Iwerddon

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0:00:06 > 0:00:09- Dear me, what a journey...

0:00:09 > 0:00:11- ..and what an adventure.

0:00:12 > 0:00:13- Crikey, what a place!

0:00:13 > 0:00:18- I'm travelling along the west coast - of Europe, from the Azores...

0:00:19 > 0:00:22- I've always wanted to swim - with these.

0:00:22 > 0:00:24- ..all the way up to Iceland.

0:00:32 > 0:00:33- I'm swimming here...

0:00:35 > 0:00:37- ..between two continents.

0:00:38 > 0:00:41- I'll take you - to as many places as I can...

0:00:42 > 0:00:45- ..to see incredible wildlife - and amazing views.

0:00:45 > 0:00:49- Everything we see - is here for one reason...

0:00:50 > 0:00:53- ..the influence of the Atlantic.

0:00:53 > 0:00:56- The wind whips in - all the way from America.

0:00:57 > 0:01:01- The Atlantic - defines the climate and wildlife...

0:01:01 > 0:01:04- ..of every country - in Western Europe.

0:01:06 > 0:01:10- We've seen the wonders - of Portugal...

0:01:10 > 0:01:11- ..Spain...

0:01:11 > 0:01:14- A lynx. A lynx, lads, a lynx!

0:01:15 > 0:01:17- France.

0:01:17 > 0:01:21- There are birds everywhere. - It's a paradise for me.

0:01:21 > 0:01:23- The Channel Islands.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28- Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly.

0:01:28 > 0:01:32- It's the first one I've seen - in Britain, so I'm happy!

0:01:32 > 0:01:35- And we're only halfway.

0:01:36 > 0:01:41- More new and exciting adventures - await me in Ireland.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54- Eire, Ireland, land of legends...

0:01:54 > 0:01:59- ..music and persistent rain - from the Atlantic.

0:01:59 > 0:02:02- Torrential storms rip through here.

0:02:02 > 0:02:04- But travelling - Ireland's west coast...

0:02:05 > 0:02:08- ..gives me a rare chance - to hear a familiar old voice.

0:02:09 > 0:02:11- RASPING BIRD CALL

0:02:11 > 0:02:13- It's great to hear it again.

0:02:13 > 0:02:18- I explore remarkable worlds - underground and underwater.

0:02:19 > 0:02:24- I don't think I've ever seen - such a rich habitat on any mainland.

0:02:24 > 0:02:29- I witness - unforgettable sights and landscapes.

0:02:29 > 0:02:33- The Skellig Islands, - the Cliffs of Moher...

0:02:33 > 0:02:35- ..and the Burren.

0:02:36 > 0:02:40- It's a long trip, all the way - to Donegal and Inishbofin...

0:02:41 > 0:02:44- ..in the extreme north-west.

0:02:44 > 0:02:48- But my journey begins in the south, - on the shores of Bantry Bay.

0:02:49 > 0:02:55- I'm searching the Glengarriff Woods - for a rare and unexpected plant.

0:02:55 > 0:02:58- It's a rather special cabbage.

0:03:00 > 0:03:03- This is St Patrick's cabbage.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06- It might be called a cabbage...

0:03:07 > 0:03:10- ..but it's a species of saxifrage.

0:03:10 > 0:03:12- It's one of those odd plants...

0:03:13 > 0:03:18- ..that are found in pockets, - here in the south-west of Ireland...

0:03:18 > 0:03:24- ..and nowhere else in Europe - apart from Western Portugal.

0:03:24 > 0:03:27- Why does it only grow - in those two places?

0:03:28 > 0:03:30- Nobody is sure, - but it's thought...

0:03:30 > 0:03:35- ..that early settlers brought it - from one country to the other.

0:03:35 > 0:03:38- They thrive - in the west of both countries...

0:03:38 > 0:03:41- ..due to the sea's influence.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- The climate is wet all year round.

0:03:44 > 0:03:49- That enables these plants - to grow and thrive.

0:03:50 > 0:03:56- The same is true of another species - of saxifrage that grows nearby.

0:03:56 > 0:04:02- This is kidney saxifrage, - named for its kidney-shaped leaves.

0:04:04 > 0:04:08- It's only found in County Cork - and County Kerry...

0:04:09 > 0:04:14- ..and in the Pyrenees - or Cantabrian Mountains in Spain.

0:04:16 > 0:04:18- And what about this animal?

0:04:18 > 0:04:23- Did its ancestors stow away - on a ship from Spain centuries ago?

0:04:25 > 0:04:31- That's true of every flower, insect - and animal that flourishes here.

0:04:31 > 0:04:33- After all, Ireland is an island.

0:04:33 > 0:04:37- Everything made its way here - after the Ice Age, but how?

0:04:38 > 0:04:40- That remains a mystery...

0:04:40 > 0:04:44- ..but it must have been - some journey and some adventure.

0:04:54 > 0:04:57- I head to the west - of County Kerry...

0:04:58 > 0:05:02- ..and the picturesque bay - of Ballinskelligs.

0:05:03 > 0:05:08- It's not the end of a journey - but the beginning of another.

0:05:09 > 0:05:12- I'm heading towards - the two islands on the horizon.

0:05:13 > 0:05:16- The Skellig Islands.

0:05:19 > 0:05:24- Once you pass Bolus Head, - the journey to Little Skellig...

0:05:25 > 0:05:29- ..is 12 kilometres, - around seven miles.

0:05:30 > 0:05:34- But in an old boat, - bobbing about on the waves...

0:05:34 > 0:05:38- ..going up and down, - up and down all the way there...

0:05:38 > 0:05:41- ..it feels like twice that distance.

0:05:42 > 0:05:46- From afar, Little Skellig - looks like a white island.

0:05:47 > 0:05:50- But it's not the rock - that gives it its colour...

0:05:50 > 0:05:55- ..but the thousands of birds - and the blanket of excrement.

0:05:59 > 0:06:03- What a sight - - 30,000 pairs of gannets...

0:06:03 > 0:06:06- ..covering the entire island.

0:06:06 > 0:06:09- I doubt there is - an inch of space left.

0:06:09 > 0:06:14- You won't get a better sight - anywhere in the world.

0:06:17 > 0:06:21- There is some debate over the size - of this nesting colony.

0:06:21 > 0:06:24- Grassholm or Bass Rock or here...

0:06:24 > 0:06:29- ..is the second largest in the world - after St Kilda in Scotland.

0:06:29 > 0:06:32- But who's counting - and what does it matter?

0:06:32 > 0:06:37- Wherever they are, - it's a privilege to watch gannets...

0:06:37 > 0:06:40- ..especially - in such a magical place.

0:07:02 > 0:07:07- There's also another reason - why I've come to Little Skellig.

0:07:07 > 0:07:10- If the rock above the water - isn't enough of a wonder...

0:07:10 > 0:07:15- ..the 70 metres of rock - beneath the surface...

0:07:15 > 0:07:18- ..is also teeming with wildlife.

0:07:18 > 0:07:20- It's time to find out for myself.

0:07:21 > 0:07:22- Away you go, Iolo.

0:07:43 > 0:07:44- Look at this forest.

0:07:45 > 0:07:47- This is kelp.

0:07:47 > 0:07:51- It's just as rich - as any tropical forest.

0:07:52 > 0:07:57- Look closely and you'll notice - lots of crabs, lobsters, anemones...

0:07:58 > 0:08:00- ..and all kinds of creatures.

0:08:13 > 0:08:18- You have to swim carefully because - there are so many creatures here.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23- The sea is incredibly fertile...

0:08:23 > 0:08:27- ..partly because of the gannets...

0:08:27 > 0:08:29- ..all 30,000 of them...

0:08:29 > 0:08:33- ..excreting into the water.

0:08:33 > 0:08:35- Furthermore...

0:08:35 > 0:08:38- ..it's here - that the cold North Atlantic...

0:08:39 > 0:08:42- ..meets the warm Gulf Stream...

0:08:42 > 0:08:44- ..all the way from the Caribbean.

0:08:45 > 0:08:47- When both oceans combine...

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- ..they provide an abundance of food - for marine life.

0:09:07 > 0:09:12- Wow! There are starfish - dotted all around.

0:09:13 > 0:09:15- Incredible.

0:09:24 > 0:09:27- These are jewel anemones.

0:09:27 > 0:09:32- I saw some in the sea around Sark, - but nothing like this.

0:09:32 > 0:09:36- This is a colony of thousands - of small animals cohabiting...

0:09:36 > 0:09:39- ..and creating - their own pretty picture.

0:09:39 > 0:09:45- On them, like a big hedgehog, - is the sea urchin.

0:09:45 > 0:09:48- It normally grazes on seaweed...

0:09:48 > 0:09:50- ..so it's more of a sheep - than a hedgehog.

0:09:57 > 0:10:00- Look at these anemones.

0:10:00 > 0:10:04- Thousands of them everywhere, - and so many different colours.

0:10:04 > 0:10:08- The majority of these - are dahlia anemones.

0:10:08 > 0:10:10- They're remarkable.

0:10:10 > 0:10:14- There are starfish everywhere too.

0:10:14 > 0:10:16- They eat shellfish.

0:10:17 > 0:10:19- I don't think I've ever seen...

0:10:19 > 0:10:24- ..such a thriving habitat - on the mainland.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31- Little Skellig - is caught between two worlds.

0:10:31 > 0:10:36- Between the cold North Atlantic - and the warm Gulf Stream...

0:10:37 > 0:10:40- ..and also between the wildlife - that relies on the sea...

0:10:41 > 0:10:45- ..and the bird life that has - evolved into a nesting colony.

0:10:45 > 0:10:47- But for many centuries...

0:10:48 > 0:10:50- ..Skellig Michael, - the larger island...

0:10:51 > 0:10:54- ..has also been caught - between two worlds.

0:10:54 > 0:10:57- The real world - and the spiritual world.

0:10:57 > 0:11:00- It is to Skellig Michael - that I travel next...

0:11:00 > 0:11:03- ..to see a remarkable monastery...

0:11:03 > 0:11:08- ..and to hear strange noises - echoing among its ancient walls.

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0:11:31 > 0:11:34- Skellig Michael - is an extraordinary place.

0:11:34 > 0:11:36- It's worth coming here...

0:11:37 > 0:11:40- ..just for the view - of Little Skellig in the distance.

0:11:41 > 0:11:45- It's no wonder the island is now - a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

0:11:47 > 0:11:52- The monastery buildings - have been here for 1,400 years.

0:11:52 > 0:11:56- Though uninhabited, - the monks' dwellings remain...

0:11:56 > 0:12:02- ..resembling six stone igloos - or old-fashioned beehives.

0:12:03 > 0:12:06- Two small chapels also remain.

0:12:18 > 0:12:24- Strange noises are still heard - among these ancient walls.

0:12:24 > 0:12:27- That isn't a myth - or a bit of blarney!

0:12:28 > 0:12:31- Thousands of people - come here each year...

0:12:32 > 0:12:34- ..to visit - this remarkable monastery.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37- It took two centuries to build.

0:12:37 > 0:12:42- By building such thick walls, - purely by chance...

0:12:43 > 0:12:47- ..the monks provided - the perfect habitat for a bird...

0:12:47 > 0:12:50- ..called the storm petrel.

0:12:50 > 0:12:53- It is a nocturnal seabird.

0:12:53 > 0:12:57- I won't be able to see it, - but if you listen...

0:12:57 > 0:12:59- ..you can hear one calling.

0:13:12 > 0:13:16- I saw a storm petrel - in daylight recently.

0:13:16 > 0:13:22- Not in Ireland, but at the start - of my journey, off the Azores.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26- Petrel is a derivative of Peter.

0:13:26 > 0:13:31- It refers to a bird that sticks out - its legs while flying...

0:13:31 > 0:13:34- ..as though it were trying - to walk on water...

0:13:34 > 0:13:36- ..like St Peter in the Bible.

0:13:55 > 0:13:58- From the enchanting - Skellig Islands...

0:13:58 > 0:14:03- ..I return to the mainland - and the Killarney National Park.

0:14:09 > 0:14:11- It's a beautiful area...

0:14:11 > 0:14:15- ..that attracts tourists - from around the world...

0:14:15 > 0:14:18- ..to enjoy the views - and tranquillity.

0:14:18 > 0:14:22- But I'm here to see - this unexpected habitat.

0:14:22 > 0:14:24- Reenadinna Wood.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40- This is a very odd place.

0:14:42 > 0:14:44- When I came here...

0:14:44 > 0:14:48- ..I felt as if I was walking - into a different world.

0:14:49 > 0:14:51- These are all yew trees.

0:14:51 > 0:14:54- There is very little on the ground - apart from moss.

0:14:54 > 0:15:00- The surface is littered with stones - covered in a thick blanket of moss.

0:15:00 > 0:15:05- I don't think I've ever been - in a forest in springtime...

0:15:05 > 0:15:08- ..that's as quiet - and lifeless as this.

0:15:10 > 0:15:12- I can't hear a single bird singing.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15- It's silent.

0:15:19 > 0:15:24- It might be an odd place, - but it's also a very rare habitat.

0:15:24 > 0:15:28- There are only three yew forests - in the whole of Europe.

0:15:29 > 0:15:32- Why yew trees, I hear you ask.

0:15:32 > 0:15:37- The reason for that is because - there is limestone underfoot...

0:15:37 > 0:15:40- ..and very little soil.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44- The yew's roots - extend far and wide...

0:15:44 > 0:15:48- ..so they're able to survive - where other trees can't.

0:15:48 > 0:15:53- Maybe that the lack of diversity - is behind the lack of birds.

0:15:53 > 0:15:55- It's very moist, of course.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58- That explains the covering of moss.

0:15:59 > 0:16:05- It's a very interesting place, - with a remarkable atmosphere.

0:16:10 > 0:16:15- I can't say I enjoyed the haunting - ambience of the yew forest...

0:16:16 > 0:16:18- ..but I'm glad to have seen it.

0:16:18 > 0:16:21- It was a memorable experience.

0:16:28 > 0:16:32- Near another - of Killarney's woodlands...

0:16:32 > 0:16:34- ..is something closer to my heart.

0:16:35 > 0:16:39- I catch my first glimpse of one - of Ireland's rarest creatures.

0:16:40 > 0:16:42- Red deer.

0:16:59 > 0:17:04- It's incredibly difficult - to get close to red deer.

0:17:04 > 0:17:08- Those in the distance - are mothers with their young.

0:17:08 > 0:17:11- They're staying - on the edge of the trees.

0:17:11 > 0:17:15- At the first sign of danger, - they retreat into the forest.

0:17:15 > 0:17:18- The smaller deer are lying down.

0:17:18 > 0:17:22- If I approach, - I know they'll run away.

0:17:22 > 0:17:25- Red deer - have an interesting history.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28- These are the only - native red deer in Ireland.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32- They've been here - since the end of the Ice Age.

0:17:32 > 0:17:36- There are other species of deer - in Ireland nowadays...

0:17:36 > 0:17:40- ..but they were all introduced - to the country.

0:17:40 > 0:17:44- A century ago, only 100 red deer - were left in this region.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55- The young are smaller in size...

0:17:56 > 0:17:59- ..and have a mottled coat.

0:17:59 > 0:18:03- When they lie down - in dense undergrowth...

0:18:03 > 0:18:05- ..they are impossible to spot.

0:18:09 > 0:18:11- That's as near as we'll get.

0:18:11 > 0:18:14- They're starting to huddle together.

0:18:14 > 0:18:17- They'll vanish into the trees - if I get any closer.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25- Having been privileged - to spend a short time...

0:18:26 > 0:18:30- ..with the Killarney deer, I return - to the wonders of the coast.

0:18:37 > 0:18:42- It's somehow hard to believe - that the Atlantic's ferocity...

0:18:42 > 0:18:46- ..is responsible - for what we consider beautiful.

0:18:47 > 0:18:51- The picturesque bays - along the west coast.

0:18:54 > 0:18:56- The marshlands.

0:18:58 > 0:19:00- The cliffs.

0:19:00 > 0:19:03- In County Clare, - the pinnacle of the battle...

0:19:03 > 0:19:06- ..between land and sea is evident.

0:19:13 > 0:19:18- The world-famous Cliffs of Moher - stretch for eight kilometres.

0:19:18 > 0:19:22- They rise to 700 feet, - or over 200 metres, above sea level.

0:19:30 > 0:19:34- It's a constant battle - between land and sea here.

0:19:34 > 0:19:39- The sea - gradually erodes the coast...

0:19:40 > 0:19:44- ..creating majestic cliffs - and nesting habitats for seabirds.

0:19:44 > 0:19:48- Looking down there, - I can spot gulls...

0:19:48 > 0:19:50- ..fulmars...

0:19:51 > 0:19:54- ..razorbills and guillemots - in their thousands...

0:19:54 > 0:19:58- ..going to catch fish - and returning to their nests.

0:19:58 > 0:20:04- I'm looking down at them, - circling above the white waves.

0:20:04 > 0:20:07- They're like - industrious bees in a hive.

0:20:35 > 0:20:38- Your eyes are drawn to the waves...

0:20:38 > 0:20:41- ..and the thousands of seabirds.

0:20:41 > 0:20:44- Sometimes, you forget to look up.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47- There are peregrine falcons about.

0:20:47 > 0:20:51- I saw a male earlier, - but he has disappeared for now.

0:20:51 > 0:20:56- I was studying the graceful flight - of the fulmar...

0:20:56 > 0:21:00- ..when I spotted - a single falcon circling overhead.

0:21:01 > 0:21:04- I think he was showing off - rather than hunting.

0:21:04 > 0:21:08- That's when you realize - he's the true master of the sky.

0:21:10 > 0:21:15- The female is darker - and slightly larger than the male.

0:21:15 > 0:21:17- Look carefully at her wings.

0:21:17 > 0:21:21- One of the main flight feathers - is missing on both wings.

0:21:22 > 0:21:25- They moult once a year.

0:21:25 > 0:21:29- If they shed one feather - from their right wing...

0:21:29 > 0:21:32- ..the same one - on the left wing is also shed.

0:21:32 > 0:21:36- It keeps them perfectly balanced. - It has to be that way.

0:21:38 > 0:21:42- The male has returned. - He must have been hunting after all.

0:21:42 > 0:21:45- He has passed her some food - - a fledgling.

0:21:45 > 0:21:49- There must be a nest - somewhere on these cliffs.

0:21:54 > 0:21:59- On the next leg of my journey, - I follow a hare.

0:21:59 > 0:22:02- I've spent all morning - looking for them...

0:22:02 > 0:22:05- ..and now three turn up at once.

0:22:06 > 0:22:12- I also explore - beneath Ireland's famous Burren.

0:22:13 > 0:22:15- It's an incredible habitat.

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0:22:26 > 0:22:29- The little village of Doolin.

0:22:29 > 0:22:33- During the summer, - musicians the world over...

0:22:33 > 0:22:36- ..come here to enjoy the craic.

0:22:36 > 0:22:38- Good luck to them, I say...

0:22:38 > 0:22:43- ..but I prefer the music - of the Irish woods and fields...

0:22:43 > 0:22:48- ..and the craic of discovering - another of Ireland's rare treasures.

0:22:51 > 0:22:54- I've been looking for this - all morning.

0:22:55 > 0:22:57- There are three of them - in this field.

0:22:57 > 0:22:59- It's like waiting for a bus.

0:23:00 > 0:23:04- Nothing for ages - and three turn up at once.

0:23:04 > 0:23:07- It's a hare, - but not the one we're used to.

0:23:08 > 0:23:10- This is the Irish hare.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13- It's a subspecies - of the mountain hare...

0:23:14 > 0:23:18- ..that's found - in the Scottish highlands.

0:23:18 > 0:23:22- The mountain hare - turns white during the winter.

0:23:22 > 0:23:24- The Irish hare doesn't.

0:23:24 > 0:23:28- The hares we have in Wales - are European hares.

0:23:28 > 0:23:32- They're lighter, - a sandy brown colour.

0:23:32 > 0:23:34- This is much darker.

0:23:35 > 0:23:40- This one is squatting - - I can only see its head.

0:23:40 > 0:23:45- The hares at the far end - are further away and feel safer.

0:23:46 > 0:23:48- They're feeding happily.

0:23:49 > 0:23:51- I'm going to have another look - at this one.

0:23:52 > 0:23:54- This one has started to feed.

0:23:54 > 0:23:59- She's now used to my presence - and is far more relaxed.

0:23:59 > 0:24:02- On the whole, - they're very shy creatures.

0:24:02 > 0:24:05- These are the first ones I've seen.

0:24:05 > 0:24:07- They're shot usually...

0:24:07 > 0:24:11- ..but we're in a village - that attracts many tourists.

0:24:12 > 0:24:14- I think they're left alone here.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17- That's why they aren't as shy - as the others.

0:24:17 > 0:24:19- I hope she stays - so that I can watch her.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44- Less than five miles - north of Doolin...

0:24:45 > 0:24:51- ..I reach an area that excites - scientists and visitors alike.

0:24:51 > 0:24:53- This is the Burren.

0:24:55 > 0:24:57- The word burren means a stony place.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01- Yes, the Irish tell it as it is.

0:25:16 > 0:25:20- This is the habitat that's always - associated with the Burren.

0:25:21 > 0:25:25- Limestone, especially - limestone pavements...

0:25:25 > 0:25:28- ..with these long crevices - in the rock...

0:25:28 > 0:25:31- ..more commonly known as grikes - by geologists.

0:25:31 > 0:25:34- Most of the plants - grow in these crevices...

0:25:34 > 0:25:37- ..because this is where - the soil is located.

0:25:38 > 0:25:40- Strong winds - sweep in from the sea...

0:25:40 > 0:25:44- ..and plant life can only survive - in these crevices.

0:25:44 > 0:25:50- Over 70% of Ireland's native species - can be found in the Burren.

0:25:50 > 0:25:55- That's about 700 different types - of flowers, ferns and so on.

0:25:56 > 0:25:59- It's an area - of international importance.

0:25:59 > 0:26:05- Some of these plants - have been here since the Ice Age.

0:26:05 > 0:26:07- They also grow in the Alps.

0:26:08 > 0:26:11- Alongside those - are other plants...

0:26:11 > 0:26:17- ..that we normally associate - with warmer Continental countries.

0:26:17 > 0:26:19- This is the only place in Europe...

0:26:19 > 0:26:23- ..where both kinds of plants - grow side by side.

0:26:23 > 0:26:25- It's a unique place.

0:26:26 > 0:26:29- Take this flower, mountain avens.

0:26:30 > 0:26:33- It grows on Y Gribyn and Creigiau - Gleision, and in Cwm Idwal.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37- It's an upland plant - of the Arctic and the Alps.

0:26:37 > 0:26:39- Here, it's found on the shore.

0:26:40 > 0:26:44- Growing within a stone's throw - is bloody cranesbill.

0:26:44 > 0:26:49- It's common on sand dunes - and limestone rocks...

0:26:49 > 0:26:51- ..on the Great Orme and the Gower.

0:26:51 > 0:26:54- Here, it grows with mountain avens.

0:26:54 > 0:26:58- It's a mystery, but there might be - some kind of explanation.

0:26:59 > 0:27:03- Ireland is a turning point - on my journey.

0:27:03 > 0:27:07- Influences from north and south - meet and mix.

0:27:07 > 0:27:10- It's worth noting - that we're so far north now...

0:27:11 > 0:27:14- ..that we should be seeing - icebergs in the sea.

0:27:14 > 0:27:17- As an Arctic and highland plant...

0:27:18 > 0:27:22- ..mountain avens - should feel at home here.

0:27:27 > 0:27:31- The reason that there are - no icebergs here...

0:27:31 > 0:27:34- ..is the Gulf Stream's warmth.

0:27:34 > 0:27:38- It brings the heat - of Central America to Ireland...

0:27:38 > 0:27:42- ..and sustains plants - growing in the Burren.

0:27:42 > 0:27:48- It also brings something else - synonymous with Ireland.

0:27:48 > 0:27:49- Rain.

0:27:50 > 0:27:56- This combination of rain and heat - make Ireland a truly green island.

0:27:56 > 0:27:58- The rain, slightly acidic...

0:27:59 > 0:28:03- ..is responsible for these splits - in the Burren limestone.

0:28:03 > 0:28:08- Drop by drop, - the water eats into the limestone.

0:28:08 > 0:28:12- It creates the grikes - and shapes the landscape.

0:28:15 > 0:28:18- No matter where you look...

0:28:18 > 0:28:23- ..the effect of the rainfall - on the rock is very evident...

0:28:23 > 0:28:25- ..even across those hills.

0:28:26 > 0:28:30- The limestone stretches for miles - in every direction.

0:28:30 > 0:28:35- What's even more surprising - is the lack of water on the surface.

0:28:35 > 0:28:38- There are hardly any lakes, - streams or rivers.

0:28:38 > 0:28:42- If you want to know what happens - to the water, look underground.

0:29:12 > 0:29:16- Yeah, grand. Trying to get myself - around a bit here.

0:29:20 > 0:29:23- In the water. Thanks, lads, - you never told me about this.

0:29:32 > 0:29:34- These caves are very dangerous.

0:29:35 > 0:29:37- OK, Tom, I'm off.

0:29:37 > 0:29:42- I can't tell you how glad I am - to have Tom Chapman's company.

0:29:42 > 0:29:46- He's the one in yellow - and he's an expert on ropes.

0:29:46 > 0:29:50- Terry Casserly is very familiar - with the Burren caves.

0:29:51 > 0:29:55- My safety, even my life, - is in their hands.

0:30:06 > 0:30:08- There's water underground.

0:30:08 > 0:30:11- It's everywhere underfoot...

0:30:11 > 0:30:14- ..but when you look - at the smooth cave walls...

0:30:14 > 0:30:17- ..one thing becomes evident.

0:30:17 > 0:30:21- A powerful river of water - created these tunnels.

0:30:36 > 0:30:39- This waterfall is evidence - that water flows...

0:30:39 > 0:30:43- ..not only underground, - but far underground.

0:30:43 > 0:30:47- I'm around 15 metres - under the surface.

0:30:48 > 0:30:52- It's strange to think - that millions of people...

0:30:52 > 0:30:56- ..visit the Burren every year - to see the natural wonders...

0:30:56 > 0:30:59- ..but hardly any of them - venture underground.

0:30:59 > 0:31:04- One river, the Caher, - does flow on the surface.

0:31:04 > 0:31:07- It flows north-westwards.

0:31:08 > 0:31:13- The water down here, and the cave, - runs south-eastwards.

0:31:14 > 0:31:16- In an entirely different direction.

0:31:17 > 0:31:20- There's something very Irish - about that!

0:31:25 > 0:31:27- There's another strange quirk.

0:31:27 > 0:31:31- I may well be 15 metres - underground now...

0:31:31 > 0:31:36- ..but I'm walking through rocks - that formed millions of years ago...

0:31:36 > 0:31:38- ..under the sea.

0:31:39 > 0:31:44- I'm walking through the graveyard - of billions of tiny creatures...

0:31:44 > 0:31:49- ..that died, fell to the seabed - and formed a layer of limestone.

0:31:50 > 0:31:53- That layer - is 700 metres thick in places.

0:31:53 > 0:31:59- There are some incredible - natural shapes in these caves...

0:31:59 > 0:32:03- ..but they were formed - by a simple process.

0:32:03 > 0:32:08- The acidic rain falls on the land - above us and erodes the limestone.

0:32:08 > 0:32:13- When the water - filters underground...

0:32:13 > 0:32:19- ..the rock re-forms slowly - to create remarkable shapes.

0:32:44 > 0:32:47- I remember a friend telling me - that he'd visited the Burren.

0:32:48 > 0:32:51- He said the underground rock - was like a lump of cheese.

0:32:51 > 0:32:55- I didn't realize what he meant - until I came down here today.

0:32:55 > 0:32:57- It's incredible.

0:32:57 > 0:33:02- Around 250km of caves - have already been mapped out here...

0:33:02 > 0:33:06- ..but I'm sure there are more - hiding underground...

0:33:07 > 0:33:09- ..waiting to be discovered.

0:33:09 > 0:33:12- It's an incredible habitat.

0:33:15 > 0:33:18- The water doesn't flow - to the valley in the Burren.

0:33:18 > 0:33:20- It flows deep underground.

0:33:23 > 0:33:26- From the Burren's - subterranean beauty...

0:33:27 > 0:33:30- ..I head back to the open air.

0:33:30 > 0:33:36- After the break, I'll take you - across Galway Bay to Connemara...

0:33:36 > 0:33:39- ..and on to a tiny island - further north...

0:33:40 > 0:33:44- ..where I hear an old familiar call - in an unfamiliar place.

0:33:45 > 0:33:48- I expected to hear this bird, - but I didn't expect to see it.

0:33:51 > 0:33:51- .

0:33:54 > 0:33:55- Subtitles

0:33:55 > 0:33:57- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:34:05 > 0:34:08- The wilds of Connemara - are stunningly beautiful.

0:34:09 > 0:34:14- You can see the cold footprint - of the Ice Age wherever you look.

0:34:17 > 0:34:19- Take Clew Bay, for example.

0:34:20 > 0:34:24- They say that it has 365 islands, - one for every day of the year.

0:34:25 > 0:34:27- That's clearly nonsense.

0:34:27 > 0:34:31- There are only 117, - and most aren't even islands.

0:34:31 > 0:34:35- They're drumlins, - gravel and rock deposits...

0:34:35 > 0:34:40- ..left behind as glaciers thawed - and flowed towards the sea.

0:34:45 > 0:34:47- Next, I head back to the hills...

0:34:48 > 0:34:51- ..to County Mayo's - Ballycroy National Park...

0:34:52 > 0:34:56- ..to search for the golden plover, - a favourite rare bird of mine.

0:34:57 > 0:35:02- I'm joined by Cameron Clotworthy, - one of the park's wardens.

0:35:02 > 0:35:06- He has studied these little birds - for many years.

0:35:06 > 0:35:09- How far are we going to go - up here, Cameron?

0:35:09 > 0:35:13- Another kilometre, - up to the trigonometry point.

0:35:13 > 0:35:17- We've got a really nice - blanket bog habitat up here.

0:35:17 > 0:35:20- It's actually a designated site.

0:35:20 > 0:35:25- It's good-quality bog - and hopefully we'll spot a plover.

0:35:30 > 0:35:32- I'm going to go up here - and have a look.

0:35:36 > 0:35:40- We've reached the top, - and it's very flat.

0:35:40 > 0:35:45- It reminds me of Elenydd, - where I used to seek golden plovers.

0:35:45 > 0:35:49- Cameron says there are - between 15 and 20 pairs here.

0:35:49 > 0:35:52- That's quite a lot - in such a small area.

0:35:52 > 0:35:56- Finding them is the challenge, - especially in this wind.

0:35:56 > 0:36:01- This wet, peaty land - is the perfect place.

0:36:01 > 0:36:05- They nest on the dry areas and take - their chicks to the wetter areas.

0:36:05 > 0:36:10- We've heard one calling - and we're looking for it now.

0:36:10 > 0:36:12- I'll go after Cameron now.

0:36:16 > 0:36:20- There are around 300 pairs - of golden plovers in Ireland.

0:36:20 > 0:36:22- It doesn't sound like a lot...

0:36:22 > 0:36:27- ..but there are only - some 40 birds in total in Wales...

0:36:27 > 0:36:31- ..they should count their blessings.

0:36:33 > 0:36:39- They face the same problems now - that we faced 20-30 years ago.

0:36:39 > 0:36:42- Alien Sitka and pine trees...

0:36:42 > 0:36:46- ..are a perfect habitat - for crows and foxes.

0:36:47 > 0:36:53- After hours of searching, - surely I'll see one golden plover?

0:36:55 > 0:36:57- Can you see it now, Cameron?

0:36:58 > 0:37:00- It's just dipped - behind a mound there.

0:37:01 > 0:37:06- That was the male, with the lovely - black chest and breast.

0:37:06 > 0:37:10- Absolutely - the really prominent - plumage colouring on the breast.

0:37:11 > 0:37:14- He's just gone - behind that mound over there.

0:37:14 > 0:37:16- I've got you.

0:37:20 > 0:37:22- He has good eyesight.

0:37:22 > 0:37:28- He has found a male - on one of the little mounds.

0:37:29 > 0:37:32- The male has a dark breast...

0:37:33 > 0:37:36- ..and the golden feathers - that give it its name.

0:37:36 > 0:37:40- It shows you how difficult it is - to find these birds.

0:37:40 > 0:37:43- We're in an area - where there are at least 15 pairs.

0:37:44 > 0:37:47- We've been searching - for almost four hours.

0:37:47 > 0:37:50- This is the first bird we've seen.

0:37:50 > 0:37:55- The female and her eggs - are going to be somewhere nearby.

0:37:55 > 0:38:01- Cameron thinks the male will take - over from her and sit on the eggs.

0:38:02 > 0:38:06- He'll sneak in slowly - and she'll take off.

0:38:06 > 0:38:09- I haven't seen the female, - only the male.

0:38:09 > 0:38:11- He has disappeared now.

0:38:11 > 0:38:14- They're such beautiful birds.

0:38:37 > 0:38:41- If you head north-west - through County Mayo...

0:38:42 > 0:38:45- ..you reach one - of the least-populated areas...

0:38:45 > 0:38:48- ..not only in Ireland, - but in the whole of Europe.

0:38:48 > 0:38:50- I can say one thing - and truly mean it.

0:38:51 > 0:38:55- The wilds of Donegal - may have been hostile...

0:38:55 > 0:39:01- ..to humans over the centuries, - but the views are breathtaking.

0:39:07 > 0:39:12- Here in the Derryveagh Mountains - is Glenveagh National Park.

0:39:12 > 0:39:16- For geologists, - this valley is quite wondrous.

0:39:16 > 0:39:20- It follows a fault line - in the earth's crust...

0:39:21 > 0:39:25- ..that runs from here - to Loch Ness in Scotland.

0:39:25 > 0:39:27- But why am I here?

0:39:27 > 0:39:32- After all, there are no deer, - eagles or rare plants in sight.

0:39:35 > 0:39:37- No, there's something else.

0:39:37 > 0:39:41- The place itself. It's enchanting.

0:39:41 > 0:39:46- It's so remote and so wild, - yet so beautiful.

0:39:47 > 0:39:53- Once again, I realize that I'm meant - to be in places like this.

0:39:57 > 0:40:00- Is there sometimes a danger - of romanticizing too much?

0:40:03 > 0:40:07- I don't really know why I decided - that today was the day...

0:40:07 > 0:40:10- ..to challenge - the Atlantic's wild waves.

0:40:13 > 0:40:18- I'm crossing to Inishbofin - and the weather is terrible.

0:40:18 > 0:40:22- It's only a ten-minute journey - from the mainland...

0:40:22 > 0:40:26- ..but it's very dangerous - in such strong winds.

0:40:26 > 0:40:29- I'm looking forward - to getting over there.

0:40:29 > 0:40:33- The islanders' way of life - hasn't changed for decades.

0:40:33 > 0:40:37- Electricity didn't arrive - until fairly recently.

0:40:37 > 0:40:41- The farming methods mirror those - of Wales over 50 years ago.

0:40:41 > 0:40:45- Birds like the corncrake - can still be seen there.

0:40:45 > 0:40:50- I haven't seen one for many years - and I can't wait to get there.

0:40:52 > 0:40:58- Even before landing, - I see two magnificent birds.

0:40:58 > 0:41:01- This is a great northern diver...

0:41:01 > 0:41:03- ..and a male eider duck.

0:41:04 > 0:41:08- Two beautiful birds - usually found in northern climes.

0:41:09 > 0:41:14- On the beach, - I see a number of common birds...

0:41:14 > 0:41:18- ..such as the ringed plover, - another northern bird.

0:41:23 > 0:41:28- Rock pipits are everywhere here, - and that's the point.

0:41:29 > 0:41:34- The sheer number of birds make this - a paradise for bird lovers.

0:41:52 > 0:41:54- I love hearing the call - of the lapwing.

0:41:55 > 0:41:56- Peewit, peewit.

0:41:57 > 0:42:01- There are five or six pairs - flying above us here.

0:42:01 > 0:42:06- In the fields behind me, there are - up to a dozen pairs of skylarks.

0:42:16 > 0:42:18- It feels as if someone, - 50 years ago...

0:42:19 > 0:42:23- ..ripped a piece off Ireland - and threw it into the sea.

0:42:23 > 0:42:27- It's a great place, - two and a half kilometres long...

0:42:27 > 0:42:29- ..and a kilometre wide.

0:42:30 > 0:42:34- There's such a rich tapestry - of wildlife in such a small area.

0:42:34 > 0:42:38- There's another one - flying over there.

0:42:45 > 0:42:51- I said earlier that I was coming - to Inishbofin to see the corncrake.

0:42:51 > 0:42:54- And no, I haven't been disappointed.

0:42:54 > 0:42:57- I've been pleasantly surprised.

0:42:58 > 0:43:00- RASPING BIRD CALL

0:43:23 > 0:43:27- This is something I expected - to hear but not to see.

0:43:28 > 0:43:31- This is a corncrake.

0:43:31 > 0:43:35- A male has popped its head up - and is calling out.

0:43:35 > 0:43:38- It's quietened down now. - There it goes again.

0:43:39 > 0:43:41- It's in the middle of the field.

0:43:41 > 0:43:43- Very rarely do you see this bird.

0:43:43 > 0:43:46- It's been hiding among the nettles.

0:43:46 > 0:43:51- There's another one the other side - of a wall over there...

0:43:51 > 0:43:54- ..answering this one's call.

0:43:54 > 0:43:57- Because there are two, - they're very noisy.

0:43:59 > 0:44:03- Back home, an area of land like this - would have been transformed.

0:44:04 > 0:44:07- The nettles would have been - sprayed with weedkiller.

0:44:08 > 0:44:12- But this land - has been sacrificed to the birds...

0:44:12 > 0:44:14- ..and they're flourishing.

0:44:14 > 0:44:16- Here, and in parts of Scotland...

0:44:17 > 0:44:20- ..are the only places - you'll see and hear these.

0:44:20 > 0:44:23- Taid told me - that when he was a youngster...

0:44:24 > 0:44:26- ..in the late 19th century - in Llanrug...

0:44:26 > 0:44:29- ..these were so noisy - during the night...

0:44:30 > 0:44:34- ..that the dogs were sent out - to keep them quiet.

0:44:34 > 0:44:37- They've disappeared completely - from Wales.

0:44:38 > 0:44:40- It's so nice - to hear this sound again.

0:44:41 > 0:44:43- RASPING BIRD CALL

0:45:00 > 0:45:03- They're very strange birds.

0:45:04 > 0:45:07- I was wrong. - There are four here, not two.

0:45:07 > 0:45:10- This one's very close, - beyond the wall.

0:45:10 > 0:45:13- There's one - at the top of the field...

0:45:13 > 0:45:17- ..one in the next field - and one in the distance over there.

0:45:17 > 0:45:20- You can see a head popping up - every now and then...

0:45:21 > 0:45:23- ..and the beak opening and closing.

0:45:23 > 0:45:25- It makes the sound - in one direction...

0:45:26 > 0:45:29- ..and turns its head and makes - the sound in another direction.

0:45:29 > 0:45:33- You think there's one - over there and one here...

0:45:33 > 0:45:36- ..but often, there's only one bird.

0:45:36 > 0:45:40- It lowers its head and disappears - into the undergrowth.

0:45:41 > 0:45:44- Then its head pops up - and it calls out again.

0:45:44 > 0:45:46- This is the male calling out.

0:45:46 > 0:45:50- The female is somewhere - in this undergrowth...

0:45:50 > 0:45:52- ..sitting on eggs.

0:45:52 > 0:45:56- I love listening to these birds, - I really do.

0:46:01 > 0:46:05- Listening to the corncrake - creates a longing inside me.

0:46:06 > 0:46:11- I'm on a tiny island in the west - of Ireland, facing the Atlantic.

0:46:12 > 0:46:16- The sound of a bird makes me long - for so many things...

0:46:16 > 0:46:20- ..that have almost disappeared - from fields back home in Wales.

0:46:22 > 0:46:25- This is an exhilarating experience.

0:46:25 > 0:46:29- It has made me excited - about the next leg of my journey.

0:46:32 > 0:46:36- Next week, I'm in Scotland, - one of my favourite places.

0:46:38 > 0:46:41- It's a huge country - with incredible views...

0:46:42 > 0:46:44- ..of islands and highlands.

0:46:44 > 0:46:47- Scotland is also full - of natural wonders.

0:46:48 > 0:46:51- It's a wonderful evening.

0:46:51 > 0:46:52- There's fur...

0:46:53 > 0:46:55- There are two chicks!

0:46:55 > 0:46:57- ..feathers and fish.

0:46:57 > 0:47:02- Wildlife that bridges the boundary - between land and sea.

0:47:02 > 0:47:05- You always hope - to see an otter here.

0:47:06 > 0:47:08- I never expected to see one - this close to me.

0:47:09 > 0:47:14- In the west of Scotland, - the adventure is sure to continue.

0:47:42 > 0:47:44- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:47:44 > 0:47:44- .