0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:02 > 0:00:04- Mountains.
0:00:05 > 0:00:07- The upper reaches of the world.
0:00:10 > 0:00:13- A challenge and inspiration - for humanity.
0:00:17 > 0:00:21- The people of the mountains - are tough and inventive.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- They've learnt how to live here - and maintain a culture.
0:00:28 > 0:00:31- Below, the world is getting warmer.
0:00:33 > 0:00:35- The climate is changing.
0:00:36 > 0:00:41- The mountains are not separate from - the fate of the rest of the planet.
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- From the peaks of Korea to the hills - of the Rwenzori in Africa.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53- From the Alps to the Andes.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58- From the Rockies to the Himalayas.
0:00:59 > 0:01:04- This is the story of living - on the high parts of Earth.
0:01:07 > 0:01:09- The mountains of the world.
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- The Rwenzori
0:01:29 > 0:01:31- Uganda, central Africa...
0:01:31 > 0:01:35- ..challenging terrain, - even for an ex-Royal Marine like me.
0:01:37 > 0:01:41- I've worked for the Army - to strengthen links with Afghans.
0:01:41 > 0:01:45- I've learned more about conflict - in these mountains.
0:01:47 > 0:01:48- A fight for freedom...
0:01:49 > 0:01:53- ..has led to the establishment of - this unique kingdom in the Rwenzori.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00- There's also a physical challenge - for me - a high climb.
0:02:01 > 0:02:04- High enough so I can see the summit - of Mount Stanley.
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- We've been walking - for almost 12 hours.
0:02:12 > 0:02:17- Here, 3,500 metres up, you can feel - that the air is less dense.
0:02:17 > 0:02:22- I have to work a bit harder - to keep up the pace.
0:02:24 > 0:02:26- It'll be quite a challenge.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29- Three hard days of walking...
0:02:29 > 0:02:31- ..with the weather against us.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35- It is raining cats and dogs today!
0:02:37 > 0:02:40- But I'll have to get on with it.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- Higher, higher and higher.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- One of the guys said - we have two hours of climbing to do.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52- My pants are wet - and everyone's tired already.
0:02:53 > 0:02:55- It's not quite midday yet.
0:02:57 > 0:03:02- We'll reach a valley that's almost - 4,000m above sea level...
0:03:02 > 0:03:07- ..where some of the strangest plants - in Africa grow.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- This is a giant lobelia.
0:03:12 > 0:03:14- It's the king of the jungle - in the Rwenzori.
0:03:18 > 0:03:24- I'll be lucky if the ancient gods - of the mountains lift the mist...
0:03:26 > 0:03:30- ..to let me see - the upper part of their kingdoms.
0:03:31 > 0:03:37- It is the palace - of the king of the mountains.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42- While I'm here, - I want to do something else as well.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- I want to spend time - with the mountain people.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53- Get to know them and how they live.
0:03:53 > 0:03:55- We own the houses.
0:03:55 > 0:03:56- We own the cattle.
0:03:56 > 0:03:57- We own the money.
0:03:58 > 0:04:02- We now have possessions, - thanks to the coffee.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09- The locals - have a long and interesting history.
0:04:11 > 0:04:16- The Bakonzo are the original - inhabitants of the Rwenzori.
0:04:17 > 0:04:22- Our forefathers have lived here - for thousands of years.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30- Half a century ago, - they had to take up arms...
0:04:30 > 0:04:33- ..to gain recognition - from the Ugandan government.
0:04:35 > 0:04:39- As a former soldier, I have - a special interest in their story.
0:04:40 > 0:04:45- I'm always keen to learn what drives - someone to fight for his people.
0:04:48 > 0:04:52- The bond between these old friends - is familiar to me.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56- The type of friendship - that only exists on a battlefield.
0:04:58 > 0:04:59- I want to meet the soldiers...
0:05:00 > 0:05:03- ..who fought for the freedom - of the Rwenzori...
0:05:04 > 0:05:07- ..and learn what it was like - to fight in the highlands.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- The mountains were our support - during the fight for freedom.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- When the enemy attacked us, - the mountains were our escape.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22- This is the story of my two journeys - in the Rwenzori.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25- A climb to the top of the mountains.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- The weather, mud - and the very steep slopes...
0:05:29 > 0:05:32- ..make it a really tough trek.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36- The second journey - is just as stunning...
0:05:37 > 0:05:39- ..into the hearts and minds - of the Bakonzo.
0:05:42 > 0:05:47- I'm free to jump high.
0:05:48 > 0:05:50- I can celebrate - exactly how I want.
0:05:51 > 0:05:54- The chains that bound me - have been broken.
0:06:10 > 0:06:11- Western Uganda.
0:06:13 > 0:06:15- It's misty, there's no tropical sun.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- It's not savannah, but mountains.
0:06:19 > 0:06:21- High and remote mountains.
0:06:22 > 0:06:24- The Rwenzori mountains.
0:06:26 > 0:06:31- Until the late Victorian Age, - no European had seen them.
0:06:32 > 0:06:35- They rise steeply - from the Ugandan lowlands...
0:06:36 > 0:06:41- ..and fall just as steeply - to the Congolese jungle to the west.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50- The lifestyle here - is familiar to a Welshman.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53- Walking to school...
0:06:54 > 0:06:56- ..driving to work...
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- ..and noisy pilgrimages to - the altars of commerce and business.
0:07:02 > 0:07:06- At the foot of the Rwenzori, the - morning commute leads to Kasese...
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- ..the town between the mountains - and the savannah...
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- ..which has a population of 300,000.
0:07:16 > 0:07:20- This morning, - everyone's going to the market.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- Fresh produce of all kinds - comes down from the hills.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37- My walk starts tomorrow, - I have to hit the shops too.
0:07:38 > 0:07:43- I've been invited for dinner tonight - by our guide, Syayipuma.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- I asked if I could bring a gift.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50- He said, - "Yes. Two kilos of goat meat."
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- Kasese was originally - a copper mining centre.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59- It's a friendly town - where it's easy to ask for advice...
0:07:59 > 0:08:02- ..and hitch a lift - to the best butcher's shop.
0:08:05 > 0:08:09- The Bakonzo make up the majority - of the inhabitants here...
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- ..but people of many - ethnic backgrounds live here too.
0:08:14 > 0:08:16- Here we are, - meat for tonight's feast.
0:08:16 > 0:08:21- I'm not sure how much confidence - I have in the local hygiene laws!
0:08:21 > 0:08:22- Hello.
0:08:23 > 0:08:25- ASKS FOR A KILO OF GOAT MEAT
0:08:30 > 0:08:33- They say flies enhance the taste!
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- Kasese is more than a market town.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- It's the capital of Rwenzururu. - The kingdom of the mountains.
0:08:46 > 0:08:50- The kingdom's only just achieved - official status in Uganda...
0:08:51 > 0:08:52- ..after years of conflict.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59- When Uganda - became independent in 1962...
0:08:59 > 0:09:04- ..the people of the Rwenzori - expected the same status...
0:09:04 > 0:09:06- ..as the new republic's - other kingdoms.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- But they had to fight for it - for decades.
0:09:17 > 0:09:22- Throughout the long battle, - the mountains were very important...
0:09:22 > 0:09:24- ..and not just for military reasons.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- For people like Syayipuma, - the man leading the walk...
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- ..the mountains - are their spiritual home.
0:09:34 > 0:09:39- The first four years of my education - was in the mountain schools.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42- They taught me so many things.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46- It's obvious that he has a longing - for the mountains.
0:09:47 > 0:09:50- I see the mountains - as being part of my life.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52- It's still in my life.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- I've found myself - living on the lowland now.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- But 97% of my life - is still in the mountain.
0:10:05 > 0:10:06- Dinner time.
0:10:06 > 0:10:09- I've arrived to meet - Syayipuma and his family.
0:10:10 > 0:10:11- I've been fortunate...
0:10:12 > 0:10:15- ..to have many opportunities - to travel over the years.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18- It's always nice - to visit somewhere new.
0:10:19 > 0:10:22- But my favourite part - is getting to know the people.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27- It's immediately obvious - that they're a close family.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30- A family that's proud - of their history and culture...
0:10:30 > 0:10:34- ..even though Syayipuma - insists on speaking English to me.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37- Thank you for making me so welcome.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- Syayipuma's mother still follows - the Bakonzo's old tradition...
0:10:44 > 0:10:46- ..of making clay figures.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48- The family are Christians now...
0:10:49 > 0:10:53- ..but these strange heads take us - back to the gods and legends...
0:10:53 > 0:10:57- ..that were popular here before the - white man arrived with his Bible.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04- The last supper.
0:11:04 > 0:11:08- In the morning, the climb begins to - the home of the old mountain gods.
0:11:09 > 0:11:10- .
0:11:16 > 0:11:16- Subtitles
0:11:16 > 0:11:18- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- A new morning in Uganda - and the adventure's about to begin.
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- A walk up the Rwenzori mountains.
0:11:33 > 0:11:35- A group of guides - are supporting us.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- They'll carry the food, - the cooking equipment, the tents...
0:11:40 > 0:11:44- ..and everything else that's - required for the next three days.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- Syayipuma is up for the challenge!
0:11:54 > 0:11:58- The options are limited in terms - of seeing the Rwenzori mountains.
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- The road ends here.
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- There's no cable car - to take us to the top.
0:12:04 > 0:12:08- Most of the time, the weather's - so bad, you can't film from the air.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- There's only one option - walking.
0:12:14 > 0:12:17- People expect an ex-commando like me - to be fit.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- But climbing at this altitude - is something else.
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- The aim is to follow in the - footsteps of Henry Morton Stanley...
0:12:27 > 0:12:31- ..the famous Welshman - who trekked across Africa in 1889.
0:12:34 > 0:12:39- The highest summit of the Rwenzori - bears his name - Mount Stanley.
0:12:42 > 0:12:47- In other parts of Africa, it's - the wildlife that attracts visitors.
0:12:48 > 0:12:50- It's a real thrill - to see rare animals...
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- ..such as the desert elephants - and the forest elephants.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00- After years of war and poaching...
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- ..the elephants of the Rwenzori - are disappearing.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10- But they sometimes leave tracks - which prove they're still around.
0:13:12 > 0:13:17- Here is a track - of the forest elephant.
0:13:17 > 0:13:20- One of the big mammals - of the Rwenzori.
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- It is quite different - from the savannah elephant...
0:13:25 > 0:13:27- ..because of the size.
0:13:28 > 0:13:29- It is more dangerous...
0:13:30 > 0:13:35- ..because of a lot of shootings - that were here in 1996.
0:13:36 > 0:13:38- Most of them were killed.
0:13:38 > 0:13:42- Joseph sounds like - he knows the elephant well.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45- He also said that he's worked here - for eight years...
0:13:45 > 0:13:47- ..and he's only twice seen one.
0:13:48 > 0:13:50- So our chances are very slim.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53- But it's exciting - to see the tracks...
0:13:53 > 0:13:56- ..and think - there could be elephants here.
0:13:57 > 0:14:00- It'd be a tragedy to lose - the elephants of the Rwenzori.
0:14:05 > 0:14:08- Syayipuma scouts in front of us.
0:14:10 > 0:14:12- He's on the trail of another beast.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16- A beast which scares him.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- Every Bakonzo family has a totem...
0:14:26 > 0:14:30- ..an animal that connects them - with the spiritual world.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34- It's a strong connection...
0:14:34 > 0:14:38- ..even if the creature - is as small as this one.
0:14:46 > 0:14:50- In my language, - it is called akaialungu.
0:14:50 > 0:14:55- This is the Rwenzori chameleon.
0:14:55 > 0:14:58- We have different clans - with different totems...
0:14:58 > 0:15:03- ..birds, animals - and reptiles, of course.
0:15:03 > 0:15:07- There are restrictions for - the Bakonzo in terms of the totem.
0:15:08 > 0:15:10- One of them is touching the totem.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13- For the Bakonzo, it's a taboo.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16- If I hold it...
0:15:17 > 0:15:21- ..after two or three days, - in a period of a week...
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- ..I will develop a skin rash - - scabies.
0:15:25 > 0:15:31- Please believe me, as much as - we are too much westernized...
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- ..all that culture is fading away...
0:15:36 > 0:15:41- ..but somewhere in the Rwenzori, - it is still working.
0:15:41 > 0:15:44- In my language...
0:15:44 > 0:15:47- ..the impossible becomes possible.
0:15:50 > 0:15:51- Time to move on.
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- It's nice that - the National Park authorities...
0:15:55 > 0:15:58- ..have made this part of the walk - easier.
0:16:05 > 0:16:10- We stop for lunch and mull over - the Rwenzori's turbulent past...
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- ..and the efforts to preserve - the park and its animals.
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- Before starting the walk, - I went to see one of the projects...
0:16:21 > 0:16:25- ..which is doing just that - lower down the park.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- Here, - agriculture is being established...
0:16:35 > 0:16:40- ..in an area where locals sustained - themselves by hunting wild animals.
0:16:44 > 0:16:48- Turning their back on the old way of - life is alien to these new farmers.
0:16:54 > 0:17:05- The project gave four acres - to the farmers - four acres...
0:17:05 > 0:17:10- ..a tractor and fertilizer...
0:17:11 > 0:17:14- ..to help them to grow rice.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20- The scheme creates jobs - for local people.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23- It's hard work - for a new recruit like me.
0:17:24 > 0:17:25- LAUGHTER
0:17:27 > 0:17:29- As they sell what they grow...
0:17:29 > 0:17:32- ..they can sustain their families - without having to hunt.
0:17:34 > 0:17:38- So the area's wildlife - benefits as well.
0:17:39 > 0:17:43- As they're earning enough through - the project to support themselves...
0:17:43 > 0:17:48- ..they don't hunt wild animals - any more.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51- I'm trying to keep up.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53- They do this for eight hours a day.
0:17:54 > 0:17:56- No idea how.
0:17:57 > 0:17:59- But the hard work is paying off.
0:18:00 > 0:18:04- We've seen a huge difference.
0:18:05 > 0:18:10- The people - have come round to our side.
0:18:11 > 0:18:14- They tell us - who is actually poaching.
0:18:24 > 0:18:29- Back on the trail, - Syayipuma is keen to get on with it.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34- The weather is changing - and we still have a long way to go.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45- The next few days of climbing...
0:18:45 > 0:18:49- ..will take us up through - different levels in the landscape.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52- From the savannah to rainforest...
0:18:52 > 0:18:55- ..and then through areas of bamboo - and scrub...
0:18:55 > 0:18:59- ..until we reach moorland - close to 4,000m above sea level.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- There, we might see snow - on the summit of Mount Stanley.
0:19:05 > 0:19:08- But that's away in the distance.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- It's not snow that's worrying - Syayipuma today, but rain.
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- The Rwenzori is quite unique...
0:19:16 > 0:19:20- ..and different - from other mountains in Uganda.
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- The weather is unpredictable.
0:19:24 > 0:19:25- Like now.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- This is a very dry season.
0:19:27 > 0:19:32- So many times I've climbed - in June, July, August...
0:19:33 > 0:19:37- ..the dry season, and - there's hardly no rainfall at all.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40- It is raining cats and dogs today!
0:19:44 > 0:19:50- No-one can be sure if the weather - here is more changeable than before.
0:19:52 > 0:19:54- It's not only rain - in these streams.
0:19:55 > 0:19:59- There's also meltwater - from the glaciers near the summit.
0:20:05 > 0:20:09- Around a century ago, there were - 43 glaciers in the Rwenzori.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14- Today, more than half of them - have disappeared.
0:20:17 > 0:20:21- Scientists are concerned - that climate change is responsible.
0:20:24 > 0:20:28- Another big problem, - especially in the rainy season...
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- ..is this next stage.
0:20:31 > 0:20:36- It's the toughest and - most difficult distance to walk...
0:20:36 > 0:20:38- ..for today's walk.
0:20:38 > 0:20:43- From here, - it will be about half a kilometre.
0:20:44 > 0:20:49- But, surprisingly, - you take two hours.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- There are many difficulties - to overcome in the mountains.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- There's currently another battle - going on in the Rwenzori.
0:20:59 > 0:21:00- A battle for the chimpanzee.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18- The chimp has disappeared - from four African countries already.
0:21:18 > 0:21:20- With numbers decreasing...
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- ..the Rwenzori forest - is one of their final strongholds.
0:21:25 > 0:21:27- But they bother local farmers...
0:21:27 > 0:21:30- ..and spoil crops - that grow near the forest.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38- The children of the Rwenzori - need a sustainable future.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42- That's the aim of the project - that tries to strike a balance...
0:21:42 > 0:21:45- ..between agriculture - and the mountain wildlife.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- Every farmer here has cause - for complaint regarding the chimps.
0:21:51 > 0:21:58- As I leave the fields each morning, - the chimps come - and at night too.
0:21:58 > 0:22:04- They used to be fond of the maize, - they'd pull it out the soil.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08- And the cabbage and potatoes too - - and the fruit and beans.
0:22:09 > 0:22:10- The answer?
0:22:10 > 0:22:15- Around the traditional crops, - they've begun planting a new plant.
0:22:15 > 0:22:20- The chimps find it so unpleasant - that they stay away from the fields.
0:22:24 > 0:22:34- The chimps and other wild animals - were destroying the crops.
0:22:35 > 0:22:40- The National Park tried to find - an answer to the problem.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- The answer was - garlic!
0:22:45 > 0:22:49- We started the Garlic Project...
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- ..because the wild animals - hated the garlic.
0:22:54 > 0:23:03- The farmers can also sell the garlic - and make good money.
0:23:05 > 0:23:09- The scheme's transformed local - attitudes towards the chimpanzee.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14- The farmers no longer kill them.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17- They even protect them - from poachers.
0:23:20 > 0:23:27- We've benefited from the project.
0:23:27 > 0:23:35- The whole community - is working with the National Park.
0:23:35 > 0:23:41- The community is ready - to go out on patrol with us.
0:23:42 > 0:23:49- As a result, - poaching is on the wane here now.
0:23:51 > 0:23:54- So changing minds - with the smell of garlic...
0:23:54 > 0:23:59- ..and, it must be said, some money - to sponsor the local football team.
0:24:01 > 0:24:05- At the end of the day, everyone - wants to raise the next Gareth Bale.
0:24:09 > 0:24:09- .
0:24:12 > 0:24:12- Subtitles
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:24:18 > 0:24:21- Day two - of walking the Rwenzori mountains.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29- It's obvious that the wild animals - keep their distance from humans...
0:24:29 > 0:24:32- ..because of years of civil war - and poaching.
0:24:35 > 0:24:39- This is one animal confident enough - to make an appearance.
0:24:42 > 0:24:45- Unfortunately, even seeing - an Ugandan blue monkey...
0:24:45 > 0:24:49- ..isn't enough to raise spirits - and energise my tired legs.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52- I've spent enough time - in the mountains over the years.
0:24:52 > 0:24:58- Here, the combination of - the weather, mud and steep slopes...
0:24:59 > 0:25:02- ..make it a really difficult trek.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04- I'm starting to struggle a bit.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13- By nightfall, I'm very tired.
0:25:19 > 0:25:24- Thankfully, one of the pleasures - of camping awaits in the mountains.
0:25:24 > 0:25:27- At the end of a long day - of walking...
0:25:27 > 0:25:30- ..there's nothing better - than a barbecue.
0:25:31 > 0:25:35- However, you have to be careful - when tasting local delicacies.
0:25:38 > 0:25:42- They were just saying - that a special type of yam...
0:25:42 > 0:25:47- ..makes you scratch your bum - for a week if you eat it.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50- The lads - have just explained that to me now!
0:25:51 > 0:25:53- You can't stop it!
0:25:56 > 0:26:00- Syayipuma tells me that - according to Bakonzo tradition...
0:26:00 > 0:26:03- ..the circle around the fire - makes everyone equal.
0:26:07 > 0:26:09- If you are all around the fire...
0:26:09 > 0:26:12- ..discussing - or maybe telling stories...
0:26:13 > 0:26:15- ..we all sit uniformly.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19- Everyone - has a contribution to make...
0:26:19 > 0:26:22- ..and everyone - has something to learn...
0:26:23 > 0:26:26- ..even the simple act - of building and lighting the fire.
0:26:26 > 0:26:28- Setting up a fire like this...
0:26:28 > 0:26:31- ..is meant to be done - by a child in the family.
0:26:31 > 0:26:35- It was one of the tests, - cultural and traditional...
0:26:35 > 0:26:38- ..that would be given to the boys...
0:26:38 > 0:26:42- ..to show that you were ready - to hold the family on your own.
0:26:43 > 0:26:47- So, beside the fire, they would - discuss development issues.
0:26:47 > 0:26:50- The Bakonzo believe that, - because they stay close to God...
0:26:51 > 0:26:54- ..in these mountainous areas, - you can begin with them.
0:27:00 > 0:27:04- As we climb higher, we get closer - to the homes of the mountain gods.
0:27:10 > 0:27:16- At this height, you don't offend - the gods by talking about them.
0:27:20 > 0:27:23- It's enough - to be aware that they are nearby.
0:27:46 > 0:27:50- In the towns, the presence of - the Bakonzo gods isn't so obvious.
0:27:52 > 0:27:54- It's not that the locals - don't believe...
0:27:54 > 0:27:58- ..but there are plenty of worldly - things to grab their attention.
0:27:59 > 0:28:01- There's another god here...
0:28:03 > 0:28:04- ..coffee.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12- Coffee is one of Uganda's - main exports.
0:28:17 > 0:28:19- Producers, - such as Ithungu Teddy...
0:28:19 > 0:28:24- ..contribute towards a quarter of - the money coming into the country.
0:28:24 > 0:28:27- Ithungu works - for a cooperative coffee company.
0:28:27 > 0:28:31- A company that's grown - with charitable support.
0:28:32 > 0:28:37- Before ascending the mountain, I had - the honour of hearing their story.
0:28:40 > 0:28:47- The cooperative company - is of a huge benefit to us.
0:28:47 > 0:28:53- We plant the coffee together.
0:28:53 > 0:28:57- We gather it together - and go to the market together.
0:28:59 > 0:29:06- Through this system of joint - organization all together...
0:29:06 > 0:29:13- ..we can charge a higher price - than a farmer who works on his own.
0:29:13 > 0:29:19- Ithungu explained that every year, - she sketches out her vision.
0:29:19 > 0:29:23- What she's going to do with the - business, her family and so on.
0:29:23 > 0:29:27- At the start of the scrapbook, there - are no words - she was illiterate.
0:29:28 > 0:29:31- She's now received education. - She can write.
0:29:31 > 0:29:35- Her children attend colleges - and can speak English.
0:29:35 > 0:29:38- Life for her family - has been transformed.
0:29:41 > 0:29:44- The change has been astounding...
0:29:44 > 0:29:48- ..in the quality of the coffee - and the people's quality of life.
0:29:49 > 0:29:53- We used to dry the coffee on - the soil and ruin it by doing so.
0:29:54 > 0:29:58- But we've now learnt - how to use a structure like this.
0:30:00 > 0:30:06- And me - well, I've had the chance - to fly to other parts of the world.
0:30:07 > 0:30:12- It's a way of opening - new markets for our coffee.
0:30:20 > 0:30:26- Out of the profits from the coffee, - we've built a hospital...
0:30:26 > 0:30:29- ..with an operating theatre.
0:30:30 > 0:30:34- We've built new roads and bridges.
0:30:37 > 0:30:39- And even schools.
0:30:42 > 0:30:48- Our children are going to school, - thanks to coffee!
0:30:50 > 0:30:51- I have to admit...
0:30:52 > 0:30:57- ..I've often been sceptical of this - type of micro-finance project...
0:30:57 > 0:31:01- ..especially after seeing quite - a lot of them come to nothing...
0:31:02 > 0:31:03- ..in places like Afghanistan.
0:31:05 > 0:31:07- But after meeting Ithungu today...
0:31:07 > 0:31:11- ..a woman who lived in a shack - in the mountains 15 years ago...
0:31:12 > 0:31:15- ..but who now has a son - who's about to graduate in Law...
0:31:16 > 0:31:20- ..maybe I need to rethink - my attitude towards them.
0:31:21 > 0:31:22- I've learnt a lot today.
0:31:25 > 0:31:30- Wages have increased, - and our standard of living.
0:31:31 > 0:31:40- It's strengthened the family unit. - There's less domestic violence.
0:31:41 > 0:31:45- Rather than accept that everything - belongs to the husband...
0:31:46 > 0:31:49- ..we now say that it belongs - to us all - "Our coffee".
0:31:50 > 0:31:51- "Our house."
0:31:52 > 0:31:53- "Our cattle."
0:31:53 > 0:31:54- "Our money."
0:31:55 > 0:31:58- Possessions belong to wives, to us - nowadays, thanks to the coffee.
0:32:19 > 0:32:23- A strong coffee would do us - the world of good on the trek.
0:32:24 > 0:32:28- Day three, and with every passing - hour, the air becomes less dense.
0:32:28 > 0:32:30- Legs are feeling heavier.
0:32:36 > 0:32:38- When the Bakonzo feel fed up...
0:32:38 > 0:32:42- ..they have special medicine - to lift their spirits.
0:32:46 > 0:32:50- Music and dancing are an integral - part of life in the mountains.
0:32:51 > 0:32:53- The sound of the wooden xylophone, - the endara...
0:32:54 > 0:32:56- ..can be heard - at weddings and funerals.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02- Across the thick forest - of the Rwenzori...
0:33:02 > 0:33:08- ..it's also a call for people - to help with the community harvest.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15- It's said that the music - ascends towards the gods.
0:33:19 > 0:33:23- When the crops require water, the - rain dance can be very effective.
0:33:55 > 0:33:58- There's comfort - in the presence of the gods.
0:33:59 > 0:34:02- But not all in the Rwenzori - is a bed of roses.
0:34:04 > 0:34:05- Man can be very cruel.
0:34:07 > 0:34:09- This is a chimpanzee trap.
0:34:12 > 0:34:19- We're trying to teach the villagers - to respect the chimp.
0:34:20 > 0:34:24- I'm sad to see one in a trap, - as the chimp is my family's totem.
0:34:25 > 0:34:27- It's like a brother or sister to me.
0:34:28 > 0:34:30- We demand that the chimp - can live in safety...
0:34:31 > 0:34:37- ..and call on the entire community - to care for it.
0:34:40 > 0:34:43- To succeed, it will require the help - of the entire community.
0:34:45 > 0:34:49- We formed this group - of chimp scouts...
0:34:50 > 0:34:51- ..and we trained them.
0:34:52 > 0:34:54- These are people - who monitor the chimps.
0:34:54 > 0:34:58- They tell us the abundance - of chimps, locations of chimps...
0:34:58 > 0:35:00- ..and the food available.
0:35:01 > 0:35:07- This is a trap which was found - in the forest laid up by poachers.
0:35:07 > 0:35:12- Some of these areas, the people - lay traps to kill the chimps.
0:35:12 > 0:35:15- People lay traps to kill - monkeys and other primates.
0:35:17 > 0:35:19- Do you know people in your area...
0:35:20 > 0:35:23- ..who lay traps for chimps?
0:35:27 > 0:35:32- Yes - the names of some of them - are known to us...
0:35:32 > 0:35:38- ..and we have strong suspicions - that others are involved.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42- They hunt the chimp...
0:35:43 > 0:35:46- ..because they just love hunting.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49- They kill the chimp - but not necessarily eat it.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51- Others will eat it - a few.
0:35:52 > 0:35:57- Others kill chimps - to give their meat to their dogs.
0:35:58 > 0:36:02- Some hunt chimps - in order to sell them.
0:36:03 > 0:36:06- Education is a slow process.
0:36:06 > 0:36:09- What is needed - for the chimp scheme...
0:36:09 > 0:36:13- ..is the perseverance - evident in Ithungu's coffee project.
0:36:14 > 0:36:19- That kind of spirit would to a lot - of good for the Rwenzori's wildlife.
0:36:24 > 0:36:25- .
0:36:25 > 0:36:25- Subtitles
0:36:25 > 0:36:27- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:36:36 > 0:36:38- On the Rwenzori in Uganda...
0:36:38 > 0:36:42- ..I've walked up the first two - levels of the mountain landscape...
0:36:42 > 0:36:45- ..the rainforest - and the bamboo level.
0:36:45 > 0:36:47- But now, it's getting tough.
0:36:51 > 0:36:54- I've walked - for almost 12 hours today.
0:36:56 > 0:36:59- I've just reached the third layer - - the scrub.
0:36:59 > 0:37:05- Here, 3,500 metres up, you can feel - that the air is thinner.
0:37:06 > 0:37:10- I have to walk a bit harder - to keep up the pace.
0:37:12 > 0:37:15- We're now far above any village.
0:37:16 > 0:37:18- However, these uplands...
0:37:18 > 0:37:22- ..played a part in the battle - for the Bakonzo's culture.
0:37:26 > 0:37:30- The mountains supported us - during the fight for freedom.
0:37:30 > 0:37:34- When the enemy attacked us, - the mountains were our escape.
0:37:34 > 0:37:40- No-one could find us in the caves.
0:37:44 > 0:37:47- There was a good reason - for fleeing from the enemy.
0:37:48 > 0:37:52- In 1964, Uganda - was a newly-independent country.
0:37:54 > 0:37:58- The Bakonzo were keen to form - their own kingdom in the Rwenzori.
0:38:02 > 0:38:05- However, soldiers from Tooro, - a nearby kingdom...
0:38:05 > 0:38:08- ..killed thousands of the Bakonzo.
0:38:08 > 0:38:12- They had no option but to organize - themselves and fight back.
0:38:14 > 0:38:16- Today, the Bakonzo leaders...
0:38:16 > 0:38:20- ..remember the sacrifices - of the long fight for freedom.
0:38:22 > 0:38:27- In 1982, after fighting - in the jungle for twenty years...
0:38:27 > 0:38:30- ..we decided - to come down from the mountains...
0:38:31 > 0:38:37- ..put down our weapons - and agree terms with the Government.
0:38:39 > 0:38:43- It's an honour for me to be accepted - as a soldier amongst them.
0:38:44 > 0:38:48- I receive a gift of a book about - the history of the mountain war.
0:38:50 > 0:38:54- Though the war - ended about 30 years ago...
0:38:54 > 0:38:58- ..you can tell that the same banter - is still evident.
0:38:58 > 0:39:03- The type of friendship - that only exists on a battlefield.
0:39:04 > 0:39:09- You didn't need veteran sashes - to know which ones were ex-soldiers.
0:39:12 > 0:39:16- I hope that you live - the rest of your lives in peace.
0:39:16 > 0:39:17- MAN TRANSLATES
0:39:21 > 0:39:23- The war for recognition is over.
0:39:23 > 0:39:28- But the political fight - to protect their culture continues.
0:39:29 > 0:39:32- We work tirelessly - - we have a just cause...
0:39:32 > 0:39:35- ..and we deserve our rights.
0:39:36 > 0:39:37- God is with us in the battle.
0:39:38 > 0:39:40- One day, we will realize our dream.
0:39:47 > 0:39:52- Part of the dream, official status - for the kingdom, is now a reality.
0:39:53 > 0:39:56- But there's a lot more still to do.
0:40:01 > 0:40:07- Though our kingdom - has been recognized...
0:40:07 > 0:40:11- ..we're still putting pressure - on the Government...
0:40:11 > 0:40:17- ..so we can benefit - from the natural resources here.
0:40:19 > 0:40:23- They have the right - to raise the Rwenzururu flag...
0:40:23 > 0:40:25- ..with the Ugandan national flag.
0:40:31 > 0:40:36- But recent clashes in Kasese - show that tensions continue.
0:40:41 > 0:40:50- The Bakonzo are the original - inhabitants of the Rwenzori.
0:40:57 > 0:41:04- Thank God for giving us - the old mountain of our forefathers.
0:41:04 > 0:41:08- It's the best habitat there is.
0:41:15 > 0:41:20- There's snow on its summits.
0:41:20 > 0:41:25- It gives us clean water to drink.
0:41:25 > 0:41:30- There are magnificent forests...
0:41:33 > 0:41:38- ..fertile soil for our crops...
0:41:42 > 0:41:48- ..and beautiful lakes - which give us fish to eat.
0:41:49 > 0:41:52- We are dependent on this mountain.
0:41:53 > 0:41:57- It sustains us all our lives.
0:42:11 > 0:42:14- We're nearing - the end of the journey.
0:42:14 > 0:42:17- Unfortunately, - the clouds are still with us.
0:42:18 > 0:42:19- After all the effort...
