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0:00:00 > 0:00:03- Wales is a treasure trove - of special buildings.
0:00:04 > 0:00:07- In this series, - I'll step back through the ages...
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- ..to visit several of them...
0:00:10 > 0:00:12- ..from early hall houses...
0:00:13 > 0:00:15- ..to the modern house.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- We can learn much - from studying history...
0:00:19 > 0:00:23- ..but only by studying - architectural history...
0:00:24 > 0:00:28- ..can we form a picture - of how people lived from era to era.
0:00:28 > 0:00:30- Welcome - to Cartrefi Cefn Gwlad Cymru.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37- 888
0:00:43 > 0:00:45- 888
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0:01:13 > 0:01:17- This remarkable book - was published 30 years ago.
0:01:17 > 0:01:22- Houses Of The Welsh Countryside - is the work of the Royal Commission.
0:01:23 > 0:01:26- This is the bible - of traditional Welsh architecture...
0:01:27 > 0:01:32- ..and a milestone - in our understanding of it...
0:01:32 > 0:01:36- ..and of our understanding - of British vernacular buildings.
0:01:42 > 0:01:48- It was the first systematic study - of the history of Welsh buildings.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- It remains the best book - on the subject today.
0:01:55 > 0:02:00- Many other countries, - including our closest neighbours...
0:02:00 > 0:02:03- ..don't have such resources - to refer to.
0:02:06 > 0:02:10- In this series, I'll tell the story - of Welsh architecture...
0:02:10 > 0:02:14- ..as featured - in Peter Smith's amazing book.
0:02:22 > 0:02:26- In this programme, I look - at the earliest medieval houses...
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- ..and visit - some of Wales's finest examples.
0:02:35 > 0:02:38- The Royal Commission in Wales...
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- ..has no record of a house - dating from before 1400.
0:02:42 > 0:02:44- This cut-off seems fundamental.
0:02:44 > 0:02:48- Obviously, there were great houses - before 1400...
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- ..but we have no evidence of them.
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- That absence of houses - can probably be attributed...
0:02:55 > 0:02:59- ..to the devastating effect - of Owain Glyndwr's rebellion.
0:02:59 > 0:03:03- Houses built after the rebellion - were hall houses.
0:03:10 > 0:03:13- Hall houses are splendid, - open homes...
0:03:13 > 0:03:18- ..that existed during - an exciting period in Welsh history.
0:03:18 > 0:03:23- This was the era of the patricians - and the poets sponsored by them.
0:03:23 > 0:03:28- It was also when carpenters - developed their incredible craft.
0:03:31 > 0:03:37- The Royal Commission on the Ancient - and Historical Monuments of Wales...
0:03:37 > 0:03:40- ..in Aberystwyth - is our starting point.
0:03:40 > 0:03:45- The Commission investigates - and archives historical monuments.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53- Houses Of The Welsh Countryside's - author, Peter Smith, says...
0:03:53 > 0:03:57- ..that this is the most important - map in the whole book.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- It notes the distribution - of tower houses...
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- ..which were - fortified medieval dwellings.
0:04:04 > 0:04:07- This map - covers the whole of Britain.
0:04:07 > 0:04:11- It indicates that various - architectural features...
0:04:11 > 0:04:15- ..weren't common - to all parts of Britain.
0:04:15 > 0:04:16- Why was this?
0:04:17 > 0:04:22- Scotland and Ireland - had lots of tower houses...
0:04:22 > 0:04:27- ..but they were rare in Wales, - which was a peaceful nation.
0:04:27 > 0:04:32- Welsh houses were associated - with hospitality and entertainment.
0:04:32 > 0:04:37- The architecture of hall houses - developed into a high craft form...
0:04:37 > 0:04:41- ..that was found in the dwellings - of lords and peasants alike.
0:04:42 > 0:04:47- That remarkable fact is the crux - of Houses Of The Welsh Countryside.
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- The first hall house we visit...
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- ..is Ty Mawr, - near Castle Caereinion.
0:04:59 > 0:05:04- It's one of the best surviving - hall houses in Wales.
0:05:04 > 0:05:06- It dates back to 1460.
0:05:13 > 0:05:15- Who would live in a house like this?
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- It would have been - the home of local gentry.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- It was someone - halfway up the social ladder.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28- He would have made his money - from farming.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31- He probably farmed cattle and sheep.
0:05:32 > 0:05:35- In that respect, - he was quite self-sufficient.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- Naturally, professionals - would have built the house.
0:05:39 > 0:05:44- We might expect a stone house, - but this is timber-framed.
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- Yes, timber-framed houses - were common in the 15th century.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- They were built across Wales - in medieval times.
0:05:54 > 0:05:59- Timber-framed houses were the norm - and wood was in plentiful supply.
0:05:59 > 0:06:03- It's a misconception that Wales - was a land of stone houses.
0:06:04 > 0:06:08- Were any other types of houses - built in the 15th century?
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- No, they were all hall houses, - as far as we know.
0:06:13 > 0:06:17- They varied in size, complexity - and decoration...
0:06:17 > 0:06:20- ..but, essentially, - everyone lived in a hall house.
0:06:20 > 0:06:25- The houses of the poor have vanished - and we know nothing about them.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33- The Grade I listing - of Ty Mawr is remarkable.
0:06:33 > 0:06:39- In the early 1970s, - it resembled a dilapidated barn.
0:06:46 > 0:06:51- It was earmarked as a historic - building by the Royal Commission.
0:06:51 > 0:06:54- Cadw then instigated - its restoration in 1998.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57- According to Peter Smith...
0:06:57 > 0:07:02- ..Ty Mawr was one of the most - important discoveries of his career.
0:07:02 > 0:07:07- We can now appreciate how it looked - when it was built in 1460.
0:07:09 > 0:07:14- We're standing in the open hearth, - in the centre of the building.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- It's one of the main features - of a hall house.
0:07:17 > 0:07:22- We're standing on the site - of the original open hearth.
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- That fireplace was added - 150 years later.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30- It's irrelevant to us.
0:07:31 > 0:07:33- The staircase is modern too.
0:07:33 > 0:07:35- This is an open hall house.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- The owner, who was a member - of the gentry, would live here.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44- He would live his public life - in this space.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46- The top table would be behind us.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50- The servants, the family - and members of the public...
0:07:51 > 0:07:53- ..would be around him here.
0:07:53 > 0:07:55- His wife and his close relatives...
0:07:56 > 0:07:59- ..lived their private lives - behind the dais screen.
0:08:00 > 0:08:04- At the bottom end of the house, - there would be a parlour...
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- ..or, in some cases, a byre.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10- This was a three-unit hall house.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- The crucks support this building.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- That's typical of a hall house.
0:08:21 > 0:08:22- What can you tell us about these?
0:08:22 > 0:08:25- What can you tell us about these?- - This house has one pair of crucks.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- They're arched timber crucks.
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- These crucks usually start - at floor level...
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- ..and reach the roof apex.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36- These were very common - in medieval times.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- This was the normal way - of constructing a building.
0:08:40 > 0:08:44- Timber crucks - follow the tree's natural shape.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48- You simply slice a tree in half, - down the middle...
0:08:48 > 0:08:50- ..to create a pair of crucks.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- The process of creating a cruck - starts before you fell the tree.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- Finding a suitable tree - is half the battle.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- You must select a tree - that has a sturdy branch...
0:09:17 > 0:09:20- ..and cut the crucks - from this section.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25- You then slot them together - to create a pair of crucks.
0:09:30 > 0:09:35- Crucks are a sign that Welsh - medieval houses have survived.
0:09:35 > 0:09:40- To appreciate the dominance - of timber houses in Wales...
0:09:40 > 0:09:44- ..simply study the maps - in Houses Of The Welsh Countryside.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47- If we turn to the maps...
0:09:47 > 0:09:52- ..we see different building patterns - in Wales through the ages.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- This one shows cruck-framed houses - in Wales.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- You can draw a line - from Machynlleth to Newport.
0:10:01 > 0:10:06- Most cruck-framed houses were built - north and east of that line.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- Let's look at another map.
0:10:11 > 0:10:15- This map shows the location - of stone-vaulted houses.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18- These were primarily built - in Pembrokeshire.
0:10:19 > 0:10:23- It's a national pattern - of architecture.
0:10:28 > 0:10:31- The maps were vital - to Peter Smith's research.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35- But why were they so important?
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- From these maps, - we can see for the first time...
0:10:41 > 0:10:45- ..that Wales has many - architectural personalities.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- These come to light - on a regional basis.
0:10:51 > 0:10:55- Things that appear very basic - to us today...
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- ..were groundbreaking in 1975.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02- At that time, - these findings were revolutionary.
0:11:10 > 0:11:15- Another defining feature of a hall - house is the cross-passage.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19- There are doors opposite each other - at both ends.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23- There was no chimney, so smoke - escaped through doors and windows.
0:11:24 > 0:11:27- The original beams - are smoke-blackened.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36- Another important feature - of Ty Mawr is its aisle posts.
0:11:37 > 0:11:40- This post and the truss - that supports it...
0:11:40 > 0:11:46- ..create an aisle - on either side of the open hall.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- It gives it an ecclesiastical feel.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59- The crucks - create a feeling of space...
0:11:59 > 0:12:05- ..but aisle posts used more wood - and were more expensive to build.
0:12:06 > 0:12:11- This gentleman expressed his status - by spending money.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17- By this point in Welsh history...
0:12:18 > 0:12:23- ..you needed a licence to build - anything that resembled a castle.
0:12:23 > 0:12:25- Houses were no longer fortified.
0:12:26 > 0:12:31- But there was no bar - on borrowing castle imagery...
0:12:31 > 0:12:35- ..such as these crenellations, - and using them as decorations.
