Ynys Manaw, Arfordir Gorllewin

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0:00:05 > 0:00:10- I'm on an incredible journey - along the west coast of Europe.

0:00:12 > 0:00:13- Crikey, what a place!

0:00:13 > 0:00:17- My journey began in the south, - in the Azores and Portugal.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20- I've always wanted to swim - with these.

0:00:20 > 0:00:22- I travelled through Spain...

0:00:23 > 0:00:25- A lynx, lads, a lynx.

0:00:25 > 0:00:27- ..France, the Channel Islands...

0:00:28 > 0:00:30- ..Cornwall and Ireland.

0:00:30 > 0:00:35- There's so much more to see before - I complete my journey in Iceland.

0:00:35 > 0:00:38- I'm swimming here...

0:00:38 > 0:00:40- ..between two continents.

0:00:40 > 0:00:44- Constant rhythms are coming - to the fore during my journey.

0:00:45 > 0:00:48- The way something common - in one country...

0:00:48 > 0:00:51- ..is rare in another.

0:00:51 > 0:00:56- But all these countries - share one common link.

0:00:56 > 0:00:58- That connection is the Atlantic.

0:00:59 > 0:01:03- The huge ocean that shapes - the western landscape...

0:01:04 > 0:01:05- ..of all the countries.

0:01:06 > 0:01:09- The wind whips in - all the way from America.

0:01:09 > 0:01:13- It helps sustain all kinds - of wildlife, in the sea...

0:01:13 > 0:01:18- I have to take great care here. - There are so many creatures.

0:01:18 > 0:01:22- ..on land, and in the sky - above our heads.

0:01:22 > 0:01:24- There are birds everywhere.

0:01:29 > 0:01:31- I'm on my way to Scotland.

0:01:31 > 0:01:37- I'm looking forward - to experiencing more adventure.

0:01:51 > 0:01:55- The Mull of Galloway lighthouse - is behind me.

0:01:55 > 0:01:57- I've reached Scotland.

0:01:57 > 0:02:01- This is Scotland's - most southerly point.

0:02:01 > 0:02:06- Ireland is around 25 miles - across the sea that way.

0:02:07 > 0:02:12- This is where my journey - along Scotland's west coast begins.

0:02:18 > 0:02:23- I expect interesting experiences - and adventures...

0:02:23 > 0:02:24- There's another one.

0:02:25 > 0:02:26- ..frustration...

0:02:27 > 0:02:29- Animals can drive you crazy!

0:02:29 > 0:02:31- ..natural beauty...

0:02:31 > 0:02:33- ..and fun.

0:02:33 > 0:02:35- There are two chicks.

0:02:35 > 0:02:37- This promises to be - a cracker of a journey.

0:02:38 > 0:02:39- Fantastic.

0:02:40 > 0:02:43- From my starting point - on the Mull of Galloway...

0:02:43 > 0:02:49- ..I head about 100 miles north - to the Knapdale Forest in Argyll.

0:02:52 > 0:02:54- Why am I here?

0:02:54 > 0:02:58- An animal has been reintroduced - to the area recently.

0:02:58 > 0:03:03- I can't wait to see it in the wild - - the European beaver.

0:03:03 > 0:03:07- Beavers haven't been seen in Wales - for over 900 years.

0:03:07 > 0:03:12- In Scotland, they last swam - in these lakes 400 years ago.

0:03:13 > 0:03:17- Today, in an experiment - supervised by Rob Needham...

0:03:17 > 0:03:22- ..twelve beavers from Norway - have new homes on four lochs here.

0:03:22 > 0:03:26- I'll have to wait until tonight - to spot them...

0:03:26 > 0:03:29- ..because they're mainly nocturnal.

0:03:30 > 0:03:33- Rob is showing me - the fruits of their labour...

0:03:33 > 0:03:36- ..an incredible dam - built from sticks and mud...

0:03:36 > 0:03:38- ..on the banks of Loch Coille Bharr.

0:03:39 > 0:03:41- It's a big dam, Rob.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44- It's approximately 30 metres.

0:03:46 > 0:03:49- Wow. There's a lot of work - gone into this.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54- Three, four animals. - It's an ongoing process.

0:03:54 > 0:03:58- They'll have worked on this - since release, so two years.

0:03:59 > 0:04:03- Rob's just told me that this dam - is about 30 metres long.

0:04:03 > 0:04:08- It's a metre and a half high - and it holds the water back here.

0:04:09 > 0:04:11- This loch is the size - of four rugby pitches.

0:04:12 > 0:04:14- That's incredible.

0:04:14 > 0:04:18- They use different pieces of wood - for different sections.

0:04:18 > 0:04:21- They use one type - to pack the wall...

0:04:21 > 0:04:24- ..and another type, - rowan in this case, I think...

0:04:25 > 0:04:27- ..to hold the wall back.

0:04:27 > 0:04:31- If you look at the way - they've gnawed through the wood...

0:04:31 > 0:04:34- ..they have powerful jaws and teeth.

0:04:34 > 0:04:39- They only need three bites - to gnaw their way through this.

0:04:39 > 0:04:42- Since all their teeth are sharp...

0:04:42 > 0:04:46- ..they don't need a chainsaw - to fell a tree of this size.

0:04:46 > 0:04:49- They're very busy foresters.

0:04:49 > 0:04:55- It's hard to believe that all this - work happens in the dead of night.

