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0:00:25 > 0:00:29- Welcome to Straeon Tafarn, - with me, Dewi Pws Morris...
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- ..the man from Tresaith on tour!
0:00:35 > 0:00:37- While touring Wales with Radwm...
0:00:38 > 0:00:42- ..I'm visiting interesting pubs - to hear local stories.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48- Today, I'm far from home - in unfamiliar territory.
0:00:50 > 0:00:54- Wales's most famous love story - comes from this area.
0:00:54 > 0:00:58- I wouldn't be surprised if you're - in tears by the end of the show...
0:00:58 > 0:01:01- ..and not because of my singing!
0:01:05 > 0:01:08- Pagans also live in the area.
0:01:08 > 0:01:13- They enjoy parading around - with horse skulls at Christmas time.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18- # Fair dove on blue, - far glancing wing
0:01:18 > 0:01:21- # Be thou love's loyal servant #
0:01:22 > 0:01:27- This verse was composed - by the poet Dafydd Nicolas...
0:01:27 > 0:01:30- ..who was a teacher in this area.
0:01:31 > 0:01:36- I'm visiting the ancient parish - of Llangynwyd in Glamorganshire.
0:01:36 > 0:01:41- Tonight, I'm performing - at The Cornerhouse Inn.
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- It's next to St Cynwyd's church, - one of the oldest churches in Wales.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- Hasn't Dai Sgaffalde - done a good job!?
0:02:03 > 0:02:07- Alan James dropped by to tell me - about the area's history.
0:02:08 > 0:02:10- How did the village get its name?
0:02:11 > 0:02:16- Many villages in Glamorganshire - were named after a saint.
0:02:16 > 0:02:20- The name Llangynwyd - derives from Saint Cynwyd.
0:02:20 > 0:02:25- Not much is known about the saint, - but his pedigree is mentioned.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28- Traditionally, - villages in this district...
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- ..formed around the local church.
0:02:32 > 0:02:37- Churchgoers built villages - surrounding the churches.
0:02:37 > 0:02:42- In addition to a church, - a village pub was required.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- However, this is a church - with a difference.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50- According to Alan, it has - the largest cemetery in Europe.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Maybe there's something in the air!
0:02:53 > 0:02:59- He also mentioned a famous visitor - to the village.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03- It's rumoured that Iolo Morganwg - passed through here...
0:03:03 > 0:03:07- ..while visiting various villages - in the district.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- He enjoyed a meal - at one of the local taverns...
0:03:12 > 0:03:15- ..and visited the cemetery.
0:03:16 > 0:03:21- Even I've heard of Iolo Morganwg, - who was quite a character!
0:03:21 > 0:03:27- Alan also mentioned an individual - I hadn't heard of - Cadrawd.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29- He lived in the village...
0:03:29 > 0:03:35- ..and recorded - much of Llangynwyd's history...
0:03:35 > 0:03:38- ..as well as other stories - associated with Glamorgan.
0:03:39 > 0:03:45- He wrote History Of Llangynwyd, - which was published in 1887.
0:03:45 > 0:03:49- In this book, - he mentioned the local tale...
0:03:50 > 0:03:53- ..of Wil Hopcyn and Ann Thomas, - the Maid of Cefn Ydfa.
0:03:54 > 0:03:59- We'll return to that story later, - because I've got a date.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03- Eirwen Richards - from the local chapel...
0:04:03 > 0:04:08- ..can't wait to tell me - about Samuel Jones.
0:04:09 > 0:04:12- He was a North Walian - who graduated from Oxford...
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- ..and was ordained - in Taunton, Somerset.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18- He became the vicar of Llangynwyd.
0:04:18 > 0:04:23- Samuel was quite a rebel - and walked out of his job.
0:04:23 > 0:04:28- He wasn't thrown out, he walked out. - That's an important distinction.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- Samuel refused to conform...
0:04:31 > 0:04:35- ..to the terms - of the 1662 Act of Uniformity.
0:04:35 > 0:04:40- Local people consider 1662 - to be an important year.
0:04:41 > 0:04:42- Why is this?
0:04:42 > 0:04:47- People refused to conform - to the doctrines of the Church.
