0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
0:00:00 > 0:00:02- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:00:04 > 0:00:05- Mountains.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09- The upper reaches of the world.
0:00:10 > 0:00:14- A challenge and inspiration - for humanity.
0:00:17 > 0:00:21- The people of the mountains - are tough and inventive.
0:00:22 > 0:00:26- They've learnt how to live here - and maintain a culture.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- Below, the world is getting warmer.
0:00:33 > 0:00:35- The climate is changing.
0:00:35 > 0:00:41- The mountains are not separate from - the fate of the rest of the planet.
0:00:44 > 0:00:49- From the peaks of Korea to the hills - of the Rwenzori in Africa.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53- From the Alps to the Andes.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58- From the Rockies to the Himalayas.
0:00:59 > 0:01:04- This is the story of living - on the high parts of Earth.
0:01:07 > 0:01:09- The mountains of the world.
0:01:18 > 0:01:22- The Andes
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- I'm in the Andes, the longest - mountain chain in the world.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37- It extends almost 4,500 miles...
0:01:38 > 0:01:41- ..along the west coast - of South America.
0:01:41 > 0:01:46- Along the chain are volcanoes - and striking summits...
0:01:46 > 0:01:49- ..which climb up to 20,000ft.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54- Only in the Himalayas - will you find higher mountains.
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- This is a landscape of extremes - if ever there was one.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04- Extreme agriculture.
0:02:05 > 0:02:10- Our forefathers understood what - grew best at every terrace level.
0:02:10 > 0:02:13- Look how high those terraces are. - It's unbelievable.
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- The extremes of the highest town in - the world are hard to believe too.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- Gold is mined here...
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- ..but the poor have to - scrape a living in the rubbish tips.
0:02:27 > 0:02:33- Sometimes I get a bucket or two - of ore in a week.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36- Sometimes - nothing.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- But a different type of gold - hides in the mountains.
0:02:42 > 0:02:46- These golden animals produce - the most valuable wool in the world.
0:02:46 > 0:02:49- Her coat is so fine.
0:02:50 > 0:02:51- It's so beautiful.
0:02:52 > 0:02:56- There's extreme beauty - in the mountains themselves as well.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- I'm standing in front of - the Cordillera and Pomabamba...
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- ..which are part - of the Peru-Bolivia border.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- They're one example - of the amazing scenery...
0:03:09 > 0:03:12- ..that extends along - an entire continent.
0:03:12 > 0:03:14- Extreme running is my passion.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- But tackling the Amazonian jungle - or the Arctic...
0:03:19 > 0:03:24- ..aren't enough to prepare me - for running at extreme altitude.
0:03:27 > 0:03:33- These are the Andes, where people - live life to the extreme.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39- 45 million years ago, a series - of seismic movements began...
0:03:40 > 0:03:42- ..which pushed the rocks upwards...
0:03:42 > 0:03:46- ..to form a landscape - which dominates South America.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- The Andes have shaped the entire - continent's weather and climate.
0:03:56 > 0:04:00- It's also given a unique character - to the lives and culture...
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- ..of the people - who've made their home here.
0:04:04 > 0:04:09- This is one of the Andes' - most famous cities, Cusco, in Peru.
0:04:10 > 0:04:13- It's a World Heritage Site - and the capital of the Incas...
0:04:13 > 0:04:17- ..the kings of the largest empire - in the Americas...
0:04:17 > 0:04:19- ..before - the arrivals of the Europeans.
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- Walking through Cusco - for the first time...
0:04:24 > 0:04:27- ..is literally breathtaking.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- We're 12,000ft above sea level.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- That's three times higher - than Snowdon.
0:04:34 > 0:04:38- The air might be thin - and the oxygen lacking...
0:04:38 > 0:04:40- ..but one thing's for sure...
0:04:41 > 0:04:45- ..this place - has an incredibly rich history.
0:04:47 > 0:04:52- If a day staring at ancient - monuments takes your breath away...
0:04:54 > 0:04:59- ..in the evening, a lack of oxygen - is likely to floor you.
0:05:01 > 0:05:03- That's what worries me...
0:05:03 > 0:05:07- ..as I join a group - taking part in the latest gym craze.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- I came across CrossFit - in Lima in 2009.
0:05:15 > 0:05:22- When I came to the city of Cusco, - no-one was ready for a new sport.
0:05:23 > 0:05:29- I had to open my own gym.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- A tough combination - of gymnastics and weights...
0:05:35 > 0:05:38- ..is what Griella has introduced - to her new highland home.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43- It's a popular gym - - the highest one in the world!
0:05:43 > 0:05:47- Adapting to the altitude - is horrible.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- Believe you me, - no matter how fit you are...
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- ..the mountains - take you to another level.
0:05:59 > 0:06:05- The exercise is so intense that - it takes people to the 'Puke Box'.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09- Being sick is an annoyance - but other dangers are even worse.
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- Rhabdomyolysis - an illness - which comes over you suddenly.
0:06:15 > 0:06:21- It can kill you, - if you ask too much of your body.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27- According to Griella, - there's no way to predict...
0:06:28 > 0:06:31- ..how altitude will affect people - coming to the gym.
0:06:32 > 0:06:43- For me, weightlifting is the hardest - thing - it requires many strengths.
