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0:00:30 > 0:00:33- Hello and welcome to Straeon Tafarn.
0:00:33 > 0:00:36- I'm Dewi "Pws" Morris - and I'll tour the country...
0:00:36 > 0:00:40- ..to learn about the history - of our best pubs.
0:00:40 > 0:00:45- I'll meet old friends, - sing a song, hear some stories...
0:00:45 > 0:00:50- ..and I might sample - some of the local culture.
0:00:52 > 0:00:58- This week, I've come to North-East - Wales to the Rhydymwyn Valley...
0:00:58 > 0:01:03- ..that 20,000 years ago - was at the bottom of a lake...
0:01:04 > 0:01:08- ..but is now - a plush, green landscape.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- I'm on the main road - between Denbigh and Mold...
0:01:12 > 0:01:17- ..and heading towards - the industrial town of Hendre.
0:01:17 > 0:01:22- The land beneath Hendre - is a network of underground tunnels.
0:01:22 > 0:01:25- They have witnessed generations...
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- ..who mined for lead and limestone - in the area.
0:01:30 > 0:01:32- I hope it's safe!
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- Which public house - am I visiting this week?
0:01:37 > 0:01:42- I'm going to the Royal Oak, - or The Oak as it's known locally.
0:01:42 > 0:01:47- This pub was the drinking hole - for thirsty miners.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- I said I was meeting old friends...
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- ..but I won't find - anyone older than you!
0:01:58 > 0:01:59- Yes, but I'm younger than you.
0:01:59 > 0:02:01- Yes, but I'm younger than you.- - OK, touche!
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- You own the place.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05- Tell me about the history - of the pub.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08- There's been a pub here - for over 300 years.
0:02:09 > 0:02:11- This is thanks to the industries.
0:02:12 > 0:02:17- There is a stone step - on the back wall.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- It was the route taken by the miners - to reach the pub.
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- The stone at the bottom - isn't flat any more...
0:02:26 > 0:02:27- ..but there's a dip.
0:02:28 > 0:02:34- It shows hundreds of years of wear - from the miners' hobnail boots.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- Where did they all live?
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- Where did they all live?- - Some lived in the village.
0:02:38 > 0:02:43- However, many of them - came to the area from Yorkshire.
0:02:44 > 0:02:49- The next village along the road - is called Lixwm.
0:02:50 > 0:02:55- The name derives from the Yorkshire - saying of "a likesome place."
0:02:55 > 0:02:58- In Welsh, it's called Licswm.
0:02:58 > 0:03:00- People would come and go.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- Hundreds upon hundreds of people - came to work in the quarries...
0:03:06 > 0:03:08- ..who mined for lead, limestone...
0:03:09 > 0:03:14- ..and the spar that was used - for the white road markings...
0:03:14 > 0:03:16- ..and in pebble dash on homes.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- The quarry is behind us - and it was very busy.
0:03:20 > 0:03:22- I noticed a tall tower - on my way here.
0:03:23 > 0:03:24- What is it?
0:03:24 > 0:03:30- The tower is the main air shaft - for the Olwyn Goch mine.
0:03:31 > 0:03:36- The main Olwyn Goch shaft - is 800-foot deep.
0:03:36 > 0:03:41- I think that it was - at the start of the 1970s...
0:03:41 > 0:03:43- ..when they closed the pit.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47- They cut the chains - and let everything fall.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- All the equipment - is still underground.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- A friend attended an auction - in the 1980s.
0:03:54 > 0:03:59- Many artefacts from the Olwyn Goch - mine was on sale so he bought them.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01- The lots included the hooter...
0:04:01 > 0:04:06- ..that called the men to work and - signalled the raising of the crates.
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- We have it in the pub and - it's sitting over there on the bar.
0:04:16 > 0:04:20- In February 1862, the area - witnessed a terrible disaster.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- It was an ordinary day's work...
0:04:23 > 0:04:27- ..and the miners discovered a shaft - full of water.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29- Sixteen miners drowned.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37- But one strong man - survived the disaster...
0:04:37 > 0:04:42- ..by climbing the quarter-of-an-inch - line that held the mine's bell.
0:04:42 > 0:04:46- It was thick enough - to save his life.
0:04:50 > 0:04:56- The mining disaster of 1862 - saw the deaths of 16 miners...
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- ..including a 14-year-old boy - and a man of 66.
0:05:01 > 0:05:05- The country's poets - composed elegies for each of them.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- The verdict was accidental death.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- It meant that the owners of the mine - and landowners...
0:05:13 > 0:05:15- ..were not held responsible.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- This site boasted residents - from all over the country.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24- There were people - from Cornwall, Derbyshire...
0:05:24 > 0:05:29- ..and Welsh farmhands who wanted - a career in this new industry.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31- It was a growing industry.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- How did the accident happen?
0:05:33 > 0:05:37- It was the result of water - bursting into the pit.
0:05:37 > 0:05:39- This was rare in those days.
0:05:39 > 0:05:45- Health and safety was obsolete - for miners in the 19th century...
0:05:45 > 0:05:49- ..but this type of accident - was uncommon.
0:05:49 > 0:05:54- You often found ceilings - collapsing on top of the miners...
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- ..men falling underground...
0:05:57 > 0:06:01- ..or there were issues - with the blasting.
0:06:01 > 0:06:06- On the surface, - many of the engines would explode...
0:06:06 > 0:06:08- ..so it was very dangerous.
0:06:09 > 0:06:11- What did they find underground?
0:06:11 > 0:06:16- Geographically, - this area is classed as Halkyn.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- It's awash with limestone...
0:06:19 > 0:06:22- ..but it also boasts - a wealth of coal in the north...
0:06:23 > 0:06:24- ..and a lot of lead.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27- There was a real mixture.
0:06:28 > 0:06:30- There was a lot of money to be made.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32- Yes, definitely.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36- If you compare it to the wage - of the farmhands...
0:06:36 > 0:06:38- ..then the miners - earned quite a lot.
0:06:39 > 0:06:40- They earned a lot more.
0:06:40 > 0:06:45- Most of the farmhands came here - and learnt on the job.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48- I suspect that is how it happened.
0:06:48 > 0:06:52- The majority started in their - childhood years, more or less...
0:06:53 > 0:06:58- ..but some learnt from their fathers - or brothers.
0:06:58 > 0:07:00- It was certainly the case...
0:07:01 > 0:07:04- ..that a lot of them - learnt their skills on the job.
0:07:04 > 0:07:08- They earned a good wage - but it wasn't much of a life.
0:07:08 > 0:07:12- No, it wasn't and there was - a lot of health issues...
0:07:13 > 0:07:17- ..and you cannot romanticize the job - at all.
0:07:20 > 0:07:24- The Oak has always been central - to the community.
0:07:24 > 0:07:30- At the turn of the 20th century, - the landlords ran the nearby shop.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33- Edward was famous for his remedies.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- His wife, Catherine, - thought of the children.
0:07:36 > 0:07:41- She occasionally left one of these - on the windowsill.
0:07:42 > 0:07:45- Look what's cooking, - it's rice pudding!
0:07:45 > 0:07:46- Rice pudding!
0:07:47 > 0:07:49- SCREAMS AND CHEERS
0:07:49 > 0:07:54- The Sheldon family owned this pub - at the start of the 19th century.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- They not only ran the pub...
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- ..but had a shop - where the ladies toilets now stand.
0:08:02 > 0:08:04- It was a very specialized shop.
0:08:04 > 0:08:09- They sold pheasants, rabbits, - general meat and a few other things.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- But the old Mr Sheldon...
0:08:13 > 0:08:16- ..was described - as the parish doctor.
0:08:16 > 0:08:19- He made an array of remedies...
0:08:20 > 0:08:22- ..from herbs found in the locality.
0:08:22 > 0:08:27- He was famous in the area - for curing various ailments.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30- He had an excellent reputation.
0:08:30 > 0:08:32- He was also the landlord.
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- This is still a community pub.
0:08:36 > 0:08:41- Yes, and we've won awards over - the years for being a community pub.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- One year, - we were second in all of Britain.
0:08:45 > 0:08:47- We've been here since 1997.
0:08:47 > 0:08:53- In that time, our customers - have raised over 60,000...
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- ..for groups in the area - such as our football club...
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- ..the church, the school and - various groups to help the village.
0:09:04 > 0:09:08- It's important to be - at the heart of the village.
0:09:08 > 0:09:12- It's lovely to see you again - and thanks for the pint.
0:09:12 > 0:09:14- But do you sell tea?
0:09:14 > 0:09:16- But do you sell tea?- - What do you think?
0:09:22 > 0:09:23- .
0:09:25 > 0:09:25- Subtitles
0:09:25 > 0:09:27- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:09:31 > 0:09:36- The Oak at Hendre is on the road - from Mold to Denbigh.
0:09:36 > 0:09:41- The nearby Alyn Valley boasts - an impressive, industrial past.
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- World War II saw the site's heyday.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48- The Valley Works were at the heart - of their efforts.
0:09:49 > 0:09:53- But you won't find the Valley Works - on any maps from the era.
0:09:54 > 0:09:57- There's a good reason for that.
0:09:57 > 0:09:59- Behind these walls...
0:09:59 > 0:10:03- ..they stored - some horrific chemical weapons.
0:10:03 > 0:10:05- Horrific!
0:10:08 > 0:10:13- The name of the village - is quite misleading.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18- Rhydymwyn makes a person - think of pleasant and gentle place.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20- But it's the exact opposite.
0:10:20 > 0:10:25- Rhydymwyn is quite notorious - in the area for being dangerous.
0:10:26 > 0:10:28- This is founded upon...
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- ..the experiments - that were held in the area...
0:10:33 > 0:10:38- ..and the production - of these diabolical things.
0:10:38 > 0:10:40- During the war...
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- ..people flocked to the area - to work.
0:10:45 > 0:10:48- Thank you for chatting with us, - Rosina.
0:10:48 > 0:10:53- Tell us about your experiences - and your job during the war.
0:10:53 > 0:10:57- I was an inspector for the - Aeronautical Inspection Department.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00- That sounds posh!
0:11:00 > 0:11:02- What did you have to do?
0:11:02 > 0:11:08- I had to examine the bombs - before they were filled...
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- ..to ensure - they were safe to be filled.
0:11:12 > 0:11:17- They were filled - and I had to examine them again...
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- ..to ensure it was airtight.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23- What did they put in the bombs?
0:11:23 > 0:11:25- What did they put in the bombs?- - Mustard gas.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28- I didn't know that - when I worked there.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- I didn't know what they put in them.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33- It was a very dangerous job.
0:11:34 > 0:11:37- It burnt if any of it spilt on you.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39- How many were working with you?
0:11:39 > 0:11:41- How many were working with you?- - There was close to 50 of us.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- I was working for the RAF - in the air force.
0:11:45 > 0:11:50- I needed a pass from the ICI - to get into the factory.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52- When we went to work...
0:11:52 > 0:11:55- ..we had to go through the gates - and show the pass.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59- Then we went - through the shower room.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- Did you have a shower?
0:12:01 > 0:12:07- I had to strip, take a shower - and then dress in the ICI clothes.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09- You couldn't tell anyone.
0:12:09 > 0:12:11- You couldn't tell anyone.- - No, nobody knew what we did.
0:12:12 > 0:12:13- It was a big secret.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- You were like a spy.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- I didn't know what they did.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- They didn't tell us - there was mustard gas in the bombs.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23- I didn't know about it.
0:12:24 > 0:12:27- Do you mind if I ask - your current age?
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- I'm 94 years old.
0:12:30 > 0:12:31- Well done to you.
0:12:32 > 0:12:34- Yes, I'm 94.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45- They didn't only make - mustard gas bombs.
0:12:45 > 0:12:50- Between 1941 and 1943, the - Valley Works played a major role...
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- ..in the development - of a far more powerful weapon.
0:12:55 > 0:12:56- The atomic bomb.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- We knew the world - would not be the same.
0:13:02 > 0:13:07- I remembered the line from the Hindu - scripture, from the Bhagavad Gita.
0:13:07 > 0:13:12- "Now I am become Death, - the destroyer of worlds."
0:13:13 > 0:13:15- In this building, Pyro P6...
0:13:15 > 0:13:20- ..they developed the complicated - process of gaseous diffusion.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- This meant - that they could build a bomb...
0:13:24 > 0:13:27- ..with potentially - catastrophic results.
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- This is where the work started.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34- Some 2,000 people - were working at Rhydymwyn...
0:13:34 > 0:13:36- ..at the time of the war.
0:13:36 > 0:13:41- Some of those workers were experts - in their field.
0:13:41 > 0:13:47- Two of those experts were scientists - from Birmingham...
0:13:47 > 0:13:50- ..but their names - revealed the fact...
0:13:51 > 0:13:54- ..that they had German roots.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56- What were their names?
0:13:56 > 0:13:58- What were their names?- - They were German names.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01- Oscar Frisch and Rudolf Peierls.
0:14:01 > 0:14:03- They don't sound Northwalian to me!
0:14:04 > 0:14:08- No, and they didn't sound like - the kind of people...
0:14:08 > 0:14:13- ..who were willing to share their - knowledge with the local people.
0:14:16 > 0:14:19- Keeping this secret - was a matter of national security.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- The workers - managed to hide the truth.
0:14:22 > 0:14:28- Not even the Nazi secret service - knew of this place.
0:14:28 > 0:14:32- It's miraculous after the efforts - of the 20th century spy...
0:14:33 > 0:14:35- ..Klaus Fuchs.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- There was another - with a German name.
0:14:38 > 0:14:44- But he didn't intend to share - the information with Germany...
0:14:45 > 0:14:46- ..but Russia!
0:14:47 > 0:14:48- He was a spy.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52- Yes, and it's quite shocking...
0:14:52 > 0:14:55- ..that he was working - for the Soviet Union.
0:14:55 > 0:15:00- The German secret service didn't - know the location of the factory.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- No, I don't think they did.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05- It was a complete mystery.
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- It helped that the site - was far from the major cities...
0:15:11 > 0:15:15- ..which is where the Germans - expected the atomic bomb...
0:15:16 > 0:15:18- ..to have been devised.
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- Any stranger - who appeared in the area...
0:15:22 > 0:15:26- ..would be spotted immediately - by the local people.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- It was very odd here during the war.
0:15:30 > 0:15:33- Some 2,000 people - came here by train each day...
0:15:34 > 0:15:38- ..and were taken home every night.
0:15:39 > 0:15:43- There was a constant - coming and going...
0:15:43 > 0:15:48- ..and it was all - shrouded in secrecy.
0:15:54 > 0:15:58- The Alyn Valley was a hive - of activity during World War II.
0:15:58 > 0:16:03- The men had either gone to war - or were working in the factories.
0:16:03 > 0:16:05- These farms were empty.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09- It was a disaster as they had to - work the land to feed the country.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- Who came to the rescue?
0:16:12 > 0:16:15- The Women's Land Army!
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- # The British Grenadiers #
0:16:33 > 0:16:39- The farmers were still working hard - in this rural area...
0:16:39 > 0:16:44- ..but many of the farmhands - had been called to war.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- It meant that - there was a lack of manpower.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- I think that was the time...
0:16:52 > 0:16:56- ..that they decided to form...
0:16:56 > 0:17:00- ..the Women's Land Army - as they were known.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04- They had a strong presence - in this area.
0:17:04 > 0:17:10- There were some old farms - that had been left empty...
0:17:10 > 0:17:13- ..so some ladies - were stationed in them.
0:17:13 > 0:17:19- They also came across - a rather substantial house...
0:17:20 > 0:17:24- ..in the area - on the Gwysaney estate.
0:17:24 > 0:17:28- At Bryn Alyn, they established - a home for the ladies.
0:17:29 > 0:17:31- What did the Women's Land Army do?
0:17:32 > 0:17:34- That's a good question.
0:17:34 > 0:17:40- Many of the women came to the roles - without any previous experience.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- They had to learn very quickly.
0:17:44 > 0:17:49- However, some of the women were - from agricultural backgrounds...
0:17:49 > 0:17:51- ..and knew what to do.
0:17:51 > 0:17:56- They did everything such as milking - and working the land with tractors.
0:17:57 > 0:18:02- They did everything - a typical farmer would have to do.
0:18:03 > 0:18:06- I'm sure they didn't do the work - to the same standard...
0:18:07 > 0:18:10- ..and were messy as they - were unfamiliar with the work.
0:18:11 > 0:18:15- But their contribution - to this area...
0:18:15 > 0:18:17- ..was crucial.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23- This small corner of Wales...
0:18:23 > 0:18:29- ..was very important in developing - the world's most powerful weapons.
0:18:29 > 0:18:34- But there's one more secret - left to be uncovered.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39- I understand that Churchill had - a plan at the end of World War II.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- If the Germans - had landed in Southern England...
0:18:43 > 0:18:48- ..all the bullion - from the Bank of England...
0:18:48 > 0:18:51- ..would be brought here - for safe keeping.
0:18:52 > 0:18:57- Before you ask, yes, I've looked - for it but found nothing!
0:18:59 > 0:19:03- I've had a wonderful welcome - from my old friend at The Oak...
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- ..and learnt the secrets - of the Alyn Valley.
0:19:07 > 0:19:12- Before I leave, - I'll share a pint with the locals...
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- ..and enjoy a song from Ynyr Llwyd.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33- # Here, in front of me
0:19:33 > 0:19:39- # A small path leads to the water
0:19:40 > 0:19:42- # And the light of sun
0:19:43 > 0:19:48- # Is breaking through the trees
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- # Here, in front of me
0:19:52 > 0:19:59- # The young fisherman works hard - without causing a stir
0:20:00 > 0:20:02- # Back and forth
0:20:02 > 0:20:07- # It's always the same old pattern
0:20:09 > 0:20:12- # And on the lake
0:20:12 > 0:20:18- # Sits the lonely fisherman
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- # In a boat on Llyn Brenig
0:20:25 > 0:20:29- # No cares in the world, - he's still here
0:20:30 > 0:20:34- # Catching fish on the water
0:20:35 > 0:20:38- # Catching fish on the water
0:20:39 > 0:20:41- # Here, in front of me
0:20:42 > 0:20:49- # The gentle waves - kiss the edge of the shore
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- # Back and forth
0:20:52 > 0:20:58- # It's always the same old pattern
0:20:59 > 0:21:02- # And on the lake
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- # Sits the lonely fisherman
0:21:09 > 0:21:13- # In a boat on Llyn Brenig
0:21:14 > 0:21:19- # No cares in the world, - he's still here
0:21:19 > 0:21:24- # Catching fish on the water
0:21:25 > 0:21:29- # Catching fish on the water #
0:21:30 > 0:21:32- Come and join me, Pws!
0:21:35 > 0:21:36- Yee-haw!
0:21:39 > 0:21:41- # A fisherman
0:21:42 > 0:21:44- # A lonely fisherman
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- # A fisherman
0:21:47 > 0:21:49- # In a boat on Llyn Brenig
0:21:49 > 0:21:51- # A fisherman
0:21:52 > 0:21:54- # A lonely fisherman
0:21:54 > 0:21:56- # A fisherman
0:21:56 > 0:21:59- # In a boat on Llyn Brenig
0:21:59 > 0:22:01- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:02 > 0:22:04- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:04 > 0:22:06- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:07 > 0:22:09- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:09 > 0:22:11- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:12 > 0:22:14- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:14 > 0:22:16- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:16 > 0:22:23- # Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh #
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- CHEERING AND APPLAUSE
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- "I took a stroll to The Oak
0:22:40 > 0:22:41- "And met a tidy bloke
0:22:42 > 0:22:45- "The company was fine - but I couldn't decline
0:22:45 > 0:22:49- "So I left the place flat broke!"
0:22:50 > 0:22:51- Goodnight!
0:22:53 > 0:22:55- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:56 > 0:22:58- # Oh, oh, oh
0:22:58 > 0:23:00- # Oh, oh, oh
0:23:01 > 0:23:03- # Oh, oh, oh
0:23:03 > 0:23:05- # Oh, oh, oh
0:23:06 > 0:23:08- # Oh, oh, oh
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- # Oh, oh, oh
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- # Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh #
0:23:15 > 0:23:17- S4C Subtitles by Tinopolis
0:23:17 > 0:23:17- .