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- The top of this pillar - looks like a castle turret.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57- Ty Mawr is an important hall house.
0:12:57 > 0:13:02- However, hall houses changed - over time, but in what way?
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0:13:28 > 0:13:31- Ty Mawr was the home - of local gentry...
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..but this one - belonged to a higher class.
0:13:36 > 0:13:40- Don't be fooled - by the agricultural equipment.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- Some splendid halls - are part of the agricultural world.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- Architecurally, - Bryndraenog was astonishing.
0:13:48 > 0:13:52- It reflected the ambition - of the man who built it.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- According to Peter Smith, - on behalf of the Royal Commission...
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- ..this was the most glorious - timber-framed hall in Wales.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05- Much of that external timber - has now vanished.
0:14:16 > 0:14:20- Bryndraenog was built - in the lordship of Maelienydd...
0:14:20 > 0:14:24- ..in the county of Buddugre, - here in Cwmyrhingyll.
0:14:24 > 0:14:27- There's a clue - in the name Cwmyrhingyll.
0:14:27 > 0:14:29- The rhingyll, or the reeve...
0:14:30 > 0:14:34- ..was responsible for the judicial - administration of the lord.
0:14:39 > 0:14:46- The reeve, Llywelyn Fychan ab Ieuan, - built Bryndraenog in 1436.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- He had connections - with the Duke of York...
0:14:50 > 0:14:52- ..the father of Edward IV - and Richard III.
0:14:53 > 0:14:57- This hall has important - and influential connections.
0:15:00 > 0:15:04- This hall had lordship status - and poets performed here.
0:15:04 > 0:15:07- It was magnificent in its day.
0:15:09 > 0:15:14- It's hard to imagine how this - looked when it was first built.
0:15:16 > 0:15:21- We must ignore the central section, - which is a 17th century addition.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25- This was originally a hall, - with outer wings at both ends.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- What makes this house - truly remarkable...
0:15:28 > 0:15:34- ..is the exceptional storeyed porch - with a first-floor room.
0:15:34 > 0:15:38- It proves that the house - had two storeys from the outset.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- Look at the size of this porch - and its amazing timber.
0:15:44 > 0:15:47- These trees were felled - over 500 years ago.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- You can see every hard winter - we've had since it was built!
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- The porch establishes - the owner's status.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15- Here we are in the main hall, Alwyn.
0:16:16 > 0:16:21- It's big now, but was even bigger - when it was originally built.
0:16:21 > 0:16:22- Yes, indeed.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- This would have been one big room.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28- The gallery we now see wasn't here.
0:16:29 > 0:16:30- It's rather imposing.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- The wall behind you - isn't original either.
0:16:35 > 0:16:41- The top table, where the master - feasted and held court, was there.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46- There was an open hearth here, - which is hard to believe.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51- This wall wasn't here either.
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- The room went all the way back - to that panelled wall.
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- Look at it for a minute and you - can read this place like a book.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- The crucks make this really special.
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- There are three bays here.
0:17:05 > 0:17:09- The crucks which go all the way - to the roof apex...
0:17:09 > 0:17:12- ..are both very rare and amazing.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17- The original ceiling - was made entirely of timber.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20- It must have looked incredible.
0:17:20 > 0:17:24- This is a gem - it's all still here, - but it's now hidden.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35- Today, we can use computer graphics - to interpret old houses.
0:17:36 > 0:17:41- It's an effective way to appreciate - how Bryndraenog originally looked.
0:17:41 > 0:17:45- The detail of the roof timbers - is breathtaking.
0:17:50 > 0:17:55- These simulations take us through - the porch, into the cross-passage.
0:17:55 > 0:17:56- As we enter the hall...
0:17:57 > 0:18:01- ..we experience what the lord saw - when he lived here 600 years ago.
0:18:02 > 0:18:04- The open hearth, the top table...
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- ..and beyond the dais screen, - the owner's private chamber.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- The hall changed, over time...
0:18:19 > 0:18:23- ..and the gallery which was added - in 1636 is still here.
0:18:38 > 0:18:43- It's impossible to overstate - the importance of the base crucks.
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- This sort of architecture - was quite common in England...
0:18:47 > 0:18:52- ..but by the time this was built, - it was old hat across the border.
0:18:52 > 0:18:55- Why was Bryndraenog built - in this way?
0:18:55 > 0:19:00- The people who lived here - knew about English fashion...
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- ..so it was a conscious decision - to use this plan.
0:19:04 > 0:19:09- The theory is that they strove - for a link with grand families.
0:19:09 > 0:19:13- That depth of history you get - in old families and old houses.
0:19:14 > 0:19:18- The types of houses that stood - in Owain Glyndwr's time.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25- The modern carpets and plaster - ceilings of Bryndraenog...
0:19:25 > 0:19:30- ..mask the astonishing craftsmanship - of the carpenters that built it.
0:19:30 > 0:19:36- If we look carefully, we can see - trefoiled tracery in the windows.