0:06:43 > 0:06:51- At this altitude, you need a strong - heart as well as physical strength.
0:07:00 > 0:07:04- That's enough fighting the altitude - for now.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- Fighting between two cultures...
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- ..is what's shaped the history - of the people in these mountains.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15- In the streets of Cusco...
0:07:15 > 0:07:18- ..both cultures, - the Conquistadors and the Incas...
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- ..can literally be seen - on top of each other.
0:07:27 > 0:07:31- The terracotta roofs - of the Spanish conquerors...
0:07:31 > 0:07:33- ..now fill the Cusco horizon.
0:07:34 > 0:07:39- But if you look down, you'll see - the foundations of the old town...
0:07:39 > 0:07:41- ..that's been here for far longer.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43- This wall was here...
0:07:43 > 0:07:47- ..before Columbus discovered - the Americas five centuries ago.
0:07:49 > 0:07:55- The stones, whatever their shape, - fit perfectly, like a huge jigsaw.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58- The pity is we can no longer see...
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- ..the entirety of these - wonderful ancient buildings.
0:08:05 > 0:08:08- The Spaniard might have destroyed - their old palaces...
0:08:09 > 0:08:12- ..but the Incas were the real - masters of living in the highlands.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- This ancient site, Moray, - proves this.
0:08:21 > 0:08:26- Not far to the north west of Cusco - is the Incas' sacred valley...
0:08:27 > 0:08:31- ..which is full of - striking and iconic ruins.
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- It's a valley which was central...
0:08:34 > 0:08:38- ..to the way the Incas - mastered life here in the mountains.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43- In a natural hollow - on the valley slopes...
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- ..archaeologists - have discovered a site...
0:08:46 > 0:08:50- ..which, at first glance, - looks like an amphitheatre.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- These circles, - with their terraces...
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- ..have puzzled historians - and experts over the years.
0:08:59 > 0:09:04- But, they're now starting - to understand their purpose.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10- The latest research suggests...
0:09:10 > 0:09:13- ..that Moray - was an agricultural laboratory.
0:09:15 > 0:09:18- One of the site's - remarkable features...
0:09:18 > 0:09:21- ..is the huge difference - in temperature...
0:09:21 > 0:09:24- ..between - the highest and lowest terraces.
0:09:24 > 0:09:26- It's as much as 15 degrees.
0:09:28 > 0:09:31- This enabled the Incas - to experiment...
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- ..and discover - the best growing conditions.
0:09:36 > 0:09:37- With this information...
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- ..the Incas succeeded - in transforming this continent...
0:09:41 > 0:09:45- ..in the same way - that the Romans transformed Europe.
0:09:45 > 0:09:51- They say that as many as 60% of all - the food crops in the world today...
0:09:52 > 0:09:53- ..come from the Andes.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56- Some of these would've grown here.
0:09:58 > 0:10:00- The way they created a system...
0:10:00 > 0:10:03- ..to live - even in these tough conditions...
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- ..changed the history - of the whole continent.
0:10:07 > 0:10:11- They were - the Romans of the Americas.
0:10:16 > 0:10:22- But then came the Spaniards, - who saw the fertile land.
0:10:22 > 0:10:25- They swept the Incas aside.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32- The natives had to escape - even higher up the mountains.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- So high that farming was impossible.
0:10:37 > 0:10:42- Impossible for everyone - apart from the Incas.
0:10:43 > 0:10:43- .
0:10:48 > 0:10:48- Subtitles
0:10:48 > 0:10:49- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:10:49 > 0:10:52- The Moray terraces near Cusco.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55- The Incas' agricultural nursery.
0:10:55 > 0:11:00- But, after the Spanish conquistadors - nabbed the best land...
0:11:00 > 0:11:03- ..the Incas - had to use their farming skills...
0:11:04 > 0:11:07- ..on some - of the roughest terrain on Earth.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12- The valleys - that cut through the mountains...
0:11:12 > 0:11:16- ..in this part of the Andes - are extremely steep.
0:11:16 > 0:11:20- But, the Incas succeeded - in making use of the land.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24- Around a million hectares - of terraces had been built...
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- ..before the Spanish arrived, - and they can still be seen today.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34- This is Cuyocuyo, a remote community - in a high valley...
0:11:34 > 0:11:36- ..on the eastern side - of the Andes.
0:11:36 > 0:11:41- The Incas' farming methods - still sustain the people here today.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- But there's more to their heritage - than agriculture.
0:11:45 > 0:11:55- Our methods come from our ancestors, - and the way we work the land.
0:11:55 > 0:12:02- It's in the blood, - the love for the Cuyocuyo valley.
0:12:04 > 0:12:09- We're proud of our culture, - our folklore, our dancers, etc. etc.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13- It all comes from our ancestors.
0:12:13 > 0:12:17- Ademir Mamani, - a man of many talents.
0:12:17 > 0:12:20- A musician, farmer and teacher.
0:12:20 > 0:12:24- When he's finished working - in the classroom or the fields...
0:12:24 > 0:12:28- ..he likes to play the siku - or zampona instrument...
0:12:28 > 0:12:32- ..that's as traditional - as the area's colourful clothes.
0:12:33 > 0:12:38- The Andes' great music - can be heard all over the world.
0:12:38 > 0:12:44- But here, close to his roots, he - expresses the people's feelings...
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- ..and pays tribute to ancient gods.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58- For the mountain people, - pleasing the gods is very important.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- Before planting and harvesting...
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- ..a offering must be given - to Pachamama, mother earth.
0:13:07 > 0:13:11- It's a ritual honoured - since farming began here.
0:13:15 > 0:13:19- I happen to be visiting Ademir - during a symbolic week.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23- A new moon in the fourth month - of the old Inca calendar...
0:13:23 > 0:13:26- ..which is when maize is planted.
0:13:29 > 0:13:34- Some of the terraces - date back to pre-Incan times...
0:13:34 > 0:13:37- ..and others from the time - of the Incas themselves.
0:13:38 > 0:13:42- The history is missing, - but we continue to use it.
0:13:43 > 0:13:45- Because of the terrain - and mountains...
0:13:46 > 0:13:51- ..there's no modern machinery here, - not even animals to help out.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54- This is tough manual labour...
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- ..using very simple equipment, - that is almost archaic.
0:14:02 > 0:14:04- Thank you.
0:14:04 > 0:14:06- Fair play to Ademir...
0:14:07 > 0:14:08- One?
0:14:08 > 0:14:09- One?- - Yes.
0:14:09 > 0:14:10- Uno.
0:14:10 > 0:14:14- ..he's patient enough - to show me how to do some planting.
0:14:16 > 0:14:23- Modern technology wouldn't work here - - simple tools are what's needed!
0:14:23 > 0:14:25- Some elbow grease, therefore.
0:14:29 > 0:14:37- Chakitaklla - a foot plough, and a - Rawkana - a hoe. That's what we use.
0:14:38 > 0:14:40- OK. Bravo!
0:14:40 > 0:14:42- Thank you very much!
0:14:42 > 0:14:43- Thank you very much!
0:14:44 > 0:14:46- That's hard work.
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- And I've only done a little.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52- Something tells me - that he's being kind.
0:14:55 > 0:14:56- It's a very hard life.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01- I only did a small bit - and I was out of breath.
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- Some of these farmers - have to climb and walk miles...
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- ..to reach their terraces - before even starting a day's work.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13- It's very tough, physical work.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16- Look how high these terraces are.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34- Centuries after the Incas...
0:15:34 > 0:15:38- ..the rhythm of mountain farming - is still enchanting.
0:15:42 > 0:15:46- The old terraces - provide insurance against famine.
0:15:46 > 0:15:48- If the crops fail on one level...
0:15:48 > 0:15:52- ..others might well be thriving - higher up or lower down...
0:15:53 > 0:15:57- ..where the wind, rain and sun - create different conditions.
0:15:59 > 0:16:04- The foundation of - the Cuyocuyo economy is farming.
0:16:05 > 0:16:11- But globalization - is driving everyone to the cities.
0:16:12 > 0:16:15- They're turning their backs - on farming...
0:16:15 > 0:16:23- ..and our grandparents' practices, - and those of their ancestors too.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30- The farmers' diligence is what keeps - these valley communities alive...
0:16:30 > 0:16:35- ..despite the flow of the young - to the Andes' towns and cities.
0:16:36 > 0:16:42- We used to grow potatoes by the ton.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- Maize too.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- Now, after gathering the maize, - yacon is the harvest.
0:16:50 > 0:16:56- We were hard-working people. But the - young have no desire for hard work.
0:16:56 > 0:17:01- They're unwilling to work - like farmers of old.
0:17:02 > 0:17:07- The terraces have been neglected.
0:17:07 > 0:17:12- We used to farm many acres of land.
0:17:12 > 0:17:15- Now, they're barren.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17- Young people have left.
0:17:17 > 0:17:22- And here I am, - trying to do it all by myself.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39- Outside Cuyocuyo...
0:17:39 > 0:17:43- ..the road climbs dangerously - along the valley's steep sides.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48- Above the tree line, - the winter snow has melted...
0:17:48 > 0:17:50- ..and the fields - are ready for planting.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53- But the agricultural land - that exists here...
0:17:54 > 0:17:56- ..is open - to the worst of the elements.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00- Here, in the Andean highlands...
0:18:00 > 0:18:04- ..the people who've been coming here - for centuries...
0:18:04 > 0:18:09- ..to hunt, farm - or to mine the natural resources...
0:18:09 > 0:18:14- ..have had to adapt - to a problem which strikes anyone...
0:18:14 > 0:18:19- ..who does any physical work - - a lack of oxygen.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- Over the generations, - labouring up here...
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- ..has changed the natives' bodies.
0:18:32 > 0:18:34- There's evidence that their lungs...
0:18:35 > 0:18:38- ..are larger than those - who live at sea level.
0:18:39 > 0:18:44- But they also depend on a drug - which gives them a boost...
0:18:44 > 0:18:48- ..to persevere with the hard work - in the thin air...
0:18:48 > 0:18:49- ..coca leaves.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- These people - wanted me to have a taste.
0:19:00 > 0:19:05- I'm not sure what to say. - It tastes a bit like grass to me.
0:19:07 > 0:19:13- But, um, Hector is 87 years old - and he still farms.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17- He told me - that these leaves are the secret.
0:19:18 > 0:19:23- He also admits that he has no - teeth left after years of chewing.
0:19:25 > 0:19:29- As high up as this, it doesn't - matter how long you work...
0:19:29 > 0:19:33- ..you can't be assured - of a successful harvest.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39- The wind is too strong, - the earth is too dry...
0:19:39 > 0:19:41- ..and the growing season - is too short.
0:19:43 > 0:19:48- But farmers have discovered - another secret to sustain them.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53- We're 4,500m above sea level.
0:19:53 > 0:19:57- The wind is blustery and it's cold.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02- We have an oxygen tank in the car - because how thin the air is.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06- There's hardly any vegetation here.
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- However, despite all these - challenging conditions...
0:20:10 > 0:20:13- ..these farmers - have not only survived...
0:20:13 > 0:20:17- ..they've managed to make a living - in the mountains.
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- The secret is camels - - Andean camels...
0:20:23 > 0:20:27- ..a family of animals - which include alpacas and llamas.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- They're adapted - to life at extreme altitude.
0:20:33 > 0:20:36- But one breed of Andean camel...
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- ..is rarer and more valuable - than all the rest.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- I'm about to meet them.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48- It's no wonder that Andean people - consider them so valuable.
0:20:52 > 0:20:52- .
0:20:54 > 0:20:54- Subtitles
0:20:54 > 0:20:56- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:20:58 > 0:21:02- As part of a scheme - to protect Peru's national animal...
0:21:02 > 0:21:08- ..vet Victor Iquise is on his way - to a remote community in the Andes.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15- Here, a herd of vicunas - live in a huge pen.
0:21:16 > 0:21:21- Fifty years ago, only a few thousand - vicunas were left in the Andes.
0:21:21 > 0:21:27- But conservation work - has lifted numbers to over 100,000.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33- The official efforts - to protect them continues.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37- Once a year, - the mountain communities...
0:21:38 > 0:21:41- ..are allowed to shear - their valuable wool.
0:21:44 > 0:21:48- This year again, Victor comes - to keep an eye on the shearing...
0:21:48 > 0:21:50- ..on behalf of the authorities.
0:21:50 > 0:21:55- It's work that brings him back - to Trapiche, the area of his birth.
0:21:55 > 0:22:01- This is my home patch, - and I return as often as possible.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04- This place calls me.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09- I grab every opportunity - to work here.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18- Like in Wales, shearing day - is quite an event in Trapiche.
0:22:19 > 0:22:24- The entire community is keen - to take part in the chacu ceremony.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- The first thing is the fence.
0:22:29 > 0:22:35- A nylon fence and eucalyptus poles - to trap the animals.
0:22:36 > 0:22:44- Other people on the hills - drive the vicunas down.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- This is amazing to see.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53- An entire community working together - to bring the vicuna...
0:22:53 > 0:22:57- ..which are obviously so prized - by them, down to the village.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00- The chacu ceremony.
0:23:00 > 0:23:03- I've read about these animals - but I've never seen them.
0:23:04 > 0:23:09- Even from here, I can see - they're graceful and beautiful.
0:23:11 > 0:23:16- I'm so glad that they still exist - and that they roam free.
0:23:21 > 0:23:24- Everyone looks like - they're having fun.
0:23:25 > 0:23:28- But this is serious business - for the community.
0:23:29 > 0:23:33- The animals must be treated - according to government guidelines.
0:23:33 > 0:23:38- This is a young animal - so they've decided to let her go.
0:23:39 > 0:23:43- Her coat is so fine.
0:23:44 > 0:23:46- So beautiful.
0:23:46 > 0:23:48- You're so beautiful.
0:23:48 > 0:23:52- It's no wonder that Andean people - consider them so valuable.
0:23:54 > 0:23:59- After the gathering, - I get the very special honour...
0:24:00 > 0:24:02- ..of starting the chacu officially.
0:24:03 > 0:24:04- Muchas gracias.
0:24:05 > 0:24:07- Aqui.
0:24:07 > 0:24:08- Aqui.- - Oh, right.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11- I feel like the Queen - launching a yacht.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13- But I'm launching the chacu.
0:24:14 > 0:24:15- OK. Hard, yes?
0:24:22 > 0:24:24- Muchas gracias!
0:24:29 > 0:24:30- I'm soaked!
0:24:32 > 0:24:33- Oh dear.
0:24:33 > 0:24:36- I'm sure the Queen - doesn't do it like that.
0:24:38 > 0:24:40- Thank you. Muchas gracias.
0:24:43 > 0:24:46- Shearing the vicunas - dates back to the time of the Incas.
0:24:46 > 0:24:49- Back then, - wearing the vicunas' wool...
0:24:49 > 0:24:53- ..was an honour - afforded to the noblemen only.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59- Today, everyone can wear clothes - made from vicuna wool.
0:25:00 > 0:25:03- But, in reality, - only the rich can afford them.
0:25:04 > 0:25:06- This wool is so light.
0:25:08 > 0:25:09- It's extremely fine.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13- It's no wonder - that only the royal family...
0:25:13 > 0:25:15- ..were allowed to wear this - years ago.
