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0:00:04 > 0:00:08- I'm in Abergavenny, - in the Gorsedd stone circle.
0:00:08 > 0:00:11- They've been here since 1913...
0:00:12 > 0:00:16- ..the last time the Eisteddfod - came to Abergavenny.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18- I have a link to the area.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- My father had family in Abergavenny.
0:00:21 > 0:00:25- In the 1970s, I lived nearby - in the Black Mountains.
0:00:25 > 0:00:31- I'll take you on a journey through - the mountains to Abergavenny.
0:00:32 > 0:00:36- It won't take long, - but it will be full of its people...
0:00:37 > 0:00:41- ..some from the past, - some from the present...
0:00:41 > 0:00:45- ..poets, musicians and a historian.
0:00:45 > 0:00:50- And before we finish the journey, - we'll go for a walk to the future.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04- We start fifteen miles - north of Abergavenny...
0:01:04 > 0:01:07- ..in Capel-y-ffin, - in the Vale Of Ewyas.
0:01:12 > 0:01:13- This is Capel-y-ffin.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17- There's a peculiar little church, - like an owl with a hat...
0:01:18 > 0:01:20- ..a house and a phone kiosk.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24- England is on the other - side of the mountain.
0:01:24 > 0:01:29- TH Parry-Williams came here - on a pilgrimage in the early 1950s.
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- This is what he wrote - about the experience.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- "I travelled to the border - between Wales and England.
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- "There was an element - of sadness to it all.
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- "Here, like in many other places...
0:01:44 > 0:01:48- "..Wales and the Welsh - language is in decline.
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- "A blight on what we hold - to be our inheritance...
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- "..has worked its way - into our constitution.
0:01:56 > 0:02:00- "To all purposes, the language - and people here are English.
0:02:00 > 0:02:04- "For me, there is a smell of - lethargy and death in the area...
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- "..despite its beauty."
0:02:12 > 0:02:14- A sincere response, I'm sure.
0:02:14 > 0:02:19- But for once, I totally disagree - with TH Parry-Williams's perception.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23- I'll tell you why, - while we head for Abergavenny.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- This is Cwmyoy, at the bottom - of the Vale Of Ewyas...
0:02:36 > 0:02:40- ..where TH Parry-Williams - saw the end of everything...
0:02:40 > 0:02:42- ..we consider to be our inheritance.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- But when a Welsh person - comes to a place like this...
0:02:47 > 0:02:51- ..it's like someone taking - a lamp to a big, dark cave.
0:02:51 > 0:02:57- Art from a distant age, - the deer, wild horses and hunters...
0:02:57 > 0:02:59- ..are revived on the walls.
0:03:07 > 0:03:08- Take the place names.
0:03:08 > 0:03:13- That big crag above the church - looks like a yoke.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- That's the name, Cwmyoy.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- They said "yoy" here, - not "iau", for "yoke".
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- In myths like Culhwch And Olwen...
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- ..there's a story - about King Arthur...
0:03:27 > 0:03:32- ..hunting a wild boar, the Twrch - Trwyth, in the Vale Of Ewyas.
0:03:33 > 0:03:36- Sometimes, old verses - named farms and people.
0:03:38 > 0:03:40- "Three things are bent of aim
0:03:41 > 0:03:43- "Joni Pant Y Gwyddel's gun
0:03:44 > 0:03:46- "Cwmyoy's church steeple
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- "And the eyes of Moi Cwmbwchel"
0:03:58 > 0:04:01- Llanthony's real name - is Llan Nant Honddu.
0:04:02 > 0:04:07- The ruins of Britain's highest - Augustinian priory are located here.
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- In 1188, Gerald Of Wales - described the monks...
0:04:17 > 0:04:20- ..looking at the horizon...
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- ..higher than the roof - of their priory.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- They could see - the mountaintops touch the sky...
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- ..and quite often, herds of wild - deer grazing on the summits.
0:04:41 > 0:04:43- It's hard to believe now...
0:04:43 > 0:04:47- ..but a few years before - TH ParryWilliams's visit...
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- ..there was a plan - to flood the Vale Of Ewyas.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- At the time, my father, - James Morris...
0:04:53 > 0:04:58- ..a young journalist at The Times, - wrote a leader about it.
0:04:58 > 0:05:03- "The Honddu Valley's intangible - charm, not any associations...
0:05:03 > 0:05:07- "..makes the proposed flooding - seem little short of a tragedy...
