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0:00:10 > 0:00:13- I've been birdwatching - and observing wildlife all my life.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- But pressures on nature - due to man's intervention...
0:00:20 > 0:00:24- ..have seen some species decline - or disappear altogether in Wales...
0:00:25 > 0:00:27- ..over the past half a century.
0:00:27 > 0:00:31- I'm travelling to England, to - locations teeming with wildlife...
0:00:32 > 0:00:35- ..to rediscover species - no longer found at home.
0:00:52 > 0:00:53- Bolton Priory...
0:00:54 > 0:00:56- ..is the building behind me...
0:00:56 > 0:01:00- ..which dates back - almost eight centuries.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04- I'm only a few miles outside - the town of Skipton in Yorkshire.
0:01:04 > 0:01:07- I'm right on - the southern boundary...
0:01:08 > 0:01:11- ..of the Yorkshire Dales - National Park.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21- The Yorkshire Dales National Park - in the north of England...
0:01:21 > 0:01:25- ..extends from Settle and Skipton - to Sedbergh and Richmond.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- It's predominantly an upland area.
0:01:29 > 0:01:31- It's part of the Pennines...
0:01:31 > 0:01:34- ..a vast mountain range - in the north of England.
0:01:35 > 0:01:40- It's a deserted landscape - with many exposed areas.
0:01:40 > 0:01:46- Between the hills are scenic valleys - such as Wensleydale and Wharfedale.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- I've come here at the end of July, - during a wet summer...
0:01:53 > 0:01:56- ..when the rivers are swollen.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00- This is the River Wharfe, - one of the largest...
0:02:01 > 0:02:03- ..and most famous in the area.
0:02:03 > 0:02:08- Further upriver, it's relatively - wide, as it is downriver...
0:02:09 > 0:02:13- ..but in this section, it - has to pass through a narrow area.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17- You could swear that this river - follows a geological fault.
0:02:17 > 0:02:21- But in actual fact, - over millions of years...
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- ..the water - has carried stones downriver...
0:02:25 > 0:02:28- ..and they have - gradually dredged the riverbed.
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- Nowadays, - some of the pools further down...
0:02:32 > 0:02:35- ..are more than 30 feet deep...
0:02:35 > 0:02:37- ..which is almost 10 metres.
0:02:37 > 0:02:39- It's a very dangerous place.
0:02:39 > 0:02:44- It's very slippery here and it's - easy to fall in. Many have drowned.
0:02:44 > 0:02:48- This section of the River Wharfe - is called The Strid.
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- Some foolish souls have tried - to jump across the narrower parts.
0:02:54 > 0:02:58- None of those - who have fallen in have survived.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- You're instantly dragged below...
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- ..into caves and tunnels - that are hidden underwater.
0:03:07 > 0:03:12- It's the end of July - and a tranquil time for wildlife.
0:03:12 > 0:03:16- Most birds have finished nesting - at the end of spring...
0:03:16 > 0:03:19- ..but a few - interesting things are happening.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- These are common ducks - that you see everywhere.
0:03:23 > 0:03:27- They're eating an abundance of - insects which fly above the water.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30- They learn this from their mother.
0:03:33 > 0:03:36- In the next pool is a goosander.
0:03:38 > 0:03:40- The female has a brown head.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45- Rarely do you see males - at this time of year.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- They've long migrated - to Scandinavia in spring...
0:03:49 > 0:03:54- ..leaving the females - to look after the chicks themselves.
0:04:01 > 0:04:06- Like the Beacons and Snowdonia, - the dales are perfect for walkers.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10- Eight million tourists - visit the area every year.
0:04:12 > 0:04:16- The main attraction in Malham - is the limestone.
0:04:16 > 0:04:18- The best in Britain.
0:04:20 > 0:04:24- You can't come to the Yorkshire - Dales without visiting Malham Cove.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28- This is - the most famous place in the Dales.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- And you can see why.
0:04:31 > 0:04:33- It's so picturesque.
0:04:33 > 0:04:35- It's an amphitheatre of stone.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38- It attracts - thousands of visitors annually.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41- It has inspired poets.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- William Wordsworth came here...
0:04:44 > 0:04:47- ..as well as a number of artists, - one of whom was Turner.
0:04:47 > 0:04:51- They even filmed - a section of Harry Potter here.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53- But I prefer its history.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57- At the end of the Ice Age, - as the glaciers thawed...
0:04:58 > 0:05:02- ..a large river flowed down here - and this was one giant waterfall.
0:05:03 > 0:05:05- You can see where it was, - right in the middle.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- You can imagine - the water gushing down here.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12- As the ice melted, - the river disappeared...
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- ..leaving - this well-known site behind.
0:05:16 > 0:05:18- Crikey, it's handsome!
0:05:18 > 0:05:23- Most of the Dales' uplands - lie on limestone.
0:05:23 > 0:05:27- This white stone is the - landscape's most notable feature.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30- Close to Malham Cove is a lake...
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- ..that's unique - because of the stone's nature.
0:05:40 > 0:05:43- Here's something - you don't get in Wales' uplands.
0:05:43 > 0:05:46- Very smooth water, alkaline water.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- If you consider - the lakes of Wales' uplands...
0:05:50 > 0:05:53- ..the water is acidic, - sour and contains peat.
0:05:54 > 0:05:56- But this water isn't.
0:05:56 > 0:05:58- This is Malham Tarn...
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- ..the highest natural lake - in England.
0:06:01 > 0:06:05- We're 344 metres - above sea level here...
0:06:05 > 0:06:08- ..which is 1,200 feet.
0:06:08 > 0:06:11- This is - both a rare and unique habitat.
0:06:12 > 0:06:16- There are only eight of these lakes - in the whole of Europe.
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- It's a great place for wildlife, - if you come early in the morning.
0:06:20 > 0:06:23- I'm coming back - first thing tomorrow...
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- ..because there's a bird observatory - over there in the woods.
0:06:27 > 0:06:29- We'll see what we find.
0:06:44 > 0:06:48- It's lovely sitting here quietly - and seeing what's around.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51- There are many wild ducks - - dozens of them.
0:06:52 > 0:06:54- There's also a roe deer...
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- ..venturing - right to the water's edge.
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- She has no idea I'm nearby - because I'm in an observatory.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11- She looks beautiful.
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- She's in optimum health.
0:07:14 > 0:07:19- She's reddish brown in colour, - whereas the young are greyish brown.
0:07:19 > 0:07:23- It's a wonderful camouflage - when she has to leave her young.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28- When they're sitting quietly, - it's almost impossible to spot them.
0:07:46 > 0:07:50- I've just seen something - completely unexpected.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53- I've come from Malham Tarn - and come across a family...
0:07:54 > 0:07:56- ..of yellow wagtails.
0:07:56 > 0:07:58- The grey wagtail - is common in Wales...
0:07:59 > 0:08:02- ..but this is a very rare bird.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- This is the first time - I've seen one in the uplands.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10- I associate them - with the lowlands, near rivers...
0:08:10 > 0:08:12- ..where there's grazing pasture.
0:08:12 > 0:08:17- We're more than 1,000 feet - above sea level here.
0:08:17 > 0:08:21- But looking around me, - everything the bird needs is here.
0:08:21 > 0:08:26- There's a wet meadow over there, - where cattle graze.
0:08:26 > 0:08:29- Behind the wall is a hay meadow...
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- ..which is full of insects, - and that's what they eat.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36- The adults - sometimes sit on the wire.
0:08:36 > 0:08:41- They're very pretty. - They're a vibrant lemon colour.
0:08:41 > 0:08:45- The young are far less conspicuous.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54- I've reached Arncliffe...
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- ..where the fictitious - village of Beckindale was set...
0:08:59 > 0:09:02- ..in the original - Emmerdale Farm television series.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04- A Welshman lives in this village.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- Rhisiart Paul - is originally from Penrhyndeudraeth.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14- Good grief, I must say, you live - in a very smart area, don't you?
0:09:14 > 0:09:19- We're very lucky. - We've lived here for 25 years.
0:09:19 > 0:09:24- You're a farmer by vocation and this - is what you'd expect in the Dales.
0:09:24 > 0:09:26- Fields, uplands...
0:09:26 > 0:09:28- ..and dry stone walls everywhere.
0:09:29 > 0:09:34- We're about 20 miles from Skipton - in a valley called Wharfedale.
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- There are fields at the bottom - of the valley, as it were...
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- ..and we're - 750 feet above sea level.
0:09:42 > 0:09:47- The fields at the top are grazing - meadows that we use in summer.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51- They're around - 1,200 feet above sea level.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- I'm not familiar with this area.
0:09:54 > 0:09:57- I've only been - a couple of times before.
0:09:57 > 0:09:59- Are the places I must go and see?
0:10:00 > 0:10:04- It's a very unique place - in terms of its limestone.
0:10:04 > 0:10:07- There are - what's known as limestone pavements.
0:10:07 > 0:10:12- We're sitting on a hillside, - not far from Malham Cove.
0:10:13 > 0:10:18- At the top of this dale is one of - the three peaks, as they're called.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22- I'm talking about Pen-y-Ghent, - which is worth visiting.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- This is Pen-y-Ghent...
0:10:34 > 0:10:38- ..just short of 700 metres, - and the smallest of three peaks...
0:10:39 > 0:10:42- ..which make up the Three Peaks - Yorkshire Dales challenge.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- These are the limestone pavements - Rhisiart referred to.
0:10:46 > 0:10:52- The Ice Age's glaciers have scarred - the landscape and limestone...
0:10:52 > 0:10:56- ..leaving flat slabs like pavements - on the surface.
0:10:56 > 0:11:01- This is a very rare habitat - in Wales, unlike here.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04- Here's an interesting fact for you.
0:11:04 > 0:11:07- There are 2,500 hectares - of limestone pavement...
0:11:07 > 0:11:12- ..in the whole of England, and half - of that is in the Yorkshire Dales.
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- Do you know what I like most - about places likes this?
0:11:22 > 0:11:26- The flower display in summer. - Just look at all these colours.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30- This is High Brae nature reserve...
0:11:30 > 0:11:34- ..and the warden - works closely with the farmer...
0:11:34 > 0:11:38- ..who puts cattle on the land - throughout the year...
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- ..though there are few animals here.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- They graze on the long grass...
0:11:45 > 0:11:47- ..which promotes flower growth.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- The purple flower is wild thyme.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- The small white flower is eyebright.
0:11:53 > 0:11:57- My particular favourite is this - - the common rock rose.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01- It's very uncommon in Wales, - whereas here...
0:12:02 > 0:12:04- ..it carpets the entire area.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- Since the plants - have a chance to grow...
0:12:09 > 0:12:12- ..insects are attracted here - to feed on the nectar.
0:12:13 > 0:12:17- As a result, birds are drawn here - to eat the insects.
0:12:18 > 0:12:22- This is a male skylark - with a prominent crest on his head.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26- He's busy hunting food - for his chicks...
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- ..that are hidden - in a nest on the ground.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- This will be the last - of two or three broods...
0:12:33 > 0:12:36- ..that were conceived - way back in April.
0:12:36 > 0:12:41- Rearing a family is a long-term - commitment for the skylark.
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0:12:42 > 0:12:42- Subtitles
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0:13:11 > 0:13:15- There's nothing quite like - a steam train. What a view!
0:13:15 > 0:13:20- It's not only a steam train, - it crosses the famous viaduct...
0:13:21 > 0:13:23- ..between Carlisle and Settle.
0:13:23 > 0:13:25- It's had to climb all the way.
0:13:26 > 0:13:28- This is the highest part.
0:13:28 > 0:13:32- It's about to pass - the highest mountain in this part...
0:13:32 > 0:13:34- ..which is Whernside.
0:13:34 > 0:13:39- Unfortunately, it's hidden by the - clouds today. I love steam trains!
0:13:40 > 0:13:44- If you should ever - go and see the Ribblehead train...
0:13:44 > 0:13:47- ..a remarkable area - of the uplands...
0:13:47 > 0:13:50- ..is a stone's throw - away from the viaduct.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53- There is - limestone pavement once again.
0:13:53 > 0:13:58- But this is the best limestone in - the Yorkshire Dales National Park.
0:14:02 > 0:14:06- Everywhere I've walked - in the dales...
0:14:07 > 0:14:11- ..has been quite barren - with scarcely any trees.
0:14:11 > 0:14:13- But this place, Scar Close...
0:14:13 > 0:14:16- ..is very different - as it's a nature reserve.
0:14:16 > 0:14:20- No animals - have grazed here for decades...
0:14:20 > 0:14:22- ..apart from the odd rabbit.
0:14:22 > 0:14:25- There have been - no sheep or cattle here.
0:14:25 > 0:14:27- Notice the trees.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- It's a very primitive setting.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32- When you think about it...
0:14:33 > 0:14:37- ..it would've looked like this - 5,000 years ago...
0:14:37 > 0:14:39- ..during the Stone Age.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42- The uplands - would've been dense with trees.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46- I can imagine people - in those early days...
0:14:46 > 0:14:51- ..looking up at Ingleborough, - that enormous mountain behind me.
0:14:51 > 0:14:55- They would've seen more or less - the same as I'm seeing today.
0:14:59 > 0:15:02- Since limestone - gradually melts in water...
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- ..pavements split over time, - leaving hollows.
0:15:06 > 0:15:11- In turn, they fill with earth - and plants grow.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15- As the earth isn't deep enough - for the trees' roots...
0:15:15 > 0:15:19- ..they remain a miniature version - of large trees.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- During the month of July...
0:15:23 > 0:15:26- ..butterflies feed on the plants.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- Because - there are so many flowers here...
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- ..especially - in the sheltered areas...
0:15:41 > 0:15:46- ..many butterflies are attracted, - especially when it's sunny.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49- It's a little cold now, - unfortunately.
0:15:49 > 0:15:53- But I've seen - the common blue on a few flowers.
0:15:53 > 0:15:59- I've also seen the northern brown - argus, which I've never seen before.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02- It can be found - further north in Britain...
0:16:02 > 0:16:06- ..but no further south - than this area.
0:16:06 > 0:16:08- The prettiest of them all...
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- ..is this one, - which has landed on my hand...
0:16:12 > 0:16:14- ..in order to keep warm.
0:16:14 > 0:16:16- The dark green fritillary.
0:16:17 > 0:16:21- When you see her up close like this - and notice her markings...
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- ..you realise - how pretty this butterfly is.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28- You must be wondering - why an orange butterfly...
0:16:28 > 0:16:31- ..is called a dark green fritillary.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- That's the odd thing - about names for nature.
0:16:34 > 0:16:39- There are many orange butterflies, - and somewhere under her wing...
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- ..are green parts, - which give her her name.
0:16:50 > 0:16:55- Apparently, there are 6,000 - traditional farm buildings...
0:16:55 > 0:16:59- ..in the Yorkshire Dales, - 4,000 of which are hay barns....
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- ..that have been built - in the middle of meadows.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08- I love - solid, old stone barns like this.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12- I used to play in them as a child - back home in Llanwddyn.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16- I'd stand on the bales - and look for owls' nests and so on.
0:17:16 > 0:17:19- These are - very typical of the Yorkshire Dales.
0:17:20 > 0:17:24- You see them everywhere, - but what's different about them...
0:17:24 > 0:17:28- ..is that they're in the middle of - the fields, not attached to farms.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- Years ago, when you'd cut the grass, - you didn't have to move it...
0:17:33 > 0:17:37- ..with a horse and cart - back to the farmhouse.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40- You brought it - into the barn on the field.
0:17:40 > 0:17:45- Then, in winter, when you needed - fodder for the sheep and cattle...
0:17:45 > 0:17:48- ..all you had to do - was pop into the barn...
0:17:48 > 0:17:51- ..pick up the hay - and take it out to them.
0:17:58 > 0:18:02- Many farmers in the Dales - capitalize on the help available...
0:18:02 > 0:18:07- ..from Natural England - to maintain the ancient meadows.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- In terms of preservation and beauty, - it pays handsomely.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14- Look at - all the different colour flowers.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17- What's nice about Wharfedale...
0:18:18 > 0:18:22- ..is that they still cut the grass - in the traditional way.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- Not just that, they store - the grass in the old hay barns too.
0:18:26 > 0:18:30- In terms of the figures...
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- ..98% of Britain's - hay meadows have disappeared.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38- That's certainly true in Wales - but not here in the Dales.
0:18:38 > 0:18:42- Look at these flowers. Betonies.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- Knapweed.
0:18:45 > 0:18:46- Meadowsweet.
0:18:47 > 0:18:53- Common spotted orchids everywhere, - attracting bees and butterflies.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56- I've seen - more traditional hay meadows...
0:18:56 > 0:18:59- ..in the Yorkshire Dales - in the past two days...
0:18:59 > 0:19:03- ..than I've seen in Wales - for many years.
0:19:11 > 0:19:16- I've reached Wensleydale in - the northern region of the Dales.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19- I'm here to meet Claire Moore...
0:19:20 > 0:19:23- ..who's originally - from Blaenau Ffestiniog...
0:19:23 > 0:19:28- ..but who currently lives in - Simonstone within the National Park.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32- I have to say, Claire, - this stream is in a lovely setting.
0:19:33 > 0:19:34- Do you come here often?
0:19:34 > 0:19:37- Do you come here often?- - Yes, I come here almost every day...
0:19:37 > 0:19:40- ..with the dog - and the girls swim in the pool...
0:19:40 > 0:19:43- ..when the weather's warm enough.
0:19:43 > 0:19:46- It's a lovely place - for children to visit too.
0:19:46 > 0:19:52- Do you see a big difference between - Blaenau Ffestiniog and here...
0:19:52 > 0:19:53- ..or is it quite similar?
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- ..or is it quite similar?- - I'd say it's quite similar.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00- We don't get as much rain as we did - in Blaenau but it's quite similar.
0:20:01 > 0:20:03- I've lived in picturesque places...
0:20:03 > 0:20:07- ..and you tend to take them - for granted, don't you?
0:20:07 > 0:20:09- I walk here every day...
0:20:09 > 0:20:14- ..and I haven't noticed - the things you've noticed today.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17- It's lovely to be able - to bring your family and dog...
0:20:17 > 0:20:20- ..to somewhere like this nearby.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27- Wensleydale is - the longest valley in the Dales.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32- Before I end my journey, - I have one more location to visit...
0:20:32 > 0:20:37- ..in Aysgarth, a few miles - down the valley from Claire's home.
0:20:40 > 0:20:43- I've reached the Dales' waterfalls.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- This is the River Ure, - Wensleydale's main river.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- It's not often you get - to stand underneath a waterfall.
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- It's easy to see - how this was formed.
0:21:02 > 0:21:05- Where I'm standing, - this was all soft stone...
0:21:05 > 0:21:07- ..that was washed away by water.
0:21:08 > 0:21:12- Above my head is solid stone - that can withstand the water.
0:21:13 > 0:21:18- The water flows over this - and falls directly below.
0:21:18 > 0:21:20- This is nice over here.
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- This is called hartstongue...
0:21:24 > 0:21:27- ..which is a type of fern.
0:21:27 > 0:21:32- Behind that, - tucked away nice and dry...
0:21:32 > 0:21:36- ..is a ball of moss, - which is the dipper's nest.
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- The entrance is there. - It's a great place for a nest.
0:21:52 > 0:21:55- There's a series of waterfalls here.
0:21:55 > 0:21:59- There are three in all, - and this is the lowest of them.
0:22:00 > 0:22:02- In the rock under foot...
0:22:02 > 0:22:05- ..it's possible to see - how the limestone was formed.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07- This was once coral...
0:22:08 > 0:22:13- ..growing in a warm ocean - hundreds of millions of years ago.
0:22:13 > 0:22:16- Here in Aysgarth, - in the north of the Park...
0:22:16 > 0:22:20- ..is where I end my tour - of the Yorkshire Dales.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- Next time, I'm exploring Dorset - and the New Forest.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34- Two wonderful locations - on the south coast of England.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:04 > 0:23:05- .