0:00:26 > 0:00:31Gloucestershire - swathes of fertile farmland,
0:00:31 > 0:00:34rolling lush pasture and my home county.
0:00:35 > 0:00:39It's got a proud food heritage as farmers, myself and other local
0:00:39 > 0:00:43producers spend our lives working the Gloucestershire land
0:00:43 > 0:00:45purely to get food on plates.
0:00:45 > 0:00:48Plenty of you will have sampled some of the delights
0:00:48 > 0:00:52that this county has to offer, like single Gloucester cheese
0:00:52 > 0:00:54or Gloucestershire Old Spot sausages
0:00:54 > 0:00:56all washed down with a local brew.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59There are lots of local producers with great food and drink
0:00:59 > 0:01:02well worth shouting about and today,
0:01:02 > 0:01:04I'm off to meet up with a few of them.
0:01:05 > 0:01:08In this special edition of Countryfile,
0:01:08 > 0:01:12we're taking bites from the archive in a gastronomic extravaganza
0:01:12 > 0:01:16and later, I'll be rustling up a meal with my daughter, Ella,
0:01:16 > 0:01:18made from locally produced food...
0:01:18 > 0:01:20- It's working, it's working. - Is it?
0:01:20 > 0:01:22- Yeah. Do you want to try? - No, I'll drop it.
0:01:22 > 0:01:25'..all served up with generous portions of this lot -
0:01:25 > 0:01:28'Matt and Ellie take on a culinary challenge.'
0:01:28 > 0:01:32I would like to introduce you to the Yorkshire pudding adventure.
0:01:32 > 0:01:33Please don't eat it all at once.
0:01:33 > 0:01:37'Jules confronts his worst food fear...'
0:01:37 > 0:01:40Keep chewing. Keep chewing.
0:01:40 > 0:01:44'..and I meet my match in another fiery redhead - hot chilli sauce.'
0:01:44 > 0:01:46SHE LAUGHS
0:01:57 > 0:02:02My mission today is to cook tea with my 14-year-old daughter, Ella.
0:02:02 > 0:02:06Now, I confess, I'm no Raymond Blanc, so just a simple pizza.
0:02:06 > 0:02:10I'm not thinking of anything fancy, just a wholesome bread base,
0:02:10 > 0:02:14some kind of cheese, some sauce and a few toppings,
0:02:14 > 0:02:18but can I get everything I need without racking up the miles?
0:02:19 > 0:02:23I'm going to try and get my main ingredients from within a 10 mile
0:02:23 > 0:02:25radius of my farm in the heart of the Cotswolds.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29And where better for a novice like me to start than at the bottom?
0:02:29 > 0:02:31Well, the base, in this instance.
0:02:31 > 0:02:35This is Stanway Mill, a restored Watermill
0:02:35 > 0:02:37five miles away from my farm.
0:02:37 > 0:02:39I need some flour for my pizza dough
0:02:39 > 0:02:41and Mike Lovett is the man of the mill.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- Mike, hi.- Hello, Adam. Welcome to Stanway Mill.
0:02:47 > 0:02:51I only live just up the road and I know very little about this place.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53- What's its history? - It's a well-kept secret.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57It's probably 1,000 years old and in 2002,
0:02:57 > 0:03:01Lord Wemyss, who owns the estate and the mill,
0:03:01 > 0:03:04decided he'd like to restore it and we spent 10 years
0:03:04 > 0:03:07bringing it back to being a corn mill.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11The millstones at the heart of this operation cost around £150
0:03:11 > 0:03:16back in the 1750s, that's about £150,000 in today's money.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19These are the Rolls-Royce of millstones
0:03:19 > 0:03:21made from a type of French quartz.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25But milling the flower is still pretty labour-intensive
0:03:25 > 0:03:28with buckets in hand and a lot of legwork.
0:03:28 > 0:03:33It goes up into two bins where you can hold four tonnes altogether.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37And then the grain runs out of the bottom,
0:03:37 > 0:03:41down the chute and into the millstones.
0:03:41 > 0:03:43What variety of wheat is this?
0:03:43 > 0:03:46This is solstice, which is a good old-fashioned variety.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- Yeah, good milling wheat, isn't it? - Good milling wheat.
0:03:49 > 0:03:54- Where's it from?- It's from Philip Mann's farm about a mile away.
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- I know Philip. Couldn't be more local, could it?- No, indeed.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01'Once the grain's in the bin, it's time to let in the water
0:04:01 > 0:04:03'and set the mill in motion.'
0:04:08 > 0:04:10What an absolute beast!
0:04:11 > 0:04:13An incredible piece of engineering.
0:04:14 > 0:04:18'The massive 24 foot waterwheel is the eighth largest in the country.'
0:04:20 > 0:04:23Goodness me, Mike. That wheel is absolutely enormous, isn't it?
0:04:23 > 0:04:25I bet you love it, being an ex-engineer.
0:04:25 > 0:04:27- Big boys toys, isn't it?- Absolutely.
0:04:27 > 0:04:30That feeling of power when you let the water over,
0:04:30 > 0:04:32it's something for nothing, really.
0:04:32 > 0:04:35So what's happening now, what's the process?
0:04:35 > 0:04:39The flour is coming down from above through this trunking.
0:04:39 > 0:04:43We've got the choice, we can either drop it straight into a bag
0:04:43 > 0:04:47- so there's nowt taken out...- So that's wholemeal.- That's wholemeal.
0:04:47 > 0:04:52..or we can shunt this over, we can send it to an elevator
0:04:52 > 0:04:55and down into a grader, like a massive sieve.
0:04:55 > 0:05:01And what that does is spit out the flour...
0:05:01 > 0:05:04the different granules drop through a different part of the sieve
0:05:04 > 0:05:08so we've got fine, medium or course.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13Otherwise known as semolina or semi-molina because it's semi-milled.
0:05:13 > 0:05:15Oh, I see, yeah.
0:05:15 > 0:05:18And the bran, which we don't want, comes out the end.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21- Where does that go? - Bran goes to feed pigs locally.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24Is there a good market for this specialist flour
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- because it's a big effort, isn't it? - It is a big effort.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31I think there's been a resurgence in interest for natural flour.
0:05:31 > 0:05:33- Have you got some for me? - We have indeed.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36So, this is what you want - the stone-ground white flour.
0:05:36 > 0:05:381.5 kilos in there.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- What's that worth, a couple of quid? - Couple of quid.- There we go.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43Lovely. Thank you very much.
0:05:43 > 0:05:45Thank you very much indeed. It's been a real treat.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50So that's the flour for my pizza base.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53Last winter, Ellie set Matt his own culinary challenge -
0:05:53 > 0:05:57to make Yorkshire puds, but first she wanted to see how these famous
0:05:57 > 0:06:01puds were made the old-fashioned way.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05Skidby Mill is the last working windmill in Yorkshire.
0:06:08 > 0:06:11Neil Johnson is the resident miller here at Skidby.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14Recently qualified, he's a new hand at an old trade.
0:06:14 > 0:06:16All right, Neil?
0:06:17 > 0:06:19- Hello.- How you doing?
0:06:19 > 0:06:23Wow, that looked quite hairy, getting those sails turning?
0:06:23 > 0:06:26Yeah, it's quite a job in this weather.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29Usually we don't run the mill in winds past 25 knots,
0:06:29 > 0:06:32but, fortunately, today it's about 20 so we're all right.
0:06:32 > 0:06:34- We got lucky today?- Definitely.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37- So, here it is. - Yep, this is wholemeal flour.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40Historically, it would have been wholemeal flour that would've
0:06:40 > 0:06:43been used for all types of baking, including Yorkshire puddings?
0:06:43 > 0:06:46- Definitely.- So I could take this away and make some Yorkshires?
0:06:46 > 0:06:49It'll be the best tasting Yorkshire puddings you've ever had.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52'What I need now is some expert help.'
0:06:53 > 0:06:55Ben Cox is a top chef who was
0:06:55 > 0:06:59recently voted the county's best Yorkshire pudding maker.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03What are the chances of you making Yorkshires with wholemeal?
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- I'm sure I can.- Here you are.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07- OK.- Let's see the master at work.
0:07:07 > 0:07:11'Ben's using stock, his secret ingredient, then milk,
0:07:11 > 0:07:13'then whisk.'
0:07:13 > 0:07:15How long did it take you to perfect your recipe?
0:07:15 > 0:07:18I've been making Yorkshire puddings since I left school.
0:07:18 > 0:07:20'Because we've used wholemeal,
0:07:20 > 0:07:22'Ben sieves the batter to remove any husks.'
0:07:22 > 0:07:24- What's that?- Some pepper.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27Plenty of salt in there. Sage in there.
0:07:31 > 0:07:33A nice hot oven. Perfect.
0:07:34 > 0:07:35BEEPING
0:07:35 > 0:07:38OK, let's have a look at these.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40'So, you can make Yorkshire puds
0:07:40 > 0:07:43'using wholemeal flour if you're a top chef.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47'But for our challenge, Matt and I will be sticking with plain.
0:07:47 > 0:07:51'But there's a twist - Matt's going all scientific.
0:07:51 > 0:07:54'Here's Jonathan Edwards from the Royal Society Of Chemistry
0:07:54 > 0:07:59'with the exact formula for perfect Yorkshire puds. Hmm.'
0:07:59 > 0:08:02What the blazes is this, Jonathan?
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- Why... Lactose solution? I'm guessing milk.- Milk.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09- Ovoids of the protein variety? - Eggs.- Eggs.
0:08:09 > 0:08:10SHE LAUGHS
0:08:10 > 0:08:14- And a reaction vessel? - My reaction vessel.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17So you reckon this will help you and Matt win the challenge?
0:08:17 > 0:08:19This is tested scientifically,
0:08:19 > 0:08:22it is definitely going to lead to a perfect Yorkshire pudding.
0:08:22 > 0:08:25'I'm sticking to traditional methods,
0:08:25 > 0:08:28'so I've called in the help of farmers wife, Mary Rook.'
0:08:28 > 0:08:29How about it?
0:08:29 > 0:08:30'Right on cue...'
0:08:30 > 0:08:33Sorry I'm late, I've had to walk here.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35What time do you call this?
0:08:35 > 0:08:37This is all very scientific, my word.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41- Look at your lab coat there. - Yeah, that looks very homely
0:08:41 > 0:08:43and this looks a little bit clinical.
0:08:43 > 0:08:45'We've got our full complement of presenters,
0:08:45 > 0:08:48'all we need now is a judge.'
0:08:50 > 0:08:55Enter Mandy Wragg - food writer and Good Food Guide adviser.
0:08:57 > 0:09:02OK, teams, you have half an hour to complete the task.
0:09:02 > 0:09:09In five, four, three, two, one. Start cooking.
0:09:16 > 0:09:18Double check.
0:09:18 > 0:09:20Organised chaos.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22Lumpless as you can get it.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- You've got more in than we have. - Don't you question your formula.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29'Keep your nose out, Baker.'
0:09:29 > 0:09:32Mary seems to be tutoring Ellie quite well there.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35We just need to get it to be like a double cream consistency.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38Eggs, they're made of protein and water.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41Too much talking going on with the scientists and not enough doing.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45Matt, excuse me, I think a little less talking
0:09:45 > 0:09:47and a little more doing is required.
0:09:47 > 0:09:48- More grafting, Baker.- Sorry.
0:09:48 > 0:09:50'First warning from the referee.'
0:09:53 > 0:09:56You've had five minutes, teams, please.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04That'll be fine.
0:10:04 > 0:10:06- How many eggs have you got in there? - Two eggs.
0:10:06 > 0:10:09- Two eggs is 100 grams.- Eggs, what are they? We're using ovoids.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12- Oh, right. - We're using protein ovoids.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15I'd like to see these going into the oven very soon, please, teams.
0:10:15 > 0:10:17Here's one lot going in now.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- Quick, Ben! Quick!- Sorry.
0:10:21 > 0:10:24- Sorry, he's helping us. - You're stalling on purpose.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28You were. The old classic, "What temperature is it at?"
0:10:28 > 0:10:32We're looking for a really nicely risen pudding.
0:10:32 > 0:10:36A Yorkshire pudding's got to have a very nice height to it.
0:10:36 > 0:10:38It's got to have a nice crispiness outside,
0:10:38 > 0:10:42inside it wants a nice softness and a bit of stodginess to it.
0:10:42 > 0:10:45- Not quite a recipe book, is it, the whiteboard?- Not really, no.
0:10:45 > 0:10:49- I suppose, if it works. - We'll see.
0:10:49 > 0:10:50Oh, dear.
0:10:50 > 0:10:54'You wanted risen, just look at that.'
0:10:54 > 0:10:58I tell you what, if that arrived with my Sunday dinner,
0:10:58 > 0:11:00I would be absolutely delighted.
0:11:00 > 0:11:03That is not a Yorkshire pudding, that is a shed.
0:11:03 > 0:11:04If you went to a restaurant
0:11:04 > 0:11:08and it claimed it made the best Yorkshire puddings in the world
0:11:08 > 0:11:12and that arrived, you'd go, "Ho-ho! I'm eating in the right place."
0:11:12 > 0:11:16'Joking aside, it now gets serious.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19'Over to our expert judges.'
0:11:19 > 0:11:23I would like to introduce you to the Yorkshire pudding adventure.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25Please don't eat it all at once.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- OK.- OK.
0:11:27 > 0:11:31I think I might start with the small one.
0:11:31 > 0:11:35Hmm. This has got that, sort of, slightly squidgy bottom
0:11:35 > 0:11:38that you were talking about, hasn't it? Absolutely.
0:11:40 > 0:11:41Do you think we should have
0:11:41 > 0:11:43some mountaineering equipment for this one?
0:11:43 > 0:11:45Has someone got a chainsaw?
0:11:45 > 0:11:47Let's tear this baby apart.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50Yes. Bit of burning on the outside.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53It tastes a lot better than it looks, I have to say.
0:11:53 > 0:11:55Miles better than it looks.
0:11:55 > 0:11:59- The base is very good.- Full marks for creating a monster.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02I have to say, it's a very, very close run thing.
0:12:02 > 0:12:08Despite this looking quite ugly, actually, it tastes pretty good.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13- But I preferred this one.- OH!
0:12:13 > 0:12:16- Yes! Put it there.- Back to the kitchen and get washing-up.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19Do you know what, Jon, I'm really proud of what we did.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22'The humble pud may have been putting Yorkshire
0:12:22 > 0:12:24'on the culinary map for years,
0:12:24 > 0:12:27'but tonight, we're celebrating local produce
0:12:27 > 0:12:29'from all over the country.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32'So Jules headed to the Cornish coast to seek out one of their
0:12:32 > 0:12:36'traditional foods that's been off the menu for a long time.'
0:12:45 > 0:12:48Now, it used to be a staple food in this part of the world,
0:12:48 > 0:12:52but for decades, it was largely absent from the great British menu
0:12:52 > 0:12:56until recently, when it's made a striking comeback.
0:13:02 > 0:13:05And this is it - the Cornish sardine.
0:13:05 > 0:13:08Or pilchard.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11This silvery little fish has attracted a newcomer
0:13:11 > 0:13:13to this part of the coast - a chef -
0:13:13 > 0:13:16but his story begins halfway around the world.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22Sanjay Kumar grew up in Bengal, where he first began cooking.
0:13:22 > 0:13:25He's followed his taste buds ever since,
0:13:25 > 0:13:27until he made roots here in Cornwall.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30What was it about cooking that got you started?
0:13:30 > 0:13:34Well, to be honest, my father is a really, really bad cook
0:13:34 > 0:13:37and that kind of showed to me and my brother, who's also a chef,
0:13:37 > 0:13:40that if you don't pick up this skill for life now,
0:13:40 > 0:13:41we'll die hungry of starvation.
0:13:41 > 0:13:45And both of us are chefs in our life, so that proves it all.
0:13:45 > 0:13:46So you started in Bengal?
0:13:46 > 0:13:49Yes, it's a long journey, but it all relates to fish.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51Bengalis are called fish and rice people
0:13:51 > 0:13:54and look at this beautiful sardine here.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56This just is an amazing fish,
0:13:56 > 0:13:58easy to cook and really, really delicious.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01Well, I have a slight confession to make, Sanjay.
0:14:01 > 0:14:03There are two types of people in this world,
0:14:03 > 0:14:05those who love fish in all its forms
0:14:05 > 0:14:08and there are those who don't. Guess which camp I'm in?
0:14:08 > 0:14:12I...I...I was half expecting this was going to happen,
0:14:12 > 0:14:14but, trust me, I'm going to try my best.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17Right, mate. This could be a turning point.
0:14:17 > 0:14:18Don't let me down.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26To make the sardines easier for me to swallow,
0:14:26 > 0:14:29Sanjay is going to spice things up a bit.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32Basically taking some Cornish sardines and basting it with
0:14:32 > 0:14:36- some garam masala. Garam, in India, means hot.- It's lovely.
0:14:36 > 0:14:40It kind of gives you that warmth inside
0:14:40 > 0:14:44which kind of keeps you going through the winter days.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49'Sanjay's serving me the sardines in a wrap
0:14:49 > 0:14:51'with a rhubarb and tomato chutney.'
0:14:51 > 0:14:53- One of my big problems is the smell of fish.- Yep.
0:14:53 > 0:14:57But, actually, this, to be fair, doesn't smell fishy at all.
0:14:57 > 0:15:00I mean, how fresh and local can it get than this?
0:15:05 > 0:15:07Just roll it nicely, like a cigar.
0:15:09 > 0:15:14We give a cheer to Cornwall, to fish, tin and copper.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18To fish, tin and copper and my very first sardine. Right.
0:15:18 > 0:15:19What do you think?
0:15:26 > 0:15:30That's actually really nice. LAUGHS
0:15:30 > 0:15:31What have I been missing out on?