0:05:08 > 0:05:12- "..to those who fished its stream - or walked its mountains.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- "It should be pointed out - the Black Mountains...
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- "..are the nearest - real mountains to London.
0:05:19 > 0:05:23- "They might be described, - in the appropriate language...
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- "..as a valuable social amenity.
0:05:25 > 0:05:30- "The Honddu Valley is perhaps unique - in its memories and in itself.
0:05:30 > 0:05:34- "Its metamorphosis into a sheet - of water will be peculiarly sad."
0:05:35 > 0:05:38- The valley wasn't flooded, - thank God.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40- I used to walk over the mountain...
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- ..to sit amongst the ruins - for an hour or two.
0:05:44 > 0:05:49- But the last time I came here, - I was sent away, for singing.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58- I make a slight detour - from the Abergavenny road...
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- ..to the next valley, - Cwm Grwyne Fechan.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03- There's a very good reason.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- About 15 years before - TH Parry-Williams's visit...
0:06:10 > 0:06:15- ..academic and author TJ Morgan - came here to record the voices...
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- ..of some of the last five - in the valley who spoke Welsh.
0:06:19 > 0:06:22- They were all over 80 years old.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27- My name is John Williams.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29- I live in Felin Grwyne Fechan.
0:06:31 > 0:06:34- I have a small farm - of about eighteen chains.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- I have about 35 sheep and a cow.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- Do you mill grain at all?
0:06:44 > 0:06:46- I did at one time, but not now.
0:06:46 > 0:06:48- The mill has gone down now.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52- Do you remember - when everyone spoke Welsh?
0:06:53 > 0:06:57- I remember the time when everyone - in Grwyne Fechan spoke Welsh...
0:06:57 > 0:07:02- ..apart from a couple of doctors - and a Scotsman up in Tal-y-Maes.
0:07:02 > 0:07:04- We have to finish now.
0:07:06 > 0:07:11- That interesting Welsh dialect - sounds very like Breton to me.
0:07:11 > 0:07:17- This is what TJ Morgan said about - his conversation with John Williams.
0:07:17 > 0:07:19- "I felt a pang of sadness...
0:07:19 > 0:07:25- "..as if seeing in a mirror the last - speakers of the Welsh language."
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- You know the bent church - steeple we saw earlier?
0:07:30 > 0:07:35- The motto of an old Black Mountains - family can be seen there.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38- "Better die than languish long."
0:07:38 > 0:07:43- TJ Morgan and TH Parry-Williams - would agree, I'm sure.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- But what if a patient, - all of a sudden...
0:07:47 > 0:07:49- ..starts to get better?
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- This is Crickhowell.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- I caught the bus to school - here every day.
0:08:19 > 0:08:23- But I went in the other - direction, to school in Brecon.
0:08:23 > 0:08:24- There was Welsh there.
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- But there was no Welsh - in the late 1970s in Abergavenny.
0:08:29 > 0:08:33- Now, there's a Welsh - medium school there.
0:08:39 > 0:08:41- Abergavenny
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- I've arranged to meet poet - Frank Olding in Abergavenny.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- Frank knows everything - about the town's history.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54- He is also Chair...
0:08:54 > 0:08:59- ..of the 2016 Monmouthshire - Eisteddfod executive committee.
0:09:00 > 0:09:04- The eisteddfod was - last held here in 1913.
0:09:04 > 0:09:09- There were complaints, - mainly in the Goleuad newspaper...
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- ..that it was very anglicized.
0:09:12 > 0:09:13- Is that true?
0:09:13 > 0:09:18- It seems it was, to some extent. - Welsh was spoken here.
0:09:18 > 0:09:22- But authority, - so to speak, was in English hands.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- All the other activities - were very anglicized.
0:09:26 > 0:09:30- It seems that they influenced - the Eisteddfod a great deal.
0:09:31 > 0:09:36- There's a tendency to think that - Welsh disappeared long before that.
0:09:36 > 0:09:38- Yes. It's not true.
0:09:38 > 0:09:40- At the time of the Eisteddfod...
0:09:40 > 0:09:45- ..a quarter of the population - still spoke Welsh.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48- When Southall came here in 1893...
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- ..in places like Llanthony, - Llanddewi Nant Honddu...
0:09:53 > 0:09:56- ..he said that many people - over 50 spoke Welsh.
