Y Ship, Abergwaun

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0:00:25 > 0:00:27- Hello and welcome - to Straeon Tafarn...

0:00:28 > 0:00:32- ..as I, Dewi Pws Morris, - visit pubs across Wales...

0:00:32 > 0:00:35- ..and perform gigs - with the band Radwm.

0:00:38 > 0:00:43- I arrive early to meet the locals - and learn about the area's history.

0:00:46 > 0:00:50- Today, I'm in the Wild West - - in Pembrokeshire.

0:00:51 > 0:00:53- We're lucky to still have the area.

0:00:53 > 0:00:56- We nearly lost it to the French.

0:00:56 > 0:00:58- Je ne sais pas!

0:01:04 > 0:01:06- A number of films - have been made here.

0:01:07 > 0:01:09- CAR HORN

0:01:09 > 0:01:11- CAR HORN- - Sheep... baaa!

0:01:12 > 0:01:14- If you're in the south...

0:01:14 > 0:01:19- ..it's the last place you'll see - before reaching Ireland.

0:01:19 > 0:01:22- Where am I? Fishguard, of course.

0:01:22 > 0:01:26- The pub in question - is The Ship Inn in Lower Fishguard.

0:01:31 > 0:01:34- At a new pub, nothing beats - getting down to business...

0:01:35 > 0:01:37- ..with a local girl.

0:01:38 > 0:01:43- Hedydd reveals a drinking scam - at The Ship Inn in the early 1900s.

0:01:43 > 0:01:46- The police aren't watching, - are they?!

0:01:47 > 0:01:49- Selling alcohol on a Sunday - was illegal.

0:01:49 > 0:01:52- However, they had a system here.

0:01:52 > 0:01:56- Empty beer bottles were left - on the doorstep of the pub.

0:01:56 > 0:02:00- They were miraculously filled - and delivered to local houses.

0:02:00 > 0:02:04- One Sunday morning, - two policemen hid...

0:02:04 > 0:02:08- ..in the Baptist chapel - across the road.

0:02:08 > 0:02:13- The pub was under surveillance - and the landlord was taken to court.

0:02:14 > 0:02:16- He was fined 2...

0:02:16 > 0:02:21- ..and costs of six shillings - and sixpence for running a racket.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23- Moonshine in Fishguard!

0:02:26 > 0:02:29- I like that. Rules are made - to be broken from time to time.

0:02:29 > 0:02:33- As you stroll around the village, - you can't miss the old cannons...

0:02:34 > 0:02:36- ..that were here - long before moonshine.

0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Hedydd explained their significance.

0:02:40 > 0:02:42- That's quite a story!

0:02:42 > 0:02:46- It involves 1,400 French soldiers.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49- It happened - after the French Revolution.

0:02:49 > 0:02:53- They sailed in four galleons - and landed near Strumble Head.

0:02:54 > 0:02:57- It was the period - following the French Revolution.

0:02:57 > 0:03:02- The French were eager to spread - the revolution to Britain.

0:03:04 > 0:03:08- I think that rough seas - forced them to this area.

0:03:08 > 0:03:13- I doubt they intended - to attack Fishguard!

0:03:13 > 0:03:18- The Welsh knew nothing of the attack - until they spotted the four ships.

0:03:19 > 0:03:21- Word had come from St David's.

0:03:21 > 0:03:25- A farmer - must have used his spyglass...

0:03:25 > 0:03:30- ..and noticed the two frigates, - a corvette and a sloop...

0:03:30 > 0:03:34- ..sailing towards the coast - flying British flags.

0:03:34 > 0:03:39- He knew from previous experience - that they were French vessels.

0:03:40 > 0:03:42- There had been a warning...

0:03:42 > 0:03:46- ..but the locals were so stunned - by this attack...

0:03:47 > 0:03:51- ..that their response - was far from professional.

0:03:51 > 0:03:55- There was a lot - of toing and froing...

0:03:55 > 0:04:00- ..before they manned the defences - and won the battle.

0:04:00 > 0:04:02- Was it a ferocious battle?

0:04:02 > 0:04:04- Was it a ferocious battle?- - Definitely.

0:04:04 > 0:04:08- Many were killed, yet the French - also showed some mercy.

0:04:08 > 0:04:12- One young mother - had just given birth.

0:04:12 > 0:04:15- When she was faced with - a fight or flight decision...

0:04:16 > 0:04:19- ..she was unable to flee - because she was too weak.

0:04:19 > 0:04:23- When the soldiers - attacked that farm...

0:04:23 > 0:04:28- ..she showed them her baby - and they left her in peace.

0:04:28 > 0:04:30- Is it true that Jemima Nicholas...

0:04:30 > 0:04:34- ..dressed a group of women - in petticoats to resemble dragoons?

0:04:34 > 0:04:40- It isn't necessarily a bad thing - to take advantage of that story.

0:04:40 > 0:04:42- The story I was taught in school...

0:04:43 > 0:04:45- ..is that the ladies - wore red petticoats...

0:04:46 > 0:04:50- ..and resembled soldiers - from a distance.

0:04:50 > 0:04:54- Jemima Nicholas, a local lady...

0:04:54 > 0:04:59- ..gathered a group of women - in order to attack the French.

0:05:00 > 0:05:02- They brought their captives - to Fishguard.

0:05:03 > 0:05:05- Troops are usually led by men.

0:05:05 > 0:05:07- Was she a colourful character?

0:05:07 > 0:05:09- Was she a colourful character?- - I'm sure she was.

0:05:09 > 0:05:12- We don't know a lot about her...

0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..but she got an annual pension - for her contribution...

0:05:16 > 0:05:19- ..and she lived to a ripe old age.

0:05:20 > 0:05:22- The French arrived by sea.

0:05:22 > 0:05:24- As we gaze around the bar...

0:05:25 > 0:05:29- ..it's obvious - that the sea is a strong influence.

0:05:29 > 0:05:34- I bumped into Martin Lewis, - who had many maritime tales to tell.

0:05:34 > 0:05:38- Lower Fishguard was a busy spot - during the 15th century.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41- Thanks to research, we now know...

0:05:42 > 0:05:46- ..that the area boasted - a wool and cotton industry.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49- But fishing - was the staple industry...

0:05:49 > 0:05:53- ..with the main focus - on the herring industry.

0:05:53 > 0:05:59- It was a thriving industry - at the start of the 19th century.

0:06:00 > 0:06:03- The boats docked in the harbour...

0:06:03 > 0:06:06- ..before the fish were processed - and exported.

0:06:06 > 0:06:09- A gentleman by the name - of Samuel Fenton...

0:06:09 > 0:06:11- ..made regular trips to Italy.

0:06:12 > 0:06:16- He produced smoked herring.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20- It was a livelihood - for many local residents.

0:06:21 > 0:06:26- I estimate that dozens of men - worked in the industry.

0:06:26 > 0:06:29- It was a profitable industry.

0:06:29 > 0:06:31- It made Samuel Fenton a wealthy man.

0:06:32 > 0:06:37- He died a bachelor, but he had - a nephew called Richard Fenton.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40- People might be familiar - with Richard Fenton...

0:06:40 > 0:06:45- ..due to his detailed accounts - of his travels in Pembrokeshire...

0:06:45 > 0:06:49- ..published in A Historical Tour - Through Pembrokeshire.

0:06:49 > 0:06:52- He inherited the wealth - of his uncle, Samuel Fenton.

0:06:53 > 0:06:57- When the herring industry - collapsed...

0:06:58 > 0:07:03- ..he built a large mansion - called Glyn-y-Mel.

0:07:04 > 0:07:09- He did this in order to employ - many of the fishermen...

0:07:09 > 0:07:11- ..who had lost their livelihoods.

0:07:12 > 0:07:16- He built the house - as a means to employ the locals.

0:07:16 > 0:07:20- He saw that people were suffering - and he pitied them.

0:07:21 > 0:07:24- They didn't have any money - due to the herring shortage.

0:07:25 > 0:07:30- In the past, this area boasted - businessmen with a conscience...

0:07:30 > 0:07:32- ..unlike the bankers of today!

0:07:33 > 0:07:36- Maritime heroines are also found.

0:07:36 > 0:07:39- Let's step forward to World War II.

0:07:40 > 0:07:42- The sea can be very cruel.

0:07:42 > 0:07:46- The events of 13th June, 1941...

0:07:46 > 0:07:50- ..are described as the darkest day - in the area's maritime history.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55- The SS St Patrick was a ferry...

0:07:55 > 0:08:00- ..that regularly sailed - between Fishguard and Rosslare.

0:08:02 > 0:08:07- The Germans bombed the ferry - as it returned to Fishguard.

0:08:07 > 0:08:09- It sank suddenly.

0:08:10 > 0:08:15- Thirty people drowned, including - the captain and his 20-year-old son.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23- However, many were saved, - thanks to a brave crew...

0:08:23 > 0:08:26- ..that included the stewardess, - Elizabeth May Owen.

0:08:26 > 0:08:30- May found six passengers - trapped on the bottom deck...

0:08:30 > 0:08:34- ..and led them, one by one, - to the safety of the upper decks.

0:08:34 > 0:08:37- She believed everyone was safe...

0:08:38 > 0:08:41- ..until one more voice - called from the lower deck.

0:08:41 > 0:08:44- She returned for the seventh time.

0:08:45 > 0:08:47- The St Patrick - was sinking quickly...

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- ..so May and the seventh passenger - had to jump into the sea.

0:08:53 > 0:08:58- Amazingly, May kept the seventh - person afloat for two hours...

0:08:59 > 0:09:00- ..until the lifeboat arrived.

0:09:01 > 0:09:04- The government awarded her - the George Medal for her bravery.

0:09:06 > 0:09:11- Yes, the sea can be cruel - and yet even in this tragic tale...

0:09:11 > 0:09:15- ..the story of May Owen - offers a glimmer of hope.

0:09:16 > 0:09:17- .

0:09:19 > 0:09:19- 888

0:09:19 > 0:09:21- 888- - 888

0:09:23 > 0:09:26- I love touring Wales, - meeting the locals...

0:09:26 > 0:09:31- ..and listening to their stories, - which aren't in short supply!

0:09:31 > 0:09:35- Pembrokeshire boasts - a wonderful Welsh dialect.

0:09:35 > 0:09:38- It's full of unique words.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42- Martin was eager to recite a poem - in the local dialect by Dewi Emrys.

0:09:43 > 0:09:48- He wasn't born in Fishguard, - but he grew up in the area.

0:09:48 > 0:09:51- His father - was an Independent minister...

0:09:52 > 0:09:56- ..who came to Rhosycaerau chapel - on Strumble Head...

0:09:56 > 0:10:00- ..when Dewi Emrys - was seven years old.

0:10:00 > 0:10:06- As a result, he spent - the next 15 years of his life here.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12- He wrote a piece of poetry - about Pwllderi.

0:10:13 > 0:10:16- Many consider this piece - about Pwllderi...

0:10:16 > 0:10:22- ..to be the most important poem - written in a Welsh dialect.

0:10:23 > 0:10:25- He was a very talented man.

0:10:26 > 0:10:31- In 1926, he won the Crown - at the Eisteddfod in Swansea.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35- Following this, he won - the Eisteddfod Chair four times.

0:10:35 > 0:10:39- People grew weary of Dewi Emrys...

0:10:39 > 0:10:42- ..so the officials changed - the rules of the Eisteddfod.

0:10:43 > 0:10:48- As a result, no-one can win - the Chair more than twice.

0:10:50 > 0:10:55- However, it's believed that he - composed poems for other entrants...

0:10:55 > 0:10:57- ..who went on to win chairs.

0:10:57 > 0:10:59- On one such occasion...

0:10:59 > 0:11:04- ..his winning poem - was attributed to D Jones.

0:11:04 > 0:11:08- D Jones was the landlord - of The Eagle Inn.

0:11:09 > 0:11:12- People doubt the credibility - of his victory...

0:11:12 > 0:11:15- ..because this D Jones - was almost illiterate...

0:11:16 > 0:11:22- ..but the chair - sat in the pub for many years.

0:11:22 > 0:11:28- Martin, would you do me the honour - of reading a poem by Dewi Emrys?

0:11:28 > 0:11:32- He wrote this about Pwllderi, - his favourite place.

0:11:32 > 0:11:34- "That's a mixture of noise

0:11:34 > 0:11:39- "The screams of the witches, - the howling dogs

0:11:40 > 0:11:42- "The cries and whistles - and a thousand curses

0:11:43 > 0:11:45- "That are echoing through the caves

0:11:46 > 0:11:49- "And your thoughts turn - to one horrific night

0:11:49 > 0:11:53- "The poor sailor on the rocks - shouting, shouting, shouting

0:11:53 > 0:11:57- "No-one answers, but only the - old birds on the rocks can hear him

0:11:58 > 0:12:01- "And the old hawks - like a multitude of demons

0:12:01 > 0:12:04- "Wait for the light - to fade from his eyes

0:12:05 > 0:12:07- "These are the thoughts - that come to you

0:12:07 > 0:12:10- "When you sit above Pwllderi."

0:12:13 > 0:12:16- Dewi Emrys sounds quite a character.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19- I wish someone - would help me with my poems!

0:12:19 > 0:12:23- That's enough poetry. - Let's go to the cinema.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28- Nothing beats an old film.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33- In 1955, one of the world's biggest - film stars arrived here.

0:12:33 > 0:12:37- The film was Moby Dick - and the actor was Gregory Peck.

0:12:41 > 0:12:46- Moby Dick is the story of one man's - obsession with catching a whale.

0:12:46 > 0:12:50- A model of the beast was built - here in Lower Fishguard.

0:12:53 > 0:12:58- It weighed 12 tonnes - and was 75 feet long...

0:12:58 > 0:13:01- ..and was made from old oil tanks - covered with canvas.

0:13:01 > 0:13:03- It was a very clever design.

0:13:03 > 0:13:07- They pumped it full of air - and it would rise to the surface.

0:13:07 > 0:13:13- When the air was released, - it sank to the depths of the ocean.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18- The model was such a success...

0:13:18 > 0:13:23- ..that Warner Brothers insured it - for a considerable amount.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26- However, at the end of the film...

0:13:26 > 0:13:32- ..Moby Dick broke free - and escaped into the ocean.

0:13:35 > 0:13:40- The lifeboat searched and searched, - but the whale was never found.

0:13:40 > 0:13:43- Just as Nessie hides in Loch Ness...

0:13:43 > 0:13:49- ..I like to think of Moby Dick - skulking beneath the waves here.

0:13:50 > 0:13:55- Another film was set - in this small harbour too...

0:13:55 > 0:14:00- ..the Dylan Thomas classic, - Under Milk Wood from the 1970s.

0:14:00 > 0:14:04- Some claim that Lower Fishguard, - the home of The Ship Inn...

0:14:04 > 0:14:09- ..was the inspiration for Llareggub, - Dylan Thomas's imaginary village.

0:14:09 > 0:14:12- "Time passes.

0:14:12 > 0:14:15- "Listen. Time passes.

0:14:16 > 0:14:21- "An owl flies home past Bethesda, - to a chapel in an oak.

0:14:21 > 0:14:24- "And the dawn inches up.

0:14:24 > 0:14:26- "Stand on this hill.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29- "This is Llareggub Hill.

0:14:29 > 0:14:32- "Old as the hills, - high, cool, and green...

0:14:33 > 0:14:35- "..and from this small circle - of stones...

0:14:35 > 0:14:40- "..made not by druids - but by Mrs Beynon's Billy...

0:14:40 > 0:14:46- "..you can see the town below you, - sleeping in the first of the dawn."

0:14:48 > 0:14:51- Many Welsh actors - starred in the film.

0:14:51 > 0:14:56- I was too young to appear in it - but, incredibly, Hedydd did.

0:14:56 > 0:14:58- She must be older than she looks!

0:14:59 > 0:15:01- I was a four-year-old girl.

0:15:02 > 0:15:05- I lived in the village - with my family.

0:15:05 > 0:15:08- My grandparents - owned a shop on the quay.

0:15:09 > 0:15:13- The film crew chose to transform - their shop into a sweet shop.

0:15:14 > 0:15:17- It was a dream come true - for a young girl.

0:15:18 > 0:15:20- At the end of filming...

0:15:20 > 0:15:26- ..the village children were given - free rein to eat the contents.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28- It's a very sweet memory!

0:15:29 > 0:15:32- Can you remember - any specific scenes from that time?

0:15:32 > 0:15:36- I recall gazing out - of my bedroom window.

0:15:36 > 0:15:39- It's twilight - and it's the end of the film.

0:15:40 > 0:15:45- Ryan is riding a pig - along the road...

0:15:45 > 0:15:50- ..and the villagers are dancing - wildly in their pyjamas.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52- I have all sorts of memories.

0:15:53 > 0:15:55- Which celebrities came here?

0:15:55 > 0:16:00- There was Elizabeth Taylor, - Peter O'Toole and Richard Burton.

0:16:00 > 0:16:06- However, we had local celebrities - such as Ruth Madoc and Olwen Rees.

0:16:06 > 0:16:12- After a bit of luck and a few calls, - Olwen Rees herself popped by!

0:16:12 > 0:16:15- I played a little girl - called Gwennie.

0:16:15 > 0:16:17- Iris Jones played my mother.

0:16:17 > 0:16:21- The lines were "Captain Cat's - got a nose like a strawberry!"

0:16:21 > 0:16:24- "He's crying," and so on.

0:16:24 > 0:16:30- He said "You can do that and also - help the children with the song...

0:16:30 > 0:16:32- "..Gwennie Kiss The Boys.

0:16:32 > 0:16:35- "And of course, - you will work with Peter O'Toole."

0:16:35 > 0:16:40- The crew only filmed here - for three weeks...

0:16:41 > 0:16:45- ..but they took the place over - for those three weeks.

0:16:45 > 0:16:49- I didn't spend a lot of time - in school during that period.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51- I was in nursery school...

0:16:51 > 0:16:56- ..but was brought home in a minibus - to shoot the necessary scenes.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59- One evening, after supper...

0:16:59 > 0:17:04- ..Ryan decided to show these people - that the Welsh could really sing.

0:17:04 > 0:17:08- I didn't really want to sing, - but he said that I had to!

0:17:08 > 0:17:11- I chose to sing Huna Blentyn.

0:17:11 > 0:17:15- "How many verses?" I asked. - "Do them all," was the reply.

0:17:15 > 0:17:17- Brian Gascoigne - happened to be there.

0:17:18 > 0:17:21- He was arranging the film score - and he asked if I knew any more.

0:17:22 > 0:17:24- I told him that I knew - a number of songs...

0:17:24 > 0:17:29- ..such as Y Golomen, A Ei Di'r - Deryn Du and other folk songs.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32- On the following Sunday...

0:17:32 > 0:17:36- ..we recorded these songs - in the downstairs kitchen.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41- They chose Huna Blentyn - to play over the end credits.

0:17:41 > 0:17:44- What was Angharad Rees like?

0:17:45 > 0:17:49- Angharad Rees - had quite a risque scene.

0:17:49 > 0:17:51- She had to walk along the quay...

0:17:52 > 0:17:57- ..wearing only a pair of stilettos - and some French knickers.

0:17:57 > 0:18:01- They had to do something - about her chest.

0:18:01 > 0:18:06- She was invited into Jessie's home - on the quay.

0:18:06 > 0:18:11- Jessie helped to attach a sheet - to her chest with Elastoplast...

0:18:11 > 0:18:13- ..to keep her warm.

0:18:14 > 0:18:18- Jessie told Angharad that her aunt - would love to meet her...

0:18:19 > 0:18:21- ..but she was bedridden.

0:18:21 > 0:18:26- Angharad went upstairs, held the - aunt's hand and chatted to her.