0:19:37 > 0:19:42- There are delicate mouldings - and chamfers on the beams.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46- As in Ty Mawr, there are - some crenellations here.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- We're in the left wing of the house, - which was the service wing.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- Is there anything different here?
0:19:59 > 0:20:04- This part of the building - was erected in a different way.
0:20:04 > 0:20:08- There are no crucks here. - It's what's known as a box-frame.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13- The timbers are still huge, - but are shorter and easier to source.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- A box-frame is a more common - building technique.
0:20:19 > 0:20:24- You have a corner post and a beam, - which supports the first floor.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- The trusses and the roof above - are separate.
0:20:28 > 0:20:32- They're not part of the frame, - as in a cruck-framed house.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50- An early poem - by Ieuan ap Hywel Swrdwal...
0:20:50 > 0:20:54- ..in praise of Llywelyn ab Ieuan - of Bryndraenog...
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- ..is testament to the hall's status.
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- Dr Dylan Foster Evans - knows a lot about this poem.
0:21:03 > 0:21:08- How common was it for poets - to perform at medieval halls?
0:21:10 > 0:21:14- When this poem was written - and this house was built...
0:21:15 > 0:21:20- ..was on the eve of a very - productive period for the poets.
0:21:20 > 0:21:25- By the 1440s and 1450s, dozens - of poets visit dozens of houses...
0:21:25 > 0:21:28- ..throughout the whole of Wales.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31- The 15th century, - more than any other century...
0:21:32 > 0:21:35- ..was the golden era - of Welsh poetry.
0:21:35 > 0:21:39- Poets liked to think of themselves - as craftsmen.
0:21:39 > 0:21:41- They used craftsmen's phraseology.
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- Yes, they considered themselves - to be craftsmen.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- They often described their poetry - in building terms.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53- They sang about axes - and plumb lines.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- They used the image - of the set square...
0:21:59 > 0:22:03- ..to express the perfection - of their poetry.
0:22:03 > 0:22:08- This very rich imagery - comes from the carpenter's tools.
0:22:10 > 0:22:15- What does Ieuan ap Hywel Swrdwal - say about this house in his poem?
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- Maybe we should look - at the poem itself.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24- It's over 500 years old, - so parts are difficult to decipher.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- The incredible thing is...
0:22:27 > 0:22:31- ..there are parts of it - that are easily understandable.
0:22:33 > 0:22:38- "There is patronage here for us, - in this strath of windows."
0:22:38 > 0:22:43- The windows that he saw are still - here, which is truly amazing.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48- "The duke has many houses - but none shall discipline him."
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- None of those houses - are greater than Bryndraenog...
0:22:54 > 0:22:57- ..or dominate it in any way.
0:23:00 > 0:23:05- I can't leave without having a look - at the glorious roof.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09- It's concealed by the plasterwork, - of course.
0:23:10 > 0:23:12- I feel a little bit - like Indiana Jones!
0:23:22 > 0:23:25- Here we are. We're in the roof.
0:23:26 > 0:23:28- I'm looking down, along the roof.
0:23:29 > 0:23:31- Well, how wonderful!
0:23:33 > 0:23:36- I can see through the crucks, - all the way to the far end.
0:23:37 > 0:23:38- That's incredible.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45- Some of those cusped wind-braces - are still in place.
0:23:48 > 0:23:50- That one, for example.
0:23:52 > 0:23:53- Here's another one.
0:23:54 > 0:23:55- It has fallen down.
0:23:56 > 0:23:59- This piece of wood - and its decorative section...
0:24:01 > 0:24:02- ..is almost 600 years old.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05- It's truly amazing.
0:24:09 > 0:24:09- .
0:24:12 > 0:24:12- 888
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- 888- - 888
0:24:28 > 0:24:31- We've now moved north, - to the Llandudno area.
0:24:31 > 0:24:35- This is the ancestral home - of the Mostyn family...
0:24:35 > 0:24:39- ..an influential family - in both Wales and England.
0:24:39 > 0:24:41- This is Gloddaeth Hall.
0:24:42 > 0:24:46- It's surrounded by buildings - from various periods...
0:24:46 > 0:24:49- ..but the hall - is our main point of interest.
0:24:50 > 0:24:54- Gloddaeth was built of stone. - There is no timber in these walls.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58- It makes - an intentionally robust statement.
0:25:04 > 0:25:08- The Mostyn family - were important landowners.
0:25:08 > 0:25:13- They apparently flourished after - championing Henry VII at Bosworth.
0:25:14 > 0:25:17- Their wealth can be seen - in the walls of Gloddaeth Hall...
0:25:18 > 0:25:21- ..which was built - in the early 16th century.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27- So far, we've focused - on timber-framed halls.
0:25:28 > 0:25:32- Gloddaeth Hall is a blend - of traditional carpentry...
0:25:32 > 0:25:34- ..and stone construction.
