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0:00:03 > 0:00:07- I'm on a journey - to six areas in England.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11- These areas are renowned for - their beauty and incredible scenery.
0:00:12 > 0:00:19- These locations attract millions - of tourists to enjoy the landscapes.
0:00:19 > 0:00:26- There's some excellent wildlife - that you will rarely see in Wales.
0:00:26 > 0:00:32- That's the main reason for visiting - these remarkable locations.
0:00:48 > 0:00:52- This week, I'm visiting an area - I know very little about.
0:00:52 > 0:00:56- I'm on West Sussex's - 'Twyni Deheuol' (South Downs)...
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- ..and I'm following - the South Downs Way.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07- The South Downs Way stretches - 100 miles from Winchester...
0:01:07 > 0:01:12- ..to the famous white cliffs - of southern England in Beachy Head.
0:01:13 > 0:01:16- It's an area - I've rarely visited before.
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- A lot of the wildlife - will be new to me.
0:01:22 > 0:01:24- The South Downs are a range - of rounded chalk hills.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29- They stand above the levels - and lowlands of south-east England.
0:01:34 > 0:01:40- I start my journey on Harting Downs - north of Portsmouth and Chichester.
0:01:40 > 0:01:44- It's one of Britain's - most ancient chalk downs.
0:01:51 > 0:01:54- Very little of Harting Downs - has been intensively farmed.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59- It's an important - and beautiful habitat.
0:01:59 > 0:02:04- During July, the downs are covered - in grass, wild flowers...
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- ..and butterflies.
0:02:07 > 0:02:09- It's an excellent habitat.
0:02:10 > 0:02:16- As I look around me, I see nothing - apart from fields and woods.
0:02:16 > 0:02:18- That's a surprise.
0:02:19 > 0:02:22- I'm surrounded - by large towns and cities...
0:02:22 > 0:02:27- ..such as Bournemouth, Southampton - Portsmouth, Reading and Swindon.
0:02:27 > 0:02:29- London's not so far away.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33- I didn't expect - such a rural setting here.
0:02:35 > 0:02:39- There are some wonderful views - from the top of the downs.
0:02:39 > 0:02:43- The lowlands below are just as rich - and rural in terms of wildlife.
0:02:44 > 0:02:48- On the lowlands, - seven miles from Harting Downs...
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- ..there's common land in Ambersham.
0:02:52 > 0:02:57- It's special moorland and a habitat - I hadn't expected to see.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03- It's a great place for a naturalist.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08- This is a male stonechat - with a grasshopper in its beak.
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- There are plenty of those here - and plenty of food for its chicks.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- Its nest is somewhere in the bushes.
0:03:23 > 0:03:27- Most of the birds - nest on land like this.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33- There's a little bird here.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- I've been trying to catch up with it - for a while.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39- It's a Dartford warbler.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- It's a rare bird, - very rarely seen in Wales.
0:03:43 > 0:03:48- On moorland such as this, - you can see it nesting.
0:03:48 > 0:03:52- The main problem is trying to - spot it in the heather.
0:03:52 > 0:03:56- It goes down, - hides away and pops back up.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00- You think you're going to have - a good look and it disappears again.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- In Wales, - you'll only find a handful of pairs.
0:04:05 > 0:04:10- In an area like this, you'll find - half a dozen pairs in a small space.
0:04:12 > 0:04:14- It's a rather strange bird.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17- Its long tail points upwards.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19- It's not difficult to recognise...
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- ..but it's very busy and wary - during its nesting season.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- The South Downs are very close - to the sea and Channel.
0:04:49 > 0:04:52- In the distance, we can see - Chichester and its cathedral.
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- I'm dropping down the south side - of the downs...
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- ..to see one of Europe's - most unusual and rarest forests.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- A yew forest.
0:05:10 > 0:05:15- This is the first time - I've walked into a yew forest.
0:05:16 > 0:05:20- I've seen yew trees but - I've never been in a yew forest.
0:05:20 > 0:05:25- They say the oldest trees here - are 2,500 years old.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28- That's 500 years - before the age of Christ.
0:05:28 > 0:05:30- Incredible.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- I can see why our forefathers, - the pagans...
0:05:34 > 0:05:37- ..believed that these yew trees - were special.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- There's an unique atmosphere here.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- It's incredible that this forest - has survived.
0:05:44 > 0:05:49- During the Middle Ages, yew trees - were used to make bows and arrows.
0:05:49 > 0:05:54- There was such a high demand - for bows during this time...
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- ..most yew trees disappeared.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- This is one of the few - that still exists.
0:06:05 > 0:06:10- This is one of the oldest trees - in the forest.
0:06:10 > 0:06:15- These branches have grown outwards, - it's huge...
0:06:15 > 0:06:19- ..and they're so heavy, - they've bent down to the ground.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22- You can see them here.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Once they've done that, - they've taken root.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29- A new tree has started to grow.
0:06:29 > 0:06:35- Eventually, these branches - will rot and disintegrate.
0:06:35 > 0:06:39- This one will lose contact - with the mother tree.
0:06:48 > 0:06:53- The copse and the ancient meadow - resemble preserved history.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- There's also - some great wildlife here.
0:06:58 > 0:07:02- A badger has come out - before nightfall.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- It's early since it knows - it will be left alone.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- This is a special way - to end the day.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18- I'm sitting here, - the sun is setting behind the hill.
0:07:19 > 0:07:22- I'm listening to the sounds - of the summer.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25- I can here woodpigeons - and see bees everywhere.
0:07:25 > 0:07:31- One badger has ventured out - from the undergrowth.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- It's feeding. It's the perfect - conclusion to the day.
0:07:38 > 0:07:40- This is the sow.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43- She often comes out first - at this time of year.
0:07:44 > 0:07:48- It's July and her young have grown.
0:07:48 > 0:07:52- As it gets darker, - they will emerge with their father.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- This one is evidently hungry.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20- I've reached Bignor Hill, - halfway along the South Downs Way.
0:08:23 > 0:08:26- It's 50 miles to the end - of the path in Beachy Head.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- From here, I'm looking north.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- The hills in the distance - are the North Downs.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- We tend to think of 'twyni' - as sand dunes...
0:08:48 > 0:08:52- ..but these downs - are raised mounds or rounded hills.
0:08:53 > 0:08:56- The North Downs - and the South Downs.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17- The South Downs are part - of Britain's youngest national park.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21- The park was established in 2011.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26- The South Downs Way - crosses fertile agricultural land...
0:09:26 > 0:09:29- ..which is at its best - on a summer's day.
0:09:37 > 0:09:39- As you walk along the ridge...
0:09:39 > 0:09:42- ..you realise how close - you are to the sea.
0:09:42 > 0:09:46- It's about 10, 15 miles away.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51- I think I can see Bognor Regis - and Worthing in the distance.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- It's nice to see - the red poppies amongst the crops.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- They add some colour - to the landscape.
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- The poppy's seeds can live - in the land for a century.
0:10:04 > 0:10:09- When the land is ploughed and - the seeds rise to the surface...
0:10:09 > 0:10:11- ..they blossom and grow once more.
0:10:27 > 0:10:33- I'm veering off the South Downs Way - and heading north to the lowlands.
0:10:42 > 0:10:45- I've reached Pulborough Brooks - nature reserve.
0:10:45 > 0:10:49- This nature reserve is also part - of the South Downs National Park.
0:10:52 > 0:10:54- I'm here at dusk.
0:10:54 > 0:10:58- It's the perfect time - to spot wildlife.
0:11:13 > 0:11:17- This is a habitat you wouldn't - expect to see in this area.
0:11:17 > 0:11:21- I'm on an RSPB's nature reserve.
0:11:21 > 0:11:26- They've felled some of the trees - to open out the landscape.
0:11:26 > 0:11:31- There's a lot happening here even - though it's late on a summer's day.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- A kestrel is hunting - - it's sitting on a branch over there.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39- There are two or three - green woodpeckers in the vicinity.
0:11:39 > 0:11:44- I'm going to sit and wait for the - sun to set to see what else appears.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50- They keep cattle on the reserve - to control the vegetation.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- These like the taste of birch trees.