0:42:20 > 0:42:23- ..we probably won't see - the summit of Mount Stanley.
0:42:25 > 0:42:28- But there are other marvels - to see here.
0:42:28 > 0:42:30- Botanical marvels.
0:42:31 > 0:42:34- No-one can look at these - without making an effort.
0:42:35 > 0:42:38- But the effort makes the experience - so much more special.
0:42:39 > 0:42:42- The scrub grows up to six metres...
0:42:42 > 0:42:45- ..higher than anywhere else - in the world.
0:42:47 > 0:42:51- Here, so close to the equator - yet so high above sea level...
0:42:51 > 0:42:53- ..the temperature varies greatly.
0:42:55 > 0:42:58- It's summer by day - and winter by night.
0:43:00 > 0:43:02- There's a jewel in the crown here.
0:43:06 > 0:43:10- People come to Africa to see - the Big Five - the large animals.
0:43:11 > 0:43:16- But among the plants, - it's this, the giant lobelia...
0:43:16 > 0:43:19- ..it's the king of the jungle - in the Rwenzori.
0:43:19 > 0:43:23- Here, a small deer - called the Ruwenzori duiker...
0:43:23 > 0:43:25- ..has been eating the plant.
0:43:26 > 0:43:29- The lads said that anywhere - you find the duiker...
0:43:29 > 0:43:33- ..a Rwenzori leopard will be nearby, - so we'd better keep our eyes peeled.
0:43:38 > 0:43:42- If the leopard's about, - it's hiding in the mist.
0:43:42 > 0:43:46- Also hiding is the summit named - after a Welshman, Mount Stanley...
0:43:47 > 0:43:50- ..and the other mountains - named after European kings.
0:43:53 > 0:43:57- But Syayipuma knows them - by their traditional names.
0:43:58 > 0:44:01- They're the gods' ancient kingdoms.
0:44:03 > 0:44:05- Miraculously, - the clouds lifted at last...
0:44:06 > 0:44:09- ..to reveal the summit - in all its glory.
0:44:15 > 0:44:16- It is the palace.
0:44:16 > 0:44:21- The palace - of the king of the mountains.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25- It is a palace - not as it looks like a palace.
0:44:26 > 0:44:30- It is a palace because - in these Rwenzori mountains...
0:44:30 > 0:44:33- ..Margherita peak, - that highest point...
0:44:33 > 0:44:35- ..meaning the king.
0:44:35 > 0:44:38- Then, it has other mountains.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40- Moebius and Albert.
0:44:40 > 0:44:46- Those two are the kings' wives - for the Rwenzururu.
0:44:51 > 0:44:53- The Rwenzori.
0:44:57 > 0:45:00- Sacred mountains - if ever there were any.
0:45:16 > 0:45:19- It's my final night - with the Bakonzo.
0:45:19 > 0:45:21- Time to celebrate.
0:45:22 > 0:45:24- I do so with a group of dancers...
0:45:24 > 0:45:28- ..who take advantage - of the freedom they now have...
0:45:28 > 0:45:31- ..to practise - their old folk traditions.
0:45:33 > 0:45:37- As a nation, - we felt marginalized and useless...
0:45:37 > 0:45:41- ..because - no-one recognized our king.
0:45:43 > 0:45:47- Having official status has made - a vast difference to the Bakonzo.
0:45:49 > 0:45:53- Now, we're as happy - as other kingdoms...
0:45:54 > 0:45:59- ..because we have - our own king and our own kingdom.
0:46:02 > 0:46:06- I want to give a platform - to our traditions...
0:46:06 > 0:46:10- ..and record our own music.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14- So here I am - supporting the king...
0:46:14 > 0:46:17- ..who wants us - to keep our traditions alive.
0:46:20 > 0:46:23- Some of the old wounds - are disappearing.
0:46:23 > 0:46:25- Despite their terrible history...
0:46:26 > 0:46:29- ..the Bakonzo are obviously - more confident about the future.
0:46:30 > 0:46:32- That's a reason to celebrate.
0:46:33 > 0:46:39- I jump high...
0:46:40 > 0:46:43- ..because I'm allowed - to express my views.
0:46:44 > 0:46:48- I can speak to God - and he will listen.
0:46:49 > 0:46:51- I can celebrate just as I want...
0:46:52 > 0:46:56- ..because the chains that bound me - have been broken.
0:47:00 > 0:47:02- After a glimpse of their heaven...
0:47:02 > 0:47:06- ..who could deny the people - of the Rwenzori a kingdom on earth?
0:47:12 > 0:47:14- Since filming this programme...
0:47:15 > 0:47:18- ..deadly fighting has returned - to the Rwenzori mountains.
0:47:19 > 0:47:22- Tensions with the Ugandan government - continue.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.
0:47:41 > 0:47:42- .