0:04:55 > 0:04:59- We constantly moan - about losing our wetlands.

0:04:59 > 0:05:04- Beavers create perfect wetlands - for all kinds of creatures.

0:05:04 > 0:05:06- Toads, fish, birds, insects.

0:05:07 > 0:05:09- It's incredible.

0:05:18 > 0:05:24- Beavers didn't disappear because - they harmed anyone or anything...

0:05:24 > 0:05:28- ..but because they were hunted - and killed for their fur.

0:05:30 > 0:05:32- Night is drawing in.

0:05:32 > 0:05:36- Hopefully, it's an opportunity - to spot them.

0:05:39 > 0:05:44- According to Rob, the best place - is on the banks of Loch Buic.

0:05:44 > 0:05:47- It's a lot smaller - than Loch Coille Bharr...

0:05:48 > 0:05:51- ..and there's a convenient path - along one side.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54- There are gaps between the trees - to see their lodge...

0:05:55 > 0:05:57- ..and them, - if they decide to come out.

0:06:03 > 0:06:05- I'm going to stand here.

0:06:07 > 0:06:10- I can see the lodge - in the distance.

0:06:11 > 0:06:13- It looks like a pile of sticks.

0:06:13 > 0:06:16- It's hard to see - with the sun in my eyes.

0:06:16 > 0:06:18- That's on the far side.

0:06:18 > 0:06:22- According to Rob, - they appear around eight o'clock.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25- It's 7.30pm.

0:06:25 > 0:06:29- I'm going to hang around quietly - for the next half an hour.

0:06:31 > 0:06:35- Despite the shabby appearance - of this mound of sticks...

0:06:35 > 0:06:37- ..from the outside...

0:06:37 > 0:06:40- ..the inside is a cosy - two-floor cottage...

0:06:41 > 0:06:45- ..with one room for the beavers - to clean and dry their fur...

0:06:45 > 0:06:49- ..and a further area above - for sleeping or raising their young.

0:06:50 > 0:06:52- To stay safe, - the front door is underwater...

0:06:53 > 0:06:56- ..to prevent anyone or anything - seeing them come and go.

0:06:56 > 0:06:58- And that's my problem.

0:07:01 > 0:07:03- I've been here for half an hour.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08- I'm not sure if I saw - some bubbles in the water...

0:07:09 > 0:07:11- ..moving that way.

0:07:11 > 0:07:14- The beaver's fur is so thick - when it's in the water.

0:07:15 > 0:07:18- It creates bubbles - and you can see a path of bubbles.

0:07:19 > 0:07:21- I'm not sure if I saw one or not.

0:07:21 > 0:07:26- I can't see in this sunlight, - so I'm going to head further along.

0:07:26 > 0:07:30- That might mean I won't be able - to see the lodge on the far side...

0:07:30 > 0:07:34- ..but if the beavers go anywhere, - they'll head that way.

0:07:35 > 0:07:37- I hope I can see one.

0:07:43 > 0:07:48- There's a rock over here, - so I'll slip in behind it.

0:08:05 > 0:08:10- An animal has appeared - right in front of the lodge.

0:08:10 > 0:08:13- It's coming this way.

0:08:13 > 0:08:16- I'm not going to speak or move.

0:08:16 > 0:08:20- I'm going to stay as still as I can - in case I scare it away.

0:08:31 > 0:08:33- It's gone to the other side - of the loch.

0:08:34 > 0:08:36- I can see it clearly.

0:08:38 > 0:08:44- Its nose, eyes and ears - are right at the top of its head...

0:08:44 > 0:08:49- ..and they're barely a centimetre - above the surface.

0:08:49 > 0:08:53- If it senses any danger, - all it has to do is submerge...

0:08:54 > 0:08:56- ..and disappear out of sight.

0:08:56 > 0:09:01- I can see the fur on its face - - I can see everything.

0:09:03 > 0:09:05- Fantastic.

0:09:20 > 0:09:23- It's a beautiful evening.

0:09:23 > 0:09:26- I've seen a beaver in the wild - for the first time.

0:09:30 > 0:09:32- They're vegetarians.

0:09:32 > 0:09:37- They eat plants, tree bark - and leaves they find in the water.

0:09:37 > 0:09:40- They're no threat to fish.

0:09:43 > 0:09:46- There's another one, - there's another one.

0:09:46 > 0:09:48- There are two.

0:09:48 > 0:09:53- The first one is still feeding - and another has followed it.

0:09:54 > 0:09:58- It's swimming along the water, - following the other one.

0:10:05 > 0:10:08- Both are feeding together, - side by side.

0:10:28 > 0:10:30- I feel so privileged.

0:10:30 > 0:10:34- I'm one of the first to see - these beavers in the wild.

0:10:34 > 0:10:36- It's fantastic.

0:10:54 > 0:10:59- Sixty miles north of Knapdale - is the town of Oban...

0:10:59 > 0:11:02- ..and the banks of Loch Linnhe.

0:11:02 > 0:11:07- It's a huge sea loch that runs - all the way up to Fort William.

0:11:13 > 0:11:18- Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak, - towers over the town.

0:11:20 > 0:11:23- I'm not heading - for the misty mountains today.

0:11:23 > 0:11:28- I'm taking the ferry west - to the village of Corran.

0:11:30 > 0:11:34- There, waiting for me, - is something rather unexpected.

0:11:37 > 0:11:40- I've just stepped off - the Corran ferry.

0:11:40 > 0:11:44- You often think you have - to visit wild, remote areas...

0:11:44 > 0:11:47- ..to find special wildlife, - but that's not true.

0:11:48 > 0:11:52- Three pairs of black guillemots - are nesting under the walkway.

0:11:52 > 0:11:57- From afar, it's as if someone - has put boxes out for them...

0:11:57 > 0:12:00- ..but they're not nesting boxes.

0:12:00 > 0:12:03- Whatever they are, - they're an ideal home.

0:12:03 > 0:12:07- They're pretty - black and white - with bright red legs.

0:12:07 > 0:12:10- When they open their beaks, - it's red on the inside.

0:12:13 > 0:12:15- The same happens in Wales.

0:12:16 > 0:12:21- They're rare in Wales, but they nest - in Holyhead and Fishguard harbours.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25- Their numbers - are on the increase back home.

0:12:27 > 0:12:29- There's another one!

0:12:57 > 0:13:01- This being the west of Scotland, - it's no surprise...

0:13:02 > 0:13:05- ..to find another loch nearby, - Loch Sunart!

0:13:05 > 0:13:09- Nestled in the mountains above it - is a national treasure.

0:13:09 > 0:13:11- The Ariundle Oakwoods.

0:13:22 > 0:13:28- It's a beautiful place, - and far north for such a forest.

0:13:28 > 0:13:33- The nearest oak woodland - in terms of size...

0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..is 200 miles south in Cumbria.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39- Is this the only reason - why Ariundle is so revered?

0:13:39 > 0:13:42- It's time to don my detective's hat.

0:13:46 > 0:13:48- I love exploring oak forests.

0:13:48 > 0:13:50- Ancient trees.

0:13:50 > 0:13:54- If you look around, - it seems entirely natural.

0:13:55 > 0:13:56- You wouldn't believe it...

0:13:57 > 0:14:01- ..but man has influenced - this place for centuries.

0:14:01 > 0:14:03- Look at this tree.

0:14:03 > 0:14:08- I say tree - - it has three trunks.

0:14:08 > 0:14:12- That suggests - that it's been trimmed low down...

0:14:12 > 0:14:16- ..and the wood taken away - to make charcoal.

0:14:16 > 0:14:21- That was used - in the lead and iron industries.

0:14:22 > 0:14:27- By now, the tree is covered - in lichen, moss and ferns.

0:14:32 > 0:14:36- That's what makes Ariundle - important for naturalists...

0:14:36 > 0:14:39- ..and appealing to visitors.

0:14:39 > 0:14:43- Not so much the trees themselves - but what grows on and around them.

0:14:48 > 0:14:52- The trees and what grows on them - might not be here at all...

0:14:52 > 0:14:56- ..without man's intervention - centuries ago.

0:14:56 > 0:14:59- However, - there has been another partner...

0:14:59 > 0:15:02- ..helping the process - of turning this forest...

0:15:03 > 0:15:07- ..into a treasure trove - of internationally-important plants.

0:15:07 > 0:15:09- This moss is incredible.

0:15:10 > 0:15:13- It's very thick. Look at this.

0:15:13 > 0:15:15- I could sleep on that.

0:15:16 > 0:15:18- Why does it flourish here?

0:15:18 > 0:15:21- Because of the influence - of the Atlantic Ocean.

0:15:21 > 0:15:26- Clouds that sweep in from the sea - collide with the high mountains.

0:15:26 > 0:15:28- That produces rain.

0:15:29 > 0:15:33- The rain is incredible. - It's wet here throughout the year.

0:15:33 > 0:15:35- You'll seldom have a dry week.

0:15:36 > 0:15:39- That's why mosses, - lichens and ferns flourish.

0:15:39 > 0:15:42- Moist oak forests, - such as this one...

0:15:43 > 0:15:48- ..were once in evidence - right along the European coast...

0:15:48 > 0:15:53- ..in Portugal, Spain, France, - Ireland, Wales and Scotland.

0:15:53 > 0:15:57- Today, we only see small pockets - of these ancient forests.

0:16:00 > 0:16:05- We have comparable oak forests - in many parts of Wales.

0:16:05 > 0:16:11- We might be too familiar with them - to appreciate their importance...

0:16:11 > 0:16:12- ..but I can assure you...

0:16:13 > 0:16:16- ..that Wales has nothing - to compare to my next destination.

0:16:18 > 0:16:23- The next leg of my journey - is on the horizon - the Hebrides.

0:16:24 > 0:16:25- .

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0:16:41 > 0:16:43- The Hebrides is a magical name...

0:16:43 > 0:16:47- ..that refers to dozens, if not - hundreds, of individual islands.

0:16:49 > 0:16:51- The ones I'm visiting...

0:16:51 > 0:16:55- ..are a group of three - of the most westerly of them all.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59- North Uist and South Uist...

0:16:59 > 0:17:04- ..and the small island - between them, Benbecula.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30- I've just arrived on Benbecula.

0:17:30 > 0:17:32- What a place.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34- Birds everywhere.

0:17:34 > 0:17:36- I can hear a corncrake.

0:17:37 > 0:17:40- There's a redshank nearby - with its chicks.

0:17:40 > 0:17:45- Lapwings, curlews - - all kinds of birds.

0:17:45 > 0:17:48- This brings back - so many fond memories.

0:17:48 > 0:17:52- As a young boy - of four or five years old...

0:17:52 > 0:17:56- ..I remember going with Taid - to the Lleyn Peninsula.

0:17:56 > 0:18:00- There were fields - full of flowers and birds.

0:18:00 > 0:18:05- That's all disappeared now, - but they can still be seen here.

0:18:06 > 0:18:10- What's the secret? It's simple. - Traditional farming.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15- Look at these islands from above...

0:18:15 > 0:18:21- ..and it's easy to see - why traditional farming suits them.

0:18:21 > 0:18:26- A large proportion of this land - is covered in water.

0:18:27 > 0:18:32- As much as one third - of North Uist is lakes.

0:18:34 > 0:18:39- The pastures, peat bogs, - mountains, lakes and beaches...

0:18:40 > 0:18:43- ..are home to all kinds of wildlife.

0:18:44 > 0:18:47- Some of them choose - rather odd places to feed.

0:18:52 > 0:18:57- This bay is called Stinky Bay, - and it's a very apt name.

0:18:57 > 0:18:59- It does stink here.

0:18:59 > 0:19:05- Atlantic storms carry tonnes - of seaweed onto the beach.

0:19:06 > 0:19:11- The seaweed rots slowly, - creating this putrid smell.

0:19:11 > 0:19:14- But these little birds - make good use of it.

0:19:15 > 0:19:19- These are eider ducks, - females with their chicks.

0:19:19 > 0:19:24- I think they're feeding - on snails and slugs.

0:19:24 > 0:19:29- They usually dive underwater - to feed on mussels.

0:19:44 > 0:19:49- When an eider duck makes its nest, - it uses its breast feathers.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52- They're thick and retain warmth.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55- It makes a circular nest - and lays its eggs.

0:19:55 > 0:19:58- Years ago, when the eggs hatched...

0:19:58 > 0:20:04- ..islanders used to collect - the nests and sell them.

0:20:04 > 0:20:08- It was those feathers - that were used to fill eiderdowns.

0:20:08 > 0:20:12- They're some of the warmest feathers - you'll find.

0:20:17 > 0:20:22- I leave Stinky Bay - for the fresher air...

0:20:22 > 0:20:25- ..of this glorious beach - on North Uist.

0:20:35 > 0:20:38- It's pleasant on the beach today...

0:20:38 > 0:20:41- ..but can you imagine it - in stormy conditions?

0:20:41 > 0:20:44- Storms sweep in - all the way from America.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47- Look at this sand.

0:20:47 > 0:20:51- It's white and bright, - just like being in the Bahamas.

0:20:51 > 0:20:56- These sand dunes have formed - as a result of the winds and storms.

0:20:56 > 0:21:00- There's a unique habitat - hiding behind them.

0:21:00 > 0:21:02- That's what I'm here to see.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11- Here it is - the machair.

0:21:18 > 0:21:21- The machair is a unique habitat - of pasture land.

0:21:21 > 0:21:24- It sustains all kinds of plants, - birds and insects.

0:21:25 > 0:21:28- You won't find some of these plants - anywhere else...

0:21:29 > 0:21:33- ..apart from the barren - northern Scottish coast...

0:21:33 > 0:21:35- ..and some parts of Ireland.

0:21:36 > 0:21:39- There are three reasons for this.

0:21:39 > 0:21:43- Firstly, this habitat is influenced - by the westerly winds...

0:21:43 > 0:21:46- ..which blow this white sand - over the land.

0:21:46 > 0:21:51- Secondly, constant rainfall - keeps the sandy soil in place...

0:21:51 > 0:21:53- ..and irrigates it.

0:21:53 > 0:21:55- Thirdly, man's influence.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58- For hundreds, maybe thousands, - of years...

0:21:58 > 0:22:02- ..the machair has been farmed - in a traditional manner...

0:22:02 > 0:22:05- ..just like the fields full of birds - I visited earlier.

0:22:06 > 0:22:09- In simple terms, those are - the ingredients of the machair.

0:22:11 > 0:22:13- This place is a sea of colour.

0:22:14 > 0:22:17- It feels as if someone - picked up a giant paintbrush...

0:22:17 > 0:22:20- ..and set to work - behind the sand dunes.

0:22:20 > 0:22:24- I've read about the machair - and I've seen photographs...

0:22:24 > 0:22:28- ..but only when you're here - do you truly appreciate its beauty.

0:22:29 > 0:22:34- These are all wild flowers, - and they're quite common ones.

0:22:34 > 0:22:38- Kidney vetch, red clovers, - white clovers and wild pansies.

0:22:38 > 0:22:42- None of them are rare, - but when you see them together...

0:22:43 > 0:22:46- ..it's a magnificent sight.

0:22:48 > 0:22:52- I'd like to say one more thing - about the machair.

0:22:52 > 0:22:54- It's about the word itself.

0:22:55 > 0:22:58- The 'ma' in machair - means the same as the 'ma'...

0:22:58 > 0:23:02- ..in 'maes', Machynlleth - and Mathafarn.

0:23:02 > 0:23:05- It means flat land.

0:23:05 > 0:23:10- As the machair now only exists - in areas where Gaelic is spoken...

0:23:11 > 0:23:14- ..there is a deeper meaning - to the word.

0:23:15 > 0:23:17- It's an emotional - and cultural meaning.

0:23:18 > 0:23:21- It's similar to our use - of the words 'aelwyd' and 'bro'.

0:23:21 > 0:23:26- It's no wonder - that the Gaelic TV series...

0:23:26 > 0:23:31- ..which is their equivalent - of Pobol Y Cwm is called Machair.

0:23:36 > 0:23:40- There's a familiar saying - in these parts.

0:23:40 > 0:23:44- If you don't like the weather, - come back in five minutes.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48- There's a lot of truth - in that phrase.

0:23:48 > 0:23:52- The Hebrides are as close - to the North Pole...

0:23:52 > 0:23:57- ..as Moscow - and Hudson Bay in Canada.

0:23:57 > 0:24:01- Here's a clear indication of that - - an Arctic tern.

0:24:01 > 0:24:05- They're more commonly found - in the Arctic Circle.

0:24:05 > 0:24:10- Of all the Earth's creatures, - Arctic terns migrate the furthest...

0:24:10 > 0:24:15- ..from the Arctic all the way - to Antarctica and back every year.

0:24:15 > 0:24:19- It's a round trip of 25,000 miles.

0:24:19 > 0:24:23- Not bad going for a bird - that weighs less than four ounces.

0:24:26 > 0:24:31- There is one more thing - I'd like to see here in Lochmaddy.

0:24:31 > 0:24:33- The otter.

0:24:50 > 0:24:52- I've been searching - for almost three hours.

0:24:53 > 0:24:56- I've seen - neither hide nor hair of one yet.

0:24:56 > 0:24:57- Until now.

0:25:14 > 0:25:17- I've hotfooted it - over to the end of this pier.

0:25:18 > 0:25:23- There's an otter in the water - about 100 yards away.

0:25:23 > 0:25:29- It's one creature I really wanted - to see on these western islands.

0:25:30 > 0:25:34- They're relatively common - but are difficult to find.

0:25:35 > 0:25:39- There are so many hiding places - among the seaweed.

0:25:39 > 0:25:43- This one is diving under the water, - searching for fish.

0:25:43 > 0:25:49- If I stay quiet and still, - it might come closer.

0:25:52 > 0:25:54- I can't see much of it right now.

0:25:54 > 0:25:58- It surfaces for a short while - and then dives back underwater.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14- It's coming closer.

0:26:14 > 0:26:16- Just over there.

0:26:16 > 0:26:18- It's over there now.

0:26:18 > 0:26:23- It's coming in, not towards me - but towards the far side.

0:26:25 > 0:26:29- It's gone around the corner. - It had something in its mouth.

0:26:29 > 0:26:31- It's gone to feed, - but I can't see it.

0:26:32 > 0:26:35- Animals can drive you crazy!

0:26:42 > 0:26:43- It's coming now.

0:26:44 > 0:26:46- I'm going to keep quiet and still.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49- It's coming towards me slowly.

0:26:59 > 0:27:02- Wow! You always hope - you'll see an otter here.

0:27:02 > 0:27:06- But I never thought - I'd see one this close to me.

0:27:18 > 0:27:21- An exhilarating experience.

0:27:22 > 0:27:25- My heart's beating like a drum.

0:27:32 > 0:27:36- On the next leg of my journey, - I visit an ancient forest...

0:27:36 > 0:27:39- ..that could be unique.

0:27:39 > 0:27:42- Why pine trees? Why not oak trees?

0:27:43 > 0:27:48- I also head to another group - of enchanting islands...

0:27:48 > 0:27:50- ..the Orkney Islands.

0:27:50 > 0:27:52- It's greener and less wild - than I expected.

0:27:53 > 0:27:56- As well as wildlife on land...

0:27:56 > 0:28:01- ..I see how nature blends - with the rusty remains of war.

0:28:04 > 0:28:05- .

0:28:07 > 0:28:07- Subtitles

0:28:07 > 0:28:09- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:28:18 > 0:28:22- I've now left the Hebrides - and I'm back on the mainland.

0:28:23 > 0:28:29- Further north, in Wester Ross, - the landscape changes dramatically.

0:28:31 > 0:28:34- This is picture postcard Scotland.

0:28:36 > 0:28:40- My first port of call, - nestled in the mountains...

0:28:40 > 0:28:46- ..is Loch Maree, which was carved - out of the land during the Ice Age.

0:28:46 > 0:28:50- Trees only reappeared thousands - of years after the Ice Age.

0:28:51 > 0:28:56- I've come to see these pine trees - in Beinn Eighe...

0:28:56 > 0:28:59- ..Britain's oldest - national nature reserve.

0:29:01 > 0:29:05- I really like - the ancient Scots pine trees.

0:29:05 > 0:29:08- They're sometimes called - granny pines.

0:29:08 > 0:29:12- Each one looks like a sculpture...

0:29:12 > 0:29:14- ..and each one is different.

0:29:15 > 0:29:18- This one is 400 years old.

0:29:18 > 0:29:20- It's not very big...

0:29:20 > 0:29:24- ..but when this started to grow, - wolves roamed the area.

0:29:25 > 0:29:30- Caledonian trees, - the Scots pine trees...

0:29:30 > 0:29:33- ..covered the Scottish highlands...

0:29:33 > 0:29:37- ..all the way across - to the west coast.

0:29:37 > 0:29:41- Today, less than one per cent - of those trees remain.

0:29:44 > 0:29:47- These trees are wonderful, - but they're also rather mysterious.

0:29:48 > 0:29:53- Scientists have discovered that - the genes of Beinn Eighe's pines...

0:29:53 > 0:29:57- ..differ to the genes - of other Caledonian pine trees.

0:29:57 > 0:30:00- How did they start growing here - after the Ice Age?

0:30:01 > 0:30:05- Did they come from Ireland - or lost lands under the sea?

0:30:05 > 0:30:08- Or did they survive here - through the Ice Age...

0:30:09 > 0:30:13- ..and remain here today, - granny pines and their offspring...

0:30:13 > 0:30:17- ..as witnesses to an ancient - landscape that was once here?

0:30:21 > 0:30:24- From Loch Maree and Beinn Eighe...

0:30:24 > 0:30:29- ..I head to the Scottish mainland's - most northerly point.

0:30:29 > 0:30:32- I'm crossing the famous strait - of Pentland Firth...

0:30:33 > 0:30:37- ..to somewhere I've never visited - before - the Orkneys.

0:30:52 > 0:30:54- I've reached the Orkney Islands.

0:30:54 > 0:30:59- I've always wanted to visit, - but I've never been here before.

0:30:59 > 0:31:02- The word Orkney - isn't an English word.

0:31:02 > 0:31:04- It's a Viking word.

0:31:05 > 0:31:08- The Orkney Islands are a collection - of over 70 islands.

0:31:08 > 0:31:12- Each one has been named - by the Vikings.

0:31:12 > 0:31:14- My first impression?

0:31:14 > 0:31:18- It's a lot greener and less wild - than I thought it would be...

0:31:18 > 0:31:21- ..but I know it's teeming - with wildlife.

0:31:23 > 0:31:28- The first place I'll look - for wildlife is Scapa Flow.

0:31:28 > 0:31:32- It's one of the world's largest - natural harbours.

0:31:33 > 0:31:38- It's around 120 square miles, - roughly twice the size of Cardiff.

0:31:38 > 0:31:43- For centuries, it has also played - a crucial role in history.

0:31:45 > 0:31:48- It's very quiet in Scapa Flow - this morning.

0:31:48 > 0:31:50- The waters are very still.

0:31:50 > 0:31:55- This scene looked very different - during both the world wars.

0:31:55 > 0:32:01- At the beginning of World War II, - a German U-boat came into the bay...

0:32:01 > 0:32:05- ..and sank the British battleship - Royal Oak.

0:32:05 > 0:32:09- The land mass behind me - is a series of islands...

0:32:09 > 0:32:12- ..with a gap between them - to allow the sea in.

0:32:12 > 0:32:18- Winston Churchill ordered - the closure of the four entrances.

0:32:18 > 0:32:22- Initially, they scuppered ships, - but that wasn't enough.

0:32:22 > 0:32:27- They then built a barrage of stones - and concrete to close the gaps.

0:32:27 > 0:32:30- They're called - the Churchill Barriers.

0:32:30 > 0:32:35- I'm going to dive down to see - one of the original scuppered ships.

0:32:42 > 0:32:45- Diving is dangerous - at the best of times.

0:32:45 > 0:32:48- When you film a dive, - you need a large crew.

0:32:49 > 0:32:52- The underwater film crew - and a buddy for me.

0:32:52 > 0:32:58- He's a local expert who's used - to diving down to these old wrecks.

0:32:58 > 0:33:00- I think it'll all be worth it.

0:33:26 > 0:33:30- At about 12 metres at most, - it isn't very deep here...

0:33:30 > 0:33:32- ..but it's a very different world.

0:33:33 > 0:33:37- Look at these - - they're ship's railings.

0:33:38 > 0:33:41- You can make out some of the shapes.

0:33:42 > 0:33:47- Look how nature - has taken over the entire ship.

0:33:48 > 0:33:50- It's incredible.

0:33:50 > 0:33:52- It looks like a natural reef.

0:33:59 > 0:34:05- The wildlife that lives in, on - and around the ships is incredible.

0:34:05 > 0:34:08- There are all kinds of crabs.

0:34:08 > 0:34:12- This is a spider crab - - no bigger than a finger nail.

0:34:13 > 0:34:15- Here's a hermit crab.

0:34:15 > 0:34:20- It has its own shell and lives in - another shell deep inside this ship.

0:34:20 > 0:34:22- It's playing safe.

0:34:22 > 0:34:25- It lives on the remains - of dead creatures.

0:34:26 > 0:34:30- The circle of life is even reflected - in the names of these creatures.

0:34:35 > 0:34:37- Look at this.

0:34:38 > 0:34:40- It's so beautiful.

0:34:40 > 0:34:44- It's soft coral - called dead man's fingers.

0:34:46 > 0:34:49- It's a colony of creatures - living together.

0:34:49 > 0:34:54- They anchor themselves - to the sunken iron ship.

0:34:55 > 0:35:00- They feed on the nutrition - you can see around me in the water.

0:35:01 > 0:35:04- It's the perfect place for them.

0:35:04 > 0:35:07- Other colourful creatures - also flourish here...

0:35:08 > 0:35:11- ..thanks to the plentiful supply - of food.

0:35:11 > 0:35:15- They filter the food in the water - while clinging to the ships.

0:35:15 > 0:35:18- Anemones and sea squirts.

0:35:23 > 0:35:26- There are also fish - and more mobile creatures here.

0:35:27 > 0:35:28- This is a flounder.

0:35:28 > 0:35:31- When it stays still, - it's perfectly camouflaged...

0:35:32 > 0:35:34- ..against the seabed.

0:35:34 > 0:35:38- Incredibly, as it grows older, - one of its eyes moves...

0:35:38 > 0:35:43- ..from one side of its head to join - the other eye on the other side.

0:35:43 > 0:35:45- It's a real Picasso fish!

0:35:45 > 0:35:48- This allows it to blend - into the background...

0:35:48 > 0:35:51- ..and spot its prey - at the same time.

0:35:55 > 0:36:01- They used scuppered ships to block - the four entrances to Scapa Flow.

0:36:02 > 0:36:08- Today, they've built a dam - out of huge concrete blocks.

0:36:09 > 0:36:14- These blocks are home - to all kinds of seaweed.

0:36:15 > 0:36:21- The seaweed sustains sea snails, - sea slugs, starfish and so on.

0:36:22 > 0:36:24- All kinds of creatures.

0:36:24 > 0:36:26- It's teeming with wildlife.

0:36:36 > 0:36:37- With a bit of luck...

0:36:38 > 0:36:42- ..I hope to see - another favourite animal of mine.

0:36:42 > 0:36:44- As well as other wildlife...

0:36:45 > 0:36:48- ..I search for seals - on the Orkney Islands.

0:36:52 > 0:36:52- .

0:36:55 > 0:36:55- Subtitles

0:36:55 > 0:36:57- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:37:02 > 0:37:05- One thing is true of all islands.

0:37:05 > 0:37:09- If wildlife needs to visit land - from time to time...

0:37:10 > 0:37:12- ..there are only a few - suitable places to do so.

0:37:13 > 0:37:18- A dozen or more seals have been seen - on the remote Kirk Geo beach.

0:37:24 > 0:37:26- These are common seals.

0:37:29 > 0:37:33- When you travel along western - and northern coasts...

0:37:33 > 0:37:35- ..you usually see grey seals.

0:37:36 > 0:37:39- You can spot some - along the Welsh coast.

0:37:39 > 0:37:43- In the north-west of Scotland, - and on the Orkney Islands...

0:37:44 > 0:37:47- ..common and grey seals - can be seen together.

0:37:48 > 0:37:53- Common seals are prettier. - They have dog-like faces.

0:37:53 > 0:37:57- The grey seal - has a large Roman nose.

0:37:57 > 0:37:59- These are resting.

0:37:59 > 0:38:02- There's one scratching its skin.

0:38:02 > 0:38:04- They've been fishing.

0:38:04 > 0:38:07- They're resting - and keeping warm on the rocks.

0:38:08 > 0:38:11- They'll return to the water - to fish later.

0:38:11 > 0:38:14- On land, they're awkward lumps...

0:38:14 > 0:38:18- ..but when they're underwater, - they're in their element.

0:38:24 > 0:38:28- Seeing them like this - explains the old Orkney legend...

0:38:29 > 0:38:35- ..that at certain times of the year, - common seals shed their fur coats...

0:38:35 > 0:38:39- ..and turn into little people, - or selkies.

0:38:39 > 0:38:43- There is something almost human - about their eyes.

0:38:55 > 0:38:59- I came to Kirk Geo to see the seals, - but at the top of the beach...

0:38:59 > 0:39:04- ..I notice something very rare, - even for the Orkney Islands.

0:39:04 > 0:39:08- The oyster plant.

0:39:08 > 0:39:12- As the name suggests, the leaves - supposedly taste of oysters.

0:39:13 > 0:39:17- It's an Arctic plant, found mainly - in Norway and Iceland...

0:39:17 > 0:39:23- ..but one was spotted growing - on Abergele beach in the 1980s.

0:39:23 > 0:39:25- It's such a pretty plant.

0:39:28 > 0:39:30- From Kirk Geo beach...

0:39:31 > 0:39:34- ..I head for the rougher landscape - of Yesnaby Head.

0:39:35 > 0:39:38- In the distance - is the Old Man of Hoy...

0:39:38 > 0:39:41- ..a sea stack - towering above the waves.

0:39:44 > 0:39:49- There are grass of Parnassus - flowers everywhere, surprisingly.

0:39:49 > 0:39:54- It's a pretty flower, rare in Wales, - but found in abundance here.

0:39:54 > 0:39:57- However, another flower - also grows here.

0:39:58 > 0:40:02- It only grows in a few places - in the north of Scotland.

0:40:04 > 0:40:06- Here's another - grass of Parnassus...

0:40:07 > 0:40:10- ..but my main reason - for visiting this area...

0:40:10 > 0:40:12- ..was to show you this flower.

0:40:13 > 0:40:15- The Scottish primrose.

0:40:15 > 0:40:17- This is a very rare flower.

0:40:17 > 0:40:21- It is only found - on Scotland's north coast...

0:40:21 > 0:40:24- ..and here on the Orkney Islands.

0:40:24 > 0:40:30- It grows best on land that's used - for grazing and hasn't been treated.

0:40:30 > 0:40:32- That's why it flourishes here.

0:40:32 > 0:40:37- There are so many of them, - you must be careful where you tread.

0:40:37 > 0:40:39- What a pretty flower.

0:40:42 > 0:40:44- Yes, it's small, - but it's very tough.

0:40:45 > 0:40:49- It grows in the harsh, cold winds - of the Atlantic...

0:40:49 > 0:40:55- ..but it's disappearing in areas - where the land is being improved.

0:41:09 > 0:41:15- Much of the main island has been - farmed intensively for decades.

0:41:15 > 0:41:19- However, there are areas - where I feel right at home.

0:41:19 > 0:41:24- The wild cliffs on the coast - or up on Birsay Moors...

0:41:24 > 0:41:27- ..an RSPB reserve - in the north of Mainland.

0:41:28 > 0:41:32- I'm welcomed by a curlew overhead.

0:41:38 > 0:41:43- The air is heavy with a scent that - reminds me of the Berwyn Mountains.

0:41:43 > 0:41:46- The sweet aroma of meadowsweet.

0:41:53 > 0:41:58- I expected to see this up here, - although not on meadowsweet.

0:41:59 > 0:42:02- The caterpillar - of the emperor moth.

0:42:03 > 0:42:08- It usually feeds on heather - and bilberry leaves.

0:42:09 > 0:42:12- I don't think it's feeding - on this meadowsweet.

0:42:12 > 0:42:14- I think it has lost its way.

0:42:14 > 0:42:19- It has a lovely light green colour - with yellow and black spots.

0:42:19 > 0:42:21- Very pretty.

0:42:26 > 0:42:30- There's a special satisfaction - in seeing familiar things...

0:42:30 > 0:42:32- ..in unfamiliar surroundings.

0:42:33 > 0:42:35- But here on Birsay Moors...

0:42:36 > 0:42:39- ..you'll see sights - that are very unfamiliar to us.

0:42:44 > 0:42:49- We're far north now and can see - a great skua, or bonxie.

0:42:49 > 0:42:51- Bonxie is a local word.

0:42:51 > 0:42:56- Another bird you're likely to see - is the Arctic skua.

0:42:56 > 0:42:59- You wouldn't find these birds - on Welsh moors.

0:43:01 > 0:43:07- In fact, the Arctic skua may become - a rare sight in the near future.

0:43:12 > 0:43:16- Their numbers have fallen - dramatically recently.

0:43:16 > 0:43:20- They have been placed on a list - of threatened species.

0:43:21 > 0:43:26- Another bird found on these moors - is on that list in Wales.

0:43:30 > 0:43:35- One of the main reasons - for visiting the Orkney Islands...

0:43:35 > 0:43:39- ..was to see the hen harrier, - one of my favourite birds.

0:43:39 > 0:43:41- They're here in large numbers.

0:43:41 > 0:43:43- There were around 100 pairs...

0:43:43 > 0:43:46- ..and there are still - around 90 pairs here now.

0:43:46 > 0:43:50- In a valley like this, - there are four or five pairs.

0:43:50 > 0:43:54- There's a good chance - I'll see some of them hunting today.

0:44:20 > 0:44:22- Here's a male flying in.

0:44:22 > 0:44:25- The male flies low across the moors.

0:44:25 > 0:44:30- It's one of the prettiest birds - you'll see in the highlands.

0:44:30 > 0:44:32- It's light grey.

0:44:32 > 0:44:35- I think the nest... - I'll keep an eye on it.

0:44:36 > 0:44:38- Yes, it's carrying prey.

0:44:39 > 0:44:41- Is it? Maybe not.

0:44:41 > 0:44:45- The tips of its wings are black.

0:44:45 > 0:44:48- It's like a ghost - flying across the moors.

0:44:49 > 0:44:51- Here it goes again.

0:44:51 > 0:44:56- Where's it going? Oh, it's being - followed by two chicks.

0:44:56 > 0:44:59- There are two chicks following it.

0:44:59 > 0:45:01- They have obviously fledged.

0:45:02 > 0:45:06- It flew over the nest - and the chicks followed it.

0:45:06 > 0:45:08- I lost it for a second.

0:45:08 > 0:45:11- I don't know if it dropped - some prey.

0:45:13 > 0:45:18- The two chicks are flying around - and the male has flown away.

0:45:19 > 0:45:20- It's still hunting.

0:45:20 > 0:45:23- It was just passing over. - That was nice!

0:45:23 > 0:45:25- I enjoyed that.

0:45:56 > 0:46:00- Isn't this a wonderful place - in this warm sunshine?

0:46:00 > 0:46:04- I love Scotland - and I've enjoyed my visit here.

0:46:04 > 0:46:08- I'm glad I had the opportunity - to visit the Orkney Islands.

0:46:09 > 0:46:11- The next step is a big step.

0:46:11 > 0:46:15- Hundreds of miles across the sea - to the Faroe Islands.

0:46:15 > 0:46:19- There, I'm certain, - the adventure will continue.

0:46:25 > 0:46:28- On the last leg of the journey...

0:46:28 > 0:46:33- ..I visit the Faroe Islands - for the first time.

0:46:33 > 0:46:38- It's great to see mountains - rising straight up out of the sea.

0:46:40 > 0:46:45- I also visit Iceland to see some - of the world's largest mammals.

0:46:45 > 0:46:48- There's one over here.

0:46:48 > 0:46:52- I'll roam the island's barren - and beautiful landscape.

0:46:55 > 0:46:57- I'll dive into the depths...

0:46:59 > 0:47:01- ..explore a cave formed by lava...

0:47:03 > 0:47:06- It looks like - the entrance to Hell!

0:47:06 > 0:47:11- ..and cross an invisible boundary - into the Arctic Circle.

0:47:11 > 0:47:16- It's a remote, inhospitable place - and it's hard to live here.

0:47:43 > 0:47:45- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:47:45 > 0:47:45- .