0:11:57 > 0:12:01- Animals that benefit from the work - done by the cattle and the RSPB...
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- ..are rabbits.
0:12:04 > 0:12:06- They like fresh growth.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- This one's keeping an eye - on its own territory right now.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15- It has a gland under its chin.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19- It rubs it to leave its mark - on the ground...
0:12:19 > 0:12:21- ..as if to say, "This is mine."
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0:12:43 > 0:12:43- Subtitles
0:12:43 > 0:12:45- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:55 > 0:12:59- I've moved to the lowlands - north of the South Downs.
0:12:59 > 0:13:01- I'm visiting a small nature reserve.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04- This is a very worthwhile journey.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10- This is Woods Mill nature reserve, - near Brighton.
0:13:11 > 0:13:13- I'm here at the crack of dawn.
0:13:13 > 0:13:17- More than anything, - I want to hear the song of a bird...
0:13:17 > 0:13:19- ..a bird I've not heard for years.
0:13:22 > 0:13:26- You might think I'm silly - visiting a small woods...
0:13:26 > 0:13:28- ..to listen to one bird...
0:13:28 > 0:13:30- ..especially a dove.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34- But this is a special dove.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- The turtle dove.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- This is a sound - that's disappeared from Wales.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- A turtle dove.
0:13:51 > 0:13:55- I remember travelling down to Gwent - as a young boy...
0:13:55 > 0:13:57- ..to listen to these birds.
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- There were around half a dozen pairs - there at the time...
0:14:01 > 0:14:03- ..about 25 years ago.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07- They disappeared completely - from Wales.
0:14:07 > 0:14:11- You'll only find them - in the south-east of England now.
0:14:11 > 0:14:13- Early in the morning...
0:14:13 > 0:14:17- ..you'll hear them - and see them perched on a branch.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- There's one in front of me...
0:14:19 > 0:14:21- ..and another one responding - from behind me.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- It's a great sound - - it's an unique sound.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32- You can't confuse it - with anything else.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34- It's like a cat purring.
0:14:36 > 0:14:37- It's a very rare bird.
0:14:37 > 0:14:41- You'll only find them - in the south of England today...
0:14:41 > 0:14:43- ..because of food shortages.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49- They need seeds and grain - when they're nesting.
0:14:49 > 0:14:51- This is one of the few areas - in Britain...
0:14:52 > 0:14:56- ..where corn is grown side-by-side - with good nesting locations.
0:15:20 > 0:15:24- I'm back on the South Downs Way.
0:15:24 > 0:15:27- This is one of the best views - on my journey.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32- Devil's Dyke, - just north of Brighton.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- This is the northern side.
0:15:38 > 0:15:43- I can see the Wealds, the lowlands - that stretch all the way to London.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- Devil's Dyke is in a valley - on the south side.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54- It's a dry valley without a river.
0:15:54 > 0:15:59- It was carved out of limestone - during the ice age.
0:16:00 > 0:16:04- It's a great example - of human influence on the land.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09- One side of the valley is pasture - without wild plants...
0:16:11 > 0:16:16- ..while the other is a habitat - for wild flowers and insects.
0:16:23 > 0:16:28- There's thick growth in July. - It's a great place to hide.
0:16:35 > 0:16:42- Once again, the wealth of plants - and flowers is striking.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45- They've grown on a bed of limestone.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48- I've seen one or two rabbits.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51- They play an important part - in this habitat.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54- Normally, this land - would be covered in trees.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- If a young tree starts to grow...
0:16:58 > 0:17:00- ..the rabbits eat it.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06- The slope faces south - and the warmth of the sun.
0:17:07 > 0:17:09- That helps attract butterflies.
0:17:11 > 0:17:15- July is a period of reproduction - for many of them...
0:17:15 > 0:17:18- ..including the small heath.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- This butterfly is common - throughout Britain.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29- These two are mating.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- The male transfers his seed - to the female.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54- I've reached Ditchling Beacon.
0:17:56 > 0:18:00- The South Downs Way is used - by both cyclists and walkers.
0:18:03 > 0:18:08- One of them is Iestyn George - who lives locally.
0:18:08 > 0:18:14- It's a bit of a shock to meet - a Welshman on the South Downs Way.
0:18:14 > 0:18:18- Things like this never happen - in TV programmes!
0:18:18 > 0:18:19- No, never.
0:18:20 > 0:18:22- What brought you here - in the first place?
0:18:23 > 0:18:26- I live close to the centre - of Brighton.
0:18:26 > 0:18:32- It's less than five miles from here, - from my front door.
0:18:32 > 0:18:37- It's the closest place - to which I can escape.
0:18:38 > 0:18:42- We can cycle for 50 miles - if we choose.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46- It's something - that helps keep me healthy.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- The weather changes all the time - - that's fantastic.
0:18:50 > 0:18:53- From day to day, - it's always different.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56- The nature is different every day.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59- You'll see sheep everywhere - one day...
0:18:59 > 0:19:02- ..and no sheep at all - the following day.
0:19:02 > 0:19:04- It changes all the time.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- Since we're down - in south-east England...
0:19:08 > 0:19:12- ..I was expecting to see - towns and villages everywhere...
0:19:12 > 0:19:17- ..with roads crossing the - countryside, but it's very rural.
0:19:17 > 0:19:22- Brighton would definitely be - three to four times larger...
0:19:22 > 0:19:24- ..if the downs weren't there.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- In a way, it preserves nature.
0:19:28 > 0:19:31- It's a layer that stretches - for 100 miles...
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- ..and prevents - any further construction.
0:19:35 > 0:19:40- It's great because there are too - many houses and people in the south.
0:19:40 > 0:19:45- When you come here, - it's so peaceful.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47- It's fantastic.
0:20:08 > 0:20:10- I agree with Iestyn.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- The entire South Downs Way - is peaceful.
0:20:14 > 0:20:16- Having said that...
0:20:16 > 0:20:21- ..evidence shows that parts of the - downs once looked very different.
0:20:21 > 0:20:25- There are remains - of lime quarries in numerous places.
0:20:26 > 0:20:32- Lime was mined in the quarries - and used to regenerate barren land.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- This happened for many centuries.
0:20:38 > 0:20:42- Today, artificial fertilizer - is available.
0:20:42 > 0:20:47- Demand for lime has decreased and - the old mines are left to nature.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12- The South Downs Way - reaches the coast.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15- I'm almost at my journey's end...
0:21:15 > 0:21:18- ..but there's one creature - I've yet to see.
0:21:21 > 0:21:26- For many who pass it, this is - an insignificant butterfly...
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- ..but for me, - this is a jewel of the downs.
0:21:29 > 0:21:31- There are very few of them here.
0:21:34 > 0:21:36- When I was a young boy...
0:21:36 > 0:21:41- ..Mam said I spent half my life - crawling around like this.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- There's good reason this time.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45- This is a very rare butterfly.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- This is a chalkhill blue.
0:21:52 > 0:21:57- It's one of the butterflies - I wanted to see before I left.
0:21:58 > 0:22:04- These are rare and are most often - found in limestone regions.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07- There are two together now.
0:22:07 > 0:22:10- This is the first time - I've ever seen one.
0:22:10 > 0:22:12- They're so pretty.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- This butterfly can only be found - in south-east England.
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- It's survived because - the limestone grassland it needs...
0:22:23 > 0:22:25- ..has been preserved.
0:22:31 > 0:22:33- I've seen many excellent habitats...
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- ..on my journey - along the South Downs Way.
0:22:37 > 0:22:41- It was rather unexpected in one - of Britain's most populated areas.
0:22:51 > 0:22:58- I complete my journey in Beachy Head - with the lighthouse behind me.
0:22:58 > 0:23:03- My journey ends where the land ends - and England ends.
0:23:03 > 0:23:06- France lies across the Channel.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09- This is the first time - I've visited this area.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12- I've enjoyed - every step of the journey.
0:23:12 > 0:23:16- The landscapes, - the wildlife, everything.
0:23:16 > 0:23:19- It's taken almost half a century - for me to get here.
0:23:20 > 0:23:22- I won't wait so long next time.
0:23:43 > 0:23:45- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:45 > 0:23:45- .