Yr Alpau: Jason Mohammad

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0:00:03 > 0:00:04- Mountains.

0:00:05 > 0:00:07- The upper reaches of the world.

0:00:09 > 0:00:13- A challenge and inspiration - for humanity.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20- The people of the mountains - are tough and inventive.

0:00:21 > 0:00:26- They've learnt how to live here - and maintain a culture.

0:00:29 > 0:00:31- Below, the world is getting warmer.

0:00:32 > 0:00:34- The climate is changing.

0:00:35 > 0:00:41- The mountains are not separate from - the fate of the rest of the planet.

0:00:44 > 0:00:49- From the peaks of Korea to the hills - of the Rwenzori in Africa.

0:00:50 > 0:00:52- From the Alps to the Andes.

0:00:54 > 0:00:57- From the Rockies to the Himalayas.

0:00:59 > 0:01:04- This is the story of living - on the high parts of Earth.

0:01:07 > 0:01:08- The mountains of the world.

0:01:16 > 0:01:20- The Alps

0:01:23 > 0:01:29- In the Alps are some of the - most famous mountains in the world.

0:01:32 > 0:01:35- Quite simply, - coming here is a real thrill.

0:01:38 > 0:01:39- The Matterhorn.

0:01:40 > 0:01:41- What a mountain.

0:01:50 > 0:01:52- I was raised in the city.

0:01:52 > 0:01:57- As a Cardiff boy, - mountains weren't a part of my life.

0:01:58 > 0:02:01- They certainly weren't - a part of modern life.

0:02:09 > 0:02:14- But here, the modern world has - entered the heart of the mountains.

0:02:15 > 0:02:20- When it broke through and the two - tunnels met, it was very emotional.

0:02:22 > 0:02:27- Tunnels and main roads make it easy - to travel through the mountains...

0:02:27 > 0:02:29- ..on the train or in the car.

0:02:32 > 0:02:35- In very modern ways, - people are thronging here...

0:02:35 > 0:02:38- ..to share in the thrill.

0:02:40 > 0:02:45- If I said I wasn't a thrill seeker, - I'd be lying to myself.

0:02:48 > 0:02:53- For scientists, the Alps is a place - to hold unique experiments...

0:02:53 > 0:02:55- ..at extreme altitude.

0:02:55 > 0:03:00- A huge laboratory that demonstrates - our huge debt to nature.

0:03:00 > 0:03:05- The water towers of Europe - - that's the Alps for you.

0:03:05 > 0:03:08- As the ice melts, - the Alps gives us a warning...

0:03:09 > 0:03:13- ..about the damage wreaked on nature - today all over the continent.

0:03:16 > 0:03:18- I always thought of the mountains...

0:03:18 > 0:03:22- ..as an escape - from the pressures of modern life.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24- Here, in Switzerland...

0:03:24 > 0:03:29- ..they've brought the mountains - and the modern world together.

0:03:29 > 0:03:35- I've come to see how the people - of the Alps have done it.

0:03:54 > 0:03:58- Living in Switzerland. - Living in the modern world.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03- The economy is buoyant...

0:04:03 > 0:04:08- ..and the eight million - living in the country have plenty.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14- Trains speed through the valleys - and flatlands.

0:04:14 > 0:04:18- Each one arrives and departs - right on time.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23- But, if there is one - European country...

0:04:23 > 0:04:27- ..synonymous with the word - mountains, Switzerland is it.

0:04:27 > 0:04:31- Ever since the days - of Hannibal and his elephants...

0:04:31 > 0:04:34- ..the Swiss Alps - have been a barrier...

0:04:34 > 0:04:39- ..to every army that wanted to cross - the continent to Italy in the south.

0:04:41 > 0:04:45- No-one was powerful enough - to move the Alps.

0:04:46 > 0:04:51- You know what they say, if the - mountain won't come to Mohammad...

0:04:51 > 0:04:54- ..then Mohammad - must go to the mountain.

0:05:10 > 0:05:13- Gerard Devenes - farms in the mountains.

0:05:14 > 0:05:17- He grows apricots and keeps bees.

0:05:17 > 0:05:22- But, his passion is this, - the alpenhorn.

0:05:39 > 0:05:43- Tell me about the alpenhorn. - The alpenhorn is a wood instrument.

0:05:43 > 0:05:48- It's how we used to send messages - from valley to valley...

0:05:48 > 0:05:50- ..like the Red Indians' - smoke signals.

0:05:51 > 0:05:59- Messages to draw attention - or to announce a birth or death.

0:05:59 > 0:06:04- It was shorter back then - and the - shepherds used it as a staff too.

0:06:07 > 0:06:11- Today, Gerard's not the only one who - comes to the top of the mountain.

0:06:17 > 0:06:21- They come from all around - for an annual festival...

0:06:22 > 0:06:25- ..celebrating the music - and traditions of the Alps.

0:06:35 > 0:06:40- This is the main attraction, - a 100-strong orchestra...

0:06:40 > 0:06:44- ..each one playing the alpenhorn.

0:06:45 > 0:06:48- TRADITIONAL ALPENHORN MUSIC

0:07:03 > 0:07:05- It's hard to believe today...

0:07:06 > 0:07:09- ..but 25 years ago, almost - no-one here played the alpenhorn.

0:07:11 > 0:07:14- An uncle of Gerard - had to re-establish the tradition.

0:07:16 > 0:07:23- People talked about the alpenhorn, - but hardly anyone played it.

0:07:23 > 0:07:30- But since then, there's been - a great deal of interest.

0:07:35 > 0:07:43- The music is more challenging today. - We play old and modern pieces.

0:07:44 > 0:07:52- We have composers - with a deep knowledge of music...

0:07:52 > 0:07:56- ..and we're broadening the sound - of the alpenhorn.

0:08:01 > 0:08:06- By doing that, the sound - strengthens the old relationship...

0:08:06 > 0:08:09- ..between the people - and their mountains.

0:08:12 > 0:08:17- Since learning the alpenhorn, - I feel closer to the mountains.

0:08:20 > 0:08:27- I don't want to leave the mountains - - ever! I'm in harmony with them.

0:08:29 > 0:08:34- The alpenhorn's echo is beautiful.

0:08:34 > 0:08:40- I love life, the mountains, - apricots and the alpenhorn!

0:08:41 > 0:08:46- Today, more than 20% of - the Swiss population are immigrants.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51- Most of them - come from other European countries.

0:08:53 > 0:08:57- I wonder what place this festival, - an eisteddfod of the Alps...

0:08:57 > 0:08:59- ..has in people's lives.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03- Bravo! Merci beaucoup!

0:09:06 > 0:09:08- It's nice just to wander around.

0:09:08 > 0:09:12- It's obvious that everyone here - shares a great culture.

0:09:12 > 0:09:16- I hope this culture - is open to the wider world.

0:09:18 > 0:09:20- I talked about this - with Karin Niederboger...

0:09:21 > 0:09:23- ..president - of this year's festival.

0:09:24 > 0:09:31- What is the mountain culture? - Hard work, freedom and nice scenery!

0:09:32 > 0:09:39- With a globalizing world, - our young people need support.

0:09:39 > 0:09:44- They're returning to their roots.

0:09:45 > 0:09:52- They want to learn the alpenhorn, - how to handle flags, how to yodel.

0:09:52 > 0:09:58- They want to contribute - to Swiss culture.

0:10:09 > 0:10:15- It's crucial as we all try and - live in harmony with each other...

0:10:15 > 0:10:20- ..here in Switzerland and beyond.

0:10:20 > 0:10:26- A festival such as this, the music - too, is an important foundation...

0:10:26 > 0:10:30- ..to the multicultural society - we live in.

0:10:35 > 0:10:38- Friends, we can't depend...

0:10:39 > 0:10:42- ..on institutions and politics...

0:10:42 > 0:10:45- ..for our unity and peace.

0:10:48 > 0:10:53- I'm amazed and astounded at the - variety and magic of this festival.

0:10:54 > 0:10:57- Congratulations!

0:10:58 > 0:11:03- Give yourselves a round of applause - - and a big hurrah!

0:11:08 > 0:11:12- Karin herself - maintains the yodelling tradition.

0:11:13 > 0:11:19- I sang from a very early age on the - farm with my mother and grandmother.

0:11:20 > 0:11:28- My parents did the milking in the - evening, I did the washing up...

0:11:28 > 0:11:35- ..and I'd sing with my grandmother, - and then a duet with my mother.

0:11:35 > 0:11:37- KARIN YODELS

0:12:04 > 0:12:06- Karin makes yodelling sound easy.

0:12:07 > 0:12:09- JASON TRIES TO YODEL

0:12:10 > 0:12:12- It's not.

0:12:13 > 0:12:15- JASON TRIES AGAIN

0:12:19 > 0:12:21- KAREN YODELS

0:12:22 > 0:12:24- JASON TRIES AGAIN

0:12:30 > 0:12:32- AND AGAIN

0:12:35 > 0:12:37- You're very good. Excellent.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41- First prize - at the National Eisteddfod!

0:12:41 > 0:12:42- Thank you.

0:12:42 > 0:12:43- .

0:12:47 > 0:12:47- Subtitles

0:12:47 > 0:12:49- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:12:52 > 0:12:54- A festival in the Alps.

0:12:54 > 0:12:58- A opportunity to taste the music - of the mountains, and the food too!

0:13:01 > 0:13:05- One of the Alpine people's - favourite food is the raclette.

0:13:06 > 0:13:11- It's cheese roasted in a small oven - and served with potatoes and salad.

0:13:11 > 0:13:14- Of course, - it's necessary that I sample it.

0:13:16 > 0:13:18- I love food.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20- Thank you very much. Merci bien.

0:13:22 > 0:13:24- Well, this is the raclette.

0:13:28 > 0:13:30- Mmm!

0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Very tasty.

0:13:34 > 0:13:35- Tres bien.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39- I'm keen to learn more - about how they make the cheese...

0:13:40 > 0:13:44- ..and about the farms that are - the backbone of this tradition.

0:13:46 > 0:13:49- Early next morning, - I meet Sophie Bagnoud.

0:13:49 > 0:13:54- Early morning for me, - but she's been busy for three hours!

0:13:55 > 0:14:01- Sophie and her husband Jean-Marc - got up at four to do the milking.

0:14:06 > 0:14:09- The work is a passion, not a job.

0:14:09 > 0:14:14- As a married couple, - it's not easy for us.

0:14:15 > 0:14:20- Between farming on the mountain...

0:14:21 > 0:14:28- ..with the long hours involved, - and other workers about...

0:14:28 > 0:14:34- ..our relationship as a couple - comes second.

0:14:38 > 0:14:42- The cattle - don't live here all year round.

0:14:42 > 0:14:44- Alpine farmers maintain a system...

0:14:45 > 0:14:50- ..that's similar to traditional - farming practices in Wales.

0:14:52 > 0:14:57- The cattle come to this - highland farm, Alpage...

0:14:57 > 0:14:59- ..during the summer only.

0:15:00 > 0:15:03- They're magical animals.

0:15:04 > 0:15:09- It's a strange thing to say, but - they seem to sympathize with us...

0:15:09 > 0:15:15- ..in the way they look at us, - or rub against us.

0:15:18 > 0:15:23- If we respect animals, we'll come - to respect our fellow man.

0:15:23 > 0:15:26- But we have to respect the animals - first.

0:15:27 > 0:15:32- This breed, Herens cattle, are known - for fighting amongst themselves.

0:15:33 > 0:15:38- The Queen, the dominant one, - gets to graze the best grass.

0:15:39 > 0:15:44- Every calf fights at a young age.

0:15:45 > 0:15:48- It's in their nature.

0:15:48 > 0:15:52- Over the summer, - a hierarchy becomes evident.

0:15:53 > 0:15:59- In every area, a fight is arranged - to find the Regional Queen.

0:16:00 > 0:16:04- Then, the national championships - are shown live on television...

0:16:04 > 0:16:06- ..across the country.

0:16:07 > 0:16:11- I'm not sure - if it would work on Final Score!

0:16:12 > 0:16:15- Every cow has a name.

0:16:15 > 0:16:17- That's Magalie. Ayica is the Queen.

0:16:18 > 0:16:20- She's stronger than all the rest.

0:16:26 > 0:16:32- This is Bandit, - a pleasant little cow.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38- That's the danger!

0:16:39 > 0:16:42- That cow got driven out.

0:16:42 > 0:16:49- The Queen wins the best place in the - field - towards the bottom normally.

0:16:49 > 0:16:54- When she comes, the rest stay away.

0:16:54 > 0:16:59- While Sophie cares for the cattle, - Jean-Marc handles their milk.

0:17:02 > 0:17:04- He does this every morning.

0:17:05 > 0:17:08- He has to complete every step - in the process on time...

0:17:09 > 0:17:12- ..in order to produce cheese - of the highest standard.

0:17:13 > 0:17:17- Through making raclettes at Alpage - in the traditional way...

0:17:17 > 0:17:21- ..Sophie and Jean-Marc - can command the best prices...

0:17:21 > 0:17:26- ..from the fashionable delicatessens - once the cheeses have matured.

0:17:27 > 0:17:31- The cheese is ready - after 2-3 months.

0:17:31 > 0:17:41- A little more for breakfast cheese - or to have with your evening coffee.

0:17:42 > 0:17:51- We sometimes have a - very mature raclette, 12-18 months.

0:17:53 > 0:18:01- It's salty by then. You have to have - an aperitif with it - a quiet drink!

0:18:04 > 0:18:08- The old traditions - are still strong here.

0:18:09 > 0:18:15- It's more than a century now since - the modern world reached the Alps...

0:18:16 > 0:18:17- ..on the train.

0:18:29 > 0:18:34- A railway that cut through the - mountains was close to a miracle.

0:18:34 > 0:18:39- But it wasn't always possible - to lay a flat track...

0:18:40 > 0:18:44- ..despite building - hundreds of bridges and tunnels.

0:18:46 > 0:18:52- The Alpine railways are famous - therefore for their cog railway...

0:18:53 > 0:18:57- ..which enabled the trains - to negotiate the steepest of slopes.

0:18:59 > 0:19:03- I'm on the most dramatic - of them all.

0:19:04 > 0:19:08- Tourists go on it - to enjoy the stunning views...

0:19:08 > 0:19:11- ..on top of the Jungfraujoch...

0:19:11 > 0:19:16- ..3,500m above sea level.

0:19:17 > 0:19:21- For the fit ones, there's a station - halfway up the summit.

0:19:22 > 0:19:25- They can walk the rest of the way.

0:19:26 > 0:19:31- Today, it's cloudy - and the forecast doesn't look great.

0:19:31 > 0:19:35- It would also be a pity to waste - the ticket I have to the top!

0:19:35 > 0:19:40- Everyone on the train wants nice - weather on top of the mountain.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42- Well, everyone apart from one man.

0:19:43 > 0:19:45- Hello. Good morning.

0:19:45 > 0:19:48- Ghislain Motos - is on his way to work.

0:19:48 > 0:19:51- That work requires clouds.

0:19:53 > 0:19:56- To reach Ghislain's office...

0:19:56 > 0:20:00- ..the train must finish its journey - in this tunnel...

0:20:00 > 0:20:03- ..which takes us - through the rock and ice.

0:20:06 > 0:20:09- Here we are, the highest - railway station in Europe.

0:20:09 > 0:20:12- It's three times higher - than Snowdon.

0:20:17 > 0:20:21- The station buildings - cling to the edge of the mountain...

0:20:21 > 0:20:23- ..just under the summit.

0:20:25 > 0:20:28- But Ghislain's office - is higher still.

0:20:31 > 0:20:33- This is the Sphinx research station.

0:20:36 > 0:20:41- This high up, scientists can do - all kinds of experiments...

0:20:42 > 0:20:44- ..which wouldn't - usually be possible.

0:20:45 > 0:20:49- So, Ghislain's very familiar - with these corridors.

0:20:50 > 0:20:54- He comes to stay for weeks at a time - to study the clouds.

0:20:55 > 0:20:56- This is your room.

0:20:56 > 0:21:01- Ghislain's a Frenchman - but his research is done in English.

0:21:01 > 0:21:06- He wanted to use that language - to explain it all to me.

0:21:06 > 0:21:09- The first night is not so easy - because of altitude problems.

0:21:10 > 0:21:12- But you get used to it - quite quickly.

0:21:12 > 0:21:14- You must have an incredible view.

0:21:15 > 0:21:19- The problem is, - we can only see clouds today.

0:21:19 > 0:21:21- Ghislain's main interest...

0:21:21 > 0:21:26- ..is the small particles raised - by clouds when we burn carbon.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29- That's why he likes today's weather.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32- For me, it's dream weather.

0:21:32 > 0:21:34- What I want to look at...

0:21:34 > 0:21:38- ..are the interactions between - the fine particles and the clouds.

0:21:39 > 0:21:42- This place is around 40% of the time - in the clouds.

0:21:43 > 0:21:48- Ghislain uses the conditions - on top of the mountain...

0:21:48 > 0:21:53- ..to look at how the carbon - damages the climate for everyone.

0:21:53 > 0:21:57- The particles I'm working on, - we call it black carbon.

0:21:57 > 0:22:00- They are emitted - by combustion processes.

0:22:00 > 0:22:02- So when we burn fossil fuels...

0:22:03 > 0:22:07- ..when residential heating - and transport emit this particle...

0:22:07 > 0:22:11- ..we know that when they're emitted, - that's pure carbon.

0:22:12 > 0:22:16- At the bottom of the valley, - the particles don't affect the fog.

0:22:17 > 0:22:20- But, as they rise with the clouds...

0:22:20 > 0:22:23- ..they grow a skin - which carry and store water.

0:22:23 > 0:22:27- Hydrophilic coating - is the scientific term.

0:22:28 > 0:22:33- These particles don't influence the - clouds or on fog in the valley...

0:22:33 > 0:22:36- ..but we're not sure - what's the influence here...

0:22:37 > 0:22:39- ..in the clouds - after 10 or 20 hours of transport.

0:22:40 > 0:22:44- Then you have this hydrophilic - coating that can uptake water.

0:22:46 > 0:22:49- The presence - of water-carrying particles...

0:22:49 > 0:22:52- ..changes the behaviour of clouds.

0:22:52 > 0:22:57- That's what Ghislain's trying to - measure at the Sphinx laboratory.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01- We know that by emitting particles - by pollution...

0:23:01 > 0:23:04- ..we influence - the life cycle of the clouds.

0:23:04 > 0:23:09- We can make them bigger, whiter - and live longer.

0:23:09 > 0:23:12- This influence - on the life cycle of the clouds...

0:23:12 > 0:23:16- ..influences the global climate - of Earth.

0:23:17 > 0:23:21- Ghislain - wants to improve the models...

0:23:21 > 0:23:27- ..used by scientists and politicians - as they consider climate change.

0:23:28 > 0:23:32- Currently, as far as the clouds - are concerned...

0:23:32 > 0:23:34- ..the models are uncertain.

0:23:35 > 0:23:40- My part of the job is to help - to decrease the uncertainty...

0:23:40 > 0:23:44- ..with all scientists working - together around the world...

0:23:45 > 0:23:48- ..to understand what's happening - inside the clouds...

0:23:48 > 0:23:51- ..and being able to predict - really well the Earth climate.

0:23:51 > 0:23:54- I'm not a scientist, - not by a long way...

0:23:55 > 0:23:58- ..but through talking to Ghislain...

0:23:58 > 0:24:02- ..the importance of his work has - made things a bit clearer for me.

0:24:04 > 0:24:06- I've learned something today.

0:24:06 > 0:24:11- Ghislain's learned something too - - the Welsh word for cloud.

0:24:11 > 0:24:12- Cwmwl.

0:24:12 > 0:24:14- Cwmwl.- - Well done. Keep it up.

0:24:35 > 0:24:39- Before catching the train - back down the Jungfraujoch...

0:24:39 > 0:24:42- ..I have one more experience - waiting for me.

0:24:46 > 0:24:49- Walking inside an ice tunnel.

0:24:52 > 0:24:54- It's cold here, of course...

0:24:54 > 0:24:59- ..but the tourists love seeing - the fantastic sculptures.

0:25:01 > 0:25:05- It's all possible, - even in the middle of summer...

0:25:05 > 0:25:10- ..because we're inside one of the - most famous features of the Alps.

0:25:11 > 0:25:13- The English word is glacier.

0:25:13 > 0:25:16- In Welsh, it's "rhewlif".

0:25:16 > 0:25:19- There's also an old Welsh word - - alprew (alpine ice).

0:25:20 > 0:25:22- That's exactly where we are.

0:25:25 > 0:25:29- In other areas, - the glacier's melting.

0:25:31 > 0:25:34- This is the glacier at the head - of the Rhone river valley.

0:25:36 > 0:25:40- Dr Andreas Bauder - comes here regularly.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44- He's one of a team of scientists - who measure this glacier...

0:25:45 > 0:25:49- ..and ones in 100 locations - across Switzerland every year.

0:25:52 > 0:25:58- A glacier is like a bank account.

0:26:00 > 0:26:04- The balance is what matters - - the inflows and outflows.

0:26:06 > 0:26:10- The measurements prove that - every glacier is decreasing in size.

0:26:12 > 0:26:19- At the moment, - there's more melting than freezing.

0:26:20 > 0:26:25- Climate change - is responsible for that.

0:26:25 > 0:26:30- The temperature - has been rising for 150 years.

0:26:30 > 0:26:34- But the amount of rain is the same.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41- It's no wonder - the glacier's retreating.

0:26:41 > 0:26:46- More ice is melting - and less is forming.

0:26:49 > 0:26:51- Today, - meltwater is collecting here...

0:26:52 > 0:26:55- ..in a bright lake - on top of the mountain.

0:26:57 > 0:27:03- It then flows to the valley below - along its long journey to the sea.

0:27:11 > 0:27:15- Many kilometres down the valley - is the small village of Gletsch.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20- In pictures from the last century...

0:27:20 > 0:27:23- ..the ice extends - to the village outskirts.

0:27:25 > 0:27:28- Today, it's river water - that flows here.

0:27:30 > 0:27:34- The glacier has retreated - to the head of the valley...

0:27:34 > 0:27:37- ..leaving a track of bare rock - in its wake.

0:27:39 > 0:27:42- The water towers of Europe - - that's the Alps for you.

0:27:44 > 0:27:48- The glacier's - a part of the water cycle.

0:27:49 > 0:27:54- It stores water and returns it to us - when there isn't much rainfall.

0:27:55 > 0:28:02- The ice melts - and the water flows into the rivers.

0:28:06 > 0:28:12- The largest flow comes from the Alps - giving water to half of Europe.

0:28:12 > 0:28:18- In the summer especially, - we depend on the glacier.

0:28:20 > 0:28:22- The Rhone glacier.

0:28:23 > 0:28:25- Magnificent scenery.

0:28:25 > 0:28:29- But a bleak outlook - for the entire continent.

0:28:32 > 0:28:32- .

0:28:33 > 0:28:33- Subtitles

0:28:33 > 0:28:35- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:28:40 > 0:28:42- Be it summer or winter...

0:28:42 > 0:28:47- ..it's difficult to convey - the stunning beauty of the Alps.

0:28:49 > 0:28:52- It's no surprise - that people are so keen...

0:28:52 > 0:28:58- ..to take advantage of any - opportunity to see these mountains.

0:28:59 > 0:29:01- From every angle.

0:29:11 > 0:29:15- They are very, very beautiful...

0:29:15 > 0:29:19- ..but the Alps isn't a paradise.

0:29:19 > 0:29:24- Millions of people - live and work here...

0:29:24 > 0:29:28- ..and, of course, - they play here too.

0:29:33 > 0:29:38- Every year, there's more and more - pressure on the Alps.

0:29:41 > 0:29:44- The ski season fills Switzerland...

0:29:44 > 0:29:48- ..with tourists from every other - European country and beyond.

0:29:51 > 0:29:53- After the snow's melted...

0:29:53 > 0:29:56- ..the roads to the mountains - are open to everyone.

0:29:58 > 0:30:01- It's lovely having a wander - in the bright sunshine.

0:30:01 > 0:30:05- Going through the valleys - and climbing up and up.

0:30:06 > 0:30:09- It's easy to forget one thing.

0:30:09 > 0:30:13- Going up so high is no easy matter.

0:30:14 > 0:30:17- We're now in the clouds.

0:30:17 > 0:30:21- Since the weather has the ability - to change so quickly...

0:30:21 > 0:30:24- ..there's danger - to every mountain journey.

0:30:29 > 0:30:33- It's comforting therefore - that experienced help is at hand...

0:30:33 > 0:30:35- ..if needed.

0:30:41 > 0:30:46- When an accident happens, we depend - on the professionalism of rescuers.

0:30:46 > 0:30:51- But, quite often, behind that - are more personal stories.

0:30:52 > 0:30:56- This centre, - Maison Francois-Xavier Bagnoud...

0:30:56 > 0:30:59- ..has been built - after a sad experience.

0:30:59 > 0:31:02- But it's an uplifting story.

0:31:04 > 0:31:08- My son, Francois-Xavier Bagnoud...

0:31:08 > 0:31:14- ..was an aeronautical engineer - and helicopter pilot...

0:31:14 > 0:31:18- Tragically, in 1986, - he died in a helicopter accident.

0:31:18 > 0:31:24- In his memory, his mother and I - founded a rescue service for all.

0:31:29 > 0:31:33- Before he died, he talked to me...

0:31:33 > 0:31:37- ..about the need - for an emergency service.

0:31:48 > 0:31:52- The foundation is part of - the national emergency network.

0:31:52 > 0:31:55- The demand for it is high.

0:31:56 > 0:32:03- In nice weather, with the mountains - so beautiful, people will go there.

0:32:04 > 0:32:11- And when people are there, accidents - will happen - in summer and winter.

0:32:12 > 0:32:16- Families out for a walk...

0:32:16 > 0:32:20- ..or extreme climbing - - everyone is in danger.

0:32:22 > 0:32:24- It's a mixed team.

0:32:25 > 0:32:30- The helicopter crew, doctors - and guides all pulling together.

0:32:32 > 0:32:36- Modern technology - in an ancient landscape.

0:32:40 > 0:32:45- Bringing the modern world to - the mountains isn't a contradiction.

0:32:45 > 0:32:52- It complements. - We profit from medical technology.

0:32:52 > 0:32:56- Ultrasound, defibrillators - - the latest advances.

0:32:56 > 0:33:00- But it doesn't go against nature.

0:33:02 > 0:33:06- In some strange way, the - special atmosphere at the airport...

0:33:06 > 0:33:09- ..is obvious to all who go there.

0:33:11 > 0:33:15- It's now 30 years - since Francois-Xavier died.

0:33:17 > 0:33:21- But, the presence of the young man - is still here.

0:33:23 > 0:33:28- However, Bruno acknowledges - that one aspect of the work...

0:33:28 > 0:33:32- ..has been completely transformed - since his son's days.

0:33:32 > 0:33:40- Communication is the thing. Why? - Because it saves time.

0:33:40 > 0:33:47- In a mountainous area like this one, - fast communication was impossible.

0:33:51 > 0:33:55- There were no phones in - the ski lodges, no mobile gadgets.

0:33:55 > 0:34:02- You'd have to run down the mountain - if there was an accident.

0:34:03 > 0:34:07- The work reminds everyone - constantly...

0:34:07 > 0:34:10- ..how easily things can turn sour - in the mountains.

0:34:12 > 0:34:17- The mountain doesn't forgive anyone - who makes a serious error.

0:34:18 > 0:34:21- But here we rise above - our everyday lives...

0:34:22 > 0:34:24- ..and see things differently.

0:34:26 > 0:34:33- So, we love the mountains. - It's our land.

0:34:33 > 0:34:42- We're at home here, but we also - respect the mountains too.

0:34:54 > 0:34:59- The mountains are a raison d'etre. - They're magnificent.

0:35:01 > 0:35:07- They can't be tamed. - You have to live with them.

0:35:07 > 0:35:14- Yes, the danger is there, - but we practise for that.

0:35:14 > 0:35:18- In modern terms - of risk and benefit...

0:35:18 > 0:35:23- ..there's no way we cannot go there - - the mountain is too beautiful!

0:35:25 > 0:35:27- The beauty of the mountains.

0:35:28 > 0:35:30- The danger of the mountains.

0:35:30 > 0:35:34- Here, they are inseparable.

0:35:34 > 0:35:35- .

0:35:38 > 0:35:38- Subtitles

0:35:38 > 0:35:40- Subtitles- - Subtitles

0:35:40 > 0:35:41- Mountains.

0:35:42 > 0:35:46- If you wanted to travel - from one side to the other...

0:35:46 > 0:35:49- ..they're awkward things.

0:35:50 > 0:35:55- Sometimes, you can't go over them - and you can't go around them.

0:35:55 > 0:35:57- You have to go through them.

0:36:00 > 0:36:04- 2,000 years since Hannibal and - his elephants crossed the Alps...

0:36:05 > 0:36:09- ..the mountains are still here - - blocking the way to Italy.

0:36:11 > 0:36:13- But, in 1998...

0:36:13 > 0:36:19- ..the Swiss voted for a new railway - to be built through the Alps.

0:36:26 > 0:36:30- Twenty years later, - this is the Gotthard Base Tunnel.

0:36:31 > 0:36:36- At 57 kilometres, it's the longest - railway tunnel in the world.

0:36:42 > 0:36:47- One of the principal engineers - is Christine Ebenhoeg.

0:36:47 > 0:36:52- Working in a tunnel is a challenge, - especially for a woman.

0:36:52 > 0:36:57- But the technical problems - don't care who solves them.

0:36:57 > 0:37:00- Working together - is what's difficult.

0:37:03 > 0:37:06- There was a team - at both ends of the tunnel...

0:37:06 > 0:37:11- ..boring a hole towards each other - from the north and south...

0:37:11 > 0:37:14- ..with the aim - of meeting in the middle.

0:37:17 > 0:37:21- At last, in 2010, - came the big moment.

0:37:36 > 0:37:42- When it broke through and the two - tunnels met, it was very emotional.

0:37:44 > 0:37:47- North and south met.

0:37:47 > 0:37:51- After 57 kilometres, - the tunnel line was more accurate...

0:37:51 > 0:37:56- ..than in any project of its kind - in the history of construction.

0:37:59 > 0:38:05- Through the tunnels' length, we were - accurate to the width of my hand.

0:38:06 > 0:38:08- The height was within - the thickness of a finger.

0:38:08 > 0:38:12- Across, it was - only the length of a finger.

0:38:12 > 0:38:17- That's the only difference - from south to north.

0:38:21 > 0:38:25- While her team moved towards - finishing the work...

0:38:26 > 0:38:30- ..interest in the tunnel turned - into an obsession in Switzerland.

0:38:30 > 0:38:34- Faced with all kinds of - interfering questions...

0:38:34 > 0:38:37- ..Christine turned to her family - for help.

0:38:39 > 0:38:43- As a mother, - my family were always on my mind.

0:38:43 > 0:38:48- My four daughters - came to the site often...

0:38:49 > 0:38:54- ..and learnt about - what was going on.

0:38:55 > 0:38:58- If people asked questions...

0:38:59 > 0:39:05- ..I'd send them to the children - for a full explanation.

0:39:07 > 0:39:11- Last year, the trains - started running through the tunnel.

0:39:16 > 0:39:19- At a speed of 250km per hour...

0:39:19 > 0:39:22- ..they cross the Alps - in a quarter of an hour.

0:39:26 > 0:39:30- Building a tunnel protects nature.

0:39:30 > 0:39:36- We're not affecting - the top of the mountain at all.

0:39:37 > 0:39:41- It's still peaceful there, - and time stands still...

0:39:41 > 0:39:47- ..but if you're in a rush - well, - the tunnel's the place to go!

0:39:50 > 0:39:53- There are many paths - through the Alps.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57- Many ways to experience its magic.

0:39:59 > 0:40:04- As you go higher, the modern world - gradually disappears.

0:40:05 > 0:40:08- Only the ancient peaks remain.

0:40:15 > 0:40:20- A helicopter ride above the - fashionable resort of Zermatt...

0:40:20 > 0:40:22- ..teaches me one very clear lesson.

0:40:23 > 0:40:26- How small we are as people...

0:40:27 > 0:40:30- ..and how big the mountains are.

0:40:36 > 0:40:39- As a sports broadcaster...

0:40:39 > 0:40:45- ..I'm aware that the word 'buzz' - is used far too often in public.

0:40:45 > 0:40:50- But that's exactly what this is, - a buzz.

0:40:53 > 0:40:58- Even here, there's probably - something spectacularly modern...

0:40:58 > 0:41:01- ..hiding amongst ancient slopes.

0:41:03 > 0:41:06- The Matterhorn - dwarfs everything around it.

0:41:07 > 0:41:11- But I don't think recognizing - the place will be difficult.

0:41:19 > 0:41:22- The Monte Rosa Hut...

0:41:22 > 0:41:26- ..a cabin for people - who walk, climb and ski here.

0:41:26 > 0:41:29- It belongs - to the Swiss Alpine Club.

0:41:31 > 0:41:35- Inside its aluminium walls, - there's accommodation for 120.

0:41:37 > 0:41:41- Sam Anthamatten is a familiar face - in the Monte Rosa.

0:41:43 > 0:41:46- He works here - as a mountain guide...

0:41:46 > 0:41:50- ..for visitors - looking for adventure.

0:41:50 > 0:41:54- He looks after - their health and safety.

0:41:55 > 0:42:02- Climbing the 4,000-metre mountains - is the aim of the people I guide.

0:42:02 > 0:42:08- You must understand the mountain, - but understand the person as well.

0:42:08 > 0:42:14- It's a matter of combining the two, - and making wise decisions.

0:42:18 > 0:42:22- When guiding people here, you must - give them your time and attention.

0:42:22 > 0:42:27- Some are experienced, some aren't - - you must adapt to every situation.

0:42:28 > 0:42:32- There are more than 100 guides - working in the area.

0:42:32 > 0:42:33- Sam is the youngest.

0:42:34 > 0:42:38- There's a lot of responsibility - on young shoulders, therefore.

0:42:38 > 0:42:45- I was raised in Zermatt - a very - special place in the mountains.

0:42:46 > 0:42:50- For me, it was one big playground.

0:42:51 > 0:42:56- The mountains call me.

0:42:56 > 0:43:01- They've steered - the course of my life.

0:43:01 > 0:43:06- But it isn't as a guide - that Sam is now famous.

0:43:07 > 0:43:12- He's a master at one of the - most exciting sports in the world...

0:43:13 > 0:43:15- ..freeskiing.

0:43:22 > 0:43:27- The biggest challenge - is pushing myself to the extreme...

0:43:27 > 0:43:33- ..but staying within safety limits.

0:43:33 > 0:43:37- Staying safe is what matters most.

0:43:37 > 0:43:43- But I do go close to those limits - - that's extreme sport for you!

0:43:53 > 0:43:58- When skiing, it's as if - everything happens in slow motion.

0:44:07 > 0:44:12- Every second, there are loads - of options - but I choose rapidly.

0:44:13 > 0:44:16- Sam, are you a thrill seeker?

0:44:17 > 0:44:22- If I said I wasn't a thrill seeker, - I'd be lying to myself.

0:44:23 > 0:44:33- Of course, there's an adrenaline - rush as you reach the bottom safely.

0:44:43 > 0:44:47- The mountains aren't a part - of my life - they are my life.

0:44:47 > 0:44:50- I need the mountains.

0:44:51 > 0:44:55- I wouldn't be happy in a city.

0:44:55 > 0:44:58- The mountains have shaped my life.

0:44:58 > 0:45:01- I can't live without them.

0:45:20 > 0:45:22- Throughout my journey...

0:45:22 > 0:45:26- ..I've met people - who are loyal to these mountains.

0:45:32 > 0:45:35- They respect the heritage - of the Alps...

0:45:37 > 0:45:40- ..and work towards a better future.

0:45:46 > 0:45:48- They want to protect - life as it is now...

0:45:51 > 0:45:54- ..and discover what exactly - will make it possible...

0:45:55 > 0:45:57- ..to live here tomorrow.

0:46:01 > 0:46:06- It's been astonishing to see how - Alpine people treat their mountains.

0:46:06 > 0:46:11- With pride, respect and love.

0:46:22 > 0:46:26- Above all, they revel in the thrill - of living here.

0:46:31 > 0:46:35- Of leading modern lives - in an old, old landscape.

0:46:38 > 0:46:42- They're determined to enjoy - the benefits of the modern world...

0:46:42 > 0:46:47- ..and combine them with - the mountains' exceptional nature.

0:47:26 > 0:47:28- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

0:47:28 > 0:47:29- .