0:04:47 > 0:04:52- The Book of Common Prayer - introduced set services.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- There were many Nonconformists - during this period.
0:04:56 > 0:05:02- It was the dawn of a new era - for religion in Wales.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- Samuel walked out - and took the rebels with him!
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- Yes, and he opened - a theological academy.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- The theological colleges - of Swansea...
0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..and Brecon...
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- ..and even - the University of Wales...
0:05:21 > 0:05:25- ..stem from Brynllywarch Academy, - and we're proud of this fact.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- You have a right - to be proud, Eirwen!
0:05:29 > 0:05:33- Following our conversation, - I ventured to the cemetery.
0:05:34 > 0:05:35- It's my age!
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- I wanted to find - Samuel Jones's grave.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- From the pulpit - to the coal mine.
0:05:44 > 0:05:46- This is Vernon Hartshorn's grave.
0:05:47 > 0:05:51- He was the first collier - to become a cabinet minister.
0:05:52 > 0:05:57- Inside the church, - we find the grave of Ann Thomas.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- She's the famous Maid of Cefn Ydfa.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03- There's something - quite peculiar here.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05- I'm not an academic historian...
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- ..but isn't it odd that - Ann's sweetheart, Wil Hopcyn...
0:06:10 > 0:06:13- ..is buried outside the church?
0:06:14 > 0:06:16- Gareth Huw Ifan - explained the story.
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- She was the heiress - of the wealthy Cefn Ydfa farm.
0:06:21 > 0:06:24- Wil Hopcyn - came to thatch their roof.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28- They fell in love - and would meet secretly.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33- However, Ann's mother, Catherine - disapproved of the relationship.
0:06:34 > 0:06:39- She wanted Ann to marry a lawyer, - Anthony Maddocks from Cwmrisca.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- Catherine forbade Ann - from seeing Wil...
0:06:44 > 0:06:50- ..but the couple wrote to each other - and arranged secret trysts.
0:06:50 > 0:06:54- However, one of the housemaids - took a liking to Wil...
0:06:54 > 0:07:00- ..and told Catherine - about the love letters.
0:07:00 > 0:07:05- As a result, Catherine removed - Ann's stationery and pens.
0:07:05 > 0:07:10- The story mentions - a sycamore tree...
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- ..that still grows - on the farm today.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- Ann removed some leaves...
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- ..pricked her skin - with a hairpin...
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- ..and wrote messages - on the leaves in blood.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28- Catherine made sure that Wil - wasn't employed in the area.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33- Ann had no choice - but to marry Anthony Maddocks.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- They got married - and Ann had a baby...
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- ..but she fell ill - during childbirth.
0:07:41 > 0:07:46- Catherine did everything to get - Wil back and save her daughter.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51- He travelled from Bristol - on horseback...
0:07:51 > 0:07:55- ..back to Cefn Ydfa at night.
0:07:55 > 0:08:01- Wil arrived at Ann's bedside - and she passed away in his arms.
0:08:01 > 0:08:04- That's heartbreaking, Gareth!
0:08:07 > 0:08:09- It's an incredible love story.
0:08:10 > 0:08:12- Wil Hopcyn wrote about - the relationship...
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- ..in one of the greatest - Welsh love songs...
0:08:16 > 0:08:18- ..Bugeilio'r Gwenith Gwyn.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22- # Bugeilio'r Gwenith Gwyn #
0:08:22 > 0:08:25- Oh, wasn't that nice?
0:08:25 > 0:08:30- However, as Alan explains, - there are doubts about the story.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- Ann Thomas and Wil Hopcyn are cited - in the early 18th century...
0:08:36 > 0:08:40- ..but it's difficult - to find a link between them.
0:08:40 > 0:08:45- The marriage of Ann Thomas - to Anthony Maddocks is recorded...
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- ..whereas Ann's relationship - with Wil is not documented.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53- I'm reminded of an incident - with TH Parry-Williams...
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- ..when a person approached him - at a forum and asked...
0:08:57 > 0:09:03- .."Are you implying that there are - such things as fairies?"
0:09:04 > 0:09:07- He replied, - "Oh, no, but they do exist."
