:48:05- # Hallelujah #
0:48:11 > 0:48:13- PIPES
0:48:25 > 0:48:28- S4C Subtitles by Gwead
0:48:28 > 0:48:29- .