0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:03 > 0:00:04- Mountains.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- The upper reaches of the world.
0:00:10 > 0:00:13- A challenge and inspiration - for humanity.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- The people of the mountains - are tough and inventive.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- They've learnt how to live here - and maintain a culture.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- Below, the world is getting warmer.
0:00:33 > 0:00:35- The climate is changing.
0:00:36 > 0:00:41- The mountains are not separate from - the fate of the rest of the planet.
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- From the peaks of Korea to the hills - of the Rwenzori in Africa.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53- From the Alps to the Andes.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58- From the Rockies to the Himalayas.
0:00:59 > 0:01:04- This is the story of living - in the high parts of Earth.
0:01:07 > 0:01:09- The mountains of the world.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32- The Himalayas, the abode of snow.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- The highest and most famous peaks - in the world.
0:01:39 > 0:01:42- Of all the mountains, - these are the most extreme.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- They're giants, - but are they large enough...
0:01:48 > 0:01:52- ..to withstand - the pressures of the modern world?
0:01:55 > 0:01:57- The Himalayas are a wall.
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- A wall of mountains between India - to the south and China to the north.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05- A wall that challenges - the best mountaineers.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08- But I haven't come here to climb...
0:02:08 > 0:02:13- ..or to take advantage of some - of the world's best hiking trails.
0:02:13 > 0:02:15- I'm here to meet the locals...
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- ..to try and understand what - it's like to live in these parts.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- The most important factor is love.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- It's what leads to happiness.
0:02:31 > 0:02:34- After that, work. - Then, looking at the mountains.
0:02:37 > 0:02:38- It gives great pleasure.
0:02:41 > 0:02:45- The children of the Himalayas - are happy and very sweet.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- But their heritage - is under threat...
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- ..despite the efforts - to pass on traditional values.
0:02:54 > 0:02:55- So, what is culture?
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- Language, costume, - respect for elders...
0:03:01 > 0:03:03- ..and taking care of the young.
0:03:04 > 0:03:06- The survival of Tibetan culture - is in your hands.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- The qualities of the mountain people - are evident to all who come here.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- What inspires me...
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- ..are local people, - local cultures...
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- ..their faces - and their traditional way of living.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- I am touched by them.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32- But the modern world is penetrating - into the remotest of strongholds.
0:03:33 > 0:03:36- This is going to be - an interesting journey.
0:03:37 > 0:03:42- Building a road to the highlands is - transforming the villagers' world.
0:03:45 > 0:03:49- Even if it's no more than a rugged, - bone-shaking track.
0:03:50 > 0:03:51- I've been driving for 28 years...
0:03:52 > 0:03:54- ..but this road - is perilous and scary.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01- Years ago, mules took a week to - reach the other end of the valley.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04- Today, - there's a daily bus service...
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- ..and you can drive - to see the top of the planet.
0:04:09 > 0:04:12- I'm standing above - the deepest valley in the world...
0:04:12 > 0:04:14- ..the Kali Gandaki gorge.
0:04:14 > 0:04:19- It runs through two of - the Himalayas' highest mountains...
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- ..the Dhaulagiri to one side - and the Annapurna to the other.
0:04:24 > 0:04:28- Both mountains - are over 8,000m above sea level.
0:04:31 > 0:04:33- It's no wonder tourists throng here.
0:04:36 > 0:04:40- Seeing these mountains - is an unforgettable experience.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- I'm as keen as anyone to - take full advantage of the thrill.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- But there's a price to pay - for drawing tourists here.
0:04:56 > 0:04:57- With every hotel built...
0:04:57 > 0:05:01- ..the ancient mountains - lose a little of their grandeur...
0:05:02 > 0:05:06- ..even if there's a spectacular view - around the next corner.
0:05:10 > 0:05:15- This is life in the Himalayas today, - a journey to an uncertain tomorrow.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- The magic of the Himalayas - cannot be denied.
0:05:32 > 0:05:36- For centuries, pilgrims have - come here in search of blessings...
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- ..and have been welcomed - in the highland villages.
0:05:46 > 0:05:49- Why do mountaineers - come to the high mountains?
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- The simple answer - - because they're there.
0:05:55 > 0:05:58- The journey - from Wales to Kathmandu...
0:05:58 > 0:06:02- ..has made me eager to find out more - about the Himalayas' allure.
0:06:02 > 0:06:06- However, I'm not sure - what I'm going to discover...
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- ..during a period of major change.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15- The capital of Nepal - was the starting point...
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- ..for many of the most famous - mountaineering expeditions.
0:06:20 > 0:06:21- On my first night here...
0:06:21 > 0:06:25- ..I feel I'm about to embark - on an adventure as well.
0:06:28 > 0:06:32- The next morning, I've arranged - to meet a Himalayas legend.
0:06:33 > 0:06:34- Namaste.
0:06:34 > 0:06:35- Thank you.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- He's stood on the summit of Everest - three times.
0:06:40 > 0:06:45- Having led the Sherpas on some - very famous Himalayan expeditions...
0:06:45 > 0:06:48- ..Pertemba Sherpa - insisted on speaking English to me.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- In the 1970s, he says reaching the - bottom of Everest was a challenge...
0:06:53 > 0:06:55- ..never mind the summit.
0:06:56 > 0:06:58- In those days, - there were no roads...
0:06:58 > 0:07:01- ..and also no airport.
0:07:02 > 0:07:06- Early trekking was much longer.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09- The shortest trek took three weeks.
0:07:11 > 0:07:15- Nowadays, according to Pertemba, - to-ing and fro-ing is so easy...
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- ..that the dangers aren't heeded.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- Inexperienced walkers can pay to - attempt to climb to the summits.
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- A number have died - on Everest's slopes as a result...
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- ..which brings us back - to the why question.
0:07:31 > 0:07:34- In our country, we need tourism.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38- But since these - commercial expeditions started...
0:07:38 > 0:07:41- ..the organizers are less careful.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46- They accept people who can pay the - money to join the expedition team.
0:07:47 > 0:07:49- That is more dangerous.
0:07:50 > 0:07:52- If they are not qualified...
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- ..before they go up - to the mountain...
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- ..they need more training.
0:07:59 > 0:08:05- The very simple thing is, - we need better-quality climbers.
0:08:07 > 0:08:09- I won't be doing any climbing...
0:08:10 > 0:08:13- ..but Pertemba's words - are a wise warning...
0:08:13 > 0:08:17- ..to everyone leaving Kathmandu - for the mountains.
0:08:18 > 0:08:21- The airplane takes us - to the start of the journey proper.
0:08:22 > 0:08:26- The closest city to the famous - hiking circuit around Annapurna.
0:08:28 > 0:08:30- "The Switzerland of Nepal"...
0:08:30 > 0:08:33- ..is how the tourist pamphlets - describe Pokhara.
0:08:33 > 0:08:37- But it's hard to see the mountains - and lakes at their best...
0:08:38 > 0:08:39- ..from the city centre.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- You need to go a bit higher - to really appreciate them.
0:08:44 > 0:08:45- Hello!
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- Paragliding is the new craze - in the Himalayas.
0:09:06 > 0:09:12- With a bit of practice, visitors can - rise like birds to the heavens...
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- ..and have an eagle-eye view - on the lakes below.
0:09:26 > 0:09:30- The latest spin on the sport is a - boost to one of the native birds...
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- ..which has suffered greatly - in the last decade.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- Vulture numbers - have decreased sharply.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41- 99% of them have died.
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- A concerning fall.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51- A drug is the problem.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55- A drug that farmers - give to their dying cattle.
0:09:55 > 0:09:57- Comfort for the cattle...
0:09:57 > 0:10:00- ..but poison - to the vultures that feed on them.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- There's now a charity...
0:10:02 > 0:10:05- ..which is raising money - to revive vulture numbers.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- Let's get you into your harness. - It goes on like a jacket.
0:10:10 > 0:10:14- It does that by offering tourists - a thrilling experience.
0:10:14 > 0:10:17- Flying with the birds - and feeding them mid-air.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- It's the brainchild - of an Englishman, Scott Mason.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23- I fully trust Scott, thankfully.
0:10:23 > 0:10:24- I think!
0:10:26 > 0:10:27- Scott's taking me.
0:10:28 > 0:10:31- I'll clutch a piece of meat - to feed the birds...
0:10:31 > 0:10:33- ..hundreds of metres - above the lakes.
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- It's not quite like throwing bread - to the ducks in Roath Park!
0:10:38 > 0:10:41- We need to feed him - during the flight.
0:10:41 > 0:10:46- If we didn't, he'd lose motivation - to stay in the air with us.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- One piece of meat at a time - is the order of the day.
0:10:50 > 0:10:52- We hide it - until we're ready to feed.
0:10:53 > 0:10:55- Make a fist and cover the food - with your hand.
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- Keep it covered - as his eyesight is very good.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02- If he sees you've got food - on display, he'll take it off you.
0:11:04 > 0:11:05- I'm very excited.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10- My heart's beating quite fast - as I've seen how high up it is.
0:11:11 > 0:11:13- But the weather's glorious.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16- I'm in the middle - of the Himalayas...
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- ..and I'm going to fly - with a bird of prey.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21- Life can't get any better.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29- Brave words - but there's no turning back now.
0:11:33 > 0:11:35- OK. Run, run, run, run.
0:11:38 > 0:11:39- Well done.
0:11:40 > 0:11:42- Wow!
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- It barely needs to be said - - I'm on top of the world.
0:12:24 > 0:12:25- .
0:12:28 > 0:12:28- Subtitles
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:35 > 0:12:40- From Pokhara, the road takes us - towards the famous hiking circuit...
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- ..around the Annapurna mountains...
0:12:43 > 0:12:46- ..and a town called Beni, - 900 metres above sea level.
0:12:47 > 0:12:48- From Beni...
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- ..the next step will be to go up the - slopes of the Kali Gandaki valley.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- The road through the valley has been - a trading route for centuries.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- The flow of produce, goods - and people...
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- ..from India to the south - and Tibet to the north...
0:13:05 > 0:13:07- ..has given the area - real character.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- The trade - used to take place on foot.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14- But, as you can see and hear, - that's all changed.
0:13:17 > 0:13:22- Today, the buses, lorries and jeeps - can go 3,000 metres higher...
0:13:22 > 0:13:25- ..when travelling along - the new road towards Tibet.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30- I've arranged to have a lift - with Jeevan Karki.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33- Jeevan - is taking building materials...
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..to a village - at the head of the valley.
0:13:40 > 0:13:43- They say that opening the valley - to goods lorries...
0:13:43 > 0:13:46- ..has transformed life - in the highlands.
0:13:46 > 0:13:48- One thing that hasn't changed...
0:13:49 > 0:13:52- ..is how hard and dangerous it is - to travel through the valley.
0:13:53 > 0:13:55- As I'm sure I'm going to find out!
0:13:56 > 0:13:57- Namaste!
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- It's Keevan job to keep me safe...
0:14:03 > 0:14:06- ..on one of the most dangerous roads - in the world.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10- Thankfully, - he has years of experience.
0:14:14 > 0:14:16- I've been driving for 28 years...
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- ..but this road - is perilous and scary.
0:14:27 > 0:14:31- There's dust everywhere - and that makes driving difficult.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35- Thank goodness - for Jeevan's experience...
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- ..as we tackle the streams that flow - over the road from the mountains.
0:14:40 > 0:14:43- And this isn't even monsoon season.
0:14:45 > 0:14:48- We were once stuck for 7 days.
0:14:48 > 0:14:51- The lorry just could not go through.
0:14:54 > 0:14:59- Rain destabilizes the land - and, sometimes, the road slips.
0:15:08 > 0:15:13- The Nepalese army blasted through - the hills to build the new road.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- Local residents contributed too.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19- Workers from outside the area...
0:15:20 > 0:15:23- ..couldn't cope - with the lack of oxygen so high up.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26- Building the road - was a minor miracle...
0:15:26 > 0:15:31- ..but it's far from being - a smooth motorway.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34- In the narrow parts, - I'm worried that the lorry...
0:15:34 > 0:15:38- ..will fall over the side - if there's a heavy load on the back.
0:15:40 > 0:15:42- He admits that now!
0:15:44 > 0:15:46- There's only room for one vehicle.
0:15:46 > 0:15:51- Some drivers are courteous.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54- They gesture for you - to come forward.
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- But others swear - and tell me to reverse...
0:16:01 > 0:16:06- ..then shout and make a fuss - if there's no place to pass.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- The journey's a long one - - it takes all day.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17- All the shaking takes its toll but - the views make it all worthwhile.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26- At last, 2,500m above sea level...
0:16:26 > 0:16:30- ..we reach the ancient village - of Marpha.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33- It's another world - in terms of spirituality.
0:16:36 > 0:16:39- Colourful flags signify - the importance of Buddhism here.
0:16:40 > 0:16:45- At the village entrance is a gateway - with its old prayer wheels.
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- There's hardly any sound or hubbub - on the streets.
0:16:55 > 0:17:00- It's as if the flags and wheels - have put everyone under a spell.
0:17:02 > 0:17:08- Turning the circular boxes releases - the prayers to the universe.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10- It's the same idea with the flags.
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- The prayers are released - to the five elements...
0:17:14 > 0:17:17- ..represented by the five colours.
0:17:17 > 0:17:22- The feeling is that someone's - looking after you in the highlands.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25- That includes me, hopefully.
0:17:29 > 0:17:35- Outside their home, the locals - stockpile firewood ready for winter.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38- For them, exhibiting the wood - is a sign of generosity...
0:17:39 > 0:17:41- ..and the universe in balance...
0:17:41 > 0:17:45- ..which has always given people - plenty to live in comfort here.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52- But the world is changing.
0:17:53 > 0:17:59- For centuries, wheat and barley grew - in the fields to feed the villagers.
0:17:59 > 0:18:03- But the new road has brought - other possibilities and fresh ideas.
0:18:08 > 0:18:10- Apples grow here now too.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- They're used to make brandy.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- In the shadow of Marpha - is a man with vision...
0:18:19 > 0:18:24- ..who's taken advantage of the new - ideas that have come to the valley.
0:18:24 > 0:18:29- Bishnu was one of the first men - to grow apples in the area.
0:18:29 > 0:18:32- He's seen the advantages - of the new road...
0:18:32 > 0:18:37- ..to transport his apples and brandy - to brand-new markets.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- The is the Sweet Omri apple - - the chocolate apple.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- It's very tasty...
0:18:45 > 0:18:47- ..and it makes good brandy.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49- These apples make the best brandy.
0:18:51 > 0:18:56- There have been major changes - over the last 60 years.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- "The Age of Difficulties" - has become the "Age of Convenience".
0:19:02 > 0:19:08- Due to globalization, - everything is instantaneous...
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- ..presenting new opportunities - for people.
0:19:11 > 0:19:16- Hard work and perseverance - is needed to grow a new business.
0:19:16 > 0:19:22- Bishnu admits that his success is - down to one factor - the new road.
0:19:23 > 0:19:27- Networks are needed - to help every country develop.
0:19:28 > 0:19:35- The new road and the traffic brought - better facilities to the area.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- But problems came too.
0:19:39 > 0:19:46- The old days and the modern age - are as different as land and air.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49- Having drunk a few glasses - over the years...
0:19:49 > 0:19:52- ..I'm now going to find out - how to make brandy.
0:19:53 > 0:19:58- This is where the process begins - - quartering the apples.
0:19:58 > 0:20:02- The apples then go into the crate.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- Then they'll go into the press...
0:20:06 > 0:20:09- ..where the big wheel will turn...
0:20:09 > 0:20:15- ..and slice them - into this fantastic sludge.
0:20:15 > 0:20:20- Then, the sludge - goes into the blue bucket.
0:20:20 > 0:20:24- This is where the process - will begin properly...
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- ..where the sugar - is poured on the apples...
0:20:28 > 0:20:32- ..and the natural yeast starts - to make the all-important alcohol.
0:20:40 > 0:20:42- A fire is also needed, of course.
0:20:43 > 0:20:48- Because the atmospheric pressure - is so low 2,500m above sea level...
0:20:48 > 0:20:51- ..everything boils - at a lower temperature.
0:20:51 > 0:20:55- It gives the brandy - a special taste and character.
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- The Marpha apples are becoming - a tasty and valuable product...
0:21:02 > 0:21:07- ..a drink that Bishnu can deliver to - worldwide markets via the new road.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12- I raise a glass to that.
0:21:13 > 0:21:14- Wow! That's strong.
0:21:14 > 0:21:16- Very strong.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18- Excellent.
0:21:22 > 0:21:23- Water.
0:21:23 > 0:21:24- Water.- - Yes.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28- It's very strong!
0:21:28 > 0:21:30- I don't normally drink brandy.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33- But, hey, I'm in the Himalayas.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- It's going down quite well. - I might have another one.
0:21:46 > 0:21:47- .
0:21:47 > 0:21:47- Subtitles
0:21:47 > 0:21:49- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:21:54 > 0:21:57- In the Himalayas, - I'm following a new road...
0:21:57 > 0:22:01- ..that's bringing change - to the remotest of villages.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06- The road has now reached Kagbeni...
0:22:06 > 0:22:09- ..almost 3,000m above sea level.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19- Kagbeni is an ancient village.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22- The influence of Tibet - is very evident here...
0:22:23 > 0:22:26- ..in the shape of the buildings - and in people's faces.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- Similar to us in Wales, - the locals have a tourist dilemma.
0:22:35 > 0:22:39- How to benefit from - the natural beauty of the area...
0:22:39 > 0:22:43- ..without trampling - on its traditions and culture.
0:22:44 > 0:22:47- Tripple Gurung - has given this great thought.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- He's an ex-pilot - who's travelled the world...
0:22:51 > 0:22:54- ..before returning - to run businesses here.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59- For me, as one who's been born - in the Himalayas...
0:23:01 > 0:23:04- ..the most important factor in life - is love.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08- That's what brings happiness.
0:23:10 > 0:23:12- After that, work.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15- Then, looking at the mountains.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19- It gives great pleasure.
0:23:21 > 0:23:22- The mountains are everything.
0:23:24 > 0:23:29- They provide a living...
0:23:32 > 0:23:35- ..and attract people from afar - to come and see them.
0:23:35 > 0:23:39- Without them, I'm certain - there'd be no tourists here.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46- Tripple runs a hotel in Kagbeni...
0:23:46 > 0:23:50- ..and arranges walks - up the famous Annapurna mountains.
0:23:52 > 0:23:55- But he loves the old way of life - in the mountains.
