Australia

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0:00:02 > 0:00:06For over two centuries, a remarkable collection of Scots

0:00:06 > 0:00:10blazed a trail into unknown corners of the world.

0:00:10 > 0:00:13Their epic journeys in the harshest of conditions

0:00:13 > 0:00:18helped forge nations and draw the maps of three continents.

0:00:19 > 0:00:24From the frozen wastes of Canada to the unseen heart of Africa

0:00:24 > 0:00:28and across the rolling oceans to the parched deserts of Australia,

0:00:28 > 0:00:33Scottish explorers have been at the forefront of expanding the frontiers

0:00:33 > 0:00:36of the world in which we live.

0:00:36 > 0:00:40This is the story of the Scottish discovery of our world.

0:00:50 > 0:00:53NEWSREEL: Today, seven million Australians celebrate with pride

0:00:53 > 0:00:56and thanksgiving the mighty growth of the seed

0:00:56 > 0:00:58planted less than five generations ago.

0:00:58 > 0:01:02In 1938, Australia celebrated its 150th birthday.

0:01:02 > 0:01:05The story of the arrival of Captain Cook

0:01:05 > 0:01:08and Captain Phillip, of the First Fleet

0:01:08 > 0:01:11first-footing an empty continent in the southern ocean,

0:01:11 > 0:01:14was by then a well known one.

0:01:19 > 0:01:21But behind the pageantry and backslapping

0:01:21 > 0:01:26was an unspoken truth - that the country called Australia

0:01:26 > 0:01:29was only just within the grasp of its white rulers.

0:01:29 > 0:01:31NEWSREEL: "A white man arrives..."

0:01:31 > 0:01:34A mere 80 years before these celebrations,

0:01:34 > 0:01:39no white man had even seen the centre of the continent.

0:01:39 > 0:01:42Parts of the continent remained blank spaces on the map.

0:01:42 > 0:01:46Australians were celebrating the birth of a country they barely knew.

0:01:48 > 0:01:50People are still scared by this country.

0:01:50 > 0:01:53Australia's a hard place - it won't give easily,

0:01:53 > 0:01:56because it's so old, so worn down

0:01:56 > 0:02:01and you have to know it really, really well to survive in it.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17Lachlan Macquarie, from Ulva near Mull,

0:02:17 > 0:02:21became governor of New South Wales in 1809.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23The young colony was not in good shape.

0:02:25 > 0:02:27The life of the convicts in early Australia

0:02:27 > 0:02:31was nasty, brutish and short.

0:02:31 > 0:02:34People who have convict ancestors today will say,

0:02:34 > 0:02:37"Oh, no, they were all sent out for stealing a loaf of bread."

0:02:37 > 0:02:38This is rubbish.

0:02:38 > 0:02:40Most of them were fairly crooked people

0:02:40 > 0:02:45and they were thrown on very harsh times and they had to survive.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48So, yes, there was a lot of nastiness going on,

0:02:48 > 0:02:50not only from the convicts -

0:02:50 > 0:02:54the soldiery were equally lecherous and evil.

0:02:54 > 0:02:59The corruption and vice offended Macquarie's staunch Presbyterianism.

0:02:59 > 0:03:02He immediately disbanded the local police force

0:03:02 > 0:03:05and replaced them with his own soldiers.

0:03:05 > 0:03:09He would rule New South Wales as a benevolent dictator.

0:03:09 > 0:03:12He was the first military army governor.

0:03:12 > 0:03:15There was always this tension going on between the armed forces

0:03:15 > 0:03:18who were supposed to control what was going on

0:03:18 > 0:03:22and the governor who was supposed to make the rules about what went on.

0:03:22 > 0:03:25Once Macquarie was here, there wasn't that tension,

0:03:25 > 0:03:27that was taken out of the equation,

0:03:27 > 0:03:31and so the governor was able to make decisions and force things to happen.

0:03:31 > 0:03:36And Macquarie had a vision for his dusty, unruly colony.

0:03:36 > 0:03:40He thought it could become a nation, populated by free men and women,

0:03:40 > 0:03:43paying its way within the British Empire.

0:03:43 > 0:03:46Macquarie had a big repair job to do in the first instance

0:03:46 > 0:03:50and then moved on to develop the colony

0:03:50 > 0:03:53like no other governor before him had been able to.

0:03:55 > 0:03:59Macquarie believed Australia needed more of three things -

0:03:59 > 0:04:01more free people, more buildings

0:04:01 > 0:04:05and more land...much more land.

0:04:05 > 0:04:07The first two were relatively easy.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10Macquarie encouraged the rehabilitation of convicts

0:04:10 > 0:04:14and employed many of them in powerful positions.

0:04:14 > 0:04:17He was quite good at locating convicts

0:04:17 > 0:04:20who had something to offer the colony.

0:04:20 > 0:04:24An outstanding example is Francis Greenway the architect,

0:04:24 > 0:04:27who was very useful in many of the building projects.

0:04:37 > 0:04:41Macquarie saw the need to build a proper nation

0:04:41 > 0:04:44and while there were people who said, "He's getting above himself,

0:04:44 > 0:04:48"this is too good, we just want slab huts,

0:04:48 > 0:04:50"that's good enough for the colonials,"

0:04:50 > 0:04:53Macquarie was building for a greater future.

0:04:55 > 0:04:58But if Macquarie's vision were to be realised,

0:04:58 > 0:05:02if New South Wales were to flourish, the people who lived there

0:05:02 > 0:05:05were going to have to move beyond their little strip of coast.

0:05:14 > 0:05:17Sydney is hemmed in by the Blue Mountains to the west

0:05:17 > 0:05:19and the ocean to the east.

0:05:19 > 0:05:23When Macquarie arrived, Australia effectively stopped

0:05:23 > 0:05:27only a few miles from the water's edge.

0:05:27 > 0:05:28For 25 years, the Blue Mountains,

0:05:28 > 0:05:30the great dividing range west of Sydney,

0:05:30 > 0:05:34stopped anyone getting over to the arable lands

0:05:34 > 0:05:36and the good water on the other side.

0:05:37 > 0:05:39Once we had a way across,

0:05:39 > 0:05:43suddenly the whole colony could expand massively

0:05:43 > 0:05:45and go in all directions, but people had to map it out,

0:05:45 > 0:05:47find where the good land was

0:05:47 > 0:05:50and Macquarie was the one to send people out to do that.

0:05:51 > 0:05:56Millions of acres of unmapped land sat on Macquarie's doorstep.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58If the land could be claimed and tamed,

0:05:58 > 0:06:00then the prison could become a nation.

0:06:00 > 0:06:04But to unlock that land, Macquarie would need explorers.

0:06:09 > 0:06:12North of Sydney is the city of Brisbane.

0:06:12 > 0:06:15200 years ago, this tropical paradise

0:06:15 > 0:06:18was the site of the Morton Bay penal colony.

0:06:18 > 0:06:20Its commander was Captain Patrick Logan

0:06:20 > 0:06:22from Berwickshire.

0:06:26 > 0:06:29Patrick Logan, like a lot of Scots,

0:06:29 > 0:06:33found an outlet for limited employment in Scotland

0:06:33 > 0:06:35by joining the army or the colonial service

0:06:35 > 0:06:39and he was certainly a zealous commandant

0:06:39 > 0:06:42of the Morton Bay convict establishment.

0:06:45 > 0:06:48Logan was a harsh, unforgiving jailer.

0:06:48 > 0:06:52He had none of Macquarie's enlightened attitude to his convicts,

0:06:52 > 0:06:55who frequently suffered hundreds of lashes as punishment.

0:06:55 > 0:06:58So hated was Logan

0:06:58 > 0:07:02that he soon acquired the nickname The Tyrant of Brisbane Town.

0:07:02 > 0:07:06But Logan was also a compulsive explorer,

0:07:06 > 0:07:09sharing Macquarie's belief in opening up the country.

0:07:09 > 0:07:11He charted local rivers

0:07:11 > 0:07:13and travelled across a range of mountains

0:07:13 > 0:07:15he named the McPherson Range.

0:07:17 > 0:07:20When he ascended Mount Barney in 1827,

0:07:20 > 0:07:24Logan had climbed higher than any white man on the continent.

