0:00:06 > 0:00:07This is Ayrshire.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11It's Scotland's dairy and we're here for a cheesy feast.
0:00:29 > 0:00:30MOOING
0:00:30 > 0:00:32Hello, and a very warm welcome to Landward.
0:00:32 > 0:00:34In a moment, we'll be catching up with Euan
0:00:34 > 0:00:37as he joins a team of researchers trying to establish the health
0:00:37 > 0:00:40of Scotland's population of mountain hares.
0:00:40 > 0:00:44They are beautiful creatures, but not always the easiest to spot.
0:00:44 > 0:00:46But first, here's what else is coming up on the programme.
0:00:46 > 0:00:49I investigate the impact the poor summer may be having
0:00:49 > 0:00:51on the health of our beef cattle.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53You lose body condition,
0:00:53 > 0:00:55there'll be a knock-on effect come calving time.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58You obviously have calves at possibly lower birth weight,
0:00:58 > 0:01:00cows that have lower milk production levels,
0:01:00 > 0:01:03so it's a huge knock-on effect all the way through.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06Sarah find out how to make leather goods from salmon.
0:01:06 > 0:01:07So, salmon leather,
0:01:07 > 0:01:10it's the second strongest leather in the world.
0:01:10 > 0:01:12You've also got... It takes a short period of time -
0:01:12 > 0:01:14it's only about a week to tan.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17And Nick is in Ayr toon centre with the Landward food van.
0:01:17 > 0:01:19Best Scottish cheese in show.
0:01:19 > 0:01:22Yes. This is Barwheys Dairy - brilliant mature cheddar.
0:01:27 > 0:01:29First, mountain hare are a native species,
0:01:29 > 0:01:33but we don't know how many there are of them.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36That's causing problems for landowners and conservation bodies,
0:01:36 > 0:01:38as Euan's been finding out.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43The mountain hare is a truly beautiful animal,
0:01:43 > 0:01:46turning from brown to white in winter
0:01:46 > 0:01:50to give it perfect camouflage on the snowy Scottish hills.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53They thrive on grouse moors, where active management
0:01:53 > 0:01:57leads to lots of young heather for them to eat and few predators.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01But hares can cause problems.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05They damage trees, eat crops, and some gamekeepers believe
0:02:05 > 0:02:08they spread ticks and disease to grouse.
0:02:08 > 0:02:12So, every year, tens of thousands of hares are legally shot
0:02:12 > 0:02:15for sport and population control.
0:02:15 > 0:02:16But the problem is,
0:02:16 > 0:02:19nobody knows just how many hares we have in Scotland
0:02:19 > 0:02:23and if too many are being killed unnecessarily.
0:02:23 > 0:02:26In order to find out just how many hares there are,
0:02:26 > 0:02:29scientists need to know how best to count them.
0:02:29 > 0:02:31And it's no easy task.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34Scott, how are you doing? Morning, Euan. Nice to meet you.
0:02:34 > 0:02:36So, we're going to go out to some traps, are we?
0:02:36 > 0:02:39Yeah, we've got 100 traps. 100? Yeah.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42'Scott Newey from the James Hutton Institute
0:02:42 > 0:02:46'is testing the success of trapping as a method of counting.'
0:02:46 > 0:02:47So, why is it so difficult
0:02:47 > 0:02:50to get an estimate for the size of the population?
0:02:50 > 0:02:52Well, mountain hares are largely nocturnal.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56During the daytime, they tend to lie up in the heather
0:02:56 > 0:02:57and keep out of sight,
0:02:57 > 0:03:01so they show these huge changes in numbers from year to year,
0:03:01 > 0:03:03so over the course of nine to ten years,
0:03:03 > 0:03:07populations can change from a few hares per square kilometre
0:03:07 > 0:03:10up to hundreds of hares per square kilometre.
0:03:10 > 0:03:13'Because of the uncertainty over hare numbers,
0:03:13 > 0:03:15'some conservation groups have been calling
0:03:15 > 0:03:18'for a temporary ban on culling.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21'So far, sporting estates have resisted that suggestion.'
0:03:23 > 0:03:26They can get a bit stressed when we approach the trap.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29'On the hill, we have our first hare.'
0:03:29 > 0:03:32They can go quite quickly when they go, so...
0:03:32 > 0:03:36OK, I'll take it. And...
0:03:38 > 0:03:41Wow. OK. So, this is a recapture.
0:03:41 > 0:03:44You can see the little ear tags in the ear. Pretty unfazed.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47I see what you mean about it being quick!
0:03:47 > 0:03:49OK.
0:03:49 > 0:03:53'Next, Scott checks the ear tags.
0:03:53 > 0:03:58'He'll also check its sex, measure its hind foot
0:03:58 > 0:04:00'and weigh it.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04'Once the examination's over, it's time to let the hare go.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08'In total, four were caught overnight in Scott's traps.
0:04:08 > 0:04:13'His next counting method isn't quite so cute, though.
0:04:13 > 0:04:14'Its dung.'
0:04:14 > 0:04:18OK, so what are you looking for? We're looking for and counting
0:04:18 > 0:04:20and removing all of the hare pellets,
0:04:20 > 0:04:23but we also remove all the other different types
0:04:23 > 0:04:25of pellets that are here. So, which is which?
0:04:25 > 0:04:28I've got a selection. Kind of, long, thin ones.
0:04:28 > 0:04:31So, that's the red grouse. And the round, solid ones?
0:04:31 > 0:04:32And that's the mountain here.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36'We're going to leave Scott to finish checking his hare poo
0:04:36 > 0:04:38'because the next counting method happens at night.'
0:04:38 > 0:04:40Well, here we are, still on the hill.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43It's dark, it's windy and it's cold
0:04:43 > 0:04:46and, for this technique, we're going to use one of these.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49My guide for this is Kathy Fletcher
0:04:49 > 0:04:51from the Game and Wildlife Conservation Trust.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54You can usually see eye shine off them.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56How effective is this lamping technique?
0:04:56 > 0:04:58Well, it's been quite effective,
0:04:58 > 0:05:00but you can only see maybe about 100 metres.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03So, presumably, this is kit and techniques
0:05:03 > 0:05:05that farmers, gamekeepers, will be using all the time.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07Yeah. Yeah, lamps are quite common.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09Quite often, they're attached to the vehicles
0:05:09 > 0:05:13but, because not all the areas that you might want to survey for hares
0:05:13 > 0:05:16have vehicle tracks, we're trying the method
0:05:16 > 0:05:17just with a hand-held lamp.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20OK. So, onward up the hill. Yeah.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24Unfortunately, we don't have any luck with the lamp tonight.
0:05:24 > 0:05:25But we're not beaten yet.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28'Time for the next method.'
0:05:28 > 0:05:30Well, this is a bit more like it.
0:05:30 > 0:05:35Thermal imaging cameras, SAS stuff, out on the hillside - terrific.
0:05:35 > 0:05:38We're looking for the heat signature of the hares
0:05:38 > 0:05:40so, on this, the setting it's on at the moment,
0:05:40 > 0:05:44black is the hot, so we're looking for a black blob.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48It could also be grouse roosting so, if it stays stationary,
0:05:48 > 0:05:49we don't count it.
0:05:49 > 0:05:51But if it moves, like, hops like a bunny,
0:05:51 > 0:05:53then we write it down as a hare.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56So why is this better with this piece of kit than lamping,
0:05:56 > 0:06:00apart from being more fun and more expensive? We...
0:06:00 > 0:06:01Our experience so far is that
0:06:01 > 0:06:04you can see further with the thermal imaging than with the lamp.
0:06:04 > 0:06:07So we get a better idea of the number of hares,
0:06:07 > 0:06:10obviously being able to see more of the population.
0:06:10 > 0:06:14And as we scan the landscape, we catch sight of the elusive hare.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17It might only be a small, black, fuzzy dot,
0:06:17 > 0:06:20but it's exciting all the same.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22I've had a great day out on the hill today,
0:06:22 > 0:06:25looking at all the different techniques for surveying hares.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27But it's early days yet in this project,
0:06:27 > 0:06:30it's still got a year to go before they finally find out
0:06:30 > 0:06:33the best technique for counting hare numbers.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37In the meantime, the controversy over hare culling continues.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40Back in the summer at the Royal Highland Show,
0:06:40 > 0:06:43we got to taste and enjoy the winning entry
0:06:43 > 0:06:45in the Best Speciality Cheese competition.
0:06:45 > 0:06:49Our Nick is so passionate about local cheeses
0:06:49 > 0:06:53that he wanted to weave his magic with some in the food van.
0:06:53 > 0:06:57He headed on down to Maybole to collect the champion cheese.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09Great cheese needs great milk and, to get great milk,
0:07:09 > 0:07:11you need great cows.
0:07:11 > 0:07:13But you need more than that.
0:07:13 > 0:07:14To make truly great cheese,
0:07:14 > 0:07:17you need dedication, passion
0:07:17 > 0:07:19and be willing to take a few risks.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26There's no doubt that Tricia Bey
0:07:26 > 0:07:29has all three of these qualities in spades.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35She was a high-flying London-based businesswoman
0:07:35 > 0:07:38until deciding that a life in the country making cheese
0:07:38 > 0:07:41was just what she wanted.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44Tricia, hi, good to meet you again. Good to see you, yeah.
0:07:44 > 0:07:47So, these are your cattle? Yeah. Tell me about them.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50So, these are all pedigree Ayrshire cows.
0:07:50 > 0:07:55I started building the herd in 2008 and now we've got up to a nice size.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59We've got mothers and daughters and granddaughters here in the herd
0:07:59 > 0:08:00milking this morning.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02Why Ayrshires?
0:08:02 > 0:08:05So, when I was building the dairy,
0:08:05 > 0:08:07I was trying to resurrect our traditional cheese-making
0:08:07 > 0:08:09here in Ayrshire and, of course, in the old days,
0:08:09 > 0:08:12all the cows would have been Ayrshire.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15But I was also blessed by the fact that these cows, this breed,
0:08:15 > 0:08:18produces beautiful milk, really, really good-quality milk,
0:08:18 > 0:08:20and cheese-makers all over the world say that, actually,
0:08:20 > 0:08:22it's the best milk for cheese.
0:08:22 > 0:08:24So I'm very lucky in that respect.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28Milking complete, it's time to visit the dairy.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36Tricia helped design this and,
0:08:36 > 0:08:39despite making her first cheese just five years ago,
0:08:39 > 0:08:41she's a quick learner.
0:08:41 > 0:08:43Not sure I can say the same about me, though.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48So, what are we doing now? Why am I stirring?
0:08:48 > 0:08:52What we're doing now is we'll put the rennet into the milk
0:08:52 > 0:08:56and the rennet is the enzyme that will start to coagulate the milk.
0:08:56 > 0:09:00So it will start to form a curd and that will start, really,
0:09:00 > 0:09:02the main cheese-making process.
0:09:10 > 0:09:15How did you learn how to do this? So, I...
0:09:15 > 0:09:20I went to learn with a very wise cheese-maker
0:09:20 > 0:09:24up near the Kyle of Lochalsh.
0:09:24 > 0:09:27Mm-hm. So I learnt the very basics of cheese-making there
0:09:27 > 0:09:29but, as she says, and everyone would say,
0:09:29 > 0:09:33all you're doing is learning the mechanics of the process there.
0:09:33 > 0:09:38Um... It's not really until you start working with your own milk
0:09:38 > 0:09:41do you really start learning what your cheese is going to do.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45And there's certainly a lot of working with the milk to be done.
0:09:45 > 0:09:48It's a hot and steamy business -
0:09:48 > 0:09:51you definitely won't need the gym after a day working here.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55The whole cheese-making process takes about six and a half hours.
0:09:55 > 0:09:57There's separating the curds and whey,
0:09:57 > 0:09:59cheddering and putting it on the press.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05And this is where the cheese gets to mature -
0:10:05 > 0:10:08sitting in here for between 12 and 15 months
0:10:08 > 0:10:10before checking to see if they're ready.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12We're looking at the smell,
0:10:12 > 0:10:15we're looking at the texture of the cheese,
0:10:15 > 0:10:17and then, of course, what the flavour is like -
0:10:17 > 0:10:19going to see whether we think it's ready to be released.
0:10:19 > 0:10:21So it comes out like this...
0:10:21 > 0:10:23Wow, look at the colour.
0:10:23 > 0:10:24It's yellow. I know.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28The clover and the green summer grass comes through into the milk
0:10:28 > 0:10:31and then, as it matures, that kind of yellow chlorophyll
0:10:31 > 0:10:35intensifies in it and you get this beautiful, bright yellow cheese.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37That is delicious. Oh.
0:10:37 > 0:10:43Really complex, rounded, a great finish to it, you know?
0:10:43 > 0:10:46There's nothing jaggy in there.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50It's very, very...well made. Thank you.
0:10:50 > 0:10:53And there's a lot more where that came from.
0:10:53 > 0:10:57As I travel round Scotland, I'm always thrilled to meet people
0:10:57 > 0:11:00who take great pride in the food that they produce.
0:11:00 > 0:11:03But for people like Tricia, it's more than just food -
0:11:03 > 0:11:07it's culture, it's history, it's a way of life,
0:11:07 > 0:11:10and I would love to think that the people of Scotland
0:11:10 > 0:11:13would eat more artisan-made cheeses like this.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16So, later in the programme, I'm going to be serving up
0:11:16 > 0:11:19some cheesy treats to the good citizens of Ayr.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28If you know of any great Scottish producers
0:11:28 > 0:11:30you think should feature on the programme,
0:11:30 > 0:11:32get in touch via our Facebook page or e-mail...
0:11:38 > 0:11:41As we travel about Scotland, we like to stop and ask the folk
0:11:41 > 0:11:44we meet on the street what they love about the local area.
0:11:44 > 0:11:46As we're in Ayrshire this week,
0:11:46 > 0:11:49we've come to the town after which the county is named - Ayr.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51Now, I'm convinced there's some sort of connection
0:11:51 > 0:11:54to a famous Scottish writer with this place, but...
0:11:54 > 0:11:56I can't think, for the life of me, who it is.
0:12:04 > 0:12:06What's the name of the famous writer from here?
0:12:08 > 0:12:10No? OK. Thanks for your help.
0:12:11 > 0:12:13Who's the famous writer that's associated with Ayr?
0:12:13 > 0:12:16I know Robert Burns, obviously.
0:12:16 > 0:12:17Rabbie Burns.
0:12:17 > 0:12:18Robert Burns, I would say.
0:12:18 > 0:12:21Who's the most famous person from Ayr? Rabbie Burns.
0:12:21 > 0:12:22Robert Burns, it is.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25But they don't make a huge thing about Robert Burns in Ayr.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31What sort of things should I experience?
0:12:31 > 0:12:34If I've never been here and I've got one day, a couple of hours,
0:12:34 > 0:12:36what should I do? Oh, good grief...
0:12:36 > 0:12:39There's always the Tam O'Shanter pub with the thatched roof.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45You need to go to the beach. The beach is fantastic in Ayr.
0:12:45 > 0:12:46It really is. It's beautiful.
0:12:46 > 0:12:49I would go to Prestwick, if I was going for something to eat.
0:12:49 > 0:12:52That sounds awful, doesn't it? LAUGHTER
0:12:52 > 0:12:55Enjoyed your programme. Oh, thank you.
0:12:57 > 0:12:59To get the Ayr experience - like,
0:12:59 > 0:13:01"You must do this, you must experience this,
0:13:01 > 0:13:04"you must taste this, you must drink this" or whatever.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06What should I do?
0:13:06 > 0:13:07Where do you come from, Dougie?
0:13:07 > 0:13:09I come from Inchinnan in Renfrewshire.
0:13:09 > 0:13:11I'd go back to Inchinnan, if I was you.
0:13:11 > 0:13:13SHE LAUGHS
0:13:15 > 0:13:18Now, I think this is one of the best things about Ayr -
0:13:18 > 0:13:21Corney and Barrow wine merchant, established in 1766,
0:13:21 > 0:13:25ten years before America declared independence.
0:13:25 > 0:13:28I would like to imagine that Robert Burns used to come down here
0:13:28 > 0:13:31and share a glass of wine with his pals nearly 200 years ago.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33It's a lovely thought, isn't it?
0:13:37 > 0:13:41We'll be back later, but now, we're heading across country
0:13:41 > 0:13:45to find Sarah in Dundee with a very fishy tale.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48There are lots of things you can do with fish -
0:13:48 > 0:13:51catch them, eat them, make cute movies about finding them.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54But what about wearing them?
0:13:59 > 0:14:02Here in Dundee, that's exactly what they're doing -
0:14:02 > 0:14:05turning salmon skins into leather.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08Peter? Hello. Good morning. How are you doing? Good.
0:14:08 > 0:14:10I won't shake your hand because I think you're covered in...
0:14:10 > 0:14:11Guts - understandable, yeah!
0:14:11 > 0:14:15'Peter Ananin is the founder of the Tayside Tannery.'
0:14:15 > 0:14:18Today, we're going to be showing you how to make fish leather.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21Is this the first step? This is the first step, taking off the scales.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24I've got some prepared for you. I'm going to get a shot, am I?
0:14:24 > 0:14:26You're going to get a shot as well. Fab.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28Here's your skin. Right, talk me through it.
0:14:28 > 0:14:30And your gloves. Mm-hm.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32And I'm going to give you this knife as well.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34I definitely need the gloves. Right.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36So, why salmon leather?
0:14:36 > 0:14:37So, salmon leather,
0:14:37 > 0:14:39it's the second strongest leather in the world.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41You've also got... It takes a short period of time,
0:14:41 > 0:14:44it's only about a week to tan, and we can use local tanning agents
0:14:44 > 0:14:46from oak bark and peat as well. Fantastic.
0:14:46 > 0:14:51So, basically, what you're doing is going up against the grain.
0:14:51 > 0:14:53So is that this way? That's it, yeah.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56And then you'll see the scales will flake off.
0:14:56 > 0:14:59One way, they won't, one way, they will. OK.
0:14:59 > 0:15:02And you're basically just going along like that.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06And why did you decide to base yourselves in Dundee?
0:15:06 > 0:15:08So, we're based in Dundee -
0:15:08 > 0:15:12part of the thing is that we're trying to use waste products,
0:15:12 > 0:15:13so locally, up in Arbroath,
0:15:13 > 0:15:17we get the waste fishskins from the smoked salmon industry...
0:15:17 > 0:15:19Mm-hm. ..so they're normally thrown away.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21The other reason we picked Dundee
0:15:21 > 0:15:24was that it's got such a rich kind of historical past
0:15:24 > 0:15:28of industry and crafts, so wanting to revive these things.
0:15:28 > 0:15:30Fantastic.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34Yes, Dundee isn't only famous for jute, jam and journalism -
0:15:34 > 0:15:38leather-making was also an important trade.
0:15:38 > 0:15:39As early as the 1500s,
0:15:39 > 0:15:43the glovers and shoemakers were creating quality goods.
0:15:43 > 0:15:47In the 19th century, local tanneries produced leather belts
0:15:47 > 0:15:50to help drive the weaving machines -
0:15:50 > 0:15:52and Dundee's whalers also hunted seals,
0:15:52 > 0:15:57whose skins were turned into leather by an enterprising shipbuilder.
0:15:57 > 0:15:58What are we trying to make today?
0:15:58 > 0:16:01So, today, we're going to do something nice and simple -
0:16:01 > 0:16:04we're going to make a bracelet, so I've got some of the ones
0:16:04 > 0:16:07that I've been making here, so you're going to make one like that.
0:16:07 > 0:16:11Oh! Yeah. That's... Nice and simple. Nice and simple to get you started.
0:16:11 > 0:16:12Right. How am I doing?
0:16:12 > 0:16:15Looks good, yep. Am I? Yeah. There's fish - there's scales everywhere.
0:16:15 > 0:16:18That's all right, don't worry, it's just practice.
0:16:21 > 0:16:22Once the scales have been removed,
0:16:22 > 0:16:26the skins are washed, put into tanning drums -
0:16:26 > 0:16:28recycled washing machines -
0:16:28 > 0:16:32hung up to dry, softened, and then they're ready to use.
0:16:32 > 0:16:34So, next thing is, you're going to cut it out.
0:16:34 > 0:16:36So, we've already drawn this out for you. Mm-hm.
0:16:36 > 0:16:38There's your scissors. Right, get cutting. Yeah.
0:16:38 > 0:16:40So, what other products do you make?
0:16:40 > 0:16:43So, some of the other products that we've been making
0:16:43 > 0:16:45are some fishskin wallets. Mm-hm.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49We've been making knife sheaths for traditional sgian-dhus. Mm-hm.
0:16:49 > 0:16:50That's made locally.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54We've been making some earrings as well. Nice earrings.
0:16:54 > 0:16:56I know it's part of a social enterprise... Mm-hm.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58..so, it's quite small-scale at the moment.
0:16:58 > 0:17:01What is the ultimate aim? Global domination with salmon leather?
0:17:01 > 0:17:03No, no, not at all - it's cottage industry,
0:17:03 > 0:17:06which is what we're really trying to revive -
0:17:06 > 0:17:08providing people with local jobs,
0:17:08 > 0:17:11using local resources and keeping it local, really.
0:17:14 > 0:17:18Then we attach the toggle, measure the size
0:17:18 > 0:17:19and...ta-da!
0:17:19 > 0:17:22Thank you, Peter. You've done a great job.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25So, there you have it - a one-of-a-kind Mack creation.
0:17:25 > 0:17:30It's a craft that uses waste products, it revives an old trade
0:17:30 > 0:17:32and brings rural skills back to the city.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37From salmon to a more traditional source of leather goods -
0:17:37 > 0:17:39cattle.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42Earlier in the series, we heard that Orcadian farmers
0:17:42 > 0:17:44were having to ship cattle off the island
0:17:44 > 0:17:47because they didn't have enough grazing.
0:17:47 > 0:17:50Now, on the mainland, I've been hearing about another problem
0:17:50 > 0:17:54caused by the bad weather earlier in the year.
0:17:54 > 0:17:59In these bales and in the pit behind, covered in tyres, is silage -
0:17:59 > 0:18:01which is essentially pickled grass -
0:18:01 > 0:18:03and that's used to feed livestock
0:18:03 > 0:18:06during the long and cold winter months.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09To make silage, grass is cut in the summer
0:18:09 > 0:18:12and then either baled or wrapped in plastic
0:18:12 > 0:18:15or compressed in a silage pit to keep the air out.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17Keeping the air out is vital.
0:18:17 > 0:18:19In oxygen-free conditions,
0:18:19 > 0:18:23bacteria turns the sugars in the grass into acids.
0:18:23 > 0:18:25The grass ferments, turning into silage,
0:18:25 > 0:18:28and is thus preserved for use throughout the winter.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38Good morning, how's it going? All right, yourself?
0:18:38 > 0:18:39Yeah, very well. Good.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42'Graham Lofthouse farms near Galashiels in the Borders.'
0:18:42 > 0:18:45What have we got here? Cows just getting fed the silage this morning.
0:18:45 > 0:18:46So, breakfast time, basically.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48How important is silage
0:18:48 > 0:18:50to keeping the kind of, you know, balance of the...
0:18:50 > 0:18:52nutrients balanced during the winter months?
0:18:52 > 0:18:53Yeah, it's imperative.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56I mean, we're looking for these cows to be in perfect body condition
0:18:56 > 0:18:57right through the winter.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00Ideally, we want them to be nice and fit,
0:19:00 > 0:19:01like this big cow in front of us here,
0:19:01 > 0:19:04lose a bit of body condition through the winter,
0:19:04 > 0:19:06and then we're wanting them to calve
0:19:06 > 0:19:08to what we call a body condition score 2.5,
0:19:08 > 0:19:11which is not too lean, not too fat - just perfect for calving,
0:19:11 > 0:19:13so they'll be able to produce a lot of colostrum
0:19:13 > 0:19:15for their calves at birth.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17So, yeah, the nutrition's imperative to us.
0:19:17 > 0:19:20Now, as a farmer... Yeah. ..silage is home-made... Yes, it is.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22..so, you don't have to buy it... No, we don't.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24..so, I'd imagine it's hugely important from your business
0:19:24 > 0:19:27point of view as well. Yes, it is the cheapest feed we have on-farm.
0:19:27 > 0:19:29It's home-produced in itself.
0:19:29 > 0:19:32It's also not very expensive to produce for ourselves, like.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35Yeah. But if it's low in energy or low in protein,
0:19:35 > 0:19:37then that does cause problems.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41And this year, lots of silage is really low in protein.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45The cold spring is thought to be the major cause.
0:19:45 > 0:19:50Basil Lowman is from the farming advisory body SAC Consulting.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53Cattle, sheep, even horses, just like us,
0:19:53 > 0:19:57require protein if they're to thrive and perform well.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00Why, in particular, is that a major issue, then?
0:20:00 > 0:20:05Because we can't really, easily, by looking at silage,
0:20:05 > 0:20:07tell how high it is in protein
0:20:07 > 0:20:09and, as an example, I've got two samples here...
0:20:09 > 0:20:11and I've got to read the label because they're so similar.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15That one is high... OK. ..has a high protein level,
0:20:15 > 0:20:18would meet all the requirements of cattle,
0:20:18 > 0:20:22sheep and what have you, and this one is a very low-protein
0:20:22 > 0:20:25silage, er, and it's impossible to tell by sniffing them...
0:20:25 > 0:20:26Smell the same. ..looking at them,
0:20:26 > 0:20:30wringing them out, whatever you like, what the protein content is.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33It's interesting that it's not the cattle who are going to starve,
0:20:33 > 0:20:36it's the bugs in their rumen.
0:20:36 > 0:20:40If you like, cattle are just big vats bubbling away,
0:20:40 > 0:20:43like a brewer, breaking down the silage,
0:20:43 > 0:20:47and it's the by-products of these bugs which actually feed the cattle.
0:20:47 > 0:20:48Without enough protein,
0:20:48 > 0:20:52the cow's whole digestive system can grind to a halt,
0:20:52 > 0:20:57and the poor beasts can become stuffed with undigested food.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00That's why farmers are being urged to test their silage.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02The only way, really,
0:21:02 > 0:21:05to get an answer quickly enough to stop the animal suffering
0:21:05 > 0:21:09in terms of poor performance - and possibly even dying -
0:21:09 > 0:21:13is to actually get the silage analysed as soon as possible
0:21:13 > 0:21:16and, in particular, pay attention to its protein content.
0:21:18 > 0:21:20And that's exactly what I'm doing now.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23With a little help, I'm collecting a sample of Graham's silage
0:21:23 > 0:21:26to be analysed at the SAC's lab near Penicuik.
0:21:28 > 0:21:29KNOCK AT DOOR
0:21:30 > 0:21:32Willie, how are you? Not bad. Good to see you.
0:21:32 > 0:21:35Come in. I've got my sample here from Bankhouse Farm. Right.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37'Willie Gibson is in charge of testing.'
0:21:37 > 0:21:39What's the next process, then?
0:21:39 > 0:21:42We've got to open up the sample, empty it out, thoroughly mix it.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44So, do you want to do that yourself? I could do it, yes. Why not?
0:21:48 > 0:21:52After a good mix, the silage is formed into a clingfilm sausage,
0:21:52 > 0:21:56and we put it into a special scanner that assesses the sample.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00While we wait for the results, animal nutritionist Colin Worth
0:22:00 > 0:22:04explains why low-protein silage costs farmers.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08In a normal year, they would be feeding their silage to appetite
0:22:08 > 0:22:11and then topping that up with some barley.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14This year, because the silage is lower in protein,
0:22:14 > 0:22:17they're going to have to be thinking about, yes, using some barley,
0:22:17 > 0:22:19but also some protein supplements.
0:22:19 > 0:22:21And that can be pricey.
0:22:21 > 0:22:23Protein is expensive - that's the thing, you know?
0:22:23 > 0:22:26Usually, it's home-grown cereals - you buy in the protein.
0:22:26 > 0:22:28So, that's the expensive part of the ration.
0:22:28 > 0:22:32So, will Graham be laying out extra cash?
0:22:32 > 0:22:36The results are in, and the sample had 7% protein -
0:22:36 > 0:22:40not great news for Graham, he was hoping for between 13 and 15%,
0:22:40 > 0:22:43so he will have to buy in extra supplements.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47The real worry, though, is for farmers who do not test their silage.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49The message is clear - get it tested
0:22:49 > 0:22:53or your livestock could suffer the consequences.
0:22:53 > 0:22:54For the rest of you, though,
0:22:54 > 0:22:57I bet you never knew that grass could be so complicated.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00Just a little science for you to ruminate over.
0:23:00 > 0:23:04From beef cattle to the product of Ayrshire's dairy cows
0:23:04 > 0:23:06with Nick and the Landward food van.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12The Landward food van is out on the road again.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14Our mission - to bring the best produce
0:23:14 > 0:23:17of the Scottish countryside to the public.
0:23:17 > 0:23:21We've set up shop right here in the heart of the historic town of Ayr.
0:23:21 > 0:23:24This week, I'm going to create a cheesy feast
0:23:24 > 0:23:27with some of that delicious Barwheys cheese
0:23:27 > 0:23:30I collected earlier in the programme.
0:23:30 > 0:23:33And, as ever, I'm joined by my omnipresent kitchen assistant,
0:23:33 > 0:23:34Dougie. Delighted to be here.
0:23:34 > 0:23:36Cast your mind back to the Royal Highland Show -
0:23:36 > 0:23:38best Scottish cheese in the show. Yes.
0:23:38 > 0:23:41This is Barwheys Dairy - brilliant mature cheddar.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43We know it's fantastic, so stick it on the cheeseboard,
0:23:43 > 0:23:45just let people taste it.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48Er, you could do that, but what I'm going to do is make a cheese sauce,
0:23:48 > 0:23:51very thick cheese sauce... Uh-huh. ..let it set, cut it out,
0:23:51 > 0:23:54pane it - so "pane" is to put it in breadcrumbs -
0:23:54 > 0:23:56deep-fry it so it's crisp on the outside
0:23:56 > 0:23:59and it melts again on the inside. Ohh! Yeah? Fantastic.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02Now, for this, I need a lot of grated cheese.
0:24:06 > 0:24:09You may be some time. I WILL be some time.
0:24:09 > 0:24:12Meanwhile, I am going to make a cheese sauce.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14First of all, you need to make a roux.
0:24:14 > 0:24:17Melt the butter over a low heat...
0:24:17 > 0:24:20and the secret of a good roux is to use more butter than flour -
0:24:20 > 0:24:22most recipes would say equal quantities
0:24:22 > 0:24:25but, if you use slightly more butter,
0:24:25 > 0:24:29you get a flat mix that lies on the bottom of the pan
0:24:29 > 0:24:32and allows you to cook the flour in the butter
0:24:32 > 0:24:37so that, when you add the liquid, the roux is fully cooked out.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41So, what we're going to do is cook this for about two or three minutes
0:24:41 > 0:24:45until the colour of the flour starts to slightly darken.
0:24:45 > 0:24:48All of the cheese? All of the cheese, yes.
0:24:48 > 0:24:51Not just a wee TV bit. I thought this was going to be easy.
0:24:51 > 0:24:52OK, carrying on.
0:24:52 > 0:24:56So, at this pint, we add the milk and whisk like billyo.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59You want to keep going - and cold milk, always cold milk.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01Use hot milk, it sets straight away.
0:25:01 > 0:25:05This is going to be a really, really, really thick sauce. Wow!
0:25:05 > 0:25:06HE GRUNTS
0:25:06 > 0:25:08That's very quick. Yeah.
0:25:08 > 0:25:10It's because I cooked the flour out.
0:25:10 > 0:25:15So, this is what we're looking for - a really nice, thick cheese sauce.
0:25:15 > 0:25:18And to that, I'm going to add a little bit of creme fraiche,
0:25:18 > 0:25:21and we're now ready to add the cheese.
0:25:21 > 0:25:24A handful at a time, if you don't mind.
0:25:24 > 0:25:25A delicate handful? No, just a big...
0:25:25 > 0:25:29A big... A big muckle. A big wallop. A big wallop.
0:25:29 > 0:25:31Keep going. We're going to run out of cheese...
0:25:31 > 0:25:34Well... ..cos I keep eating it! THEY CHUCKLE
0:25:34 > 0:25:37With the addition of some mustard and a little Worcestershire sauce,
0:25:37 > 0:25:39the cheese sauce is ready to pour.
0:25:45 > 0:25:46After half an hour in the fridge,
0:25:46 > 0:25:50the slab of cheese sauce is ready to be cut into cubes.
0:25:53 > 0:25:56Floured, egged and breadcrumbed, it's time for the fun bit -
0:25:56 > 0:25:58deep-frying.
0:26:01 > 0:26:02PAN SIZZLES
0:26:04 > 0:26:07So, what we want to do is we want to fry them
0:26:07 > 0:26:10until they're lovely and crisp and golden on the outside... Uh-huh.
0:26:10 > 0:26:12..but soft in the middle.
0:26:12 > 0:26:14Yeah... Out they come.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16Absolutely fantastic.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19Hoh, hoh, hoh! Now...
0:26:19 > 0:26:20I'm not going to eat that immediately!
0:26:20 > 0:26:23Don't eat them straight out of the fryer.
0:26:23 > 0:26:25You need to let them cool down for at least two or three minutes.
0:26:29 > 0:26:31Mm!
0:26:31 > 0:26:33Oh, my...
0:26:33 > 0:26:35Quite hot? Mm!
0:26:35 > 0:26:37Right... Mm!
0:26:37 > 0:26:40Amazingly crispy on the outside, and that cheese,
0:26:40 > 0:26:42just - oh, that's amazing.
0:26:42 > 0:26:44Huge flavour. Absolutely brilliant. Fantastic.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46Let's go and see what the good citizens of Ayr
0:26:46 > 0:26:48make of their champion cheese.
0:26:48 > 0:26:49Lead on, young man.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56Mm! Oh, look at all the cheese!
0:26:56 > 0:26:57Mm, lovely.
0:26:57 > 0:26:59Oh, it's cheese and it's delicious!
0:26:59 > 0:27:01And it's the right temperature, too. Thank you.
0:27:01 > 0:27:02Absolutely delicious, so it is.
0:27:02 > 0:27:03First class.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05Mm! Delicious.
0:27:05 > 0:27:06Tell me what you think.
0:27:09 > 0:27:10HE CHUCKLES
0:27:13 > 0:27:16Cheddar cheese. A bit like cheddar cheese?
0:27:16 > 0:27:19This is our lunch today. Oh, right, well, just a light lunch for you.
0:27:19 > 0:27:22Mm-hm. Mm! Look at that molten cheese. Ohhh!
0:27:22 > 0:27:23Oh, that's absolutely... Delicious.
0:27:23 > 0:27:25Worth the wait? Definitely.
0:27:25 > 0:27:27He takes ages in the kitchen, that Nick Nairn, doesn't he?
0:27:27 > 0:27:29And I think you've eaten a lot of cheese.
0:27:31 > 0:27:33You ate it quite quickly!
0:27:33 > 0:27:34Got a big mouth!
0:27:34 > 0:27:36LAUGHTER
0:27:36 > 0:27:37Is that your friend?
0:27:37 > 0:27:39Not any more. Not any more!
0:27:41 > 0:27:43I think it's fair to say, a resounding success.
0:27:43 > 0:27:47100% success rate - loved by old and young alike.
0:27:47 > 0:27:48That is amazing.
0:27:48 > 0:27:51Now, this was a fantastic, award-winning local cheese,
0:27:51 > 0:27:54but there are loads of fantastic dairies across Scotland
0:27:54 > 0:27:56that you could do exactly the same thing
0:27:56 > 0:27:57with the cheese from your region.
0:27:57 > 0:27:59Yeah, search them out, well worth the effort.
0:27:59 > 0:28:00And that is it.
0:28:00 > 0:28:03So, from all the Landward team, from Nick and myself, from Ayr...
0:28:03 > 0:28:05Goodbye! Cheery-bye.
0:28:35 > 0:28:37To be in the Lords, you have to be punctual...
0:28:37 > 0:28:39Thank you. Sometimes you really do
0:28:39 > 0:28:42literally have to slam the door in somebody's face.
0:28:42 > 0:28:43..dress respectfully...
0:28:43 > 0:28:46What right do they have to tell ME about my fashion sense.
0:28:46 > 0:28:47Look at them. Come on.