0:15:33 > 0:15:36'I've got an idea of how to say thanks to the chef.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39'Later, I'll be taking him on a little adventure,
0:15:39 > 0:15:42'but first, I'm intrigued to discover how the pilchard
0:15:42 > 0:15:45'came to be known as the Cornish sardine.'
0:15:46 > 0:15:50Records of a pilchard fishery here go back to 1555.
0:15:50 > 0:15:54Exporting to the continent, catches steadily grew.
0:15:54 > 0:15:5816,000 tonnes were hauled in 1871 alone,
0:15:58 > 0:16:00before the industry crashed.
0:16:00 > 0:16:04Bigger boats meant that a far greater variety of fish could be caught
0:16:04 > 0:16:09further out to sea. The poor old pilchard was largely forgotten
0:16:09 > 0:16:11until one man had an idea.
0:16:12 > 0:16:16It used to be known as a pilchard and the image of pilchards is
0:16:16 > 0:16:20tins, tomato sauce. The image of a sardine is sunshine
0:16:20 > 0:16:23barbecues etc. So it was changing the name to Cornish sardines
0:16:23 > 0:16:25that changed the perception of what it was.
0:16:25 > 0:16:30How are we doing, in terms of this revival? In terms of tonnage?
0:16:30 > 0:16:32In 1998, the landings were about
0:16:32 > 0:16:35seven tonnes per year, coming in here.
0:16:35 > 0:16:38The landings are now 2,200 tonnes.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41We've done the research with the marine council
0:16:41 > 0:16:43to find out what the size of the stock is.
0:16:43 > 0:16:46You're talking of 600,000 tonnes,
0:16:46 > 0:16:49so what we're taking is very sustainable
0:16:49 > 0:16:51and we've got a lot of room to grow yet.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00Skipper, Stefan Glinski, is on the trail of the Cornish sardine
0:17:00 > 0:17:04and, this evening, I've arranged for Sanjay and I to join him.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07How did you do that? Like, how did you manage to...
0:17:07 > 0:17:09Aww, little bit of a treat.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20We head off into the fading sun -
0:17:20 > 0:17:24the perfect time of day for catching sardines.
0:17:24 > 0:17:27- Sanjay the sardine spotter.- Yes.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29Have you seen any yet?
0:17:29 > 0:17:30SANJAY LAUGHS
0:17:35 > 0:17:38There's something happening here, that way.
0:17:42 > 0:17:43SHOUTING
0:17:47 > 0:17:49Suddenly, the skipper gives the order.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56- Could you turn the light off? - Turn it off.
0:17:56 > 0:17:58'And the net is set in darkness.'
0:18:06 > 0:18:09At the moment of fishing, we had to turn all of our camera lights off,
0:18:09 > 0:18:12so we couldn't really show you what was happening.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14The light would have frightened the fish away,
0:18:14 > 0:18:15but now they're in the net.
0:18:18 > 0:18:22I must be honest, I've never seen anything quite as dramatic,
0:18:22 > 0:18:24in terms of fishing, as this before.
0:18:24 > 0:18:28As it comes up, it reveals the world to us, a different world
0:18:28 > 0:18:31which we don't know what's inside the sea. Amazing.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38'But tonight, the sea isn't full of sardines.'
0:18:38 > 0:18:40What have we got, Stefan?
0:18:40 > 0:18:42Whitebait, small ones.
0:18:42 > 0:18:46Yep, so no sardines, but I guess that's the luck of fishing, is it?
0:18:46 > 0:18:47That's it.
0:18:52 > 0:18:56But fortunately, Sanjay has a recipe that'll work with whitebait too.
0:18:56 > 0:19:00A ceviche. The acid in the lime juice cooks the flesh,
0:19:00 > 0:19:03while coriander and chilli add bite.
0:19:03 > 0:19:05Think of all the beautiful things in life
0:19:05 > 0:19:08and just pop it in your mouth, that's it.
0:19:08 > 0:19:09OK.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14LAUGHS
0:19:14 > 0:19:16OK.
0:19:16 > 0:19:17OK...
0:19:19 > 0:19:21Urgh...
0:19:23 > 0:19:28Think of job satisfaction, think of world peace...
0:19:28 > 0:19:30Keep chewing.
0:19:30 > 0:19:32Keep chewing.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35D'you know what, mate, I have to say, I never thought I'd do that.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39Well done, Sanjay. We've had a good nights fishing, haven't we?
0:19:39 > 0:19:41Well done.
0:19:41 > 0:19:42Job done.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51Living in landlocked Gloucestershire,
0:19:51 > 0:19:55I don't think I'll be using local sardines to top my pizza.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57And with my limited cooking skills,
0:19:57 > 0:19:59I think that's probably a good thing!
0:19:59 > 0:20:01But what is classed as local food?
0:20:01 > 0:20:04It seems wide-open to interpretation.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07I'm hoping food writer Matthew Fort
0:20:07 > 0:20:10can help me sort out the wheat from the chaff.
0:20:10 > 0:20:15Matthew, you're a local man. What is local food?
0:20:15 > 0:20:19For me, I'd say about within 25 miles of where I live,
0:20:19 > 0:20:22or my local farmers' market.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26In some cases, local food is sourced more than 25 miles away
0:20:26 > 0:20:30as there's no legal definition of what local actually means.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33But shops aren't allowed to mislead the public
0:20:33 > 0:20:36and can be asked to justify their use of the term.
0:20:36 > 0:20:39But it's not always practical, is it, for people to buy local?
0:20:39 > 0:20:41No. It's OK for you and I
0:20:41 > 0:20:43because we live within probably walking distance,
0:20:43 > 0:20:47certainly driving distance, of a farmers' market or a farm shop.
0:20:47 > 0:20:49But if you live in the middle of the town,
0:20:49 > 0:20:51there aren't local producers on your doorstep.
0:20:51 > 0:20:53First of all, look online, shop online.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56Talk to your friends - they may know somewhere. Look at the local paper.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59I mean, there's always something going on somewhere.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02And why do you think it's so important?
0:21:02 > 0:21:04Well, because I think first of all,
0:21:04 > 0:21:05I want to know where my food comes from.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08I like to know a bit about the background.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11I like to know the producer and I think it works both ways.
0:21:11 > 0:21:13You can ask questions about provenance
0:21:13 > 0:21:17or how it's been treated, or use of pesticides or something else.
0:21:17 > 0:21:20But I think it's also important for the producer, you know,
0:21:20 > 0:21:22to get feedback from the customer
0:21:22 > 0:21:24so they can also develop their business.
0:21:24 > 0:21:28- I'd better get some shopping done. - Well, let me give you a basket, sir.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33That's the side salad and tomato sauce sorted
0:21:33 > 0:21:36for my "Taste of Gloucestershire" pizza.
0:21:36 > 0:21:39But Katie found herself making a most unexpected local delicacy
0:21:39 > 0:21:41when she was up in East Yorkshire.
0:21:42 > 0:21:46When you think of Yorkshire and food, what springs to mind?
0:21:46 > 0:21:49Crispy, light Yorkshire puddings and roast beef?
0:21:49 > 0:21:52Pikelets or parkin and Wensleydale cheese?
0:21:52 > 0:21:57Well, I've got a new one for you. How about Yorkshire sushi?
0:21:59 > 0:22:03I'm meeting a coastal forager and bushcraft expert who's determined to
0:22:03 > 0:22:07introduce me to a taste of the Far East, Yorkshire style,
0:22:07 > 0:22:09using only nature's larder.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13We're an island nation and we're surrounded by seaweed and yet
0:22:13 > 0:22:16we don't make any use of it at all, really.
0:22:16 > 0:22:17So what's this, here?
0:22:17 > 0:22:20Here we've got a couple of different things
0:22:20 > 0:22:24we're going to use today. This is your classic sushi seaweed.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27We call it laver in this country, but it's called nori.
0:22:27 > 0:22:32It's a very similar seaweed in Japan. We can eat that raw.
0:22:32 > 0:22:35You don't need to do anything to it, it doesn't need to be cooked.
0:22:35 > 0:22:38Obviously, you've got to be a bit worried about the water quality.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42So, if there was some sort of sewage outflow right next to us, I probably
0:22:42 > 0:22:46wouldn't be eating it and taking it but basically, it's washed every day.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49Provided we're taking it from here at the coast, it's great.
0:22:49 > 0:22:51But not everything's coming from here,
0:22:51 > 0:22:54so I'm going to have to go off and get some stuff for you.
0:22:54 > 0:22:56I need grain, we definitely need grain.
0:22:56 > 0:22:58That's the big hurdle at the moment.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01If you can get me some seafood of some sort, that would be good.
0:23:01 > 0:23:02Seafood and grains, OK.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- Seafood and grains. I'll get the rest.- OK, I'll go and get that.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07You find some nice, tasty treats here and I'll see you
0:23:07 > 0:23:09- back in time for dinner.- Brilliant.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13Whilst Chris uses his expert knowledge to pick
0:23:13 > 0:23:17some tasty treasures from the shore, I'm heading down the coast to get
0:23:17 > 0:23:20some fresh crab from a local fisherman in Bridlington -
0:23:20 > 0:23:23Britain's largest shell fishing port,
0:23:23 > 0:23:25with a multi-million-pound export market.