0:25:38 > 0:25:42- This is the first time we've seen - a hall in its purest form.
0:25:43 > 0:25:47- There's nothing here to detract - from the original, simple form.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51- This is also the first - end-passage house that we've seen.
0:25:51 > 0:25:56- The cross-passage runs along - the building's most westerly point.
0:25:56 > 0:25:59- There is no service wing - beyond the passage.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02- This was the original size - of the hall.
0:26:04 > 0:26:08- At the far end, - we have the all-important step.
0:26:09 > 0:26:12- It's only a couple of inches high...
0:26:13 > 0:26:17- ..but it separated the lord - from the peasants.
0:26:17 > 0:26:20- There was a wall and a gallery - in Bryndraenog.
0:26:20 > 0:26:25- In Ty Mawr, a chimney - and a staircase had been added.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28- This is the first time - we've stepped to the top table.
0:26:29 > 0:26:34- The windows are huge, - considering when they were built.
0:26:34 > 0:26:38- They were a declaration of affluence - by the owners.
0:26:44 > 0:26:49- Apart from the windows, - the main feature is this mural.
0:26:50 > 0:26:52- It proudly shows - the Tudor coat of arms.
0:26:53 > 0:26:58- At the other end, there is a mural - and a 17th century gallery.
0:27:08 > 0:27:10- Unlike many other halls...
0:27:11 > 0:27:15- ..there was never an open hearth - in the middle of the floor.
0:27:15 > 0:27:19- This hall was built - with this splendid fireplace...
0:27:19 > 0:27:21- ..as part of the architecture.
0:27:22 > 0:27:27- It displays the family coat of arms - both here and on the fireguard.
0:27:27 > 0:27:29- This is the Mostyn family motto.
0:27:30 > 0:27:34- Without God, without anything. - God is enough. Amen.
0:27:34 > 0:27:37- Below it, there's a French motto.
0:27:37 > 0:27:39- Honi soit qui mal y pense...
0:27:39 > 0:27:43- ..shame be to him - who thinks evil of it.
0:27:43 > 0:27:48- Apparently, Henry VII hid - up this chimney at some point.
0:27:48 > 0:27:50- You can stand in there, - so it may be true.
0:28:11 > 0:28:15- How much timber would you need - to create this roof?
0:28:16 > 0:28:17- A dozen large trees.
0:28:17 > 0:28:21- It probably took 20 smaller trees - to create the panels.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25- The trees used - would be centuries old.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29- The grain of the wood - on the end of each hammer beam...
0:28:29 > 0:28:33- ..shows that the trees used in those - were about 150 years old.
0:28:34 > 0:28:36- Welsh oak trees grow quite slowly.
0:28:37 > 0:28:40- They are slow-growing trees...
0:28:41 > 0:28:45- ..compared with the French - and Dutch oak trees we see today.
0:28:46 > 0:28:50- Welsh oak tends to be hard - and extremely heavy.
0:28:51 > 0:28:55- It takes a strong roof - to hold the weight of the wood.
0:28:56 > 0:28:58- Some are arched, as you can see.
0:28:59 > 0:29:01- You see that in oak trees today.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- Welsh oaks are arched - against the prevailing west wind.
0:29:06 > 0:29:11- The're ideally suitable for ships, - crucks and roofs like this.
0:29:11 > 0:29:15- It gives the hall - a very organic shape.
0:29:15 > 0:29:19- Because the oak trees - are naturally arched?
0:29:19 > 0:29:24- They treated the trees to ensure - that they grew with an arch...
0:29:24 > 0:29:27- ..so that they could use them - for roofs like this.
0:29:29 > 0:29:33- Are there clues here to tell us - how this roof was constructed?
0:29:33 > 0:29:37- The timber has darkened - quite considerably...
0:29:37 > 0:29:39- ..both by smoke and by time...
0:29:39 > 0:29:44- ..but you can see marks made by - tools such as saws and chisels.
0:29:47 > 0:29:48- You can also see marks...
0:29:49 > 0:29:52- ..where the wood was split - in the coppice.
0:29:52 > 0:29:57- Some of the trees - were long, straight oaks...
0:29:57 > 0:30:02- ..which were then quartered, - I should imagine.
0:30:03 > 0:30:04- How do you know that?
0:30:04 > 0:30:06- How do you know that?- - I know that from experience.
0:30:06 > 0:30:10- You can see tear marks - on the face of the purlin.
0:30:10 > 0:30:14- Those are the telltale marks.
0:30:37 > 0:30:41- Hendre'r Ywydd Uchaf - is now at St Fagans.
0:30:41 > 0:30:45- It was moved to the museum - from the Vale of Clwyd.
0:30:48 > 0:30:52- We often think of the hall house - as a grand gentry house...
0:30:52 > 0:30:55- ..with a magnificent open space.
0:30:55 > 0:30:59- As Houses Of The Welsh Countryside - has proved...
0:30:59 > 0:31:02- ..rather than being - an aristocratic dwelling...
0:31:03 > 0:31:06- ..the hall house - is a typical, medieval Welsh house.
0:31:17 > 0:31:21- Few examples of cruck-framed - peasant halls have survived.
0:31:21 > 0:31:25- Those that have survived - follow the same pattern.
0:31:25 > 0:31:29- A single-bay hall, - a parlour at the top end...
0:31:29 > 0:31:34- ..a passage and, unusually here, - a byre at the bottom.
0:31:43 > 0:31:48- Four oak crucks support the roof - of Hendre'r Ywydd Uchaf.
0:31:49 > 0:31:51- The walls don't support the roof.
0:31:51 > 0:31:55- They have been limewashed, - as was common practice.
0:31:56 > 0:32:00- The structural framing wasn't used - as external decoration...
0:32:02 > 0:32:03- ..until the 16th century.
0:32:14 > 0:32:18- When you mention a hall house, - people expect to see something huge.
0:32:19 > 0:32:20- This is a hall house...
0:32:20 > 0:32:24- ..and what defines it as such - is the open hearth.
0:32:24 > 0:32:27- We've touched on this many times...
0:32:27 > 0:32:30- ..but this is the first example - we've seen.
0:32:30 > 0:32:33- It certainly proves - that it's a hall house.
0:32:33 > 0:32:36- We've seen everything - in this house before...
0:32:36 > 0:32:39- ..but this is on a smaller scale.
0:32:39 > 0:32:44- We can touch the framework here - and appreciate its scale.
0:33:01 > 0:33:03- I referred to this - as a peasant hall.
0:33:04 > 0:33:06- Is that misleading?
0:33:06 > 0:33:10- Yes, the word 'peasant' - can be misconstrued.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12- A successful person built this.
0:33:12 > 0:33:16- This person may not have had - financial wealth...
0:33:16 > 0:33:21- ..but they created enough produce - to eat well, to dress well...
0:33:21 > 0:33:23- ..and to have a social life.
0:33:23 > 0:33:28- What about this house - leads you to believe that?
0:33:28 > 0:33:30- It's big and it's well-built.
0:33:31 > 0:33:36- It has survived since 1504, - so the structural work was sturdy.
0:33:36 > 0:33:38- That's usually a good pointer.
0:33:38 > 0:33:43- One important thing that cements - the house it in its period...
0:33:44 > 0:33:46- ..is that it has no windows.
0:33:46 > 0:33:50- Natural light is an important part - of modern architecture.
0:33:50 > 0:33:54- At this time, if it was light, - you would be outdoors.
0:33:55 > 0:33:59- Airing the building and keeping - people warm were the priorities.
0:34:00 > 0:34:04- These small openings are big enough - to expel the smoke.
0:34:13 > 0:34:16- How would people live in this room?
0:34:16 > 0:34:21- There were benches on either side - and light work would be done here.
0:34:21 > 0:34:24- Herbs would be hung - from the roof to dry.
0:34:25 > 0:34:27- Meat was also smoked there.
0:34:28 > 0:34:29- Candles were created...
0:34:30 > 0:34:34- ..by using fat from the meat - which they cooked on the fire.
0:34:34 > 0:34:38- A reed was pulled through the fat - to create a wick for the candle.
0:34:39 > 0:34:43- People would weave and do - more intricate work in this space.
0:34:43 > 0:34:46- Would this have been an earth floor?
0:34:46 > 0:34:48- Would this have been an earth floor?- - Yes, earth and reeds.
0:34:48 > 0:34:52- We think of 16th century people - as being smelly, like Baldrick...
0:34:53 > 0:34:57- ..but they used reeds and herbs, - which include oils such as citrus...
0:34:58 > 0:35:02- ..and they brushed the floor - with them to release the aroma.
0:35:02 > 0:35:04- It sweetened the air.
0:35:18 > 0:35:22- By the time the peasants - caught up with the latest fashion...
0:35:22 > 0:35:27- ..the gentry who had lived in halls - for some time had moved on.
0:35:27 > 0:35:29- What sort of houses did they build?
0:35:33 > 0:35:34- .
0:35:37 > 0:35:37- 888
0:35:37 > 0:35:39- 888- - 888
0:36:11 > 0:36:14- We've now reached - the north-west coast of Wales.
0:36:14 > 0:36:16- This is Egryn Hall.
0:36:16 > 0:36:20- When we enter the hall, - we step into a Victorian vestibule.
0:36:20 > 0:36:25- It's beautiful, but far more modern - than the era we're discussing.
0:36:25 > 0:36:27- But this was the cross-passage.
0:36:27 > 0:36:31- The door opposite this one - has disappeared.
0:36:31 > 0:36:35- Everything at the bottom end - has also disappeared...
0:36:35 > 0:36:38- ..and been rebuilt at a later date.
0:36:38 > 0:36:40- This really is a hall house.
0:36:40 > 0:36:44- Through here, we'll see a feature - that we haven't yet seen.
