0:00:04 > 0:00:07This week, I'm in the home of golf.
0:00:07 > 0:00:10The ancient university town of St Andrews.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15This week, the professor who's jazzing up his church,
0:00:15 > 0:00:19Prince William's university tutor,
0:00:19 > 0:00:21life-saving medical research,
0:00:21 > 0:00:25and we have hymns from Dunfermline Abbey and St Andrews university.
0:00:39 > 0:00:42We're in Fife, ancient kingdom capital of Scotland,
0:00:42 > 0:00:45sandwiched between the Forth and the Tay,
0:00:45 > 0:00:48it has an almost island-like character.
0:00:52 > 0:00:57This is North Queensferry, and over there is South Queensferry,
0:00:57 > 0:01:01both of them called after Queen Margaret of Scotland
0:01:01 > 0:01:05who established the first crossing here at the narrowest point
0:01:05 > 0:01:08of the Forth estuary, almost a thousand years ago.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10It was done so that people could move more easily
0:01:10 > 0:01:15to and from the seat of power of the kings of Scotland, Dunfermline.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18And it's from there that our first hymn comes today.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54Travelling through its winding country roads
0:03:54 > 0:03:59and fertile fields, you can see why Fife was the home of kings.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03Falkland Palace, the country residence of the Stuarts,
0:04:03 > 0:04:06still draws many visitors.
0:04:08 > 0:04:11From the ancient royal capital in Dunfermline,
0:04:11 > 0:04:15we're moving northeast, to another popular holiday resort,
0:04:15 > 0:04:17the ancient religious capital, St Andrews.
0:04:17 > 0:04:20It's probably best known as the home of golf.
0:04:20 > 0:04:23It's here that the game was invented.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26And today, St Andrews residents can play golf
0:04:26 > 0:04:30on all the world famous links courses for a whole year,
0:04:30 > 0:04:33for less than some people pay for a single round on other courses.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36So, I just had to have a go.
0:04:36 > 0:04:40Now, let me tell you, I have never in my entire life hit a golf ball.
0:04:41 > 0:04:42Legs bent.
0:04:45 > 0:04:46Arms straight.
0:04:48 > 0:04:49Oh!
0:04:49 > 0:04:51SHE LAUGHS
0:04:51 > 0:04:56Awfully sorry! Frankly, I thought that was rather good.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00It's just a little unfortunate I also nearly hit a runner.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04Perhaps I should just stick to a gentle walk,
0:05:04 > 0:05:08just across the dunes where Chariots Of Fire was filmed,
0:05:08 > 0:05:12or amongst the ruins of Scotland's largest cathedral,
0:05:12 > 0:05:16still evoking memories of when pilgrims flocked here
0:05:16 > 0:05:19to visit the relics of the apostle, Andrew.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22This place was the focal point
0:05:22 > 0:05:25not just for the ancient streets of St Andrews,
0:05:25 > 0:05:28but for the religious life of Scotland.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31And then, of course, there's the university.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34At 600 years old, St Andrews is the third oldest
0:05:34 > 0:05:37university in Britain after Oxford and Cambridge.
0:05:37 > 0:05:41St Salvator's Chapel is almost as old. 550 years to be exact.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44And it's from here that our next hymn is coming.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47A hymn which remembers the apostle
0:05:47 > 0:05:52after whom both the university and the town were named.
0:07:32 > 0:07:37In February this year, Prince William and Catherine Middleton
0:07:37 > 0:07:39returned to the university where they met as students.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43This is a very special moment for Catherine and me.
0:07:43 > 0:07:44It feels like coming home.
0:07:44 > 0:07:49They were launching the university's 600th anniversary celebrations.
0:07:49 > 0:07:54During his time here, Prince William studied geography
0:07:54 > 0:07:56and Charles Warren was his tutor.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00He's the future king, in another sense he was just another student.
0:08:00 > 0:08:03And he was very keen to be treated as such.
0:08:03 > 0:08:06So, we didn't make any adjustments to our teaching,
0:08:06 > 0:08:10you know, he was in the class, he was in the lecture theatre.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13He's the easiest guy to chat to. Incredibly down to earth.
0:08:13 > 0:08:16Surprisingly down to earth given his background.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20Charles told me how he came to be at St Andrews in the first place.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24It goes back to a number of particular junctions,
0:08:24 > 0:08:26forks in the road at points in my life.
0:08:26 > 0:08:28Where it has seemed very clear
0:08:28 > 0:08:33that God's had a hand in pushing me down one fork and not the other.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36And there was one particularly, the job before this one.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38I'd applied for the job
0:08:38 > 0:08:42and I was committed to an expedition to Patagonia.
0:08:42 > 0:08:46As the expedition departure date approached,
0:08:46 > 0:08:52I had this increasingly nagging sense that maybe I shouldn't be going.