0:23:28 > 0:23:31Ken, why is this stretch of coastline so good for shellfish?
0:23:31 > 0:23:33Well, it's got good ground characteristics.
0:23:33 > 0:23:36We've got the clay and the boulders to the south
0:23:36 > 0:23:39and the chalk and the rock to the north.
0:23:39 > 0:23:41And that's the kind of landscape they like, the lobsters and crabs?
0:23:41 > 0:23:44Yeah, yeah, that's the type of ground they like.
0:23:44 > 0:23:46And where are you sending them all?
0:23:46 > 0:23:49Predominantly they go to Spain and France.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52The majority of the catch from Bridlington ends up
0:23:52 > 0:23:55in restaurants and markets all over Europe,
0:23:55 > 0:23:57but can our locally sourced sushi
0:23:57 > 0:24:00inspire people here to eat more shellfish?
0:24:02 > 0:24:05So, that's the fish sorted, but what about the grain?
0:24:05 > 0:24:08We'd be hard-pressed to forage any rice here in the Yorkshire Wolds,
0:24:08 > 0:24:13but there is a new crop being grown here that may do just the job.
0:24:13 > 0:24:17Soon, these fields will be filled with barley - naked barley.
0:24:18 > 0:24:22Tim's one of the first farmers in the country to experiment
0:24:22 > 0:24:25with naked barley, a new strain of an ancient crop.
0:24:25 > 0:24:27But how is it different to regular barley?
0:24:27 > 0:24:29Naked barley, basically,
0:24:29 > 0:24:32is barley that doesn't have a skin or a coat.
0:24:32 > 0:24:35You can see, compared to the other barley,
0:24:35 > 0:24:38the difference in colour and texture.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41We're growing it because it has milling potential.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44What do you reckon on this Yorkshire sushi we're trying?
0:24:44 > 0:24:46Do you think that this naked barley is going to be
0:24:46 > 0:24:48a good substitute for rice? What do you reckon?
0:24:48 > 0:24:53Well, in theory, because it's naked, it doesn't have a husk
0:24:53 > 0:24:55so it is a ready-pearl barley.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58It should absorb the liquid
0:24:58 > 0:25:01and swell up in the same way pearl barley should.
0:25:01 > 0:25:07Whether it's a replacement for sushi rice or not, I don't know.
0:25:07 > 0:25:10- It's worthwhile giving it a go. - Give it a go!- Give it a go.- OK.
0:25:12 > 0:25:16I've done my hunter-gatherer bit, but what has Chris foraged?
0:25:16 > 0:25:20There's this really interesting plant, it's called alexanders.
0:25:20 > 0:25:21It just grows on the coast
0:25:21 > 0:25:24and you get it about up to three miles inland.
0:25:24 > 0:25:25And just eat this now, just like this?
0:25:25 > 0:25:28You just have a little nibble on that.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30Mmm! A bit like celery.
0:25:30 > 0:25:31Yeah, really like celery,
0:25:31 > 0:25:34- but a little bit of parsley in there as well.- Is it safe to eat it?
0:25:34 > 0:25:36Yeah, it's absolutely safe to eat it.
0:25:36 > 0:25:39You have to be very, very sure of all of your plant identification
0:25:39 > 0:25:41before you pick anything and eat it.
0:25:41 > 0:25:45OK, I trust Chris not to poison me, but is our foraging legal?
0:25:45 > 0:25:49The Theft Act actually says that you can take fruit, foliage,
0:25:49 > 0:25:52fungi and flowers without it constituting theft.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55If you start to dig roots up, then it becomes a problem.
0:25:55 > 0:25:58The other thing is that you have to check the local bylaws.
0:25:58 > 0:26:02Certain areas will have laws which will ban you taking anything -
0:26:02 > 0:26:03Epping Forest is one of them.
0:26:03 > 0:26:05- But we're OK here?- We're OK here.
0:26:05 > 0:26:08- Ooh!- Right, here we go. - What's this?
0:26:08 > 0:26:10This is the last ingredient we were looking for.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13This is sorrel, common sorrel, this one.
0:26:13 > 0:26:16If you see here, a green leaf
0:26:16 > 0:26:19and it's got these two little lobes at the back, there.
0:26:19 > 0:26:20If you want to taste that...
0:26:24 > 0:26:28- Oh!- Really sharp, acid.- It's lovely. Ooh, that's really good!
0:26:28 > 0:26:29I really like that!
0:26:29 > 0:26:32'Well, this has been a much more liberating shop than the usual
0:26:32 > 0:26:34'dash through the aisles.'
0:26:34 > 0:26:38This is scurvy grass, OK? Strange name.
0:26:38 > 0:26:40It's actually an anti-scorbutic,
0:26:40 > 0:26:44so it was used to stave off scurvy by people who took it to sea.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46- It might be a bit hot.- Oh, it's got quite a... Yeah!- A real kick.
0:26:46 > 0:26:48That's what we're going to make the wasabi out of.
0:26:48 > 0:26:52The scurvy leaf gets ground with a bit of oil and salt
0:26:52 > 0:26:55to make a truly Yorkshire hot wasabi-style paste.
0:26:55 > 0:26:59Use the muscles. You can do better than that!
0:26:59 > 0:27:02'Chris has brought along his Yorkshire-style soy
0:27:02 > 0:27:05'of foraged mushroom and seaweed sauce.'
0:27:05 > 0:27:06That's really good.
0:27:06 > 0:27:07'Last thing, the laver.
0:27:07 > 0:27:11'Chris has blitzed the seaweed and pressed it into sheets.'
0:27:11 > 0:27:14You make it like you would make paper, handmade paper.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16So, just bash it, or overlap it and bash it?
0:27:16 > 0:27:18It's with a silk screen,
0:27:18 > 0:27:22so we scoop it out so it's a nice fine layer, and then it's pressed.
0:27:22 > 0:27:24'So, now it's the moment of truth.
0:27:24 > 0:27:27'Can Chris really make high-end sushi
0:27:27 > 0:27:29'from the fruits of the Yorkshire Wolds?'
0:27:38 > 0:27:40It all looks very promising,
0:27:40 > 0:27:43but does it make Japanese gold standards?
0:27:43 > 0:27:46Time to say moshi moshi to a sushi chef trained in Japan,
0:27:46 > 0:27:49who I thought could give a verdict on our Yorkshire sushi.
0:27:49 > 0:27:52I think the flavour's actually very, very good.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55I think the soy complements it great.
0:27:55 > 0:27:57Your home-made mushroom soy, I think was fantastic.
0:27:57 > 0:28:00The green wasabi, slightly less strong than the traditional wasabi
0:28:00 > 0:28:03we use in today's sushi. I think it all comes together very nicely.
0:28:03 > 0:28:06That's quite good, isn't it? Quite pleased with that?
0:28:06 > 0:28:08- I'm chuffed with that. - Good little review there.
0:28:08 > 0:28:11- Really good.- Move over Yorkshire pudding, that's what we say.
0:28:11 > 0:28:13There is a new dish on the menu, Yorkshire sushi.
0:28:13 > 0:28:15- Thank you very much. - It's a pleasure.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17Really good, Chris, thank you.
0:28:25 > 0:28:28'I'm on home turf today in Gloucestershire,
0:28:28 > 0:28:31'exploring the wealth of local produce on offer.
0:28:31 > 0:28:34'My next stop is a farmer who embraced the market for local food
0:28:34 > 0:28:36'when he started marketing his own beef.'
0:28:36 > 0:28:38- Hi, Jimmy.- Hello, Adam, nice to see you.- And you.
0:28:38 > 0:28:40'And today, he's making meatballs.'
0:28:40 > 0:28:42Go on, then, how do we make a meatball?
0:28:42 > 0:28:47First of all, we've got some lovely Hereford beef mince
0:28:47 > 0:28:48and I need you to add the onions.
0:28:48 > 0:28:50Yeah. So, I just chuck that in, is it?
0:28:50 > 0:28:53Chuck it in. That's it, all in together.
0:28:53 > 0:28:56And so you're selling direct to the customer, then?
0:28:56 > 0:28:57Yes, we are, yes.
0:28:57 > 0:29:01Beef was having a very hard time, with foot-and-mouth and things,
0:29:01 > 0:29:05and we needed to try and add value to what we were producing,
0:29:05 > 0:29:09so I decided to start selling locally and direct to customers.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12- Now we need to weigh it out.- OK...
0:29:12 > 0:29:1520 gram sizes - this will test your guesstimation.
0:29:15 > 0:29:18- It will.- That's far too big.- Is it?
0:29:21 > 0:29:24'Once I get my eye in, there's no stopping me.'
0:29:24 > 0:29:27How about meatballs on pizza, do you think that would work?
0:29:27 > 0:29:30I think that's a jolly good idea. There you go, sir.
0:29:30 > 0:29:34- Perfect, thank you very, very much. I appreciate that.- Brilliant.
0:29:34 > 0:29:35'That'll beef up my pizza a treat.
0:29:35 > 0:29:38'We're very lucky here in Gloucestershire,
0:29:38 > 0:29:41'there's so much great food being produced.
0:29:41 > 0:29:43'In fact, you could say it's on tap.'
0:29:43 > 0:29:45How cool is this? Milk from a vending machine.
0:29:45 > 0:29:48The farm's just up the road, where it's got a small herd of Guernseys.
0:29:48 > 0:29:53You even get your own container, or one of these lovely bottles...
0:30:00 > 0:30:01Press the button...
0:30:01 > 0:30:03out comes the milk.
0:30:06 > 0:30:08Look at that, heavenly!
0:30:10 > 0:30:12You can't get more fresh or local than that,
0:30:12 > 0:30:14but it's not milk I'm after now.
0:30:14 > 0:30:16Well, not in this form.
0:30:16 > 0:30:20Every pizza needs a cheese, so I'm meeting Roger Crudge,
0:30:20 > 0:30:24who churns up his local variety with a Mediterranean twist
0:30:24 > 0:30:26just seven miles away from my farm.
0:30:26 > 0:30:27I'm all washed and suited up.
0:30:27 > 0:30:31OK, well, I'll show you what I want to do, first one.
0:30:31 > 0:30:33So, I take it in the middle, across,
0:30:33 > 0:30:38and then I try and make another two on either side.
0:30:38 > 0:30:41So, the equivalent of sort of six even slices?
0:30:41 > 0:30:43Yeah, about a thumb-width.
0:30:44 > 0:30:47- So, if you want to do that one, Adam?- OK, watch me mess this up.
0:30:47 > 0:30:51- About there, about a thumb's width. - About a thumb's width, yeah.
0:30:53 > 0:30:54Perfect.
0:30:54 > 0:30:58The next stage is a cooking process which turns the wobbly little pots
0:30:58 > 0:31:00into halloumi-style cheese,
0:31:00 > 0:31:04with its characteristic rubbery texture and squeakiness.
0:31:04 > 0:31:07Whilst they cook, Roger shows me some of his other cheeses,
0:31:07 > 0:31:09made from local milk.
0:31:09 > 0:31:10Right then, Adam.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14Whilst that's cooking, this is the rest of the cheeses.
0:31:14 > 0:31:16These are some I made a little earlier.
0:31:16 > 0:31:20So, here we've got sheep's cheeses - that's the Sarsden.
0:31:20 > 0:31:24The cow cheese, this is made with Jersey cows' milk.
0:31:24 > 0:31:26And here, this is goat's milk.
0:31:26 > 0:31:28And how did you decide what sort of cheese to make?
0:31:28 > 0:31:30I mean, what influenced you?
0:31:30 > 0:31:32I started making cheeses when I was farming down in Devon
0:31:32 > 0:31:35and I was surrounded by all these guys making cheddar.
0:31:35 > 0:31:38There was no way that a newcomer
0:31:38 > 0:31:41could come into the market with a cheddar, so I thought,
0:31:41 > 0:31:45"Right, I love skiing, we love the cheeses we eat when we're out there,
0:31:45 > 0:31:48"so why not make cheeses influenced by Alpine cheese?"
0:31:48 > 0:31:52And also it's clever, because I have to do research every winter!
0:31:52 > 0:31:54- Go out and try it!- Yeah, I have to try it.- Absolutely!
0:31:54 > 0:31:56Great. Well, thank you very much.
0:31:56 > 0:31:58- Well, if I can take a little bit of halloumi away?- Yeah.
0:31:58 > 0:32:01- That'll make the pizza. - Yeah, brilliant.- Good.
0:32:02 > 0:32:05Well, I'd better get this stuff home and start cooking.
0:32:05 > 0:32:07But first, here's what's coming up
0:32:07 > 0:32:10on the rest of tonight's programme...
0:32:10 > 0:32:14Julia's on home turf in search of Leicestershire's favourite flavours.
0:32:14 > 0:32:18Everything is coated in flour.
0:32:18 > 0:32:20Including me, now!
0:32:21 > 0:32:23Matt gets experimental with ice cream...
0:32:24 > 0:32:28Tell you what, that says "British seaside town" to me.
0:32:28 > 0:32:31And we'll have the full weather forecast for the week ahead.
0:32:38 > 0:32:41Now, I admit my taste buds are pretty tame,
0:32:41 > 0:32:42but I had to man up last summer
0:32:42 > 0:32:45when I headed to the heart of the Norfolk countryside
0:32:45 > 0:32:48to meet a man who's cooking up a tropical storm.
0:32:51 > 0:32:54Glyn Kirpalani is the hottest thing to come out of Norfolk
0:32:54 > 0:32:56since English mustard.
0:32:56 > 0:33:00He makes chilli sauce, and it's seriously hot!
0:33:00 > 0:33:01I knew this would happen!
0:33:01 > 0:33:04Of all the people to go and check out some chillies, it had to be me!
0:33:04 > 0:33:08I'm not a great man for spice. When I go for curry, I have an omelette.
0:33:08 > 0:33:12Not only does he make his own sauce, he grows his own chillies.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15- Glyn, hi.- Hi, Adam. - Good to see you.- Nice to meet you.
0:33:15 > 0:33:17Why chillies?
0:33:17 > 0:33:20My father's from Trinidad and he used to give us his own version
0:33:20 > 0:33:25of hot sauce every weekend with the Sunday roast, or a Caribbean curry
0:33:25 > 0:33:27and we got addicted.
0:33:27 > 0:33:31Well, in my family the closest we got to hot sauce was gravy,
0:33:31 > 0:33:34so I'm not a great one for heat.
0:33:34 > 0:33:37Can you tell the grade from mild through to very hot?
0:33:37 > 0:33:40Well, there is a Scoville scale that scientists have devised
0:33:40 > 0:33:42to measure the heat of chillies.
0:33:42 > 0:33:44It varies from 0 to 16 million,
0:33:44 > 0:33:48which is chemically refined chilli oil.
0:33:48 > 0:33:51Crikey! There's one here, it says, "police pepper spray"?
0:33:51 > 0:33:54- Yes, yes.- My word!- Yeah, the bulk of my sauces are made with
0:33:54 > 0:33:55Scotch bonnet chilli peppers,
0:33:55 > 0:33:58which are commonly grown in the Caribbean and Africa.
0:33:58 > 0:34:01- They're pretty hot, very hot. - Still edible?
0:34:01 > 0:34:04Yeah, you wouldn't eat it raw like an apple!
0:34:04 > 0:34:06ADAM LAUGHS
0:34:06 > 0:34:07And why did it all come about?
0:34:07 > 0:34:10I mean, it seems ridiculous eating something that's so hot.
0:34:10 > 0:34:12How did people introduce chillies to food?
0:34:12 > 0:34:16In the days of slavery, African slavery in the Caribbean,
0:34:16 > 0:34:19the slaves weren't given the best of scraps of meat and what have you
0:34:19 > 0:34:21by the plantation owners.
0:34:21 > 0:34:25They used to flavour their food with hot spices, hot chillies.
0:34:25 > 0:34:26So, consequently,
0:34:26 > 0:34:29they started developing hot sauces using locally-available
0:34:29 > 0:34:32Scotch bonnet Caribbean peppers, and also English mustards,
0:34:32 > 0:34:35which the plantation owners would take out with them from England -
0:34:35 > 0:34:37often made in Norfolk - and so I've brought it back now.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40Incredible, isn't it? Amazing history.
0:34:40 > 0:34:42Yes, yes, there is history to it.
0:34:42 > 0:34:45Glyn has recently launched a community growing scheme.
0:34:45 > 0:34:48He sells his seedlings to growers with more space than him
0:34:48 > 0:34:52and he then buys back the fruits of their labour to make his sauce.
0:34:53 > 0:34:54And where are these going?
0:34:54 > 0:34:56These two trays have to go to Holkham Hall,
0:34:56 > 0:34:58which is a lovely old estate,
0:34:58 > 0:35:01and they're going to grow them for me in their ancient orangeries.
0:35:01 > 0:35:03- Wonderful. - Yeah, yeah, but before they go,
0:35:03 > 0:35:06I want you to taste my hot sauce and show what kind of man you are.
0:35:06 > 0:35:09Well, I struggle with mashed potato with too much black pepper on it,
0:35:09 > 0:35:11so goodness knows what your sauce is going to do to me!
0:35:11 > 0:35:14But I'll toughen up, I'm going to give it a go.
0:35:14 > 0:35:17So, Glyn wants me to try his chilli sauce.
0:35:17 > 0:35:20All I need now is some poor, unsuspecting individual
0:35:20 > 0:35:21to share my pain.
0:35:22 > 0:35:24And I think I know just the person...
0:35:26 > 0:35:29- There's the lovely Ellie Harrison... - Adam Henson!- How are you? All right?
0:35:29 > 0:35:32- All right, you? What's all this? - Well, this is the chilli challenge.
0:35:32 > 0:35:35- Now, Glyn is Mr Chilli of Norfolk. - Hi.- Hiya.
0:35:35 > 0:35:38He makes these amazing chilli sauces and I'm a complete wuss
0:35:38 > 0:35:41when it comes to hot things and, you know, I'm an omelette boy.
0:35:41 > 0:35:43So I needed a bit of support. How about you, you like hot food?
0:35:43 > 0:35:45I'm a korma girl, that's as far as it goes.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47I've got the most pathetic palate.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50- Oh, dear.- So, we're going to have a bit of a taste-off here.- Right...
0:35:50 > 0:35:53- A bit of a chilli challenge.- OK. - There we go, ladies first.
0:35:53 > 0:35:55This is our very hot sauce.
0:35:55 > 0:35:58- OK, so nibble away, I say!- Do you? - There it is.
0:36:00 > 0:36:04- I've just gone for mainly biscuit. - Look at that! What a total cheat!
0:36:04 > 0:36:08- All biscuit. Do it again, come on. Ooh! OHH!- Is that hot already?- Yeah.
0:36:08 > 0:36:09There's some tissues there,
0:36:09 > 0:36:12if you want to bathe your blisters that have just formed on your lip.
0:36:12 > 0:36:14I've got a sweaty top lip - very elegant!
0:36:15 > 0:36:17Come on, keep it coming.
0:36:17 > 0:36:20THEY LAUGH
0:36:20 > 0:36:22He's a wuss!
0:36:24 > 0:36:25Caribbean chillis wouldn't be
0:36:25 > 0:36:28the first thing you associate with Norfolk.
0:36:29 > 0:36:33But mention Melton Mowbray, and two things instantly spring to mind...
0:36:35 > 0:36:40Julia found out more on a truly local food trail in her home county.
0:36:40 > 0:36:44I'm in a place that claims to be the rural capital of food -
0:36:44 > 0:36:46quite a bold statement.
0:36:46 > 0:36:49Melton Mowbray, an area that's earned the title thanks to
0:36:49 > 0:36:52its two gastronomic greats - pork pies
0:36:52 > 0:36:55and oh, so stinky Stilton cheese.
0:36:55 > 0:36:58And today, I'll be creating the perfect local picnic
0:36:58 > 0:37:01as I explore the area's food heritage.
0:37:01 > 0:37:04But its foodie accolades owe a lot to its farming past,
0:37:04 > 0:37:07as this Ministry of Information film from the 1940s shows.
0:37:07 > 0:37:10'The reason's in the land.
0:37:10 > 0:37:13'It was too heavy to plough in the old days,
0:37:13 > 0:37:17'too heavy, that is, for anything less than a four-horse team.
0:37:18 > 0:37:21'But, mind you, it does make very good milk
0:37:22 > 0:37:25'and the best cheese in the world...
0:37:25 > 0:37:26'Stilton cheese.'
0:37:29 > 0:37:33Stilton is still very much at the heart of the community.
0:37:33 > 0:37:35A quick costume change, and I'm getting stuck in
0:37:35 > 0:37:37at one of only six dairies in the world
0:37:37 > 0:37:40licensed to make bona fide Stilton cheese
0:37:40 > 0:37:43just as they have been for the past 150 years.
0:37:43 > 0:37:46Although I'm feeling a bit more washerwoman than dairy maid!
0:37:48 > 0:37:51- Hi, Andrew.- Morning. - How are you?- All right, thank you.
0:37:51 > 0:37:55- So, what do you do up here, then? - We're just turning the cheese.
0:37:55 > 0:37:57What does it do in terms of the texture of the cheese,
0:37:57 > 0:37:58and the blue as well?
0:37:58 > 0:38:02It keeps the shape, it keeps the fats level in the cheese,
0:38:02 > 0:38:05helps to keep them nice and even along the tops.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08And how many of these do you turn a day?
0:38:08 > 0:38:12Basically, it is 4 1/2 tons per person per day.
0:38:12 > 0:38:14- 4 1/2 tons a day?- A day.
0:38:14 > 0:38:16That's an incredible number.
0:38:17 > 0:38:22Authentic Stilton can only be made in Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire
0:38:22 > 0:38:26and Derbyshire and this is the smallest dairy licensed to do so.
0:38:26 > 0:38:30I have to admit, I'm not a fan, but the rest of the world definitely is.
0:38:30 > 0:38:32This dairy export around 80% of what they make
0:38:32 > 0:38:36to places like Australia, America and Asia.
0:38:36 > 0:38:41What a wonderfully proper, old-fashioned traditional dairy.
0:38:41 > 0:38:43Lovely.
0:38:45 > 0:38:50Producers in Melton have always been resourceful - nothing went to waste.
0:38:50 > 0:38:54'And what's left of what's used for cheese is used for pigs.
0:38:55 > 0:38:58'Plenty of whey for the pigs.
0:38:58 > 0:39:00'The fat of the land, and plenty left over.
0:39:00 > 0:39:05'Fine, fat pigs and fine, fat cattle, too,
0:39:05 > 0:39:07'feeding on the fattest grass in Britain.'
0:39:09 > 0:39:12And what do you do when you've got too many fine, fat pigs?
0:39:12 > 0:39:16You make a pork pie, of course. It IS Melton Mowbray!
0:39:16 > 0:39:17That's a lot of pies.
0:39:17 > 0:39:20Not only were the pigs fattened up on the leftovers
0:39:20 > 0:39:24from the cheese-making, they also ate the spoils from local windmills.
0:39:25 > 0:39:27Miller Nigel Moon and his mother, Ruth,
0:39:27 > 0:39:31keep the area's foodie heritage going in the most traditional of ways.
0:39:32 > 0:39:36Holy badger! What's going on above us, around us?
0:39:36 > 0:39:39Basically, this floor is what's known as the dressing floor.
0:39:39 > 0:39:43And there is white powder everywhere. I mean, on every single...
0:39:43 > 0:39:48Look at that. Everything is coated in flour.
0:39:49 > 0:39:51Including me, now.
0:39:58 > 0:40:01- There you are, my dear. - Thank you very much. Thanks, Nigel.
0:40:01 > 0:40:03Yes, cheers.
0:40:03 > 0:40:05As well as the wheat growing above ground,
0:40:05 > 0:40:09there are also riches beneath - ironstone.
0:40:09 > 0:40:12Farmers and quarrymen often worked side-by-side to reap
0:40:12 > 0:40:15the rewards that the land had to offer.
0:40:15 > 0:40:19This little building used to be a power station that fuelled
0:40:19 > 0:40:20the ironstone quarrying.
0:40:20 > 0:40:24These days, it fuels the county with gastro goodies.
0:40:26 > 0:40:30I'm meeting fourth-generation baker Julian Carter, to make a local loaf
0:40:30 > 0:40:32using flour from Nigel's windmill
0:40:32 > 0:40:35and beer yeast from the local brewery.
0:40:37 > 0:40:40- How old do you think the recipe is? - Oh, it goes back a long, long way.
0:40:40 > 0:40:44Beer yeast... Flour was obviously always milled in the local area,
0:40:44 > 0:40:46and then beer yeast was...
0:40:46 > 0:40:49Always breweries next to bakeries in the old days, so you used to get
0:40:49 > 0:40:52your beer yeast from your brewery and make your bread straight away.
0:40:52 > 0:40:55Once mixed, the dough has to prove, but in true TV style,
0:40:55 > 0:40:58Julian has some he prepared earlier.
0:40:58 > 0:41:02- There we go.- Lovely, that's better. You can see, this has been kneaded.
0:41:02 > 0:41:04Obviously, this hasn't been kneaded yet.
0:41:04 > 0:41:06We rest this for 20 minutes, knead it into a dough
0:41:06 > 0:41:08then allow that to double in size.
0:41:08 > 0:41:11You can see the big pockets of gas that have come up in the dough.
0:41:11 > 0:41:14- The dough's got a lovely stretch to it.- And it's so light as well.
0:41:14 > 0:41:17- It is. What you're looking for is a nice, light dough.- Just wonderful.
0:41:17 > 0:41:21After kneading and proving for a second time,
0:41:21 > 0:41:24the loaves go into the wood-fired oven for 30 minutes.
0:41:24 > 0:41:27- If you push that towards the centre of the oven...- Yeah.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29Brilliant.
0:41:29 > 0:41:34From farm to mill to bakery, this bread is truly local.
0:41:35 > 0:41:37- There you go.- Thanks, Julian.
0:41:38 > 0:41:42A true taste of Julia's home county.
0:41:42 > 0:41:45Now time to see if I can do my stomping ground justice
0:41:45 > 0:41:47with the produce I've picked up today.
0:41:47 > 0:41:50Well, I've roped in Ella, my daughter here, to help me
0:41:50 > 0:41:52cook this pizza. She's the cook in the family.
0:41:52 > 0:41:54Now, the first thing are these meatballs.
0:41:54 > 0:41:57- What do you reckon to them?- A bit garlicky.- Yeah, they are a bit.
0:41:57 > 0:42:01You fry them off over there. I'll start thinking about the mix.
0:42:04 > 0:42:06Quite a bit.
0:42:06 > 0:42:10'We're making a simple bread dough with our fine-grade flour, a bit
0:42:10 > 0:42:12'of sugar, salt, yeast and some rapeseed oil
0:42:12 > 0:42:14'from a farm down the road.'
0:42:16 > 0:42:20- Don't we have to do it IN the bowl? - Are you? Do you? I don't know.
0:42:20 > 0:42:22Oh, gosh.
0:42:22 > 0:42:24- Tired?- A bit. Your go.
0:42:24 > 0:42:26It's good for your biceps.
0:42:26 > 0:42:28For your guns.
0:42:28 > 0:42:30I think you should stick to the farming.
0:42:30 > 0:42:36'I get less grief off the farm boys. Now for a bit of magic.'
0:42:36 > 0:42:39Is that what they do? Have you seen them do it? Like that. It's working.
0:42:39 > 0:42:43- It's working.- Is it?- Yeah. Do you want to try it?- No, I'll drop it.
0:42:43 > 0:42:45'Time to build this baby.
0:42:45 > 0:42:48'A bit of sauce, our Gloucestershire take on halloumi,
0:42:48 > 0:42:52'and the local meatballs. I reckon we've got ourselves a feast.'
0:42:52 > 0:42:54Well, there we go. I think that's wonderful.
0:42:54 > 0:42:57I reckon people will be queueing up for Cotswold pizza.
0:42:57 > 0:43:01Last summer, Ellie was in Cromer, where the people really can't get
0:43:01 > 0:43:03enough of their most famous local food.
0:43:09 > 0:43:13Cromer crab, the first thing that springs to mind at the sheer
0:43:13 > 0:43:15mention of this town.
0:43:15 > 0:43:17Yeah!
0:43:17 > 0:43:20You're probably thinking of something much bigger
0:43:20 > 0:43:22and juicier than this particular crab,
0:43:22 > 0:43:24but it's taken me so long to get it,
0:43:24 > 0:43:26I'm not putting it back just yet.
0:43:29 > 0:43:32Everywhere you look, there are signs that this is a mecca for crab lovers,
0:43:32 > 0:43:37and Cromer crustaceans are thought to be some of the very best.
0:43:37 > 0:43:39Traditionally, summer's the time to catch them.
0:43:43 > 0:43:44But there's a problem.
0:43:44 > 0:43:47Just as in farming, the average age of a fisherman
0:43:47 > 0:43:49is getting older and older.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56There's one lad, though, who's bucking the trend.
0:43:56 > 0:44:00David Hare is only 22. He started fishing in his teens.
0:44:00 > 0:44:01OK, David!
0:44:03 > 0:44:06David has been going out fishing since he was 14 years old,
0:44:06 > 0:44:09and the draw of these waters is still strong.
0:44:09 > 0:44:13I was quite excited the first time. Literally, I couldn't sleep.
0:44:13 > 0:44:16I was itching, ready to go. "What's it going to be like?"
0:44:16 > 0:44:17And stuff like that.
0:44:17 > 0:44:20Do you know many other people your age doing this kind of thing?
0:44:20 > 0:44:22- Not many. Two, three.- Why is that?
0:44:22 > 0:44:24Why don't young people want to get into this?
0:44:24 > 0:44:28Obviously, the 3am starts, and weekends -
0:44:28 > 0:44:30they want to go out clubbing, stuff like that.
0:44:30 > 0:44:32So you don't mind the 3am starts, then?
0:44:32 > 0:44:34All I think is how much money I'm going to have
0:44:34 > 0:44:36left in my wallet after it.
0:44:36 > 0:44:37SHE LAUGHS
0:44:37 > 0:44:41And it's not long before we reach our first pots.
0:44:41 > 0:44:42Here we go.
0:44:45 > 0:44:49Eighth-generation fisherman John Davies has been fishing the Cromer
0:44:49 > 0:44:53coast for more than 30 years, and he taught David everything he knows.
0:44:53 > 0:44:56This is looking quite a good haul, is it?
0:44:56 > 0:44:58- Well, they can be deceiving, trust me.- Oh, really?
0:44:58 > 0:45:00This time of year, they're now moulting.
0:45:00 > 0:45:03So although the shell is big, there won't be much meat in it?
0:45:03 > 0:45:04That'll be completely empty.
0:45:04 > 0:45:07He'll be back for a free meal again tomorrow.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10- That one might just about be long enough. Which that is.- That is.
0:45:10 > 0:45:11It just squeezes in there.
0:45:13 > 0:45:16Here we go with the next one. Blimey.
0:45:16 > 0:45:20- How's David getting on, then? - Yeah, he's doing OK.
0:45:20 > 0:45:24- He's a good lad. A very rare find nowadays.- Yeah, that's it.
0:45:24 > 0:45:26So what about the future of the crab,
0:45:26 > 0:45:27which is so important for Cromer?
0:45:27 > 0:45:30Well, yes, it is very important to Cromer, not just as a business
0:45:30 > 0:45:34but as a tourist attraction and everything else. A lot of people...
0:45:34 > 0:45:37"We'll go to Cromer over the weekend," take a crab home for tea,
0:45:37 > 0:45:38or something.
0:45:38 > 0:45:40My mum said, "Come back with some crabs, when she found out
0:45:40 > 0:45:43- I was coming here.- Good on your mum!
0:45:43 > 0:45:45'But it's not just crabs we're after.'
0:45:45 > 0:45:47- That's a keeper.- Nice lobster. - Lovely.
0:45:47 > 0:45:50As we head for dry land, the crew set the pots
0:45:50 > 0:45:53so they can do the same again tomorrow.
0:45:55 > 0:45:57Here we go.
0:45:57 > 0:45:58Oof!
0:46:00 > 0:46:03Waiting to meet me back on terra firma is Michelin-starred
0:46:03 > 0:46:08local chef Galton Blackiston. He's going to cook us up a seafood feast.
0:46:10 > 0:46:13We've got Galton here for you, John. Ready for your crabs and lobsters.
0:46:13 > 0:46:16- How are you doing, my man? - I'm all right. You?- Yeah, good.
0:46:16 > 0:46:19There's only two or three lobsters there, and a box full of crabs.
0:46:19 > 0:46:21And as a chef, what makes the Cromer crab so special?
0:46:21 > 0:46:25I think the smaller, Cromer crab are far sweeter
0:46:25 > 0:46:29and far more intense a flavour than the big South West crab.
0:46:29 > 0:46:33- I'll sort you a couple of nice female crabs there.- Ah, perfect.
0:46:33 > 0:46:36- Just be a little bit careful.- Yeah, cos I'll give you the crabs to hold.
0:46:36 > 0:46:39- They don't like the sunshine.- Yeah. - That's great. Thanks, John. Cheers.
0:46:39 > 0:46:42- OK, good to see you. - Brilliant, thank you. Thank you.
0:46:47 > 0:46:52- OK.- Crab is cooked.- Crab is cooked, hopefully.- Love this beach kitchen.
0:46:52 > 0:46:55- This is hilarious. - This is all right, isn't it?
0:46:55 > 0:46:59This is what you want out of here, is all this brown meat.
0:47:00 > 0:47:04So that's the brown body meat. Now for the white from the claws.
0:47:04 > 0:47:06A mallet's a good implement to use.
0:47:06 > 0:47:08What sort of thing would you serve crab with?
0:47:08 > 0:47:11Crab is best served very simply.
0:47:11 > 0:47:13I don't want to mess about with it too much.
0:47:13 > 0:47:17I want you to taste the actual succulent sweetness of the crab.
0:47:17 > 0:47:20- Yeah.- I'm a great advocate in simplicity is best,
0:47:20 > 0:47:23and when you've got something that literally has been caught
0:47:23 > 0:47:27- out there...- But hours ago.- ..but hours ago, why do you want to...
0:47:27 > 0:47:30you know, to completely mask it?
0:47:30 > 0:47:33- Right. Now...- This is the cheffy serving bit.
0:47:33 > 0:47:37- Well, I'm not going to make it too cheffy.- OK.- I will, honestly...
0:47:37 > 0:47:39I wouldn't play about with the white crab meat at all.
0:47:39 > 0:47:42I would literally just pop it on a plate.
0:47:42 > 0:47:45The brown is only just cooked, but that's quite nice.
0:47:46 > 0:47:47A classic dish -
0:47:47 > 0:47:53unadulterated crab meat served with a simple salsa and fresh, warm bread.
0:47:53 > 0:47:57- How about that?- Something so simple like that actually, in my opinion,
0:47:57 > 0:47:59works so well.
0:47:59 > 0:48:03That looks amazing. I would happily go through that. Lovely.
0:48:05 > 0:48:08Also on the menu, Cromer lobster fresh from the sea
0:48:08 > 0:48:09and onto the plate,
0:48:11 > 0:48:15with a simple accompaniment of minted new potatoes, mangetout,
0:48:15 > 0:48:19green beans and samphire.