0:18:26 > 0:18:30- They spoke about fashion, - the Rolls Royce...

0:18:30 > 0:18:33- ..the fur coats and sunglasses...

0:18:33 > 0:18:37- ..and all the carry-on - taking place on the quay.

0:18:37 > 0:18:41- To this day, Jessie thinks - the world of Angharad Rees...

0:18:41 > 0:18:43- ..for showing such kindness.

0:18:45 > 0:18:48- Fair play to Angharad - for spending time with the locals...

0:18:48 > 0:18:53- ..instead of drinking in The Ship - with the crew members!

0:18:53 > 0:18:57- A plaque in the bar - thanks the pub for the welcome.

0:18:57 > 0:19:01- Dylan Thomas would have had - a whale of a time!

0:19:04 > 0:19:09- Is that the time? The band - will be here for the gig soon.

0:19:09 > 0:19:12- It's a shame - they missed the stories.

0:19:12 > 0:19:18- What song is apt for The Ship Inn? - Lawr Ar Lan Y Mor, of course!

0:19:20 > 0:19:24- # I met a fair maiden - down by the sea

0:19:25 > 0:19:29- # Down by the sea, down by the sea

0:19:29 > 0:19:33- # I met a fair maiden - down by the sea

0:19:34 > 0:19:37- # Down by the sea

0:19:37 > 0:19:42- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:19:42 > 0:19:46- # The girl down by the sea

0:19:46 > 0:19:50- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:19:51 > 0:19:54- # The girl down by the sea

0:19:55 > 0:20:00- # I asked for a little kiss - down by the sea

0:20:00 > 0:20:04- # Down by the sea, down by the sea

0:20:04 > 0:20:08- # I asked for a little kiss - down by the sea

0:20:09 > 0:20:12- # Down by the sea

0:20:12 > 0:20:17- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:20:17 > 0:20:21- # The girl down by the sea

0:20:21 > 0:20:26- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:20:26 > 0:20:29- # The girl down by the sea

0:20:31 > 0:20:35- # I got a little kiss - down by the sea

0:20:35 > 0:20:39- # Down by the sea, down by the sea

0:20:39 > 0:20:44- # I got a little kiss - down by the sea

0:20:44 > 0:20:48- # Down by the sea

0:20:48 > 0:20:52- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:20:53 > 0:20:56- # The girl down by the sea

0:20:57 > 0:21:01- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:21:01 > 0:21:05- # The girl down by the sea

0:21:05 > 0:21:10- # One day, I'll marry her - down by the sea

0:21:10 > 0:21:14- # Down by the sea, down by the sea

0:21:14 > 0:21:19- # One day, I'll marry her - down by the sea

0:21:19 > 0:21:21- # Down by the sea

0:21:22 > 0:21:27- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:21:27 > 0:21:31- # The girl down by the sea

0:21:31 > 0:21:36- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:21:36 > 0:21:39- # The girl down by the sea

0:21:40 > 0:21:44- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:21:44 > 0:21:48- # The girl down by the sea

0:21:48 > 0:21:53- # Oh-oh-oh I love you, I love you

0:21:53 > 0:21:57- # The girl down by the sea #

0:21:57 > 0:22:00- CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:22:08 > 0:22:10- Oh, I enjoyed that!

0:22:10 > 0:22:14- "The Ship Inn will keep you at ease - from the wind and raging seas

0:22:15 > 0:22:18- "Let's sing and cheer - and drink plenty of beer

0:22:18 > 0:22:21- "Travelling in a van is a breeze!"

0:22:21 > 0:22:23- Goodnight.

0:22:25 > 0:22:29- # Lleucu Llwyd, you are beautiful

0:22:30 > 0:22:34- # Lleucu Llwyd, - you're worth the world to me

0:22:35 > 0:22:40- # Lleucu Llwyd, you're an angel

0:22:40 > 0:22:46- # Lleucu Llwyd, - I love you, you, you #

0:22:53 > 0:22:55- S4C subtitles by Tinopolis

0:22:55 > 0:22:55- .