0:08:52 > 0:08:56So, I prayed, and I got my family praying
0:08:56 > 0:09:01and it was one of those occasions where we had a unanimous sense
0:09:01 > 0:09:03of God saying the same thing.
0:09:03 > 0:09:05You still didn't know why?
0:09:05 > 0:09:07No, no clue. No clue at all.
0:09:07 > 0:09:12But simply that it was OK, as it were, for me to go
0:09:12 > 0:09:14but I should come back a week early.
0:09:14 > 0:09:17And then it turned out, extraordinarily, that
0:09:17 > 0:09:18the day I got back to Heathrow
0:09:18 > 0:09:21was the day of the interview for this job.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25People are often suspicious of that kind of interpretation of events.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28What makes you so sure that it was God speaking to you?
0:09:28 > 0:09:33I think because it came out very directly out of a process of prayer.
0:09:33 > 0:09:38You know, we were asking God, "What is the right way forward, here?"
0:09:38 > 0:09:42And we had that same unanimous sense of what he was saying.
0:09:42 > 0:09:47Right down to how much earlier I should come back.
0:09:47 > 0:09:50So, it just seemed like God.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52I mean, that may all be completely false,
0:09:52 > 0:09:55but it certainly seems to stack up to me.
0:12:52 > 0:12:56Medicine, I think, has been taught
0:12:56 > 0:12:58and practised in St Andrews
0:12:58 > 0:13:00for well over a thousand years.
0:13:02 > 0:13:06The first teachers of medicine were probably monks,
0:13:06 > 0:13:10who looked after the hospices and hospitals
0:13:10 > 0:13:12around the great cathedral.
0:13:14 > 0:13:18Hugh MacDougall has brought 21st century medicine
0:13:18 > 0:13:21much closer to scientific research.
0:13:21 > 0:13:25We believe that the future of medical progress
0:13:25 > 0:13:29must involve interactions between doctors and scientists.
0:13:30 > 0:13:35Individual disciplines often reach the limits of their intuitive thinking
0:13:35 > 0:13:38and with the cross-fertilisation
0:13:38 > 0:13:42of mathematicians and physicists and chemists,
0:13:42 > 0:13:46we can be stimulated to take the subject forward
0:13:46 > 0:13:48in a way that may not be possible elsewhere.
0:13:51 > 0:13:55This kind of approach is saving lives all over the world,
0:13:55 > 0:14:01by reducing the time it takes to treat the killer disease, tuberculosis.
0:14:01 > 0:14:03And it does this by drawing on the skills
0:14:03 > 0:14:05of the department of astrophysics.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08They're used to modelling the sun and...
0:14:08 > 0:14:10I don't understand much about it.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13Plasma fluxes within the sun, and that's very complicated.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16And they use very complicated mathematical models to do that.
0:14:16 > 0:14:18TB treatment is complicated too,
0:14:18 > 0:14:21so we're using their skills and working with them,
0:14:21 > 0:14:24to try and understand what we would need to do
0:14:24 > 0:14:27to shorten the treatment from its current length
0:14:27 > 0:14:30to what we want it to be. How would that look?
0:14:30 > 0:14:33We'll get data from that which will inform other colleagues
0:14:33 > 0:14:35who are working on new drugs.
0:14:35 > 0:14:37What's behind your own motivation?
0:14:37 > 0:14:39To what extent is that your Christian faith?
0:14:39 > 0:14:41Well, it's certainly one of the reasons
0:14:41 > 0:14:44why I've chosen to work on tuberculosis,
0:14:44 > 0:14:47because TB is a disease of the poor,
0:14:47 > 0:14:49and its a disease that makes people poor.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52And so I think that's a very good thing to be working on.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55But I'm fortunate to work with a wide range of colleagues
0:14:55 > 0:14:58all over the world, of different faiths and of no faiths,
0:14:58 > 0:15:01and it's good to do that, because if we're going to defeat TB,
0:15:01 > 0:15:04the whole world population's got to work on it.
0:15:04 > 0:15:09It's a really difficult problem. So, it's a very exciting thing to be working in.
0:15:10 > 0:15:16# Locus iste
0:15:18 > 0:15:23# A deo factus est
0:15:23 > 0:15:29# Locus iste
0:15:29 > 0:15:35# A deo factus est
0:15:37 > 0:15:40# A deo
0:15:40 > 0:15:46# A deo factus est
0:15:46 > 0:15:53# Inaestimabile
0:15:55 > 0:15:59# Sacramentum
0:15:59 > 0:16:02# Inaestimabile
0:16:02 > 0:16:07# Inaestimabile
0:16:07 > 0:16:12# Sacramentum
0:16:19 > 0:16:25# Irreprehensibilis est
0:16:25 > 0:16:29# Irreprehensibilis est
0:16:29 > 0:16:35# Irreprehensibilis est
0:16:35 > 0:16:41# Irreprehensibilis est
0:16:42 > 0:16:48# Locus iste
0:16:50 > 0:16:54# A deo factus est
0:16:55 > 0:17:01# Locus iste
0:17:03 > 0:17:08# A deo factus est
0:17:09 > 0:17:12# A deo
0:17:13 > 0:17:15# Deo
0:17:15 > 0:17:23# Deo
0:17:29 > 0:17:32# A deo
0:17:32 > 0:17:36# Deo
0:17:36 > 0:17:43# Factus
0:17:43 > 0:17:47# Est. #
0:17:48 > 0:17:50'One, two, three, four.'
0:17:53 > 0:17:57Richard Michael is professor of jazz improvisation
0:17:57 > 0:17:59at St Andrews university.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02You did exactly the right thing. You started to move.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06- ORGAN MUSIC - He also plays in his local church.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11Where his music choices can sometimes raise a smile.
0:18:11 > 0:18:16I'm here in church as an organist, to enhance what our minister does.
0:18:16 > 0:18:17And sometimes
0:18:17 > 0:18:20I feel inspired by a sermon,
0:18:20 > 0:18:24and I've no idea what I'm going to play, but I like it like that.
0:18:33 > 0:18:36There are some key words that keep coming up in the Bible.
0:18:36 > 0:18:38One of which is love.
0:18:38 > 0:18:42Now, great love songs. But you've got to play them in the style.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45You can't go playing a love song, I can't play it in the style of Bach.
0:18:45 > 0:18:49I could do... HE PLAYS IN THE STYLE OF BACH
0:18:57 > 0:18:59It actually sounds much better if I go...
0:18:59 > 0:19:01HE PLAYS JAZZ
0:19:12 > 0:19:15And people recognise that, and here's a great love song.
0:19:15 > 0:19:19I mean, we talk about, in the church, cadences.
0:19:19 > 0:19:23A perfect cadence is one that goes... HE PLAYS TWO CHORDS
0:19:23 > 0:19:25But the plagal cadence is the Amen.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27HE PLAYS TWO CHORDS
0:19:27 > 0:19:30OK. That's boring! All right, not, but it's not boring
0:19:30 > 0:19:33when you hear it in this tune.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36HE PLAYS "Let There Be Love"
0:19:40 > 0:19:42Let There Be Love. And when it finishes,
0:19:42 > 0:19:45# But first of all, please
0:19:45 > 0:19:49# Let there be love. # And you go, "Oh, yeah."
0:19:51 > 0:19:53Aha! Whoa!
0:19:54 > 0:19:55Ah!
0:20:01 > 0:20:03Man, it's rocking, you know?
0:20:03 > 0:20:07And I suddenly realise... should I be doing this?
0:20:07 > 0:20:12But I get the feeling as I look around the church, that people go...
0:20:13 > 0:20:14Yeah, I should.
0:20:15 > 0:20:16And I do!
0:20:18 > 0:20:22'Through music, I find things that inspire me
0:20:22 > 0:20:26'and lead me to developing my faith.'
0:20:26 > 0:20:32And if I can do something to give somebody a smile on a Sunday morning,
0:20:32 > 0:20:35or get a kid who's come into Fife Youth Jazz Orchestra,
0:20:35 > 0:20:41play a solo, however many notes that could be improved,
0:20:41 > 0:20:43it doesnae matter. The fact is,
0:20:43 > 0:20:46I've got somebody to do something that they couldn't do before.
0:20:46 > 0:20:49That improves them as a person. It grows.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54Faith gives me the answer that, that's what I'm here for,
0:20:54 > 0:20:56whether I like it or not!
0:23:38 > 0:23:41The kingdom of Fife is a favourite holiday spot.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45As well as its lovely old harbours and sandy beaches,
0:23:45 > 0:23:47there are dozens of golf courses,
0:23:47 > 0:23:50there are views of the sea, the challenge of the wind
0:23:50 > 0:23:53and a very different kind of grass from England's courses.
0:23:53 > 0:23:58Travelling south from St Andrews to Largo, you pass Kingsbarns,
0:23:58 > 0:24:01where the 11th hole offers something of a challenge.
0:24:07 > 0:24:11Further south at Lundin Links, the club steward,
0:24:11 > 0:24:15Janice Cunningham, is a familiar face to the club's many members.
0:24:15 > 0:24:18She manages the club house along with her husband.
0:24:18 > 0:24:23But behind her cheerful exterior lies a series of testing challenges,
0:24:23 > 0:24:28including the tragic loss, 16 years ago of her firstborn son, Noel.
0:24:30 > 0:24:35Well, he was standing near the Royal and Ancient at St Andrews,
0:24:35 > 0:24:39and a freak wave came over and washed him under a hole in the fence
0:24:39 > 0:24:43and he was lost. He was missing for ten days.
0:24:43 > 0:24:46And in that time, people rallied round us,
0:24:46 > 0:24:48and I think God just sent us people.
0:24:48 > 0:24:52Sent us good people with practical solutions
0:24:52 > 0:24:53to the problems that we had.
0:24:53 > 0:24:56And then a few years later, you lost another son.
0:24:56 > 0:25:02Yes, our third child, Lewis. He was 18 and died in a house fire.
0:25:04 > 0:25:06Absolutely shattering.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09You can't pretend that it wasn't, but it was very...
0:25:09 > 0:25:12it was just an awful, awful time.
0:25:12 > 0:25:15But there again, that whole community rallied round us,
0:25:15 > 0:25:19and gave us strength and helped the family.
0:25:19 > 0:25:21Everyone just rallied round.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24And again, the practical things that were needing done.
0:25:24 > 0:25:29Did you never say to yourself, "Where was God when that wave came?
0:25:29 > 0:25:32"Where was God when the house went on fire?"
0:25:32 > 0:25:34I think that's difficult to say,
0:25:34 > 0:25:37that I didn't ask where God was,
0:25:37 > 0:25:40I asked God for the strength to cope with what I'd been given.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42Because I imagine that even now...
0:25:42 > 0:25:45- I mean, grief like that never heals, does it?- No.
0:25:45 > 0:25:49I think people... it's easy to say time's a great healer.
0:25:49 > 0:25:57I think time makes you realise that things go on. You have to move on.
0:25:57 > 0:26:01But you never forget. It's never out of your head.
0:26:01 > 0:26:05And you learn to live with it. You learn to live your life with it
0:26:05 > 0:26:07and it runs alongside your life always.
0:26:07 > 0:26:09And I wouldn't want it any other way.
0:26:09 > 0:26:13I wouldn't like anyone to say that they were gone and forgotten.
0:26:13 > 0:26:15Although they're not with us now.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17They are with us, most definitely with us.
0:26:17 > 0:26:19And God's still there?
0:26:19 > 0:26:22Oh, absolutely. Absolutely.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25I don't like to sound too much like a Holy Willie,
0:26:25 > 0:26:29but He is definitely, I think, always in your life. And...
0:26:30 > 0:26:33..everything, I think, happens for a reason.
0:26:33 > 0:26:35I'd like to know what the reasons really are,
0:26:35 > 0:26:39but I'm sure I'm going to find out sometime.
0:26:56 > 0:27:01# Pie Jesu
0:27:02 > 0:27:08# Pie Jesu
0:27:08 > 0:27:13# Pie Jesu
0:27:13 > 0:27:19# Pie Jesu
0:27:19 > 0:27:27# Qui tollis peccata mundi
0:27:27 > 0:27:34# Dona eis requiem
0:27:34 > 0:27:42# Dona eis requiem
0:27:44 > 0:27:50# Pie Jesu
0:27:50 > 0:27:55# Pie Jesu
0:27:55 > 0:28:01# Pie Jesu
0:28:01 > 0:28:08# Pie Jesu
0:28:08 > 0:28:14# Qui tollis peccata mundi
0:28:14 > 0:28:22# Dona eis requiem
0:28:22 > 0:28:29# Dona eis requiem
0:28:44 > 0:28:50# Agnus Dei
0:28:50 > 0:28:55# Agnus Dei
0:28:55 > 0:29:00# Agnus Dei
0:29:00 > 0:29:06# Agnus Dei
0:29:07 > 0:29:14# Qui tollis peccata mundi
0:29:14 > 0:29:19# Dona eis requiem
0:29:21 > 0:29:28# Dona eis requiem
0:29:30 > 0:29:34# Sempiternam
0:29:36 > 0:29:41# Sempiternam
0:29:41 > 0:29:44# Requiem
0:29:44 > 0:29:51# Sempiternam. #
0:30:05 > 0:30:09We thank you for your hidden hand,
0:30:09 > 0:30:13guiding us through the surprises of our lives' journeys.
0:30:18 > 0:30:21We thank you for the instinct you have given us
0:30:21 > 0:30:24to find new ways to care for each other.
0:30:32 > 0:30:36We thank you for carrying us through the dark nights to the dawn
0:30:36 > 0:30:40and the sunrise which brings new light and hope.
0:33:19 > 0:33:22Next week, our last from the kingdom of Fife,
0:33:22 > 0:33:25a scientist who knows how the sun works,
0:33:25 > 0:33:30a story of hope after a freak lifeboat accident,
0:33:30 > 0:33:34and more great hymns from Dunfermline and St Andrews.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:33:40 > 0:33:43E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk