Y Sloop, Porthgain

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0:00:24 > 0:00:26- Welcome to Straeon Tafarn...

0:00:27 > 0:00:31- ..with me, the childish poet - of Wales, Dewi Pws Morris.

0:00:35 > 0:00:39- Nothing beats travelling - the country in the van.

0:00:39 > 0:00:42- Blue sky, blue sea, - flowers in bloom.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44- I'll meet some characters...

0:00:45 > 0:00:48- ..and end the day - in a pub with the band.

0:00:48 > 0:00:49- CAR HORN

0:00:49 > 0:00:51- CAR HORN- - How are you?

0:00:51 > 0:00:54- I'm touring Wales - with the band Radwm.

0:00:55 > 0:01:00- Before each gig, - I like to learn about our venue.

0:01:03 > 0:01:04- Where are we going today?

0:01:05 > 0:01:11- The first clue is that it rhymes - with wine and starts with Port.

0:01:16 > 0:01:21- The second clue is that it was once - a very busy harbour.

0:01:24 > 0:01:29- The third clue is that these bricks - have been all over the world.

0:01:30 > 0:01:32- I've forgotten where I'm going!

0:01:36 > 0:01:40- Here we are - Porthgain - in northern Pembrokeshire.

0:01:46 > 0:01:52- It's home to the Sloop Inn, - where Radwm and I perform tonight.

0:01:54 > 0:01:57- How did the pub get its name?

0:01:57 > 0:02:01- Morgan the landlord explained, - and he's quite a character.

0:02:01 > 0:02:04- A sloop is a boat - with only one mast.

0:02:07 > 0:02:11- But there are two masts - on the sign outside.

0:02:11 > 0:02:16- The sign was painted - by Alun from across the way.

0:02:16 > 0:02:20- I think he was paid by the amount - of paint he used...

0:02:21 > 0:02:24- ..so he added another mast!

0:02:25 > 0:02:28- Morgan said that a sloop - is a boat with one mast...

0:02:28 > 0:02:31- ..but you painted two.

0:02:31 > 0:02:34- He's talking rubbish, - total rubbish!

0:02:34 > 0:02:37- Yes, a sloop is a boat with one mast.

0:02:37 > 0:02:41- I couldn't stay with Alun Whoosh, - as he's known locally...

0:02:41 > 0:02:46- ..as I wanted to meet Roy Lewis, - who was rather irate.

0:02:46 > 0:02:50- The town was originally - called Porth Cain.

0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Only later did it become Porthgain.

0:02:53 > 0:02:56- However, while browsing - the Internet...

0:02:57 > 0:03:00- ..I noticed that some people - referred to it as Chisel Port.

0:03:00 > 0:03:03- I suspect that the English - were responsible.

0:03:03 > 0:03:08- Chisel Port has nothing to do - with Porth Cain.

0:03:08 > 0:03:13- The Cain is the name of the river - that enters this harbour.

0:03:13 > 0:03:15- Afon Cain means fair stream.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- You sent a letter to the newspapers.

0:03:18 > 0:03:20- You sent a letter to the newspapers.- - Yes, I did.

0:03:20 > 0:03:25- I wanted people to know - that the locals weren't to blame.

0:03:25 > 0:03:30- I suspect that those who did it - didn't know any better.

0:03:30 > 0:03:34- I would like to see the return - of the old name of Porth Cain.

0:03:34 > 0:03:38- I'd like to see that too. - Why do things have to change?

0:03:38 > 0:03:42- I can see why the word chisel - is associated with Porthgain.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45- It's full of industrial remains.

0:03:46 > 0:03:50- John Davies, or John Bwlchllan, - educated a mere mortal like me.

0:03:53 > 0:03:57- It's a magical seaside village - with an industrial past.

0:03:57 > 0:04:01- It's odd, because it feels - so remote here.

0:04:01 > 0:04:06- However, we're surrounded - by the remains...

0:04:06 > 0:04:09- ..of three or four - different industries.

0:04:09 > 0:04:14- It was very unusual - at the start of the 19th century...

0:04:14 > 0:04:19- ..for industrial and rural areas - to have separate identities.

0:04:20 > 0:04:25- In the 18th century, it would have - been a simple fishing village.

0:04:25 > 0:04:31- Then they started producing lime - from its substantial lime kiln.

0:04:31 > 0:04:33- Substantial?

0:04:34 > 0:04:37- It's believed - that lime from this kiln...

0:04:37 > 0:04:41- ..was used in the building - of St David's Cathedral.

0:04:41 > 0:04:43- Later, they found slate locally.

0:04:44 > 0:04:48- By 1870, - there were 300 quarrymen here.

0:04:48 > 0:04:56- However, it was poor quality slate - that deteriorated within 30 years.

0:04:57 > 0:04:59- In the north, - each quarry has a name.

0:05:00 > 0:05:01- Do these quarries have names?

0:05:01 > 0:05:03- Do these quarries have names?- - Yes.

0:05:03 > 0:05:07- If you walk across the top, - you'll find the road to Jerusalem.

0:05:08 > 0:05:12- The first quarry was called - Jerusalem, or Jeru to the workers.

0:05:13 > 0:05:16- The second quarry - was named Caersalem.

0:05:16 > 0:05:18- The workers named these quarries.

0:05:18 > 0:05:21- Friends asked each other, - "Where are you working today?"

0:05:22 > 0:05:24- "I'm at Jeru, where are you?" - "Caersalem."

0:05:25 > 0:05:28- They then knew - where each other was working.

0:05:28 > 0:05:31- They were merely local names.

0:05:31 > 0:05:34- Due to the poor quality - of the slate...

0:05:34 > 0:05:38- ..they chose to crush them - and produce bricks.

0:05:39 > 0:05:40- Let's have a look at this.

0:05:40 > 0:05:43- Let's have a look at this.- - It bears the Porthgain name.

0:05:43 > 0:05:47- These are very heavy bricks.

0:05:47 > 0:05:52- They were produced - from slate waste and water.

0:05:52 > 0:05:55- The waste was crushed at the mill.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59- The dust was shaped - at the brickworks...

0:06:00 > 0:06:04- ..and baked in the oven - before being exported.

0:06:05 > 0:06:10- As more bricks were sold, - they were stamped with the name.

0:06:10 > 0:06:13- You're more likely to find - a Porthgain brick in Bristol...

0:06:14 > 0:06:15- ..than in Porthgain!

0:06:15 > 0:06:19- Porthgain bricks - travelled even further than Bristol.

0:06:20 > 0:06:25- Some went as far as London, - to build the Tate Gallery.

0:06:26 > 0:06:29- But all good things come to an end.

0:06:30 > 0:06:34- There was a network of railways - within this industrial landscape...

0:06:35 > 0:06:37- ..connecting Porthgain - and Abereiddy.

0:06:37 > 0:06:43- However, they weren't linked - to the national railway network.

0:06:43 > 0:06:47- A line to Haverfordwest or Fishguard - would have been very useful.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50- The roads were also quite poor.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53- Their reliance on the sea ended...

0:06:53 > 0:06:57- ..when larger ships - couldn't dock in the harbour.

0:06:57 > 0:06:59- The site didn't have a future.

0:06:59 > 0:07:03- We're talking about a short period - from 1850 to 1920.

0:07:03 > 0:07:08- It was only an important - industrial site for 70 years.

0:07:10 > 0:07:15- In 1931, - Porthgain's world fell apart.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18- A letter addressed - to the 300 workers...

0:07:18 > 0:07:21- ..came from the manager - of the brickworks, Mr Crone.

0:07:21 > 0:07:26- It stated that Porthgain brickworks - was closing.

0:07:27 > 0:07:30- "Immediately upon receipt - of this letter...

0:07:30 > 0:07:34- "..will you please stand off - everyone excepting your clerk.

0:07:34 > 0:07:37- "We'll probably be requiring - a loading gang...

0:07:37 > 0:07:40- "..for limited shipments - at an early date.

0:07:40 > 0:07:44- "This information, - you may, if you wish...

0:07:44 > 0:07:47- "..pass to the men concerned...

0:07:47 > 0:07:51- "..but it must be understood - that they are not kept on."

0:07:51 > 0:07:55- No mention of redundancy pay - or a month's notice.

0:07:55 > 0:07:59- It was "if you wish" or - "you might like to tell them"...

0:07:59 > 0:08:03- ..but they must be told - that work is finished and that's it!

0:08:03 > 0:08:04- Thank you and that's it!

0:08:04 > 0:08:06- Thank you and that's it!- - Thank you and goodbye.

0:08:07 > 0:08:11- The boys were on the dole - for quite a while.

0:08:11 > 0:08:16- The dole office visited Porthgain - once a week to pay them.

0:08:16 > 0:08:21- There was no transport, so the boys - had to walk to the office.

0:08:21 > 0:08:26- They dressed in caps and ties - to collect their dole.

0:08:26 > 0:08:30- People travelled from afar - to collect their dole.

0:08:30 > 0:08:33- Yes, there was no such thing - as sending a cheque by post.

0:08:34 > 0:08:37- If you were on the dole, - you had to collect it yourself.

0:08:38 > 0:08:40- How did all of this affect the area?

0:08:40 > 0:08:45- Many left the area to find work - and others went to sea.

0:08:46 > 0:08:48- There was no work here.

0:08:48 > 0:08:52- Some of them became poachers, - or labourers at nearby farms.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55- In the face of adversity, - they stood up.

0:08:56 > 0:08:57- Are any of these boys left?

0:08:57 > 0:09:00- Are any of these boys left?- - No, they've all gone.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03- I spoke to a number - of the older residents...

0:09:03 > 0:09:07- ..but I regret not speaking - more with them.

0:09:07 > 0:09:09- They could tell the story.

0:09:09 > 0:09:15- None of them remain, but the voice - of one quarryman is on record.

0:09:16 > 0:09:18- This is George Walters...

0:09:18 > 0:09:21- ..one of the last quarrymen - at Porthgain.

0:09:22 > 0:09:28- Everyone at Porthgain - had a nickname.

0:09:28 > 0:09:33- They came very easily - when you went underground.

0:09:34 > 0:09:38- A man went underground - for the first time.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40- He approached a collier.

0:09:41 > 0:09:46- "Oh, this is a hellish place - to work," he said to the collier.

0:09:46 > 0:09:50- From that moment, - he was called Dai Hellish.

0:09:50 > 0:09:52- "Where's your father, Lilian?"

0:09:53 > 0:09:55- "He's out in Frisco," she replied.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59- He was known as Frisco - from that day.

0:09:59 > 0:10:01- She couldn't pronounce - San Francisco.

0:10:02 > 0:10:05- I can hardly say it myself.

0:10:05 > 0:10:09- I think I know - where my nickname came from.

0:10:09 > 0:10:12- Cardiff... Cardiff.

0:10:13 > 0:10:18- I was called Cardiff as I spoke - of my time as a lorry driver...

0:10:18 > 0:10:21- ..and the lorry broke down - in Cardiff.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24- I became known as Cardiff.

0:10:25 > 0:10:28- We all had nicknames. All of us.

0:10:30 > 0:10:31- .

0:10:38 > 0:10:38- 888

0:10:38 > 0:10:40- 888- - 888

0:10:42 > 0:10:44- It's great touring Wales - with the band.

0:10:44 > 0:10:47- I can't wait for the gig - at the Sloop Inn tonight.

0:10:48 > 0:10:52- I didn't realize that Porthgain - had such a wealth of history.

0:10:53 > 0:10:59- It isn't all slate and bricks - - one nautical tale could be a film!

0:11:03 > 0:11:05- America is over there.

0:11:05 > 0:11:10- In the summer of 1876, - Alfred Centennial Johnson...

0:11:10 > 0:11:14- ..set sail from Massachusetts - to Liverpool in a fishing boat.

0:11:17 > 0:11:19- His boat wasn't much bigger - than this one.

0:11:20 > 0:11:22- What on earth was he thinking?

0:11:23 > 0:11:27- Things were going swimmingly - after 3,000 miles...

0:11:27 > 0:11:32- ..until one day, - he turned right instead of left!

0:11:35 > 0:11:39- After two long, - tiring, lonely months...

0:11:40 > 0:11:45- ..Alfred landed - on Pembrokeshire's north coast...

0:11:45 > 0:11:48- ..just around the corner from here.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53- He was barely alive when he landed.

0:11:54 > 0:11:58- He was so weak that the locals - threw him over their shoulders...

0:11:58 > 0:12:01- ..and took him to the nearest pub.

0:12:04 > 0:12:08- He was here for two whole days.

0:12:08 > 0:12:11- I like to think he was in here.

0:12:12 > 0:12:15- Alfred Centennial Johnson...

0:12:15 > 0:12:19- ..was the first man to sail solo - from America to Wales...

0:12:19 > 0:12:22- ..in his fishing boat.

0:12:22 > 0:12:25- I'm enjoying these nautical tales.

0:12:25 > 0:12:30- When I bumped into Rob, a local - fisherman, I heard another story.

0:12:30 > 0:12:31- The Carolina landed here.

0:12:32 > 0:12:34- What was it?

0:12:35 > 0:12:39- A ketch sailing out of Ireland - that got caught in a hurricane.

0:12:40 > 0:12:44- It was all the skipper could do - to keep the boat upright.

0:12:44 > 0:12:46- He knew of Porthgain...

0:12:46 > 0:12:50- ..and sailed straight up the beach - and saved everyone on board.

0:12:50 > 0:12:53- The plaque from the Carolina - hangs in the Sloop.

0:12:54 > 0:12:57- Rob's family - were originally from North Wales.

0:12:57 > 0:13:02- They walked from Bethesda - to Porthgain to find work.

0:13:03 > 0:13:06- That's over 150 miles.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09- They came to Porthgain - for the slate...

0:13:10 > 0:13:14- ..but the slate lacked quality, - so they started in the quarry.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18- I got into the fishing industry...

0:13:18 > 0:13:22- ..because they kept a few pots - and lived on crabs and lobsters.

0:13:23 > 0:13:27- They worked in the quarry - but went fishing at night.

0:13:27 > 0:13:31- My grandfather was the last - trainee pilot of Porthgain.

0:13:31 > 0:13:33- The old pilot house still stands.

0:13:33 > 0:13:39- The pilot would guide a ship - into the dock.

0:13:39 > 0:13:42- He would do this - on the ship's first visit.

0:13:42 > 0:13:45- After that, the captain - was expected to know his way.

0:13:45 > 0:13:49- The pilot carried out most - of his work on the dockside.

0:13:49 > 0:13:51- He showed the ships where to dock.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55- The stones arrived - on the dockside...

0:13:55 > 0:13:58- ..and were of varying size.

0:13:59 > 0:14:01- If the boat had docked - on the wrong side...

0:14:01 > 0:14:07- ..they had to fill the trams - and carry them to the other side.

0:14:07 > 0:14:11- The boats were assisted - by two white pointers.

0:14:12 > 0:14:16- One is round and the one - on the other side is square.

0:14:16 > 0:14:19- They knew where they where - from the pillars.

0:14:20 > 0:14:21- From the white pillars, yes.

0:14:21 > 0:14:24- These guided the ships - into the harbour.

0:14:25 > 0:14:27- Yes, and they moored here.

0:14:27 > 0:14:31- I tried and tried to get - a free lobster, but I failed...

0:14:32 > 0:14:34- ..and he isn't even a Cardi!

0:14:34 > 0:14:38- I returned to the Sloop to hear - a wartime story from Morgan.

0:14:38 > 0:14:40- He remembered the period well!

0:14:41 > 0:14:45- Some of the old folk - said that during the war...

0:14:45 > 0:14:48- ..they remember a boat arriving.

0:14:48 > 0:14:51- A German ship had anchored offshore.

0:14:52 > 0:14:57- Two sailors rowed into the harbour - late one evening...

0:14:58 > 0:15:04- ..and enjoyed a pint at the pub - and nobody noticed them.

