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0:00:34 > 0:00:39- Some 20,000 years ago, - Wales was gripped by the Ice Age.
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- Apart from parts of south Pembroke - and the Vale of Glamorgan...
0:00:48 > 0:00:51- ..the whole of Wales - was covered in ice.
0:00:52 > 0:00:58- It's difficult to imagine it today, - even during the cold winter months.
0:01:03 > 0:01:08- Only the highest peaks of Wales - were visible 20,000 years ago.
0:01:13 > 0:01:15- The valleys were full of ice.
0:01:23 > 0:01:28- Fast forward to 11,500 years ago, - and the ice had melted.
0:01:32 > 0:01:36- The mountains, valleys - and coast of Wales...
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- ..had been formed - long before the Ice Age.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45- However, they were transformed - by the ice.
0:01:46 > 0:01:48- Wales had a new landscape.
0:01:53 > 0:01:58- During the ensuing 10,000 years, - a picture of Wales was created...
0:02:03 > 0:02:06- ..the picture - which is familiar to us today.
0:02:21 > 0:02:27- Creating a Picture
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- This is a part of Wales - with which we, as Welsh speakers...
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- ..are perhaps less familiar - than we should be.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- I'm standing on Stanner Rocks, - in east Radnorshire.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- The border runs along - the bottom of the valley.
0:03:05 > 0:03:07- That's the famous Hergest Ridge.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- You can see the shape of the hills - from this vantage point.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16- This is typical of mid Wales.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- In very simple geological terms...
0:03:20 > 0:03:24- ..the rocks are quite hard - where there are hills and mountains.
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- Where there are valleys, - the rocks are softer.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33- Stanner Rocks are actually formed...
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- ..from the oldest rocks - in the whole of Wales.
0:03:38 > 0:03:43- When these were formed, - Wales was close to the South Pole.
0:03:43 > 0:03:48- The land stood around the area - where South Africa now stands.
0:03:53 > 0:03:56- Stanner Rocks - is over 700 million years old.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- It was formed under the sea.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- Wales has been under water - many times...
0:04:10 > 0:04:13- ..over the course - of the past 700 million years.
0:04:16 > 0:04:20- The sea created the framework - of the land of Wales.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24- There is evidence - that the mid Wales uplands...
0:04:25 > 0:04:26- ..were levelled by the sea.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- The Lleyn Peninsula's - coastal flatland...
0:04:37 > 0:04:40- ..with Garn Fadryn above it...
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- ..Anglesey's agricultural land...
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..and the Pembrokeshire lowlands...
0:04:48 > 0:04:52- ..were all levelled by a sea - which flowed over the land...
0:04:52 > 0:04:55- ..during the past - five million years.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01- Ancient seas - created the plateaus of Wales.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08- Peaks like the Rivals - on the Lleyn Peninsula...
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- ..survived because they were formed - from hard rock.
0:05:11 > 0:05:13- They were harder to erode...
0:05:13 > 0:05:16- ..and the waves - had less of an impact on them.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22- These hills were once islands.
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- Other forces have affected - the landscape of Wales.
0:05:41 > 0:05:45- The mountains of Snowdonia - were pushed upwards...
0:05:45 > 0:05:50- ..as continental plates moved - and crashed into one another.
0:05:51 > 0:05:56- Prior to that, many of the rocks - were mud on the seabed.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- Some of the rocks - were created by volcanoes.
0:06:04 > 0:06:09- Gradually, over millions of years, - rocks rose to form mountains...
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- ..which were far higher - than the peaks we see today.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19- Then, over the course - of millions of years...
0:06:19 > 0:06:23- ..the weather, - sometimes extreme...
0:06:23 > 0:06:27- ..eroded the softer land - around the ancient mountains.
0:06:27 > 0:06:32- This left the rocky crags and the - glorious landscapes we see today.
0:06:35 > 0:06:40- Across the whole of Wales, - rugged crags dot the landscape.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43- They survived because they're hard.
0:06:46 > 0:06:51- Carn Menyn, Pembrokeshire, - known locally as Carn Meini.
0:06:54 > 0:06:56- It's a dramatic location.
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- Rocks reach skywards - like outstretched fingers.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08- These rocks - are over 400 million years old.
0:07:09 > 0:07:15- They are volcanic, and survived - because of their hard nature.
0:07:19 > 0:07:21- Like the rocks of Snowdonia...
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- ..they were split and shaped - by extreme weather conditions.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29- Some claim that stones - from Carn Menyn...
0:07:29 > 0:07:32- ..were transported by humans - to build Stonehenge.
0:07:33 > 0:07:38- Others believe the stones were - moved there by a stronger force...
0:07:40 > 0:07:44- ..huge glaciers which were here - around 20 million years ago.
0:07:49 > 0:07:55- The framework of Wales's landscape - was formed over millions of years...
0:07:56 > 0:07:58- ..long before the Ice Age...
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- ..but the glaciers - had a huge effect on the landscape.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- Penmaenpool bridge - on the River Mawddach.
0:08:11 > 0:08:15- A sight such as this - is rare in Wales these days.
0:08:17 > 0:08:19- The estuary is frozen.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29- It takes a hard winter - and a very cold period to do this.
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- When it does happen, - everything grinds to a halt.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44- The ice has a short period of time - in which to impact on the landscape.
0:08:45 > 0:08:49- In the current climate, - it will melt in a day or two.
0:08:52 > 0:08:55- It will last a little longer - in the uplands.
0:08:59 > 0:09:03- The Migneint, near Llan Ffestiniog, - in the depths of winter.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- It's been over 20 years since I - last saw a frozen Cynfal waterfall.
0:09:09 > 0:09:14- It's astonishing to see it - during a period of global warming...
0:09:14 > 0:09:19- ..but it gives an idea of the way - ice can transform the landscape.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24- Given enough time, - ice can split rock.
0:09:26 > 0:09:30- When it thaws, rock fragments - are carried down the valley.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- When ice remains in place - for thousands of years...
0:09:37 > 0:09:40- ..it can change the landscape - completely.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45- That's precisely what happened - during the Ice Age.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51- Llyn y Fan Fach, - in the Brecon Beacons.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54- This view was created by ice.
0:10:19 > 0:10:21- This is a wonderful valley.
0:10:21 > 0:10:23- Llyn y Fan Fach is over there.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28- I called it a valley, - but it's technically a cirque.
0:10:29 > 0:10:32- It's a spectacular example.
0:10:32 > 0:10:36- A cirque is a bowl-shaped valley - formed during the Ice Age.
0:10:37 > 0:10:42- The landscape is very revealing - once you learn to read the signs.
0:10:42 > 0:10:45- In this instance, - it's fairly obvious.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- These steep cliffs behind me - stretch for miles to the east.
0:10:50 > 0:10:55- They were created when the glacier - worked its way down.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01- Furthermore, I'm standing - on a moraine.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06- A moraine is made - of millions of tons of stones.
0:11:07 > 0:11:10- You can still see - some of the stones here...
0:11:10 > 0:11:14- ..but they're now covered - in soil and vegetation.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- This wall locked the lake in place.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24- The Ice Age left its mark - on almost every Welsh valley...
0:11:24 > 0:11:26- ..and on every Welsh hill.
0:11:28 > 0:11:31- Steep valleys shaped by glaciers.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38- Rocky mountainsides - and boulders deposited by glaciers.
0:11:40 > 0:11:45- But the effect of glaciers extends - far further than the mainland.
0:11:53 > 0:11:58- Cardigan Bay, around ten miles - off the coast of Harlech.
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- Saint Patrick's Causeway.
0:12:05 > 0:12:07- A shingle reef under the sea.
0:12:13 > 0:12:16- According to legend, - this was a pathway to Ireland.
0:12:19 > 0:12:24- Actually, it's formed from glacial - deposits left during the Ice Age.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48- Beneath the waves are huge rocks - deposited by glaciers.
0:12:50 > 0:12:55- Unlike on land, where rocks - are bare with no vegetation...
0:12:55 > 0:12:59- ..here, they are covered - in flora and fauna.
0:13:05 > 0:13:10- When we're on land, - we ask whether it's rocky...
0:13:12 > 0:13:17- ..is it forest or grassland, - upland or lowland?
0:13:18 > 0:13:20- The same applies - at the bottom of the sea.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- Are we on sandy or stony ground?
0:13:25 > 0:13:29- Is it deep or shallow? - How much light is there?
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- How much water - flows past this point?
0:13:33 > 0:13:38- That all has an impact - on the wildlife that lives here...
0:13:38 > 0:13:40- ..just as it has on land.