0:07:24 > 0:07:28Step by step, he was increasing European knowledge

0:07:28 > 0:07:31of the land west of Morton Bay.

0:07:31 > 0:07:32But this kind of exploration

0:07:32 > 0:07:36inevitably brought Europeans like Logan into contact

0:07:36 > 0:07:38with Australia's Aboriginal people.

0:07:40 > 0:07:45The result was a clash of two very different civilisations.

0:07:45 > 0:07:48The first instinct of Aboriginal people in seeing Europeans,

0:07:48 > 0:07:52because of all the gear, the paraphernalia,

0:07:52 > 0:07:55the boats and things like that, there was an element of fear

0:07:55 > 0:07:58and a bit of aggression as well,

0:07:58 > 0:08:00as has been documented time and time again.

0:08:00 > 0:08:06But a lot of the time, they wanted Europeans to take their pants off.

0:08:06 > 0:08:10You know, "Who are you? Oh, you're a man." They wanted to know that.

0:08:10 > 0:08:14It might have seemed funny to the explorer.

0:08:14 > 0:08:16For Aboriginal people, it was deadly serious.

0:08:16 > 0:08:19"We need to know who you are, what sex you are

0:08:19 > 0:08:21"and where you've come from."

0:08:21 > 0:08:25So the whole meeting between Aboriginal people

0:08:25 > 0:08:28and Europeans was generally completely misunderstood.

0:08:31 > 0:08:35Craig Ross is an Aboriginal land owner from central Australia.

0:08:35 > 0:08:37The experience of his ancestors

0:08:37 > 0:08:41in meeting European explorers for the first time was typical.

0:08:41 > 0:08:45When our great grandmother, when she was a little girl

0:08:45 > 0:08:47and seen them people coming here, most of the time

0:08:47 > 0:08:53they seen them coming sitting on top of the bushes, in a sense, floating.

0:08:54 > 0:08:57Might have been with no shirt on.

0:08:57 > 0:09:00And they're like, "What's this here, coming back? Mumoo,"

0:09:00 > 0:09:03you know, monster or spirit, you know, bad one,

0:09:03 > 0:09:05coming back to visit again.

0:09:05 > 0:09:08So it was a "run away" job!

0:09:08 > 0:09:13And the pale colour of European skin was not a good omen.

0:09:13 > 0:09:16Death, in a way, is represented by white,

0:09:16 > 0:09:20so our people viewing the white skins of those visitors

0:09:20 > 0:09:24had some type of fear - fearing of returning spirits and so forth.

0:09:27 > 0:09:31In 1830, as Logan pushed inland,

0:09:31 > 0:09:35tensions with the local Aborigines were running high.

0:09:35 > 0:09:38On several occasions, Logan's party was confronted

0:09:38 > 0:09:41and warned not to cross the river.

0:09:41 > 0:09:49Logan was a very strong commandant but he perhaps was too zealous

0:09:49 > 0:09:53and too lacking in care for his own safety.

0:09:55 > 0:09:57Impatient with the slow progress,

0:09:57 > 0:10:01Logan abandoned his travelling companions and pushed ahead alone.

0:10:01 > 0:10:04He was never seen alive again.

0:10:06 > 0:10:11A search party found his lifeless body buried in a shallow grave,

0:10:11 > 0:10:13his skull caved in.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20Logan is said to have been killed by Aboriginal people

0:10:20 > 0:10:22at the instigation of convicts.

0:10:23 > 0:10:25That's one theory.

0:10:25 > 0:10:28Another theory is that perhaps runaway convicts

0:10:28 > 0:10:31in cahoots with Aboriginal people did the deed.

0:10:32 > 0:10:37Blame for Logan's death eventually fell on the local Aborigines.

0:10:37 > 0:10:40Shock, fear and anger spread through white Australia.

0:10:41 > 0:10:46Logan's exploits had expanded their knowledge of their country,

0:10:46 > 0:10:50but his death crystallised the dangers of their new home.

0:10:50 > 0:10:54Outside their small settlements and beyond the barricades,

0:10:54 > 0:10:59lurked a strange group of people they simply did not understand.

0:11:06 > 0:11:11But exploration need not always open the door on a terrifying world.

0:11:11 > 0:11:16Another Scottish explorer who looked beyond the city walls

0:11:16 > 0:11:19saw a land ripe for cultivation and settlement,

0:11:19 > 0:11:21a paradise beyond the Blue Mountains.

0:11:30 > 0:11:31Thomas Livingstone Mitchell

0:11:31 > 0:11:33from Grangemouth was the Scotsman

0:11:33 > 0:11:37whose surveys and maps opened the way for the settlement

0:11:37 > 0:11:40of much of South Eastern Australia.

0:11:40 > 0:11:43"Of this Eden, I was the first European to explore its mountains

0:11:43 > 0:11:46"and streams, to behold its scenery,

0:11:46 > 0:11:51"certain to become at no distant date of vast importance to a new people."

0:11:57 > 0:12:00Mitchell was a very dominant figure

0:12:00 > 0:12:03in the survey department and perhaps domineering.

0:12:03 > 0:12:08I think he's a man of enormous ambition.

0:12:08 > 0:12:11I don't think I'd like him as my boss on an expedition,

0:12:11 > 0:12:14but if I were travelling with the expedition and I didn't know much

0:12:14 > 0:12:16about the country, I would rather have him in charge,

0:12:16 > 0:12:21because he was going to get through it and he was going to survive.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24Thomas Mitchell honed his surveying skills

0:12:24 > 0:12:27on the battlefields of the Peninsula War.

0:12:27 > 0:12:29Mitchell spent a lot of his time behind enemy lines

0:12:29 > 0:12:31with a theodylite and a rifle

0:12:31 > 0:12:35and he did topographic surveys where Wellington's troops were to go.

0:12:35 > 0:12:37The type of surveying

0:12:37 > 0:12:40was what we call reconnaissance trigometrical surveying,

0:12:40 > 0:12:42where you climbed up the top of mountains

0:12:42 > 0:12:45and you observed other mountains and features down the valley,

0:12:45 > 0:12:49then you went to another mountain and you observed again

0:12:49 > 0:12:53and put them all together like a matrix of triangles.

0:12:53 > 0:12:55He put a lot of the country on the map

0:12:55 > 0:12:58in a way where others could then find their way through it,

0:12:58 > 0:13:00but a lot of it was finding routes.

0:13:00 > 0:13:03People think it was about going out and looking for stuff,

0:13:03 > 0:13:05but often it was just getting a way through,

0:13:05 > 0:13:08knowing this was a direction you could travel.

0:13:08 > 0:13:10The more Mitchell explored,

0:13:10 > 0:13:15the more he realised the immense potential of the land.

0:13:15 > 0:13:17"We were delighted with the prospect

0:13:17 > 0:13:20"of so favourable a country for extending..."

0:13:20 > 0:13:21"The soil of this last plain..."

0:13:21 > 0:13:24"Trees grew upon it in beautiful groups..."

0:13:24 > 0:13:27"The grass resembled a field of young wheat."

0:13:27 > 0:13:29"The scrub beyond was close

0:13:29 > 0:13:31"and consisted of a variety of dark leaves..."

0:13:31 > 0:13:34"The region beyond these mountains is beautiful

0:13:34 > 0:13:36"and it is sufficiently well watered

0:13:36 > 0:13:38"to become an important addition

0:13:38 > 0:13:41"to the pastoral capabilities of New South Wales."

0:13:42 > 0:13:48In 1831, only 12 months after the death of Patrick Logan,

0:13:48 > 0:13:51Mitchell began an extraordinary series of expeditions

0:13:51 > 0:13:52into the Australian heartland,

0:13:52 > 0:13:55journeys which would transform Australian's knowledge

0:13:55 > 0:13:59of their own country and pave the way for the nation it would become.

0:14:03 > 0:14:08Today, Australian artist Eliza Tree is retracing Mitchell's steps,

0:14:08 > 0:14:10camping in the same sites that he did

0:14:10 > 0:14:13and re-imagining, through Mitchell's eyes,

0:14:13 > 0:14:15the way that Australia once was.

0:14:16 > 0:14:20Well, I suppose when I discovered Mitchell's journal,

0:14:20 > 0:14:23I realised that it just contained so much information

0:14:23 > 0:14:25which I'm really intrigued with.