0:15:04 > 0:15:07- Are you telling me that two Germans - came here and asked...

0:15:08 > 0:15:11- .."Ein, zwei pint, danke. - Deutschen hassen"...

0:15:12 > 0:15:14- ..and nobody knew they were German?

0:15:14 > 0:15:19- Maybe the bar was full of English - folk who thought it was Welsh!

0:15:22 > 0:15:27- # I live in a happy country - in my cottage by the shore

0:15:27 > 0:15:32- # Near the sea and waves - with my wife and Mot the dog

0:15:32 > 0:15:36- # A mile up the valley, - safely at the foot of the hill

0:15:37 > 0:15:40- # There's a remote village - where nobody lives

0:15:41 > 0:15:45- # The people have left - and the school is closed

0:15:45 > 0:15:51- # But aliens go there - on holiday every May #

0:15:51 > 0:15:55- The aliens in Porthgain in the 1980s - was the English company Staines.

0:15:55 > 0:15:59- # The aliens have bought - our little village #

0:16:00 > 0:16:04- The company owned Porthgain's - business premises and workers' homes.

0:16:04 > 0:16:08- On a sunny, summer morning, a dark - cloud descended over the village...

0:16:09 > 0:16:11- ..when the buildings went on sale.

0:16:12 > 0:16:17- Who would want to change this place - and change its appearance?

0:16:17 > 0:16:20- It would only be a businessman

0:16:20 > 0:16:22- I doubt they would fit in here.

0:16:23 > 0:16:27- It would be a tragedy if it fell - into the hands of a person...

0:16:29 > 0:16:32- ..who wanted to strip the place - and make a quick buck.

0:16:33 > 0:16:36- Alun Whoosh - still lives in the village.

0:16:36 > 0:16:39- Like me, he hasn't aged at all.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41- I don't know about that.

0:16:42 > 0:16:45- A friend from London phoned me...

0:16:45 > 0:16:51- ..to tell me of an article - about a village in West Wales...

0:16:51 > 0:16:56- ..for sale in the Yachting News - or some such magazine.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59- It set the alarm bells - ringing straight away.

0:16:59 > 0:17:01- It came out of nowhere.

0:17:02 > 0:17:05- People were living their lives, - minding their own business...

0:17:05 > 0:17:07- ..and this happened.

0:17:07 > 0:17:11- We formed the Porthgain Association.

0:17:12 > 0:17:17- We met and signed up - people with money to spare.

0:17:17 > 0:17:21- We entered a bid - and thought we stood a chance.

0:17:22 > 0:17:23- It was a worrying time.

0:17:23 > 0:17:27- They had to buy the whole village - because there were no lots.

0:17:28 > 0:17:33- It was a private process - with sealed bids.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35- They then prayed for the best.

0:17:36 > 0:17:39- You all came together - and bought the village.

0:17:39 > 0:17:45- Yes, the headlands, - brickworks, crushing plant...

0:17:45 > 0:17:48- ..this row of houses - and two other homes.

0:17:48 > 0:17:50- Who lived there at the time?

0:17:50 > 0:17:52- Who lived there at the time?- - Locals.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55- I think Rob Jones was there.

0:17:55 > 0:17:57- Four of us lived in this row.

0:17:57 > 0:18:03- How did you feel when you heard - that your bid had been accepted?

0:18:03 > 0:18:05- It was a wonderful day.

0:18:09 > 0:18:13- At the time, there were rumours...

0:18:13 > 0:18:16- ..that the highest bid - wasn't the winning bid...

0:18:16 > 0:18:19- ..but the villagers - secured the village.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22- Well done, boys, - it was a night to remember...

0:18:23 > 0:18:26- ..just like many other nights - hosted by Ruth.

0:18:26 > 0:18:32- Saturday nights were Ruth at the - organ, basket meals available.

0:18:32 > 0:18:37- We called her Gran, and she said - that she didn't think it was fair.

0:18:38 > 0:18:43- I said that singing on a Saturday - night attracted customers.

0:18:43 > 0:18:48- "Yes, but it's not fair that you - have to do basket meals too."

0:18:49 > 0:18:53- Everyone had heard - of Ruth Barker's nights at The Sloop.

0:18:53 > 0:18:57- New Year's Eve attracted visitors - from Llanelli and Cardiff.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00- # The gull is watching

0:19:01 > 0:19:05- # Over the beach and golden sands #

0:19:05 > 0:19:07- One New Year's Eve...

0:19:07 > 0:19:11- ..the locals decided - to have the Sloop to themselves.

0:19:11 > 0:19:14- They pretended that the inn was shut.

0:19:14 > 0:19:18- # The hands are now idle #

0:19:18 > 0:19:21- We hid behind the curtains - at the Sloop...

0:19:21 > 0:19:25- ..and watched a mass of cars - arriving at Porthgain.

0:19:25 > 0:19:29- They saw the notice and either - went home or found somewhere else.

0:19:29 > 0:19:34- We had a wonderful night - with candles and an open fire.

0:19:34 > 0:19:39- I sat at the piano, the villagers - sang with me and it was special.

0:19:39 > 0:19:43- I hope we have a special night too.

0:19:43 > 0:19:48- Radwm have time to enjoy a coffee - before the performance.

0:19:48 > 0:19:52- The song that Alun, Morgan - and the crew wanted to hear was...

0:19:52 > 0:19:57- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're beautiful - - sing along!

0:19:58 > 0:20:01- # Lleucu Llwyd, - you are precious to me

0:20:03 > 0:20:08- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:20:09 > 0:20:13- # Lleucu Llwyd, I love you

0:20:14 > 0:20:18- # Oh! I remember meeting you

0:20:20 > 0:20:24- # And I remember the rain

0:20:25 > 0:20:30- # Is the nightingale in the wood?

0:20:30 > 0:20:34- # Are the flowers - in the nearby field?

0:20:36 > 0:20:39- # The river holds the secret

0:20:41 > 0:20:45- # Of your first kiss

0:20:46 > 0:20:51- # In the wood, the flowers

0:20:52 > 0:20:57- # Are whispering your name - - here we go!

0:20:57 > 0:21:02- # Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:21:02 > 0:21:07- # Lleucu Llwyd, - you are precious to me

0:21:07 > 0:21:12- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:21:13 > 0:21:17- # Lleucu Llwyd, I love you

0:21:18 > 0:21:23- # Oh the small hours pass

0:21:24 > 0:21:28- # Like an instant on the wind's wing

0:21:29 > 0:21:33- # If I lie on my bed

0:21:34 > 0:21:37- # Perhaps the dream will come sooner

0:21:39 > 0:21:42- # Someone is drawing near

0:21:45 > 0:21:49- # I hear the creak of the gate

0:21:49 > 0:21:54- # And I recognize - the sound of the shoes

0:21:55 > 0:22:00- # They belong to Lleucu Llwyd! - - sing with me!

0:22:00 > 0:22:04- # Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:22:05 > 0:22:09- # Lleucu Llwyd, - you are precious to me

0:22:10 > 0:22:15- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:22:15 > 0:22:20- # Lleucu Llwyd, I love you #

0:22:23 > 0:22:25- Oh, I enjoyed that gig.

0:22:26 > 0:22:27- Porthgain.

0:22:27 > 0:22:29- "Entertaining pleasant days

0:22:29 > 0:22:32- "The sound of the sea - and the sunny haze

0:22:32 > 0:22:34- "Funny stories, music fine

0:22:35 > 0:22:38- "And the company of the people - of Porthgain."

0:22:38 > 0:22:39- Goodnight.

0:22:40 > 0:22:41- All together...

0:22:41 > 0:22:46- # Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:22:47 > 0:22:51- # Lleucu Llwyd, - you're worth the world to me

0:22:52 > 0:22:56- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:22:57 > 0:23:03- # Lleucu Llwyd, - I love you, you, you #

0:23:08 > 0:23:09- CHEERING

0:23:09 > 0:23:11- CHEERING- - Thank you very much.

0:23:11 > 0:23:11- CHEERING

0:23:11 > 0:23:13- S4C subtitles by Tinopolis

0:23:14 > 0:23:14- .