0:09:09 > 0:09:12- It's an interesting debate.
0:09:12 > 0:09:17- I can understand why locals - believe in this legend.
0:09:17 > 0:09:22- It belongs to their local tradition - and is important to the village.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- I'm fond of fairies - - I've met a few!
0:09:29 > 0:09:32- I love the story - and the song that accompanies it.
0:09:32 > 0:09:37- As we poets say, - that Alan is a clever bloke.
0:09:37 > 0:09:40- He knows the origin of the song too!
0:09:40 > 0:09:45- Two versions of the song appear - in Iolo Morganwg's manuscripts.
0:09:46 > 0:09:49- They also appear - in the 1844 publication...
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- ..Ancient National Airs - Of Gwent And Morganwg.
0:09:53 > 0:09:58- A year later, an article appeared - in The Cambrian newspaper...
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- ..by the wife of the vicar - of Llangynwyd, Pendril Llewelyn.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- That linked the song with the story - of the Maid of Cefn Ydfa.
0:10:08 > 0:10:11- From that point, the song - was associated with the tale.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18- "A simple youthful lad am I - Who lives at fancy's pleasure.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- "I fondly watch the blooming wheat, - Another reaps the treasure.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27- "Oh! Wherefore still despise my - suit, why sighing keep thy lover?
0:10:27 > 0:10:33- "For some new charm, thou matchless - fair, I day by day discover.
0:10:34 > 0:10:40- "You're fairer with each passing day - Unless my eyes deceive me
0:10:40 > 0:10:46- "May He who made your countenance - Endow me with His mercy.
0:10:46 > 0:10:52- "Raise your head and turn your eyes, - Give me your hand this evening.
0:10:53 > 0:10:59- "The key to unlock my aching heart - Lies in your warm embracing.
0:10:59 > 0:11:06- "While hair adorns this aching brow - Still I will love sincerely
0:11:06 > 0:11:11- "While ocean rolls its briny flow, - Still I will love thee dearly.
0:11:11 > 0:11:16- "Then tell the truth, in secret - tell, and under seal discover
0:11:17 > 0:11:23- "If it be I or who is blest - As thy true heart's best lover."
0:11:27 > 0:11:32- The Maid of Cefn Ydfa is a tragic - but classic love story.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36- A wealthy family ban their daughter - from marrying a commoner.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- There's heartache, an unhappy - marriage and a life cut short.
0:11:42 > 0:11:44- When will we learn?
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0:11:48 > 0:11:49- 888- - 888
0:11:52 > 0:11:57- I love touring with Radwm, meeting - locals and hearing their stories.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- This area of Wales - is steeped in ancient history.
0:12:01 > 0:12:06- The remains of the Roman invasion - are still visible today.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10- They failed to conquer us - because we hid in the woods!
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- There's something other-worldly - about this place.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23- I'm quite fond of areas - with long-established pubs.
0:12:23 > 0:12:29- You can guarantee that old pubs - are haunted by ghosts.
0:12:32 > 0:12:35- Sometimes, they lock this door - at night...
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- ..and by the morning, it's open.
0:12:43 > 0:12:49- Men have appeared in white shirts - or in Cromwellian soldiers' uniform.
0:12:49 > 0:12:55- However, Cromwell's army - never visited this place.
0:12:59 > 0:13:04- Sometimes, the figure of a man - appears in the shadows.
0:13:04 > 0:13:09- However, his face lacks any form.
0:13:13 > 0:13:15- When the pub is empty...
0:13:16 > 0:13:21- ..laughter and shouting - can be heard in the bar.
0:13:26 > 0:13:31- When these strange events happen, - everyone says, "Wil is here."
0:13:31 > 0:13:32- Why Wil?
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- Well, Wil Hopcyn lived here - for a while.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- Since his death, - people claim that his spirit...
0:13:40 > 0:13:45- ..quietly roams The Cornerhouse - at night.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54- Strange occurrences - are common at The Cornerhouse.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- Locals continue to uphold - bizarre traditions.
0:13:58 > 0:14:00- A group arrive at the pub...
0:14:00 > 0:14:04- ..guiding a bloke who's hiding - under a horse's skull and a blanket!
0:14:06 > 0:14:10- # Well, gentle friends, - here we come
0:14:11 > 0:14:14- # To ask may we have leave, - to ask may we have leave
0:14:15 > 0:14:18- # To ask may we have leave to sing
0:14:18 > 0:14:22- # Let us hear, wise men, - the number you are
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- # And what your names may be, - and what your names may be
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- # And what your names may be?
0:14:31 > 0:14:36- # If we may not have leave, - then listen to the song
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- # That tells of our leaving, - that tells of our leaving
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- # That tells of our leaving tonight
0:14:43 > 0:14:48- # Let us hear, sincere men, - from whence you came
0:14:48 > 0:14:53- # What it is you ask, - What it is you ask
0:14:53 > 0:14:57- # What it is you ask, we demand?
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- # There's no hope at all - for Dewi and his friends
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- # To defeat the old Mari, - to defeat the old Mari
0:15:06 > 0:15:09- # To defeat the old Mari tonight
0:15:09 > 0:15:14- # Not a pussy cat, but a leopard - lies here on the carpet
0:15:14 > 0:15:17- # To tame your puppet, - to tame your puppet
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- # To tame your puppet tonight!
0:15:21 > 0:15:25- # Pws and his friends are hopeless
0:15:25 > 0:15:29- # At composing Welsh verses, - at composing Welsh verses
0:15:29 > 0:15:32- # At composing Welsh verses tonight
0:15:32 > 0:15:37- # I prefer to hear - a canary sing today
0:15:37 > 0:15:41- # I'm purring like a cat, - I'm purring like a cat
0:15:41 > 0:15:46- # I'm purring like a cat tonight
0:15:46 > 0:15:48- # Just about!
0:15:48 > 0:15:53- # Oh, tap the barrel - and let it flow freely
0:15:53 > 0:15:57- # Don't pour it too sparingly, - don't pour it too sparingly
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- # Don't pour it - too sparingly tonight #
0:16:04 > 0:16:06- What night does this take place?
0:16:06 > 0:16:11- Traditionally, in mid January, - on the Old New Year's Eve.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- Why has the tradition - remained in this area?
0:16:15 > 0:16:19- The locals have kept - this age-long tradition alive.
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- The Mari Lwyd - is a custom in Llangynwyd.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- I initially heard - about this tradition...
0:16:28 > 0:16:34- ..from my uncle, who lived - in Llwyn Brain as a child.
0:16:34 > 0:16:39- He recalled the Mari Lwyd - coming across Brynllywarch fields.
0:16:39 > 0:16:41- This was over 100 years ago.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46- The Mari Lwyd tradition - is being modernized.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49- It's quite likely - that in the future...
0:16:49 > 0:16:53- ..a car or jeep will escort - the Mari Lwyd around the farms.
0:16:54 > 0:16:59- # To warm the spirit tonight #
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- Come in, boys.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05- I don't know about you, - but I'm totally confused.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- Fortunately, Alan James - knows what's going on...
0:17:09 > 0:17:11- ..so I'll ask him.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14- What's the significance - of these witty rhymes?
0:17:14 > 0:17:18- They were a means - to gain entry into a house.
0:17:18 > 0:17:24- If the Mari Lwyd party was - successful in the rhyme contest...
0:17:24 > 0:17:26- ..they were invited indoors.
0:17:26 > 0:17:30- However, if the inhabitants - were more successful...
0:17:30 > 0:17:33- ..the Mari Lwyd didn't gain entry.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- So, it's a pagan ritual?
0:17:36 > 0:17:42- Yes, it belonged to a world - that relied upon external forces.
0:17:42 > 0:17:48- The same applies - when forecasting the weather.
0:17:48 > 0:17:50- During the winter...
0:17:50 > 0:17:56- ..people had faith that the new year - would herald the spring and growth.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59- What's the true meaning - of the Mari Lwyd?
0:17:59 > 0:18:03- Experts suggest that this ties in - with the horse's head...
0:18:03 > 0:18:05- ..or any other animals...