0:14:25 > 0:14:31When I found out that he had taken such a huge party of people with him

0:14:31 > 0:14:34and all that kind of thing, I just thought,

0:14:34 > 0:14:35"This is bigger than Ben Hur

0:14:35 > 0:14:38"and I need to find out what it's all about."

0:14:38 > 0:14:43They usually travelled between 10 and 16 miles a day,

0:14:43 > 0:14:48which was pretty well all they could manage with the oxen and drays.

0:14:48 > 0:14:53Mitchell himself would have covered vastly more country than that.

0:14:53 > 0:14:58He would have been up every hilltop, every valley.

0:14:58 > 0:14:59Beautiful country.

0:15:03 > 0:15:08Well, Mitchell at the time was the surveyor general of Sydney

0:15:08 > 0:15:11and this was what was known as the 19 counties

0:15:11 > 0:15:14which they'd spent quite a bit of time mapping

0:15:14 > 0:15:16and this was the outer limits of the settlement.

0:15:16 > 0:15:20Mitchell had, in 1831, taken a journey up north.

0:15:20 > 0:15:26In 1835, he travelled out west but on his journey of 1836,

0:15:26 > 0:15:27which is my main focus,

0:15:27 > 0:15:32it was a 2,400 mile journey

0:15:32 > 0:15:34over eight or nine months.

0:15:34 > 0:15:37It was extensive.

0:15:37 > 0:15:42So extensive, in fact, that Mitchell realised he would need help.

0:15:42 > 0:15:45He developed a profound appreciation of the bush ranging skills

0:15:45 > 0:15:47of the Aborigines.

0:15:47 > 0:15:49"Their shrewdness shines,

0:15:49 > 0:15:51"even through the medium of imperfect language,

0:15:51 > 0:15:56"and renders them, in general, very agreeable companions."

0:15:56 > 0:15:59Mitchell saw the great beauty of Aboriginal life.

0:15:59 > 0:16:03He saw the comfort, the happiness, the produce,

0:16:03 > 0:16:09the health and he was enamoured of those things

0:16:09 > 0:16:13and so many other fellow explorers and settlers,

0:16:13 > 0:16:16they went out of their way to demean Aboriginal people.

0:16:16 > 0:16:19Mitchell pushed further and further

0:16:19 > 0:16:23into the heart of South-Eastern Australia.

0:16:23 > 0:16:27In March 1836, disregarding orders to return home,

0:16:27 > 0:16:31he set off on what is regarded as his most significant journey -

0:16:31 > 0:16:36the Australia Felix - or Happy Australia Expedition.

0:16:43 > 0:16:47Mitchell had instruction to look around for any good pasture land

0:16:47 > 0:16:52and pasture land was very important in those days because sheep

0:16:52 > 0:16:57came into their own as a primary earner of money in Australia.

0:16:57 > 0:17:01In South-West Victoria, Mitchell uncovered a region

0:17:01 > 0:17:05of rich agricultural land that reminded him of home.

0:17:07 > 0:17:09The land is dotted with familiar names.

0:17:09 > 0:17:14To follow these place names today is to follow Mitchell's route.

0:17:18 > 0:17:21He discovered very valuable pastureland

0:17:21 > 0:17:24and he made his name through that in many ways.

0:17:24 > 0:17:27You don't make your name as being a surveyor - you make your name

0:17:27 > 0:17:30being an explorer and discovering things that people appreciate.

0:17:35 > 0:17:37Mitchell's Australia Felix expedition

0:17:37 > 0:17:40confirmed Lachlan Macquarie's belief

0:17:40 > 0:17:45that the land beyond the cities would be the foundation of a new nation.

0:17:45 > 0:17:49But Mitchell could also see the ancient way of life he so admired

0:17:49 > 0:17:51was under threat.

0:17:51 > 0:17:53"The kangaroo disappears from cattle runs

0:17:53 > 0:17:57"and is killed by stockman merely for the sake of its skin

0:17:57 > 0:18:00"but no mercy is shown to the natives who may help themselves

0:18:00 > 0:18:03"to a bullock or a sheep.

0:18:03 > 0:18:06"Such a state of things must infallibly lead to the extirpation

0:18:06 > 0:18:10"of the Aboriginal natives unless timely measures are taken

0:18:10 > 0:18:13"for their civilisation and protection."

0:18:16 > 0:18:18Every time you got on a horse

0:18:18 > 0:18:24and rode into new country, they knew that within days,

0:18:24 > 0:18:27sometimes hours, there were other men following these footsteps.

0:18:33 > 0:18:37The reports of Mitchell's discoveries in South-West Victoria

0:18:37 > 0:18:40were a clarion call.

0:18:40 > 0:18:43His expeditions were the first footsteps in a frantic process

0:18:43 > 0:18:45which would see large parts of Victoria

0:18:45 > 0:18:50become populated by like-minded Scottish pioneers.

0:18:50 > 0:18:54Well, the 1830s was a period of rapid expansion of settlement

0:18:54 > 0:18:58because of the development of the wool industry.

0:18:58 > 0:19:04You've got huge areas of land being opened up extremely quickly

0:19:04 > 0:19:08because you needed vast areas of land to run sheep

0:19:08 > 0:19:13and a lot of the impetus behind exploration comes from that.

0:19:21 > 0:19:25On Bannockburn Road on the outskirts of the city of Geelong

0:19:25 > 0:19:30stands a blue-stone mansion house built in 1876.

0:19:30 > 0:19:34Its owner was George Russell, a Fife-born sheep farmer.

0:19:36 > 0:19:39Russell's descendants still live in the area today.

0:19:51 > 0:19:54When he ruminates on the past, he'd hoped to earn...

0:19:54 > 0:19:56something like £100 a year would be great -

0:19:56 > 0:19:59his own 30-40 acres,

0:19:59 > 0:20:03£100, a few heads of stock and things.

0:20:03 > 0:20:07I think the last published accounts for his personal assets

0:20:07 > 0:20:12was something like £280,000.

0:20:12 > 0:20:14That's money, plus the land he'd accumulated.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17I guess he'll be feeling pretty good about that.

0:20:17 > 0:20:20George Russell's journeys are an example of how the exploration

0:20:20 > 0:20:24of Australia could be the passport to riches,

0:20:24 > 0:20:27if you played your cards right.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30It just must have been overwhelming to have been somewhere

0:20:30 > 0:20:31so absolutely different.

0:20:31 > 0:20:34He talks when he goes back to Scotland about how constraining

0:20:34 > 0:20:36the view is in that it's all villages

0:20:36 > 0:20:39and wee little paddocks and hedgerows and everything's broken up.

0:20:39 > 0:20:42He said there's no vistas like there is in Australia

0:20:42 > 0:20:45where there are no fences and nothing to break the view.

0:20:45 > 0:20:48I think he was riveted by what he'd found.

0:20:52 > 0:20:55For Scots like Russell, Australia offered an escape

0:20:55 > 0:21:00from the hard scrabble, impoverished existence they had known at home.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03"The continuous hard work day after day caused me

0:21:03 > 0:21:07"to be too tired for improving myself to any extent.

0:21:07 > 0:21:11"My father was never in a position to put his sons on farms of their own,

0:21:11 > 0:21:14"which was one of their reasons for their settling in the colonies."

0:21:19 > 0:21:23When George Russell emigrated to Tasmania in 1831,

0:21:23 > 0:21:26he was typical of a new wave of Scottish pioneers.

0:21:26 > 0:21:31Youthful and hard-working, educated but certainly not rich.

0:21:33 > 0:21:35The aristocracy didn't need to emigrate

0:21:35 > 0:21:37and the really poor people couldn't,

0:21:37 > 0:21:41so what you got was the upper-working class,

0:21:41 > 0:21:43the lower-middle class, predominantly,

0:21:43 > 0:21:47and they were very keen to get on

0:21:47 > 0:21:49but they had a keen sense of their own worth.

0:21:51 > 0:21:53"The principle which prevailed at the time

0:21:53 > 0:21:57"in the taking up of the country for occupation by early settlers

0:21:57 > 0:22:02"was that the person who was first on the ground had the prior claim to it.

0:22:02 > 0:22:03"The whole country was open."

0:22:05 > 0:22:08Russell boarded a schooner for Port Phillip Bay

0:22:08 > 0:22:11and headed out into the uncharted bush

0:22:11 > 0:22:13to claim as much land as he could.

0:22:14 > 0:22:17Geelong, close to where Russell first landed,

0:22:17 > 0:22:19is now a pleasant modern city.

0:22:19 > 0:22:23But in 1836, it consisted of a few huts and some tents

0:22:23 > 0:22:26and George Russell wasn't the only pioneer

0:22:26 > 0:22:28landing livestock on the beach.

0:22:28 > 0:22:32Russell watched as John Aiken, formerly of Edinburgh,

0:22:32 > 0:22:37unloaded his brig full of sheep onto the beaches at Port Phillip Bay.

0:22:37 > 0:22:41"Mr Aiken carried every sheep to shore from the boats himself,

0:22:41 > 0:22:44"wading up to his neck in the sea.

0:22:44 > 0:22:48"They continued to work day and night until all the sheep were landed -

0:22:48 > 0:22:50"I think about 800."

0:22:52 > 0:22:58He had to physically lift 800 sheep, he and the others,

0:22:58 > 0:23:02into the lifeboats and then push them or swim them in,

0:23:02 > 0:23:04I don't know how they got them to shore.

0:23:04 > 0:23:07It took all day and well into the night.

0:23:07 > 0:23:10Absolutely extraordinary, I can't imagine how you'd do it.

0:23:10 > 0:23:15Physically, it would have been just a huge feat.

0:23:15 > 0:23:19Russell found himself racing through the bush with livestock

0:23:19 > 0:23:20to grab land,

0:23:20 > 0:23:23leapfrogging the Scots who had already staked their claim

0:23:23 > 0:23:25closer to the bay.

0:23:25 > 0:23:27As he did so, he was pushing into territory

0:23:27 > 0:23:30that no European had ever set foot in.

0:23:30 > 0:23:33This was the era of a different sort of exploration.

0:23:33 > 0:23:36Not one made with the intention of taking survey reading

0:23:36 > 0:23:40with compass and sextant, but one solely motivated by land.

0:23:40 > 0:23:43The main thing now is to find good farming land

0:23:43 > 0:23:47and hopefully to get it and claim a big clump of it for yourself first.

0:23:47 > 0:23:49If you couldn't succeed in doing that,

0:23:49 > 0:23:51then you pretty well missed the boat.

0:23:51 > 0:23:55The land Russell eventually selected was ideal for farming

0:23:55 > 0:23:59and he set about building huts and erecting fences.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01His prospects looked good.

0:24:01 > 0:24:04Out they went looking for good land, good water,

0:24:04 > 0:24:07and then quickly as possible to grab as much of it as they could,

0:24:07 > 0:24:10get some stock, get it on the land so it was theirs.

0:24:10 > 0:24:14But Russell had travelled far beyond established colonial territory.

0:24:14 > 0:24:18He was, in the parlance of the day, a squatter.

0:24:18 > 0:24:20Well, squatting simply means you squat on the land.

0:24:20 > 0:24:22You just go and occupy the land.

0:24:22 > 0:24:26But how did he accumulate 72,000 acres

0:24:26 > 0:24:30without anybody saying to him, "That's far too much land?" I don't know.

0:24:30 > 0:24:33It was really impossible to survey

0:24:33 > 0:24:37and those that got there first got the best land on the river.

0:24:37 > 0:24:41No man's land this may have been, but that didn't mean the government

0:24:41 > 0:24:44passed up a chance to make money from it.

0:24:44 > 0:24:48The land was put up for auction and, to add insult to injury,

0:24:48 > 0:24:52Russell was outbid for the country he had discovered and improved.

0:24:54 > 0:24:58So he simply upped sticks and moved further inland.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01This new country became the basis of a pastoral empire

0:25:01 > 0:25:05that eventually spanned 40 square miles -

0:25:05 > 0:25:08one tenth of the size of his native Fife.

0:25:09 > 0:25:12In the end, having got through all that and ended up owning his land

0:25:12 > 0:25:15and ending up with his big bank balance

0:25:15 > 0:25:18and his family and all of that around him, he must have felt pretty good.

0:25:20 > 0:25:23The journeys of George Russell were central to the expansion

0:25:23 > 0:25:26and taming of Victoria.

0:25:26 > 0:25:30His life is a fine example of the virtues of hard work,

0:25:30 > 0:25:32thrift and determination.

0:25:32 > 0:25:36But whilst he and his fellow Scottish settlers flourished,

0:25:36 > 0:25:38he noticed others were suffering.

0:25:38 > 0:25:43"After some years, the periodical visits I had received from

0:25:43 > 0:25:48"the parties of natives became less frequent and their parties smaller.

0:25:48 > 0:25:50"Great numbers of them

0:25:50 > 0:25:54"died from inflammation of the lungs brought on by severe colds.

0:25:54 > 0:25:58"The general opinion appears to be that the natives are destined

0:25:58 > 0:26:02"to become extinct as a race."

0:26:02 > 0:26:07As Scots and others became ever more successful explorers

0:26:07 > 0:26:10and ever more dedicated to building the Australian nation,

0:26:10 > 0:26:13the predicament of the people who had lived in this land

0:26:13 > 0:26:16for thousands of years grew worse day by day.

0:26:21 > 0:26:24The initial reaction of the Aboriginal people was,

0:26:24 > 0:26:27if someone enters your country you try to deal with them.

0:26:27 > 0:26:29Your first instinct is not to kill

0:26:29 > 0:26:34but to make these people respond to the law of the land

0:26:34 > 0:26:36and you just expect that they will,

0:26:36 > 0:26:40because in 60,000 years that's all you've known.

0:26:40 > 0:26:42Accompanying the arrival of white Australia

0:26:42 > 0:26:45was a whirlwind of violence.

0:26:45 > 0:26:47There was a war going on in the country

0:26:47 > 0:26:52and Aboriginal people were turning back Europeans all over Australia.

0:26:52 > 0:26:55In Victoria, in the western district,

0:26:55 > 0:26:58Aboriginal people drove the early settlers out of the country

0:26:58 > 0:27:00back towards Melbourne.

0:27:01 > 0:27:04On the 9th June, 1838,

0:27:04 > 0:27:07the Aborigine people of Myall Creek in New South Wales

0:27:07 > 0:27:10were confronted by a band of frontiersmen

0:27:10 > 0:27:13intent on punishing Aborigines for rushing their cattle.

0:27:13 > 0:27:18The frontiersmen rounded up nearly 30 men, women and children.

0:27:18 > 0:27:20Tied together they were led into the hills.

0:27:20 > 0:27:24There they were killed - their children were decapitated.

0:27:27 > 0:27:30There's not only brutality happens on the Australian frontier

0:27:30 > 0:27:33from time to time, there's actually depravity.

0:27:33 > 0:27:37There are just appalling things happening.

0:27:38 > 0:27:40Depraved is the right word for it

0:27:42 > 0:27:45Even by the lawless standards of the frontier,

0:27:45 > 0:27:49the Myall Creek massacre was an outrage which could not be ignored.

0:27:49 > 0:27:54Seven frontiersmen were tried, found guilty and sentenced to death.

0:27:54 > 0:28:00In their defence, they claimed that killing Aborigines was so common they hadn't realised it was illegal.

0:28:02 > 0:28:06In all these places, it was possible to do things a bit differently

0:28:06 > 0:28:11and you probably didn't need to drive people

0:28:11 > 0:28:12off cliffs into the sea.

0:28:12 > 0:28:15You didn't need to round them up and shoot them in water holes.

0:28:15 > 0:28:20The events of Myall Creek left a profound impression

0:28:20 > 0:28:23on the settlers in nearby Victoria, many of them Scottish.

0:28:23 > 0:28:25The lesson was clear.

0:28:25 > 0:28:28If you were going to get into a fight with the Aborigines,

0:28:28 > 0:28:29best to keep quiet about it.

0:28:33 > 0:28:38To the east of Melbourne is a region called Gippsland. It is remote.

0:28:38 > 0:28:42Cut off from the rest of the continent by the Snowy Mountains.

0:28:42 > 0:28:45Much of it today remains a wilderness.

0:28:48 > 0:28:52Its discovery and mapping are largely down to one man -

0:28:52 > 0:28:56a Gaelic-speaking islander called Angus McMillan.

0:28:58 > 0:29:02In the 1830s, traditional Gaelic culture in the Highlands

0:29:02 > 0:29:04of Scotland was in decline.

0:29:04 > 0:29:07Estates were being cleared of tenant farmers

0:29:07 > 0:29:09to make way for profitable sheep.

0:29:09 > 0:29:12Poverty and hunger stalked the glens

0:29:12 > 0:29:16but many Presbyterian Highlanders saw this disaster

0:29:16 > 0:29:18as an opportunity to start again -

0:29:18 > 0:29:22to build a promised land on the other side of the world.

0:29:22 > 0:29:25There's a certain amount of imagery around the immigration

0:29:25 > 0:29:30of Highlanders that calls on biblical images of Exodus.

0:29:31 > 0:29:33That's not uncommon.

0:29:33 > 0:29:37You know, people who were in captivity

0:29:37 > 0:29:43and suffering under the Highland Clearances who were now reluctantly

0:29:43 > 0:29:47leaving their homeland but they're looking for a new promised land.

0:29:47 > 0:29:52Born in Skye and brought up on Barra, Angus McMillan

0:29:52 > 0:29:55sailed for Australia at the age of 28.

0:29:55 > 0:30:01An austere, religious young man, McMillan did not want to leave Scotland

0:30:01 > 0:30:03but he believed God had a plan for him.

0:30:03 > 0:30:06If Australia was to be his destiny, so be it.

0:30:08 > 0:30:12McMillan arrives in Australia with not much notion

0:30:12 > 0:30:17of what he's going to do but with letters of introduction to men of much more means,

0:30:17 > 0:30:20much more status and probably much more education.

0:30:25 > 0:30:29McMillan found work with Lachlan McAlister - a fellow islander

0:30:29 > 0:30:32and owner of huge tracts of land in New South Wales.

0:30:32 > 0:30:36But in 1839, a drought struck.

0:30:36 > 0:30:39McMillan, the determined and resourceful new man,

0:30:39 > 0:30:43was sent out to find new land to farm.

0:30:45 > 0:30:48McMillan pushed on into the endless bush,

0:30:48 > 0:30:50forcing his horse through forests,

0:30:50 > 0:30:54into gullies, around swamps and up mountain slopes.

0:30:54 > 0:30:59Finally, after weeks in the saddle, McMillan crashed through the trees -

0:30:59 > 0:31:01he was delighted with what he'd found.

0:31:07 > 0:31:10"It put me more in mind of the scenery of Scotland than any other country

0:31:10 > 0:31:13"I had hitherto seen and therefore,

0:31:13 > 0:31:19"I named it at that moment Caledonia Australis - Scotland of the South.

0:31:21 > 0:31:25"It was then I keenly felt I had a noble and glorious task to perform

0:31:25 > 0:31:30"and that I was only an instrument in the hands of the almighty.

0:31:30 > 0:31:33"This was land sufficient to feed all my starving countrymen."

0:31:37 > 0:31:41He's doing the Lord's will. He must be, it's manifest.

0:31:41 > 0:31:43Why else would he be here?

0:31:43 > 0:31:46Why would it be so good for cattle if it wasn't the Lord's will?

0:31:48 > 0:31:50But really, while he's thinking about the Lord's will,

0:31:50 > 0:31:55he also thinking how he, Angus McMillan, can grow fat.

0:31:57 > 0:31:59McMillan returned to Sydney

0:31:59 > 0:32:04and drove 500 of McAlister's cattle into the new territory.

0:32:04 > 0:32:08He claimed a property for himself twice the size of Barra,

0:32:08 > 0:32:10the island where he'd grown up.

0:32:10 > 0:32:15He was soon joined by others as an almost exclusively Gaelic community

0:32:15 > 0:32:17of cattlemen followed his path south.

0:32:18 > 0:32:21One of them was Robert Thompson.

0:32:21 > 0:32:24His great, great grandson Andrew is still there.

0:32:29 > 0:32:32There's about 550 in this mob. Enough to keep busy.

0:32:32 > 0:32:33Not enough to make money.

0:32:36 > 0:32:38Because Macmillan was the main explorer,

0:32:38 > 0:32:41everyone knows everyone in your community

0:32:41 > 0:32:44so he's not going to give first heads up that there's good country

0:32:44 > 0:32:48down here to the Irish, to the Poms, to the Welsh or anyone else.

0:32:48 > 0:32:50It's all going to be, "Right, I'll get on the phone

0:32:50 > 0:32:54"and tell all my Scottish mates this is the promised land."

0:32:55 > 0:32:58"This is all good. There are acres and acres of grass,

0:32:58 > 0:33:01"you're going to be able to make a quid down here."

0:33:02 > 0:33:05Today, Andrew Thompson trades in a global market

0:33:05 > 0:33:07and farming is a tough business.

0:33:07 > 0:33:11But the greatest risk was taken by men like his great,

0:33:11 > 0:33:16great grandfather who followed in McMillan's footsteps 180 years ago.

0:33:17 > 0:33:19To come over those mountains with animals

0:33:19 > 0:33:22and not know what's at the other end... You break a leg up there,

0:33:22 > 0:33:29you got nothing. And to punt your whole life, your family's life

0:33:29 > 0:33:32and all future generations on something like that

0:33:32 > 0:33:36when you could have just sat at home and done nothing, that's fairly amazing.

0:33:36 > 0:33:42It's a real test of character and sign of strength,

0:33:42 > 0:33:43so it's kind of amazing to me.

0:33:46 > 0:33:53By the 1850s, Angus McMillan owned nearly 2,500 cattle, 9,000 sheep

0:33:53 > 0:33:57and had land stretching as far as the eye could see.

0:33:57 > 0:34:02The Presbyterian prophecy of a Gaelic promised land was fulfilled.

0:34:02 > 0:34:05The name Caledonia Australis didn't stick,

0:34:05 > 0:34:09but McMillan was quickly recognised as one of early Australia's

0:34:09 > 0:34:12most important explorers and agriculturalists.

0:34:15 > 0:34:19Among his many positions was protector of the local Aborigines.

0:34:22 > 0:34:26But on closer examination, this picture tells a different story.

0:34:27 > 0:34:30My skin crawls when I see that photograph.

0:34:30 > 0:34:34When I first saw it...

0:34:34 > 0:34:40I felt like vomiting, because it's so plain in the photograph

0:34:40 > 0:34:43that the two Aboriginal men have fear

0:34:43 > 0:34:46and revulsion in their eyes.

0:34:49 > 0:34:53In 1843, Aboriginal warriors ambushed

0:34:53 > 0:34:56and killed a prominent local white man.

0:34:56 > 0:34:59The Aborigines made one terrible mistake when they killed a man

0:34:59 > 0:35:03because he turned out to be the nephew of the number one man,

0:35:03 > 0:35:07Lachlan McAllister, who financed McMillan's trips.

0:35:07 > 0:35:12In response, McMillan formed a posse of stockmen.

0:35:12 > 0:35:14He called them the Highland Brigade.

0:35:16 > 0:35:22Macmillan...got his fellows, the clans, organised

0:35:22 > 0:35:27and...he was of the opinion -

0:35:27 > 0:35:32and militarily, it makes for common sense -

0:35:32 > 0:35:37that you hit early and you hit hard and you solve the problem

0:35:37 > 0:35:42before the soft hearts get a chance to become involved.

0:35:45 > 0:35:49McMillan reminded his men what had happened at Myall Creek.

0:35:49 > 0:35:52Too much loose talk had alerted the authorities.

0:35:52 > 0:35:55The men pledged a pact of silence.

0:35:59 > 0:36:01The covenant held, for a time,

0:36:01 > 0:36:06but the terrible events of that day are no longer shrouded in silence.

0:36:06 > 0:36:10In 1925, an anonymous account appeared in a Melbourne newspaper.

0:36:12 > 0:36:15"The brigade coming up to the blacks camped around the water hole

0:36:15 > 0:36:17"at Warrigal Creek surrounded them

0:36:17 > 0:36:20"and fired into them, killing a great number.

0:36:23 > 0:36:28"Some escaped into the scrub, others jumped into the water hole

0:36:28 > 0:36:31"and as fast as they put their heads up for breath,

0:36:31 > 0:36:35"they were shot until the water was red with blood."

0:36:37 > 0:36:40Estimates of the number of Aborigines killed

0:36:40 > 0:36:43at Warrigal Creek range from 60 to 150.

0:36:47 > 0:36:50In the case of Angus McMillan, he and his Scottish friends seemed to

0:36:50 > 0:36:55have been especially savage in their reprisals.

0:36:55 > 0:36:59He was prepared to do anything to get what he wanted

0:36:59 > 0:37:03and he had no time for Aboriginal people at all.

0:37:06 > 0:37:09He held the Aboriginal people in contempt.

0:37:09 > 0:37:12I think his bible allowed him to do that.

0:37:15 > 0:37:18By the mid 1850s, when Angus McMillan's

0:37:18 > 0:37:22transformation from destitute cattlehand to a wealthy explorer

0:37:22 > 0:37:27was complete, there were barely 100 Aborigines left in all of Gippsland.

0:37:28 > 0:37:31When McMillan arrived, there had been 2,000.

0:37:32 > 0:37:37The grand irony is that a lot of these people who came

0:37:37 > 0:37:44and moved by force, or some other means, the Aboriginal people

0:37:44 > 0:37:48off the land had been themselves moved off.

0:37:48 > 0:37:52So I think that made them quite immune

0:37:52 > 0:37:55to any sentiment about moving the next lot.

0:37:55 > 0:37:59McMillan is the dark side of the Scottish exploration of Australia.

0:37:59 > 0:38:03The thirst for new land was all-consuming

0:38:03 > 0:38:07and even in one of the biggest countries in the world,

0:38:07 > 0:38:10for some Scots there was no room for anyone else.

0:38:14 > 0:38:17But by the mid-19th century, European knowledge of the size

0:38:17 > 0:38:20and nature of Australia was still limited.

0:38:20 > 0:38:23For all their achievements, Australians could not truly

0:38:23 > 0:38:26regard themselves as masters of the continent

0:38:26 > 0:38:28until they knew what lay at its heart.

0:38:36 > 0:38:42In October 1860, a small, thin, bearded man arrived in Adelaide.

0:38:42 > 0:38:47A crowd of people, including newspaper reporters, had gathered to meet him.

0:38:47 > 0:38:49He looked half dead.

0:38:49 > 0:38:53He told them he'd been to the centre of Australia and back.

0:38:53 > 0:38:58Like a man today claiming he'd walked on Mars, his tale defied credibility.

0:39:00 > 0:39:04The national library in Sydney has a tiny leather-bound notebook

0:39:04 > 0:39:07and a series of hand-drawn charts.

0:39:07 > 0:39:09These are the original field journals and maps

0:39:09 > 0:39:12of Australia's greatest inland explorer.

0:39:12 > 0:39:18Obsessive, one would say. Neat in his expeditions.

0:39:19 > 0:39:23In his personal life, I think you'd describe him as chaotic.

0:39:23 > 0:39:24THEY LAUGH

0:39:24 > 0:39:28He certainly wasn't a dandy.

0:39:30 > 0:39:33John McDouall Stuart from Dysart in Fife

0:39:33 > 0:39:36was not only a brilliant explorer -

0:39:36 > 0:39:39he was the epitome of the Australian spirit.

0:39:39 > 0:39:43His battles with this harsh land and with his own personal demons

0:39:43 > 0:39:48combined to create a compelling, flawed, yet heroic figure.

0:39:48 > 0:39:53He was, in the words of one historian, "A very big little man."

0:39:53 > 0:39:55There's lots in his character

0:39:55 > 0:39:58and his personality that appeals to Australians today

0:39:58 > 0:40:03because he was tough and he was successful and he was resourceful.

0:40:03 > 0:40:07He didn't consume a lot of people's efforts.

0:40:07 > 0:40:08He could do it alone,

0:40:08 > 0:40:14a lot of it, and that's sort of the great Australian spirit that we all aspire to.

0:40:16 > 0:40:19Stuart's early prospects were not good.

0:40:19 > 0:40:22Orphaned at the age of ten, he was too short for the military

0:40:22 > 0:40:24and mumbled too much to be a minister.

0:40:25 > 0:40:31When he washed up in Adelaide in 1839, he was only 23 years old.

0:40:31 > 0:40:34What's surprising about Stuart is how quickly

0:40:34 > 0:40:37he adapted to the Australian landscape.

0:40:37 > 0:40:43Within a few years, he was going deep into the fringes of civilisation,

0:40:43 > 0:40:47producing maps for pastoralists who were looking for land.

0:40:47 > 0:40:50He was able to survive in quite arid country, leading just a few

0:40:50 > 0:40:52horses and two or three helpers.

0:40:53 > 0:40:56But after returning from the punishing harshness

0:40:56 > 0:41:01of the outback, Stuart routinely headed straight for the pub.

0:41:01 > 0:41:03He did love a drink, there's no doubt about that.

0:41:03 > 0:41:05So when he got to town, he had a few.

0:41:08 > 0:41:13After five years in the colony, Stuart had no money and no fixed abode.

0:41:13 > 0:41:18But in 1844, he was accepted as part of explorer Charles Sturt's

0:41:18 > 0:41:21expedition into the centre of Australia.

0:41:21 > 0:41:24It was the job that changed his life.

0:41:26 > 0:41:29Sturt was looking for a legendary inland sea believed to be

0:41:29 > 0:41:31in the centre of the continent.

0:41:33 > 0:41:36All societies had their dreams of the paradise,

0:41:36 > 0:41:42and in Australia, that dream was of an inland sea.

0:41:42 > 0:41:45That is that the rivers flowing from the east

0:41:45 > 0:41:48and the west must go somewhere,

0:41:48 > 0:41:52because navigators had never found an Amazon or a Nile coming out

0:41:52 > 0:41:57into the ocean. Therefore, there must be a huge pond in the middle.

0:41:57 > 0:42:01This was enhanced by indigenous people

0:42:01 > 0:42:05relating stories of a watery paradise

0:42:05 > 0:42:10surrounded by flocks of kangaroos and emus and a place where

0:42:10 > 0:42:14there were no white men but there was lots of food and birds to eat.

0:42:16 > 0:42:19It doesn't exist and it never did.

0:42:29 > 0:42:31Sturt found no inland sea.

0:42:31 > 0:42:36Instead, his expedition encountered the full harshness of the Australian climate

0:42:36 > 0:42:40and the further he went, the drier and more brutal it became.

0:42:41 > 0:42:43Sturt wrote in his journal that,

0:42:43 > 0:42:46"Nothing can exceed the dreadful nature

0:42:46 > 0:42:48"of the country we have entered."

0:42:48 > 0:42:52The first thing is the physical hardship. In patches,

0:42:52 > 0:42:56the scrub can be really tough and impenetrable, so that means the horses

0:42:56 > 0:42:59don't go through it easily, so you've got to force them or get off them

0:42:59 > 0:43:02and lead them and that can be really hard. But that's almost the easiest.

0:43:02 > 0:43:05What's harder is the lack of water and

0:43:05 > 0:43:08if you haven't got a drink from sun up to sun down, it's kind of tough.

0:43:08 > 0:43:11Sturt's expedition was a failure

0:43:11 > 0:43:15and he brought back to Adelaide the appalling prospect

0:43:15 > 0:43:19that the interior of the country was one gigantic desert.

0:43:20 > 0:43:24But for John McDouall Stuart, the experience was a formative one.

0:43:24 > 0:43:28He had come face to face with the worst the outback had to offer

0:43:28 > 0:43:32and survived, and he learned some valuable lessons

0:43:32 > 0:43:34about how to navigate the interior.

0:43:35 > 0:43:39What Stuart probably learns from Sturt is that there might be

0:43:39 > 0:43:41another way to do it.

0:43:41 > 0:43:45You don't have to take oxen and boats and water wagons and travel

0:43:45 > 0:43:49quite as well provisioned and you could move more quickly, perhaps.

0:43:49 > 0:43:52Stuart devised a new way of travelling,

0:43:52 > 0:43:55one specifically adapted to the outback.

0:43:55 > 0:43:59The way he did it was he'd get to a landmark

0:43:59 > 0:44:03and he'd look ahead for water and a route,

0:44:03 > 0:44:05so he'd use his telescope

0:44:05 > 0:44:08and probably his binoculars to pick a point,

0:44:08 > 0:44:10and you head straight for it.

0:44:10 > 0:44:12Now, you can't do that with wagons all the time,

0:44:12 > 0:44:15and flocks of sheep and oxen and all the rest of it.

0:44:15 > 0:44:17It's too long and it's too slow.

0:44:17 > 0:44:19So he got this new pattern of travel from point to point,

0:44:19 > 0:44:22and it's very mobile and very quick.

0:44:22 > 0:44:27Stuart's journal is all about finding water -

0:44:27 > 0:44:32if he couldn't find water, he was doomed.

0:44:32 > 0:44:34He was accomplished at it.

0:44:34 > 0:44:36He would climb the highest mountain

0:44:36 > 0:44:40and look perhaps for a dip in the land and head that way.

0:44:40 > 0:44:44He knew the birds that would assemble at evening near water

0:44:44 > 0:44:46such as finches and pigeons.

0:44:46 > 0:44:53He would dig in the bed of dry rivers and after a metre or two down

0:44:53 > 0:44:56he normally found something to drink there.

0:44:56 > 0:44:59And Stuart was canny enough to pick the brains of the people

0:44:59 > 0:45:03who had long ago worked out how to live in this land.

0:45:03 > 0:45:06Water is the most precious resource to us.

0:45:06 > 0:45:10Those first guys that came to us, our people seen them perishing

0:45:10 > 0:45:14and really struggling and thought, like, "Poor bugger,

0:45:14 > 0:45:17"maybe we should give them a hand". So we did.

0:45:19 > 0:45:21Stuart's mastery of the outback

0:45:21 > 0:45:25alerted Adelaide businessman James Chambers.

0:45:25 > 0:45:29He wanted to expand his cattle empire beyond the frontier.

0:45:29 > 0:45:36Between 1858 and 1859, Stuart set out on a series of ambitious expeditions,

0:45:36 > 0:45:38sponsored by Chambers.

0:45:38 > 0:45:41Each journey took him further into the interior

0:45:41 > 0:45:43than any other European before him.

0:45:43 > 0:45:46Stuart was mapping a pristine landscape

0:45:46 > 0:45:48for James Chambers' cattle.

0:45:48 > 0:45:53His success changed forever this part of Australia.

0:45:53 > 0:45:57The next lot of people that came back, there was a little bit more,

0:45:57 > 0:46:00so there had to be a little bit more water here.

0:46:00 > 0:46:05Then a mob after that came back with a cow and a horse,

0:46:05 > 0:46:11possibly a couple of sheep, so there was more water being used.

0:46:11 > 0:46:15It got to the point where sometimes there was not even enough for us.

0:46:15 > 0:46:20And Stuart had grander ambitions than just seeking out good agricultural land.

0:46:21 > 0:46:24There's no doubt that Stuart saw himself on a quest

0:46:24 > 0:46:30and that is to be the first European to cross the Australian continent from south to north.

0:46:33 > 0:46:38In 1860, Stuart set out for a fourth time,

0:46:38 > 0:46:40heading for the centre of Australia.

0:46:40 > 0:46:44His party consisted of three people including himself.

0:46:44 > 0:46:46Under provisioned, under equipped,

0:46:46 > 0:46:50under resourced in terms of horse flesh, man power.

0:46:52 > 0:46:54Travelling via springs and water holes

0:46:54 > 0:46:57he'd identified on his previous expeditions,

0:46:57 > 0:47:00Stuart and his two companions made their way north.

0:47:02 > 0:47:05He was a hard taskmaster.

0:47:05 > 0:47:11He set by example, and if they had to ride a long distance,

0:47:11 > 0:47:15say 20 miles in a day, that would be what he did,

0:47:15 > 0:47:16with steely determination,

0:47:16 > 0:47:19and you'd better keep up because you'd be left behind.

0:47:19 > 0:47:23Every day, pretty much, they're crossing a new frontier

0:47:23 > 0:47:25of toughness, and it might be environment,

0:47:25 > 0:47:29and it might be lack of water, and then finally it's lack of food.

0:47:29 > 0:47:32He keeps on halving his rations, so he gets a bit further north

0:47:32 > 0:47:36and, "Oh, I'm not going to make it back, we'll halve them again."

0:47:36 > 0:47:39It was really tough - beyond any modern comprehension of tough.

0:47:39 > 0:47:41Just way beyond.

0:47:46 > 0:47:50Six weeks after their departure, Stuart left his tent

0:47:50 > 0:47:54and took his daily readings of the sun to calculate their position.

0:47:55 > 0:47:58"Today I find from my observations of the sun -

0:47:58 > 0:48:03"111 degrees, zero minutes 30 seconds -

0:48:03 > 0:48:07"that I am now camped in the centre of Australia."

0:48:10 > 0:48:15Ascending the nearest peak, Stuart marked the momentous moment.

0:48:15 > 0:48:18"I built a large cone of stones, in the centre of which

0:48:18 > 0:48:22"I placed a pole with a British flag nailed to it,

0:48:22 > 0:48:24"then gave three hearty cheers."

0:48:26 > 0:48:28Stuart decided to push north

0:48:28 > 0:48:34to complete the crossing of the continent, but as the land beneath his feet dried up, doubt crept in.

0:48:35 > 0:48:39"We are expecting every moment to come upon a gum creek,

0:48:39 > 0:48:41"but hope is disappointed.

0:48:41 > 0:48:46"How far this country may continue is impossible to tell.

0:48:46 > 0:48:51"It is very alluring, and apt to lead the traveller into serious mistakes.

0:48:51 > 0:48:53"I wish I had turned back earlier,

0:48:53 > 0:48:57"but I am almost afraid I have allowed myself to come too far."

0:48:58 > 0:49:02As Stuart inched towards the north coast, the landscape changed,

0:49:02 > 0:49:05and so did the native people he encountered.

0:49:05 > 0:49:07"I heard the voice of a native.

0:49:07 > 0:49:10"He made the sign that natives generally do

0:49:10 > 0:49:14"if wanting something to eat, and pointed towards me.

0:49:14 > 0:49:17"Whether he meant to ask if I was hungry,

0:49:17 > 0:49:22"or to suggest that I should make a very good supper for him, I do not know."

0:49:22 > 0:49:27The days passed, and Stuart and his men realised they were being followed.

0:49:27 > 0:49:30At night, fires lit the horizon.

0:49:30 > 0:49:34When those people were observing those new explorers,

0:49:34 > 0:49:39it was a way to signify that you're not alone and you're being watched,

0:49:39 > 0:49:43and that's the same thing what happens as an Aboriginal person

0:49:43 > 0:49:46at that same time going into another's area.

0:49:46 > 0:49:50It's also signifying danger.

0:49:50 > 0:49:52"Suddenly, from behind some scrub,

0:49:52 > 0:49:55"upstarted three, tall, powerful fellows,

0:49:55 > 0:49:59"fully armed, having a number of boomerangs, waddies and spears.

0:49:59 > 0:50:03"In a few minutes, their numbers had increased to upward of 30.

0:50:03 > 0:50:08"We received a shower of boomerangs accompanied by a fearful yell.

0:50:08 > 0:50:10"They then set fire to the grass."

0:50:12 > 0:50:15Stuart named the place of the skirmish Attack Creek.

0:50:15 > 0:50:18Why the attack occurred on this particular location

0:50:18 > 0:50:21is not quite clear.

0:50:21 > 0:50:25It could well be that it was a dispute about water,

0:50:25 > 0:50:30because Stuart had been taking his number of horses from water hole

0:50:30 > 0:50:33to water hole and emptying them,

0:50:33 > 0:50:38and it's also extremely likely that he had crossed sacred ground.

0:50:38 > 0:50:41The attack shook Stuart and his men. Their rations were running low.

0:50:41 > 0:50:44They were experiencing the first signs of scurvy,

0:50:44 > 0:50:46and, with no sign of rain,

0:50:46 > 0:50:49they risked death should they continue into the unknown.

0:50:49 > 0:50:52Reluctantly, Stuart decided to head for home.

0:50:52 > 0:50:56"It would be madness and folly to attempt more.

0:50:56 > 0:50:58"If my own life were the only sacrifice,

0:50:58 > 0:51:01"I would willingly risk it to accomplish my purpose,

0:51:01 > 0:51:04"but it seems I am destined to be disappointed."

0:51:06 > 0:51:10And so he says that, "Because of my manpower, my lack of supplies,

0:51:10 > 0:51:12"because we're so far from anywhere

0:51:12 > 0:51:16"and because of the Aboriginal situation, I'm going to retreat."

0:51:17 > 0:51:20Stuart returned to Adelaide a hero.

0:51:21 > 0:51:23It's internationally hugely important,

0:51:23 > 0:51:28because, at that time, geography and travels

0:51:28 > 0:51:31were very much the popular press of the day

0:51:31 > 0:51:35and the great unknown was what's in the centre of Australia.

0:51:38 > 0:51:43Today, tourists can complete the journey from Adelaide to the centre in a matter of hours.

0:51:43 > 0:51:48The railway tracks run close to the route originally mapped by Stuart.

0:51:53 > 0:51:58But Stuart, so confident in the outback, did not enjoy his new fame.

0:51:58 > 0:52:02He retreated to Adelaide's pubs and, at a dinner given in his honour,

0:52:02 > 0:52:06was so nervous that someone else had to deliver his speech.

0:52:07 > 0:52:12He was an isolate. He preferred his own company,

0:52:12 > 0:52:16the isolation of the Australian bush.

0:52:16 > 0:52:20He preferred being in a bush tavern drinking

0:52:20 > 0:52:23than high society in Adelaide.

0:52:25 > 0:52:29In response to Stuart's success, the state of Victoria decided to send an expedition north

0:52:29 > 0:52:33to complete the crossing of the continent -

0:52:33 > 0:52:36the last great prize of Australian exploration.

0:52:36 > 0:52:40The Victorian exploring exhibition is completely different

0:52:40 > 0:52:43because it's funded by a very wealthy colony, Victoria,

0:52:43 > 0:52:46and they took everything, including the kitchen sink

0:52:46 > 0:52:49and the dining room table, and they were very well equipped -

0:52:49 > 0:52:53perhaps the best equipped expedition in Australia ever.

0:52:53 > 0:52:58The expedition was led by Irish policeman Robert O'Hara Burke.

0:52:59 > 0:53:03It consisted of 27 camels, two dozen horses,

0:53:03 > 0:53:08six wagons carrying food for two years, and six tonnes of firewood.

0:53:08 > 0:53:13The Burke expedition is a case study in how not to do things.

0:53:13 > 0:53:17They had tables, they had desks, they had huge amounts of stuff,

0:53:17 > 0:53:20most of which never made it out of Victoria,

0:53:20 > 0:53:24including the lime juice, which would have been quite good,

0:53:24 > 0:53:27because scurvy in the end was what undid the whole expedition.

0:53:30 > 0:53:34Burke is a joke. He was useless in the bush.

0:53:34 > 0:53:36He couldn't fend for himself,

0:53:36 > 0:53:40he couldn't eat, and when Aboriginal people gave him food

0:53:40 > 0:53:43and water, he shot over their head because he was afraid of them.

0:53:45 > 0:53:49Burke's expedition never made it across the continent.

0:53:49 > 0:53:53Instead, he vanished into the interior and was never seen alive again.

0:53:58 > 0:54:00Despite Burke's death,

0:54:00 > 0:54:03the goal of crossing Australia was closer than ever.

0:54:03 > 0:54:07Stuart resolved to make one last attempt to cross the continent.

0:54:09 > 0:54:14And by now, the Australian interior was John McDouall Stuart's true home.

0:54:14 > 0:54:18He understood its dangers. He embraced its silence.

0:54:18 > 0:54:22He knew its landmarks - he had discovered and named many of them.

0:54:29 > 0:54:32Finally, after seven months of trekking

0:54:32 > 0:54:38and a lifetime of trying, the sound of the sea confirmed his triumph.

0:54:38 > 0:54:42"I came upon a broad valley covered in long grass.

0:54:42 > 0:54:45"From this, I can hear the wash of the sea."

0:54:46 > 0:54:49"I advanced a few yards onto the beach, and was gratified

0:54:49 > 0:54:54"and delighted to behold... the ocean."

0:54:56 > 0:55:00Stuart turned back towards Adelaide almost immediately,

0:55:00 > 0:55:04however, within days, his iron will and indomitable constitution began to fade.

0:55:04 > 0:55:09Ulcers blistered his mouth. Sharp shooting pains wracked his chest.

0:55:09 > 0:55:13His eyes, blasted by the glare of the desert sun for so many years,

0:55:13 > 0:55:15blurred and faded.

0:55:16 > 0:55:21"I am in the grasp of death - a cold clammy perspiration

0:55:21 > 0:55:25"with a tremulous motion creeping over my body during the night.

0:55:25 > 0:55:29"Everything near me has the smell of decaying mortality.

0:55:29 > 0:55:34"My limbs so weak and painful that I am obliged to be carried about.

0:55:34 > 0:55:38"My body reduced to that of a living skeleton.

0:55:38 > 0:55:44"My strength an infantile weakness. A sad wreck of my former days."

0:55:45 > 0:55:49At the end of his sixth expedition,

0:55:49 > 0:55:53Stuart was really a mental and physical wreck.

0:55:53 > 0:55:57He had to be carried back all the way

0:55:57 > 0:55:59from the northern part of Australia to Adelaide.

0:55:59 > 0:56:03It took Stuart six months to reach Adelaide.

0:56:03 > 0:56:07His greatest achievement had nearly killed him.

0:56:07 > 0:56:10But his crossing of the continent has had a profound legacy.

0:56:12 > 0:56:15The way he went is the way we still go.

0:56:15 > 0:56:19In other words, the route he used became the stepping stone

0:56:19 > 0:56:21for all the European development.

0:56:21 > 0:56:25And Stuart's notebooks provided the route map for the telegraph line

0:56:25 > 0:56:27that linked Australia to the rest of the world.

0:56:32 > 0:56:36But whilst John McDouall Stuart may have conquered Australia,

0:56:36 > 0:56:40Australia had perhaps also conquered him.

0:56:41 > 0:56:44He had his moment of fame, he was celebrated,

0:56:44 > 0:56:48but once in the town he began to drink heavily.

0:56:48 > 0:56:53It's almost as if he'd achieved what he wanted to out of life

0:56:53 > 0:56:56and had nothing to replace it.

0:56:56 > 0:57:00When he was aged 50, he died,

0:57:00 > 0:57:04and only seven people attended his funeral.

0:57:04 > 0:57:06And most of those were strangers

0:57:06 > 0:57:10who had come along to pay their respects to this great man.

0:57:22 > 0:57:25Modern Australia has many fathers.

0:57:25 > 0:57:28People from every corner of the globe

0:57:28 > 0:57:31have made this country what it is today,

0:57:31 > 0:57:35but the mark of Scottish explorers on Australia has been profound.

0:57:42 > 0:57:45Resourceful, tough, successful.

0:57:45 > 0:57:48They're forming this Australian character.

0:57:50 > 0:57:53It didn't matter how you were born or what you were,

0:57:53 > 0:57:56these Scottish travellers, explorers,

0:57:56 > 0:58:00simply went out and got on with it and did what they wanted to do

0:58:00 > 0:58:02because they wanted to get on in life.

0:58:02 > 0:58:05And in opening this country to European eyes,

0:58:05 > 0:58:09Scottish explorers have helped make Australia what it is today.

0:58:12 > 0:58:16Because of where they came from in Scotland being a fairly hard

0:58:16 > 0:58:19country itself, they were probably set up better to handle it

0:58:19 > 0:58:22than a lot of other nations that came here,

0:58:22 > 0:58:24because Scotland's a tough bit of dirt, you know,

0:58:24 > 0:58:27and Australia's a tough bit of dirt.

0:58:47 > 0:58:51Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:51 > 0:58:54Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk