Prince of Wales, Cynffig

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0:00:28 > 0:00:30- Hello and welcome to Straeon Tafarn.

0:00:30 > 0:00:33- I'm Dewi 'Pws' Morris - and I'll tour Wales...

0:00:34 > 0:00:37- ..to trace a wealth of stories - about our pubs.

0:00:37 > 0:00:39- I'll meet new and old friends...

0:00:40 > 0:00:42- ..have a chat, - perform a song...

0:00:42 > 0:00:44- ..whilst enjoying a pint!

0:00:45 > 0:00:46- Two pints.

0:00:48 > 0:00:49- Two pints.

0:00:49 > 0:00:51- CAR HORN

0:00:51 > 0:00:54- This week, - I've travelled to the South-East.

0:00:55 > 0:00:59- I'm surrounded by Europe's - tallest sand dunes.

0:01:00 > 0:01:04- Cardiff is behind me and Swansea - lies ahead of me to the west.

0:01:04 > 0:01:09- A Norman settlement - is nestled behind these dunes.

0:01:10 > 0:01:14- Norman Tebbit, Norman Wisdom, - no, the Normans!

0:01:15 > 0:01:17- On the hills in the distance...

0:01:17 > 0:01:21- ..the Saxons were defeated - by King Arthur in a battle...

0:01:22 > 0:01:26- ..where the death toll - was almost a thousand.

0:01:26 > 0:01:30- I'm on my way to Kenfig village - which is four miles from Bridgend.

0:01:30 > 0:01:34- The village was named - by 'Y Llychlynwyr'...

0:01:34 > 0:01:37- ..or as they say in the Talwrn, - the Vikings.

0:01:38 > 0:01:41- A special pub, steeped in history - awaits me...

0:01:42 > 0:01:44- ..along with its many ghosts.

0:01:45 > 0:01:48- The Prince of Wales - wasn't the original title.

0:01:49 > 0:01:53- During the 15th century, - it had a completely different name.

0:01:54 > 0:01:58- To be honest, - the pub's past is quite complex.

0:01:58 > 0:02:03- It commences on the dunes - in the old town.

0:02:04 > 0:02:07- It was affected by storms.

0:02:07 > 0:02:13- In 1605, the Burgesses - who were the landowners...

0:02:14 > 0:02:18- ..decided to move the entire town - and community...

0:02:18 > 0:02:20- ..to Kenfig.

0:02:20 > 0:02:26- They needed a town hall - which was called the Guildhall.

0:02:26 > 0:02:29- It was re-built here...

0:02:30 > 0:02:33- ..but not in - its current layout.

0:02:33 > 0:02:36- The main hall upstairs - had supporting pillars.

0:02:37 > 0:02:40- Downstairs was an open area.

0:02:40 > 0:02:44- They started back in 1808...

0:02:44 > 0:02:48- ..to build rooms - on the ground floor.

0:02:48 > 0:02:53- This was the first room - to be built in the pub.

0:02:54 > 0:02:57- It was called Ty Newydd tavern.

0:02:57 > 0:02:59- This room was the pub.

0:03:00 > 0:03:03- In the early days, - this place was Ty Newydd.

0:03:05 > 0:03:08- In 1820, - there was a local commotion...

0:03:08 > 0:03:13- ..when the landlord changed - the name to Prince of Wales.

0:03:13 > 0:03:17- People were annoyed about it...

0:03:17 > 0:03:21- ..but the landlord was obviously - a fan of the Royal family.

0:03:24 > 0:03:28- The pub is encompassed - by these dunes...

0:03:28 > 0:03:33- ..and looks over the ancient town, - which is buried under the sand.

0:03:33 > 0:03:38- They claim it sits below - this spectacular lake.

0:03:49 > 0:03:53- Rhiannon, tell us more - about the dunes and the storm.

0:03:53 > 0:03:57- Apparently, - in the late 12th century...

0:03:57 > 0:04:00- ..a terrible storm - struck the area...

0:04:00 > 0:04:02- ..and buried the entire town.

