0:00:32 > 0:00:34The sweeping silhouette of the South Downs
0:00:34 > 0:00:37has been shaped by centuries of shepherding.
0:00:37 > 0:00:41Today, people come here to soak up these endless patchwork views.
0:00:44 > 0:00:47And you can get around it in any style you like.
0:00:48 > 0:00:49I tell you what, I don't know how many miles
0:00:49 > 0:00:52we're going to be travelling, but it's going to be fun.
0:00:52 > 0:00:53Oh, absolutely.
0:00:55 > 0:00:57Helen's discovering that the beauty of this place
0:00:57 > 0:01:00isn't just reserved for daylight visitors.
0:01:01 > 0:01:03We saw Venus over there.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07We saw Orion and it had the belt and the dagger.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12Tom's in Spain finding out where all those iceberg lettuces have gone.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16So how much has it affected your business this winter?
0:01:16 > 0:01:17It's a disaster.
0:01:17 > 0:01:19It's also a disaster for our supermarkets
0:01:19 > 0:01:22and our food service companies who depend on us.
0:01:24 > 0:01:29And Adam's in Devon, looking at a novel way to stop cattle roaming.
0:01:29 > 0:01:33They're confined to the dunes area by quite an ingenious system
0:01:33 > 0:01:35that we're trialling.
0:01:46 > 0:01:50I've come to Devil's Dyke in the South Downs National Park.
0:01:54 > 0:01:56Hugging the south coast of England,
0:01:56 > 0:02:00it's an undulating landscape of chalk grassland and folding ridges.
0:02:04 > 0:02:06A rhapsody of rich greens,
0:02:06 > 0:02:10maintained from dawn till dusk by grazing sheep and cattle.
0:02:13 > 0:02:16It may be the country's newest national park,
0:02:16 > 0:02:20but you can travel its entire length on England's oldest national trail.
0:02:22 > 0:02:26The South Downs Way is 100 miles, from Eastbourne to Winchester,
0:02:26 > 0:02:28and along the whole route,
0:02:28 > 0:02:30there's only two steps and one barrier
0:02:30 > 0:02:32than can be opened on request,
0:02:32 > 0:02:34so obviously it's very popular with cyclists,
0:02:34 > 0:02:38with horse riders and people who want to go on a very long walk.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42The trail follows ancient drovers' paths
0:02:42 > 0:02:45and clings to the highest points along the way,
0:02:45 > 0:02:48offering endless, magnificent views.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53Andy Gattiker is the man responsible
0:02:53 > 0:02:55for managing the whole of the South Downs Way.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01So, Andy, would you say that you are in charge of the 100 miles?
0:03:01 > 0:03:04I like to think I am! Others might have a different opinion.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- It's a big job.- It is. - It's varied, so that keeps me busy.
0:03:08 > 0:03:09How big is the team, actually?
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- The team? Well, it's myself and my colleague.- Right.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15That's it who have a dedicated role
0:03:15 > 0:03:17to oversee the management of the trail.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20But, of course, we've got hundreds, literally hundreds,
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- of really dedicated volunteers. - Right.
0:03:23 > 0:03:24Without them, the trail wouldn't exist.
0:03:24 > 0:03:27Maintenance obviously is a big part of what you do.
0:03:27 > 0:03:31We're walking along a beautiful flint path.
0:03:31 > 0:03:32The surface changes a fair bit,
0:03:32 > 0:03:34so sometimes we're on a surface like this,
0:03:34 > 0:03:38sometimes it's just grass, other times it's more of a farm track,
0:03:38 > 0:03:40but it takes a lot of work.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43Every one metre, so every step you take along the trail,
0:03:43 > 0:03:46to resurface it, that's at least 50 quid.
0:03:46 > 0:03:48- Is it?!- Yeah, it's a lot of money.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52Right! The mind boggles at how many gates and signposts,
0:03:52 > 0:03:53all that kind of stuff...
0:03:53 > 0:03:56- There are about 550 signposts along the trail.- Right.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58About 150 gates.
0:03:58 > 0:04:01And how accessible is the whole 100 miles?
0:04:01 > 0:04:05- I would say it's one of the most accessible trails in the UK.- Right.
0:04:05 > 0:04:06- Being off-road.- Yeah.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10You can go all the way from Winchester to Eastbourne
0:04:10 > 0:04:12and not have to climb over a stile,
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- so from that point of view, it's incredibly accessible.- Yeah, sure.
0:04:16 > 0:04:19And with it being exactly 100 miles,
0:04:19 > 0:04:23- it becomes quite a selling point, I imagine.- Really nice number, yeah.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- Cos people want to do this as a challenge, I'm sure.- They do, yeah.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29We have dozens and dozens of events every year. It's a challenge,
0:04:29 > 0:04:32but not so much of a challenge that you're going to kill yourself.
0:04:32 > 0:04:34But there's been a lot of records
0:04:34 > 0:04:36set in this part of the world, hasn't there?
0:04:36 > 0:04:38Lots of endurance and physical records.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40Yeah, there are records.
0:04:40 > 0:04:42People have cycled the South Downs Way in ludicrous time,
0:04:42 > 0:04:47- like seven hours...- Yeah. - ..which is staggering.
0:04:47 > 0:04:49Ultra distance runner Mark Perkins
0:04:49 > 0:04:52holds the record for running the route.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55He ran from Winchester to Eastbourne,
0:04:55 > 0:04:57that's 100 miles, don't forget,
0:04:57 > 0:05:00in 14 hours and three minutes.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04That's around eight and a half minutes to cover each mile,
0:05:04 > 0:05:06for 100 miles.
0:05:07 > 0:05:10Now, it's hard to imagine what those numbers mean,
0:05:10 > 0:05:14so with the aid of a GPS watch, this is what that speed looks like.
0:05:16 > 0:05:17PANTING: There we go.
0:05:17 > 0:05:19Ho!
0:05:20 > 0:05:22There you have it, 8.47.
0:05:24 > 0:05:28Went up a little bit at the end, but I tell you what - hoo! -
0:05:28 > 0:05:29that is some pace.
0:05:29 > 0:05:31It's not so bad on the flat,
0:05:31 > 0:05:35but obviously when you hit the hills and the topography changes,
0:05:35 > 0:05:37and you look back
0:05:37 > 0:05:39at the hills that you've got to go across,
0:05:39 > 0:05:42that is some pace for 100 miles, let me tell you.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44Phew!
0:05:44 > 0:05:47And whilst I get my breath back, here's Tom,
0:05:47 > 0:05:50discovering what's behind the lettuce shortage
0:05:50 > 0:05:53on our supermarket shelves.
0:05:53 > 0:05:55MUSIC: Get It On by T. Rex
0:05:55 > 0:05:58This is Cambridgeshire, where I grew up.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02It all looked a little different back then.
0:06:05 > 0:06:07I looked quite different too.
0:06:07 > 0:06:08# Well, you're dirty and sweet
0:06:08 > 0:06:10# Clad in black, don't look back
0:06:10 > 0:06:13# And I love you... #
0:06:13 > 0:06:16But those aren't the only things that have changed.
0:06:17 > 0:06:18CASH REGISTER "CHA-CHINGS"
0:06:18 > 0:06:22In 1970, barely half of us had an electric fridge
0:06:22 > 0:06:26and greengrocers were still a fixture in every high street.
0:06:26 > 0:06:28What they sold us changed too.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32# Get it on
0:06:32 > 0:06:33# Bang a gong
0:06:33 > 0:06:35# Get it on... #
0:06:35 > 0:06:3950 years ago, most of the fruit and veg we ate was seasonal
0:06:39 > 0:06:42and at this time of year, that meant plenty of roots,
0:06:42 > 0:06:45like turnips, swedes, potatoes,
0:06:45 > 0:06:46salad was relatively rare
0:06:46 > 0:06:50and as for strawberries in the winter, well, you can forget it,
0:06:50 > 0:06:55whereas now we can get pretty much anything we want
0:06:55 > 0:06:56all year round.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59That is, until recently.
0:06:59 > 0:07:02Tesco and Morrisons are both limiting customers
0:07:02 > 0:07:05to three iceberg lettuces.
0:07:05 > 0:07:09This winter, the headlines have been full of a very British crisis -
0:07:09 > 0:07:11when courgettes and iceberg lettuces
0:07:11 > 0:07:14suddenly disappeared from our supermarket shelves.
0:07:19 > 0:07:21The reason for that is to be found here,
0:07:21 > 0:07:241,000 miles away in the southeast of Spain.
0:07:27 > 0:07:28I've come to Murcia,
0:07:28 > 0:07:32where more than a year's rain fell in a 48-hour period
0:07:32 > 0:07:35and it snowed for the first time in 90 years.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43You can still see the devastated produce, but the problems go on,
0:07:43 > 0:07:48because harvest has been delayed and so is the planting of new crops
0:07:48 > 0:07:49and all this matters to us
0:07:49 > 0:07:53because so much of our out-of-season salad veg comes from round here.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59Like me, John McCann has come to Spain
0:07:59 > 0:08:02to check on the iceberg lettuce crop.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05Back in the 1980s, he developed the idea of bagged salads
0:08:05 > 0:08:07and at this time of year,
0:08:07 > 0:08:11he imports 700,000 Spanish iceberg lettuces a week
0:08:11 > 0:08:14into Northern Ireland for distribution around the whole UK.
0:08:16 > 0:08:18That's 18 40-foot lorries
0:08:18 > 0:08:21driving back and forth from the UK every week.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31Is this going to be a good-looking lettuce?
0:08:31 > 0:08:33Probably a score of about a four or a five.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36- You score lettuce, do you? - We score lettuce, yeah.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38Only that's a four out of what?
0:08:38 > 0:08:41- What we want for our processing is about a six.- Right.
0:08:41 > 0:08:43See how dense that is?
0:08:43 > 0:08:45If you try and break that up to get it into a bag,
0:08:45 > 0:08:47it's just a solid lump.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49Yeah, it's a bit too much of a chewy lump.
0:08:49 > 0:08:54There's maybe 20-30% of the crop like this, which is unusable.
0:08:54 > 0:08:57So how much has it affected your business this winter?
0:08:57 > 0:08:58It's a disaster.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00It's also a disaster for our supermarkets
0:09:00 > 0:09:03and our food service companies, who depend on us.
0:09:03 > 0:09:05They're not used to shortages,
0:09:05 > 0:09:09so trying to convince them that this really was a serious situation,
0:09:09 > 0:09:12was our job to try and convey that to them.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15I'd normally only be out to see the farmers once a year.
0:09:15 > 0:09:16I've been out now three times,
0:09:16 > 0:09:20talking to growers to make sure we can get the crop that we need.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23- Can you get them from anywhere else? - Not really, no.
0:09:23 > 0:09:26Murcia is THE place to get lettuce in the wintertime.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29Excellent growing conditions here, the expertise in growing,
0:09:29 > 0:09:32the climate, the soil, the irrigation -
0:09:32 > 0:09:33it's THE place.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42It has been a tough time for the growers here.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46Some saw their entire crop wiped out in a matter of days.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48Hundreds of thousands of euros have been lost.
0:09:51 > 0:09:54And in an industry that works on very low margins,
0:09:54 > 0:09:57this winter's unpredictable weather will have a long-term impact.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02And it may not be a one-off.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05Predictions of climate change suggest we're going to get
0:10:05 > 0:10:08more erratic and extreme weather events
0:10:08 > 0:10:12and that's a real concern for everyone relying on these crops.
0:10:13 > 0:10:16Jan Vaerum from Denmark now lives in Murcia
0:10:16 > 0:10:18and coordinates the activities
0:10:18 > 0:10:21of a group of smaller growers who produce everything
0:10:21 > 0:10:24from broccoli to cucumbers for the UK market.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- So, yeah, a tough last couple of months.- Oh, yes.
0:10:29 > 0:10:31What about the next few weeks and months?
0:10:31 > 0:10:33Because we won't be able to plant in December,
0:10:33 > 0:10:36because of the rains, there were almost two-three weeks
0:10:36 > 0:10:37where we couldn't plant in the field.
0:10:37 > 0:10:41With the 60 to 90-day cycles of all the products, then we're ending up
0:10:41 > 0:10:44in the middle of March and we could be ending up with no product again.
0:10:44 > 0:10:47Maybe if we're lucky, the weather will change a little bit.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50The warmer it gets, then we're going to have a little bit of growth.
0:10:50 > 0:10:53What about longer-term impacts than that?
0:10:53 > 0:10:54For next season,
0:10:54 > 0:10:57the prices might rise because a lot of growers have been hit hard,
0:10:57 > 0:11:01so they're going to have to recuperate somehow in the pricing.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04I don't know, maybe it's going to be the crops, maybe they will change.
0:11:04 > 0:11:08A product like broccoli, it's a more hard product,
0:11:08 > 0:11:10so there might be a lot of broccoli next season.
0:11:10 > 0:11:12What about longer-term impacts even that that?
0:11:12 > 0:11:14Well, we don't know what the future's bringing,
0:11:14 > 0:11:16we don't know what the climate change is going to bring,
0:11:16 > 0:11:19but each year we're trying to do something new
0:11:19 > 0:11:22to find what's going to keep the roots from dying in extreme weather,
0:11:22 > 0:11:25so I don't know what's going to happen.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27Not going to be good for anyone, I think.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33Even if Spanish crops fail,
0:11:33 > 0:11:37we can get our out-of-season vegetables from even further afield,
0:11:37 > 0:11:40but at significantly increased costs,
0:11:40 > 0:11:42both financially and environmentally.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46And in a world where the climate is changing so unpredictably,
0:11:46 > 0:11:50supplies from all of those places could well become less reliable.
0:11:53 > 0:11:55So should we lower our expectations
0:11:55 > 0:11:58on what salad veg we can get in the winter,
0:11:58 > 0:12:01and also, what impact is Brexit going to have on all this?
0:12:01 > 0:12:04Well, that's what I'll be finding out later.
0:12:14 > 0:12:16The cities surrounding the South Downs
0:12:16 > 0:12:19make this region one of the most light-polluted in the UK.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25Today, parts of our world are illuminated almost 24/7.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30In fact, the introduction of artificial lights in rural areas
0:12:30 > 0:12:33has had a big impact on our countryside.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38Night-time lighting has all but drowned out the brightest stars
0:12:38 > 0:12:40in our sky and it's had an effect on wildlife too.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48When the nights aren't dark enough, creatures like bats, glow-worms,
0:12:48 > 0:12:52butterflies and moths can become disorientated,
0:12:52 > 0:12:56throwing out of kilter their reproduction and feeding patterns.
0:12:59 > 0:13:04I remember my dad always complaining about us not turning off the lights.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06He, however, was, I'm pretty sure,
0:13:06 > 0:13:08more worried about the electricity bill.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11Now, though, it is important to think about how our lights
0:13:11 > 0:13:14are affecting the creatures around us.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20Dr Zoe Randle from the charity Butterfly Conservation
0:13:20 > 0:13:23has been studying how light is affecting nocturnal creatures
0:13:23 > 0:13:25here on the South Downs.
0:13:26 > 0:13:30It's affecting all sorts of creatures - barn owls, bats,
0:13:30 > 0:13:34moths, and basically the lights are left on all the time and it's
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- perpetually daylight for them. - So we're confusing them?
0:13:37 > 0:13:40They don't know what to do cos their routine's out of sync, I guess.
0:13:40 > 0:13:42Exactly, or they're doing things that they shouldn't be doing,
0:13:42 > 0:13:44like moths, for example -
0:13:44 > 0:13:47rather than going out and feeding and breeding at night,
0:13:47 > 0:13:48they're just attracted to the lights
0:13:48 > 0:13:50and they're just flying around the lights instead.
0:13:50 > 0:13:52Why are they attracted to lights?
0:13:52 > 0:13:54Well, that's a really good question. We don't actually know.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57There's no scientifically proven theory
0:13:57 > 0:13:59as to why they're attracted to light.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01All we know is they don't know whether it's day or night?
0:14:01 > 0:14:03That's right.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07Monitoring moth numbers can give us vital clues
0:14:07 > 0:14:09to changes in our environment,
0:14:09 > 0:14:13such as the effects of farming and climate change.
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- What have we got here, then? - This is a Robinson moth trap.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19What will happen is the light comes on
0:14:19 > 0:14:22and then it attracts the moths in, they come in,
0:14:22 > 0:14:23they bounce around a bit
0:14:23 > 0:14:26and they settle down in amongst the egg boxes.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30Wow, you can see a real variety already.
0:14:30 > 0:14:34You can, so this little brown one here, this is a chestnut.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38You see it's a lovely chestnut brown colour with lots of patterning.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41This one, as the name suggests, is a white point,
0:14:41 > 0:14:43and also a pale brindled beauty,
0:14:43 > 0:14:46so that's one of the most common moths at this time of year.
0:14:46 > 0:14:48Look at the pattern on that. That is intriguing, isn't it?
0:14:48 > 0:14:50Absolutely lovely.
0:14:50 > 0:14:51Why do we need them?
0:14:51 > 0:14:56They're really important pollinators of plants and our crops as well
0:14:56 > 0:15:00and they're really important food for bats and birds
0:15:00 > 0:15:04and blue tit chicks eat an estimated 35 billion moth caterpillars a year
0:15:04 > 0:15:05in Britain alone.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11Around two million people live within three miles
0:15:11 > 0:15:13of the South Downs National Park,
0:15:13 > 0:15:15which is surrounded by the bright lights
0:15:15 > 0:15:18of Winchester, Brighton and Eastbourne.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23The park has been working towards saving the last few patches
0:15:23 > 0:15:28of properly dark skies and last year became the 11th site in the world
0:15:28 > 0:15:32to be granted International Dark Sky Reserve status.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39Dan Oakley is a park ranger and monitors the light levels
0:15:39 > 0:15:41here on the South Downs.
0:15:41 > 0:15:45First of all, what is a Dark Sky Reserve?
0:15:45 > 0:15:49OK, a Dark Skies Reserve is kind of like a landscape-scale designation
0:15:49 > 0:15:52for an area that's shown it's got really good intrinsic dark skies.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54What we did, over three years,
0:15:54 > 0:15:57we took one of these little light monitors with some volunteers
0:15:57 > 0:16:00and we mapped out the sky as best we could, all over the south coast.
0:16:00 > 0:16:02We then convert that to a map.
0:16:02 > 0:16:03We're about where my finger is there,
0:16:03 > 0:16:07so anywhere that's dark blue and black are really good dark skies.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10You can see the actual national park has got quite a lot of dark skies.
0:16:10 > 0:16:12Yeah!
0:16:12 > 0:16:15In order to maintain this Dark Sky status,
0:16:15 > 0:16:18more than 1,000 local people signed a pledge
0:16:18 > 0:16:20to keep their light levels low.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23And almost 3,000 street lamps
0:16:23 > 0:16:27were replaced with downward-facing LED lights.
0:16:32 > 0:16:34For the Hampshire Astronomical Group,
0:16:34 > 0:16:36based just down the road in Clanfield,
0:16:36 > 0:16:40it provides perfect conditions to gaze into the cosmos.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45They have five telescopes of varying sizes here,
0:16:45 > 0:16:48and Graham Bryant is going to show me their biggest one,
0:16:48 > 0:16:50because apparently size does matter.
0:16:52 > 0:16:53The bigger the telescope,
0:16:53 > 0:16:56the more light you're going to be able to gather,
0:16:56 > 0:16:58the fainter the objects you're going to be seeing,
0:16:58 > 0:17:00so what you're looking for is nice dark skies
0:17:00 > 0:17:03so that any light pollution doesn't interfere with our imaging.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06So what can you see with this?
0:17:06 > 0:17:10With this telescope, we can pick up really faint galaxies,
0:17:10 > 0:17:13supernovas, stars that are exploding in those galaxies,
0:17:13 > 0:17:14and with this telescope,
0:17:14 > 0:17:17we've also recently been doing work looking at exoplanets,
0:17:17 > 0:17:19planets going around other stars.
0:17:24 > 0:17:29- So this is what that telescope can see?- It is, yes.
0:17:29 > 0:17:31That's so good I thought it was a screensaver.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34No, that is an image of the Orion Nebula,
0:17:34 > 0:17:36a star-forming region and in the centre
0:17:36 > 0:17:38there are lots of stars there,
0:17:38 > 0:17:40but you can see the beautiful colours of this nebula,
0:17:40 > 0:17:42which you can't see with the naked eye.
0:17:42 > 0:17:44- Mind-blowing, isn't it?- It is.
0:17:47 > 0:17:49Well, it's just starting to get really dark,
0:17:49 > 0:17:51and for the nearby village of Buriton,
0:17:51 > 0:17:54it's their very first Dark Skies Festival.
0:17:54 > 0:17:58The telescopes are out and the locals are looking up.
0:18:00 > 0:18:01Aaron, sorry to interrupt.
0:18:01 > 0:18:06- What can you see? How is it going? - We saw Venus over there.
0:18:06 > 0:18:10We saw Orion and it had the belt and the dagger.
0:18:10 > 0:18:12Well, you are a bit of an expert with this piece of kit.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14It is so dark out here, isn't it?
0:18:14 > 0:18:16We're actually cheating - we've had to put an extra light on
0:18:16 > 0:18:18so we can see all of your faces.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21What do you reckon, Max? Have you seen much in the sky?
0:18:21 > 0:18:25Yeah, I think it's really fun to see all the different stars in the sky.
0:18:25 > 0:18:27Well, do you know what?
0:18:27 > 0:18:30I think we're actually spoiling your fun and what you can see
0:18:30 > 0:18:31by having that light on,
0:18:31 > 0:18:34so shall we turn it off and let you get back to it?
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- Yeah.- Max it's like, "Yes, but I don't want to be rude."
0:18:36 > 0:18:39Right, let's kill the light. Enjoy the stars, guys.
0:18:50 > 0:18:51From the outside,
0:18:51 > 0:18:55this looks like many other traditional Sussex farmhouses,
0:18:55 > 0:18:59built of stone and sitting at the foot of the South Downs.
0:19:02 > 0:19:07But step inside and it's anything but a traditional Sussex farmhouse.
0:19:07 > 0:19:11There are paintings everywhere, even on the doors, look.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15For this was the home of Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant,
0:19:15 > 0:19:18two leading members of that famous,
0:19:18 > 0:19:23even notorious bohemian group known as the Bloomsbury Set.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28It was made up of authors, artists and thinkers
0:19:28 > 0:19:31and as well as painters like Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell,
0:19:31 > 0:19:34it also included her sister Virginia Woolf,
0:19:34 > 0:19:36economist John Maynard Keynes,
0:19:36 > 0:19:38and critic Roger Fry.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42It took the name from the area of London where they were based.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47Following the outbreak of the First World War,
0:19:47 > 0:19:49Vanessa and Duncan left Bloomsbury,
0:19:49 > 0:19:52with all its metropolitan fascinations,
0:19:52 > 0:19:56and came here to this relatively remote farmhouse
0:19:56 > 0:20:00and then proceeded to turn the whole place
0:20:00 > 0:20:01into a work of art.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06Duncan was a conscientious objector and after they settled here
0:20:06 > 0:20:09at Charleston in 1916,
0:20:09 > 0:20:10he continued to paint,
0:20:10 > 0:20:13but also found a job as a labourer on a nearby farm.
0:20:13 > 0:20:17That work was considered to be essential to the war effort,
0:20:17 > 0:20:19so he avoided being sent to prison.
0:20:19 > 0:20:24Charleston is now a museum to their alternative lifestyle.
0:20:24 > 0:20:26Dr Darren Clarke is curator.
0:20:28 > 0:20:31Well, they were really forced to live in the countryside,
0:20:31 > 0:20:34weren't they, because of his conscientious objection?
0:20:34 > 0:20:38Did they resent that, or did the countryside give them something?
0:20:38 > 0:20:41They already knew Sussex really well, particularly this area.
0:20:41 > 0:20:46They really valued the sense of space it gave them away from London,
0:20:46 > 0:20:49but also the freedom to be on the Downs,
0:20:49 > 0:20:52they would bathe naked in the ponds,
0:20:52 > 0:20:56they would sunbathe, they were able to work out of doors,
0:20:56 > 0:20:58and they would be able to entertain all their friends,
0:20:58 > 0:21:00all their Bloomsbury friends,
0:21:00 > 0:21:04so I think it was a really important breathing space for them.
0:21:04 > 0:21:08And lots of their friends did spend some time with them.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10Yep, people would come and visit.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12You would always be encouraged to bring some work,
0:21:12 > 0:21:15so it was a working house, not a holiday home,
0:21:15 > 0:21:16so you would work in the morning
0:21:16 > 0:21:20and then maybe enjoy each other's company in the evening.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23During their first two years at Charleston,
0:21:23 > 0:21:25the house became their canvas.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29They made it their own by painting on every surface.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33It was an expression of their love of art beyond the picture frame.
0:21:36 > 0:21:39This is an amazing fireplace, isn't it?
0:21:39 > 0:21:41This was painted by Duncan Grant
0:21:41 > 0:21:44and it's a really good example of how the artists believed
0:21:44 > 0:21:46that art shouldn't be contained by the canvas,
0:21:46 > 0:21:48it should spill across the whole room,
0:21:48 > 0:21:51that your whole life should be full of art,
0:21:51 > 0:21:56so the decorations you have on the wall, the plates that you eat from,
0:21:56 > 0:22:00the curtains on your windows, should all be rich and fulfilling
0:22:00 > 0:22:03and really contribute to your wellbeing.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08Between the wars, Charleston was a much-loved retreat
0:22:08 > 0:22:11for Vanessa, Duncan and their Bloomsbury friends.
0:22:12 > 0:22:17The Second World War brought Vanessa and Duncan back to Charleston,
0:22:17 > 0:22:21where they lived for the rest of their lives and in the early 1950s,
0:22:21 > 0:22:26Vanessa painted this loving portrait of their country home.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33Artist Kelly Hall is following in their wake,
0:22:33 > 0:22:36100 years after they first moved here.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39She too is entranced by the undulating landscape
0:22:39 > 0:22:42and she's painting the same view of Charleston
0:22:42 > 0:22:44in her own distinctive style.
0:22:45 > 0:22:48- Hello, Kelly. Can I stop you just for a moment?- Hi, please do.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- That is lovely, isn't it? - Thank you so much.- Really nice.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54Obviously, you're drawing great inspiration from Vanessa's painting.
0:22:54 > 0:22:55I am indeed, yes.
0:22:55 > 0:22:57I've used that as my source of inspiration to create
0:22:57 > 0:23:00a modern-day version of that painting in my style.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04The colour palette I use, I choose it
0:23:04 > 0:23:10because it's a sort of celebratory, summery-day holiday kind of feel.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- But you have added the South Downs. - I have indeed, yes.
0:23:13 > 0:23:14That's a bit of artistic license.
0:23:14 > 0:23:18I really wanted to bring it home
0:23:18 > 0:23:22that Charleston sits within the heart of the South Downs.
0:23:22 > 0:23:27And to me, your style is very much like those old railway posters
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- from 50-60 years ago.- Yes, indeed.
0:23:30 > 0:23:33I studied graphic design at Central Saint Martins in London,
0:23:33 > 0:23:34which was then in Covent Garden,
0:23:34 > 0:23:37just around the corner from the London Transport Museum,
0:23:37 > 0:23:39so the archives of vintage railway posters
0:23:39 > 0:23:42have always been a source of inspiration for me.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46I'm sure that Vanessa and Duncan would be thrilled to know
0:23:46 > 0:23:49that their farmhouse is still inspiring artists to this day.
0:23:49 > 0:23:51I really hope so.
0:23:51 > 0:23:54It's a real creative spiritual home, wonderful place to be.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58So, thanks to artists like Kelly,
0:23:58 > 0:24:01the legacy of the Bloomsbury Group is still being cherished
0:24:01 > 0:24:03here on the South Downs.
0:24:07 > 0:24:11Earlier, Tom visited southern Spain to see how bad weather there
0:24:11 > 0:24:14has damaged the vegetables we enjoy in winter.
0:24:14 > 0:24:18So what can be done back home to ensure we have a year-round supply?
0:24:18 > 0:24:20Here's Tom.
0:24:25 > 0:24:28In uncertain times, with a growing population,
0:24:28 > 0:24:31food security is a hot topic.
0:24:31 > 0:24:36Some think we should source our food from many different places
0:24:36 > 0:24:39to protect us against localised shortages.
0:24:40 > 0:24:43Others say we should be relying on places like this
0:24:43 > 0:24:48right here in the UK to provide our vegetables all year round.
0:24:50 > 0:24:54Martin Evans is familiar with both sides of the argument.
0:24:54 > 0:24:5535 years ago,
0:24:55 > 0:24:59he helped introduce the UK to exotic vegetables from abroad
0:24:59 > 0:25:01and then he had a change of heart,
0:25:01 > 0:25:06turning his attention back to UK production here in Nottinghamshire.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09Now he's using innovative techniques to extend the season
0:25:09 > 0:25:13of the traditional Chantenay carrot for almost all of the year.
0:25:14 > 0:25:17It's absolutely teeming with carrots under here.
0:25:17 > 0:25:19Look at that, beauties.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22What's the purpose of all the straw here?
0:25:22 > 0:25:24The main purpose is insulation,
0:25:24 > 0:25:26to insulate the cold out in the winter months,
0:25:26 > 0:25:27and then from now on,
0:25:27 > 0:25:29we'll use it to insulate the heat out
0:25:29 > 0:25:32and make sure that we can harvest quite happily UK carrots
0:25:32 > 0:25:34up to the end of May.
0:25:34 > 0:25:37End of May? So you're almost covering the whole year?
0:25:37 > 0:25:40Yeah, we sort of say carrots we can do 48 weeks of the year as average.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42You didn't start like this,
0:25:42 > 0:25:44you started overseas in your farming career.
0:25:44 > 0:25:47I was involved in Mexico with green onions, they call them there,
0:25:47 > 0:25:49or salad onions, as we know them as.
0:25:49 > 0:25:51Egypt, more recently Israel,
0:25:51 > 0:25:54so all over the world to try to use a different climate
0:25:54 > 0:25:57actually to satisfy our need for produce and quality.
0:25:57 > 0:26:01- What prompted the change? - A lot of travelling I was doing.
0:26:01 > 0:26:04One week in Mexico, I did 26 flights
0:26:04 > 0:26:07and you just look at that and you see the amount of energy resource
0:26:07 > 0:26:10being put into that, so you start to think about things differently
0:26:10 > 0:26:11you start to think,
0:26:11 > 0:26:15"Can you grow things at home in a much more sophisticated manner?"
0:26:15 > 0:26:17The UK climate's changing,
0:26:17 > 0:26:19technology's changing - we need to be part of that.
0:26:19 > 0:26:22The 52-week-of-the-year offer is what we need to be doing
0:26:22 > 0:26:25and learn how to have uncompromising quality.
0:26:25 > 0:26:29Why do you think it's important that we should get more from Britain?
0:26:29 > 0:26:32At the moment, we're probably at our lowest level of self-sufficiency,
0:26:32 > 0:26:34we're down at about 50% in terms of horticultural crops.
0:26:34 > 0:26:36Vegetables are sitting about, we think, 57%,
0:26:36 > 0:26:38according to the latest research we've done.
0:26:38 > 0:26:40So that's as low as it's ever been,
0:26:40 > 0:26:42so I think we need to improve upon that.
0:26:48 > 0:26:50No matter how innovative we are,
0:26:50 > 0:26:54extending the UK growing season of iceberg lettuces through the winter
0:26:54 > 0:26:56is never going to be economically viable.
0:26:56 > 0:26:58There's just not enough sunlight.
0:26:58 > 0:27:01So if we want them on our shelves in December and January,
0:27:01 > 0:27:05we're going to have to continue driving them across Europe
0:27:05 > 0:27:09to get here and that's not helping in our battle with climate change.
0:27:12 > 0:27:14And then there's Brexit.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16We don't yet know the future trade deal,
0:27:16 > 0:27:19but import tariffs are a possibility,
0:27:19 > 0:27:22so if we can't rely on produce from Europe,
0:27:22 > 0:27:24could science help us out?
0:27:24 > 0:27:25Well, here in Yorkshire,
0:27:25 > 0:27:30they're already putting British salad produce into these boxes.
0:27:37 > 0:27:40Scientists here at the Stockbridge Technology Centre
0:27:40 > 0:27:41have developed a way
0:27:41 > 0:27:44to grow tomatoes in the UK throughout the winter
0:27:44 > 0:27:49using a combination of natural and highly efficient LED light.
0:27:49 > 0:27:52That's the present, but they're also working on the future.
0:27:54 > 0:27:58'Dr Phil Davis is the man in charge of this project.'
0:27:58 > 0:27:59What's happening in here?
0:27:59 > 0:28:04So we're growing plants indoors with LED lighting, but with no sunlight
0:28:04 > 0:28:07and that means we can grow these ornamental crops
0:28:07 > 0:28:10all through the winter, get good-quality plants
0:28:10 > 0:28:14- and we can control when they flower. - What's in here?- This is lavender,
0:28:14 > 0:28:18but elsewhere in the facility, we're looking at how we grow food crops,
0:28:18 > 0:28:22so LED lights give us the chance to change the colour of the light.
0:28:22 > 0:28:25We're trying to understand how light controls flavour
0:28:25 > 0:28:27and quality of crops.
0:28:27 > 0:28:29Plants respond to different parts of the spectrum,
0:28:29 > 0:28:33so the red light makes them photosynthesise and grow rapidly,
0:28:33 > 0:28:36blue light helps them open their stomata so they can breathe,
0:28:36 > 0:28:38but it also changes some of their chemistry,
0:28:38 > 0:28:41so the flavour compounds and aromas of plants are controlled
0:28:41 > 0:28:44by those mixtures of red and blue light.
0:28:44 > 0:28:47So let me show you some of our basil plants over here.
0:28:51 > 0:28:55Whoa, something extraordinary happened there. Something magic!
0:28:55 > 0:28:58So what is the point of these different-coloured lights here?
0:28:58 > 0:29:00This facility's all about trying to produce
0:29:00 > 0:29:02safe, secure food all year round.
0:29:04 > 0:29:09So could you use this technology to grow things like iceberg lettuces?
0:29:09 > 0:29:13Technically, we could grow anything, but we're really trying to focus in
0:29:13 > 0:29:16on the produce that makes sense economically -
0:29:16 > 0:29:20produce like the salads, which are relatively short shelf life,
0:29:20 > 0:29:22we can produce near point of sale
0:29:22 > 0:29:25and we can maximise the quality of those produce.
0:29:25 > 0:29:29Is it your belief that in, I don't know, let's say 10-20 years' time,
0:29:29 > 0:29:32a good proportion of our food will be grown with LED lighting
0:29:32 > 0:29:33rather than sunshine?
0:29:33 > 0:29:36I think it's part of the future and I think we need to mix that in
0:29:36 > 0:29:39with lots of other advances in technology
0:29:39 > 0:29:41to ensure we have a safe supply of food.
0:29:44 > 0:29:47In a world where we're used to having a ready supply
0:29:47 > 0:29:50of our favourite vegetables all year round,
0:29:50 > 0:29:52this winter has been a wake-up call.
0:29:53 > 0:29:57Inventions from scientists and innovations from farmers
0:29:57 > 0:29:59mean we can grow more of what we eat,
0:29:59 > 0:30:01but it's all about the cost.
0:30:01 > 0:30:06Economics will decide if hi-tech veg remains the tip of the iceberg
0:30:06 > 0:30:08or a big part of our staple diet.
0:30:14 > 0:30:18We're in the South Downs, where generations of grazing sheep
0:30:18 > 0:30:21have shaped the gentle slopes of this green landscape.
0:30:24 > 0:30:27Saddlescombe Farm has been home to centuries of sheep
0:30:27 > 0:30:30and the shepherds who looked after them.
0:30:30 > 0:30:32It's a way of life that's been lost,
0:30:32 > 0:30:35a casualty of modern farming methods.
0:30:37 > 0:30:41Tales of the old Downs shepherds' way of life written in poetry,
0:30:41 > 0:30:43found in tattered books,
0:30:43 > 0:30:47hooked contemporary shepherd Darren Greening with their romanticism.
0:30:48 > 0:30:52Oh, do you know the downland where the swad is short and sweet
0:30:52 > 0:30:56Where the gorse grows like a golden flame and fairies you might meet
0:30:56 > 0:30:59You will see them dancing in their rings or hanging from a spray
0:30:59 > 0:31:02Of bramble bush if you go there at the purple close of day.
0:31:05 > 0:31:08So, Darren, if we just think back to what it was like,
0:31:08 > 0:31:11how does it compare to what happens around these parts today?
0:31:11 > 0:31:13The sheep at the moment are enclosed, as you can see,
0:31:13 > 0:31:14with the fences around
0:31:14 > 0:31:17and the shepherd only needs to come out once a day,
0:31:17 > 0:31:19check on the sheep, make sure everything's fine.
0:31:19 > 0:31:22Back in the days of the shepherds of the 1900s,
0:31:22 > 0:31:25they would actually fold their flock, and what that meant was
0:31:25 > 0:31:28is that the sheep would be let out from the farm in the mornings
0:31:28 > 0:31:31and the shepherd would, with a bag and a flask and a lump of cheese
0:31:31 > 0:31:34and a bit of bread, follow his flock across the Downs
0:31:34 > 0:31:37and would take them to the areas that he wanted grazing.
0:31:37 > 0:31:40And of course that kind of grazing technique
0:31:40 > 0:31:42made the Downs really what they were back then.
0:31:42 > 0:31:43Oh, yes, I mean,
0:31:43 > 0:31:47it was conservation before we knew what conservation was,
0:31:47 > 0:31:51because the shepherd would take the sheep through at such a slow speed
0:31:51 > 0:31:55that it was grazed down to almost manicured lawn status,
0:31:55 > 0:31:58which allowed the wild flowers, the herbs, the wild basil,
0:31:58 > 0:32:01the thyme, to come through for its perfect environment,
0:32:01 > 0:32:06so in many ways, from year dot, man and sheep created the South Downs.
0:32:08 > 0:32:10On this farm here, where we are today, on Saddlescombe,
0:32:10 > 0:32:15there was a famous shepherd called Nelson Coppard, incredible guy.
0:32:15 > 0:32:17He was 25 years of age in 1888,
0:32:17 > 0:32:20working here as only an under-shepherd,
0:32:20 > 0:32:23and it took him another five years to become head shepherd
0:32:23 > 0:32:25on the farm just across the valley.
0:32:26 > 0:32:29Nelson found fame when author Barclay Wills featured him
0:32:29 > 0:32:33in his book about the downland shepherds.
0:32:33 > 0:32:36Nelson was unusual. He liked to talk to people.
0:32:36 > 0:32:38Most shepherds were solitary,
0:32:38 > 0:32:40but Nelson loved to give out his information
0:32:40 > 0:32:44and from that, Barclay Wills had a whole new world opened up to him,
0:32:44 > 0:32:46because when he travelled towards Eastbourne,
0:32:46 > 0:32:48or further down into Findon-way,
0:32:48 > 0:32:51if he mentioned Nelson Coppard's name, the other shepherds knew
0:32:51 > 0:32:55he could be trusted and so they too passed on their information.
0:33:00 > 0:33:03Today, Saddlescombe is owned by the National Trust
0:33:03 > 0:33:06and farmed by tenants Camilla and Roly Puzey.
0:33:08 > 0:33:10Now, then, dogs.
0:33:10 > 0:33:12Right, let's fill up your feeder.
0:33:12 > 0:33:14As well as producing food,
0:33:14 > 0:33:17they're keen to give people a glimpse into the reality of farming.
0:33:17 > 0:33:23This yummy stuff was actually cut from this field last summer.
0:33:23 > 0:33:26- Oh, was it?- Yeah, so... - Smells delicious, there it is.
0:33:26 > 0:33:28The smell of summer!
0:33:28 > 0:33:31Oh, I know, it is, it's a great smell.
0:33:31 > 0:33:34You can join them to be a shepherd for the day,
0:33:34 > 0:33:38which, when the ewes are lambing, is surely an added complication.
0:33:38 > 0:33:42- Camilla, it is a stressful time, obviously.- I know, we're crazy.
0:33:42 > 0:33:46Then we add more stress by then looking after other people,
0:33:46 > 0:33:50but the value and the importance of what they get and what we get
0:33:50 > 0:33:53from that whole experience and...
0:33:53 > 0:33:57And the lessons of life and death, because obviously people come here
0:33:57 > 0:34:00- with maybe a rose-tinted vision of what lambing is.- Absolutely.
0:34:00 > 0:34:02You show warts and all, then?
0:34:02 > 0:34:04The first thing that we say to people
0:34:04 > 0:34:06is nature will throw all sorts of things at us.
0:34:06 > 0:34:10Hopefully we'll see some lovely live lambs being born,
0:34:10 > 0:34:12but there could be a few deaths as well
0:34:12 > 0:34:15and it's just people appreciating that whole story.
0:34:17 > 0:34:20Camilla and Roly's ambitions for the farm were important factors
0:34:20 > 0:34:24when they applied to take on the tenancy at Saddlescombe.
0:34:25 > 0:34:28We love, obviously, farming, food production,
0:34:28 > 0:34:30we love the conservation work,
0:34:30 > 0:34:32we love the idea of this responsibility
0:34:32 > 0:34:37that we've got to look after these species-rich chalk downlands,
0:34:37 > 0:34:41but the other thing is we love sharing what we do with others,
0:34:41 > 0:34:46- so obviously the National Trust were a key partner for us.- Sure.
0:34:46 > 0:34:49They were looking for a family to live on the farm
0:34:49 > 0:34:52and really live and breathe it,
0:34:52 > 0:34:56and we certainly do that. We absolutely love it.
0:34:56 > 0:35:00So how does the relationship look from the landlord's point of view?
0:35:00 > 0:35:03I caught up with Graham Wellfare of the National Trust.
0:35:03 > 0:35:05So how big a part are tenant farms, then,
0:35:05 > 0:35:08for the National Trust here on the South Downs?
0:35:08 > 0:35:11They're a massive part of the work that we do.
0:35:11 > 0:35:16- Absolutely vital for looking after landscapes like this.- Yep.
0:35:17 > 0:35:20Without tenant farmers, this landscape would be lost.
0:35:20 > 0:35:25For example, if we didn't have any sheep here, or cattle,
0:35:25 > 0:35:27within ten years this would be covered in scrub,
0:35:27 > 0:35:30within 50 years it would be covered in woodland.
0:35:30 > 0:35:32Camilla and Roly we work really closely with,
0:35:32 > 0:35:35cos they're at Saddlescombe and they're brilliant because
0:35:35 > 0:35:38they're bringing an extra dimension to their tenancy,
0:35:38 > 0:35:42cos they're actually engaging with people and they want to share
0:35:42 > 0:35:45their passion of farming with people as well.
0:35:45 > 0:35:48What did you think of that idea when you heard about
0:35:48 > 0:35:50what Roly and Camilla wanted to do?
0:35:50 > 0:35:52That's exactly what we wanted.
0:35:52 > 0:35:53It was almost like an interview process.
0:35:53 > 0:35:56We had a few people interested and a lot of them
0:35:56 > 0:35:59would have farmed Saddlescombe perfectly all right,
0:35:59 > 0:36:00but Camilla and Roly just came up
0:36:00 > 0:36:02with something that little bit extra,
0:36:02 > 0:36:06like the shepherd day, the lambing weekends
0:36:06 > 0:36:09and it's just sharing what they love with people.
0:36:20 > 0:36:24Now, even on a damp, drizzly day in the depths of winter,
0:36:24 > 0:36:27the beaches of North Devon have a beauty all of their own.
0:36:27 > 0:36:31It's the last place you'd expect to see cattle,
0:36:31 > 0:36:34but here they are, grazing the dunes.
0:36:34 > 0:36:36So how do you keep them off the beach? Here's Adam.
0:36:42 > 0:36:46Woolacombe Bay is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
0:36:46 > 0:36:48and despite the sea mist blowing in,
0:36:48 > 0:36:53the beach that runs for miles and miles is absolutely stunning
0:36:53 > 0:36:57and you'd expect to see people down here enjoying the coastline,
0:36:57 > 0:36:59but not cows.
0:37:02 > 0:37:04The sand dunes stretch for almost two miles
0:37:04 > 0:37:07and are home to a herd of North Devon cattle.
0:37:07 > 0:37:09They're owned by farmer Wayne Copp.
0:37:09 > 0:37:11Wayne!
0:37:11 > 0:37:13- Good to see you.- Good morning, Adam. Good to see you.
0:37:13 > 0:37:16- What a place to farm! - An unusual spot for sure, yeah.
0:37:16 > 0:37:18Strange context for agriculture.
0:37:18 > 0:37:21So you've got the sea on one side and your cattle up on the dunes?
0:37:21 > 0:37:25Yeah, I've got one passion on one side and one passion on another.
0:37:25 > 0:37:28I mean, it's a pretty rough landscape, isn't it? Incredible!
0:37:28 > 0:37:30It did have the cattle scratching their heads for
0:37:30 > 0:37:32a few days when we introduced them,
0:37:32 > 0:37:34but once they'd stopped looking at me sideways
0:37:34 > 0:37:35as if they'd been condemned,
0:37:35 > 0:37:38they were browsing and we've been quite enlightened and encouraged
0:37:38 > 0:37:39by what they've done.
0:37:39 > 0:37:43Farming so close to the sea can sometimes cause problems,
0:37:43 > 0:37:45as Wayne has seen for himself.
0:37:45 > 0:37:48We had an occasion at Croyde, which is just over the point there.
0:37:48 > 0:37:50I happened to be on the beach
0:37:50 > 0:37:54and a neighbour's steer got loose and the first thing it did
0:37:54 > 0:37:57was swim out through a six-foot shore break,
0:37:57 > 0:37:58confounded me completely
0:37:58 > 0:38:01and then he swam round the bay for an hour
0:38:01 > 0:38:05- and I've kept cows all my life - I had no idea they would swim.- Yeah.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08And he wasn't just an amateur - once he'd got into his stride,
0:38:08 > 0:38:10he was stretching out
0:38:10 > 0:38:13and having a nice fetch and a nice finish.
0:38:13 > 0:38:16- Of course, all the gas in the rumen only holds him up.- Yeah.
0:38:16 > 0:38:18Anyway, he swam round the bay for an hour,
0:38:18 > 0:38:21and just to top it all, he body-surfed back into the shore.
0:38:21 > 0:38:23When he'd had enough, he wasn't going to go in
0:38:23 > 0:38:25because we wanted him to go in,
0:38:25 > 0:38:27we were paddling around trying to shoo him back in.
0:38:27 > 0:38:31He body-surfed in and we managed to nose him in the surf.
0:38:31 > 0:38:32- Goodness me!- Yeah.
0:38:32 > 0:38:36That's the only thing I've ever saved from the ocean in my life!
0:38:36 > 0:38:38Do your cattle venture down onto the beach?
0:38:38 > 0:38:42No, they're confined to the dunes area by quite an ingenious system
0:38:42 > 0:38:44that we're trialling,
0:38:44 > 0:38:47which keeps them in an area where we want them to graze
0:38:47 > 0:38:49without putting up any visible fencing.
0:38:49 > 0:38:52- Amazing. Can we go and take a look at them?- Yeah, let's go.
0:39:04 > 0:39:07Quite an extreme place for you to have to find your cattle
0:39:07 > 0:39:09and check round.
0:39:09 > 0:39:13It's got its challenges, but you probably know as well...
0:39:13 > 0:39:16- Going up over this? - Yeah, go up over that, yeah.
0:39:16 > 0:39:18Gun it, there we go.
0:39:18 > 0:39:22They're quite sentient creatures and they're creatures of habit.
0:39:30 > 0:39:32Goodness me, Wayne, they're in lovely condition.
0:39:32 > 0:39:34They're North Devons, are they?
0:39:34 > 0:39:37They are, they're a native breed to this coast and a hardy breed
0:39:37 > 0:39:41and this is a pretty extreme testing ground for that.
0:39:41 > 0:39:43Were you nervous putting them on this?
0:39:43 > 0:39:46To release them in an environment like this is a leap of faith,
0:39:46 > 0:39:47but they have performed.
0:39:47 > 0:39:49I'm biased, cos I'm a North Devon man,
0:39:49 > 0:39:51but the right breed for the right location.
0:39:51 > 0:39:55These hardy, traditional breeds can survive off this rough pasture,
0:39:55 > 0:39:58but this is really rough, isn't it?
0:39:58 > 0:40:02It is rough and we've been encouraged and surprised -
0:40:02 > 0:40:03and it's been a learning curve -
0:40:03 > 0:40:05at what they have browsed.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08Will you carry on doing this year in, year out, do you think?
0:40:08 > 0:40:11This has been a trial and as far as I'm concerned, as a stockman,
0:40:11 > 0:40:13it's been successful.
0:40:13 > 0:40:15My cows are coming off in good condition.
0:40:15 > 0:40:16For them to be out in winter here,
0:40:16 > 0:40:18I think if they had a choice and they could vote,
0:40:18 > 0:40:22- they'd be down here and not sat in a dark shed somewhere.- Sure.
0:40:23 > 0:40:24Now, about that trial.
0:40:24 > 0:40:29The dunes are owned by the National Trust and open access is important.
0:40:29 > 0:40:33Fencing is not an option, so how do they keep the cattle off the beach?
0:40:33 > 0:40:36Joshua Day from the Trust is going to tell me.
0:40:36 > 0:40:40So, Josh, tell me the secret of managing to keep these cattle
0:40:40 > 0:40:43in an area where I can't see any fences.
0:40:43 > 0:40:45Well, the secret lies within these collars here
0:40:45 > 0:40:48and this cable that's buried around the site.
0:40:48 > 0:40:51There's 1,500 metres of cable buried around the site,
0:40:51 > 0:40:54which took a fair few days to dig in by hand.
0:40:54 > 0:40:57These collars speak to an AM frequency that's emitted
0:40:57 > 0:40:59by this cable. This cable's connected to an energiser
0:40:59 > 0:41:01that's powered by a 12V battery
0:41:01 > 0:41:04and when the cattle walk within five metres of this cable,
0:41:04 > 0:41:05they get an audible signal,
0:41:05 > 0:41:07so a beep starts to come from this collar.
0:41:07 > 0:41:10The cattle have been trained to know that this beep means
0:41:10 > 0:41:11if they go any further,
0:41:11 > 0:41:13they'll get a small electrical pulse in their neck,
0:41:13 > 0:41:16so they'll turn away from the cable and away from the boundary.
0:41:16 > 0:41:18So it's like me having an electric fence at home,
0:41:18 > 0:41:19but there they can see it -
0:41:19 > 0:41:23- here they get a beep to say they're getting near it.- Exactly.
0:41:23 > 0:41:25One of the things we were concerned about was animal welfare with these.
0:41:25 > 0:41:28It was really important the animal welfare was maintained,
0:41:28 > 0:41:30so we had veterinary observations throughout the project
0:41:30 > 0:41:32to make sure there was no issues with that.
0:41:32 > 0:41:35And are the cattle doing the right job for the flora and fauna?
0:41:35 > 0:41:37They're doing an amazing job,
0:41:37 > 0:41:38far better than we ever expected them to do.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41We were expecting them just to strip some of the grass from the sites,
0:41:41 > 0:41:43ignore the bramble, ignore the bracken areas,
0:41:43 > 0:41:45but they've really got stuck in
0:41:45 > 0:41:48and they've created such an incredible mosaic of niches
0:41:48 > 0:41:50- for species coming this summer. - It's really lovely, isn't it,
0:41:50 > 0:41:53to have a farmer working with conservationists
0:41:53 > 0:41:54to create this habitat?
0:41:54 > 0:41:56It is, it's one of the biggest things that's come out of it
0:41:56 > 0:41:58for me and, I think, for our partnership with Wayne,
0:41:58 > 0:42:01is that he's saving on costs for in-wintering his cattle
0:42:01 > 0:42:03having them out here all winter
0:42:03 > 0:42:07and it's creating a fantastic habitat for wildlife conservation,
0:42:07 > 0:42:08so, yeah, it is a win-win situation.
0:42:08 > 0:42:11Is it something you're likely to continue, do more of?
0:42:11 > 0:42:13I really hope so. This year has been a trial,
0:42:13 > 0:42:15it's been a test to get used to the system,
0:42:15 > 0:42:17to get used to the cows being in the dunes,
0:42:17 > 0:42:20but it has gone really well, so we're really hoping we can expand it
0:42:20 > 0:42:22further along the dunes into other sites.
0:42:24 > 0:42:27If you thought sand dunes were an unusual place to keep livestock,
0:42:27 > 0:42:31wait until you see where Wayne grazes his Hebridean sheep.
0:42:31 > 0:42:33Battling the wind and rain,
0:42:33 > 0:42:35his flock is literally living on the edge.
0:42:36 > 0:42:39- Goodness me, this is pretty extreme, isn't it?- Hey, guys.
0:42:39 > 0:42:41Yeah, what a contrast from the bay!
0:42:41 > 0:42:44- Unbelievable. - Yeah, the Atlantic's still there,
0:42:44 > 0:42:47but different relationship with the coastline at this point.
0:42:47 > 0:42:49A bit different to the rolling Cotswold hills
0:42:49 > 0:42:50where I come from too!
0:42:50 > 0:42:52I should think it's a bit of a contrast, yeah.
0:42:52 > 0:42:54The Hebrideans, they're lovely sheep, aren't they?
0:42:54 > 0:42:55Handle it well out here?
0:42:55 > 0:42:57Yeah, they're the machines for the job here,
0:42:57 > 0:42:59if you'll forgive the term.
0:42:59 > 0:43:01They're from the Hebrides, obviously,
0:43:01 > 0:43:04and this southerly environment here is probably a bit mild for them,
0:43:04 > 0:43:07but certainly the extremity of the grazing suits them well.
0:43:07 > 0:43:09And out on the Hebrides, they would have grazed on cliffs,
0:43:09 > 0:43:11so do they get out onto these here?
0:43:11 > 0:43:12Yeah, they'll forage right down to some levels
0:43:12 > 0:43:14that would make my hair stand on end,
0:43:14 > 0:43:16put it that way. It's quite extreme.
0:43:16 > 0:43:18So are the sheep doing a good job for the ecology?
0:43:18 > 0:43:21Yeah. The main reason that keeps the maritime grasses in good condition
0:43:21 > 0:43:25is this howling wind, that Atlantic spray coming up the cliffs here,
0:43:25 > 0:43:27that's what really looks after that maritime habitat.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29But the Hebrideans come into their own when they go
0:43:29 > 0:43:31a bit further up the cliffs and they start nibbling away
0:43:31 > 0:43:33at the brambles and at the bracken
0:43:33 > 0:43:36and all the gorse that starts encroaching down the slopes,
0:43:36 > 0:43:38that's what they really start to look after for us.
0:43:38 > 0:43:40Speaking personally, I get a tremendous kick
0:43:40 > 0:43:42out of working closely with these guys.
0:43:42 > 0:43:45To pursue my farming passion in an environment like this,
0:43:45 > 0:43:49using breeds that aren't appropriate for maybe conventional farming,
0:43:49 > 0:43:52if you want to call it that, is a privilege.
0:43:52 > 0:43:54An ongoing challenge, I suppose.
0:43:54 > 0:43:58Yeah, it is, it's ever-changing, it's always going to be a challenge,
0:43:58 > 0:44:01but again it's one of those win-wins for nature and farming.
0:44:11 > 0:44:14I really love what I've seen here today.
0:44:14 > 0:44:18You've got the red Devon cattle over there in the mist on Woolacombe Bay,
0:44:18 > 0:44:20these lovely Hebrideans here on Baggy Point.
0:44:20 > 0:44:24It's a great example of how these rare and traditional breeds
0:44:24 > 0:44:27can really come into their own to help preserve and conserve
0:44:27 > 0:44:29this beautiful landscape.
0:44:29 > 0:44:31What a wonderful place to farm.
0:44:40 > 0:44:43We know spring has sprung when the aerial chasing and screaming
0:44:43 > 0:44:47of the swifts announce their return from Africa.
0:44:47 > 0:44:49We'll have to wait until early May, however,
0:44:49 > 0:44:52before they treat us to that spectacle.
0:44:57 > 0:45:00While the swifts are sunning themselves in warmer climes,
0:45:00 > 0:45:01I've come to Lewes in East Sussex,
0:45:01 > 0:45:04which sits in the South Downs National Park.
0:45:04 > 0:45:08This charming town plays host to a significant number of swifts
0:45:08 > 0:45:10who return here year upon year.
0:45:13 > 0:45:17It seems that the roofs and eves of many of the older buildings here
0:45:17 > 0:45:18make perfect nesting places.
0:45:20 > 0:45:23But swift numbers are in decline,
0:45:23 > 0:45:26dropping around a third in the last 20 years.
0:45:27 > 0:45:31One of the reasons for their decline is the renovation or demolition
0:45:31 > 0:45:33of the houses that these little birds like to call home,
0:45:33 > 0:45:36but this town is preparing for their return in a big way.
0:45:39 > 0:45:41We see quite a few flying through,
0:45:41 > 0:45:43but you never know whether these birds actually nest here
0:45:43 > 0:45:45or are just passing through and feeding.
0:45:45 > 0:45:48Michael Blencowe works for Sussex Wildlife Trust
0:45:48 > 0:45:52and has been monitoring the Lewes swift population for two years.
0:45:53 > 0:45:55Plenty of birds going in and out of there at the minute,
0:45:55 > 0:45:57into the eves of that house.
0:45:57 > 0:45:59They're not swifts, are they?
0:45:59 > 0:46:01That's house sparrows up there, also a declining bird.
0:46:01 > 0:46:04Swifts do jostle a bit when they return
0:46:04 > 0:46:05and they may push a few sparrows out.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08What is it about the roofs and eves of Lewes
0:46:08 > 0:46:10that these swifts like, do you think?
0:46:10 > 0:46:13Lewes is full of quite old buildings and in these old buildings
0:46:13 > 0:46:15you find little gaps underneath the eves here
0:46:15 > 0:46:16and these little gaps under the eves
0:46:16 > 0:46:19are the perfect places for swifts to nest.
0:46:19 > 0:46:22This house here has had swifts coming back year on year
0:46:22 > 0:46:24for about 15 years now
0:46:24 > 0:46:26and the neighbours over here have put a little swift nest box up
0:46:26 > 0:46:29and they open the windows and in the early morning,
0:46:29 > 0:46:32they blast the swift call out, the screaming swifts get blasted out
0:46:32 > 0:46:33and they try to lure these birds over,
0:46:33 > 0:46:36cos swifts tend to nest next to other swifts,
0:46:36 > 0:46:37so they're quite friendly birds.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40HIGH-PITCHED CHIRRUPING
0:46:40 > 0:46:42Swifts are extraordinary.
0:46:42 > 0:46:46They have the shortest legs of any bird relative to their body size,
0:46:46 > 0:46:50which makes it difficult for them to take off from the ground.
0:46:50 > 0:46:54And they're not only swift by name, but also by nature,
0:46:54 > 0:46:57with recorded speeds of almost 70mph.
0:46:58 > 0:47:00They're crazy.
0:47:00 > 0:47:03Swifts are basically a pair of wings and a mouth, that's all swifts are.
0:47:03 > 0:47:05They spend most of their time up there,
0:47:05 > 0:47:09so they're hunting up there for flies, they even sleep in the air,
0:47:09 > 0:47:11they mate in the air as well, they do everything up there.
0:47:11 > 0:47:13They need a nest, of course, to lay their eggs,
0:47:13 > 0:47:15so that's when they come down,
0:47:15 > 0:47:17they're tied to these little eves to lay their eggs.
0:47:17 > 0:47:19To me, the sight of swifts flying around Lewes
0:47:19 > 0:47:20is an iconic sight, really,
0:47:20 > 0:47:22the same as the castle or the white cliffs, really,
0:47:22 > 0:47:24and some of the Lewes residents got in touch with me
0:47:24 > 0:47:26and they've formed a group called the Lewes Swift Supporters
0:47:26 > 0:47:28and we're looking at monitoring swifts
0:47:28 > 0:47:30and putting up nest boxes all around the town.
0:47:30 > 0:47:33So they're actively trying to find alternative places for them to nest?
0:47:33 > 0:47:34Definitely, we want to make sure,
0:47:34 > 0:47:36when they come back from Africa every year,
0:47:36 > 0:47:38the swifts have got plenty of holes to nest in.
0:47:41 > 0:47:44And in keeping with this idea of a home within a home,
0:47:44 > 0:47:48down the road in Arlington, Jenny and Duncan McCutcheon
0:47:48 > 0:47:50have come up with a clever new invention.
0:47:52 > 0:47:55Houses have become more and more bird, bat-proof
0:47:55 > 0:47:57as part of legislation,
0:47:57 > 0:48:01so I wanted to design something that could be incorporated quickly
0:48:01 > 0:48:04into a building, so I came up with the Bird Brick House.
0:48:04 > 0:48:06I'm looking at this wall -
0:48:06 > 0:48:08I can't see any bird boxes.
0:48:08 > 0:48:11There is one bird box there
0:48:11 > 0:48:13- and there's another one up there. - Here?- Yep.
0:48:13 > 0:48:14That is a sparrow box.
0:48:14 > 0:48:16So it's literally integral into the actual wall of your house?
0:48:16 > 0:48:18It is, yeah.
0:48:18 > 0:48:19The wall makes it a cliff face,
0:48:19 > 0:48:23so they're a lot less prone to predators, because obviously
0:48:23 > 0:48:27it's very hard to target species using the actual bird box.
0:48:27 > 0:48:31What's it like living with birds actually in your walls?
0:48:31 > 0:48:33- I'm thinking...- To be honest, you don't really notice them,
0:48:33 > 0:48:37but the one actually there has a blue tit every morning.
0:48:37 > 0:48:39You hear it, it must be at the hole chirping to go out,
0:48:39 > 0:48:41then it flies out and that's really nice, actually.
0:48:41 > 0:48:44So you literally are sharing your home with some feathered friends?
0:48:44 > 0:48:46- Yeah.- Yeah.
0:48:46 > 0:48:48Well, they're very discreet from the outside.
0:48:48 > 0:48:51Let's see how you've put these together, because I am intrigued.
0:48:51 > 0:48:54- OK.- Lead the way. - Come along to the workshop.
0:48:55 > 0:48:59In order for builders and developers to get on board with his design,
0:48:59 > 0:49:03Duncan knew it had to be simple and fit in with building regulations.
0:49:04 > 0:49:09That's sparrows, blue tits, great tits.
0:49:09 > 0:49:10That there is a bat box.
0:49:10 > 0:49:12That there is a swift box
0:49:12 > 0:49:16and this is a sparrow/blue tit terrace box, so it's divided in two.
0:49:16 > 0:49:18I can show you inside.
0:49:18 > 0:49:21That there, that's got a central divider,
0:49:21 > 0:49:22so you've got two compartments,
0:49:22 > 0:49:24then this is the swift box.
0:49:24 > 0:49:27The bottom isn't used, the top is used, and that's a nest cup,
0:49:27 > 0:49:29which speeds...
0:49:29 > 0:49:32So you've even fitted it like a fitted kitchen?
0:49:32 > 0:49:36That's right, and that apparently makes the swifts take it up sooner.
0:49:36 > 0:49:37Lots of people will be watching this thinking,
0:49:37 > 0:49:40"I'd like that, but my house is 100 years old."
0:49:40 > 0:49:43Most of the time, you can fit a bird box one way or another.
0:49:45 > 0:49:48Duncan's award-winning design has seen a number of lodgers
0:49:48 > 0:49:50over the past few years
0:49:50 > 0:49:54and already provided nesting places for the swifts of Lewes.
0:49:56 > 0:49:58Building bird boxes into the very fabric of our homes
0:49:58 > 0:50:01means we literally can live at one with nature
0:50:01 > 0:50:04and who knows? With more places to nest,
0:50:04 > 0:50:06we may well see more swifts in the sky.
0:50:10 > 0:50:13Large or small, sometimes we all need to take shelter
0:50:13 > 0:50:14from what the weather throws at us.
0:50:14 > 0:50:17Here's the Countryfile forecast for the week ahead.
0:51:11 > 0:51:14Whilst Helen's been helping out our feathered friends,
0:51:14 > 0:51:17I've been discovering the rolling South Downs
0:51:17 > 0:51:18and their stunning views.
0:51:20 > 0:51:21Until recently,
0:51:21 > 0:51:26people with limited mobility had difficulty accessing this landscape,
0:51:26 > 0:51:29the terrain itself presenting impossible challenges.
0:51:32 > 0:51:36Well, these days, the South Downs Way is accessible to all
0:51:36 > 0:51:40and that's all thanks to Obama here, to his owner, Simon,
0:51:40 > 0:51:43who just happens to be a superb inventor
0:51:43 > 0:51:47and, Simon, you have created this futuristic-looking cart.
0:51:47 > 0:51:50Now, just talk us... It's called the iBex, isn't it?
0:51:50 > 0:51:53- iBex after Bex, who was one of my earliest test drivers.- Right.
0:51:54 > 0:51:56It means anyone using any wheelchair
0:51:56 > 0:51:59- can go across pretty much any terrain.- OK.
0:51:59 > 0:52:02It also takes people who aren't using wheelchairs.
0:52:02 > 0:52:04Is it right that this is the only vehicle that's actually
0:52:04 > 0:52:06allowed on the South Downs Way?
0:52:06 > 0:52:08Certainly the only one that can do the whole distance
0:52:08 > 0:52:11with a wheelchair. I've done from Winchester to Eastbourne
0:52:11 > 0:52:13- with a wheelchair on this. - Have you really?
0:52:13 > 0:52:16So where does Obama come into the mix, then?
0:52:16 > 0:52:17How long has he been with you?
0:52:17 > 0:52:20- I got Obama January 2009.- Right.
0:52:20 > 0:52:23- He's a pain in the neck! - MATT CHORTLES
0:52:23 > 0:52:25You look great together, you really do.
0:52:25 > 0:52:28Obviously, the whole reason for coming out here
0:52:28 > 0:52:31- on the South Downs is we are going to go for a trek.- Yep.
0:52:31 > 0:52:35We have got the most superb person to trek along with us.
0:52:35 > 0:52:38Sarah Piercy won the London Wheelchair Marathon
0:52:38 > 0:52:41at her first attempt in 2000.
0:52:41 > 0:52:44OK, Sarah, you tell us the best way of doing this, then.
0:52:44 > 0:52:46'Today, her journey will be more sedate
0:52:46 > 0:52:49'and she'll be able to take in the scenery.'
0:52:49 > 0:52:50Yep, thank you.
0:52:50 > 0:52:53- Are we all good there, Simon? - Yep, that's good.
0:52:53 > 0:52:56Simon has spent years finessing the buggy
0:52:56 > 0:52:58so that Obama's passengers, like Sarah,
0:52:58 > 0:53:00can safely enjoy the ride.
0:53:03 > 0:53:05He likes to have a little nibble at you, doesn't he?
0:53:05 > 0:53:09He's just interfering. He's being a complete pain,
0:53:09 > 0:53:12because that's life.
0:53:12 > 0:53:14What do you make of these two, Sarah?
0:53:14 > 0:53:17Oh, they're great companions, absolutely. They're great fun.
0:53:17 > 0:53:19I tell you what, I don't know how many miles
0:53:19 > 0:53:21we're going to be travelling, but it's going to be fun.
0:53:21 > 0:53:22Oh, absolutely.
0:53:23 > 0:53:25Listen, I'll get round the front,
0:53:25 > 0:53:29because I think we're going to have a little lead here,
0:53:29 > 0:53:33but obviously Obama is very well suited to this,
0:53:33 > 0:53:37but if the worst-case scenario does happen and he is going to bolt,
0:53:37 > 0:53:38what do we do?
0:53:38 > 0:53:43There's an instant-release system. Sarah's got the rope here
0:53:43 > 0:53:46and that means that she can release the pony instantly
0:53:46 > 0:53:47and when it's released,
0:53:47 > 0:53:49you haven't got a problem, there's no issue.
0:53:49 > 0:53:52- Who leads the way?- You do.- OK.
0:53:52 > 0:53:53Good boy.
0:53:55 > 0:53:56Good boy!
0:54:06 > 0:54:09- How's it feeling back there, Sarah? - Yes, it's fantastic.- Feeling OK?
0:54:09 > 0:54:12It's really comfy, yep.
0:54:12 > 0:54:14I tell you what, those cows don't half like you.
0:54:14 > 0:54:16Oh, I know, it's quite weird, isn't it?
0:54:20 > 0:54:23Now, Sarah, obviously you're used to getting out and about,
0:54:23 > 0:54:24you're incredibly active,
0:54:24 > 0:54:27but for others that maybe aren't so active and are in your situation,
0:54:27 > 0:54:30what would you say to those people if they're watching this at home
0:54:30 > 0:54:31and they fancy a go?
0:54:31 > 0:54:35Well, it's a great opportunity to get out and see the wonderful sights
0:54:35 > 0:54:38all over the UK, it's just incredible
0:54:38 > 0:54:41and it's safe and it's just great fun.
0:54:41 > 0:54:43- Yeah.- It's about access,
0:54:43 > 0:54:47it's about getting anyone to the places that we all take for granted.
0:54:47 > 0:54:51It's saying anybody can go anywhere
0:54:51 > 0:54:53and have fun and enjoy it.
0:54:53 > 0:54:55It looks like it, it really does.
0:54:55 > 0:54:57Come on, Obama. Come on, bud.
0:54:57 > 0:55:01Come on, come on, come on, there, now.
0:55:01 > 0:55:03And it doesn't all have to be at this pace.
0:55:03 > 0:55:05Obama has gears.
0:55:05 > 0:55:09Are you up for a little trot? Oh, you are! It's happening already!
0:55:09 > 0:55:11I can't keep up!
0:55:11 > 0:55:13It's a gallop!
0:55:19 > 0:55:22Hello, gang, you look like you've got your hands full. Hi, everyone!
0:55:22 > 0:55:25This is Obama, this is Simon and this is Sarah.
0:55:25 > 0:55:28Hi, Simon, Sarah and Obama. Right, where are we headed?
0:55:28 > 0:55:30Well, Eastbourne. It's 35 miles away.
0:55:32 > 0:55:34Can I jump on the back with you, Sarah?
0:55:34 > 0:55:35Hey, listen, why not?
0:55:35 > 0:55:38But we're in good hands, Obama knows the way and we'll just, well,
0:55:38 > 0:55:40- head down and crack on, really. - Plod on.
0:55:40 > 0:55:42That's about it for today from Countryfile.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44Yeah, next week, Adam will be in Snowdonia,
0:55:44 > 0:55:47finding out what life is like farming the craggy outcrops,
0:55:47 > 0:55:50- but until then, bye-bye.- See you!
0:55:50 > 0:55:52- Come on, Obama, lead the way.- Good boy.