Ynysoedd Ffaroe, Gwlad yr Ia

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0:00:06 > 0:00:08- The Atlantic Ocean.

0:00:09 > 0:00:12- An ocean that provides warmth - and water.

0:00:14 > 0:00:17- It influences the climate - and wildlife...

0:00:18 > 0:00:20- ..of every country - in Western Europe.

0:00:21 > 0:00:24- The warmth and moisture - of the Atlantic...

0:00:24 > 0:00:29- ..promotes the fertile growth - we see all across Western Europe.

0:00:29 > 0:00:34- These rich habitats sustain - a wide variety of incredible life.

0:00:38 > 0:00:41- There are deer everywhere.

0:00:42 > 0:00:45- The sea itself - is a treasure trove of nature.

0:00:45 > 0:00:48- These are beautiful - - jewel anemones.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52- I'm on an exciting journey - along Europe's west coast...

0:00:53 > 0:00:56- ..discovering the nature of the - countries that face the Atlantic.

0:00:57 > 0:01:02- The adventure started in the south, - around the Azores.

0:01:04 > 0:01:08- I've seen fantastic wildlife - and some incredible sights...

0:01:08 > 0:01:11- ..in Portugal, Spain...

0:01:11 > 0:01:12- A lynx, lads.

0:01:13 > 0:01:14- ..France...

0:01:15 > 0:01:18- Here's a strange bird - - a black-winged stilt.

0:01:19 > 0:01:23- In the Channel Islands, - I saw a green lizard.

0:01:23 > 0:01:27- ..Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly...

0:01:27 > 0:01:29- ..Ireland and Scotland.

0:01:33 > 0:01:35- I'm on the final leg of my journey.

0:01:37 > 0:01:39- I'm on my way - to the Faroe Islands...

0:01:39 > 0:01:41- ..and Iceland.

0:01:41 > 0:01:42- There's one there.

0:01:52 > 0:01:56- I've reached the Faroe Islands, - about 160 miles north of Scotland.

0:02:00 > 0:02:03- The islands are located - in the North Atlantic...

0:02:03 > 0:02:06- ..about halfway - between Norway and Iceland.

0:02:09 > 0:02:12- The Faroe Islands - have a special character.

0:02:12 > 0:02:15- You feel as if - you're far from everywhere.

0:02:23 > 0:02:26- The Faroe Islands' landscape...

0:02:26 > 0:02:30- ..is as dramatic as any I've seen - on my journey so far.

0:02:30 > 0:02:33- It's odd to find - a group of islands...

0:02:33 > 0:02:36- ..in the middle - of the North Atlantic.

0:02:37 > 0:02:40- You don't expect to see - anything like this...

0:02:41 > 0:02:43- ..halfway between Scotland - and Iceland.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47- Look at these huge mountains - rising up from the sea.

0:02:47 > 0:02:51- There are 18 islands in all.

0:02:51 > 0:02:53- If you pushed them together...

0:02:53 > 0:02:57- ..they'd cover an area - not much bigger than Anglesey.

0:02:57 > 0:03:01- Some of the highest mountains - reach a height of 880 metres.

0:03:01 > 0:03:03- That's the same height as Pen y Fan.

0:03:05 > 0:03:10- Very few people live here - - some 48,000 across all the islands.

0:03:11 > 0:03:15- The 70,000 unique - Faroe Island sheep...

0:03:15 > 0:03:18- ..enjoy the hard life here.

0:03:21 > 0:03:26- The islands' location in the middle - of the North Atlantic...

0:03:27 > 0:03:30- ..is perfect for seabirds - that need to nest.

0:03:33 > 0:03:35- One of them is the Arctic tern.

0:03:46 > 0:03:50- Another seabird - has chosen the Faroe Islands...

0:03:51 > 0:03:54- ..as its most important - nesting spot.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57- They hide under the rocks by day...

0:03:57 > 0:04:00- ..since they're scared - of larger birds.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04- We know they're there - because they're so noisy.

0:04:05 > 0:04:09- Jens-Kjeld Jenson - is the islands' Mr Nature.

0:04:09 > 0:04:13- He has studied these small birds - for many years.

0:04:16 > 0:04:18- He's building a trap - to catch the birds.

0:04:19 > 0:04:22- Which way are we going to put it - - across like this?

0:04:24 > 0:04:27- I'll let you put them in.

0:04:28 > 0:04:33- We're erecting these nets - to catch the storm petrels.

0:04:33 > 0:04:37- There are hundreds of thousands - of them here.

0:04:37 > 0:04:40- This is the world's largest colony.

0:04:40 > 0:04:42- They can be found under these rocks.

0:04:43 > 0:04:46- You won't see them now because - they come out when it's dark.

0:04:50 > 0:04:54- Storm petrels avoid daylight - because gulls eat them.

0:04:57 > 0:05:01- They venture out in darkness, - walking along the ground...

0:05:02 > 0:05:04- ..before taking to the skies.

0:05:07 > 0:05:10- And now we sit and wait, is it?

0:05:10 > 0:05:15- Only sit and wait. In 35 minutes, - we will see the first.

0:05:16 > 0:05:20- Right. I'll keep you to that. - Exactly 35 minutes.

0:05:30 > 0:05:33- Fair play, - Jens was pretty close to the mark.

0:05:34 > 0:05:38- As the light faded, - the birds appeared.

0:05:40 > 0:05:43- They flew without any gulls - to bother them...

0:05:43 > 0:05:46- ..safe from the attention - of any predators.

0:05:47 > 0:05:49- Apart from Jens's net!

0:05:49 > 0:05:54- This is only - a temporary inconvenience...

0:05:54 > 0:05:59- ..as Jens tries to gather - some information about the petrels.

0:06:01 > 0:06:03- Wow.

0:06:03 > 0:06:05- It's already been ringed, this one.

0:06:06 > 0:06:08- It's only when you see it - in the hand...

0:06:08 > 0:06:11- ..you realize - what a small bird it is.

0:06:11 > 0:06:14- These nest in Wales - and the rest of Europe.

0:06:14 > 0:06:18- I've previously heard them - in Ireland...

0:06:19 > 0:06:21- ..hiding in a wall - on the Skellig Islands.

0:06:22 > 0:06:24- They nest much later here...

0:06:24 > 0:06:28- ..because it's light - almost around the clock...

0:06:28 > 0:06:31- ..on the Faroe Islands - during May and June.

0:06:33 > 0:06:35- These have a unique smell too.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39- Yeah, yeah.

0:06:40 > 0:06:41- They can spit on you...

0:06:42 > 0:06:46- ..and you can have their smell - for the next year on your clothes.

0:06:46 > 0:06:48- It's a very special smell.

0:06:48 > 0:06:49- Yeah, it is.

0:06:52 > 0:06:54- They have a unique smell.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56- They can spit at you too.

0:06:56 > 0:07:01- I associate it with my visits - to Skomer years ago...

0:07:01 > 0:07:05- ..when I used to look after - these birds.

0:07:06 > 0:07:09- This smell brings back - the memories every time.

0:07:09 > 0:07:11- It's hard to tell what it is.

0:07:12 > 0:07:16- It's like the smell of old fish - but not in a bad way.

0:07:16 > 0:07:18- It's a nice smell.

0:07:18 > 0:07:21- It's quite a nice smell, isn't it?

0:07:21 > 0:07:23- You buy my jacket?!

0:07:23 > 0:07:25- It's all over you.

0:07:27 > 0:07:30- It's an old jacket, - but you can buy this.

0:07:30 > 0:07:32- To take the smell home with me.

0:07:32 > 0:07:36- That's very kind of you - but no, thank you.

0:07:38 > 0:07:42- I say farewell to this little bird - and Jens's coat...

0:07:42 > 0:07:46- ..and leave the Faroe Islands - bound for Iceland.

0:07:48 > 0:07:51- This is the northernmost country - on my journey.

0:07:51 > 0:07:53- Just like the Azores...

0:07:53 > 0:07:57- ..the islands I visited - at the start of my journey...

0:07:57 > 0:08:01- ..Iceland is located - in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

0:08:01 > 0:08:05- Both places are influenced - by volcanic activity.

0:08:07 > 0:08:12- Iceland is covered by the scars - and dust of volcanoes.

0:08:12 > 0:08:16- A great deal of it has come - as a result of recent events.

0:08:21 > 0:08:25- The land is volatile - because of the island's location.

0:08:28 > 0:08:32- Iceland and the Azores are part - of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge...

0:08:33 > 0:08:37- ..a chain of mountains running - south to north through the ocean...

0:08:38 > 0:08:41- ..near a large fissure - in the earth's crust.

0:08:41 > 0:08:47- Most of the ridge is under the sea, - but some parts reach the surface...

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- ..creating the islands - of the Azores and Iceland.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54- When I visited the Azores...

0:08:54 > 0:08:58- ..I swam with manta rays - above one of the ridge's mountains.

0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Oh, wow! Look at these.

0:09:02 > 0:09:06- The rays gathered above - the underwater slopes to feed.

0:09:08 > 0:09:11- On the island of Pico - in the Azores...

0:09:11 > 0:09:14- ..Mount Pico volcano was still hot.

0:09:21 > 0:09:25- In Iceland, the effects - of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge...

0:09:25 > 0:09:27- ..are far more dramatic.

0:09:31 > 0:09:34- The island sits across the ridge...

0:09:34 > 0:09:38- ..where the continents of Europe - and America shift and collide.

0:09:42 > 0:09:45- This is what produces - all the energy on the island.

0:09:53 > 0:09:57- Steam is created - by volcanic activity underground.

0:09:57 > 0:09:59- It's released almost everywhere.

0:09:59 > 0:10:02- There are more hot geysers - in Iceland...

0:10:02 > 0:10:06- ..than in any other country - in the world.

0:10:09 > 0:10:14- Volcanic activity isn't the only - factor shaping the landscape.

0:10:14 > 0:10:18- The cold conditions - also have an effect...

0:10:19 > 0:10:23- ..especially when the ice melts - during the summer.

0:10:23 > 0:10:27- The meltwater - creates spectacular waterfalls.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31- This waterfall is called Godafoss.

0:10:31 > 0:10:34- There's such a force of water - flowing over it...

0:10:35 > 0:10:38- ..you can feel the earth - shaking under your feet.

0:10:38 > 0:10:42- Iceland's nature is very energetic.

0:10:42 > 0:10:45- Not only the waterfalls...

0:10:45 > 0:10:50- ..but the geysers, the hot steam - emerging from the ground...

0:10:50 > 0:10:54- ..and the volcanoes, - which are still active today.

0:10:54 > 0:10:59- Visiting a place like this - and standing close to it...

0:10:59 > 0:11:03- ..reminds you - how insignificant you are...

0:11:04 > 0:11:06- ..and how powerful nature can be.

0:11:12 > 0:11:14- There's no better example of this...

0:11:15 > 0:11:18- ..than the effect of volcanoes - on the landscape.

0:11:18 > 0:11:22- There's so much volcanic activity - on the island.

0:11:23 > 0:11:26- Lava rocks and dust - are scattered everywhere.

0:11:28 > 0:11:31- Look at this place - - it's like an alien planet.

0:11:32 > 0:11:36- Much of the mainland - looks like this...

0:11:37 > 0:11:39- ..stripped of any vegetation.

0:11:39 > 0:11:43- Here or there, - you'll see some plants and mosses.

0:11:45 > 0:11:50- As they wilt and die, they slowly - create another layer of soil.

0:11:51 > 0:11:54- It can take decades, - even centuries...

0:11:54 > 0:11:58- ..but slowly, - the growth will return.

0:12:04 > 0:12:10- Later, I'll discover more - about Iceland's hot and cold nature.

0:12:10 > 0:12:13- I'll see subterranean - ice sculptures.

0:12:13 > 0:12:18- It's the middle of summer now, - but this ice has survived.

0:12:19 > 0:12:22- I'll also visit caves - created by volcanic activity.

0:12:23 > 0:12:24- It looks like the mouth of Hell!

0:12:25 > 0:12:27- It's an incredible thing.

0:12:27 > 0:12:27- .

0:12:31 > 0:12:31- Subtitles

0:12:31 > 0:12:33- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:12:36 > 0:12:40- I'm on the final leg - of my European adventure...

0:12:40 > 0:12:43- ..visiting the countries - that face the Atlantic.

0:12:43 > 0:12:45- I've reached Iceland.

0:12:45 > 0:12:49- I'm heading - for the Reykjanes Peninsula...

0:12:49 > 0:12:52- ..and the Leitahraun lava field.

0:12:54 > 0:12:58- I'm exploring a cave - formed by subterranean lava flow...

0:12:59 > 0:13:04- ..with a group of cavers - and local guide Kari Bjornsson.

0:13:05 > 0:13:08- Like the rest of Iceland, - the landscape is very open...

0:13:09 > 0:13:14- ..with ancient lava rocks - covered in moss and small plants.

0:13:14 > 0:13:19- It's the perfect habitat for upland - birds like the golden plover.

0:13:19 > 0:13:23- But I'm not here to watch birds - - I'm heading underground.

0:13:23 > 0:13:29- Nothing above ground suggests - anything remarkable underground.

0:13:30 > 0:13:33- Only a dark opening - into the belly of the earth.

0:13:37 > 0:13:39- This is a special cave.

0:13:43 > 0:13:47- The stalactites and stalagmites - are created from ice, not stone.

0:13:50 > 0:13:54- Look at the incredible - ice sculptures.

0:13:54 > 0:13:56- Dear me!

0:13:56 > 0:14:00- It looks as if someone - has been here to mould it all...

0:14:00 > 0:14:02- ..but it's melting slowly.

0:14:02 > 0:14:07- It's incredible to think - that it's the middle of summer.

0:14:07 > 0:14:13- But the temperature down here - is between two and four degrees...

0:14:13 > 0:14:15- ..so the ice can survive.

0:14:26 > 0:14:31- Caves are usually created when water - erodes soft rocks like limestone.

0:14:32 > 0:14:35- This magnificent cave - was formed by hot lava.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40- Perfect tunnels stretch underground.

0:14:41 > 0:14:45- You could swear - that they'd been dug out by man...

0:14:46 > 0:14:48- ..but they were shaped by lava.

0:14:54 > 0:14:57- I'm used to going into caves...

0:14:57 > 0:15:02- ..and seeing stalactites - hanging down from the ceiling.

0:15:02 > 0:15:06- I thought these were the same, - but they're not.

0:15:06 > 0:15:08- This is rock that's softened.

0:15:08 > 0:15:12- This was all lava - - there was no solid rock at all.

0:15:12 > 0:15:18- The lumps hanging from the ceiling - were lava dripping down.

0:15:18 > 0:15:20- As it became cold, it hardened.

0:15:21 > 0:15:26- By now, what was once like treacle - is now hard rock.

0:15:27 > 0:15:30- If I'd stood here 5,000 years ago...

0:15:31 > 0:15:33- ..I would have been badly burnt...

0:15:33 > 0:15:36- ..but I would also have sunk - into the ground.

0:15:41 > 0:15:46- Kari's father discovered the cave - about seven years ago.

0:15:47 > 0:15:52- It's one of world's most incredible - subterranean discoveries.

0:15:53 > 0:15:58- The explosion that formed - the tunnels must have been huge.

0:15:59 > 0:16:02- We're now coming - to the lava flow proper.

0:16:03 > 0:16:05- You can see it now, can't you?

0:16:05 > 0:16:07- This was the height - of the lava river.

0:16:08 > 0:16:09- That's what this bit here is?

0:16:10 > 0:16:12- It's like a tidemark, almost.

0:16:12 > 0:16:16- It would have flowed at this level - right across here.

0:16:17 > 0:16:20- And this would have been lava, - spitting and dripping.

0:16:24 > 0:16:27- It's like the mouth of Hell. - It's an incredible thing.

0:16:28 > 0:16:31- You can see the lava - underneath our feet.

0:16:31 > 0:16:33- A lava tunnel, a real lava tunnel.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38- The lava flow stops suddenly - in a dangerous pit...

0:16:39 > 0:16:42- ..that drops down around 17 metres.

0:16:44 > 0:16:45- It ends here?

0:16:46 > 0:16:47- The deepest lava pit in the world.

0:16:47 > 0:16:51- The deepest lava pit in the world.- - Wow! That's incredible.

0:16:51 > 0:16:55- Do we know why - it has dropped down like that?

0:16:55 > 0:16:59- A lot of cave experts have been here - and no-one has a clue.

0:17:00 > 0:17:02- What an amazing end to it.

0:17:02 > 0:17:06- It looks like it's been sprayed - in chocolate here.

0:17:10 > 0:17:14- There are incredible volcanic scenes - under the sea too.

0:17:15 > 0:17:21- The best example can be found - in Eyjafjordur in the north.

0:17:48 > 0:17:53- The water here is heated - by an undersea volcanic vent.

0:17:57 > 0:17:59- Well, look at this.

0:18:01 > 0:18:02- This is a chimney.

0:18:03 > 0:18:08- It pumps boiling water out - from the bowels of the earth.

0:18:10 > 0:18:14- It cools down - when it combines with seawater.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17- It's incredible.

0:18:17 > 0:18:21- Chimneys like this - can be found across the country.

0:18:21 > 0:18:23- On land, they form geysers.

0:18:23 > 0:18:26- The water is pumped - out of the ground...

0:18:27 > 0:18:29- ..high into the sky.

0:18:31 > 0:18:37- It shows that volcanoes - still control Iceland.

0:18:40 > 0:18:44- The chimney has been releasing - boiling water for 11,000 years.

0:18:45 > 0:18:47- This is only the upper part...

0:18:48 > 0:18:50- ..about 15 metres under the waves.

0:18:50 > 0:18:55- It stretches down about 55 metres - to the seabed.

0:18:58 > 0:19:03- It's fresh water, not seawater, - and it's packed with minerals.

0:19:03 > 0:19:06- When the minerals mix - with seawater...

0:19:06 > 0:19:10- ..they solidify - and form limestone chimneys.

0:19:10 > 0:19:13- The combination of warm water - and minerals...

0:19:14 > 0:19:16- ..creates a rich habitat - for wildlife.

0:19:47 > 0:19:49- It's incredible to see - so much wildlife...

0:19:50 > 0:19:54- ..congregating around this chimney.

0:19:54 > 0:20:00- All kinds of seaweed, starfish - and fish of all shapes and sizes.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03- It's all as a result - of the warm water.

0:20:03 > 0:20:06- It attracts all kinds of bacteria - and plankton...

0:20:06 > 0:20:10- ..which provide nourishment - for all the creatures.

0:20:26 > 0:20:28- Here's a fierce-looking fish.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31- Can you see those large teeth - in its mouth?

0:20:32 > 0:20:36- It's a wolf fish.

0:20:38 > 0:20:41- It's actually quite harmless.

0:20:41 > 0:20:46- Those large teeth are used to crush - shells, crabs and similar creatures.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49- Thankfully, they don't bite people.

0:20:50 > 0:20:53- Iceland's different landscapes...

0:20:53 > 0:20:56- ..have to withstand - the harsh elements of nature...

0:20:56 > 0:20:58- ..both in the sea and on land.

0:20:59 > 0:21:04- Strong winds sweep across - the open landscapes.

0:21:08 > 0:21:12- During the summer, when the ice - and snow have retreated...

0:21:12 > 0:21:15- ..any loose soil is blown away.

0:21:25 > 0:21:30- The landscape has been scarred - by earthquakes.

0:21:30 > 0:21:35- It's difficult for anything - to survive in such harsh conditions.

0:21:37 > 0:21:41- The first thing that struck me - when I reached Iceland...

0:21:41 > 0:21:46- ..was the lack of trees, - bushes and hedges.

0:21:46 > 0:21:51- There is growth here, - but only very close to the ground.

0:21:51 > 0:21:54- You have to get down - to get close to it.

0:21:54 > 0:21:56- I've seen some dwarf willow.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00- They don't grow upwards - - they creep along the ground.

0:22:02 > 0:22:06- There's very little soil here - and there's a very sharp wind.

0:22:07 > 0:22:09- It can freeze leaves in an instant.

0:22:09 > 0:22:12- There are familiar plants too.

0:22:12 > 0:22:15- I've seen them - in the uplands of Cwm Idwal.

0:22:15 > 0:22:17- This is mountain avens.

0:22:18 > 0:22:19- I've seen roseroot.

0:22:20 > 0:22:24- They're very rare in Wales, - but they flourish here.

0:22:24 > 0:22:28- This is very similar to the Arctic.

0:22:28 > 0:22:34- The soil is thin, it freezes here - from October until April.

0:22:34 > 0:22:38- When summer comes, it's very short.

0:22:38 > 0:22:41- All these flowers - appear at the same time.

0:22:41 > 0:22:44- When they do appear, - they're beautiful.

0:22:49 > 0:22:53- The cold weather isn't far away, - even in high summer.

0:23:00 > 0:23:05- Snow and ice cover the mountains - all year round.

0:23:06 > 0:23:11- It's July, and this is one - of Iceland's largest glaciers.

0:23:13 > 0:23:16- It's melting in the relatively - mild summer temperatures...

0:23:16 > 0:23:20- ..but the word mild - is rather misleading.

0:23:20 > 0:23:23- The temperature - is only just above freezing.

0:23:23 > 0:23:27- The glaciers in the mountains...

0:23:27 > 0:23:31- ..are the reason why there's - so much water in this country.

0:23:31 > 0:23:34- They melt during the summer...

0:23:34 > 0:23:37- ..and the water flows - into streams and rivers...

0:23:37 > 0:23:40- ..creating magnificent waterfalls.

0:23:40 > 0:23:44- This is a remote place, - a frozen desert.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47- It's hard to live up here.

0:23:49 > 0:23:55- As they melt, the glaciers release - thousands of gallons of water.

0:23:56 > 0:23:59- The water flows down - to the lowlands.

0:24:00 > 0:24:03- That's where wildlife flourishes.

0:24:07 > 0:24:11- I'm watching a female - harlequin duck...

0:24:11 > 0:24:15- ..fishing right in the middle - of the white water.

0:24:15 > 0:24:19- How she can swim in that water, - I'll never know.

0:24:21 > 0:24:23- She's diving under the water...

0:24:23 > 0:24:27- ..to feed on the larvae - of these black flies.

0:24:27 > 0:24:30- They're flying around my head.

0:24:31 > 0:24:36- The larvae are on the rocks, - where most of the oxygen is found.

0:24:36 > 0:24:39- That's where the water - flows strongest.

0:24:40 > 0:24:43- The ducks dive - and feed on the larvae.

0:24:44 > 0:24:47- There are so many larvae - that it's like grass.

0:24:47 > 0:24:51- Then they come back to the surface. - I've just swallowed some!

0:24:54 > 0:24:58- The female is pretty, - but the male is majestic.

0:25:00 > 0:25:04- Since the river freezes quickly - in the autumn and flies disappear...

0:25:05 > 0:25:08- ..the male will leave soon - to live by the sea.

0:25:08 > 0:25:12- The female will follow him - after she has raised the chicks.

0:25:14 > 0:25:17- Since there are so many flies - in the rivers and lakes...

0:25:18 > 0:25:22- ..during the summer, - thousands of water birds migrate...

0:25:22 > 0:25:24- ..to feed and nest in Iceland.

0:25:24 > 0:25:27- Many come from Europe.

0:25:28 > 0:25:31- Others, such as - the Barrow's goldeneye, stay here.

0:25:32 > 0:25:37- They spend the winter in stretches - of water that don't freeze...

0:25:37 > 0:25:39- ..near the hot springs.

0:25:42 > 0:25:45- In Iceland, whooper swans nest.

0:25:45 > 0:25:48- They can be seen in Wales - during the winter...

0:25:48 > 0:25:53- ..on the Glaslyn near Porthmadog, - on the Tywi near Dryslwyn...

0:25:53 > 0:25:55- ..and on the Severn near Newtown.

0:25:55 > 0:26:00- These are different - to the orange-beaked mute swans...

0:26:00 > 0:26:03- ..seen all year round in Wales.

0:26:03 > 0:26:07- When these chicks are old enough, - at the end of September...

0:26:08 > 0:26:12- ..the whole family will fly - all the way to Southern Europe.

0:26:12 > 0:26:15- This family may well end up - in Wales.

0:26:29 > 0:26:33- Later on my journey, - I catch up with some whales.

0:26:34 > 0:26:36- There's one over here.

0:26:39 > 0:26:44- I'll also reach the end of the road - and the end of my adventure.

0:26:47 > 0:26:48- .

0:26:51 > 0:26:51- Subtitles

0:26:51 > 0:26:53- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:26:56 > 0:26:58- I'm in the south-west of Iceland.

0:26:58 > 0:27:02- I'm preparing for a dive - with the filming crew...

0:27:02 > 0:27:05- ..in one of the world's - most remarkable pools.

0:27:05 > 0:27:08- The pool is in a rift - formed in the ground...

0:27:08 > 0:27:10- ..by Iceland's volcanic nature.

0:27:16 > 0:27:21- The Silfra rift is located - in the Thingvellir National Park...

0:27:21 > 0:27:25- ..about 50 miles east - of the capital, Reykjavik.

0:27:34 > 0:27:37- The rift is filled with fresh water.

0:27:37 > 0:27:42- It leads to Lake Thingvellir, - one of Iceland's largest lakes.

0:27:44 > 0:27:47- The water is as cold - as any I've swum in.

0:27:47 > 0:27:48- It's also the clearest.

0:27:50 > 0:27:52- As clear as crystal.

0:28:16 > 0:28:19- The water is incredibly clear.

0:28:20 > 0:28:26- The source of this water - is a glacier 50km from here.

0:28:29 > 0:28:33- It works its way through the rock - and joins the lake...

0:28:33 > 0:28:36- ..through a series of streams.

0:28:36 > 0:28:38- That's why...

0:28:38 > 0:28:42- Well, I've never dived - in such clear water before.

0:28:42 > 0:28:44- It's incredible.

0:28:44 > 0:28:46- I can see for 100m ahead.

0:28:46 > 0:28:48- In Wales, if I dive...

0:28:48 > 0:28:53- ..I'm lucky if I can see - five metres ahead.

0:28:55 > 0:29:00- To be honest, you can see as far - as the eye can see!

0:29:15 > 0:29:19- The water has taken almost a century - to reach here.

0:29:19 > 0:29:22- It has travelled - through volcanic rock.

0:29:22 > 0:29:25- Any mud or stones - have been filtered out.

0:29:29 > 0:29:32- It's like swimming through the air.

0:29:35 > 0:29:40- Clear water isn't the only wonder - that makes the Silfra rift special.

0:29:42 > 0:29:45- It's also an interesting - geological location.

0:29:47 > 0:29:50- I'm swimming here - between two continents.

0:29:51 > 0:29:55- On my right is the North American - continental plate.

0:29:56 > 0:29:59- On my left, - is the European continental plate.

0:30:00 > 0:30:04- Both plates are separating slowly.

0:30:04 > 0:30:08- If you want to know - how quickly they're separating...

0:30:08 > 0:30:14- ..if Christopher Columbus - set sail for America today...

0:30:14 > 0:30:18- ..he'd have to travel - three feet further...

0:30:18 > 0:30:21- ..than he did six centuries ago.

0:30:26 > 0:30:29- Silfra is one of the few places - in the world...

0:30:30 > 0:30:35- ..where you can see the boundary - between two continents clearly.

0:30:35 > 0:30:39- Imagine this rift stretching - far into the earth's core.

0:30:39 > 0:30:42- It helps you learn more - about how continents...

0:30:42 > 0:30:46- ..and the movement between them - can cause earthquakes...

0:30:46 > 0:30:50- ..and the volcanic activity - seen in locations like Iceland.

0:31:28 > 0:31:31- I'm now at sea - off the northern coast of Iceland.

0:31:33 > 0:31:36- I'm in Skjalfandi Bay, - 20 miles north of Husavik.

0:31:38 > 0:31:40- I'm searching for whales.

0:32:11 > 0:32:14- We've seen a whale out here.

0:32:14 > 0:32:19- It blew out some air - before diving back down again.

0:32:19 > 0:32:21- I'm not sure what it is.

0:32:21 > 0:32:26- We'll have to wait a few minutes - until it returns to the surface.

0:32:27 > 0:32:31- If you look at the water, you can - see where it was before it dived.

0:32:33 > 0:32:36- Oh, wow. Oh, two.

0:32:36 > 0:32:39- One in front of the other, - over there.

0:32:41 > 0:32:46- When they surface, they stay up - for a while before diving again.

0:32:46 > 0:32:49- Hopefully, we can see one - close to the boat.

0:32:49 > 0:32:51- Can you see it?

0:32:54 > 0:32:56- It's surfaced on the horizon.

0:32:56 > 0:32:59- Hopefully, - we can see one that's closer.

0:32:59 > 0:33:01- Look, look, look, look.

0:33:03 > 0:33:04- Oh, wow.

0:33:06 > 0:33:08- And a little dolphin with it.

0:33:14 > 0:33:15- Here it comes.

0:33:17 > 0:33:18- Oh!

0:33:26 > 0:33:28- There are two whales here...

0:33:29 > 0:33:32- ..the fin whale - and the world's largest whale...

0:33:33 > 0:33:35- ..the blue whale.

0:33:37 > 0:33:39- Here's one.

0:33:41 > 0:33:43- Another blue whale.

0:33:43 > 0:33:47- A blue whale. Goodness me.

0:33:47 > 0:33:50- We think of dinosaurs - as large creatures.

0:33:51 > 0:33:53- The diplodocus, and so on.

0:33:54 > 0:33:56- There it is again.

0:33:56 > 0:34:00- These whales are larger - than all the dinosaurs.

0:34:00 > 0:34:04- Anything that was around - at that time.

0:34:05 > 0:34:07- Blue whales are bigger.

0:34:07 > 0:34:11- There has never been a creature - on the planet as big as these.

0:34:11 > 0:34:15- I'm looking at the largest creature - that has ever lived.

0:34:18 > 0:34:24- They're diving into the deep water - to feed on krill.

0:34:24 > 0:34:27- They eat tonnes of krill, - they have huge mouths.

0:34:28 > 0:34:30- Let me put it like this.

0:34:30 > 0:34:36- The largest land animal - is the African elephant.

0:34:36 > 0:34:42- They eat the weight of one elephant - in krill in a single day.

0:34:42 > 0:34:46- In a single day! - That's how big they are.

0:34:46 > 0:34:49- They dive down, - 100 or 200 metres...

0:34:49 > 0:34:53- ..and return to the surface - with a mouthful of krill.

0:34:55 > 0:34:57- Oh! There's one over there.

0:35:01 > 0:35:03- Look!

0:35:04 > 0:35:05- Wow!

0:35:09 > 0:35:12- I can see this one - swimming under the surface.

0:35:12 > 0:35:14- There it is, there it is.

0:35:14 > 0:35:18- This one is a humpback whale.

0:35:18 > 0:35:20- Watch out - it's coming.

0:35:20 > 0:35:22- Watch the tail.

0:35:24 > 0:35:26- Fantastic.

0:35:40 > 0:35:41- Fantastic.

0:35:42 > 0:35:44- It has dived under the water.

0:35:44 > 0:35:45- Goodness me!

0:35:53 > 0:35:58- Humpback whales are a lot smaller - than blue and fin whales...

0:35:58 > 0:36:01- ..but are still - around 15 metres long.

0:36:05 > 0:36:08- They only feed near Iceland - in summer.

0:36:08 > 0:36:11- For the remainder of the year...