0:25:15 > 0:25:21- Nowadays, people are willing - to spend many thousands...
0:25:21 > 0:25:25- ..on a small scarf - made from vicuna wool.
0:25:26 > 0:25:31- On average, - every animal produces 500g of wool.
0:25:32 > 0:25:34- There was only 200g on this one.
0:25:35 > 0:25:38- She will probably - not be sheared again for two years.
0:25:40 > 0:25:43- Its scarcity - along with its quality...
0:25:43 > 0:25:48- ..makes the vicunas' wool one of the - most expensive fibres in the world.
0:25:48 > 0:25:52- Without the money - that comes from selling the wool...
0:25:52 > 0:25:56- ..a poor community like Trapiche - wouldn't survive.
0:25:56 > 0:26:04- This is the only type of animal - which can sustain this area.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10- No other creature - would be tough enough.
0:26:11 > 0:26:15- The saviours of Trapiche. - Away they go for another year.
0:26:21 > 0:26:27- But, it's not only Trapiche shearers - who benefit from the Andean camels.
0:26:27 > 0:26:32- The wool sustains another tradition - important to the mountain economy...
0:26:33 > 0:26:34- ..weaving.
0:26:36 > 0:26:39- Andean weavers - are famous for their skills...
0:26:39 > 0:26:44- ..and for inventing techniques that - are now used all over the world.
0:26:47 > 0:26:51- The clothes are practical and warm - in the cold mountain climate.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54- But the colours and patterns...
0:26:54 > 0:26:58- ..tell a story - about whoever makes and wears them.
0:27:02 > 0:27:10- This is our identity - how we - present ourselves to the world.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13- Everyone here speaks Quechuan...
0:27:13 > 0:27:21- ..but our clothes, hats and scarves - are all different.
0:27:21 > 0:27:24- This is the ancient village - of Chinchero...
0:27:24 > 0:27:29- ..a resting place for the Incas - on their way through the Andes.
0:27:29 > 0:27:30- Yes.
0:27:31 > 0:27:35- Here, Nilda is leading a revival - in the area's weaving tradition.
0:27:36 > 0:27:40- Skills and knowledge - were in danger of disappearing...
0:27:40 > 0:27:44- ..as cheap clothes from abroad - supplanted traditional garments.
0:27:46 > 0:27:50- Nilda's response to concerns that - the old way of life was dying out...
0:27:51 > 0:27:53- ..was to establish this centre.
0:27:54 > 0:28:01- I hope this time, the tradition - will continue, with our children...
0:28:01 > 0:28:06- ..maintaining the top quality, - without lowering their standards.
0:28:07 > 0:28:11- The older women are passing on - the craft to the next generation.
0:28:11 > 0:28:15- Our mothers taught us how to weave.
0:28:15 > 0:28:21- The patterns have been - passed down unbroken.
0:28:21 > 0:28:24- You could say - that the Chinchero textiles...
0:28:25 > 0:28:28- ..are being weaved once more - into the village lifestyle.
0:28:29 > 0:28:33- It's fun, but so complicated too!
0:28:35 > 0:28:40- To begin with, - we had synthetic colours.
0:28:40 > 0:28:45- Treating the natural colours takes - practice - but it gets easier.
0:28:49 > 0:28:54- For centuries, people looked down - on the Andes' native people...
0:28:54 > 0:28:56- ..and mocked their traditions.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00- This venture - restores their self-respect.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05- It's a hard craft. It takes time.
0:29:06 > 0:29:15- But I delight in the women's skills.
0:29:15 > 0:29:20- I'm so proud, - and everyone here's the same.
0:29:22 > 0:29:24- Thanks to Nilda...
0:29:24 > 0:29:28- ..I've also experienced - how weaving brings satisfaction.
0:29:30 > 0:29:31- Great, you see?
0:29:32 > 0:29:34- In a few minutes more, - you will be better.
0:29:47 > 0:29:48- Titicaca.
0:29:48 > 0:29:51- South America's largest lake.
0:29:52 > 0:29:56- This is the highest water in the - world that's deep enough for boats.
0:29:59 > 0:30:01- Dawn over the waters.
0:30:01 > 0:30:04- A sight to calm every mind.
0:30:07 > 0:30:10- But something's bothering me - this morning.
0:30:13 > 0:30:17- Having run extreme marathons - in the Amazon and the Arctic...
0:30:17 > 0:30:21- ..I've come to the shore of the lake - to prove something to myself...
0:30:22 > 0:30:24- ..that I've acclimatized - to the thin air.
0:30:26 > 0:30:31- Up here, there's only 60% - of the oxygen found at sea level.
0:30:32 > 0:30:34- Breathing is hard work.
0:30:34 > 0:30:38- But, training at altitude - is a big advantage for athletes.
0:30:38 > 0:30:42- The body - produces more red blood cells...
0:30:42 > 0:30:45- ..and mitochondria - to produce energy.
0:30:45 > 0:30:49- This all helps the body - to take in more oxygen.
0:30:49 > 0:30:53- But, it obviously doesn't happen - overnight!
0:30:54 > 0:30:55- That was hard.
0:30:58 > 0:30:59- Really, really hard.
0:31:00 > 0:31:05- Frustrating too, because I know - I can run much further.
0:31:05 > 0:31:11- But I feel - I've run about 100 miles...
0:31:11 > 0:31:13- ..rather than a few miles.
0:31:13 > 0:31:18- My legs are tired because - I'm not getting enough oxygen...
0:31:18 > 0:31:20- ..into my lungs.
0:31:20 > 0:31:22- My lungs are screaming.
0:31:23 > 0:31:24- All I can say...
0:31:24 > 0:31:28- ..is I have the utmost respect - for the people who live here.
0:31:30 > 0:31:33- To see what they do, - day in, day out...
0:31:34 > 0:31:35- Hard work.
0:31:37 > 0:31:41- I'm 3,850m above sea level...
0:31:41 > 0:31:43- ..and don't I know it!
0:31:49 > 0:31:55- For an athlete, pushing yourself - to the limit is enough reward.
0:31:56 > 0:31:59- But, other people - come to the mountains...
0:31:59 > 0:32:02- ..looking for - far more substantial rewards.
0:32:05 > 0:32:10- A desire for gold has attracted - many here since time immemorial...
0:32:10 > 0:32:11- ..despite the dangers.
0:32:12 > 0:32:15- One story - enthralled the conquistadors...
0:32:16 > 0:32:18- ..and drove many to their death...
0:32:18 > 0:32:22- ..the legend of a golden city, - El Dorado.
0:32:24 > 0:32:24- .
0:32:27 > 0:32:27- Subtitles
0:32:27 > 0:32:29- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:32:30 > 0:32:35- El Dorado, the legend of a - golden city hidden in the mountains.
0:32:37 > 0:32:39- Since time immemorial...
0:32:39 > 0:32:44- ..it's enticed people to the Andes - to look for untold riches.
0:32:47 > 0:32:50- But this isn't the way to El Dorado.
0:32:50 > 0:32:53- This is the so-called road to hell.
0:32:55 > 0:32:58- Every week, - thousands of desperate men...
0:32:58 > 0:33:01- ..throng here - from the Altiplano towns...
0:33:02 > 0:33:06- ..in the hope of finding enough gold - to transform their lives.
0:33:06 > 0:33:12- They rush towards a new town, - 5,000m above sea level.
0:33:13 > 0:33:15- There's gold here...
0:33:15 > 0:33:19- ..but you won't see the golden - buildings promised in the legends.
0:33:23 > 0:33:27- Rather, these zinc shacks - are home to 30,000 miners...
0:33:27 > 0:33:29- ..during the working week.
0:33:31 > 0:33:35- Another 30,000 people - live here permanently...
0:33:36 > 0:33:41- ..which has given La Rinconada - a place in the record books.
0:33:42 > 0:33:44- Welcome - to the highest town in the world.
0:33:46 > 0:33:50- The highest, - but not the cleanest by a long way.
0:33:51 > 0:33:57- The gold mined here - is processed using mercury...
0:33:57 > 0:34:02- ..which has polluted the water, - the soil and the air here.
0:34:03 > 0:34:05- Walking the streets...
0:34:05 > 0:34:09- ..I avoid the filth - that flows through the open sewers.
0:34:10 > 0:34:15- But, the old dream of golden riches - still attracts people here...
0:34:15 > 0:34:18- ..despite - the nightmarish conditions.
0:34:19 > 0:34:23- La Rinconada has been described - as "ice hell on earth".
0:34:23 > 0:34:29- Yet, among all the chaos, - a community has developed.
0:34:29 > 0:34:34- There are shops, schools, - markets and even a church.
0:34:34 > 0:34:37- There's a special festival - on this weekend.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40- The service - is being held in the main square.
0:34:40 > 0:34:44- I'm going to see who's come here...
0:34:44 > 0:34:48- ..to escape from the so-called - ice hell around me.
0:34:50 > 0:34:55- One person who knows everyone here - is Father Martin, the parish priest.
0:34:55 > 0:34:58- The parish - is celebrating its birthday today.
0:34:59 > 0:35:08- It's three years - since this area was built.
0:35:09 > 0:35:17- The day before yesterday, it was - the birthday of the whole town.
0:35:18 > 0:35:20- How are you? Are you OK?
0:35:20 > 0:35:23- How's the family?
0:35:23 > 0:35:25- How's your health?
0:35:32 > 0:35:35- The Andean people - are known across the world...
0:35:35 > 0:35:38- ..for their willingness - to raise festive cheer.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42- The air is thin - and it's freezing cold...
0:35:42 > 0:35:46- ..but that's not reason enough - to dampen the party mood.
0:35:50 > 0:35:54- I don't know how they have - the breath to play the instruments!
0:35:57 > 0:36:01- A special occasion such as this - is medicine for the soul.
0:36:01 > 0:36:06- Father Martin knows that something - is needed to raise spirits.
0:36:08 > 0:36:13- As a Christian, I try - to support people in their faith...
0:36:13 > 0:36:20- ..because so many people - die here every day.
0:36:22 > 0:36:27- Who here - doesn't have a cross to bear?
0:36:27 > 0:36:32- A work cross, an illness cross.
0:36:33 > 0:36:43- A cross from losing a son, husband, - brother, friend or colleague.
0:36:43 > 0:36:48- Jesus asks us - to carry the cross with him.
0:36:50 > 0:36:53- Here's a town on a mountaintop...
0:36:53 > 0:36:58- ..that's full of bad places, - in a poor spiritual state...
0:36:58 > 0:37:04- ..with thieves - and murderers everywhere.
0:37:10 > 0:37:13- In the cantinas - around the main square...
0:37:13 > 0:37:17- ..the drinking and chatting - start from early morning.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21- The fights haven't started yet - but it won't be long.
0:37:23 > 0:37:26- It's only ten in the morning - and that bar is packed.
0:37:27 > 0:37:30- Prostitution is widespread here.
0:37:30 > 0:37:34- The lucky workers with money - in their pockets are an easy target.
0:37:35 > 0:37:39- But most of the mines' profits - disappears down the mountain.
0:37:39 > 0:37:43- There's little left - to fund law and order here.
0:37:44 > 0:37:46- The town's market is busy...
0:37:46 > 0:37:51- ..but La Rinconada's real business - takes place even higher up.
0:37:57 > 0:37:59- Here's where they mine for gold.
0:37:59 > 0:38:04- Shafts and tunnels extend - almost a mile into the mountain.
0:38:05 > 0:38:08- But even before reaching the gold...
0:38:08 > 0:38:10- ..the workers are in danger.
0:38:12 > 0:38:15- Above the works is a huge glacier...
0:38:15 > 0:38:19- ..La Bella Durmiente - - the sleeping beauty.
0:38:21 > 0:38:25- But when she awakens from - her slumber as the weather warms...
0:38:25 > 0:38:29- ..large blocks of ice - fall on the works below.
0:38:31 > 0:38:35- Inside the mines, - the danger is even worse.
0:38:36 > 0:38:39- Nevertheless, - thousands try their luck here...
0:38:40 > 0:38:44- ..despite the fact that most of them - do not receive a penny in wages.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49- It's run on an ancient labour system - called cachorreo.
0:38:51 > 0:38:54- Miners do a month of unpaid work.
0:38:55 > 0:38:56- On the last day of the month...
0:38:57 > 0:39:02- ..they get to keep as much gold ore - as they can carry from the face.
0:39:02 > 0:39:06- In reality, - they drive off with more than that.
0:39:06 > 0:39:10- But there's no certainty - there's a speck of gold...
0:39:10 > 0:39:14- ..in those loads which are - the reward for a month of toil.
0:39:16 > 0:39:19- Fortunato Choque's name is apt.
0:39:19 > 0:39:21- He's fortunate.
0:39:22 > 0:39:25- He's worked here long enough - to become a foreman...
0:39:25 > 0:39:28- ..a role that does provide some pay.
0:39:30 > 0:39:39- Three cooperative companies - control the mining here.
0:39:40 > 0:39:45- Seven Wonders is the strange name - of the place where I work!
0:39:48 > 0:39:51- I've worked here for six years.
0:39:51 > 0:39:58- We sometimes strike gold, sometimes - not. Mining's an uncertain business.
0:39:58 > 0:40:03- Oh, here's the guard... - I want to shake his hand.
0:40:03 > 0:40:05- There's obvious camaraderie here.
0:40:05 > 0:40:10- As with our miners, men supporting - each other happens naturally...
0:40:10 > 0:40:13- ..when facing danger - in their everyday job.
0:40:13 > 0:40:17- But this is their only support.
0:40:17 > 0:40:21- There are no benefits - when accidents happen...
0:40:21 > 0:40:23- ..and they happen regularly.
0:40:23 > 0:40:28- La Rinconada health centre - has to deal with every emergency.
0:40:29 > 0:40:31- Muchas gracias.
0:40:31 > 0:40:34- I'm meeting the lead doctor.
0:40:35 > 0:40:41- Here, a doctor has to specialize - in every discipline...
0:40:41 > 0:40:47- ..gynaecology, paediatrics, - internal medicine.
0:40:47 > 0:40:53- We can't perform full operations - - but we assess every patient.
0:40:53 > 0:40:55- But it's accidents in the mines...
0:40:56 > 0:40:59- ..that put the biggest strain - on the clinic's resources.
0:40:59 > 0:41:03- Mining is extremely dangerous - in every Andean country.
0:41:03 > 0:41:06- Peru has the worst record.
0:41:06 > 0:41:14- Sometimes, the workers - go to places they shouldn't.
0:41:15 > 0:41:20- The gas suffocates them. - They can't breathe.
0:41:22 > 0:41:29- We treat fractures often, - as well as similar injuries.
0:41:29 > 0:41:36- If the explosives - haven't been correctly ignited...
0:41:36 > 0:41:44- ..the men get burnt, or they - fracture their legs and arms.
0:41:49 > 0:41:57- In the seven years I've been here, - 350 workers have been killed...
0:41:57 > 0:42:03- ..three or four a month.
0:42:11 > 0:42:16- Even outside work, no-one can wander - the streets feeling completely safe.
0:42:17 > 0:42:22- This is exactly how I imagine the - towns of the Wild West used to be.
0:42:22 > 0:42:26- There's no planning - and no obvious rule of law.
0:42:27 > 0:42:30- There must be some kind of order - but I can't see it.
0:42:30 > 0:42:32- It's also dangerous.
0:42:33 > 0:42:38- Fortunato is ready to show us - how dangerous...
0:42:38 > 0:42:41- ..but only if we film covertly.
0:42:42 > 0:42:46- With a small handheld camera, - we follow him to the back streets...
0:42:46 > 0:42:51- ..where the workers purify the ore - they've carried from the mountain.
0:42:52 > 0:42:54- An uneasy atmosphere, - a hint of violence...
0:42:55 > 0:42:59- ..and no welcome at all for a film - crew wanting to show the goings-on.
0:43:00 > 0:43:04- The quartz is crushed and mixed - with the poisonous mercury...
0:43:04 > 0:43:07- ..which sticks - to the gold particles.
0:43:07 > 0:43:12- The danger to health is obvious, - but this is the cheapest way...
0:43:13 > 0:43:16- ..for miners - to get their hands on the gold.
0:43:17 > 0:43:21- After they've boiled the - mercury away, this is what's left...
0:43:25 > 0:43:27- ..18 grams of the best gold.
0:43:27 > 0:43:31- It has a street value - of around 800 dollars.
0:43:32 > 0:43:35- Cash in hand, no questions asked.
0:43:39 > 0:43:43- However, the streets - certainly aren't paved in gold.
0:43:43 > 0:43:46- There are people here - who are even more desperate.
0:43:46 > 0:43:49- On their knees - in the mountain spoils...
0:43:49 > 0:43:54- ..these are the pallaqueras - - the poor who scratch for gold.
0:43:55 > 0:44:01- Sometimes, I get a bucket or two - of ore in a week.
0:44:01 > 0:44:03- Sometimes - nothing.
0:44:06 > 0:44:11- The majority are women - who are at the end of their tether.
0:44:13 > 0:44:15- Every single one has her story.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18- Abject poverty - and their wretched attempts...
0:44:18 > 0:44:22- ..at sustaining the family - they've left behind to come here.
0:44:26 > 0:44:28- I have a husband - and four children...
0:44:28 > 0:44:35- ..aged 17, 15, 9 and 8.
0:44:37 > 0:44:39- They're at home in Ayaviri.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46- So much pain, sadness and poverty.
0:44:48 > 0:44:51- Mountain gold - is the medicine for every wound.
0:44:53 > 0:44:57- One small piece - can transform entire lives.
0:45:01 > 0:45:03- As they wait to strike gold...
0:45:04 > 0:45:08- ..keeping a shine on their lives - is the aim of most of the locals.
0:45:09 > 0:45:12- Even when the danger - and the suffering is crushing...
0:45:13 > 0:45:15- ..the human soul wants more.
0:45:17 > 0:45:20- Compassion, kindness and fraternity.
0:45:21 > 0:45:25- These are thriving here - despite the greed and the chaos.
0:45:27 > 0:45:30- As the snow fell - at the end of the service...
0:45:30 > 0:45:35- ..something very special - happened here in the "ice hell".
0:45:35 > 0:45:39- Away from the violence, - robbery and fighting...
0:45:39 > 0:45:43- ..I feel I've seen - another side to La Rinconada.
0:45:44 > 0:45:47- A simple enough act - touched my heart.
0:45:47 > 0:45:50- Father Martin climbed the steps...
0:45:50 > 0:45:53- ..to bless the roof - of a brand-new building.
0:45:53 > 0:45:55- A hall for the ordinary man.
0:45:56 > 0:46:00- En el nombre del padre, del hijo - y del espiritu santo. Amen.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05- A sure sign - of the presence of community spirit.
0:46:05 > 0:46:09- Proof there's more to life - in the Andes than scraping for gold.
0:46:10 > 0:46:18- I said in my sermon that Jesus asks - us to carry the cross every day...
0:46:18 > 0:46:25- ..through the good days - and the ones where we have nothing.
0:46:31 > 0:46:32- The Andes.
0:46:32 > 0:46:36- Mountains which have moulded the - long history of an entire continent.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42- This is where the Incas learned - the secrets of highland farming...
0:46:43 > 0:46:44- ..many centuries ago.
0:46:45 > 0:46:49- To this very day, - the Andes have attracted people...
0:46:49 > 0:46:52- ..with enchanting tales - about gold treasure.
0:46:52 > 0:46:56- As I watch the dawn - for the last time on my journey...
0:46:56 > 0:46:59- ..what will stay in my memory...
0:46:59 > 0:47:03- ..is the ingenuity and perseverance - of the people I've met.
0:47:05 > 0:47:08- Despite - the challenging conditions...
0:47:08 > 0:47:12- ..the lack of oxygen - and the ever-present dangers...
0:47:12 > 0:47:15- ..they've managed - to make a living...
0:47:15 > 0:47:20- ..in some of the most beautiful and - inspirational places in the world.
0:47:20 > 0:47:25- It's not easy, it's not always - pretty, but I've been amazed...
0:47:25 > 0:47:29- ..by how they've managed - to use and work with nature...
0:47:29 > 0:47:33- ..to create a place for themselves - in the splendour of the Andes.
0:48:07 > 0:48:09- S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.
0:48:10 > 0:48:10- .