0:36:45 > 0:36:47- That revolutionary feature - - a ceiling.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56- This ceiling - isn't original to Egryn...
0:36:56 > 0:37:01- ..but it's important - because it shows that halls evolved.
0:37:01 > 0:37:03- The hall was built in 1510.
0:37:04 > 0:37:06- It was modified a century later.
0:37:07 > 0:37:11- Egryn has now been restored - by the National Trust.
0:37:11 > 0:37:16- It shows our changing attitudes - to space across the centuries.
0:37:24 > 0:37:26- Liz, apart from the ceiling...
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- ..what else has changed at Egryn?
0:37:29 > 0:37:34- Before the ceiling was added, - there was an open fire on the floor.
0:37:35 > 0:37:37- The smoke would rise up - to the roof.
0:37:38 > 0:37:43- The biggest modification - was the addition of this fireplace.
0:37:43 > 0:37:48- The mouldings are very posh. - They were the height of fashion.
0:37:49 > 0:37:51- They created a new lounge...
0:37:51 > 0:37:56- ..with the addition of a ceiling - and first-floor bedrooms.
0:37:56 > 0:37:59- Windows were also added at that time.
0:37:59 > 0:38:03- What spurred them on - to make these modifications?
0:38:03 > 0:38:05- It was partly due - to the new fashion.
0:38:06 > 0:38:09- Keeping up with the Joneses - was always important.
0:38:10 > 0:38:13- We all want to create more space - in our homes.
0:38:13 > 0:38:16- This opportunity presented itself.
0:38:16 > 0:38:21- They created bedrooms for the family - and more private rooms.
0:38:23 > 0:38:25- It evolved into a family home.
0:38:48 > 0:38:51- The great advantage of a ceiling...
0:38:51 > 0:38:55- ..was that the owner could create - a private chamber for himself.
0:38:56 > 0:38:58- In this case, several chambers.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02- The advantage for us is a close-up - view of the roof structure.
0:39:02 > 0:39:06- We can even embrace the apex - of the cruck, for the first time.
0:39:07 > 0:39:09- It's wonderful - to be able to do that.
0:39:10 > 0:39:14- We can see the old and the new, - joined together with these pegs.
0:39:14 > 0:39:19- They've even recreated - the quatrefoil bracing...
0:39:20 > 0:39:23- ..by reconstructing - the cusped braces.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27- There are more quatrefoils - in the roof.
0:39:27 > 0:39:31- These are wind-braces - to strengthen the roof.
0:39:31 > 0:39:35- Another feature - which we haven't yet seen...
0:39:35 > 0:39:38- ..is this flower, - which is known as a boss.
0:39:39 > 0:39:43- That's an original boss - and it's a rare sight in Wales.
0:39:43 > 0:39:45- They're becoming less rare...
0:39:46 > 0:39:49- ..because they've added a new one - on this aisle beam.
0:39:51 > 0:39:56- It's a joy to stand here, - surrounded by this symphony of wood.
0:40:04 > 0:40:08- Houses Of The Welsh Countryside...
0:40:08 > 0:40:13- ..has maps guiding us - to each house's important features.
0:40:13 > 0:40:18- This map shows where to find - the bosses I mentioned earlier.
0:40:19 > 0:40:23- It appears to be a fashion - that filtered across the border.
0:40:23 > 0:40:27- You'll find them in Denbighshire - and Flintshire...
0:40:27 > 0:40:30- ..but bosses are rare - in the rest of Wales.
0:40:52 > 0:40:56- This is where the 16th century - and the 21st century meet...
0:40:56 > 0:40:59- ..to create a revolutionary home.
0:40:59 > 0:41:04- This conversion at Rhyd-y-Carw - is bold, honest and contemporary.
0:41:10 > 0:41:15- The open spaces within hall houses - are perfect for keeping stock.
0:41:15 > 0:41:19- It's fair to say - that many hall houses were saved...
0:41:19 > 0:41:22- ..because they were useful - agriculturally.
0:41:22 > 0:41:27- This hall escaped the fashion - for rebuilding walls in stone...
0:41:27 > 0:41:32- ..or additions like extra doors, - internal staircases and fireplaces.
0:41:42 > 0:41:46- Rhyd-y-Carw hall house was built - in Trefeglwys, Powys, in 1525.
0:41:47 > 0:41:51- It was then modified into a barn - during the 17th century.
0:41:53 > 0:41:57- This building was only a home - for 150 years.
0:41:57 > 0:42:02- The recent contemporary conversion - has breathed new life into it.
0:42:02 > 0:42:06- You usually enter a hall house - through a cross-passage.
0:42:06 > 0:42:12- In this modern house, you enter - through a glorious glass tunnel...
0:42:12 > 0:42:17- ..that leads into an ultra-modern - black and white Japanese kitchen.
0:42:18 > 0:42:22- These are elements - which belong to the 21st century.