0:48:20 > 0:48:24And after a day's fishing, exploring and cooking, I can't wait to tuck in.
0:48:26 > 0:48:29- Here we go, lobster. - Here you go, lobster. Local lobster.
0:48:30 > 0:48:31Mmm.
0:48:33 > 0:48:35- Wow.- It is REALLY nice.
0:48:35 > 0:48:37SHE LAUGHS
0:48:37 > 0:48:39- I used to come on holiday around here, you know.- Did you?
0:48:39 > 0:48:43- Yeah, every year as a kid.- Oh, wow. - Not something as elegant as this.
0:48:43 > 0:48:45A pint of prawns, usually, that we had to shell ourselves.
0:48:45 > 0:48:46Equally lovely.
0:48:53 > 0:48:55Well, in a moment, we'll be tasting some of
0:48:55 > 0:48:59mine and Ella's pizza, a celebration of local produce.
0:48:59 > 0:49:02But first, here's the Countryfile forecast for the week ahead.
0:51:50 > 0:51:57.
0:52:07 > 0:52:09In this special edition of Countryfile,
0:52:09 > 0:52:13we're looking back at some of our favourite foodie films.
0:52:13 > 0:52:17I'm recreating the taste of Gloucestershire with my pizza,
0:52:17 > 0:52:19but last spring, Matt was experimenting with
0:52:19 > 0:52:23flavours of a different kind, on a dairy farm in Suffolk.
0:52:24 > 0:52:28The fertile land here is dominated by farming,
0:52:28 > 0:52:31its tapestry of fields part of what defines this rural landscape.
0:52:36 > 0:52:38Most of the farms here have one thing in common.
0:52:38 > 0:52:42They use these fertile flat lands for crop-growing - arable farming -
0:52:42 > 0:52:45which makes this one here in Rendham a rarity,
0:52:45 > 0:52:49as it's one of only a handful of dairy farms left in the area,
0:52:49 > 0:52:52and a few years ago, you wouldn't have laid odds on it
0:52:52 > 0:52:53being here at all.
0:52:55 > 0:52:58A decade ago, milk prices plummeted, just as
0:52:58 > 0:53:00foot-and-mouth disease swept our countryside.
0:53:02 > 0:53:03For the Strachan family,
0:53:03 > 0:53:07a generations-old way of life was threatened.
0:53:07 > 0:53:10What saved them was the family rallying together and adding value
0:53:10 > 0:53:14to their milk by using it to make yoghurts, cream and ice creams.
0:53:16 > 0:53:18So how bad did things get, then?
0:53:18 > 0:53:20How close did the farm come to closure?
0:53:20 > 0:53:23Well, pretty close, really. It was three things -
0:53:23 > 0:53:28We either sold the cows, we expanded drastically
0:53:28 > 0:53:30and invested a lot of money in the farm,
0:53:30 > 0:53:33or we went into the diversification.
0:53:33 > 0:53:36- Right.- And, yeah, we chose the diversification.
0:53:36 > 0:53:39James, you were quite far away at the time. Were you in Canada?
0:53:39 > 0:53:42Yeah, I had a good opportunity for a job out there.
0:53:42 > 0:53:45- Katherine was developing her career. - In computers?- Yes.
0:53:45 > 0:53:49- A long way away from farming. - A long, long way away from farming.
0:53:49 > 0:53:50But you decided to come back,
0:53:50 > 0:53:53you all got round and said, "We're going to make this work."
0:53:53 > 0:53:56The Strachans scaled back from more than 200 cattle
0:53:56 > 0:53:57to a manageable 80,
0:53:57 > 0:54:00and although milk still provides the bulk of their business,
0:54:00 > 0:54:05the plan to expand into other areas has secured a future for them
0:54:05 > 0:54:08and the farm that's been their family for more than 35 years.
0:54:09 > 0:54:13One of the big money-makers these days is the family's own ice cream,
0:54:13 > 0:54:16and the flavours are created here,
0:54:16 > 0:54:19in the farmhouse kitchen, by mum Colette, and I am very intrigued
0:54:19 > 0:54:23to find out what she thinks of my new innovation.
0:54:23 > 0:54:25Well, Colette, I knew that you were going to be showing me
0:54:25 > 0:54:28some of your flavours today, so I thought I'd bring one of my own.
0:54:28 > 0:54:31The Southwold Pier bag is a bit of a clue.
0:54:31 > 0:54:35Stand by for the seaside sensation that is...
0:54:35 > 0:54:38- Rock...and choc.- Right...
0:54:38 > 0:54:40- It's mint rock.- It's mint rock, so...- Yes, and chocolate.
0:54:40 > 0:54:44- Do you think that will work? - So how do you want to do this?- Um...
0:54:44 > 0:54:47I thought you were going to help me out with that!
0:54:47 > 0:54:50It turns out all I've got to do is bash it.
0:54:50 > 0:54:53While I'm hammering out Baker's Rock and Choc Ice Cream,
0:54:53 > 0:54:56Collette's cooking up her new salted caramel flavour,
0:54:56 > 0:54:59which will be delighting the Suffolk crowds.
0:54:59 > 0:55:02I really think it's going to work. I'm quite excited about this.
0:55:02 > 0:55:03HE LAUGHS
0:55:03 > 0:55:05I might be up against an ice cream queen
0:55:05 > 0:55:09but I'm pretty convinced that my first foray into the world
0:55:09 > 0:55:11of frozen food is going to be a summer sizzler.
0:55:15 > 0:55:17Right, that's me done, then, Collette.
0:55:17 > 0:55:20Obviously, you're close behind.
0:55:20 > 0:55:22Well, I'm glad you didn't pick something that was going to take
0:55:22 > 0:55:24a long time. SHE LAUGHS
0:55:27 > 0:55:29Now we've created our recipes - in my case,
0:55:29 > 0:55:33crushed rock and chocolate - they go to the family's dairy,
0:55:33 > 0:55:36where they're added to an ice cream base mix made with the farm's milk.
0:55:36 > 0:55:39In just a couple of hours, they'll be flavoured, frozen,
0:55:39 > 0:55:42and I'll be unleashing them on an unsuspecting public
0:55:42 > 0:55:45to see if Rock and Choc can win over the Southwold sightseers.
0:55:49 > 0:55:54Oh, look at this. The Rock and Choc has arrived. Fresh from the dairy.
0:55:54 > 0:55:55Look at that!
0:55:55 > 0:55:57Doesn't that look delightful?
0:55:57 > 0:55:59OK, here we go.
0:55:59 > 0:56:01How's it going to taste?
0:56:01 > 0:56:04I'll get a... Get the old stick of rock in there, plenty of chocolate.
0:56:08 > 0:56:11I tell you what, that says, "British seaside town" to me.
0:56:11 > 0:56:14Let's go a-taste-testing.
0:56:14 > 0:56:17- Right, chaps, are you hungry?- Yes. - Brace yourself,
0:56:17 > 0:56:20because it's quite amazing. There you are.
0:56:20 > 0:56:23- What do you think of that flavour? - Yummy.- Yummy!
0:56:23 > 0:56:24That's exactly what I was after.
0:56:25 > 0:56:28- Give him your honest opinion.- Really?
0:56:28 > 0:56:30- Yeah.- That one's terrible.
0:56:30 > 0:56:32Ohhh, man!
0:56:32 > 0:56:34- Sorry, Matt.- No, don't be sorry.
0:56:34 > 0:56:36Don't be sorry. Just be honest.
0:56:36 > 0:56:38Anyway, we don't have to use that bit, anyway.
0:56:38 > 0:56:40HE LAUGHS
0:56:42 > 0:56:46Back in Gloucestershire, it's time for the moment of truth.
0:56:46 > 0:56:50'Have I done our local food producers proud with my pizza?'
0:56:50 > 0:56:53- Not looking too bad, is it? - It looks all right.
0:56:58 > 0:56:59It's all right.
0:56:59 > 0:57:02- Don't sound too surprised. - It's good.
0:57:02 > 0:57:04I didn't think it would be as good as this.
0:57:06 > 0:57:10Oh, it's more than all right - it's great! What a great partnership!
0:57:10 > 0:57:13I reckon we should do this again, a bit of pizza making, me and you.
0:57:13 > 0:57:16Nice bit of flavour. Actually, the halloumi
0:57:16 > 0:57:19and the meatballs - that works very well, doesn't it?
0:57:19 > 0:57:20It's all right, yeah.
0:57:20 > 0:57:23Well, that's it from Gloucestershire and Countryfile this week.
0:57:23 > 0:57:26Next week, we're in Bristol, where Matt will be abseiling
0:57:26 > 0:57:30down the Avon Gorge, and Julia will be in search of urban wildlife
0:57:30 > 0:57:31on all of our doorsteps.
0:57:31 > 0:57:35Hope you can join us then. Bye-bye. Up for another slice?
0:57:56 > 0:57:59Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd