0:00:26 > 0:00:29- ELLIE HARRISON:- Cambridgeshire - a patchwork of fields
0:00:29 > 0:00:31and vast, open fenland.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38I'm on the border of Cambridgeshire and Suffolk, in Newmarket,
0:00:38 > 0:00:41the antithesis of a one-horse town.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47For the past 350 years, it's been an equine epicentre.
0:00:51 > 0:00:55What makes Newmarket famous isn't really its racetrack -
0:00:55 > 0:00:5958 other towns have them - but its historic heathland.
0:01:03 > 0:01:05And that's what makes Warren Hill Gallops one of the best
0:01:05 > 0:01:08training grounds for horse and rider in the country.
0:01:10 > 0:01:14While most of us are still contemplating breakfast,
0:01:14 > 0:01:16this place is alive with the sound of thundering hooves.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23These gallops are the heart of the whole racing scene
0:01:23 > 0:01:25that Newmarket is built on.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28I'm meeting Nick Patton, whose job it is to maintain the heathland.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- What about it is so good? - We've been here since the 1600s.
0:01:32 > 0:01:34It's a fantastic bit of land.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37It's so free draining, fantastic grass gallops.
0:01:37 > 0:01:39There's everything here that the trainer wants.
0:01:39 > 0:01:42It must take a lot of work to maintain this.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45- That's your job, right? You and your team.- Yeah.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- What have you got to do to keep this up?- It's a 365-day-a-year operation.
0:01:49 > 0:01:51We've got 2,500 acres here
0:01:51 > 0:01:54and 90 miles of all-weather artificial gallops,
0:01:54 > 0:01:56and of course, you know, we've had a long, hard winter,
0:01:56 > 0:01:58and even in the hardest winters
0:01:58 > 0:02:01we'll be able to keep the artificial gallops open and operational,
0:02:01 > 0:02:03so when airports and highways are closed,
0:02:03 > 0:02:05we're still getting horses out here to train.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08So, we're on grass here now. Surely that's just a bit of mowing, is it?
0:02:08 > 0:02:10Yeah, you would think so.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13This is one of our peat moss gallops that we've got here.
0:02:13 > 0:02:16Ever since the Second World War, a layer of peat has been added to it.
0:02:16 > 0:02:19- What, every year?- Not every year. Every second year now.
0:02:19 > 0:02:20And worked into it.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22So it always retains that little bit of moisture,
0:02:22 > 0:02:24so even in the driest conditions,
0:02:24 > 0:02:27it still adds a bit of cushion for the horses to gallop on.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33To keep the legendary gallops in fine form, Nick employs
0:02:33 > 0:02:37a team of heathmen to make sure the going is consistently good.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42As well as the peat moss grass gallops,
0:02:42 > 0:02:46there's an all-weather artificial track.
0:02:46 > 0:02:49It looks more like the contents of a vacuum cleaner bag to me.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52- It's predominantly sand... - Oh, yeah.- ..fibre,
0:02:52 > 0:02:55little bits of PVC rubber, all joined together with wax.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58We're trying to mimic a turf surface,
0:02:58 > 0:03:02so it's got a bit of spring and bounce to it.
0:03:02 > 0:03:03What is that for?
0:03:03 > 0:03:05Every now and again we just check the compaction of the surface,
0:03:05 > 0:03:09so we will push that in and feel how compacted the surface is.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12We'll rotovate it a bit deeper or work the surface a bit deeper
0:03:12 > 0:03:14if that's getting a bit firm underneath.
0:03:14 > 0:03:17There are currently 80 racehorse trainers
0:03:17 > 0:03:22exercising just over 2,500 horses on these gallops every day.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26William Haggas has been training his horses here for 25 years.
0:03:27 > 0:03:30What is it that makes Newmarket so good?
0:03:31 > 0:03:33We've just got everything here.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37Absolutely. We got every grass gallop you can imagine.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40We've got... We can go right handed, left handed.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43We've got all-weather surfaces that go right handed, left handed,
0:03:43 > 0:03:45uphill, downhill even. We've got everything.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48A trainer's job has got so many things involved with it,
0:03:48 > 0:03:50I guess anything from finances to physio,
0:03:50 > 0:03:53but this moment where they're really letting rip
0:03:53 > 0:03:55and galloping, that must be a special thing for you?
0:03:55 > 0:03:58It's a joyous thing, doing what we do. It's fantastic,
0:03:58 > 0:04:00especially good in the summer when it's light and warm.
0:04:00 > 0:04:02No better job than this.
0:04:04 > 0:04:07The historic heathland may be at the heart of racehorsing,
0:04:07 > 0:04:10but later I'll be visiting its headquarters,
0:04:10 > 0:04:13the place where the racing rule book was written.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24JOHN CRAVEN: In the heart of Cambridgeshire
0:04:24 > 0:04:25stands Ely Cathedral -
0:04:25 > 0:04:28majestic, awe-inspiring.
0:04:28 > 0:04:31Once it was surrounded by water,
0:04:31 > 0:04:34and it's always been known as "the ship of the Fens".
0:04:34 > 0:04:37It's easy to imagine how this great building,
0:04:37 > 0:04:39appearing through the mists,
0:04:39 > 0:04:43offered the promise of refuge and safety to weary pilgrims.
0:04:43 > 0:04:48For centuries, the cathedral has dominated the surrounding landscape,
0:04:48 > 0:04:51and I'm here today to watch and to listen to
0:04:51 > 0:04:56a remarkable experiment involving its world-famous octagon tower.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01Created in the 14th century,
0:05:01 > 0:05:05it's a masterpiece of medieval design and engineering.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13Well, I've just climbed 165 steps to the top of the octagon,
0:05:13 > 0:05:16and I'm now amongst the angels.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20Now, seven sides of this tower are said to represent everyday life,
0:05:20 > 0:05:25the seven days of the week. But the eighth side represents eternity,
0:05:25 > 0:05:27hence the angels.
0:05:30 > 0:05:34The angels guide the faithful to the heights of heaven,
0:05:34 > 0:05:36with Christ at its centre.
0:05:38 > 0:05:43Centuries ago, the Benedictine choir stood in exactly this spot,
0:05:43 > 0:05:46and from here, their voices reached up
0:05:46 > 0:05:48to the uppermost heights of the tower.
0:05:48 > 0:05:50In medieval times,
0:05:50 > 0:05:53the monks had their choir stalls directly underneath the octagon.
0:05:53 > 0:05:57In fact, some of them would be up there, 50 metres high,
0:05:57 > 0:06:00and the idea was that their voices would unite heaven and earth.
0:06:00 > 0:06:04Well, it's an interesting theory, but would it really work?
0:06:04 > 0:06:07We're going to try it out now with the help of the choristers
0:06:07 > 0:06:09and their director of music. What do you think, Paul?
0:06:09 > 0:06:13Is it possible to hear voices from right up there?
0:06:13 > 0:06:15It's a story we've heard a number of times.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18Whether we're actually going to hear it well
0:06:18 > 0:06:20and whether it's going to work at this kind of distance
0:06:20 > 0:06:22is something we just don't know,
0:06:22 > 0:06:24because we've never tried it before.
0:06:24 > 0:06:25We've got four of our choristers
0:06:25 > 0:06:27right up there in the angel windows,
0:06:27 > 0:06:29we've got the main group down here...
0:06:29 > 0:06:30We're going to do it!
0:06:33 > 0:06:37# He's got the whole wide world in his hands
0:06:37 > 0:06:42# He's got the whole wide world in his hands
0:06:42 > 0:06:45# He's got the whole wide world in his hands
0:06:45 > 0:06:49# He's got the world in his hands
0:06:49 > 0:06:54# He's got the tiny little hedgehogs in his hands
0:06:54 > 0:06:57# He's got the tiny little hedgehogs in his hands
0:06:57 > 0:07:01# He's got the tiny little hedgehogs in his hands
0:07:01 > 0:07:04# He's got the whole world in his hands
0:07:04 > 0:07:07# He's got the whole world in his hands
0:07:07 > 0:07:10# He's got the whole world in his hands. #
0:07:10 > 0:07:12- It worked, didn't it?- You did it. - Yeah, well done.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14Well done!
0:07:14 > 0:07:15JOHN LAUGHS
0:07:20 > 0:07:22Now, there's a very good reason why
0:07:22 > 0:07:24the choristers have just been singing about hedgehogs.
0:07:24 > 0:07:28For centuries, this cathedral has been a sanctuary for pilgrims,
0:07:28 > 0:07:34but now it's also about to become a safe haven for hedgehogs as well.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41Out in the cathedral grounds, head gardener Aine Rodriguez
0:07:41 > 0:07:44is putting the finishing touches to a temporary hedgehog pen.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47This is an example. We've made three separate houses,
0:07:47 > 0:07:50- because apparently they like their own space, John.- Right.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53- And the houses have been made from recycled wood.- You built this?
0:07:53 > 0:07:54Yeah, from offcuts of wood.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57Not quite as elaborate as the building I've just been in.
0:07:57 > 0:08:00No, not at all. That's taken centuries.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- Well, that's awesome.- Thank you.
0:08:02 > 0:08:04- All we need now are some hedgehogs. - Exactly.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10So, here come the new arrivals.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13- Let's take them to meet their new home, shall we?- Absolutely.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17Heading up the release scheme at the Shepreth Hedgehog Hospital
0:08:17 > 0:08:18is Rebecca Willis.
0:08:19 > 0:08:21How long would you like them to be in the pen for?
0:08:21 > 0:08:24Ideally 10 to 14 days, if possible, just to acclimatise them.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28They've been in a hospital environment, some for many months,
0:08:28 > 0:08:30so this is what they need just to give them a bit of a boost.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33What's that little blue tag on him?
0:08:33 > 0:08:35Well, he's known as 45,
0:08:35 > 0:08:37this is his number all throughout.
0:08:37 > 0:08:39When they come in to us, we track them from day one,
0:08:39 > 0:08:41when the person will bring them in,
0:08:41 > 0:08:44because they've been underweight or injured.
0:08:44 > 0:08:46They're given a tracking number and the idea is that if you,
0:08:46 > 0:08:48or anyone in the area, sees this one,
0:08:48 > 0:08:50you know it's one of ours, we can come straight back.
0:08:50 > 0:08:52Little nose coming up there.
0:08:52 > 0:08:55Hedgehogs are in serious decline, aren't they? How bad is it?
0:08:55 > 0:08:57Oh, it's serious.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01If you look back to the 1950s, there are estimates of maybe 32 million.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05Today, we're lucky if we've probably got a million left in the UK.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08They're being hit, motor cars, hedgerows are disappearing
0:09:08 > 0:09:09where you would naturally find them...
0:09:09 > 0:09:13If we should find one in our back garden, what should we do?
0:09:13 > 0:09:15OK, if you find it at night, that's not a problem,
0:09:15 > 0:09:18- that should be normal, healthy behaviour.- Just leave it?- Yes.
0:09:18 > 0:09:21If you want to put food out, that's great. If you want put cat food out.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24Water is super. Most importantly, if you find it out during the day,
0:09:24 > 0:09:27you've got to contact someone straight away.
0:09:27 > 0:09:30- If you see one in the daytime?- That's not right. That's dehydration,
0:09:30 > 0:09:33that might be parasitic load, it could be injured.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45Newmarket, the headquarters of British horse racing.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48The Jockey Club Rooms have been the countryside seat
0:09:48 > 0:09:53of Britain's most influential racing body for more than 250 years.
0:09:54 > 0:09:57There's a world-famous private members' club
0:09:57 > 0:10:01few people have had the privilege of stepping inside.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05Within these four walls, a rare glimpse into the proud
0:10:05 > 0:10:08and quirky history of British horse racing.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12Room steward Alan Medlock is giving me
0:10:12 > 0:10:15a guided tour through the corridors of power.
0:10:17 > 0:10:22Decisions made here shaped horse racing as we know it today,
0:10:22 > 0:10:25and this chap, Henry Rous, wrote the rule book.
0:10:26 > 0:10:30He was the man who pulled all the rules and regulations that existed
0:10:30 > 0:10:32by word of mouth and wrote them down,
0:10:32 > 0:10:34and invented the handicapping system.
0:10:34 > 0:10:37They pull together the registration of silks
0:10:37 > 0:10:40and the colours that horses ride under, and also weighing.
0:10:40 > 0:10:43So he was the man who put all this structure into racing.
0:10:43 > 0:10:44And it still exists to this day.
0:10:44 > 0:10:47- So he deserves his place on the wall?- Oh, absolutely.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- Essential part of the industry. - Excellent.
0:10:50 > 0:10:52Another horse...
0:10:52 > 0:10:54Another horse, another horse...
0:10:56 > 0:11:01Well, this is the Coffee Room, the spiritual home of The Jockey Club.
0:11:01 > 0:11:03What about in here? What are these little cubbyholes?
0:11:03 > 0:11:08These were the areas where people would meet and congregate,
0:11:08 > 0:11:11- making book.- What does that mean? - Bookmakers.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14Probably this group here might be offering, say,
0:11:14 > 0:11:187-2 if you bet 5,000 guineas.
0:11:18 > 0:11:21Another group might be offering slightly better odds
0:11:21 > 0:11:23if you put 10,000 guineas.
0:11:23 > 0:11:28And in 1827, we know that in one bet,
0:11:28 > 0:11:30a gentleman called John Gully,
0:11:30 > 0:11:33a notorious gambler,
0:11:33 > 0:11:38lost £40,000 on one race.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42- In today's terms, that's £2.8 million.- Wow.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45So who WERE these people? Why did they have so much money to gamble?
0:11:45 > 0:11:49Landed gentry and dukes and peers of the realm,
0:11:49 > 0:11:51and knights, and goodness knows what else.
0:11:51 > 0:11:54- So, fortunes were won and lost here? - And probably estates.
0:11:54 > 0:11:56- SHE LAUGHS - Wow.
0:12:00 > 0:12:03Well, we're going into the Morning Room now,
0:12:03 > 0:12:06and of all the pictures in here,
0:12:06 > 0:12:10the most important one is this one of Eclipse.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14When they started to keep a record of bloodlines,
0:12:14 > 0:12:18a crucial aspect of breeding horses, he is number one.
0:12:18 > 0:12:22If you buy a thoroughbred horse anywhere in the world,
0:12:22 > 0:12:2696% of the bloodlines can be traced
0:12:26 > 0:12:29back through the male line to Eclipse.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31Goodness, he's the grand-daddy of them all.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34He is the grand-daddy of them all. When he died
0:12:34 > 0:12:36and they performed an autopsy on him,
0:12:36 > 0:12:39they found that he had a 14.5lb heart.
0:12:39 > 0:12:43Average horse is 10, 10.5lb,
0:12:43 > 0:12:45so you've got a 40% supercharger.
0:12:45 > 0:12:47What's this? This looks a bit macabre.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50It's one of the hooves of Eclipse, that was presented
0:12:50 > 0:12:53to The Jockey Club in 1832 by King William IV
0:12:53 > 0:12:57to mark the work that The Jockey Club were doing in racing.
0:12:57 > 0:12:59This is a snuff box?
0:12:59 > 0:13:02Snuff box, inkwells, they were made in different forms,
0:13:02 > 0:13:05but this one, I would imagine, would be a stuff box.
0:13:05 > 0:13:09While The Jockey Club no longer makes the rules, it still invests
0:13:09 > 0:13:12money to ensure the long-term success of this sport of kings.