0:13:45 > 0:13:50- The wildlife found in the sea - around Wales...
0:13:50 > 0:13:54- ..lives on a landscape - deposited here during the Ice Age.
0:13:59 > 0:14:03- The sand and stones - were carried from the mountains.
0:14:03 > 0:14:08- The wildlife - which has developed here...
0:14:08 > 0:14:12- ..is affected by the currents - along the Welsh coast.
0:14:16 > 0:14:21- On the Menai Strait, huge boulders - are covered in creatures...
0:14:21 > 0:14:24- ..which can withstand strong tides.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32- The shingle bed - in the bay near Pwllheli...
0:14:33 > 0:14:36- ..is a result of ceaseless currents.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44- Near Dinas Dinlle, - where the sea is relatively calm...
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- ..there are underwater - seaweed fields.
0:14:55 > 0:14:59- Around Skomer Island, - there are forests of seaweed...
0:14:59 > 0:15:02- ..which have adapted - to strong currents.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- On the west coast of Anglesey...
0:15:12 > 0:15:17- ..shipwrecks create an additional - framework on which wildlife grows.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28- This rich wildlife - developed around Wales...
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- ..during the past 10,000 years.
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- There was no sea here previously.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39- We were in the middle - of the Ice Age...
0:15:39 > 0:15:43- ..and a huge sheet of ice - separated Wales and Ireland.
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0:16:00 > 0:16:02- Around 11,500 years ago...
0:16:04 > 0:16:06- ..the Ice Age came to an end.
0:16:09 > 0:16:14- 500 years later, the Welsh climate - was similar to the climate today.
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- Wet.
0:16:24 > 0:16:28- It took a further 3,000 years - before trees grew here.
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- Wildlife was also - re-establishing itself.
0:17:16 > 0:17:22- By 7,000 years ago, - Wales was covered in thick copses.
0:17:27 > 0:17:29- The oak was Wales's primary tree.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- While the trees grew, - water changed the landscape.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47- Streams and rivers shaped the rocks.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51- They continue to do so today.
0:17:52 > 0:17:57- This torrent flows over rocks on - the River Goedol, Llan Ffestiniog.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08- The impact of water - upon rocks of differing hardness...
0:18:09 > 0:18:13- ..gives us one of Wales's - most magnificent landscapes.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- This is the waterfall region - of the Brecon Beacons.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23- Hard rock meets soft rock, - beneath the surface.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- When this happens, - a waterfall is formed.
0:18:30 > 0:18:35- This is Sgwd Yr Eira, one of many - waterfalls on the River Hepste.
0:18:38 > 0:18:43- It's a striking sight, especially - when the river is in full flow.
0:18:50 > 0:18:56- It's the only waterfall in Wales - which you can walk behind.
0:19:02 > 0:19:07- The highest Welsh waterfall - is near Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- This is Pistyll Rhaeadr.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31- I think it's at its best when the - snow is melting on the mountain...
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- ..and the water cascades down.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41- It was formed - where hard rock met soft rock.
0:19:44 > 0:19:47- The water flows on hard rock, - up there...
0:19:47 > 0:19:50- ..and the arch, halfway down, - is also hard rock.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- The river has thrust itself - into every weak spot in the stone.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59- Can you see the natural arch?
0:20:00 > 0:20:04- It was formed by hard rock - lying above soft rock.
0:20:04 > 0:20:06- The water gushes out over there.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11- It's blown against the rock...
0:20:11 > 0:20:16- ..creating a perfect habitat - for plants such as mosses and ferns.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- The effect of water on rock is also - evident in the Brecon Beacons.
0:20:44 > 0:20:48- Parts of the Beacons are formed - from a special type of rock.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51- A rock which slowly dissolves - in water.
0:20:52 > 0:20:53- Limestone.
0:20:58 > 0:21:01- When limestone dissolves, - it forms caves.
0:21:14 > 0:21:15- This is Porth yr Ogof.
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- Looking at this vegetation, - you could think I was in Africa...
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- ..but I'm in Ystradfellte - in the Brecon Beacons.
0:21:24 > 0:21:26- It's a beautiful place.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- People have been coming here - to see it for centuries.
0:21:30 > 0:21:34- I marvel at the vegetation - and at the dipper's nest...
0:21:34 > 0:21:37- ..stuffed into the crevice here.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- This is the largest entrance - to any cave in Wales.
0:21:41 > 0:21:43- The River Mellte flows into it...
0:21:44 > 0:21:47- ..but we only see - a small fraction of the water.
0:21:47 > 0:21:52- The majority of the water - flows into the cave underground.
0:21:53 > 0:21:56- There are several caves - in the Beacons...
0:21:56 > 0:22:01- ..all of which were formed - when water dissolved limestone.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06- This is Ogof Ffynnon Ddu.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10- Beneath the surface, - rivers continuously erode the rock.
0:22:13 > 0:22:15- This creates tunnels.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20- There are caves all over Wales...
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- ..but you'll only find large caves - like Ffynnon Ddu in the Beacons.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- I expected this to be a quiet, - almost lazy place.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- We've had very little rain - for over a week...
0:22:36 > 0:22:39- ..but water flows continuously - in here.
0:22:39 > 0:22:42- It flows everywhere - in this very busy cave.
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- Mini waterfalls join the river - as it flows downwards.
0:22:47 > 0:22:51- The colours, forms and shapes - of the rock also change.
0:22:51 > 0:22:55- There's something different to see - around every corner.
0:23:00 > 0:23:04- The water creates the shape of - small whirlpools on the cave walls.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09- In places, - lime from the limestone reforms...
0:23:09 > 0:23:13- ..creating stalactites - and stalagmites.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20- It's an image of Wales - we rarely see...
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- ..but there are striking landscapes - beneath the surface.
0:23:30 > 0:23:33- Soon after - the Ice Age glaciers receded...
0:23:33 > 0:23:38- ..the Welsh climate was reasonable - enough to sustain human life again.
0:23:42 > 0:23:47- There followed a period which - lasted for around 3,000 years...
0:23:47 > 0:23:52- ..when man and wildlife in Wales - coexisted as one.
0:23:55 > 0:24:00- 5,000 years ago, nomadic - hunter gatherers were superseded...
0:24:01 > 0:24:05- ..by people who tended to settle - in their birthplace.
0:24:06 > 0:24:11- Stone Age and Bronze Age monoliths - can be seen in all parts of Wales.
0:24:11 > 0:24:15- One of our earliest structures - is in Pembrokeshire.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18- Since the Ice Age ended...
0:24:18 > 0:24:22- ..man has had the biggest impact - on the landscape.
0:24:22 > 0:24:28- From the early days, man used - materials that were found locally.
0:24:29 > 0:24:32- This is the famous - Pentre Ifan burial chamber.
0:24:32 > 0:24:37- Imagine the work which went into - lifting these huge stones.
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- Even by the time - this chamber was built...
0:24:41 > 0:24:46- ..they had already cleared much of - the trees which blanketed the land.
0:24:58 > 0:25:03- By the Iron Age, Wales's population - was between 100,000 and 200,000.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08- Around 600 hill forts - had been erected.
0:25:11 > 0:25:14- Considerable resources - were needed...
0:25:14 > 0:25:18- ..to sustain a large hill fort - like Tre'r Ceiri in Lleyn.
0:25:19 > 0:25:24- They needed trees for furniture - and to use as building material.
0:25:25 > 0:25:27- They needed pasture for animals.
0:25:28 > 0:25:33- They had to fell trees - and tame the land.
0:25:36 > 0:25:40- Over 5,000 years, - the landscape was transformed...
0:25:41 > 0:25:45- ..from untamed forests - to agricultural land.
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0:25:53 > 0:25:55- The Conwy Valley and Pen-y-gaer.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02- On the hill, - there's an Iron Age fort.
0:26:05 > 0:26:09- The foundation of the landscape - we see today...
0:26:09 > 0:26:14- ..was laid by the people who lived - in the fort around 2,000 years ago.
0:26:16 > 0:26:18- They ruled the valley...
0:26:18 > 0:26:22- ..and they and other people - under their rule farmed the land.
0:26:25 > 0:26:29- There were no fields with hedges, - as we know them today.
0:26:29 > 0:26:35- The land was probably wetter - and there were certainly more trees.
0:26:37 > 0:26:41- Towards the end of the era - of the Pen-y-gaer people...
0:26:41 > 0:26:43- ..the Romans came to Wales.
0:26:43 > 0:26:48- The Romans built their fort - at the bottom of the valley.
0:26:53 > 0:26:57- The land had been sufficiently tamed - to make it a safe location.
0:26:59 > 0:27:03- The walls of the fort - can be seen clearly from the air.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05- They surround Caerhun church...
0:27:05 > 0:27:08- ..and part of a wooded pasture.
0:27:09 > 0:27:13- The church only takes up - a small corner of the fort.
0:27:13 > 0:27:16- The old fort - was at least four times bigger.
0:27:19 > 0:27:22- The Romans came here - to quarry metal...
0:27:23 > 0:27:27- ..and to take any other - valuable resource, including wood.
0:27:31 > 0:27:33- They brought some plants - with them...
0:27:35 > 0:27:37- ..including chestnut trees.
0:27:46 > 0:27:50- Very few Roman remains - are visible today.
0:27:52 > 0:27:58- The Roman road Sarn Helen - in the Beacons is like a farm track.
0:28:08 > 0:28:13- Traces of more recent people are - far more prominent on the landscape.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17- Dryslwyn Castle in the Tywi Valley.
0:28:18 > 0:28:21- A castle built by the princes - of Deheubarth.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36- The thing I like - about the castles of Wales...
0:28:36 > 0:28:41- ..especially native castles, - is their location.
0:28:41 > 0:28:45- Take this area, for example. - The Tywi Valley.
0:28:45 > 0:28:49- The River Tywi is over there, - snaking its way down to the sea.
0:28:49 > 0:28:54- This is low-lying land - which the river floods regularly.
0:28:56 > 0:29:00- There's one obvious promontory - and you can see it behind me.
0:29:00 > 0:29:02- A castle was built on it.
0:29:02 > 0:29:06- In this case, - it's Dryslwyn Castle...
0:29:06 > 0:29:08- ..the most dramatic of ruins.
0:29:08 > 0:29:12- When it was built, - it said two things very clearly.
0:29:12 > 0:29:16- Firstly, it warned people - not to attack the owner...
0:29:16 > 0:29:19- ..because he could defend himself.
0:29:19 > 0:29:22- Secondly, and perhaps - more importantly...
0:29:22 > 0:29:26- ..it sent a clear message - to people for miles around.
0:29:26 > 0:29:30- This is my castle, - and this is my land.
0:29:35 > 0:29:40- In medieval times, farming developed - in places such as the Tywi Valley.
0:29:42 > 0:29:45- The warmer climate - helped farmers.
0:29:48 > 0:29:52- It was around two degrees warmer - than it is today.
0:29:56 > 0:30:01- During the same period, the land - was claimed by Cistercian monks...
0:30:02 > 0:30:06- ..who came here from Europe - with new ideas about how to farm.
0:30:08 > 0:30:11- They rented the land - from Welsh princes.
0:30:11 > 0:30:13- As a part of the agreement...
0:30:14 > 0:30:20- ..they were to clear the woodland - to create pastures and new fields.
0:30:24 > 0:30:29- In Norman times, monks owned - around 10% of Wales.
0:30:30 > 0:30:34- They farmed fertile valleys - like the Conwy Valley.
0:30:34 > 0:30:39- They transformed the land and - created an agricultural landscape...
0:30:40 > 0:30:43- ..similar to that still seen today.
0:30:45 > 0:30:48- They had also started the process...
0:30:48 > 0:30:52- ..of turning the uplands - into grazing land for sheep.
0:30:52 > 0:30:54- It was a huge operation.
0:30:55 > 0:31:00- The nature of the uplands had been - changing for thousands of years.
0:31:03 > 0:31:06- This is a peat bog - on the Brecon Beacons.
0:31:07 > 0:31:12- Mile upon mile of the - mid Wales uplands look like this.
0:31:13 > 0:31:17- Around 7,000 years ago, - deciduous trees grew here.
0:31:20 > 0:31:25- Over a period spanning several - generations, trees were felled.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29- This coincided with - a deterioration in the climate...
0:31:30 > 0:31:31- ..and it turned very wet.
0:31:32 > 0:31:35- Some people believe - those two elements...
0:31:36 > 0:31:39- ..caused bogs to form - on the uplands.
0:31:42 > 0:31:47- The combination of wetlands forming - and pastures being created...
0:31:47 > 0:31:52- ..transformed the uplands of Wales - into the bare expanses we see today.
0:31:55 > 0:31:57- Eventually, every lake disappears.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02- Lakes such as Cregennan Lakes - in Merioneth...
0:32:02 > 0:32:06- ..are temporary features - on the landscape.
0:32:08 > 0:32:13- After hundreds or thousands - of years, a lake will empty...
0:32:13 > 0:32:15- ..or fill with sediment.
0:32:15 > 0:32:19- At some point in a lake's history, - it turns into a bog...
0:32:19 > 0:32:22- ..before vanishing completely.
0:32:25 > 0:32:30- That's precisely what's happening - at Cors Erddreiniog on Anglesey.
0:32:30 > 0:32:36- Only a small pond remains - where there was once a large lake.
0:32:38 > 0:32:41- The same thing happened - in Cors Goch nearby.
0:32:44 > 0:32:48- Over thousands of years, - this large, ancient lake...
0:32:48 > 0:32:52- ..filled with dead plants and - stones from the surrounding land.
0:32:54 > 0:32:57- The lake became clogged - and a bog was created.
0:33:12 > 0:33:17- There are bogs all over Wales. - This is Cors Caron, near Tregaron.
0:33:18 > 0:33:22- Each bog is different - in terms of wetness and vegetation.
0:33:23 > 0:33:27- They also differ according to - their developmental stage...
0:33:27 > 0:33:30- ..but they're all ancient lakes.
0:33:33 > 0:33:38- Storms raged along the Welsh coast - during the 14th century...
0:33:39 > 0:33:42- ..and the landscape changed - almost overnight.
0:33:46 > 0:33:49- Sand was blown further inland - off the beaches.
0:33:51 > 0:33:53- Huge sand dunes formed.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00- Some sand dunes already existed...
0:34:00 > 0:34:03- ..but they expanded - in areas like Morfa Harlech.
0:34:04 > 0:34:06- The force of the sand drift - was such...
0:34:07 > 0:34:11- ..that it caused huge problems - for Welsh coastal communities.
0:34:15 > 0:34:19- In Kenfig, near Port Talbot, - a whole village was lost.
0:34:22 > 0:34:24- These are the ruins - of Kenfig Castle.
0:34:26 > 0:34:32- Huge sand drifts made it impossible - for people to clear the land.
0:34:33 > 0:34:37- They had to move and leave - the sand dunes to the wildlife.
0:34:40 > 0:34:44- It's now one of the - most important habitats in Wales...
0:34:45 > 0:34:49- ..due to the diverse array of plants - and animals found here.
0:35:20 > 0:35:24- Gregynog, near Newtown, is one of - my favourite places in mid Wales.
0:35:25 > 0:35:28- We're focusing on man - changing the landscape...
0:35:28 > 0:35:33- ..but it's important to remember - it's not a new phenomenon.
0:35:33 > 0:35:36- Two, three, four centuries ago...
0:35:36 > 0:35:40- ..wealthy people would buy land - and build big houses on it.
0:35:41 > 0:35:43- Landscapes were transformed.
0:35:43 > 0:35:48- They imported trees from America - and shrubs from the Far East.
0:35:49 > 0:35:54- Those would be blended with the best - of the land's natural resources.
0:35:54 > 0:35:56- In this case, ancient oak trees.
0:35:57 > 0:36:01- By accident, they created - perfect habitats for wildlife.
0:36:17 > 0:36:22- Many manor houses like Gregynog - were built during the 19th century.
0:36:22 > 0:36:25- However, the estates - already existed.
0:36:25 > 0:36:29- The gentry that lived here - played an important role...
0:36:29 > 0:36:32- ..by planting trees.
0:36:34 > 0:36:39- By 1700, there were fewer trees - in Wales than there are today.
0:36:40 > 0:36:43- They were almost all - deciduous trees.
0:36:47 > 0:36:51- One of the few evergreen trees - on the landscape was the yew.
0:36:51 > 0:36:56- It may have been saved - thanks to its religious links.
0:37:02 > 0:37:06- During the 18th century, - a lack of wood became a problem.
0:37:07 > 0:37:10- Man needed wood - to build villages and boats.
0:37:11 > 0:37:16- By the end of the century, Britain - was at war with Napoleon in France.
0:37:19 > 0:37:24- It was also a period when explorers - travelled to distant lands...
0:37:24 > 0:37:27- ..and brought new plants to Britain.
0:37:31 > 0:37:35- All these factors led to new trees - appearing in rural Wales.
0:37:40 > 0:37:44- Exotic trees were planted - in the gardens of stately homes.
0:37:45 > 0:37:49- Trees which were new to Wales - were planted on the uplands.
0:37:50 > 0:37:53- These were grown - for building purposes.
0:37:56 > 0:38:00- Wood was again in short supply - after the First World War.
0:38:00 > 0:38:02- More trees had to be planted.
0:38:02 > 0:38:06- The Forestry Commission - was established...
0:38:06 > 0:38:11- ..with the aim of creating woodlands - in every part of Wales...
0:38:11 > 0:38:15- ..chiefly on the uplands, as it - wasn't useful agricultural land.
0:38:19 > 0:38:22- Private landowners - also planted woodlands.
0:38:22 > 0:38:27- Among the most prolific of those - were English water companies.
0:38:34 > 0:38:37- Today, 14% of the Welsh landscape - is forested...
0:38:39 > 0:38:43- ..but the most common tree - is the spruce, not the oak.
0:38:45 > 0:38:45- .
0:38:48 > 0:38:48- 888
0:38:48 > 0:38:50- 888- - 888
0:38:52 > 0:38:57- Industry has left its mark - on the landscape throughout Wales.
0:39:01 > 0:39:04- Old industries - and new industries alike.
0:39:04 > 0:39:07- Huge chunks of Wales - have been commandeered...
0:39:08 > 0:39:10- ..to create unnatural landscapes.
0:39:18 > 0:39:22- And yet, many of those - industrial landscapes...
0:39:22 > 0:39:25- ..are images that symbolize Wales.
0:39:31 > 0:39:35- Industry has left an indelible mark - on the north Wales landscape.
0:39:37 > 0:39:43- It also created communities like - Blaenau Ffestiniog and Bethesda.
0:39:57 > 0:40:01- I'll ask the same question - throughout this series.
0:40:01 > 0:40:05- Why does the Welsh landscape - look the way it does today?
0:40:05 > 0:40:09- Here, above Blaenavon, - the answer is simple.
0:40:09 > 0:40:10- Man.
0:40:11 > 0:40:14- Two centuries ago, - this looked like a scene from hell.
0:40:15 > 0:40:19- The coal mine, the ironworks, - huge fires and smoke.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22- Hundreds of people. Pollution.
0:40:24 > 0:40:26- These hills on which I'm standing...
0:40:26 > 0:40:30- ..were created from waste - from the coal mine.
0:40:31 > 0:40:37- It's really toxic, but despite that, - heather has started to grow on it.
0:40:37 > 0:40:43- There would have been heather here - centuries before the mine opened.
0:40:45 > 0:40:48- Heather seeds can live in soil - for over a century...
0:40:49 > 0:40:51- ..even in a place like this.
0:40:54 > 0:40:59- Wildlife is returning to the old - coal tips and ponds of Blaenavon.
0:41:11 > 0:41:15- Owls now fly over what was once - industrial land.
0:41:28 > 0:41:32- In other parts of south Wales, - such as Clydach Vale...
0:41:33 > 0:41:36- ..the old slag heaps - blend into the landscape.
0:41:37 > 0:41:38- Signs of industry vanish.
0:41:39 > 0:41:43- You would hardly recognize this - as an old coal mining valley.
0:42:00 > 0:42:04- Industry impacted on the landscape - in a different way.
0:42:04 > 0:42:08- A way had to be found - to transport materials and goods.
0:42:10 > 0:42:12- Canals were the answer.
0:42:13 > 0:42:17- Pontcysyllte Aqueduct - in the Vale of Llangollen.
0:42:18 > 0:42:20- It was built in 1805.
0:42:20 > 0:42:23- Designed by Thomas Telford...
0:42:23 > 0:42:27- ..it carried Llangollen Canal - across the River Dee.
0:42:28 > 0:42:32- It's one of the jewels in the crown - of transport history.
0:42:33 > 0:42:39- Many of Wales's canals were built - during the Industrial Revolution.
0:42:44 > 0:42:47- This is Montgomery Canal, - near Newtown.
0:42:48 > 0:42:52- There is no industrial traffic - on the canals today...
0:42:53 > 0:42:57- ..but they have developed - into rich nature reserves.
0:43:02 > 0:43:06- This is an aqueduct across - the River Vyrnwy, near Llanymynech.
0:43:06 > 0:43:09- It's another masterpiece - of the industrial age.
0:43:11 > 0:43:14- This is the best section - of the canal for wildlife.
0:43:28 > 0:43:31- The canals - had only just been built...
0:43:31 > 0:43:34- ..when a new mode of transport - was invented.
0:43:34 > 0:43:36- It was a far better mode too.
0:43:39 > 0:43:42- The railway - reached all parts of Wales.
0:43:45 > 0:43:47- This too was an engineering feat.
0:43:49 > 0:43:54- The railway ran through - even the most remote areas of Wales.
0:43:58 > 0:44:00- This is the Heart of Wales line.
0:44:00 > 0:44:05- It climbs one of the steepest - Welsh hills, near Sugar Loaf, Powys.
0:44:11 > 0:44:15- Today, most of the railway lines - are gone...
0:44:16 > 0:44:18- ..but their legacy lives on.
0:44:26 > 0:44:29- This is a disused line - in Dryslwyn, Carmarthenshire.
0:44:30 > 0:44:34- The tracks have gone - and this is now a green lane.
0:44:39 > 0:44:43- Old railways like this - are great places for wildlife.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47- That's because humans - no longer interfere with the place.
0:44:47 > 0:44:52- This is the old Tywi Valley line. - It linked Llandeilo and Carmarthen.
0:44:52 > 0:44:56- Even when it was open, - it was a great place...
0:44:56 > 0:45:00- ..because there was so much growth - along the edges.
0:45:00 > 0:45:05- It would have been full of flowers, - small mammals, insects and birds.
0:45:05 > 0:45:08- It must have been - a wonderful train journey...
0:45:08 > 0:45:11- ..in the shadow of Dryslwyn Castle.
0:45:17 > 0:45:20- Today, new roads - have replaced the old paths.
0:45:26 > 0:45:31- You're never far from a main road - these days, even in rural Wales.
0:45:36 > 0:45:40- They're not beautiful additions - to the Welsh landscape...
0:45:40 > 0:45:44- ..and they've stolen - large chunks of the land.
0:45:44 > 0:45:49- They're a necessity because - we want to get everywhere quickly.
0:45:52 > 0:45:55- Despite the heavy traffic...
0:45:55 > 0:46:00- ..nature has found a way to live - among the hustle and bustle.
0:46:12 > 0:46:16- At least we can escape - to secluded areas.
0:46:23 > 0:46:27- I'm sitting on the Beacons, - looking down towards Heol Senni.
0:46:28 > 0:46:34- Personally, this scene encapsulates - Wales and its various landscapes.
0:46:35 > 0:46:37- The mountainous land on the top...
0:46:37 > 0:46:42- ..leads down to mountain pasture - with bracken and saplings.
0:46:43 > 0:46:47- Beneath that, we have some - traditional agricultural land...
0:46:47 > 0:46:49- ..with small hedges.
0:46:49 > 0:46:53- We then have some marshland - with the yellow grass on it.
0:46:53 > 0:46:57- Further down again, - we have deciduous trees...
0:46:58 > 0:47:00- ..and a few pockets of pine trees.
0:47:01 > 0:47:05- Over there, you can see - heather-covered mountains.
0:47:06 > 0:47:10- The wonderful thing is that you - find all this in one small valley.
0:47:10 > 0:47:13- Where there's - such a variety of habitats...
0:47:14 > 0:47:16- ..there's a huge variety - of wildlife.
0:47:39 > 0:47:42- This is a contemporary picture - of Wales.
0:47:45 > 0:47:48- It's a country - of different landscapes.
0:47:52 > 0:47:54- We're familiar with some...
0:47:58 > 0:48:00- ..but not with others.
0:48:01 > 0:48:06- During the coming programmes, - I'll study different landscapes...
0:48:06 > 0:48:09- ..to discover - why they look as they do.
0:48:10 > 0:48:12- I'll also find out - what lives in them.
0:48:14 > 0:48:18- I'll visit locations - which are new to me.
0:48:21 > 0:48:25- The journey takes me - to the prettiest rural locations.
0:48:27 > 0:48:30- I'll look at landscapes - shaped by industry.
0:48:33 > 0:48:39- I'll study the manner in which - we've created the land of Wales.
0:49:05 > 0:49:08- S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
0:49:08 > 0:49:08- .