0:18:06 > 0:18:10- ..that were sacrificed - at different times of the year.
0:18:10 > 0:18:16- Over the winter solstice, - nothing would grow.
0:18:16 > 0:18:22- Sacrifices were offered to secure - new growth in the new year.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- The Mari Lwyd is recognized - as a symbol of this.
0:18:26 > 0:18:30- It's interesting that the custom - has continued in this area.
0:18:30 > 0:18:35- Experts tend to refer - to survivals and revivals.
0:18:35 > 0:18:41- The custom survived in this area - until the First World War.
0:18:41 > 0:18:45- Cadrawd stated in an article...
0:18:45 > 0:18:50- .."the Mari Lwyd has appeared - annually until this year."
0:18:50 > 0:18:56- The year was 1914 or 1915 - when young men went to war.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58- However, the Mari Lwyd continued.
0:18:58 > 0:19:03- Many other customs have gone, - but the Mari Lwyd continues.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- It's as if the Mari Lwyd - represents a bygone era.
0:19:07 > 0:19:12- They continue to practise - this special custom.
0:19:13 > 0:19:16- It's great that people - are keeping old traditions alive.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- They're important.
0:19:19 > 0:19:24- I enjoyed hearing Eirwen's story - about Samuel Jones and his academy.
0:19:24 > 0:19:28- He was also - one of the poets of Tir Iarll.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- Gareth Huw Ifan's - tragic love story was great...
0:19:32 > 0:19:38- ..and where does Alan James - store all that information?
0:19:38 > 0:19:42- The band Radwm - has arrived for the gig.
0:19:42 > 0:19:46- Because Llangynwyd is home - to a great Welsh love story...
0:19:46 > 0:19:49- ..we're performing - the romantic song Elen.
0:19:53 > 0:19:57- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:19:58 > 0:20:01- # Don't be so foolish - as to leave me behind
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- # Elen, I love you
0:20:10 > 0:20:13- # I met her - on the other side of the hill
0:20:14 > 0:20:18- # Where the most - beautiful girls live
0:20:18 > 0:20:23- # But Elen - is the fairest of them all
0:20:23 > 0:20:27- # And I will be her lover
0:20:27 > 0:20:31- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:20:31 > 0:20:36- # Don't be so foolish - as to leave me behind
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- # Elen, I love you
0:20:43 > 0:20:48- # Her cheek is as red - as a robin redbreast
0:20:48 > 0:20:53- # Her hair is as black as a crow
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- # As I watch her walk - through the town
0:20:56 > 0:21:01- # It sets my heart ablaze
0:21:02 > 0:21:05- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- # Don't be so foolish - as to leave me behind
0:21:10 > 0:21:14- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:21:14 > 0:21:17- # Elen, I love you
0:21:18 > 0:21:21- # I followed her - wherever she would go
0:21:22 > 0:21:27- # And in the end - I asked her this question
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- # "Elen, oh Elen, can I marry you?
0:21:31 > 0:21:35- # "Oh, my beloved, I love you."
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- # Don't be so foolish - as to leave me behind
0:21:43 > 0:21:48- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:21:48 > 0:21:51- # Elen, I love you
0:21:52 > 0:21:56- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- # Don't be so foolish - as to leave me behind
0:22:01 > 0:22:04- # Elen, oh Elen, oh Elen, come back
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- # Elen, I love you #
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- APPLAUSE AND CHEERING
0:22:17 > 0:22:20- Oh, I enjoyed that.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- "The tale of the Mari Lwyd - is far from grey
0:22:23 > 0:22:26- "And the story of Cefn Ydfa - filled my day
0:22:26 > 0:22:29- "The evening was grand, - singing with the band
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- "I'm full, let's hit the hay!"
0:22:33 > 0:22:35- Goodnight.
0:22:36 > 0:22:41- # Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful
0:22:41 > 0:22:46- # Lleucu Llwyd, - you're worth the world to me
0:22:46 > 0:22:51- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel
0:22:51 > 0:22:57- # Lleucu Llwyd, - I love, you, you #
0:23:04 > 0:23:06- S4C subtitles by Tinopolis
0:23:06 > 0:23:07- .