0:36:11 > 0:36:16- ..they migrate to more tropical - waters to give birth to their young.

0:36:16 > 0:36:18- During the summer...

0:36:18 > 0:36:22- ..it moves closer to the Arctic - to find plenty of food.

0:36:22 > 0:36:24- The seas near the poles are ideal.

0:36:39 > 0:36:42- The crew and I - are going to follow the whales...

0:36:42 > 0:36:46- ..and travel to the northernmost - point of my journey...

0:36:46 > 0:36:49- ..an island in the Arctic Circle.

0:36:55 > 0:36:55- .

0:36:59 > 0:36:59- Subtitles

0:36:59 > 0:37:01- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:37:05 > 0:37:10- I'm in Iceland, travelling - to the island of Grimsey...

0:37:10 > 0:37:13- ..the northernmost point - of my journey...

0:37:14 > 0:37:17- ..and the only part of Iceland - inside the Arctic Circle.

0:37:20 > 0:37:25- It's paradise for any ornithologist - in the middle of July.

0:37:26 > 0:37:28- It's the nesting season.

0:37:28 > 0:37:32- During the summer, the island - is home to a million birds.

0:37:35 > 0:37:40- These are Arctic terns, just like - the ones I saw on the Faroe Islands.

0:37:41 > 0:37:45- Grimsey is a small island, - only some two square miles.

0:37:46 > 0:37:50- Most of the land - has been left as rough pasture.

0:37:52 > 0:37:54- There are no predators here.

0:37:55 > 0:37:58- No foxes, dogs, cats or rats.

0:37:58 > 0:38:02- It's a perfect place - for dunlins and golden plovers.

0:38:06 > 0:38:10- These have almost stopped nesting - on the Welsh uplands.

0:38:11 > 0:38:15- There, their eggs and chicks - are eaten by foxes and crows.

0:38:16 > 0:38:18- Here, they flourish.

0:38:22 > 0:38:25- Here's a special northern bird.

0:38:31 > 0:38:35- This little bird singing here - is a snow bunting.

0:38:35 > 0:38:37- It's such a pretty bird.

0:38:38 > 0:38:43- This is a male. - It has black and white feathers.

0:38:43 > 0:38:49- This small bird pushes further north - than any other small bird.

0:38:49 > 0:38:53- It also migrates south - during the winter.

0:38:53 > 0:38:58- The female is here somewhere. - She's far more insignificant.

0:38:58 > 0:39:00- This one's nesting - in the rocks below me.

0:39:01 > 0:39:03- He's marking his territory - by singing.

0:39:04 > 0:39:07- I can hear another male nearby, - over in the distance.

0:39:09 > 0:39:11- It's a lovely sound.

0:39:16 > 0:39:18- It's hard to believe this...

0:39:18 > 0:39:22- ..but in winter, snow buntings - can be spotted on Rhyl beach.

0:39:22 > 0:39:25- It's one of the places - they migrate to.

0:39:25 > 0:39:29- It will have lost - its breeding feathers by then...

0:39:29 > 0:39:32- ..but it's still an impressive bird.

0:39:40 > 0:39:44- Most of the birds on Grimsey - nest on the cliffs above the sea.

0:39:47 > 0:39:52- We see the same species - on the Welsh coast in spring.

0:39:52 > 0:39:54- Puffins.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57- Razorbills.

0:40:01 > 0:40:03- And fulmars.

0:40:07 > 0:40:12- The main difference here is the - huge numbers of birds that nest...

0:40:12 > 0:40:15- ..because of the tranquillity - and abundance of food...

0:40:16 > 0:40:19- ..found in the sea - within the Arctic Circle.

0:40:25 > 0:40:30- Some of the high cliffs - in these northern climes...

0:40:30 > 0:40:33- ..are some of the best - you're ever likely to see.

0:40:34 > 0:40:38- Look at all the gulls, - razorbills, guillemots and puffins.

0:40:39 > 0:40:43- They're here in their thousands. - They're almost like bees.

0:40:43 > 0:40:48- These cliffs are so high - and so dangerous for any predator.

0:40:48 > 0:40:51- They're safe places - for the birds to nest.

0:40:51 > 0:40:56- The seas are teeming with fish, - so there's plenty of food.

0:40:56 > 0:40:59- This is the ideal place - for them to be.

0:41:00 > 0:41:03- It's easy to describe the scene...

0:41:04 > 0:41:06- ..but the smell is incredible.

0:41:06 > 0:41:11- It's the smell of bird droppings - - a strong smell of rotting fish.

0:41:12 > 0:41:16- It all helps to build a picture - of this incredible scene.

0:41:23 > 0:41:28- On such a glorious day, - with thousands of birds overhead...

0:41:28 > 0:41:33- ..I can't think of a better location - to end my journey.

0:41:33 > 0:41:35- I'm very fortunate.

0:41:35 > 0:41:38- This is only one - of several great locations...

0:41:38 > 0:41:42- ..I've visited on my journey - along Europe's west coast.

0:41:43 > 0:41:46- The adventure started in the Azores.

0:41:47 > 0:41:51- Nine volcanic islands - nestled in the Atlantic...

0:41:51 > 0:41:54- ..and Europe's - most south-westerly point.

0:41:54 > 0:41:58- In Portugal, I visited - rich agricultural land...

0:41:59 > 0:42:01- ..packed with wildlife.

0:42:01 > 0:42:06- In Spain, I came face-to-face - with hundreds of vultures.

0:42:09 > 0:42:12- I climbed the striking Pyrenees - in France.

0:42:13 > 0:42:17- Closer to home, I was reminded - of Britain's beautiful west coast...

0:42:17 > 0:42:19- ..on the Channel Islands.

0:42:19 > 0:42:23- I also visited Cornwall - and the Isles of Scilly.

0:42:23 > 0:42:26- I visited Ireland's wildest areas...

0:42:26 > 0:42:29- ..and Scotland's remotest areas.

0:42:31 > 0:42:36- It has been a privilege - and a tremendous adventure.

0:42:38 > 0:42:43- I've descended underground and seen - impressive hidden landscapes.

0:42:43 > 0:42:46- I've swum with dangerous sharks.

0:42:46 > 0:42:49- I can see the teeth clearly here.

0:42:51 > 0:42:54- I've been stunned - by rich underwater habitats.

0:42:54 > 0:42:59- The Gulf Stream influences - the entire west coast of Europe.

0:43:00 > 0:43:04- I've seen some special creatures, - such as the lynx.

0:43:06 > 0:43:07- I'm so excited. Sorry!

0:43:08 > 0:43:12- I've never seen such a rare animal.

0:43:12 > 0:43:17- I'm not going to talk or move much. - I'm going to stay as still as I can.

0:43:18 > 0:43:21- I saw this beaver in Scotland.

0:43:22 > 0:43:27- Sometimes, I saw the same creature - in different countries.

0:43:27 > 0:43:30- I saw red deer in Spain and Ireland.

0:43:31 > 0:43:34- I saw golden plovers - in Ireland and Iceland...

0:43:34 > 0:43:38- ..and otters in Spain and Scotland.

0:43:39 > 0:43:42- Country borders - mean nothing to wildlife.

0:43:42 > 0:43:46- The quality of the habitat - is more important.

0:43:54 > 0:43:59- Sometimes, the creatures were unique - to a particular part of Europe.

0:44:02 > 0:44:04- Manta rays in the Azores.

0:44:08 > 0:44:10- Marmots in the French Pyrenees.

0:44:11 > 0:44:13- Green lizards on Jersey.

0:44:14 > 0:44:16- Why aren't they seen in Wales?

0:44:17 > 0:44:21- Rare plants - like the Scottish primrose.

0:44:21 > 0:44:23- This is such a rare plant.

0:44:23 > 0:44:27- It is only found - on Scotland's north coast.

0:44:28 > 0:44:32- All kinds of wildlife - that makes each country special.

0:44:48 > 0:44:50- Sometimes, - the landscape was similar.

0:44:51 > 0:44:54- This could be the far end - of Cornwall...

0:44:54 > 0:44:57- ..Pembrokeshire - or the Lleyn Peninsula.

0:44:57 > 0:45:01- Sometimes, it was very different.

0:45:01 > 0:45:05- The landscape of southern Spain - and the huge French sand dunes...

0:45:05 > 0:45:08- ..left a lasting impression.

0:45:08 > 0:45:13- Often, the difference was down - to the way man had treated the land.

0:45:15 > 0:45:20- In Wales, this kind of land - would have been treated.

0:45:20 > 0:45:22- Nettles would have been sprayed.

0:45:22 > 0:45:26- That patch of land - was on Inishbofin in Ireland.

0:45:26 > 0:45:29- It was the ideal habitat - for the corncrake.

0:45:33 > 0:45:38- Unfortunately, I saw some habitats - being destroyed by man's folly.

0:45:38 > 0:45:41- Local ornithologists - who count the birds...

0:45:42 > 0:45:48- ..tell me that they lose at least - 2,000 birds to the turbines...

0:45:48 > 0:45:51- ..every spring and autumn.

0:45:52 > 0:45:58- Hundreds of windmills built on an - important migration path in Spain.

0:46:02 > 0:46:07- I was glad to see the way - some habitats had been saved...

0:46:07 > 0:46:11- ..such as this impressive - steppe land in Portugal.

0:46:11 > 0:46:13- It takes me back to my childhood...

0:46:13 > 0:46:19- ..when I walked through fields - full of flowers, insects and birds.

0:46:21 > 0:46:23- And this agricultural land - in France.

0:46:23 > 0:46:28- I can hear insects - and birds singing everywhere.

0:46:28 > 0:46:30- It's the sound of nature.

0:46:31 > 0:46:33- I also saw some excellent wetlands.

0:46:33 > 0:46:36- What would we give - for land like this at home?

0:46:43 > 0:46:46- That's one of the lessons - of this series.

0:46:47 > 0:46:52- When land is left alone, - nature provides wonderful scenes.

0:46:54 > 0:46:56- This rich tapestry of life - is possible...

0:46:57 > 0:46:59- ..across the whole - of Western Europe.

0:47:11 > 0:47:16- Here, in the far north, - on Grimsey in the Arctic Circle...

0:47:16 > 0:47:18- ..my journey comes to an end.

0:47:18 > 0:47:21- It has been - a very interesting journey.

0:47:21 > 0:47:23- Every country has been different.

0:47:24 > 0:47:28- Each one has its unique character, - landscape and wildlife.

0:47:28 > 0:47:31- But they all - have one thing in common.

0:47:31 > 0:47:34- The undeniable influence - of the Atlantic Ocean.

0:48:27 > 0:48:29- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:48:29 > 0:48:29- .