0:42:22 > 0:42:27- There's little here to suggest - that we're in a hall house.
0:42:28 > 0:42:31- Only when you step into the hall...
0:42:31 > 0:42:34- ..do you see the building - in all its glory.
0:42:34 > 0:42:37- They have recreated the top table...
0:42:37 > 0:42:41- ..where the householder would dine, - near the dais screen.
0:42:41 > 0:42:44- They have also hung a tapestry - on the wall.
0:42:44 > 0:42:49- There would have been a tapestry - here years ago, of course.
0:42:49 > 0:42:54- That's a cross-passage, one end - of which has been blocked off.
0:42:55 > 0:42:59- It amazes me to see how well - a modern lounge sits in this space.
0:43:00 > 0:43:05- It seems to fit perfectly within - its 500-year-old surroundings.
0:43:17 > 0:43:21- In addition to deft weaving - of the old and the new...
0:43:22 > 0:43:27- ..sustainability has been - at the core of this redevelopment.
0:43:27 > 0:43:31- Which features - of this 16th century house...
0:43:32 > 0:43:35- ..make it suitable - for modern living?
0:43:36 > 0:43:41- I think it's the vast possibilities - offered by Rhyd-y-Carw.
0:43:42 > 0:43:47- It's our responsibility to strive - to reduce our carbon footprint.
0:43:48 > 0:43:51- This house has great potential...
0:43:51 > 0:43:54- ..and the new owners - realized that potential.
0:43:55 > 0:43:58- This side of the house - is south-facing.
0:43:59 > 0:44:03- Most of the windows - are on this side of the house.
0:44:05 > 0:44:08- There are a few windows - on the east and west walls...
0:44:09 > 0:44:13- ..and, wisely, almost nothing - on the north-facing wall.
0:44:15 > 0:44:20- There's a ground source heat pump - beneath the lawn.
0:44:21 > 0:44:26- A heated liquid is then pumped - into the underfloor heating boiler.
0:44:30 > 0:44:33- What energy-saving technology - has been used here?
0:44:34 > 0:44:38- If you look at the windows, you can - see the thickness of the walls.
0:44:39 > 0:44:45- They've been insulated with cellulose - from recycled newspapers.
0:44:45 > 0:44:50- The double-glazed windows - have low emissivity glass.
0:44:50 > 0:44:55- It changes frequency when it's sunny - and traps heat in a room.
0:44:56 > 0:44:59- These window frames - are made of local oak.
0:44:59 > 0:45:02- They were custom-built - by a local craftsman.
0:45:03 > 0:45:08- There's a heat recovery - ventilation system on the ceiling.
0:45:10 > 0:45:14- Fresh, dry air enters the building - and it circulates.
0:45:14 > 0:45:19- The stale air is extracted here - to minimize condensation.
0:45:19 > 0:45:22- As an architect, - are you fond of this house?
0:45:23 > 0:45:26- Yes, because the old and the new - interweave well.
0:45:27 > 0:45:30- You can see the old - and you can celebrate it...
0:45:30 > 0:45:34- ..but you can also enjoy - 21st century comforts.
0:45:35 > 0:45:40- The bedroom actually slots - between the pair of crucks.
0:45:42 > 0:45:47- On the other side, where previous - owners raised the roof level...
0:45:47 > 0:45:51- ..they have created a dressing area - and a bathroom.
0:45:51 > 0:45:53- It's three periods in one room.
0:45:54 > 0:45:58- The old cruck, the barn - and the new house meld perfectly.
0:45:58 > 0:45:59- It's glorious.
0:46:17 > 0:46:21- What they've created here - is genuinely brave.
0:46:21 > 0:46:24- They were brave to tackle the work - in the first place.
0:46:25 > 0:46:29- The importance of the original - hall house didn't frighten them.
0:46:30 > 0:46:34- They didn't try to pickle it - in an ambiguous 'old' period.
0:46:34 > 0:46:38- What they've created - belongs to the here and now.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42- Its feet are planted in the past, - but it looks to the future.
0:46:53 > 0:46:58- As our tour of magnificent - hall houses ends...
0:46:59 > 0:47:02- ..we return to Ty Mawr - in Castle Caereinion...
0:47:03 > 0:47:08- ..to hear from Peter Smith, author - of Homes Of The Welsh Countryside.
0:47:08 > 0:47:10- Is Ty Mawr your favourite?
0:47:11 > 0:47:13- Yes, it's my favourite.
0:47:13 > 0:47:17- There are some other - magnificent hall houses in Wales...
0:47:17 > 0:47:20- ..but Ty Mawr - is probably my favourite.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23- Look at what you see here today.
0:47:25 > 0:47:28- When I first saw the interior - of this house...
0:47:32 > 0:47:37- ..I recalled the words - of Howard Carter in Egypt.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41- "I can see wonderful things."
0:47:52 > 0:47:55- The greatest triumph of my life.
0:48:16 > 0:48:19- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:48:19 > 0:48:20- .