0:04:02 > 0:04:06- But the story dates back - nine generations prior to this.

0:04:07 > 0:04:11- Earl deClare lived in the castle - with his family.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14- He had a beautiful, - young daughter...

0:04:14 > 0:04:17- ..who everyone in the area - wanted to marry.

0:04:17 > 0:04:21- A particular young gentleman - was infatuated by her...

0:04:22 > 0:04:25- ..and asked for permission - to marry her...

0:04:25 > 0:04:27- ..but was refused - as he was too poor.

0:04:28 > 0:04:33- He went for a stroll one day - and spotted the Lord on his horse.

0:04:33 > 0:04:35- He attacked and killed the Lord...

0:04:36 > 0:04:40- ..before stealing his horse, - clothes, name and money.

0:04:40 > 0:04:44- He went to castle and asked to marry - the daughter again...

0:04:44 > 0:04:47- ..and he was given permission.

0:04:47 > 0:04:51- Some weeks later, they held an - extravagant wedding in the castle.

0:04:52 > 0:04:57- Whilst everyone was enjoying, - the ghost of the Lord appeared.

0:04:58 > 0:04:59- What did he say?

0:04:59 > 0:05:00- What did he say?- - "Revenge will come."

0:05:01 > 0:05:02- Nobody understood him.

0:05:03 > 0:05:05- He said, "Revenge will come."

0:05:05 > 0:05:09- "Revenge will come - to the ninth generation."

0:05:09 > 0:05:13- Nobody could understand - what he was talking about...

0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..and why the need for revenge.

0:05:16 > 0:05:21- The party continued, - as did their lives.

0:05:21 > 0:05:25- The new Lord and his wife - had a fantastic life.

0:05:25 > 0:05:30- Over time, everyone forgot - about the revenge...

0:05:30 > 0:05:35- ..until the ninth generation, - when the area had a terrible storm.

0:05:35 > 0:05:41- The rain was so heavy and - the village drowned within hours.

0:05:41 > 0:05:44- Then, the sand covered the village.

0:05:45 > 0:05:49- Today, we have the Kenfig Pool - and the sand dunes.

0:05:49 > 0:05:51- The village is below the water.

0:05:51 > 0:05:53- The village is below the water.- - Yes, it is.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56- On a dry summer's day...

0:05:56 > 0:06:00- ..they claim - you can see the chimneys.

0:06:07 > 0:06:10- This was the heart of the town.

0:06:11 > 0:06:16- Manorial and borough courts - were held here.

0:06:18 > 0:06:22- Laws and sentences were also passed.

0:06:22 > 0:06:26- This building was full of drama.

0:06:31 > 0:06:34- The hall was located - on the ground floor.

0:06:34 > 0:06:38- The external entrance is here.

0:06:39 > 0:06:44- Felons climbed these steps - to come and get sentenced.

0:06:54 > 0:06:57- John, why are we sitting here?

0:06:58 > 0:07:01- This is the court - inside the town hall.

0:07:01 > 0:07:07- It was an important place - where local laws were passed.

0:07:08 > 0:07:14- The judge would ensure that - the rules were being followed.

0:07:15 > 0:07:20- In the old days, prior to 1536...

0:07:20 > 0:07:25- ..this court was permitted to - execute people for minor crimes...

0:07:25 > 0:07:28- ..such as stealing sheep or cattle.

0:07:29 > 0:07:31- It was a very cruel period.

0:07:31 > 0:07:36- A mayor would be elected every year.

0:07:36 > 0:07:39- He was the person - who would rule the area.

0:07:39 > 0:07:45- He sat in the middle of the room - with his back facing the fireplace.

0:07:45 > 0:07:49- The southern light - streamed through the windows.

0:07:50 > 0:07:51- He sat here...

0:07:52 > 0:07:58- ..but the accused - could only see his outline.

0:07:58 > 0:08:01- The mayor could see everything...

0:08:01 > 0:08:05- ..which brought fear - to those being sentenced.

0:08:08 > 0:08:10- Some were sentenced to death.

0:08:11 > 0:08:14- They'd leave this court...

0:08:14 > 0:08:18- ..and were transported to - Cardiff Castle for execution.

0:08:20 > 0:08:22- DRUM ROLL

0:08:25 > 0:08:30- The corpses of local people - were returned and buried here...

0:08:30 > 0:08:34- ..a stone's throw away - from where they were sentenced.

0:08:35 > 0:08:40- Hundreds of blue Iris flowers - were planted to remember the dead.

0:08:40 > 0:08:46- In the 1950s, the owner of the field - wanted to grow potatoes.

0:08:46 > 0:08:48- He was granted permission...

0:08:48 > 0:08:52- ..but the flowers had to be raised - and planted elsewhere.

0:08:52 > 0:08:56- It took a fortnight to raise - the flowers and replant them.

0:08:57 > 0:09:01- In the following spring, - the flowers didn't bloom again.

0:09:05 > 0:09:10- Events at the court - and all the burials here...

0:09:11 > 0:09:16- ..have lead to the origins of - the pub's many ghostly tales.

0:09:17 > 0:09:21- So much mystery surrounded - these ghost stories...

0:09:21 > 0:09:25- ..they invited experts - with special equipment...

0:09:25 > 0:09:28- ..to record sounds within the walls.

0:09:29 > 0:09:31- This is what they heard.

0:09:36 > 0:09:39- EERIE GROANS

0:09:51 > 0:09:54- Well, it's better than Bryn Fon!

0:09:54 > 0:09:59- # I am the lighthouse keeper #

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0:10:02 > 0:10:02- Subtitles

0:10:02 > 0:10:04- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:10:09 > 0:10:15- The Prince of Wales Inn is situated - in Kenfig, four miles from Bridgend.

0:10:15 > 0:10:20- The place is full of history - and ghosts...

0:10:20 > 0:10:26- ..but there are more stories - about the ghosts that haunt here.

0:10:30 > 0:10:35- In 1865, a Sunday school - was established in this room...

0:10:35 > 0:10:38- ..by Mary Iorwerth.

0:10:38 > 0:10:43- She collected children from the - locality in a horse and cart...

0:10:43 > 0:10:46- ..and bring them to - Sunday school...

0:10:46 > 0:10:48- ..but tragedy struck one morning.

0:10:48 > 0:10:54- A nine-year-old boy was killed - en route to the Sunday school.

0:10:54 > 0:10:58- Apparently, - his spirit has settled here...

0:10:58 > 0:11:04- ..and is often seen standing - near the Bible cupboard.

0:11:07 > 0:11:10- One of the room's - most recent stories...

0:11:10 > 0:11:14- ..involved a case from 1959 - which lasted for twelve years.

0:11:15 > 0:11:19- It was between the trustees - and residents of Kenfig...

0:11:20 > 0:11:22- ..and the nearby Margam Estate.

0:11:23 > 0:11:27- The story dates back to 1954.

0:11:27 > 0:11:31- Ted Davies - was chairman of the trustees.

0:11:31 > 0:11:37- A naturalist had told him - this was a gem of a place.

0:11:38 > 0:11:40- There's a vast amount...

0:11:40 > 0:11:45- ..of insects, animals and plants - within the area.

0:11:45 > 0:11:48- Ted was told to look after it.

0:11:48 > 0:11:53- It played on Ted's mind and he - wanted to create a wildlife trust.

0:11:53 > 0:11:56- In 1957, things came to a head.

0:11:56 > 0:12:01- It had been a dry summer and - trouble brewed at the steel works.

0:12:02 > 0:12:05- Supplies from their reservoir - were low...

0:12:05 > 0:12:08- ..and only a week's worth - of water remained.

0:12:08 > 0:12:13- As Kenfig Pool was nearby, - they received planning permission...

0:12:13 > 0:12:17- ..to run water pipes from - Kenfig Pool to the steel works.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21- It was 1959 by the time - they had done this.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24- They received a letter - from the Margam Estate...

0:12:24 > 0:12:27- ..claiming that - they owned everything.

0:12:27 > 0:12:31- The secretary of the trustees, - Ted Plumley...

0:12:32 > 0:12:37- ..had done extensive research - into the background of the trust.

0:12:38 > 0:12:43- He said Margam didn't own it - but were trying to claim it.

0:12:43 > 0:12:48- A reply was sent to Margam - saying that the trust owned it.

0:12:48 > 0:12:52- Margam Estate replied immediately...

0:12:53 > 0:12:57- ..stating they would solve the issue - at the High Court in London.

0:12:58 > 0:13:04- They attended the High Court - with their QC Huw Francis.

0:13:04 > 0:13:08- He studied the records - and told them they had a case.

0:13:08 > 0:13:12- But if they lost the case...

0:13:13 > 0:13:16- ..they'd have to pay expenses - for both parties.

0:13:16 > 0:13:18- It was quite a risk.

0:13:19 > 0:13:22- Ted consulted his wife, Morwen.

0:13:22 > 0:13:25- She recalled the time...

0:13:25 > 0:13:29- ..when they lived happily in - a council house in Cornelly...

0:13:30 > 0:13:35- ..and if they lost their home - they could return to Cornelly.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39- People felt strongly - and were ready to lose their homes.

0:13:40 > 0:13:43- The court case lasted for a month.

0:13:43 > 0:13:49- When it all came to a climax - and the judge began to sum up...

0:13:49 > 0:13:54- ..Ted didn't understand a word - of what the judge said...

0:13:54 > 0:13:58- ..as it was unfamiliar legal jargon.

0:13:58 > 0:14:02- But he did understand the judge - when he said...

0:14:02 > 0:14:05- .."I've come to - the unmistakable decision...

0:14:06 > 0:14:09- "..that the trust own everything."

0:14:09 > 0:14:13- They were ecstatic, - but Margam did appeal.

0:14:13 > 0:14:16- What was the result of this dispute?

0:14:16 > 0:14:19- Ten days prior to the appeal...

0:14:20 > 0:14:23- ..they received - a phone call from Huw Francis.

0:14:23 > 0:14:27- He wanted to meet with Ted Plumley - and Ted Davies in London.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29- They travelled to London...

0:14:29 > 0:14:35- ..as Margam Estate - had a propostition for them.

0:14:35 > 0:14:39- The trust would own 800 acres...

0:14:39 > 0:14:43- ..and Margam would own - 800 acres of the 1,600 acres.

0:14:43 > 0:14:45- Ted said it was tempting...

0:14:45 > 0:14:50- ..as it meant there wasn't - an appeal or any legal costs.

0:14:50 > 0:14:52- He asked Huw Francis...

0:14:53 > 0:14:58- ..what would he would do - in this situation.

0:14:58 > 0:15:04- He said, "If your case is good - enough to claim 800 acres...

0:15:04 > 0:15:08- "..it's good enough - to claim the lot!"

0:15:08 > 0:15:12- Ted said, "Right, that's where - we stand on the matter."

0:15:13 > 0:15:18- Margam was told that - the trust didn't want to bargain.

0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Margam Estate replied - a couple of days later...

0:15:23 > 0:15:26- ..claiming they didn't - want to take it further.

0:15:26 > 0:15:29- David had beaten Goliath!

0:15:29 > 0:15:33- Yes, but it must have been - quite a nuisance for them.

0:15:36 > 0:15:39- The pub is the heart - of the community...

0:15:39 > 0:15:44- ..and like every popular pub, - it's home to many characters.

0:15:44 > 0:15:49- There's been a wealth of characters - including some landlords.

0:15:49 > 0:15:53- Ben Evans was one of them - and he was born in the area.

0:15:53 > 0:15:56- As a child, - he moved to the Rhondda.

0:15:57 > 0:15:59- Ben worked in the coal mines...

0:15:59 > 0:16:03- ..and after 40 years - as a timberman...

0:16:03 > 0:16:05- ..he decided to return to his roots.

0:16:06 > 0:16:11- He wanted to move back - and live on the dunes.

0:16:11 > 0:16:15- Ben lived in a small shed - that he built.

0:16:16 > 0:16:22- He collected wood and fish - from the beach...

0:16:22 > 0:16:27- ..and sell them here - or trade fish for beer.

0:16:27 > 0:16:32- Ben lived on the dunes - for over 20 years.

0:16:32 > 0:16:35- The locals have - fond memories of him...

0:16:35 > 0:16:39- ..especially the older generation - who remember him well.

0:16:40 > 0:16:44- There was a great story about him - in the South Wales Echo.

0:16:44 > 0:16:48- A journalist went to interview Ben.

0:16:49 > 0:16:52- Ben described his life...

0:16:52 > 0:16:57- ..and claimed the sea acted as his - mother and gave him what he needed.

0:16:57 > 0:16:59- He also said...

0:17:00 > 0:17:05- .."I have discovered that life - is full of beautiful things."

0:17:05 > 0:17:09- That's a slogan to remember.

0:17:10 > 0:17:16- A stone's throw from the pub lies - the Vale's most dangerous depths...

0:17:16 > 0:17:20- ..which leads to an area - of maritime industry in Swansea.

0:17:21 > 0:17:22- This is Sker Beach...

0:17:22 > 0:17:27- ..which is responsible for - tens of shipwrecks over the years.

0:17:27 > 0:17:31- 'Llongdrylliadau' or shipwrecks - is a difficult word to say!

0:17:31 > 0:17:35- 'Llongyfarchiadau' - or congratulations is easier.

0:17:35 > 0:17:41- This beach is mostly well-known for - one of the areas most famous tales.

0:17:42 > 0:17:44- The Maid of Sker.

0:17:44 > 0:17:47- This house has a close - connection to the pub.

0:17:58 > 0:18:02- The Maid of Sker - is the area's most famous tale.

0:18:02 > 0:18:07- Isaac Williams and his family - were farming at Sker House.

0:18:07 > 0:18:10- He had a beautiful daughter - called Elizabeth.

0:18:11 > 0:18:13- She loved dancing - and enjoyed her life.

0:18:14 > 0:18:19- Elizabeth visited the pub - whenever it was possible.

0:18:19 > 0:18:23- Saint's day celebrations - were held at the pub...

0:18:23 > 0:18:28- ..and she met Thomas Evans, an - impoverished harpist from Newtown.

0:18:28 > 0:18:32- She fell in love with Thomas - when she heard him play the harp.

0:18:32 > 0:18:37- According to the legend, - they were lovers by the next day...

0:18:37 > 0:18:40- ..and planned to get marry - and elope.

0:18:40 > 0:18:45- But Elizabeth's father, - Isaac Williams heard about this...

0:18:45 > 0:18:48- ..and decided to stop it.

0:18:48 > 0:18:53- He forced Elizabeth to marry - a rich man from Neath...

0:18:53 > 0:18:55- ..called Thomas Kirkhouse.

0:18:56 > 0:19:01- She was incredibly unhappy - and later had four children.

0:19:01 > 0:19:06- Whilst shopping with one of - her children at Neath Market...

0:19:06 > 0:19:11- ..she heard the harp playing - and the voice of Thomas Evans.

0:19:12 > 0:19:15- She approached him - and watched him play.

0:19:15 > 0:19:19- Having seen and heard him again, - she returned home...

0:19:19 > 0:19:23- ..and died shortly after - from a broken heart.

0:19:23 > 0:19:24- You can see my tears.

0:19:24 > 0:19:26- You can see my tears.- - Real tears.

0:19:26 > 0:19:28- They all have a sad ending.

0:19:36 > 0:19:41- I've had an incredible welcome - at the Prince of Wales.

0:19:41 > 0:19:44- We can't leave without a song - by Brychan Llyr...

0:19:45 > 0:19:47- ..who lives a few miles away.

0:19:47 > 0:19:50- Who better to play the harp - than Bethan Nia.

0:19:50 > 0:19:55- The song is called Y Ferch o'r Sger.

0:19:56 > 0:19:59- Welcome everyone to - the Prince of Wales.

0:19:59 > 0:20:01- It's a very special place.

0:20:01 > 0:20:04- We usually end with a happy - and jolly song...

0:20:05 > 0:20:08- ..but this programme - is quite spiritual...

0:20:08 > 0:20:10- ..as it refers to the Maid of Sker.

0:20:10 > 0:20:15- We've got a special performance - from Bethan Nia and Brychan Llyr.

0:20:15 > 0:20:17- Give them a warm welcome.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20- APPLAUSE

0:20:36 > 0:20:40- # They say that in the Kenfig area

0:20:40 > 0:20:43- # When the night illuminates stars

0:20:44 > 0:20:47- # A couple are sometimes walking

0:20:47 > 0:20:50- # Over the dunes, towards the Sker

0:20:51 > 0:20:54- # Followed by melodies

0:20:54 > 0:20:57- # Gentle and happy with the breeze

0:20:58 > 0:21:01- # It's the sound of harp strings

0:21:01 > 0:21:05- # As heard from nights before

0:21:05 > 0:21:09- # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo

0:21:09 > 0:21:11- # Sker farmhouse

0:21:11 > 0:21:17- # Sker farmhouse- - # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo

0:21:17 > 0:21:21- # When another storm hit

0:21:22 > 0:21:25- # Clouds darkened the heavens

0:21:25 > 0:21:29- # In turn came the fierce waves

0:21:29 > 0:21:32- # Which hit the white beaches

0:21:32 > 0:21:35- # A terrifying murmur was heard

0:21:36 > 0:21:39- # From the tinkle of a faraway tune

0:21:39 > 0:21:42- # And cursed arrows

0:21:42 > 0:21:46- # Pierce the Sker farmhouse

0:21:46 > 0:21:51- # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo

0:21:51 > 0:21:53- # Sker farmhouse

0:21:53 > 0:21:59- # Sker farmhouse- - # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo

0:21:59 > 0:22:02- # When craving for silence

0:22:03 > 0:22:06- # To flee the streets of Sker

0:22:06 > 0:22:09- # We'll go down towards the dunes

0:22:09 > 0:22:12- # And towards Sker beach

0:22:13 > 0:22:16- # We'll go there in a hurry

0:22:16 > 0:22:19- # As swift as thunder

0:22:19 > 0:22:22- # No wind will be as quick as us

0:22:23 > 0:22:30- # In the communion - of heaven's spirit

0:22:30 > 0:22:38- # Sker beach

0:22:38 > 0:22:42- # They say that in the Kenfig area

0:22:43 > 0:22:45- # When the night illuminates stars

0:22:46 > 0:22:49- # A couple are sometimes walking

0:22:49 > 0:22:52- # Over the dunes, towards the Sker

0:22:53 > 0:22:56- # Followed by melodies

0:22:56 > 0:22:59- # Gentle, happy with the breeze

0:22:59 > 0:23:03- # It's the sound of harp strings

0:23:03 > 0:23:07- # As heard from nights before

0:23:08 > 0:23:11- # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo

0:23:11 > 0:23:13- # Sker farmhouse

0:23:13 > 0:23:19- # Sker farmhouse- - # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo #

0:23:22 > 0:23:24- APPLAUSE

0:23:35 > 0:23:38- In Kenfig, there are many tales...

0:23:38 > 0:23:40- ..and a tavern full - of fun and games.

0:23:41 > 0:23:42- The old Prince of Wales...

0:23:43 > 0:23:44- ..is full of real ales.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48- But it's a glass of hot milk for me!

0:23:49 > 0:23:50- Goodnight.

0:23:52 > 0:23:55- # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo

0:23:55 > 0:23:56- # Sker Farmhouse

0:23:56 > 0:24:03- # Sker Farmhouse- - # Ooo-ooo-ooo-ooo #

0:24:06 > 0:24:08- Subtitles by Tinopolis

0:24:08 > 0:24:09- .