0:09:57 > 0:10:01- The problem was they didn't speak - Welsh to the next generation.
0:10:01 > 0:10:05- The language people spoke - probably changed at this time.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- It's hot and it will be like this - the first week in August.
0:10:10 > 0:10:11- Are you thirsty?
0:10:11 > 0:10:12- Are you thirsty?- - Yes.
0:10:12 > 0:10:13- Me too.
0:10:20 > 0:10:24- This is the Coach And Horses - in the centre of Abergavenny.
0:10:25 > 0:10:27- Why is this place significant?
0:10:28 > 0:10:30- Well, 150 years ago...
0:10:30 > 0:10:35- ..the Abergavenny Cymreigyddion - Society was founded here in 1833.
0:10:36 > 0:10:41- Hywel Teifi said if it wasn't - for the Cymreigyddion Society...
0:10:41 > 0:10:45- ..there would be no - National Eisteddfod now.
0:10:45 > 0:10:47- Why?
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- The Abergavenny eisteddfodau - were very big and successful.
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- The idea of a National Eisteddfod - was first suggested here.
0:10:56 > 0:11:00- Five years after the Abergavenny - eisteddfodau ended...
0:11:01 > 0:11:05- ..an eisteddfod was - held in Aberdare, then Llangollen.
0:11:05 > 0:11:09- So it could be argued that the - National Eisteddfod was born here.
0:11:10 > 0:11:11- In this room.
0:11:11 > 0:11:12- Where we are now?
0:11:12 > 0:11:13- Where we are now?- - Yes.
0:11:13 > 0:11:13- Cheers.
0:11:13 > 0:11:15- Cheers.- - Cheers.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23- The Eisteddfod will be held - on the banks of the Usk...
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- ..at Castle Meadows...
0:11:25 > 0:11:29- ..merrily lifting two fingers - to the oppressors' towers.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35- So this is the Norman castle.
0:11:35 > 0:11:36- Yes.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- There wasn't much Welsh - in Abergavenny then.
0:11:39 > 0:11:41- No, very little.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- Only the French, English - and Flemings could live in the town.
0:11:45 > 0:11:51- At times, relations between - the Normans and Welsh were very bad.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56- This where The Treachery - Of The Long Knives took place...
0:11:56 > 0:11:59- ..between the Welsh and Normans.
0:11:59 > 0:12:04- William de Braose, - Lord Of Abergavenny...
0:12:05 > 0:12:07- ..invited Welsh princes to a feast.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- During the festivities...
0:12:11 > 0:12:14- ..an order was given - to murder the princes.
0:12:14 > 0:12:15- Stabbed.
0:12:15 > 0:12:16- Stabbed.- - Stabbed, yes!
0:12:17 > 0:12:20- We've been invited to a celebration.
0:12:20 > 0:12:22- I hope we don't get stabbed.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25- I hope we don't get stabbed.- - I hope not! We'd better go.
0:12:26 > 0:12:27- .
0:12:31 > 0:12:31- Subtitles
0:12:31 > 0:12:33- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:35 > 0:12:39- # I was standing on a corner, - didn't mean no harm
0:12:39 > 0:12:44- # Police walked up, grabbed me - by my arms standing on a corner
0:12:45 > 0:12:47- # I didn't mean no harm #
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- My friend, John Barnie, - is a local poet and blues singer.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58- He was invited to perform - tonight in The Hen & Chickens...
0:12:59 > 0:13:04- ..with Frank Olding, - me, and local author Jane Blank.
0:13:04 > 0:13:09- I'd like to know about your - experience of the Welsh language.
0:13:10 > 0:13:15- You come from Abergavenny. There was - no Welsh here when you were a child.
0:13:15 > 0:13:16- No.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19- What is your relationship - with the language?
0:13:20 > 0:13:25- I started to learn Welsh - in Copenhagen.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28- It's quite far from Abergavenny!
0:13:29 > 0:13:32- I had learnt Danish.
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- I realized how a language...
0:13:36 > 0:13:39- ..can change who you are.
0:13:39 > 0:13:42- What is the situation - in Abergavenny?
0:13:42 > 0:13:45- The language is all around us.
0:13:46 > 0:13:51- It's part of the landscape, - its character and history.
0:13:51 > 0:13:57- If you don't understand its role, - you only get half of the history.
0:13:58 > 0:14:03- The language is an integral part - of the character of the place.
0:14:04 > 0:14:05- TWRCH
0:14:05 > 0:14:08- "He seizes - the sovereignty of his lineage
0:14:09 > 0:14:11- "Treasure of a kingdom
0:14:11 > 0:14:13- "Taunting a tame generation
0:14:14 > 0:14:16- "For its lost passion"
0:14:17 > 0:14:18- What about you?
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- What about you?- - I was born and raised in Sheffield.
0:14:22 > 0:14:27- We spent the school summer holidays - in Eglwys Fach with my grandparents.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- The family spoke Welsh.
0:14:32 > 0:14:33- Do you write poetry in Welsh?
0:14:33 > 0:14:34- Do you write poetry in Welsh?- - No.
0:14:34 > 0:14:40- I write dramatic - dialogues and monologues.
0:14:42 > 0:14:44- Poetry is something I feel.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49- "Only words he had for the woman - whose depression had such weight
0:14:49 > 0:14:51- "She could not even stand
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- "So many words that span the black - mass of the mountain out of focus"
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- Raymond Williams once said...
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- "..If you come from the borders, - you're not part of the English.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09- "You're not part of the Welsh, - either." We're border people.
0:15:10 > 0:15:14- It's interesting - if that has changed.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- I get very angry...
0:15:17 > 0:15:20- ..when articles - in Golwg or Y Cymro...
0:15:21 > 0:15:24- ..say the strongholds - are weakening.
0:15:24 > 0:15:25- That's true.
0:15:26 > 0:15:31- They criticise - schools in South-East Wales....
0:15:31 > 0:15:35- ..because the children - don't speak Welsh outside school.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38- That makes me furious.
0:15:39 > 0:15:43- Don't criticise our children. - They speak Welsh.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- And out of nowhere.
0:15:46 > 0:15:50- Welsh is the language - of all of Wales.
0:15:50 > 0:15:55- Wherever I go in Wales, - everything is Welsh.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58- All the names are there - to welcome us.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- # More
0:16:02 > 0:16:04- # More
0:16:05 > 0:16:09- # To save so much more
0:16:10 > 0:16:13- # A thirst returns
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- # To save
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- # So much more #
0:16:28 > 0:16:30- That's it. Thank you.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- "Abergavenny market - sells butter and milk
0:16:52 > 0:16:54- "Eggs, fruit and all sorts of meat
0:16:55 > 0:16:58- "In Abergavenny market, - there are sheep and lambs
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- "In Abergavenny market, - I'll find Beti Pentwyn."
0:17:03 > 0:17:08- But that was a long time ago. - Beti isn't waiting for me today.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- I'm meeting Dr Elin Jones - in the cafe.
0:17:22 > 0:17:27- Hey, Twm! - It's nice to see you. Sit down.
0:17:27 > 0:17:28- Take a chair.
0:17:28 > 0:17:29- Take a chair.- - "Cater"?
0:17:29 > 0:17:30- Do you understand?
0:17:30 > 0:17:31- Do you understand?- - Yes.
0:17:31 > 0:17:32- Good!
0:17:32 > 0:17:36- It's Gwenhwyseg, the local language.
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- The dialect of Gwent.
0:17:38 > 0:17:40- It's disappeared.
0:17:40 > 0:17:41- Don't say that.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43- Don't say that.- - Not in your case, obviously.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46- It has, from Abergavenny.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48- To be honest...
0:17:48 > 0:17:54- ..hardly anyone under 50 speaks it.
0:17:55 > 0:18:01- A very small number of us, over 50 - years old, keep Gwenhwyseg alive.
0:18:01 > 0:18:05- It was strong at one time.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08- In the early 20th century...
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- ..John Griffiths wrote a book - about Gwenhwyseg.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14- He discussed the dialect...
0:18:14 > 0:18:18- ..the hardened consonants, - long 'E' and so on.
0:18:18 > 0:18:22- He said it was - the strongest dialect in Wales...
0:18:22 > 0:18:25- ..because of the number of speakers.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29- At the height - of the coal industry...
0:18:30 > 0:18:34- ..it was the most widely spoken - dialect in Wales.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38- In a century, - it has disappeared completely.
0:18:38 > 0:18:42- People were ashamed - of their own language.
0:18:42 > 0:18:47- Mam refused to speak Welsh outside - the home.
0:18:47 > 0:18:52- My parents were told off - for speaking Welsh to me.
0:18:53 > 0:18:58- English was the language - of business and the world.
0:18:58 > 0:19:03- This is how a language disappears. - The dialect has gone in my lifetime.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08- Now we must think how - to safeguard the Welsh language...
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- ..for us and our children...
0:19:11 > 0:19:16- ..and also safeguard the dialect - spoken by Welsh schoolchildren!
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- The Eisteddfod is coming here.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21- You are the Eisteddfod President.
0:19:22 > 0:19:25- Will you address the nation - in Gwenhwyseg?
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- Yes, on the final Saturday.
0:19:27 > 0:19:32- It'll be the last time Gwenhwyseg - will be heard in the Eisteddfod...
0:19:33 > 0:19:35- ..and maybe the first time!
0:19:35 > 0:19:40- People were ashamed - of their dialect.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- "Happiness is a Warm Welsh Cake".
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- I must have one before - going to the local Welsh school.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- Mmm! "Pice ar y maen".
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- "Pice ar y maen?" - Is that Welsh cakes?
0:19:58 > 0:19:59- Yes.
0:19:59 > 0:20:01- Right.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11- The pupils and I - are preparing for the Eisteddfod.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15- The work is based on the voice - of John Williams Grwyne Fechan.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19- I live in Felin Grwyne Fechan.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- I have a small farm - of about eighteen chains.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26- I get up at six in the morning.
0:20:26 > 0:20:32- I light the fire, - and have breakfast.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- Then I feed the cow and chickens.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39- We have to finish now.
0:20:40 > 0:20:45- Which of the words did you notice?
0:20:47 > 0:20:48- He said "fferem", for farm.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- He said "fferem", for farm.- - What else?
0:20:51 > 0:20:56- He said six o'clock differently.
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- He said "catw", and not "cadw".
0:21:02 > 0:21:03- He hardened the consonants.
0:21:03 > 0:21:06- He hardened the consonants.- - He said "cod", and not "coed".
0:21:06 > 0:21:11- He barked out his words.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- It's very different - from how you speak.
0:21:17 > 0:21:21- We turned the old man's voice - into verses.
0:21:21 > 0:21:25- They will open the Literary - Pavilion on the first Saturday.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- # John Williams is my name
0:21:30 > 0:21:34- # John Williams is my name
0:21:35 > 0:21:38- # I live in Grwyne Fechan
0:21:39 > 0:21:41- # Ffal-di-ral-di-ro
0:21:42 > 0:21:46- # I live in Grwyne Fechan
0:21:46 > 0:21:49- # Ffal-di-ral-di-ro #
0:21:51 > 0:21:55- Well! Are you looking forward - to the Eisteddfod?
0:21:55 > 0:21:56- Yes!
0:21:56 > 0:21:57- Yes!- - Why?
0:21:57 > 0:22:02- We don't have the opportunity - to hear Welsh in the area.
0:22:02 > 0:22:05- There will be a lot of Welsh - in the Eisteddfod.
0:22:06 > 0:22:11- I hope more people - will speak Welsh...
0:22:11 > 0:22:13- ..more than they do now.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17- It'll only happen once in our lives.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- It doesn't usually - come to a town like ours.
0:22:21 > 0:22:27- That isn't true. The Eisteddfod - could return in your lifetime.
0:22:28 > 0:22:32- If the Abergavenny Eisteddfod - is a success...
0:22:32 > 0:22:36- ..it'll be back more often - than once in a hundred years.
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- You might be the Archdruid!
0:22:54 > 0:22:58- "We have to finish now," - said TJ Morgan.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- But we don't. Think of the children.
0:23:01 > 0:23:05- They are an antidote to despair.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08- They have the medicine - to heal the patient.
0:23:08 > 0:23:12- The Eisteddfod - will be great for Abergavenny.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15- That's why, in my opinion...
0:23:15 > 0:23:18- ..it would be - an unforgivable tragedy...
0:23:19 > 0:23:22- ..if the Eisteddfod - stopped travelling...
0:23:22 > 0:23:26- ..to shine its light - in places like the Black Mountains.
0:23:28 > 0:23:31- # The old millstone is on the floor
0:23:32 > 0:23:35- # We have to finish now
0:23:36 > 0:23:39- # Ffal-di-ral-di-ro
0:23:40 > 0:23:44- # We have to finish now
0:23:45 > 0:23:49- # Ffal-di-ral-di-ro #
0:23:49 > 0:23:52- S4C Subtitles by Gwead