0:23:55 > 0:23:57- Every time he takes a booking...
0:23:57 > 0:24:03- ..he's determined to show tourists - the true character of the Himalayas.
0:24:05 > 0:24:08- It's more of a refuge than a hotel.
0:24:09 > 0:24:12- The decor - and prayer wheels in the hall...
0:24:14 > 0:24:17- ..and the simple food - prepared with local ingredients...
0:24:18 > 0:24:21- ..are proof that someone - who's happy with his lot...
0:24:22 > 0:24:24- ..is behind this business.
0:24:26 > 0:24:28- I feel very fortunate.
0:24:29 > 0:24:33- I was a pilot for 12 years - flying over the mountains.
0:24:33 > 0:24:34- What an experience!
0:24:35 > 0:24:37- Seeing the magnificent scenery...
0:24:37 > 0:24:42- ..nature, clouds, lakes and rivers.
0:24:43 > 0:24:48- But the scenery here is even better.
0:24:48 > 0:24:53- I feel very fortunate - - one in a billion.
0:25:01 > 0:25:05- One visitor to Tripple's hotel - has a special reason to stay here.
0:25:06 > 0:25:08- It's not hiking or mountaineering.
0:25:10 > 0:25:15- Every morning, Dhwoj Gurung goes - through the village to his office.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22- But it's not a desk job.
0:25:28 > 0:25:32- As a young man, I worked on the land - during monsoon season...
0:25:35 > 0:25:40- ..planting rice in the paddy fields.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51- I used my wages - to buy brushes, paint and paper.
0:25:53 > 0:25:58- Even back then, - I had a definite idea...
0:26:02 > 0:26:07- ..that art was the pathway - to self-satisfaction.
0:26:08 > 0:26:10- I knew it.
0:26:17 > 0:26:21- Local people are my inspiration, - the local cultures...
0:26:21 > 0:26:28- ..their faces - and traditional way of living.
0:26:31 > 0:26:33- I am touched by them.
0:26:39 > 0:26:44- It's before seven in the morning - and this is the Kagbeni rush hour.
0:26:45 > 0:26:46- It's fantastically busy.
0:26:47 > 0:26:50- In the middle of this - melting into the background...
0:26:51 > 0:26:54- ..is someone every villager knows - - Dhwoj, the artist.
0:27:00 > 0:27:02- In the countryside, - the whole village...
0:27:03 > 0:27:05- ..gives you a warm welcome.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19- When you come - to somewhere like this...
0:27:20 > 0:27:22- ..often all you want to do...
0:27:22 > 0:27:27- ..is sit - and watch how everyday life awakens.
0:27:27 > 0:27:32- Every second - has created its own picture...
0:27:32 > 0:27:35- ..like Dhwoj - creates his own pictures here.
0:27:45 > 0:27:47- There's a cause for concern too.
0:27:47 > 0:27:53- Am I looking at something - that will be consigned to history...
0:27:53 > 0:27:57- ..because of all the changes - taking place in the country?
0:27:57 > 0:28:01- I wonder how long this will last.
0:28:04 > 0:28:08- Dhwoj is in Kagbeni - to get over a horrific experience.
0:28:11 > 0:28:17- In April 2015, when he was away - from home working in Kathmandu...
0:28:17 > 0:28:20- ..a huge earthquake struck Nepal.
0:28:22 > 0:28:28- I switched on the news and heard - my village was near the epicentre.
0:28:29 > 0:28:31- I was in shock!
0:28:33 > 0:28:36- After seeing the destruction - for the first time...
0:28:38 > 0:28:42- ..I couldn't stop crying.
0:28:44 > 0:28:48- Everything had gone, - we lost everything.
0:28:48 > 0:28:51- Just horrible memories.
0:28:53 > 0:28:58- 18 were killed, and the houses - were totally destroyed.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03- There were 15 or 20 helicopters - flying over every day.
0:29:04 > 0:29:09- Not one of them landed to help us - for 5 days after the earthquake.
0:29:10 > 0:29:16- After seeing that, I worked - day and night to help the people.
0:29:21 > 0:29:25- A heroic effort. - But the stress was too much.
0:29:26 > 0:29:29- To recuperate, - Dhwoj came to Kagbeni...
0:29:30 > 0:29:34- ..and the refuge of the prayer room - in Tripple's hotel.
0:29:44 > 0:29:46- From the first time I came here...
0:29:47 > 0:29:51- ..I started to realize the feel...
0:29:52 > 0:29:56- ..in the room, sculptures, - all the prayer wheels.
0:29:58 > 0:30:01- It just went somewhere.
0:30:04 > 0:30:06- Painting is therapeutic for him.
0:30:08 > 0:30:10- When I'm out painting...
0:30:11 > 0:30:15- ..my first priority - is not just to paint...
0:30:16 > 0:30:19- ..but to enjoy, enjoy yourself.
0:30:24 > 0:30:28- Children come to me and shout, - "Brother! I want to paint too."
0:30:29 > 0:30:30- "OK," I reply.
0:30:31 > 0:30:33- This morning, what fun!
0:30:34 > 0:30:40- Cows, kids, all around - enjoying themselves and taking part.
0:30:41 > 0:30:44- I make them a part of my work.
0:30:50 > 0:30:56- I think it's through the grace - of God that I'm still alive today.
0:30:57 > 0:31:00- I can see, hear, talk.
0:31:00 > 0:31:02- I can be happy.
0:31:02 > 0:31:05- What more is there to life? - That's how I feel.
0:31:07 > 0:31:09- Amen to that, I say.
0:31:14 > 0:31:15- .
0:31:17 > 0:31:17- Subtitles
0:31:17 > 0:31:19- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:31:24 > 0:31:26- I'm following a new road - in the Himalayas.
0:31:27 > 0:31:30- A road that's bringing change - to highland communities...
0:31:31 > 0:31:33- ..but threatens - the old way of life.
0:31:35 > 0:31:40- The village of Jharkot, - 3,500m above sea level.
0:31:47 > 0:31:50- A morning service - in a remarkable institution...
0:31:50 > 0:31:54- ..which educates underprivileged - children in the area.
0:31:54 > 0:31:57- The teacher is Tibetan.
0:32:00 > 0:32:05- My job title is "teacher" but I'm - like a mother to the children too.
0:32:05 > 0:32:07- So, there's plenty to do.
0:32:09 > 0:32:12- If a child is ill, - I take them to hospital.
0:32:12 > 0:32:16- I wash the children's dirty clothes.
0:32:24 > 0:32:29- I make sure - that they have a shower...
0:32:30 > 0:32:33- ..and wash their hair twice a week.
0:32:38 > 0:32:42- The school also tries to protect - the area's heritage.
0:32:42 > 0:32:45- Keeping the faith - is important here.
0:32:45 > 0:32:47- TRADITIONAL PRAYER
0:33:08 > 0:33:11- Wow. That was quite a prayer.
0:33:11 > 0:33:13- It's floored me.
0:33:13 > 0:33:16- Hearing their passionate - little voices...
0:33:16 > 0:33:19- ..went through my body.
0:33:19 > 0:33:24- There was something - about the simplicity of the worship.
0:33:24 > 0:33:27- Everybody knew all the words...
0:33:27 > 0:33:32- ..and they were all - in complete harmony with each other.
0:33:32 > 0:33:34- I won't forget that in a hurry.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40- Formal education - is a new development here.
0:33:41 > 0:33:45- There's a real attempt to strengthen - the children's Tibetan heritage.
0:33:50 > 0:33:53- Today, I'll talk about - the Saga Dawa festival.
0:33:54 > 0:33:57- Which month in the Tibetan calendar - is the most important?
0:33:59 > 0:34:04- Most of the Tibetans in the area are - farmers - dependent on the harvest.
0:34:06 > 0:34:08- There's often not enough - food in the home...
0:34:09 > 0:34:12- ..but they do their best - to give their children an education.
0:34:20 > 0:34:24- Thousands of young people are - leaving the mountains for the city.
0:34:24 > 0:34:29- The hope is that nurturing pride in - the area's history and traditions...
0:34:29 > 0:34:32- ..will convince more to stay here.
0:34:37 > 0:34:43- Outside school, the farmers' work - continues as it has for years.
0:34:49 > 0:34:54- But they understand - that the world is changing...
0:34:54 > 0:34:57- ..and that the school - is important for Jharkot.
0:35:02 > 0:35:05- When I was young, we were happy - to make our own clothes...
0:35:06 > 0:35:10- ..and to live on whatever - we could grow.
0:35:12 > 0:35:14- Education didn't matter.
0:35:14 > 0:35:17- Only now do people - understand the value of education.
0:35:19 > 0:35:22- For Angya, depopulation - is more than a set of figures.
0:35:23 > 0:35:25- It's personal and breaks his heart.
0:35:28 > 0:35:30- It's a grave situation.
0:35:30 > 0:35:34- In Mustang and every part of Nepal.
0:35:35 > 0:35:42- The young are leaving for Japan, - America, Malaysia and Arabia.
0:35:47 > 0:35:49- There'll be no-one left - to look after us.
0:35:50 > 0:35:54- I've no idea if they'll come back.
0:36:02 > 0:36:06- And if they do come home, - there'll be no work here. Nothing.
0:36:11 > 0:36:16- Culture and agriculture will cease. - Everything will disappear.
0:36:19 > 0:36:22- Sad! So sad!
0:36:26 > 0:36:30- I have 5 children; the older ones - have got married and moved abroad.
0:36:31 > 0:36:34- I have two grandsons - but I've never seen them.
0:36:35 > 0:36:36- I'm so sad.
0:36:41 > 0:36:43- Many villagers feel downhearted.
0:36:43 > 0:36:47- Others think that Jharkot's problems - can be sorted out.
0:37:00 > 0:37:03- The same charity - that established the school...
0:37:03 > 0:37:08- ..has opened a health centre - to offer Tibetan treatments.
0:37:08 > 0:37:12- I'm very much enjoying - my massage session.
0:37:13 > 0:37:17- The treatment is popular with hikers - who come to the area.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21- Their money pays - for the centre's other activities.
0:37:24 > 0:37:30- The locals have always taken - medicine that use mountain plants.
0:37:35 > 0:37:39- The leaves, flowers and roots - are collected from the hills...
0:37:39 > 0:37:43- ..by the amchis, - Tibet's traditional doctors...- - www.lungtatravel.com/amchi-medicine.html
0:37:43 > 0:37:47- ..who are highly respected - in these mountain villages.
0:37:48 > 0:37:53- Thanks to the community project, - the amchi offers a service...
0:37:53 > 0:37:56- ..that's more or less free of charge - to villagers.
0:38:00 > 0:38:03- Of course, in mountainous areas - like this one...
0:38:03 > 0:38:08- ..the hospital is a long way away, - geographically and financially.
0:38:11 > 0:38:16- Equilibrium and harmony are - the foundations of Tibetan medicine.
0:38:16 > 0:38:20- Treating the patient as a person - and not as a set of symptoms.
0:38:22 > 0:38:28- If the patient can't read, the amchi - draws the prescription as a diagram.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32- A circle for every tablet - that needs to be taken per day.
0:38:39 > 0:38:42- A coordinator is required...
0:38:42 > 0:38:45- ..for the funding and planning - of the school and clinic...
0:38:46 > 0:38:48- ..and for community development.
0:38:48 > 0:38:51- It's the role of project director, - Mohan Gurung.
0:38:52 > 0:38:56- I've worked here for 18 years.
0:38:56 > 0:39:01- In that time, personally, - I haven't done anything for myself.
0:39:01 > 0:39:04- But sometimes - when I sit in my room...
0:39:05 > 0:39:08- ..and just think about what have - I done and what I will be doing.
0:39:09 > 0:39:12- I feel very happy.
0:39:14 > 0:39:16- I feel very touched by this village.
0:39:19 > 0:39:23- But the children's welfare - is what's closest to Mohan's heart.
0:39:23 > 0:39:25- The most important thing is...
0:39:25 > 0:39:31- ..when a child's future - seems uncertain...
0:39:31 > 0:39:39- ..and parents can't see - what's best for their children...
0:39:39 > 0:39:43- ..if we can offer guidance - to those children...
0:39:43 > 0:39:50- ..and help their dreams come true, - we feel extremely happy.
0:39:50 > 0:39:52- One, two, three.
0:39:53 > 0:39:54- Boing!
0:39:54 > 0:39:55- Boing!
0:39:58 > 0:40:00- Who are the winners?
0:40:00 > 0:40:02- Yay! A clap for you.
0:40:02 > 0:40:03- Thank you very much.
0:40:04 > 0:40:05- You now.
0:40:05 > 0:40:07- Thank you very much.
0:40:07 > 0:40:09- Thank you very much.- - Thank you.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22- Childhood games are a real pleasure.
0:40:24 > 0:40:28- Striking the balance that's so - important to the school isn't easy.
0:40:31 > 0:40:35- Feeding the children's ambitions for - the future in a globalizing world...
0:40:36 > 0:40:41- ..but also nurturing respect - for their nation's history.
0:40:42 > 0:40:49- Our traditions - have lasted through the centuries.
0:40:50 > 0:40:53- Until today, - we've managed to maintain them.
0:40:53 > 0:40:54- But nowadays...
0:40:54 > 0:40:58- ..positive and negative influences - threaten to bring about change.
0:41:05 > 0:41:08- For now, - sharing a meal might be enough.
0:41:09 > 0:41:11- These children's spirit - is infectious.
0:41:12 > 0:41:14- Being with them has been a lesson.
0:41:14 > 0:41:18- We've communicated, laughed - and played together.
0:41:19 > 0:41:22- They've made a lasting impression - on me.
0:41:22 > 0:41:25- They're so friendly. Aren't you?
0:41:25 > 0:41:26- They're great.
0:41:26 > 0:41:28- Their smile...
0:41:28 > 0:41:31- Everything about them - has touched me right here.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41- For the afternoon lesson, - we go to the temple.
0:41:41 > 0:41:43- Everyone is so at home here.
0:41:44 > 0:41:46- It's hard to forget one thing.
0:41:50 > 0:41:54- For their higher education and - perhaps the rest of their lives...
0:41:54 > 0:41:57- ..most of the pupils - will leave Jharkot.
0:41:57 > 0:42:00- This school's priceless gift...
0:42:00 > 0:42:03- ..is teaching them - the importance of roots.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07- Today, I want to talk about the - importance of our Tibetan culture.
0:42:09 > 0:42:12- Education - isn't all schools can offer.
0:42:12 > 0:42:19- Here, you can show respect and - learn about our Tibetan traditions.
0:42:21 > 0:42:23- So, what is culture?
0:42:23 > 0:42:30- Language, costume, respect for - elders and caring for the young.
0:42:33 > 0:42:37- The survival of Tibetan culture - is in your hands.
0:42:37 > 0:42:40- You're the backbone of the culture.
0:42:49 > 0:42:50- If you travel the world...
0:42:51 > 0:42:54- ..you know only a few places - will stay in the memory.
0:42:54 > 0:42:57- This school - is certainly one of those.
0:42:57 > 0:42:59- Mohan's energy and zeal...
0:43:00 > 0:43:05- ..and the children's happiness, - more than anything, struck a chord.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08- Yes, they do come from - underprivileged backgrounds.
0:43:08 > 0:43:12- They're taught about their - traditions, but more than that...
0:43:12 > 0:43:16- ..they receive residential education - until they're 16.
0:43:16 > 0:43:19- A lot of these - might go on to university...
0:43:19 > 0:43:23- ..and then return to make a positive - contribution to their communities.
0:43:23 > 0:43:25- A place I'll remember.
0:43:26 > 0:43:31- My journey along the new road in - the Himalayas is coming to an end.
0:43:32 > 0:43:35- I've reached - the famous Muktinath temple...
0:43:36 > 0:43:38- ..a few kilometres east of Jharkot.
0:43:40 > 0:43:45- For centuries, pilgrims - have walked to this sacred spot...
0:43:45 > 0:43:48- ..which is almost 4,000m - above sea level.
0:43:48 > 0:43:51- This is the end of the new road.
0:43:53 > 0:43:55- The road - has inspired a building boom.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59- Hotels and businesses - of all kinds...
0:43:59 > 0:44:03- ..keen to profit from the - increasing number of pilgrims...
0:44:03 > 0:44:05- ..likely to come here.
0:44:07 > 0:44:09- For me, it's quite a let-down.
0:44:11 > 0:44:12- It's strange.
0:44:12 > 0:44:16- I've travelled through - lots of traditional villages...
0:44:16 > 0:44:20- ..over extremely tough terrain...
0:44:20 > 0:44:24- ..to reach one of the Himalayas' - most sacred locations.
0:44:25 > 0:44:28- What I've found - is a new tourist town...
0:44:28 > 0:44:33- ..that's in the middle of being - built on the side of the mountain.
0:44:33 > 0:44:37- You get the feeling that it's now - a very different pilgrimage.
0:44:40 > 0:44:43- The end - might have been a disappointment...
0:44:43 > 0:44:47- ..but this journey - has been one thrill after another.
0:45:29 > 0:45:31- A trip to remember.
0:45:31 > 0:45:32- Boing!
0:45:33 > 0:45:38- Muktinath demonstrates the dilemma - posed by tourists in the Himalayas.
0:45:40 > 0:45:42- We have to move with the times.
0:45:43 > 0:45:50- Development is needed but in - equilibrium with the environment...
0:45:51 > 0:45:54- ..to attract a new type of tourist.
0:45:56 > 0:46:00- But through using the new roads, - will future tourists...
0:46:00 > 0:46:04- ..destroy the tranquillity - that they're searching for?
0:46:05 > 0:46:07- I think trekking around Annapurna...
0:46:08 > 0:46:10- ..is very soon going to change.
0:46:12 > 0:46:17- Nowadays, walking is not - very pleasant. Not like before.
0:46:19 > 0:46:21- Pertemba Sherpa would prefer...
0:46:21 > 0:46:25- ..if no new road - came too close to his birthplace.
0:46:27 > 0:46:31- If a new road comes, - all the atmosphere will be gone.
0:46:32 > 0:46:36- We're hoping - the road can reach near Lukla...
0:46:37 > 0:46:40- ..which is enough for us!
0:46:43 > 0:46:47- How do we protect our most famous - mountains and its special culture...
0:46:47 > 0:46:50- ..in a fast-changing world?
0:46:51 > 0:46:53- The debate continues.
0:47:25 > 0:47:28- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.
0:47:28 > 0:47:29- .